[neonixie-l] Re: low power nixie tubes?
Nick, Thanks for giving me details about numitron tubes and nixie tubes work. Bryan On Tuesday, November 27, 2012 12:28:32 AM UTC-6, Nick wrote: On Monday, 26 November 2012 19:59:12 UTC, bryan wrote: Just curious to see if anyone from this group knows if there are any low power nixie tubes like IV-9 Numitron tubes that only needs 1V-12V? Not more than 100V? Hi - IV-9s are not nixies - they are numitrons which have incandescent filaments like old light bulbs - a completely different technology. They operate off 4.5V taking about 19mA per segment. The technology in nixies requires the gas in the tube to ionise to get that orange glow round the shaped cathodes - there are basic constraints laid down by laws of physics that determine the energy required to do this, thus the voltage that is required to start ionisation. The voltage at which ionisation starts (the striking voltage) is typically around 160 to 180VDC; once struck, they maintain at a lower voltage (e.g. 120VDC) - the striking voltage for a given tube is determined by physical factors such as gas mix in the tube, pressure, presence of ionising radiation etc. All nixies work this way which is why we use step-up (boost) converters to change low voltages up to typically around 180VDC. Nick -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/h-KLn__J-GgJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] Re: 5BP1 CRT
Interesting offer -- now the dilemma -- do I open the box and test the tube, or leave it in the box untested, where it is perhaps worth more to a collector? I'm really interested in building a scope clock with the tube. Trying to find a kit I like is the problem. Any recommendations? Terry On Nov 25, 3:39 pm, threeneurons threeneur...@yahoo.com wrote: No, I have 2 5BP4s (white phosphor), and they are rather large animals. I don't know what I'm going to do with mine either. On top of that I also have 2 5UP1s. But, I did make a little tube checker, to at least, light them up, and do rough deflection tests. http://threeneurons.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/crt_tst01.jpg It doesn't have a socket, but individual socket pins, so it can be hooked up to just about any electrostatically deflected tube, that can be lit up with ~1700V. The 5BP1 can be operated at 1500V. The tester is small, so if you're interested I could loan it to you. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] Re: Help needed to design Swithmode step-up converter, this time not so Nixie-related
BARBEQUE?? That came out of my fingers as Because... On Tuesday, 27 November 2012 19:30:50 UTC, MrNixie (UK) wrote: Hmm, I think you need to give us a bit more info - your proposed circuit, supply voltage, etc. The mosfet and inductor won't complain much at 100C, but your LEDs might start to! And any electrolytic caps wont be winning any Long Service awards at those temperatures... Is the Mosfet running at this temp barbecue it is dissipating power, or is just in a hot place to begin with? Make sure you are indeed switching the Mosfet cleanly - check the Vgs curves in the spec sheet. Remember that at high frequencies, the gate of a mosfet just looks like a capacitor - you really have to DRIVE current in to it - are you relying solely on the output of the SMPS IC? Re series and parallel LED combinations - general rule of thumb is to arrange your LED load closest to the supply voltage, so that your SMPS is not having to step up or down too far from the supply rail, in either direction. You will see losses if you go for a very low voltage but high current output, or vice-versa My two milliamps' worth - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/Ovq4QPwz_uEJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Help needed to design Swithmode step-up converter, this time not so Nixie-related
Is the Mosfet running at this temp barbecue it is dissipating power, or is just in a hot place to begin with? Reminds me of a license plate I saw a while back reading PNP BBQ: http://www.vitriol.com/images/humour/PNPBBQ.jpg - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] Re: IN-9's for sale
$1.25 per tube, any quantity. Shipping is a USPS padded flat rate envelope. $5.30 inside US, $12.95 to Canada or Mexico, and $16.95 to any other country. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/5JnFXN31eBAJ. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[neonixie-l] Re: low power nixie tubes?
On Nov 27, 5:22 am, bryan bryan...@gmail.com wrote: Thanks for giving me details about numitron tubes and nixie tubes work. You might also want to look at VFD's. These require a low filament voltage (usually 1.2V to 5V) and a slightly higher voltage to activate the segments - something like 20V to 35V. These tubes range in size from fingernail to soda-can size, and even the largest can be tested with just a few batteries, like 3 9V batteries in series, as well as whatever is needed for the filament. Here's one of the larger types: http://www.decadecounter.com/vta/articleview.php?item=1071 And if you want something truly bizarre and high-voltage, there are devices like the ITS1A, which uses 50V, 100V, and -300V supplies, but the segments are directly controllable with TTL logic! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups neonixie-l group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
