[neonixie-l] Re: here we go again, picaxe and 74141 problem.
The only problem with that is, that the pin in question ( Picaxe pin 4) is physical pin 3. I'm still pursuing this as an answer in the Picaxe manuals. Thanks for a direction to look! Shane On Oct 23, 8:21 pm, "Bill van Dijk" wrote: > Shane, > > I don't know the Picaxe well, but the regular PIC's pin 4 on the port A are > open collector. They will sink, but not go high unless you use an external > pull-up resistor to VDD. Check your Picaxe manual for this. > > Cheers, BILL > > _ > > From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixi...@googlegroups.com] On > Behalf Of Shane Ellis > Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 8:25 PM > To: neonixie-l > Subject: [neonixie-l] here we go again, picaxe and 74141 problem. > > I'm using a Picaxe 08M, and an IN-14 tube, a standard 74141 driver, > and a Tayloredge power supply. I had a similar problem some months > back, and the fix I used last time, isn't cutting it this go round. > When pin 4 goes high (output) both the Zero, and Nine light up at the > same time. I know my code is good, and all my grounds are good, the > legs of the HVPS, the 74141, and the Picaxe are all grounded by way of > capacitor. I checked all voltages, all measure about 4.95V, and the > current sits at 1.30mA in low state and 0V when in high state. All > other numbers, 1-8, work perfectly, but the two digits that require > pin 4, don't work properly. Any suggestions? Something I > overlooked? Dumb mistake I made? > > Thanks > Shane > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. > > _ > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG -www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1144 / Virus Database: 422/3214 - Release Date: 10/23/10 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
RE: [neonixie-l] here we go again, picaxe and 74141 problem.
Shane, I don't know the Picaxe well, but the regular PIC's pin 4 on the port A are open collector. They will sink, but not go high unless you use an external pull-up resistor to VDD. Check your Picaxe manual for this. Cheers, BILL _ From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixi...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Shane Ellis Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 8:25 PM To: neonixie-l Subject: [neonixie-l] here we go again, picaxe and 74141 problem. I'm using a Picaxe 08M, and an IN-14 tube, a standard 74141 driver, and a Tayloredge power supply. I had a similar problem some months back, and the fix I used last time, isn't cutting it this go round. When pin 4 goes high (output) both the Zero, and Nine light up at the same time. I know my code is good, and all my grounds are good, the legs of the HVPS, the 74141, and the Picaxe are all grounded by way of capacitor. I checked all voltages, all measure about 4.95V, and the current sits at 1.30mA in low state and 0V when in high state. All other numbers, 1-8, work perfectly, but the two digits that require pin 4, don't work properly. Any suggestions? Something I overlooked? Dumb mistake I made? Thanks Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1144 / Virus Database: 422/3214 - Release Date: 10/23/10 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Advice on powering Nixie clock
Hey Carl, I bought one of those gizmoz some time ago and use it for proto typing hardware/software on a breadboard. Works great for that. Easy to reconfigure and toss on the self when not needed. Good luck. Dennis On 23 Oct, 10:11, Splicker wrote: > Thanks for all the advice guys! I love this community loads already! > It's very refreshing to see people that are willing to help newbies. > Okay I've bought one and I'm looking at clocks and voltage supplies to > buy right now. > May my frustrating yet ultimately rewarding Nixie adventure begin! > > Carl > > On Oct 21, 11:11 pm, Splicker wrote: > > > Hi everybody! > > > I'm quite new to Nixie clocks and I wanted to get a kit to start my > > first project. > > > I found this one from the > > Ukraine:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190451347040&ssPag... > > > It seems to be a genuine old computer part that Nixie tubes were used > > for back in the day. > > > I want to buy it but I have absolutely no idea how to power it with > > the 6 x 32 pin bits at the back, the seller doesn't either! > > > Does anybody know how to do it? > > > Thanks! Hope you can help! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] here we go again, picaxe and 74141 problem.
I'm using a Picaxe 08M, and an IN-14 tube, a standard 74141 driver, and a Tayloredge power supply. I had a similar problem some months back, and the fix I used last time, isn't cutting it this go round. When pin 4 goes high (output) both the Zero, and Nine light up at the same time. I know my code is good, and all my grounds are good, the legs of the HVPS, the 74141, and the Picaxe are all grounded by way of capacitor. I checked all voltages, all measure about 4.95V, and the current sits at 1.30mA in low state and 0V when in high state. All other numbers, 1-8, work perfectly, but the two digits that require pin 4, don't work properly. Any suggestions? Something I overlooked? Dumb mistake I made? Thanks Shane -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Why would you NOT multiplex
Steve, you will find vociferous supporters of both multiplexed and non- multiplexed designs! I have built a number of BOTH, so will summarise my view: >Multiplexed often means less or simpler hardware (the same driver electronics >serving more than one tube). >You can often use smaller PIC chips (needs fewer pins if multiplexed) >But Multiplexed also then means more complex software! (if using a PIC >processor or similar) >Probably not worth the EXTRA electronics of a hardware multiplexed design >Multiplexing means you can also more easily introduce effects such as display >dimming and even fading >You need to scan the whole display at least 70 times per second, to avoid >flicker. Talk of several hundred times a second leaves me baffled. Why bother? >Some nixie tubes will "sing" gently under multiplexed drive. You can "tune >out" some of this by careful selection of your multiplex rate >For the same average current, I judge direct-driven displays to be slightly >brighter >In six-tube clocks, you will see 2x, 3x and 6x multiplexed design where three, >two or one nixie tube(s) (respectively) are driven at any one time. >Personally, I think the 6x design is asking a bit much of the nixie tube - to >get reasonable brightness, you have to hit it with pretty high peak currents. >I have no opinion on the relative life expectancy of the nixie tubes, >Multiplex Vs Direct driven, provided the manufacturer's spec is adhered to. >Ask me in another ten years, and I'll reaffirm or update that view! Looking at the circuit you reference - a 4x (one of four design) is fairly standard BUT - What's that '555 doing in there? REDUNDANT HARDWARE! Get your processor PWM to drive a FET with some voltage feedback, to create the HT. Use the capabilities of your processor to the full, to minimise the hardware, for a more elegant solution - always. Given your starting processor (I am not too familiar with the Aduino range), you could probably skip the '595 shift registers and drive the '141 BCD decoders directly from the processor, if going down the multiplex route. Why not breadboard BOTH and see what you think? On Oct 17, 1:06 am, Steve wrote: > Dear group, > > I'm very new to electronics and designing my first clock circuit now > (four digits) which is composed around an Arduino driving two shift > registers (74HC595) which are driving four 74141's that drive the > nixies. I basically copied the designs available on ogilumen.com if > you are at all familiar with them. It works nicely on my breadbord. > > From reading these groups I've stumbled upon this multiplexed design: > > http://i46.tinypic.com/2saghhe.jpg > > I don't need to do any of the fancy stuff with the special clock chip, > but what I am wondering is why a multiplexed design should NOT be my > first starting point? > > I can get rid of the shift registers completely, cut down to only one > Arduino driven 74141 and all I need to substitute are anode > transistors again triggered by the Arduino. > > I would love to hear the advice of the group. > > The tubes I am using are IN-8's where have "pulsed" specifications, so > I'm assuming they are designed to be multiplexed. > > Thank you in advance. It is very much appreciated. > > Steve > > P.S. The original multiplex post > was:http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l/browse_thread/thread/32dad1... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: full archive of the old yahoo group, anybody?
It still may not necessarily be a bad idea to get these archives mirrored out to private members of the group, especially if most of the work is already completed. -Adam On Sat, Oct 23, 2010 at 6:21 AM, Nick wrote: > On Oct 23, 10:57 am, Marcin Adamski > wrote: > > Sorry for bringing it back from the past. ;) > > > > I have a complete mbox of the old yahoo neonixie-l (or at lest I believe > > so). If anybody wants it, it may be downloaded from here: > https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B0bo1325G8EQNTgyOGFmY2EtMjdjNC00MWM1... > > I heard that there were posts even before the yahoo group. Does anybody > > has them? Could we add them to the archive? > > They cannot be added to the Google Groups archive (so Google told me) > which is why I set up the neonixie-l mail-archive repository as well. > Thanks for your mbox - I'll compare it with the others I have. > > The mail-archive folk have told me that I can load up an mbox archive > into the neonixie-l mirror there and they know about Yahoo group > formats - they explicitly look for certain thread info. > > > If the gods allow I will soon have an archive of all the files and > > photos as well. > > As I mentioned before - the ownership of the Yahoo group has now > changed and lies within active members of this new group, i.e. we have > complete control over the archives as a community ourselves and the > files etc. will not be going anywhere soon! The previous owner of the > Yahoo group is no longer involved. > > Cheers > > Nick > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Advice on powering Nixie clock
Thanks for all the advice guys! I love this community loads already! It's very refreshing to see people that are willing to help newbies. Okay I've bought one and I'm looking at clocks and voltage supplies to buy right now. May my frustrating yet ultimately rewarding Nixie adventure begin! Carl On Oct 21, 11:11 pm, Splicker wrote: > Hi everybody! > > I'm quite new to Nixie clocks and I wanted to get a kit to start my > first project. > > I found this one from the > Ukraine:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190451347040&ssPag... > > It seems to be a genuine old computer part that Nixie tubes were used > for back in the day. > > I want to buy it but I have absolutely no idea how to power it with > the 6 x 32 pin bits at the back, the seller doesn't either! > > Does anybody know how to do it? > > Thanks! Hope you can help! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: full archive of the old yahoo group, anybody?
On Oct 23, 10:57 am, Marcin Adamski wrote: > Sorry for bringing it back from the past. ;) > > I have a complete mbox of the old yahoo neonixie-l (or at lest I believe > so). If anybody wants it, it may be downloaded from > here:https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B0bo1325G8EQNTgyOGFmY2EtMjdjNC00MWM1... > I heard that there were posts even before the yahoo group. Does anybody > has them? Could we add them to the archive? They cannot be added to the Google Groups archive (so Google told me) which is why I set up the neonixie-l mail-archive repository as well. Thanks for your mbox - I'll compare it with the others I have. The mail-archive folk have told me that I can load up an mbox archive into the neonixie-l mirror there and they know about Yahoo group formats - they explicitly look for certain thread info. > If the gods allow I will soon have an archive of all the files and > photos as well. As I mentioned before - the ownership of the Yahoo group has now changed and lies within active members of this new group, i.e. we have complete control over the archives as a community ourselves and the files etc. will not be going anywhere soon! The previous owner of the Yahoo group is no longer involved. Cheers Nick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] full archive of the old yahoo group, anybody?
Sorry for bringing it back from the past. ;) I have a complete mbox of the old yahoo neonixie-l (or at lest I believe so). If anybody wants it, it may be downloaded from here: https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B0bo1325G8EQNTgyOGFmY2EtMjdjNC00MWM1LTg0ZDMtYTNhYzI4YmE3MTIz&hl=en&authkey=CP3uzI4J It is a ZIP archive. You will need to unpack it first. I had no problems viewing it in Thunderbird. Simply save this file in your Thunderbird profile 'Local Folders' folder, restart Thunderbird and it should appear under the Local Folders. The other email clients may require to convert it first. I anybody bothers to download it and have a look *please* let me know if the are any errors or omissions. Of course it would be nice to have this historic mbox uploaded into our new google group. But I doubt it's possible. But it should be possible to upload it to our group archive at http://www.mail-archive.com I have totally no experience with different flavors of mbox formats and mail-archive requirements. But I can help with conversion if the current format is unsuitable. I heard that there were posts even before the yahoo group. Does anybody has them? Could we add them to the archive? If the gods allow I will soon have an archive of all the files and photos as well. Cheers, Marcin -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: Homebrew Panaplex Display
Quite fascinating! But not really the kind of thing youz could really "use", since it requires 30kV ionisation for the O2 and a vacuum pump system ;-) If it was filled with some neon and argon, and sealed properly (that is the critical point I'd say) that would be VERY cool. Jens On 22 Okt., 23:52, mjrippe wrote: > In a jelly jar no less! > > http://imajeenyus.com/vacuum/20100814_panaplex/index.shtml -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
