Re: [neonixie-l] Video Tipps for Nixie Clocks...

[JohnK]

Well, the programs just make dodging, burning, fading, silver mask jobs etc 
easier.
Nothing wrong with using all the tools - there are some subjects that can't be 
photographed well enough no matter what the photographer's skills.
Just because air-brushing was overused doesn't outlaw it.

Face it - even use of a polariser IS cheating. 

Actually, it all comes back to the specification for the print/photograph. What 
did the customer require?

John K
[PS. both glad and sad not to be splashing around anymore]
  - Original Message - 
  From: Roddy Scott 
  To: neonixie-l 
  Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2017 7:19 AM
  Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Video Tipps for Nixie Clocks...




NeonJohn wrote:


  One final comment.  I may be old-fashioned but anything that can be 
  fixed in a photo editor is a mistake made by the photographer.


  I agree 100%! 


  Too many so called 'photographs' are the result of hours of manipulation and 
do not reflect photography skills but rather computer skills.


  The only thing I do to mine is crop them.


  In regards to the issue of the topic, I would think that bracket 
photographing is an easy way to fix an image if you shoot in RAW then you could 
layer 2 shots together to get a better result but then again that is 
manipulation :-)





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Re: [neonixie-l] Video Tipps for Nixie Clocks...

[Roddy Scott]

  NeonJohn wrote:

One final comment.  I may be old-fashioned but anything that can be 
fixed in a photo editor is a mistake made by the photographer.

I agree 100%! 

Too many so called 'photographs' are the result of hours of manipulation 
and do not reflect photography skills but rather computer skills.

The only thing I do to mine is crop them.

In regards to the issue of the topic, I would think that bracket 
photographing is an easy way to fix an image if you shoot in RAW then you 
could layer 2 shots together to get a better result but then again that is 
manipulation :-)

>
>
>

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Re: [neonixie-l] Video Tipps for Nixie Clocks...

[NeonJohn]

On 04/11/2017 06:14 PM, gregebert wrote:
> I encountered problems with light reflecting off the nixies, and it also 
> washed-out the glow, so I thought the solution was to photograph in 
> low-light. Attempting low-light photography led to annoying reflections of 
> light from adjacent tubes. The picture I use for my icon from my big clock* 
> looks* horrible, but the clock itself looks amazing. After several 
> different exposure settings and lighting conditions I was not able to get a 
> 'perfect shot'. I concluded I would need to use photoshop, etc to get 
> something acceptable.

This is the pro solution

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dulling-Spray-11-Ounces/24419272?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1453&adid=227025898045&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=52337137695&wl4=pla-79434469695&wl5=21160&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112550049&wl11=online&wl12=24419272&wl13=&veh=sem

This is an aerosol spray that applies a slightly dulling coating to the
object.  It doesn't completely dry and is easily wiped off with a cloth
afterwards or for inaccessible places, blown off with an air hose.

A second option is to use a polarizing filter.  If you plan on using
your auto-focus then a less effective circular polarized filter must be
used.  If you can manually focus then a linear polarized filter will
provide a much greater extinction ratio (ratio of light passed to light
blocked).

Glare is always polarized.  You might find a circular filter does an
adequate job.  If not, focus is achieved and then a linear polarized
filter is held in front of the lens and rotated until the glare disappears.

Hand-holding the filter can be done but becomes tedious if many photos
are to be shot.  I haven't found a ready-made holder for point and shoot
cameras so I made my own.

It's very simple - a length of aluminum flat stock drilled and tapped
for 1/4-20 on one end.  This goes between the tripod and camera and
generally requires an extended tripod bolt.

The other end is bent up 90 deg and trimmed until it just barely
disappears from the camera's image.  It should almost touch the lens
when the lens is fully extended.

Here's the trick.  Choose a filter diameter large enough to cover the
whole image when zoomed in and out.  Then buy a haze filter of the same
diameter.  That's about the cheapest thing you can get in that diameter.

Break the glass out of the haze filter.  What's left is a ring with the
proper male and female threads. This ring is epoxied to the aluminum
after the stock is curved with a dremel tool to fit the OD of the haze
filter.

Now simply thread the polarizing filter into the mount and it's done.
You can rotate the filter on its threads to see if the effects change.

One final comment.  I may be old-fashioned but anything that can be
fixed in a photo editor is a mistake made by the photographer.  I'm not
talking about the high end stuff such as slenderizing a model's arms or
giving her bigger boobs.  I'm talking about stuff that pre-digital would
be considered bad technique.

Get it right in the original exposure and photo editing won't be
necessary except for cropping.

John


-- 
John DeArmond
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
http://www.tnduction.com<-- THE source for induction heaters
http://www.neon-john.com<-- email from here
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Re: [neonixie-l] Video Tipps for Nixie Clocks...

[John Rehwinkel]

> I encountered problems with light reflecting off the nixies, and it also 
> washed-out the glow, so I thought the solution was to photograph in low-light.

Light reflections you can improve by using polarizers.  Sometimes light boxes 
and diffusers aren't the way to go (you get bigger reflections that way), it 
depends on the look you're after.

> Attempting low-light photography led to annoying reflections of light from 
> adjacent tubes.

It's a balancing act (polarizers will help here too, but not as much).

> The picture I use for my icon from my big clock looks horrible, but the clock 
> itself looks amazing. After several different exposure settings and lighting 
> conditions I was not able to get a 'perfect shot'. I concluded I would need 
> to use photoshop, etc to get something acceptable.

You may have to build a composite photo to get it to look just right.  That's 
how they got the Enterprise to look so good in Star Trek (before they went to 
CGI): they'd do a model pass in normal light, then a highlight pass in the dark 
to get the accent lights (and sometimes a few other passes for certain 
details), then combine them.  My sweetie worked at a photo lab for years doing 
product photography, including hard-to-photograph things like circuit boards 
and glassware.  If you like, I can ask her for suggestions, but I doubt she's 
worked with nixies before (I could fire up a nixie project for her to play 
with, I suppose).

- John

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Re: [neonixie-l] Video Tipps for Nixie Clocks...

[gregebert]

I encountered problems with light reflecting off the nixies, and it also 
washed-out the glow, so I thought the solution was to photograph in 
low-light. Attempting low-light photography led to annoying reflections of 
light from adjacent tubes. The picture I use for my icon from my big clock* 
looks* horrible, but the clock itself looks amazing. After several 
different exposure settings and lighting conditions I was not able to get a 
'perfect shot'. I concluded I would need to use photoshop, etc to get 
something acceptable.

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Re: [neonixie-l] Video Tipps for Nixie Clocks...

[John Rehwinkel]

> 
> Sadly i have more luck with making decent pictures of tubes than making a 
> video. Most of my videos came either too bright (nixie tubes where very 
> yellow to white in color) or too dark (tubes look fine, case and background 
> are very dark). 
> 

This is a fairly simple problem with a fairly simple solution: the issue is 
that the nixie tubes are brighter than the case and background.  The solution 
is to make the case and background brighter, which you can do by putting more 
light on them.  Set them near a window, or aim a desk lamp at them.  Adjust the 
brightness (how close and how bright the light source is) until there's a nice 
balance between the tubes and the case.

- John


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Re: [neonixie-l] Video Tipps for Nixie Clocks...

[robin bussell]

On 11/04/2017 18:16, SWISSNIXIE - Jonathan F. wrote:

Hi Folks


I have built my first complete nixie clock and mostly done the V1.0 Code
:) Since the features of a clock are hard to show in pictures or text, i
wanted to make a video of the clock.  My clock looks like this
http://swissnixie.com/projects/SUNIX-S/SUNIX_S_ARTICLE.jpg

Sadly i have more luck with making decent pictures of tubes than making
a video. Most of my videos came either too bright (nixie tubes where
very yellow to white in color) or too dark (tubes look fine, case and
background are very dark).

Does someone has usefull ideas, tipps,tricks about shooting videos of
nixie clocks? I'm having a CANON 5D that can shoot video.


Any help is welcome! :))



Maybe you need to look into HDR video?

This page:
https://photography.tutsplus.com/tutorials/what-is-hdr-video-3-ways-to-create-high-dynamic-range-video--cms-25884

Mentions some success with custom canon firmware from here:

http://www.magiclantern.fm/

And a tutorial here: 
http://cgi.tutsplus.com/tutorials/a-simple-way-to-shoot-hdr-video-footage-using-magic-lantern--ae-20993


However I'm just a google pilot as far as this is concerned so good luck!

Cheers,
 Robin.






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