Re: [neonixie-l] NL5971, B5971,B-5971 Alphanumeric Nixie Tubes 6 pcs, NOS/NIB, MOD-SIX Clock

[Tony]

Ask Jan has 5971s up for $16 each - or did have until probably 5
minutes after your post...

On Mon, 8 Apr 2019 07:24:42 -0700, you wrote:

>Another unbelievably expensive set of tubes
>
>
>Look at this on eBay
>NL5971, B5971,B-5971 Alphanumeric Nixie Tubes 6 pcs, NOS/NIB, MOD-SIX Clock
>
>
>
>Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [neonixie-l] OT - mystery machine

[Tony]

Acetylene lighthouse lamp?.

On Tue, 18 Aug 2020 17:18:17 +0100, you wrote:

>I know many of you like the steampunk look and so might forgive the 
>off-topic picture.
>
>This item was in use every day between 1914 and 1988. Can you guess what 
>it is? I bet some clever clogs here knows.
>
>John S

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Re: [neonixie-l] Help with upgrading my soldering iron

[Tony]

For that kind of money you could probably pick up a used Metcal and a
couple of tips.

Tony.

On Sun, 16 Feb 2014 19:23:21 +0100, you wrote:

>On 16/02/2014, at 19.12, blkadder wrote:
>
>> Greetings All,
>> 
>> I am hoping you can help me make a decision.  I have been using my Radio 
>> Shack 25w soldering iron for a few years now, and it is time to upgrade.  I 
>> have been scouring boards and other Interwebz sites, and I think I have 
>> narrowed it down to two.
>> 
>> Here are the ones I am looking at:
>> 
>> Hakko FX888D digital soldering station
>> 
>> Aoyue 968A SMD Digital Rework Station
>
>I'd take the Hakko over the Aoyue _anytime_. I own the Aoyue, and the 
>soldering iron is /shit/. I only use the machine for it's not-so-good 
>hot-air-rework, but it's good enough for heat shrink and the occasional rework.
>
>// Per.

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Re: [neonixie-l] IN-18 tubes requires or ZM1042

[Tony]

I should have 12, bought them a couple of years back but they're too
expensive to use in any design I'm likely to come up with. If you're
interested I can test them and see what date codes they are,

Tony.


On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 11:24:34 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

>Hi All,
>
>I'm after 2 sets of 6 IN-18's ( or ZM1042 / equiv ).
>
>Wondered if there is anyone on here who would be able to sell me some 
>direct, save giving a slice to eBay?
>If in the UK I can do a bank transfer.
>
>Drop me a line if you can help.
>
>Cheers,
>Paul

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Re: [neonixie-l] Defective B7971 Tubes & Ultronic Chassis

[Tony]

Hi,
I might be interested in taking those which illuminate but have dead
segments. I did post a couple of requests on here back in 2013/14 (I
think) for faulty 7971s but couldn't find enough at the time so the
project went on the shelf.

Tony.

On Mon, 7 Aug 2017 23:15:41 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

>I'm curious if anyone on the board has come up with any kind of use for 
>defective B7971 tubes?  Over the years, I have collected a few of the 
>chassis from the Ultronic displays and have also ended up with tubes that 
>were missing segments or had leaked.  I have 5-6 of them and wondered if 
>anyone had ideas for things to do with them.  I've used a dead tube to 
>space socket pin connectors in a couple of projects but wonder if there is 
>something more useful than discarding them.  I'm trying to clear out some 
>stuff...
>
>Jeff

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: 26 In18 Tubes

[Tony]

I notice you're sending them via the global tube disposal program so
anyone outside the US will never see them.

Does ebay give you an option to not use it or is it forced on you when
you list them with international postage?.
Tony.

On Mon, 14 May 2018 20:10:51 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

>I definitely want an honest listing. Please provide feedback if you think the 
>listing isn’t clear. I definitely want to be clear on what is being sold.
>
>Jeff

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: 26 In18 Tubes

[Tony]

That's interesting - so you have them listed as US only and didn't
know that ebay are offering them to the UK (and other countries) via
their GSP?.

I see '$32.64 International Priority Shipping to United Kingdom  via
the Global Shipping Program'.

They have a reputation for destroying anything that looks like it
'contains Mercury' usually vintage vacuum tubes. In this case though
they'd be correct as you can see the small Mercury 'pill' in a wire
spiral at the tube base.

Tony. 


On Mon, 14 May 2018 22:16:09 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

>I don’t follow your statement? Are you suggesting another shipping method and 
>opening up to international bidders? I have locked down to domestic shipping 
>only.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Assembled LED Cube Recommendation

[Tony]

They are RGB LEDs with an onboard shift register/controller meaning
they can be connected as a series string using just 4 wires. 
Instead of a 3-dimensional soldering nightmare you just need say 64
vertical strings of 8 LEDs. Drivers are simplified as they can be
connected directly to a microcintroller port pin. They're also
available in a standard 5mm resin lens leaded package but not as easy
to find.
That is a very neat cube.

Tony..

On Thu, 30 Aug 2018 19:11:24 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

>I am not familiar with those square Leds... are they better than normal 
>leds? Or not as good as normal leds? When I say normal leds, I mean the 
>leds that are used on the 
>hypnocube http://hypnocube.com/products/4cube/4cube/
>
>On Thursday, August 30, 2018 at 12:35:24 AM UTC-5, Pramanicin wrote:
>>
>> Yes, but in person it looks great. And you can upload new ‘sketches’ to it 
>> via a web portal or even write your own animations etc
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 29, 2018, at 22:18, Darin Hensley > > wrote:
>>
>> Thanks, that's exactly what I'm looking for.
>>
>>  Except there's one issue... I like the normal LEDs and that Cube looks 
>> like it has small squares for LEDs instead. Am I seeing that correctly?
>>
>> Sent From Samsung S7
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 29, 2018, 9:52 PM Nicholas Stock > > wrote:
>>
>>> https://lookingglassfactory.com/product/l3d-cube/
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Aug 29, 2018, at 19:50, Dman777 > 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I have a 4x4x4 LED cube that I bought about 7 years ago. It's cool, but 
>>> it doesn't have cool effects that I see in today's youtube videos like the 
>>> rain effect. Can anyone recommend a 4x4x4 or 8x8x8 RGB led cube that has 
>>> cool effects like rain? Also I am looking for having it programmable easily 
>>> with presets. 
>>>
>>>
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Re: [neonixie-l] Filament transfomer current for driving six NIMOs?

[Tony]

The old-school method used was a thermistor in series with the heater
chain, chosen with a suitably high resistance when cold which would
slowly drop as it warmed up to a low operating value.

Tony.

On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 14:10:40 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

>Congratulations on acquiring 6 NIMOs !!
>
>I've gone thru all the NIMO filament analysis and came up with the 
>following, which I have implemented in my design
>
>1. Transformer is 2.5V CT, 3A. Triad F301X.. It has dual primaries so it 
>can operate on 115 or 230 VAC mains.
>2. Series fuse 250mA (BEL C1F250). One for each NIMO
>3. Series resistor; empirically I'm choosing 6.8ohms.
>
>The filament is the most-critical reliability-impacting element of your 
>NIMO tubes, so be extra careful to make sure you design with this in-mind.
>Filaments usually fail due to power-on surge-current, just like 
>conventional incandescent bulbs. The surge-current is the result of the 
>lower-resistance of a cold filament being the only limiter of current. For 
>example, measured NIMO-tube filament resistance varies from about 2.8 ohms 
>cold, to 7.0 ohms when stabilized at 200mA. If you use a constant voltage 
>to power the filaments, you will have significant surge current. But if you 
>add some series resistance and drive from a higher supply voltage, the 
>surge current will be less. With the components I listed above, the surge 
>current is about 260mA.
>
>The fast-blow fuse will protect the NIMO from line-surges, or other 
>uncontrollables.
>
>I'm almost done with my NIMO clock, and I will collect waveforms of the 
>power-on transient for each filament once I get my other tubes (I have 1, 
>need 5 more)

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Re: [neonixie-l] OT: Reasonable quality step-up converter?

[Tony]

Have you had a look at the transformer in the Weller to see if it has
a centre tapped primary or if not, is it a standard type that could be
replaced with a 110V version?

Tony.

On Wed, 24 Oct 2018 12:20:39 -0600, you wrote:

>Hi folks,
>
>This is a bit off-topic, but I hope somebody can help. As some of you 
>know I live in Canada, but I am originally from Germany. Most of my 
>tools can be switched between 110V/220V input, so that's fine, except 
>for my soldering station. It is a Weller 40W digital station that I have 
>had for years and I do not want to buy a new one. The problem: it only 
>has a 220V input.
>
>So I was looking for a step-up converter, and I was surprised by the 
>crappy quality of almost everything out there. If you look on Amazon or 
>Ebay, there are a lot of types very similar to this one here:
>
>  * 
> http://www.amazon.com/Instapark-ITU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B07B9F87HG/
>
>Usually around USD 50 with quite a few negative reviews (typically 
>around 10%) of people saying it eventually almost burned up their house. 
>Not interested! So I was trying to find something reasonable, which 
>turned out to be a bit more difficult that I had originally anticipated. 
>I found these here:
>
>  * http://www.kriegermfg.com/products/voltage-transformers/
>
>Do you think these are reliable? Or where else can I find something of 
>decent quality? I am looking for something around 300-400W.
>
>Many thanks and best wishes from Canada
>Jens

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Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Counterfeit RTC modules

[Tony]

There are indeed some strange 'counterfeits' around. Maybe they were a
deliberate attempt to confuse reverse engineering of some product, but
never used? or it could have been a simple mistake.

I have a few thousand MPSA92 which have been remarked from MPSA42,
with the 4 and 9 superimposed. They work perfectly as PNP HV
transistors so it's possible somebody just forgot to change the
engraver text and the mistake wasn't noticed until they had a large
pile of mismarked PNP MPSA42s.

Tony.

On Fri, 25 Jan 2019 22:38:43 +, you wrote:

>Hi Bill,
>
>Indeed, it seems bonkers.  I assume it's because someone has a huge stash
>of open collector output 74 series shift registers, and either thinks
>they're the same, or that most people won't notice the difference.
>
>I bought two batches of 500 of them, from two different chinese suppliers,
>and they are all exactly the same, having the same laser engraved batch
>number even.  To be fair, the prices were suspiciously good, but I wasn't
>banking on fake shift register ICs
>
>They are badged as TI SN74HC595N, and batch GM1807FSF.
>
>I have some 'normal' SN74HC595N, and swapping these out for the real ones
>generates the expected behaviour ( and yes,  inv G is indeed pulled low).
>
>With the 'fake' ones, they will appear to work OK with a pull up resistor
>present (as you'd expect with an open collector output), but are unable to
>source any current.
>
>I thought it was just me, but then I googled GM1807FSF and found someone
>else (in German) having the same problem!
>
>https://www.mikrocontroller.net/topic/463936
>
>David
>
>On Fri, 25 Jan 2019 at 22:24, Bill van Dijk  wrote:
>
>> That is really weird. Please understand I am not questioning what you are
>> saying, but perhaps there is another explanation. The 74LS596 (I have never
>> seen an HC version) is indeed an open collector chip similar to the
>> 74HC595, which is a tri-state device. On the 74HC595 the inv G (pin 13)
>> should be held low for normal operation. If it goes high for any reason,
>> the output will float in tri-state mode, similar to what an open collector
>> would look like. As you say, I can’t for the life of me not figure why
>> anyone would bother to rebadge those chips especially since there does not
>> seem to be an economic one (which is usually the motivation).
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] *On
>> Behalf Of *David Pye
>> *Sent:* Friday, January 25, 2019 4:12 PM
>> *To:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Counterfeit RTC modules
>>
>>
>>
>> It seems even things barely worth faking are being faked also.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a bag of 500 74HC595 shift registers, that are actually rebadged
>> 74HC596s (as in, open collector, SINK, not SOURCE-capable).
>>
>>
>>
>> Which are useless for my application :-(
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
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Re: [neonixie-l] re warantee on unproven products

[Tony]

There was a large quantity of what was claimed to be IN-18 production
equipment and consumables offered (for an absurdly high price) on ebay
a few years back - it was dicussed on here at the time but the current
price of tubes made uneconomical to consider.
Maybe if they bought or had access to that, it would have provided a
base from which to build production. Note that these are pinch seal
tubes though, not pin bases, going by their size..

Tony.

On Sun, 10 Feb 2019 10:18:57 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

>Looks professional, lets see how this comes out. The original IN-18 was 
>manufactured in Sovejet Union in the town of Rovno, which is now ukraine... as 
>far as i know, the last IN-18 were made in 1992, only 26 years ago. There 
>might be the possibilty that they found people that actually were working in 
>the IN-18 factory and have knowledge about these tubes but its just a wild 
>guess..

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[neonixie-l] Re: WAY way off topic but they light up...

[Tony Adams]

On Nov 14, 8:27 pm, orange_glow_fan  wrote:
> Hi, Found this on youtube and can NOT figure out how it works.
> Included is TWO links to slightly differing versions..
>
> Help..
>
> http://wn.com/Light_Bulb_Trick
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGm5_uo5cHQ&feature=related
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kerry

My guess would be a microcontroller which switches to the next
sequence when all 4 switches are off. As long as you memorise what
order it changes them in it'll work.

Then I saw this one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lw9MGa7iQq4

Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working

[Tony Adams]

First of all I'd go back to using a 10-15 ohm resistor in series with
the 12v supply, it will still work and produce 180-200v out for test
purposes.

Don't bother putting another mosfet in just yet, you need to fid out
why it's being fried first.

Probably either the mark/space ratio is too long or it's being driven
on permanently. What's the DC voltage on pin 3?.

You could try connecting one pin of a small cap, maybe .1u to pin 3
and connecting your meter probe to the other pin, if it's oscillating
you should get a reading therough the capacitor. Or try a cheap AM
radio next to it, you may pick up harmonics.

I would check around the feedback circuit and Q2, beyond that you
really need a scope to see what the gate drive looks like. It could be
very long rise/fall times though if they're failing almost instantly
it's probably just the 555 output is stuck high.

Tony.

On Nov 18, 11:31 pm, Imbanon  wrote:
> Just tested my FETs. I have 2 new in working order, the other 3 are as
> good as a broken nixie. Now I'm afraid of using them, they are my last
> x)
>
> I can't test the inductors, but they should be 100uH, 1watt max. I
> can't test them, nor do they have any markings on them. Just plain
> black cover.
> The diodes are UF4004. I suppose they should work..
>
> Can I use some other inductor, like 220uH?
> Also, how do I check if my 555 is oscillating without an oscilloscope?
>
> Thanks!
>
> On Nov 18, 10:29 pm, Quixotic Nixotic 
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > I've made up dozens of these supplies in all kinds of layout
> > configurations and have found them to be bomb-proof. In fact I have
> > never had a failure yet, they work every time. The circuit will work
> > without the snubber R6/C3.
>
> > There must be some simple answer to your problem. It seems to me as
> > if the 555 might not be doing any switching, or doing it incorrectly.
> > Or as you say the FET is not all it's cracked up to be, or the diode
> > is not fast enough. Check the value and rating of your inductor.
>
> > The FET should not get too hot. Usually it will run cool enough for
> > you to hold it.
>
> > John S
>
> > On 18 Nov 2011, at 19:43, Imbanon wrote:
>
> > > Hi all.
>
> > > Yeah, another thread about this supply..http://www.ledsales.com.au/
> > > kits/nixie_supply.pdf
> > > I know I could and should have made that Maxim power supply, but I
> > > didn't. So now I'm stuck fixing this with loads of spare parts I've
> > > got... except for the FETs..
>
> > > Anyways, the supply isn't working. The first one I made worked just
> > > fine for 15 minutes, powering 6 IN-14 at 170 volts (multiplexed). Then
> > > I set it to 200 volts (to get RMS of 2mA), which worked for 5 minutes,
> > > and then smoked and failed.
> > > I made another on a quick PCB, which just smoked immediately when I
> > > switched it on. The same thing happened to the newest, breadboarded
> > > one.
> > > The MOSFET seems to overheat instantly and smoke out. Having nothing
> > > to lose (except the molten hole in the breadboard), I left it powered,
> > > to see the diode smoking next. Aparently, its still in working order
> > > (so says the multimeter).
> > > Heat sinking FET only makes it last longer in not working state before
> > > it smokes.
>
> > > I tried replacing inductors, 555s, diodes, transistors..
> > > What the F**K do I do people? Losing my head here!
>
> > > And yeah, I'm powering it at 12 volts, tried 5. Output is always 3-6
> > > volts.
>
> > > Thank you for any help provided!
> > > Imbanon
>
> > > --
> > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> > > Groups "neonixie-l" group.
> > > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l
> > > +unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > > For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/
> > > group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
> > 
>
> > JS Design
> > 54 Brambledown Road
> > Wallington
> > Surrey
> > SM6 0TF
>
> > T+F +44 (0)20 8773 4779www.jsdesign.co.uk

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[neonixie-l] Re: 555 power supply not working

[Tony Adams]

I just noticed this bit: 'I left it powered, to see the diode smoking
next.'

If the mosfet was fried before then, the diode should just have been
sitting there with nothing to do. I assume it's not connected to the
rest of the clock?.

Power it up with a 15R series resistor, no mosfet and come back with
some voltages.

Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: The difference between IV4 and IV17 vfd tubes

[Tony Adams]

I've just looked through some displays, the only difference I can see
is the two IV-17s here (8909 and 9305) have a small dimple in the
centre of the shadowmask.

I also have a box of IV-4s dated 0286 which are printed using white
ink.

The 1000 hours lifetime is hopefully a misprint, there shouldn't be
that much difference in the build to shorten it by 9000 hours and why
continue to build a vastly inferior tube when you have a functionally
identical and improved design available?.
Tony.

On Nov 20, 10:43 pm, fixitsan  wrote:
> I've just had a look at all of the types of IV4 and IV17 tubes in my
> collection to try to establish what, if any, are the main differences.
>
> Due to the high res images producing a large file size I couldn't
> upload the document here, so I've posted it on 
> Mediafirehttp://www.mediafire.com/myfiles.php?r=mbvfp

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[neonixie-l] Re: 555 based HV supply question

[Tony Adams]

A quick search at Farnell lists the cheapest 34063 at 41p for one and
the cheapest 555 at 36p. I just don't get why 555 based supplies are
so popular.

On Nov 21, 10:56 pm, "MrNixie (UK)" 
wrote:
> No doubt these 555 power supplies can work, but the efficiency can be
> poor, and there is no current overload protection. If you can live
> with the extra wasted power (means a heat sink, for your numbers) and
> can trust yourself never to short the power supply out, then these
> circuits will deliver. But you will never beat a custom SMPS IC with a
> generic 30 year old one IMHO.
>
> On Nov 21, 5:50 pm, "chuck richards"  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > All of the recent discussion about the little boost converter
> > HV supply is getting me interested in trying the idea.
>
> > I looked around on the web and came across a few schematics
> > for it.  It uses a 555 timer ic as the controller, and I
> > see that various frequencies are used.   Looks like
> > rounding up the FET, the diode, and the inductor would
> > be no big deal.
>
> > But, are these things really any good?  Will one of them
> > hold decent regulation when running (6) nixies?
>
> > My estimated total current at 170 volts DC would
> > be about 2.2 mA per tube.   That would be about 13.2 mA
> > total.  Is it worth experimenting with?
>
> > I ask, because it seems quite tough to beat John Taylor's
> > model 1363 and 1364 power supplies.  I have one of his 1364
> > supplies here, and it's really slick!
>
> > Thanks.    Chuck Richards
>
> > $4.95/mo. National Dialup, Anti-Spam, Anti-Virus, 5mb personal web space. 
> > 5x faster dialup for only $9.95/mo. No contracts, No fees, No Kidding! 
> > Seehttp://www.All2Easy.netformore details!

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[neonixie-l] Re: The difference between IV4 and IV17 vfd tubes

[Tony Adams]

I found one of the single sheet datasheets in the IV-4 box from 1986
which seems to indicate an anode voltage of 25v and lifetime of 5000
hours, I could scan and upload it if there's any interest.

Tony.

On Nov 21, 12:31 pm, GastonP  wrote:
> According to another manual (Vukolov) both have a life expectancy of
> 3,000 hours, there are small differences regarding filament voltages,
> but the most important one I see is that the grid and anode voltages
> are specified at 50V for the IV-4 and 25V for the IV-17.
>
> Gaston
>
> On Nov 21, 5:51 am, fixitsan  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > > The 1000 hours lifetime is hopefully a misprint, there shouldn't be
> > > that much difference in the build to shorten it by 9000 hours and why
> > > continue to build a vastly inferior tube when you have a functionally
> > > identical and improved design available?.
> > > Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: The difference between IV4 and IV17 vfd tubes

[Tony Adams]

It seems an extreme way of expanding your product line though how
these things were arranged when the factory was probably just told to
make xx000's a year I don't know.

Would have been a lot more useful if they'd used the materials to make
bucketloads if IV-2s though, I have yet to find even one.

Tony.

On Nov 21, 8:51 am, fixitsan  wrote:
> > The 1000 hours lifetime is hopefully a misprint, there shouldn't be
> > that much difference in the build to shorten it by 9000 hours and why
> > continue to build a vastly inferior tube when you have a functionally
> > identical and improved design available?.
> > Tony.
>
> That is an excellent point Tony.
> The cost to build the IV17 must be about the same as the IV4, so pin
> compatibility means you would naturally choose the better tube for the
> same price, and the low demand for the IV4 would put them out of
> production, if there were major difference between them (and the cost
> was the same)
>
> I had an amusing thought, that the IV4 and the IV17 both continued to
> be made just to make the factory appear to have a broader product
> range.
> Could there be a benefit to showing you had a wider range of products
> in preference to producing higher volumes of a smaller range?
>
> Chris

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[neonixie-l] Re: Yet more 7441, 74141 questions

[Tony Adams]

Hi,
They certainly weren't designed to run like that, they only produce an
output as they don't have extra logic to prevent it. It was left up to
the design engineer using them to make sure it would only be fed BCD.

As for alternatives, for my latest design I eventually went for 4028s
and SN75468s. It wouldn't be so bad if there was even a suitable
transistor array with 10 or 11 outputs.

Tony.


On Nov 23, 9:33 pm, "chuck richards"  wrote:
> Thank you all for those suggestions and the experiment to
> observe what actually happens when Vcc is disconnected
> from a 7441/74141 driver ic.  I will be trying all of those
> very soon here.
>
> Here is another curious aside that goes along with the
> 7441 questions.   The 7441 does not blank hex codes A through F,
> as the 74141 does.
>
> I got to experimenting with an old 7441 in this mode.
> I had one connected to a binary counter that was counting
> single seconds.  The 7441 then was operating the nixie tube
> normally for digits 0 through 9, and then it also was displaying
> the codes A through F.
>
> Here's what my old 7441s do for those codes:
>
> 1010  lights 2 and 8
> 1011  lights 3 and 9
> 1100  lights 4 and 8
> 1101  lights 5 and 9
> 1110  lights 6 and 8
>   lights 7 and 9
>
> It works great except that it appears to maybe exceed the
> total package dissipation of the chip, because after a while,
> one digit inevitably sticks "on" after running in this mode.
>
> So, even though the chip is built this way that it
> turns on two outputs simultaneously for codes greater than 9,
> it appears that it eventually destroys the ic.
>
> My guess is that having two outputs on at the same time
> is a bit more than the ic can handle.
>
> Anyone else know anything about this, or have any insight
> or opinions about it?
>
> Thanks, Chuck
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Original Message 
> >From: threeneur...@yahoo.com
> >To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
> >Subject: RE: [POSSIBLE SPAM]  [neonixie-l] Re: Yet more 7441, 74141
> >questions
> >Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 12:58:38 -0800 (PST)
>
> >>> the 7441/74141 having some path that would try to
> >>> draw excessive current from the inputs when Vcc is
> >>> disconnected.
>
> >>> Is this a good idea to try, or is it a recipe for
> >>> trashing some HC160 counters?
>
> >>Its possible. The only way to really find out, is to run an
> >>experiment. Get one of your 74141s, and tie the gnd, and leave Vcc
> >>open. Connect a 470 ohm resistors to each input. Connect the other
> >>side of those resistors to its own DIP switch. A 4 switch DIP switch
> >>is needed. Tie the other side of the DIP switches to +5V. Gnd the
> >>negative side of your 5V source. Try all 16 input combinations, and
> >>see if there's a voltage drop across any of those resistors.
>
> >>The inputs of old TTL was usually the emitter of an NPN transistor,
> >so
> >>it would be reverse biased if you tried your scheme. Ideally, it
> >>shouldn't draw any current. But it may, if (1) 5V exceeds its
> >reverse
> >>breakdown rating; doubtful, or (2) there is some protection circuit,
> >>or phantom substrate structure. In old TTL, there usually wasn't any
> >>protection circuits, but a phantom diode is possible. Only way to
> >find
> >>out, is by experiment.
>
> >>If the input impedance is still high with no power, then your good
> >to
> >>go. However, if excess current is drawn. Excessive, being more than
> >>the HC160s are rated for, or higher than you want to supply,
> >whichever
> >>is less, then you got work to do. A possible solution (if needed) is
> >>to insert a schottky diode in series in each input path. Anodes
> >toward
> >>the counter, cathodes towards the 74141s. put 10K pull-up resistors
> >on
> >>each 74141 input. Tie the power side of those pull-ups to the VCC
> >pin
> >>of its nearest 74141. This is a pseudo-open-collector arrangement.
> >>Real TTL tended to have a soft pull-up. The 10K pull-ups will tend
> >to
> >>bring up into a safe Logic-1, when the circuit is powered. The
> >diodes
> >>will only allow the counters to sink the inputs to 0. When the
> >>counters output a 1, the diode is reversed, and off. The pull-up
> >will
> >>bring it to a logic 1. I suggest small signal schottky diodes,
> >because
> >>they have smaller forward voltage drops than your jelly-bean 1N914.
> >A
> >>logic 0 must be 0.8V or 

[neonixie-l] Re: Finishing touches to nixie project

[Tony Adams]

Hi,
I usually buy from this supplier (they're close enough to collect) if
it helps give you an idea of Perspex prices:

http://www.plasticstockist.com/Acrylic-Sheet.aspx

We have a CNC router/engraver here but my (very few) clock cases up to
now have been in wood.

Tony.

On Nov 24, 1:21 am, pewter  wrote:
> I have a some nixie designs i.e. psu, thermometer, clock and want to
> house or lable them. Can anyone recommend a company who can supply and
> engrave acrylic sheet, often known as perspex, in the UK? Its OK to
> get the electronics up and working but the problem for me is to make
> it look smart.
> Thanks

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[neonixie-l] Re: IV-17 Explorer boards and FLW/Geeklok instruction request

[Tony Adams]

I have the Geekklok PDF (v2.0, 28 Aug 2003) if that's any use. Found
it a couple of years ago, can't remember where now. It's mostly of use
for the fonts list, it can even display the time in Klingon :).

Tony.

On Dec 9, 12:29 am, fixitsan  wrote:
> Latest news on the IV-17 explorer boards and Smartocket pics is 
> herehttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/smartsockets/message/797
>
> I am also seeking to find copies of original Zetalink documentation
> for the FLW and Geeklok by Ray Weisling. (I've tried the internet
> archive but they aren't easy to find)
>
> Cheers !
>
> Chris Barron

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[neonixie-l] Re: clock kits

[Tony Adams]

I prefer using Dichloromethane, it may be easier to find or cause less
difficult questions.

Tony.

On Jan 12, 9:27 pm, Adam Jacobs  wrote:
> Wow, that's a great tip. Thanks.
>
> Now, I wonder if there is any way for a normal citizen in the US to
> obtain chloroform... and if I do, will the department of homeland
> security kick my door in?
>
> -Adam
>
> On 1/12/2012 1:25 PM, Tidak Ada wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > If you 'glue' the plexiglass with a solution  of plexi sawdust in
> > chloroform, you can make weldings almost invisible.
> > A bit help with pure chloroform in a syringe with a fine needle, makes
> > it even finer (Carefull  your hand wil warm and evaporate the
> > chloroform so the pressure in the syringe rises and will expel the
> > fluid !! ) .
> > eric
> > 
> > *From:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
> > [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Adam Jacobs
> > *Sent:* donderdag 12 januari 2012 19:01
> > *To:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
> > *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] clock kits
>
> > That is a nicely executed acrylic box case, Nick. Acrylic boxes are my
> > goto cheap case of choice (because I live near Tap Plastics and can
> > have one made for less than $5). They are more transparent than glass,
> > so any adhesive becomes visible. Mine are much less clean than
> > Nick's.   (.. and yes, I know about your famous aversion to box cases,
> > Mike. :D )
>
> > -Adam
>
> > On 1/12/2012 9:19 AM, Nicholas Stock wrote:
> >> The case for the IN-18 clock on his website came from me, so if
> >> you're interested then PM me...I'm getting a few more made and other
> >> similar cases for his IN8/IN-14/IN16 clocks
>
> >> On Thu, Jan 12, 2012 at 9:12 AM,  >> <mailto:micha...@aol.com>> wrote:
>
> >>     I have purchased about 20 kits from Pete.
> >>     Had issues with bouncing (button press); however, he was on top
> >>     of it with sending new controllers.
> >>     So, he stands by his items.
> >>     PS.  Damn, I didn't know he had cases available.  I need to get a
> >>     few now.  :)
> >>     Michail
> >>     In a message dated 1/12/2012 9:08:16 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> >>     nickst...@gmail.com <mailto:nickst...@gmail.com> writes:
>
> >>         Check outwww.pvelectronics.co.uk
> >>         <http://www.pvelectronics.co.uk/> for kits that can include
> >>         cases. I've built a few of them and they're very good.
>
> >>         Nick
>
> >>     --
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[neonixie-l] Re: Shameless Self Plug : B7971 on ebay

[Tony Adams]

Unfortunately I am in the UK and looking for at least another two
7971s but can't afford them just now.

B.Bamber - I remember buying surplus junk from them back in the early
80s I think, but back then nobody wanted nixies. Another surplus
seller had bags of miniature nixies 10 or 15 for £1, at least I did
buy a couple of those just in case they came in handy one day

On Feb 12, 9:13 pm, Alex Grant  wrote:
> A shameless bit of self publicity: I have been promising a work
> college I would sell these for him for ages - bit of a shame really as
> I wouldn't mind them myself but I made the rookie mistake of telling
> him they were worth a reasonable sum... If you are after some 7971s in
> the UK, check out item # 220953104146 on ebay.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Shameless Self Plug : B7971 on ebay

[Tony Adams]

Two for a pound - where's my time machine?.

Those things are literally going to be worth their weight in gold
soon.

On Feb 13, 3:16 pm, Mefistofelix  wrote:
> Lney prices !   - I'm out !

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[neonixie-l] Re: b7971 are getting really expensive :(

[Tony Adams]

The one on the left - with the badly bent pins - doesn't appear to
have an evacuation nipple.

Ouch.

On Feb 16, 7:37 pm, marcin  wrote:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/290668961727$137.5 a piece for two untested
> tubes... And they are different from each other. My gods.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Driving nixies

[Tony Adams]

Yes, the clamping voltage is a little too low - I've tried them. They
do work but a bit too much haze from the other cathodes. You might get
away with it using coloured tubes.

Tony.

On Feb 17, 1:21 am, Dylan Distasio  wrote:
> My bad, sorry I really should have checked the voltage before posting this!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 7:59 PM, Spencer W  wrote:
> > I think from the datasheet,
> >http://www.adafruit.com/datasheets/tpic6b595.pdf, it looks like the max
> > is 50 volts. Good for vfd's. :) only my guess though
>
> > Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Feb 16, 2012, at 6:18 PM, William Lee  wrote:
>
> > Hi all-
>
> > I had a question on driving nixies using something other than 74141s.
> >  Would any driver that can sink higher currents work ok?  Am I right in
> > assuming I can use a driver that sinks with nixies because the cathodes are
> > connected to ground when not floating?
>
> > For example, would this one work to use as a shift register?  I realize I
> > won't need one for my current project that already has 74141s wired into
> > the circuit, but was thinking ahead to building a clock from scratch.
>
> > "Add a bunch of high-power outputs to a microcontroller system with
> > chainable shift registers. These chips take a serial input (SPI) of 1 byte
> > (8 bits) and then output those digital bits onto 8 pins. You can chain them
> > together so putting three in a row with the serial output of one plugged
> > into the serial input of another to make 3 x 8 = 24 digital outputs. You
> > can chain pretty much as many as you want. This makes it easy to control a
> > lot of outputs like LEDs from only 3 digital microcontroller pins.
>
> > This item contains *one TPIC6B595 chip*! These chips similarly to the
> > more well known 7HC595s but they are high power drains, able to sink 150mA
> > per pin."
>
> >https://www.adafruit.com/products/457
>
> > As always thanks to the list for your advice and info.
>
> > -Dylan
>
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "neonixie-l" group.
> > To view this discussion on the web, visit
> >https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/GyQxhBmCTPQJ.
> > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group at
> >http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
> >  --
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[neonixie-l] Re: Any interest in non-working IN-18's?

[Tony Adams]

I would be interested in them depending on the price but suspect that
postage and taxes to the UK would make it uneconomical.

Tony.

On Mar 6, 7:36 am, Terry Kennedy  wrote:
> I have qty 13 of non-working (no illumination on any digits at all,
> seals appear intact) IN-18 Nixies.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Attention!! NEW Nixie tube cheater at Ebay!!!

[Tony Adams]

Over the last few months I have bought a number of parcels of IV11s
from an ebay seller who regularly posts them in lots of 100. They
arrived well packed and without difficulties so I had no worries when
asked to buy a batch directly. I bought 2 further parcels through ebay
after that direct purchase which arrived OK but no sign of the batch
bought directly.
I opened a paypal case and was told it would be sorted out 'we have
traded many times trust us' so I let the claim lapse. Of course
nothing arrived and requests for tracking numbers for that parcel have
been unanswered so I'm out of pocket for 100x IV11 tubes.
I've also now been blocked from bidding on their items which has the
effect of preventing me contacting the seller through ebay.

Very disappointing as it was such a small purchase, why bother doing
that for less than $80?..

On Apr 9, 9:37 am, "Dieter Waechter"  wrote:
> Attention Attention!!!
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Attention!! NEW Nixie tube cheater at Ebay!!!

[Tony Adams]

Hi,
Very good advice, I've had to do so in the past with a couple of other
sellers and have had no problems to date with ebay and paypal issuing
a refund.

The problem this time was I trusted the seller to sort it out. I know
better for next time and it's a shame I'll now have to be a bit more
suspicious when there is a problem, even with sellers I've trusted in
the past.

Dieter, the seller is polivoks-russia.

Tony.

On Apr 18, 3:48 am, Adam Jacobs  wrote:
> Always use the ebay resolution center. Never let a claim lapse. I would
> take this as an $80 lesson and be glad that it wasn't far more money. :)
> If you let the claim lapse, you are telling ebay that you no longer have
> a dispute. I always start the resolution center case _immediately_
> whenever anything starts to go wrong. It is often good at lighting a
> fire under the seller, even in the best of circumstances. If they
> respond but they aren't solving it, then escalate it to ebay customer
> service. They _ALWAYS_ favor the buyer.
>
> -Adam
>
> On 4/17/2012 6:13 PM, Tony Adams wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Over the last few months I have bought a number of parcels of IV11s
> > from an ebay seller who regularly posts them in lots of 100. They
> > arrived well packed and without difficulties so I had no worries when
> > asked to buy a batch directly. I bought 2 further parcels through ebay
> > after that direct purchase which arrived OK but no sign of the batch
> > bought directly.
> > I opened a paypal case and was told it would be sorted out 'we have
> > traded many times trust us' so I let the claim lapse. Of course
> > nothing arrived and requests for tracking numbers for that parcel have
> > been unanswered so I'm out of pocket for 100x IV11 tubes.
> > I've also now been blocked from bidding on their items which has the
> > effect of preventing me contacting the seller through ebay.
>
> > Very disappointing as it was such a small purchase, why bother doing
> > that for less than $80?..
>
> > On Apr 9, 9:37 am, "Dieter Waechter"  wrote:
> >> Attention Attention!!!

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[neonixie-l] Looking for a couple of IN-7s (UK)

[Tony Adams]

Hi all,

I'm working on a new design and would like a couple of IN7s to try out
- I have IN-15s and IN-19s but didn't think I would need any IN-7s.
Does anyone in the UK have a couple I could buy to try out?.

Thanks,
Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: IN-23 (multisegment nixie) on ebay

[Tony Adams]

It does seem over the last couple of years many sellers have realised
they have us by the shorts as they control a limited supply.

Tony.

On 21 June, 19:11, Jeff Thomas  wrote:
> Ahhh yes, they smell blood in the water...
>
> Just like the IN-18's; the cartel has fixed their prices even though nobody
> appears to be paying. Well, maybe Dieter.
>
> Regards, Jeff
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, June 21, 2012 9:40:46 AM UTC-7, marcin wrote:
>
> > Did any of you hear about IN-23 tubes? And there is somebody selling them:
> >http://www.ebay.com/itm/IN-23-X-1pcs-23-NEW-NIXIE-RAREST-LIMITED-EDIT...that 
> >the price quickly raised from 35USD per two to 48USD for each.

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[neonixie-l] Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Hi all,

Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
something nixie-based.

I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.

Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
found here:

http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235

Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee

Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Thank you :)

They're driven inductively using an array of 64 tuned primaries and a
secondary coil in the base of each piece which directly feeds a C-W
multplier to produce around 180v.

Tony.

On Jun 21, 7:35 pm, jb-electronics 
wrote:
> Seriously: The coolest thing I have ever seen with Nixie tubes. How do
> you drive the tubes?
>
> Jens
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hi all,
>
> > Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
> > something nixie-based.
>
> > I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
> > growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
> > design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
> > couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
> > humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.
>
> > Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
> > found here:
>
> >http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235
>
> > Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
> > controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee
>
> > Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Thanks everyone for the positive comments, I'm not very good at
promoting things - maybe one of the reasons why I'm always redesigning
rather than finishing them.

I've added an extra photograph to the blog post showing the receiver
coil and multiplier circuit, only the cathode required is connected
leaving the rest unused. The assembled pieces have 3 pins to provide
more stability as they're not glued together, allowing a broken tube
to be unplugged and replaced if ever needed.

Technically it's reasonably simple to build but mostly monotonous due
to the amount of repetition in assembly.

Tony.

On Jun 21, 8:04 pm, Dalibor Farný  wrote:
> Wow, I simply don't understand! As Jens said, I haven't better nixie
> project!
>
> Do You have some technical info on your site?
>
> Dalibor
>
> 2012/6/21 kay486 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > This is absolutely amazing! How did you managed to power the tubes without
> > any risk?
>
> > On Thursday, June 21, 2012 7:30:38 PM UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:
>
> >> Hi all,
>
> >> Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
> >> something nixie-based.
>
> >> I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
> >> growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
> >> design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
> >> couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
> >> humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.
>
> >> Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
> >> found here:
>
> >>http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235
>
> >> Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
> >> controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee
>
> >> Tony.
>
> >>  --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "neonixie-l" group.
> > To view this discussion on the web, visit
> >https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/5VUa6axnUgsJ.
>
> > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > For more options, visit this group at
> >http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
> --
> Dalibor Farnyhttp://dalibor.farny.cz

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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Hi,

Much of the work is in cutting and machining the parts, if there is
enough interest I'd supply it as a kit though.

Tony.

On Jun 21, 8:22 pm, Dekatron42  wrote:
> Absolutely fantastic!
>
> This might actually get me to play chess again!
>
> Will you publish schematic drawing of this so it could be built?
>
> /Martin
>
> On Jun 21, 9:11 pm, Tony Adams  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Thank you :)
>
> > They're driven inductively using an array of 64 tuned primaries and a
> > secondary coil in the base of each piece which directly feeds a C-W
> > multplier to produce around 180v.
>
> > Tony.
>
> > On Jun 21, 7:35 pm, jb-electronics 
> > wrote:
>
> > > Seriously: The coolest thing I have ever seen with Nixie tubes. How do
> > > you drive the tubes?
>
> > > Jens
>
> > > > Hi all,
>
> > > > Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
> > > > something nixie-based.
>
> > > > I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
> > > > growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
> > > > design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
> > > > couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
> > > > humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.
>
> > > > Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
> > > > found here:
>
> > > >http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235
>
> > > > Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
> > > > controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee
>
> > > > Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

The chess timer idea did pop up at one point when it seemed it needed
more software, along with the idea of an extra 6 pieces with numeric
tubes that would be placed on the board to use it as a clock when it
wasn't in use for chess - but I managed to resist...;)

Tony.


On Jun 22, 12:14 am, Michel  wrote:
> Not really, we just make him work harder :-)
>
> Add some copper piping here and there and you got yourself an amazing
> steampunk chess game!
>
> Michel
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, June 22, 2012 9:03:01 AM UTC+10, OrangeGlow wrote:
>
> > Now you've done it!  He'll never finish it.  ;-)
>
> > Tom

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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

The driver circuits aren't that efficient though, I'd estimate the
nixies take about 10W and the board loses another 15W. If the edges
were made wider it would be possible to fit enough mh cells in for
maybe 2 hours or longer using Li.
As it stands though it can be fed from an external 12v battery, the
terminals are marked 'LT accumulator' though it's not very easy to see
in the videos.

Tony.

On Jun 22, 1:45 am, Michel  wrote:
> I think I would also try to let it run on rechargeable batteries and make
> it portable. I roughly estimated you need about 5W for all chess pieces
> which is not all that much. It only needs to operate for a few hours and
> when pieces disappear from the board, it will draw less power.
>
> Michel
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, June 22, 2012 10:32:14 AM UTC+10, Tony Adams wrote:
>
> > The chess timer idea did pop up at one point when it seemed it needed
> > more software, along with the idea of an extra 6 pieces with numeric
> > tubes that would be placed on the board to use it as a clock when it
> > wasn't in use for chess - but I managed to resist...;)
>
> > Tony.
>
> > On Jun 22, 12:14 am, Michel  wrote:
> > > Not really, we just make him work harder :-)
>
> > > Add some copper piping here and there and you got yourself an amazing
> > > steampunk chess game!
>
> > > Michel
>
> > > On Friday, June 22, 2012 9:03:01 AM UTC+10, OrangeGlow wrote:
>
> > > > Now you've done it!  He'll never finish it.  ;-)
>
> > > > Tom

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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Thank you, I was aiming for a 'vintage' look while still being
functional, though it might look good with some copper or brass pipe
railings around the edges to prevent pieces sliding off.

I'll have to work out a realisitc price for a kit, it would be
difficult to supply ready built at a sensible price due to the time it
takes to assemble - after winding 96 coils you'll see why ;).

Tony.

On Jun 21, 10:47 pm, Lucky  wrote:
> Kudos Tony, Kudos!
> and here was me looking at illuminating a glass chess set, this totally
> outshines that (Pun intended). The most novel application I have ever seen
> and being interested in the 'steampunk' genre right up my street.
> (I want one lol)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, 21 June 2012 20:36:01 UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:
>
> > Thanks everyone for the positive comments, I'm not very good at
> > promoting things - maybe one of the reasons why I'm always redesigning
> > rather than finishing them.
>
> > I've added an extra photograph to the blog post showing the receiver
> > coil and multiplier circuit, only the cathode required is connected
> > leaving the rest unused. The assembled pieces have 3 pins to provide
> > more stability as they're not glued together, allowing a broken tube
> > to be unplugged and replaced if ever needed.
>
> > Technically it's reasonably simple to build but mostly monotonous due
> > to the amount of repetition in assembly.
>
> > Tony.
>
> > On Jun 21, 8:04 pm, Dalibor Farný  wrote:
> > > Wow, I simply don't understand! As Jens said, I haven't better nixie
> > > project!
>
> > > Do You have some technical info on your site?
>
> > > Dalibor
>
> > > 2012/6/21 kay486 
>
> > > > This is absolutely amazing! How did you managed to power the tubes
> > without
> > > > any risk?
>
> > > > On Thursday, June 21, 2012 7:30:38 PM UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:
>
> > > >> Hi all,
>
> > > >> Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
> > > >> something nixie-based.
>
> > > >> I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
> > > >> growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely
> > new
> > > >> design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
> > > >> couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
> > > >> humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.
>
> > > >> Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
> > > >> found here:
>
> > > >>http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235
>
> > > >> Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
> > > >> controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a
> > Zigbee
>
> > > >> Tony.
>
> > > >>  --
> > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> > Groups
> > > > "neonixie-l" group.
> > > > To view this discussion on the web, visit
> > > >https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/5VUa6axnUgsJ.
>
> > > > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> > > > neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> > > > For more options, visit this group at
> > > >http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
>
> > > --
> > > Dalibor Farnyhttp://dalibor.farny.cz

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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

I'll try to reply to most of the pints in one post to prevent
cluttering the thread up, but first of all - you are all a bunch of
feature creeps! ;)

I did consider one large coil but couldn't see it being possible to
provide even coverage and avoid hotspots or overdriving the displays
if it wasn't fully loaded - it may be possible but I didn't explore
that.

Power efficiency, the loaded drivers deliver 70%+ of the input to the
display, the figures only look bad as unloaded they still use quite a
bit of power. Probably 10W could be saved by switching off the unused
squares but it adds to the complexity and would prevent another idea I
have from working.

Any kit will be exactly that, you'll be thrown a bunch of machined
paxolin discs and a roll of copper wire - reminds me of a clock case
'kit' I bought many years ago which consisted of some paper stencils
and 2 sheets of plywood. well it won't be that bad :).

As for modifications that would turn it into an electronic chess game
I've had the following ideas, along with a few hints offlist from
Dekatron42:
.
The base coils are currently driven in rows of eight, they're also fed
in rows of eight via 8x 2R2 fusible resistors. If I rearrange them to
be supplied in rows and driven in columns this should work:

The starting positions are known, or at least can be assumed.
The controller will need to keep a map of the piece positions and
track each movement.

When a piece is picked up or put down there is a change in current
through that row resistor, the controller can detect it then scan
through the columns to find out which square has changed. As all the
pieces are mapped it will know what was on that square and which
squares will be valid for it to reappear on.

When an increase is recorded across one of the resistors it can scan
again to see which square is now occupied. If it detects it's on a
valid square the game continues, if not it will stay in a loop waiting
for a legal move to be made or end the game depending on programming.

For the computer to make a move it will indicate it by only driving
the coil under the piece to be moved and the destination square.
As you know which moves are valid for that piece it will be easy to
find that square and the piece will light up. Again if it's not moved
to the correct square the controller can detect it and halt the game
until it is.

As all the pieces are mapped by the controller it doesn't need to
identify them and swapping them for another piece or attempting to
cheat will only halt the game or confuse the human player.

To make this work I'll need to change the current row/row arrangement
to row/column, add ADC lines from each resistor and add a 12v switch
to each row of 8 coils. It'll need a larger microcontroller and a few
spare pins will be needed to allow external programming. I really
don't want to end up bogged down with more modifications though so if
I do make these up as a kit I'd just supply the board with the above
mods, basic always-on software and a means to program it externally.
It's then up to the end user to do the rest.

- and chess piece Nixie tubes would be just incredible expecially if
they're made as plugin replacements.

Tony.


On Jun 22, 6:17 pm, jb-electronics 
wrote:
> Actually, I am just as well interested in the custom made chess Nixie
> tubes, Ron ;-)
>
> Jens
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Absolutely stunning!  I be interested in a kit
>
> > Sent from my iPhone

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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Just for fun, I'm working on it ;) A101s are a bit on the large side
though...

On Jun 23, 10:31 pm, threeneurons  wrote:
> That's just way too cool ! Spam all you want !
>
> On Thursday, June 21, 2012 11:30:38 AM UTC-7, Tony Adams wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
>
> > Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
> > something nixie-based.
>
> >http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235
>
> > Tony.
>
> Nixies and inductive power transfer. You can't make a better combo ...
> well, you could replace the kings with spinning dekatrons ... maybe !?

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[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Shameless plug time - hope you all won't mind too much.

I've finally listed kit options and prices, there are only 7 complete
kits available just now and I'd prefer to sell them to the first to
show interest so that will probably be to members here - so if you're
still interested in buying one could you contact me directly and I can
work out what order they should go out in.

http://www.lasermad.com/?p=319

Tony.


On Jun 24, 2:28 am, Gene Segal  wrote:
> Very impressive!  Where can I get one?  =)
> On Thursday, June 21, 2012 11:30:38 AM UTC-7, Tony Adams wrote:Hi all,
> Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
> something nixie-based.http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235
> Tony.
>
> Nixies and inductive power transfer. You can't make a better combo ... well, 
> you could replace the kings with spinning dekatrons ... maybe !?
>
>
>
>
>
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[neonixie-l] Re: IV tubes

[Tony Adams]

I'd love to find a few IV-2 tubes, no point in describing them you'll
have to see them :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PA4lsghN4HU

Others I know of not in that list:

IV-19 Top view Numitron
IV-28 Large single dot (VFD version of IN-28)

Anyone know of any more?.

Tony.


On Jul 6, 7:51 pm, kay486  wrote:
> Hi there, does somebody know what IV tubes are there? I would love to see a
> list with pictures or something like that.

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[neonixie-l] Re: IV tubes

[Tony Adams]

Sorry the IV29 is the large dot, the IV-28 is a flat multi digit 'VCR'
type display.

On Jul 6, 11:33 pm, Tony Adams  wrote:
> I'd love to find a few IV-2 tubes, no point in describing them you'll
> have to see them :)
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PA4lsghN4HU
>
> Others I know of not in that list:
>
> IV-19 Top view Numitron
> IV-28 Large single dot (VFD version of IN-28)
>
> Anyone know of any more?.
>
> Tony.
>
> On Jul 6, 7:51 pm, kay486  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hi there, does somebody know what IV tubes are there? I would love to see a
> > list with pictures or something like that.

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[neonixie-l] Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s

[Tony Adams]

Hi all,
I hope you won't mind me asking but I'm looking for a large quantity
of reject B7971s for a future project, a minimum of 32 but the more
the better, if I can find 64 that would be ideal.
I'm mostly interested in tubes with missing segments but would
consider hard to start as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or
gassy are no use - it needs to light up.
I know it's not going to be easy finding this many but with luck
eventually I should be able to put a set together.

Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s

[Tony Adams]

Ha :)

At atmospheric it's more a matter of breakdown voltage though any
remaining mercury vapour will lower it. A little too much UV I think
from those tubes, really prefer orange....

Tony.

On Sep 4, 7:55 pm, Adam Jacobs  wrote:
> I was thinking of that as well... What is the voltage needed to cause
> ionization in air?
>
> -Adam
>
> On 9/4/2012 11:48 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >> I'm mostly interested in tubes with missing segments but would
> >> consider hard to start as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or
> >> gassy are no use - it needs to light up.
> > You tempt me to take one of my cracked ones and hook it up to
> > several kilovolts - it'll light up.
>
> > - John

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[neonixie-l] Re: Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s

[Tony Adams]

Hi,
I know they're part of an ongoing dispute so I'll just have to wait
and see but wondered if any more might be out there as I'll still need
to find quite a few to make up 32.
64 probably wasn't going to happen but if you don't ask you never
know, I'll be happy with 32 and if anyone else ever wants a set I'll
just supply the parts and let them source their own tubes.
I really don't want to use good tubes for this though as it'll
encourage me to add more 'features' to make full use of them.

Tony.


On Sep 4, 7:54 pm, micha...@aol.com wrote:
> Tony,
>
> I may be able to help as I have at least 22 bad tubes.  Just need to
> decide on if I can get rid of them yet.
>
> Will start retesting shortly to find the ones that light up although I only
>  have a few that lit.  Will update you.
>
> Might be hard to find a person that has 64 (good or bad) let alone willing
> to give them up.  Heh.
>
> Michail
>
> In a message dated 9/4/2012 7:48:21 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>
> sa...@amt-electronics.com writes:
>
> Hi  all,
> I hope you won't mind me asking but I'm looking for a large  quantity
> of reject B7971s for a future project, a minimum of 32 but the  more
> the better, if I can find 64 that would be ideal.
> I'm mostly  interested in tubes with missing segments but would
> consider hard to start  as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or
> gassy are no use - it needs  to light up.
> I know it's not going to be easy finding this many but with  luck
> eventually I should be able to put a set  together.
>
> Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s

[Tony Adams]

I'd prefer not to say just yet, if it works as well as I hope then
it'll be public, otherwise It makes it easier to hide the embarassing
failure ;)

Tony.

On Sep 4, 10:39 pm, kay486  wrote:
> May i ask what exactly are you planing to do with them?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, September 4, 2012 9:15:03 PM UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> > I know they're part of an ongoing dispute so I'll just have to wait
> > and see but wondered if any more might be out there as I'll still need
> > to find quite a few to make up 32.
> > 64 probably wasn't going to happen but if you don't ask you never
> > know, I'll be happy with 32 and if anyone else ever wants a set I'll
> > just supply the parts and let them source their own tubes.
> > I really don't want to use good tubes for this though as it'll
> > encourage me to add more 'features' to make full use of them.
>
> > Tony.
>
> > On Sep 4, 7:54 pm, micha...@aol.com wrote:
> > > Tony,
>
> > > I may be able to help as I have at least 22 bad tubes.  Just need to
> > > decide on if I can get rid of them yet.
>
> > > Will start retesting shortly to find the ones that light up although I
> > only
> > >  have a few that lit.  Will update you.
>
> > > Might be hard to find a person that has 64 (good or bad) let alone
> > willing
> > > to give them up.  Heh.
>
> > > Michail
>
> > > In a message dated 9/4/2012 7:48:21 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>
> > > sa...@amt-electronics.com writes:
>
> > > Hi  all,
> > > I hope you won't mind me asking but I'm looking for a large  quantity
> > > of reject B7971s for a future project, a minimum of 32 but the  more
> > > the better, if I can find 64 that would be ideal.
> > > I'm mostly  interested in tubes with missing segments but would
> > > consider hard to start  as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or
> > > gassy are no use - it needs  to light up.
> > > I know it's not going to be easy finding this many but with  luck
> > > eventually I should be able to put a set  together.
>
> > > Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: How necessary are sockets?

[Tony Adams]

I have seen used IN-12 and 15s that have been soldered directly into
the PCB and I've done the same myself for prototype or experimental
purposes but for long term use I wouldn't want to put that much strain
on the seals.
The socket pins removed from standard D connectors will fit most tubes
if you have the patience to solder them individually to the PCB.

On Sep 11, 3:56 pm, Sean  wrote:
> What are the options for mounting nixie tubes that have the short pins
> instead of solderable wires if you don't have the matching sockets?

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[neonixie-l] Re: Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s

[Tony Adams]

Currently I'm still looking for another 10 plus a couple of spares,
buying them at full price wouldn't be worth it and be a waste of good
tubes to just sit there displaying a static pattern.

Tony.

On Oct 8, 6:02 pm, kay486  wrote:
> Keep your eye on this (im not realted to the auction 
> anyhow)http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-OF-20-LARGE-BURROUGHS-ULTRONIC-B-7971-NIX...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, 4 September 2012 15:48:19 UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> > I hope you won't mind me asking but I'm looking for a large quantity
> > of reject B7971s for a future project, a minimum of 32 but the more
> > the better, if I can find 64 that would be ideal.
> > I'm mostly interested in tubes with missing segments but would
> > consider hard to start as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or
> > gassy are no use - it needs to light up.
> > I know it's not going to be easy finding this many but with luck
> > eventually I should be able to put a set together.
>
> > Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s

[Tony Adams]

They'll sell for an equally huge price, plus even huger (;)) taxes so
no use for our project.

We have about 22-23 up to now so still looking for more, another 10
should be enough to build the first, then we just need another 32 for
the second....

Tony.


On Nov 30, 6:41 pm, kay486  wrote:
> another huge 
> auctionhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Nixie-Alphanumeric-Large-Vacuum-Tubes-B-7971-...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, 4 September 2012 15:48:19 UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> > I hope you won't mind me asking but I'm looking for a large quantity
> > of reject B7971s for a future project, a minimum of 32 but the more
> > the better, if I can find 64 that would be ideal.
> > I'm mostly interested in tubes with missing segments but would
> > consider hard to start as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or
> > gassy are no use - it needs to light up.
> > I know it's not going to be easy finding this many but with luck
> > eventually I should be able to put a set together.
>
> > Tony.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Wanted - a quantity of faulty B7971s

[Tony Adams]

When - or if - I find enough tubes and build it this will be the first 
place I post a link to the photos ;)

A seperate question though - are there any of the original ticker displays 
left intact or were they all scrapped?.

Tony.


On Friday, 30 November 2012 20:12:17 UTC, kay486 wrote:
>
> You still havent told us what are you building. Im really curious. 32 
> tubes for one *thing*
>
> On Friday, 30 November 2012 19:01:31 UTC, Tony Adams wrote:
>>
>> They'll sell for an equally huge price, plus even huger (;)) taxes so 
>> no use for our project. 
>>
>> We have about 22-23 up to now so still looking for more, another 10 
>> should be enough to build the first, then we just need another 32 for 
>> the second 
>>
>> Tony. 
>>
>>
>> On Nov 30, 6:41 pm, kay486  wrote: 
>> > another huge auctionhttp://
>> www.ebay.com/itm/Nixie-Alphanumeric-Large-Vacuum-Tubes-B-7971-... 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > 
>> > On Tuesday, 4 September 2012 15:48:19 UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote: 
>> > 
>> > > Hi all, 
>> > > I hope you won't mind me asking but I'm looking for a large quantity 
>> > > of reject B7971s for a future project, a minimum of 32 but the more 
>> > > the better, if I can find 64 that would be ideal. 
>> > > I'm mostly interested in tubes with missing segments but would 
>> > > consider hard to start as well as they may do what I need. Cracked or 
>> > > gassy are no use - it needs to light up. 
>> > > I know it's not going to be easy finding this many but with luck 
>> > > eventually I should be able to put a set together. 
>> > 
>> > > Tony. 
>>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Making tube sockets at home - sort of.

[Tony Adams]

I can machine phenolic laminate but finding time to is the problem... if 
it's only a small quantity I could probably do it if you can find suitable 
pins.

http://www.lasermad.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/DSCF5038-300x225.jpg

Tony.

On Tuesday, 15 January 2013 16:58:35 UTC, Tidak Ada wrote:
>
>  Sounds nice BUT just for a hydrogen filled EZ10A/B  it is essential 
> the pins undergo as less as possible stress by mounting the pins LOOSLY and 
> movable in the insulator.
> I think a sandwich construction, like at those old pertinax sockets, will 
> fulfil more to that need.
> Making a socket, either from thick pertinax or an other thermo hardened 
> material (Bakelite or an phenolic resin) by use of a CNC driven tool will 
> make a perfect socket it you can find contacts that have enough difference 
> in diameter (a collar) to get hold.
> Who can help machining the parts ???
>  
> eric
>  --
>  *From:* neoni...@googlegroups.com  [mailto:
> neoni...@googlegroups.com ] *On Behalf Of *Quixotic Nixotic
> *Sent:* dinsdag 15 januari 2013 17:19
> *To:* neoni...@googlegroups.com 
> *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] Making tube sockets at home - sort of.
>
>  On 15 Jan 2013, at 15:50, mjrippe wrote:
>
> In case anyone has NOT heard of 3D printing, you can use it to make almost 
> any sort of plastic part.  One at a time, rather slowly.  But for those 
> unobtainable bits, it is perfect.  Some clever fellow has started making 
> their own tube sockets.  Kinda pointless for 7 pin miniatures, but would be 
> nice for EZ10A sockets!  Read about it here:
> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/neonixie-l
>
>
> It seems a bit over time-consuming to me.
>
> I've made great IN 18 sockets by using the plastic middle of an old 
> adhesive roll glued around some pins to suit my pin receptacles. Melt some 
> polymorph in a cup of hot water from the kettle and squidge it into the 
> roll around the pins. When set, in about a minute, pull the pins out and 
> put your receptacles in - I used crimp ones from a D socket.
>
> If you need a mounting flange, that is easy too, just melt some more 
> polymorph, maybe roll it out flat, reheat one edge a bit and stick it to 
> the sides of your new socket. Trim to shape with an X-Acto knife or 
> scalpel. Polymorph will drill quite well.
>
> John S
>
>
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>  
>  
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Anybody want to build some nixie tubes?

[Tony Adams]

OK I'll jump in with a few points...

1, The price. From my dealings with this seller their idea of an offer
will be $100 less than asking. (OK maybe free shipping).

2. Extra costs. If I could afford to pay that and brought them to the
UK there would be an extra 20% tax to pay - the price is now over
$50k.

3. Quantities. I read it as enough of some parts to make 1,000 tubes
and of others for 10,000. No sign of cathodes so there may not be
enough ot assemble even 1 without extra materials.

4. Knowhow. How long will it take, even with data/manuals (In Russian,
probably added/changed as production improved and written by engineers
for their own use..) to make a tube you could guarantee for 10+
years of life?.

5. Legality. IN-18s have a Mercury pill, in this country at least I
don't see a chance of having their manufacture approved.

There's some interesting bits there but a very long way from a turnkey
nixie plant, which is what you'd need to justify the price though
if I had a spare million I'd be tempted ;).

Tony.


On Feb 20, 11:21 am, Nick  wrote:
> Yup - including the shipping, its not attractive. Note that all that
> fragile glass packed into rather feeble cardboard boxes has to make it to
> you in whatever country you are in, without breakage.
>
> Face it - what are you actually buying here? Part of (certainly not all) of
> a factory line that made IN-18s. Big deal. That's not the problem - the
> expertise is - neon equipment, spot welders, glass tempering etc. is common
> and understood. The bags of ceramic beads etc. are useful, but not worth a
> huge amount. The "special metal" is what exactly? Are the
> wire-forming machines there? All the digits (and the decimal points)? The
> anode screen punches? Nowadays the digits etc. would probably be formed by
> an alternative technique - the Russians were expert at using what they had
> available to the best effect, but in the 30 or 40 years since this
> equipment was first commissioned, manufacturing techniques have moved on.
>
> Maybe USD 10,000 including shipping would be almost OK, but 40K?
>
> Certainly doesn't work for me :)
>
> Nick
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, 20 February 2013 10:35:57 UTC, Nixcited delighted wrote:
> > So a best case scenario is you get 10,000 nixies at the end of the
> > day. For all the heartache of making them you have paid $4.348 before
> > adding the cost of the magic smoke, the compressor, hand press etc
> > etc. If you only get the lowest estimate of 1,000 tubes, you will
> > have paid $43.48 each, but probably double that.
>
> > Does it work for you?
>
> > John S

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[neonixie-l] Re: Sourcing Large Quantities of 5870s Nixies

[Tony Adams]

Have a look at the current ebay prices of IN-7 nixies for an
example...

I have a design that was completed late last year but have no
intention of announcing it until I've managed to buy enough tubes at a
reasonable price. One seller I approached for a quote increased their
ebay listing price of the tube I was interested in by 50% within 5
minutes of my enquiry.

It's a sellers market and will only get worse as supplies dry up.

On Mar 14, 3:04 am, Terry Kennedy  wrote:
> On Mar 13, 4:55 pm, Adam Jacobs  wrote:
>
> > I think that (based on the current supply of nixies), if I was to design
> > and build a new clock right now I would use IN-12's.
>
> Deciding on the desired tube, buying up available stocks, and _then_
> announcing the new clock is probably the best way to go. Look at what
> happened to the price of IV-4/IV-17 displays when the IV-17
> Smartsocket was announced - the price per tube jumped from $1.50-ish
> to $4-$8 per tube, and that's without an ongoing supply of Smartsocket
> boards to drive them.

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[neonixie-l] Re: Burrough B-7094, B-8091, ZM1200, ZM1206 in eBay auction!

[Tony Adams]

Big tubes are insane these days, $2995 wouldn't surprise me

On Mar 29, 5:02 pm, westdave  wrote:
> Burrough B-7094, B-8091, ZM1200, ZM1206 in eBay auction!
>
> westdave thinks they will go to $2600 usd
>
> we will find out in five days
> what.am.i.bid? the prize is an ne51 for the closest bid

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[neonixie-l] Help needed with taylor 1363 smps

[Tony P]

Hello all and greetings from a new member and first time poster,I'm trying 
to figure out how to use these little 1363 smps from taylor electronic,I've 
tried using it in this configuration "always on",I'm using a 9vdc 1000ma 
wallwart and have the +(plus) wire going to Vn and enable and the -(minus) 
wire going to ground but I get nothing out of  the HV out,can anyone with 
expierience with these please for the sake of my sanity please show/tell me 
how I get these things to work,it looks simple but I just can't get it to 
work,thanks much in advance

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[neonixie-l] Re: Datasheet request for Burroughs CD60531-CM

[Tony Mueller]

Dylan - Did you find a datasheet for this display? I bought one off of eBay 
thinking it'd be easy enough to figure out, but any help would be 
appreciated!

Thanks - Tony 

On Wednesday, September 12, 2012 6:56:11 PM UTC-5, William Lee wrote:
>
> Hi all-
>
> Does anyone happen to have a datasheet handy for a Burroughs CD60531-CM 
> panaplex display?
>  
> Thanks,
> Dylan
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: IV-17 tube filament voltage difference (DC drive)

[Tony Adams]

If you can increase the anode voltages enough to get the dimmest displays 
up to an acceptable brightness you could cheat and PWM the brighter 
displays to balance the brightness in software. Depends if you can get an 
acceptably high voltage on the centre tube anodes/grid to counteract the 
12v you have on the filament.

On Wednesday, 11 November 2015 21:12:42 UTC, Chaos Hydra wrote:
>
> Hello guys, I made an IV -17 display panel. I made the filaments five in 
> series and put them under 12VDC to get a 2.4VDC filament voltage.
> The problem is, there is a voltage difference between each tube's filament 
> as the one closer to ground goes up to 3.2VDC and the one close to 12V gets 
> to 1.6 VDC.
> As you can see in the video, the ones on the outside are much brighter 
> (close to ground).  youtube video here. 
>
> So is there anything I can do to fix the problem here? I made PCB already, 
> so there is no way I can switch to AC now. Thanks for the help!
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Take a look at this....

[Tony Adams]

The only photoshopping was to touch up dust spots and colour balance, the 
height is real and you're welcome to come and look at one in operation.

On Thursday, 21 July 2016 19:39:12 UTC+1, gregebert wrote:
>
> Are any of you suspicious about the levitation height in the picture ? My 
> gut feeling is perhaps a few millimeters with a strong magnetic field. I 
> have a pair of circular magnetron magnets, and I can get roughly the height 
> pictured, but my magnet is much lighter than a nixie clock.
>
> One can only guess how much photoshop work is done for kickstarter 
> campaigns.
>

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[neonixie-l] Re: Take a look at this....

[Tony Adams]

Thanks for the comments everyone. A serious question though, would anyone 
consider it worth adding an IN-8-2 option for example? I'd expected anyone 
wanting a good looking nixie would have gone for Dalibor's tube but sadly 
it hasn't been as popular as I'd hoped.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Take a look at this....

[Tony Adams]

5-600mA at 12V so around 6-7W allowing for PSU efficiency.

On Thursday, 21 July 2016 22:32:23 UTC+1, Tidak Ada wrote:
>
> Any idea about the power consumtion?
>
> For some years I got the idea to build a digital clock working with 
> relay’s.
>
> Calculating the power consumption let me decide to stop the project.
>
> A clock isn’t only a conversation piece It has to be a reliable time 
> indicator for 24/7
>
>  
>
> eric
>
>  
>
> *Van:* neoni...@googlegroups.com  [mailto:
> neoni...@googlegroups.com ] *Namens *Quixotic Nixotic
> *Verzonden:* donderdag 21 juli 2016 19:37
> *Aan:* neoni...@googlegroups.com 
> *Onderwerp:* Re: [neonixie-l] Take a look at this
>
>  
>
>  
>
> On 21 Jul 2016, at 16:43, Nicholas Stock wrote:
>
>
>
>
> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/lasermad/time-flies-levitating-nixie-clock
>
>  
>
> I've seen one or two of my nixie clocks levitate, but only when my wife 
> has decided to clean my work table and has moved an unhoused example. It's 
> usually followed by some robust Anglo-Saxon. A small price to pay and it 
> does not cost £35,000.
>
>  
>
> John S
>
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> .
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Re: [neonixie-l] Upside-down nixies

[Tony Adams]

Each digit has a small 'tail' with a round pad for the spot weld. It might 
be possible to make a small batch with an alternative used to attach a wire 
to the 'top' of the digit, maybe very small thin eyelet terminals 
sandwiched in the stack under each digit.

On Tuesday, 14 November 2017 22:01:49 UTC, Pramanicin wrote:
>
> Don't think it's as straightforward as that as the contacts for each 
> number are at the bottom of the digit...
>
> http://dalibor.farny.cz/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/IMG_0006.jpg
>
> On Tue, Nov 14, 2017 at 1:49 PM, Paul Andrews  > wrote:
>
>> Eh? Am I missing something here? Just mount them all upside down. In your 
>> head imagine: pull the numbers off their mounts, rotate the tube 180 
>> degrees, put the numbers back in their mounts. Now you have the pins at the 
>> top and all the numbers look just like they did before.
>>
>> On Nov 14, 2017, at 4:20 PM, Terry S > 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Correct, just like the Russian 2, invert & flip to create a really bad 5. 
>> Or is it the other way around?
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 14, 2017 at 3:07:45 PM UTC-6, Pramanicin wrote:
>>>
>>> Would it? You can just flip it around(he says doing some painful 
>>> mental gymnastics...)
>>>
>>> On Tue, Nov 14, 2017 at 12:38 PM, gregebert  wrote:
>>>
 Gotcha!   '3' would look like a garbled 'E'  so it would also need to 
 be rebuilt.


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[neonixie-l] Re: mason jar numitrons

[Tony Adams]

I did play with these about 3 years ago, since then shorter filament strips 
have become available for half-segments.

(my first attempt at attching a photo here).

On Tuesday, 23 January 2018 15:04:25 UTC, Paul Andrews wrote:
>
> Love this: https://youtu.be/JUFx7mmOjXw
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] What is this tube ?

[Tony Adams]

6E2 'magic eye' tubes driven to produce a colon?. Very neat but power
hungry and short lived I'd expect.

On Sun, Feb 12, 2023 at 10:44 AM Benoit Tourret 
wrote:

> Ok ok...
> It doesn't seems to be a regular item...
>
> It must surely be Chinese, the lack of clues and evidence brings us there
> with force.
> Whatever the top of the tubes made me look towards Nec.
>
> Wait & See...
> Le jeudi 9 février 2023 à 22:37:06 UTC+1, Tidak Ada a écrit :
>
>> IO guess a VFD zero-indicator and a VFD level indicator….
>>
>>
>>
>> eric
>>
>>
>>
>> *Van:* neoni...@googlegroups.com [mailto:neoni...@googlegroups.com] *Namens
>> *Audrey
>> *Verzonden:* donderdag 9 februari 2023 22:20
>> *Aan:* neoni...@googlegroups.com
>> *Onderwerp:* Re: [neonixie-l] What is this tube ?
>>
>>
>>
>> Probably chinese bargraph vfd tubes, they seem to be very rare. I've
>> attached some pictures of similar tubes.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Feb 9, 2023, 3:48 PM Benoit Tourret  wrote:
>>
>> Hello, I wonder what are the two tubes between the digits ???[image:
>> Capture d’écran 2023-02-09 214402.png]
>>
>> the picture is from aliexpress, so there is no informations...
>>
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[neonixie-l] Re: Urwerk SpaceTime Blade clock

[Tony Adams]

Hmmm

[image: WhatsApp Image 2024-04-08 at 17.26.44.jpeg]
On Sunday 7 April 2024 at 09:52:56 UTC+1 Robert wrote:

>
> https://www.ablogtowatch.com/new-release-urwerk-spacetime-blade-nixie-tube-clock/
>
>
> Rob
>

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