[neonixie-l] NZ designed clock
I don't know if anyone is interested or this treads on anyone elses toes but I thought I'd bring it to the attention of the group. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Electronics-photography/Other-electronics/Other/auction-381234183.htm Steve -- Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV G8KVD The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once. - Einstein -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] NZ designed clock
Maybe the copies are that bad looking, since no actual pictures are shown. i would guess it's really hard to design a PCB like that, it must have taken ages for the original designer. It could be a scammer too, you send money and never recieve a clock // Per. On 08/06/2011, at 12.45, Wayne de Geere III wrote: I notice the eBay cloner who ripped the NZ clock designer off can't even be bothered to make new photos. how crass. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: NZ designed clock
So which one is the rip-off, the NZ clock or the Chinese clock? On Jun 8, 5:35 am, Steve Rooke sar10...@gmail.com wrote: I don't know if anyone is interested or this treads on anyone elses toes but I thought I'd bring it to the attention of the group. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Electronics-photography/Other-electronics/Ot... Steve -- Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV G8KVD The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once. - Einstein -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: NZ designed clock
I especially liked his bullet list, and #4 in particular (copied below for amusement). He obviously has a bit of experience in that dept. 4. Please DO NOT try to clone the whole unit: - The manifold tracks will kill you : - ). - MCU encoded, which means although you can clone the board, you can't copy or fix the program in the MCU and the worst thing is, with out the code, the remote won't work, you can't set the time and the whole thing just won't work. @Yan, if you're reading the thread, my sincere condolences. Your idea of the artistic trace layout was novel. So novel, that it was quickly cloned. I remember from some years back that Frank Bemelman (franktechniek.nl) had his PIC program copied in an early clock design. and was being sold by someone in HK. It's been so long that I don't remember a lot about the details. I suppose that might be another one to add to Brian's douchebag gallery. Regards, Jeff On Jun 8, 3:45 am, Wayne de Geere III wa...@degeere.com wrote: I notice the eBay cloner who ripped the NZ clock designer off can't even be bothered to make new photos. how crass. On 2011 Jun 08, at 03:35 , Steve Rooke wrote: I don't know if anyone is interested or this treads on anyone elses toes but I thought I'd bring it to the attention of the group. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Electronics-photography/Other-electronics/Ot... Steve -- Steve Rooke - ZL3TUV G8KVD The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once. - Einstein -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: NZ designed clock
Just added another seller to the counterfeit list. :-/ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Best Mounting options for Nixies?
Hi Everybody, I'm just about ready to proto up my nixie hardware, and I'm planning ahead for the PCBs. I'm wondering what the best option is for getting from the PCB to the tube. Using vintage sockets doesn't look so hot (the mechanicals suck), and I don't want to endanger my tubes by soldering to the pins. Other discussions I've seen here implied that you have to avoid mechanical stresses as well. What's worked for other people? - Robert -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/Zm1fSFNUZUlZc01K. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Best Mounting options for Nixies?
On 6/8/11 10:28 AM, Robert Sexton wrote: Hi Everybody, I'm just about ready to proto up my nixie hardware, and I'm planning ahead for the PCBs. I'm wondering what the best option is for getting from the PCB to the tube. Using vintage sockets doesn't look so hot (the mechanicals suck), and I don't want to endanger my tubes by soldering to the pins. Other discussions I've seen here implied that you have to avoid mechanical stresses as well. What's worked for other people? - Robert Robert, You didn't mention what type of tube you're using. The best socket for any tube with stiff pins is the original socket made in days of yore. The contacts in these sockets are floating to accommodate the pins' position variability without applying stress to the glass-to-metal seals. I once made a clock that used the original point-to-point-wiring sockets in a PC board, by cutting off all the wiring rings at a 45 degree angle so that only one side of the ring went through the board. This allowed me to use smaller holes in the board, making layout and assembly easier. The smaller individual socket pins may be installed in the board, but choose one that's big enough to avoid putting stress on the pins. That is, choose a socket pin sized so that the tube pin is near the small end of the socket's rated diameter range. You'd be sad if your tubes broke due to insertion stress. -- David Forbes, Tucson AZ -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Best Mounting options for Nixies?
On 8 Jun 2011, at 18:28, Robert Sexton wrote: I'm wondering what the best option is for getting from the PCB to the tube... What's worked for other people? 1] Use wire ended nixie tubes and solder on regardless. No problem, job done. Put the Nixies on tubular pedestals to preserve some lead length and shove an LED underneath, because you can. 2] Use female receptacles from a cracked open D socket, or a D socket that uses separate socket inserts - just buy the inserts if you can, they tend to come joined onto a strip of metal. Not wholly satisfactory, the metal can relax with time, making less intimate contact than was originally the case. 3] Use gold plated pins of a suitable size, often called 'Mouser' pins around these parts, but actually made by Harwin or other company. 5] Look at some of the sellers on ebay who sell sets of pins - Kosbo sells some gold pins that are different to the Mouser/Harwin jobbies and I personally like 'em. 4] Some have found that tightly wrapping a spiral of wire around the pin, thus forming a kind of spring, has allowed them to solder the other end to the board. I have not personally gone down this route, so I cannot vouch for it. 5] Some tubes, such as some Philips tubes, are on a .1 pitch - standard socket strips can be cut up in a 2-4-4-2 configuration and the tube pins fit just fine and will even fit 'Veroboard' or similar perforated PCB material. I have had some success with using 'Polymorph' to replicate sockets. I use a drill press to drill the socket pattern, such that the socket pins will be a loose-ish but not too sloppy fit (remember the bit about strain and stress on the tubes). I then put pins into the drilled holes - the Chinese are selling 20 drill bits for silly cheap prices so I use those, smooth end first. I then put something with a suitable sized hole around the assembly, such as an adhesive tape roll, and squidge 'Polymorph' into the hole and around the pins. Once set, in a minute or so, pull the pins out and insert your connector pins instead. Assuming you left enough room and didn't make your socket too deep, you can solder flying leads onto the back on the pins and wire it up. I am currently trying out some socket pins which will solder directly onto my PCB after the 'Polymorph' treatment. John S -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Best Mounting options for Nixies?
There seem to be two sorts of pins out there - The Harman H34s, and the DB -Style pins. I've got some of the Kosbo pins and they look like they'll work well for my IN-4s, and IN-12s, but I don't know if they will fit any future tubes I may find The I've seen ebay ads for the Harman H34 pins, but the design of those looks like it lacks good strain relief, as it transfers the forces directly between the PCB and the tube. It looks like with those pins, I'd have to rely upon the PCB hole pattern to exactly match the tube, perhaps moreso than tube-tube variation would allow. The DB-style pins look pretty good to me for the smaller nixie pins, as they have a leaf-spring spring action and look to flexible to create torques on the pins. I don't know if I can get these to fit other tubes. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/ZXNUVThSaEpjRUFK. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: IN-18 resurrection
On Jun 7, 6:52 pm, Nicholas Stock nickst...@gmail.com wrote: Exactly the same thing happened to me too Waynereplacing a tube in my Nixichron and pop, off came the glass nipple on the base of the IN-18the holes in the PCB aren't that forgiving Sounds like that circuit board could use a revision to enlarge the holes in the centers of the tube sockets. If the copper traces aren't too close, it could be done to existing boards manually with the right drill bit. A.J. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
[neonixie-l] Re: IN-18 resurrection
The hole for the IN-18 exhaust tip is .250 diameter. Regards, Jeff On Jun 8, 7:46 pm, A.J. Franzman a.j.franz...@verizon.net wrote: On Jun 7, 6:52 pm, Nicholas Stock nickst...@gmail.com wrote: Exactly the same thing happened to me too Waynereplacing a tube in my Nixichron and pop, off came the glass nipple on the base of the IN-18the holes in the PCB aren't that forgiving Sounds like that circuit board could use a revision to enlarge the holes in the centers of the tube sockets. If the copper traces aren't too close, it could be done to existing boards manually with the right drill bit. A.J. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: IN-18 resurrection
I have my one tube, that's it. I could go for having it filled with argon just for grins, I'm concerned that the nipple on my one bad tube may not be broken, it may have lost seal some other way, like one of the cathode or anode pin ports. On 2011 Jun 08, at 20:35 , Gene Segal wrote: Nixie Gang, Am I to assume that nobody on the list has IN-18s with broken nipples (judging by the response)? Should we give it a few more days for folks to chime in? To reiterate, I was hoping to get a pool of people, so that we could collect all the damaged tubes and have one expert do something very interesting with them. Margaret sounds very knowledgable, and I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm going to ask her fill my broken tubes with pure argon. :P -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: IN-18 resurrection
Meredith ( www.6smith.com ) suggested there is a special epoxy. Quote: If you just want to temporarily reinforce a seal, there are high vacuum glass to metal epoxies such as Celvaseal which may not have much longevity, but can help you troubleshoot the problem. Might be a product of interest to those who observe their tube just starting to lose gas (dimmer glow, and partial and traveling cathode discharge). Perhaps an application of this sealant would stop the loss, and voltage/current to the tube could be increased to compensate for the fainter glow. I have my one tube, that's it. I could go for having it filled with argon just for grins, I'm concerned that the nipple on my one bad tube may not be broken, it may have lost seal some other way, like one of the cathode or anode pin ports. On 2011 Jun 08, at 20:35 , Gene Segal wrote: Nixie Gang, Am I to assume that nobody on the list has IN-18s with broken nipples (judging by the response)? Should we give it a few more days for folks to chime in? To reiterate, I was hoping to get a pool of people, so that we could collect all the damaged tubes and have one expert do something very interesting with them. Margaret sounds very knowledgable, and I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm going to ask her fill my broken tubes with pure argon. :P -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: IN-18 resurrection
I think that particular tube may have had just an overly large nipple, that's all..haven't had any problems with the other tubes in the clock after removing them and replacing them (matching tube heights). Cheers, Nick On Wed, Jun 8, 2011 at 7:46 PM, A.J. Franzman a.j.franz...@verizon.netwrote: On Jun 7, 6:52 pm, Nicholas Stock nickst...@gmail.com wrote: Exactly the same thing happened to me too Waynereplacing a tube in my Nixichron and pop, off came the glass nipple on the base of the IN-18the holes in the PCB aren't that forgiving Sounds like that circuit board could use a revision to enlarge the holes in the centers of the tube sockets. If the copper traces aren't too close, it could be done to existing boards manually with the right drill bit. A.J. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
