RE: [old-chevy-truck] Voltage Reducer
Your accessory voltage reducer is nothing more than a large carbon pile resistor. The way it drops voltage is by dissipating heat. Keep that thing away from anything you don't want to melt. A few on the list have provided good suggestions: measure the voltage to see where you are. The advantage to the resistor you have is that if it decided to fail, it pushes the carbon pile out the end - no catastrophic failure to do any damage. Another option is to look in a FLAPS heater motor catalog and find an exact, 12V replacement (mounting posts and shaft length/diameter) for your 6 volt motor. That's what I did on my 50 to eliminate the need for an external resistor and nobody can tell the difference by looking. A $35 job back then. Note that your two speed heater switch does the same thing as your accessory voltage reducer - it has a resistor in line for the low speed. Perhaps a motivation to get the correct motor in your heater box. Given you have converted everything else to 12v, there seems to be little motivation to keep the original heater motor. A stock tube radio on the other hand, is another story. Your accessory voltage reducer would not work very well (I'll bet you it would eventually fail in short order). I used a LARGE heat dissipating ceramic resistor with my tube radio for that job. And it gets way too hot to touch because as someone mentioned, the radio draws oodles more amperage than the heater motor. FYI, if you do have a radio and have converted to 12v, you can replace the power supply vibrator in the radio with choice 1) a solid state vibrator for more stable output (that's what I did) or choice 2) they now make a solid state vibrator that allows for 12v input. Even a better option to get rid of that hot resistor. Some modification is needed, though (like changing the face light bulbs to 12v). Good luck. Allen '50 3100 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of fahrbach51 [mfahrb...@hughes.net] Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 7:56 AM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Voltage Reducer Help for the limited of knowledge, please. After converting my 1951 3600 to 12-volt, and with the onset of another Kansas winter, I've decided to make ready the dealer-installed recirculating heater. After replacing the hoses and running through some magic radiator sealer, I believe the core will hold. Now to the 6-volt fan motor. I purchased, from Classic Parts of America, part #24-996 Accessory Voltage Reducer which is supposed to reduce the voltage for radios or heaters. I have no reason to advertise for them, I mention it only in case someone wants to look up that part and see what I have. I powered the heater fan switch directly from the ignition switch, and wired the reducer between the post on the switch and the fan motor, and the switch will power the motor at all 3 speeds, but I don't believe it is reducing any voltage. I swear the fan is spinning fast enough to move the pickup forward, and I'm just certain it is receiving too much voltage. Also, th! e reducer gets very hot. Any advice appreciated on whether I'm installing the reducer incorrectly? I don't want to burn up this 60 year old motor, and also wonder if it isn't wiser to part with $65 and buy a 12-volt motor? And most importantly, my heartfelt gratitude goes out to all Veterans, living and parted, who have sacrificed to make our homes and families safe. There are more of us than you know who do not take your gift to us for granted. Fahrbach '51 3600 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 49 Driver window glass removal.
Wish I could find a thread with photos or even a video that would show me step by step for door window glass removal. Mine has the window vents as well. Fahrbach 1951 3600 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Kent S. Butler kent_butler@... wrote: Try your local Ace Hardware store. I have had good luck finding one off items like clutch head bits. Good Luck Kent S Butler '56 Chev 3100 Houston, TX  From: ksfarmmer rsims2@... To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sat, November 10, 2012 10:00:41 AM Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 49 Driver window glass removal.  Thanks Mark. Guess, I misspoke... mis-typed. Clutch head is what I had meant to type. I just haven't found one that is that small. Guess I need to just keep looking. And hope they come out when I get the correct size driver. Otherwise, it is not going to be fun. --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, ccpanel ccpanel@ wrote: They are called CLUTCH HEAD screws and teh very specialized drivers can be found on the tool trucks, sometiems at FLAPS and sometimes at napa. all can be ordered online from everywhere from Amazon to all teh classic chevy vendors. Mark --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, ksfarmmer rsims2@ wrote: I have checked the archives on replacing window glass and although there is a lot a good info, I haven't found anything on how to remove the screws that hold the glass on to the operating mechanisms. I noted a post by Nate calling them barrel screws that are easy to ruin. I can't figure out how to remove these screws. They look like what I would call pan head screws, but the smallest pan head screwdriver that I have found is still too big for these screws. All even if I find a screwdriver that fits, it doesn't look promising for those screws to come out very easily. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have had the glass setting in garage for far too long now. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: Voltage Reducer
All the help is so appreciated. At least I know the reducer is supposed to get hot, and although I will likely go ahead and order a 12v motor, I can at least feel okay about hooking up to this reducer and get some heat for now. I did read somewhere a recommendation to mount the reducer inside the heater unit case. Guess that makes sense since if it gonna throw off heat, it just as well be in there. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge. Fahrbach 1951 3600 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Allen Jones jonesal@... wrote: Your accessory voltage reducer is nothing more than a large carbon pile resistor. The way it drops voltage is by dissipating heat. Keep that thing away from anything you don't want to melt. A few on the list have provided good suggestions: measure the voltage to see where you are. The advantage to the resistor you have is that if it decided to fail, it pushes the carbon pile out the end - no catastrophic failure to do any damage. Another option is to look in a FLAPS heater motor catalog and find an exact, 12V replacement (mounting posts and shaft length/diameter) for your 6 volt motor. That's what I did on my 50 to eliminate the need for an external resistor and nobody can tell the difference by looking. A $35 job back then. Note that your two speed heater switch does the same thing as your accessory voltage reducer - it has a resistor in line for the low speed. Perhaps a motivation to get the correct motor in your heater box. Given you have converted everything else to 12v, there seems to be little motivation to keep the original heater motor. A stock tube radio on the other hand, is another story. Your accessory voltage reducer would not work very well (I'll bet you it would eventually fail in short order). I used a LARGE heat dissipating ceramic resistor with my tube radio for that job. And it gets way too hot to touch because as someone mentioned, the radio draws oodles more amperage than the heater motor. FYI, if you do have a radio and have converted to 12v, you can replace the power supply vibrator in the radio with choice 1) a solid state vibrator for more stable output (that's what I did) or choice 2) they now make a solid state vibrator that allows for 12v input. Even a better option to get rid of that hot resistor. Some modification is needed, though (like changing the face light bulbs to 12v). Good luck. Allen '50 3100 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of fahrbach51 [mfahrbach@...] Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 7:56 AM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Voltage Reducer Help for the limited of knowledge, please. After converting my 1951 3600 to 12-volt, and with the onset of another Kansas winter, I've decided to make ready the dealer-installed recirculating heater. After replacing the hoses and running through some magic radiator sealer, I believe the core will hold. Now to the 6-volt fan motor. I purchased, from Classic Parts of America, part #24-996 Accessory Voltage Reducer which is supposed to reduce the voltage for radios or heaters. I have no reason to advertise for them, I mention it only in case someone wants to look up that part and see what I have. I powered the heater fan switch directly from the ignition switch, and wired the reducer between the post on the switch and the fan motor, and the switch will power the motor at all 3 speeds, but I don't believe it is reducing any voltage. I swear the fan is spinning fast enough to move the pickup forward, and I'm just certain it is receiving too much voltage. Also, th! e reducer gets very hot. Any advice appreciated on whether I'm installing the reducer incorrectly? I don't want to burn up this 60 year old motor, and also wonder if it isn't wiser to part with $65 and buy a 12-volt motor? And most importantly, my heartfelt gratitude goes out to all Veterans, living and parted, who have sacrificed to make our homes and families safe. There are more of us than you know who do not take your gift to us for granted. Fahrbach '51 3600 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
[old-chevy-truck] Re : 49 Driver window glass removal.
I don't know: This is one of those things I allowed The Glass Shop to do for me as I was rorried I'd ruin them , as it turned out , theyhad new ones and replaced them . -Nate ksfarmmer (? WHO ?) wrote : I have checked the archives on replacing window glass and although there is a lot a good info, I haven't found anything on how to remove the screws that hold the glass on to the operating mechanisms. I noted a post by Nate calling them barrel screws that are easy to ruin. I can't figure out how to remove these screws. They look like what I would call pan head screws, but the smallest pan head screwdriver that I have found is still too big for these screws. All even if I find a screwdriver that fits, it doesn't look promising for those screws to come out very easily. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have had the glass setting in garage for far too long now. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 49 Driver window glass removal.
He's talking about the Barrel Screws holding the window glass frame to - gether , not Clutch Head Screws here. -Nate mark wrote : They are called CLUTCH HEAD screws and teh very specialized drivers can be found on the tool trucks, sometiems at FLAPS and sometimes at napa. all can be ordered online from everywhere from Amazon to all teh classic chevy vendors. Mark --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, ksfarmmer rsims2@ wrote: I have checked the archives on replacing window glass and although there is a lot a good info, I haven't found anything on how to remove the screws that hold the glass on to the operating mechanisms. I noted a post by Nate calling them barrel screws that are easy to ruin. I can't figure out how to remove these screws. They look like what I would call pan head screws, but the smallest pan head screwdriver that I have found is still too big for these screws. All even if I find a screwdriver that fits, it doesn't look promising for those screws to come out very easily. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have had the glass setting in garage for far too long now. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 49 Driver window glass removal.
I Googled chevrolet truck door glass removal Doo the same and youll get more results. Bill in Oregon How http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=523789 does one remove door glass and replace it? 52 ...ý - 5 posts - May 9, 2012 1951 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=521012 Chevy Pickup Glass - The 1947 - Present ...ý - 6 posts - Apr 22, 2012 One-piece http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=519021 door glass conversion in '53 Chevy truck ...ý - 6 posts - Apr 11, 2012 Bowtiebandits http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=83475 window regulator swap instructions. - The ...ý - 6 posts - Jan 1, 2004 _ From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of fahrbach51 Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 6:24 AM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 49 Driver window glass removal. Wish I could find a thread with photos or even a video that would show me step by step for door window glass removal. Mine has the window vents as well. Fahrbach 1951 3600 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re : Push Starting
No Tom ; You are not =8-) . My first car upon moving to California was a 1960 VW # 117 DeLuxe Beetle , it had NO BATTERY so I had to push start it everywhere I went for most of a year Two resistors in series , will help reduce you fan's overspeeding . I have a brand new unused 12 volt fan motor for the DeLuxe heater , $50 delivered to your door if you'd like . -Nate Tom wrote : I dunno Bill. If we are talking a 6V radio, then we are likely talking vintage radio with vacuum tubes. They drew tons of current. I think the best bet here is a dropping resistor. To figure the value of that resistor it is best to actually measure the current draw of the radio while it is hooked up to a 6V power source. I remember how quickly leaving the radio on could deplete the battery back in the day. Stop at the local tavern for a beer and leave the radio on, and you would come out and your car wouldn't start. Then you would have to go back into the tavern and drag 4 or 5 customers out to push start you. Jeez I hope I an not the only one here old enough to remember doing that kind of stuff all the time ;^) Tom Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 49 Driver window glass removal.
I have progressed to the point that I removed the window vent frame assembly, and manuevered the door glass out of the door. The glass is wedged in a metal channel piece. I have tugged on it, guarded so I don't cut off any fingers, but can't seem to budge it. I think at this point I will run the broken glass still in the channel and my replacement glass into the body shop and ask them to make the switch. Fahrbach 1951 3600 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Nate vwnate1@... wrote: He's talking about the Barrel Screws holding the window glass frame to - gether , not Clutch Head Screws here. -Nate mark wrote : They are called CLUTCH HEAD screws and teh very specialized drivers can be found on the tool trucks, sometiems at FLAPS and sometimes at napa. all can be ordered online from everywhere from Amazon to all teh classic chevy vendors. Mark --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, ksfarmmer rsims2@ wrote: I have checked the archives on replacing window glass and although there is a lot a good info, I haven't found anything on how to remove the screws that hold the glass on to the operating mechanisms. I noted a post by Nate calling them barrel screws that are easy to ruin. I can't figure out how to remove these screws. They look like what I would call pan head screws, but the smallest pan head screwdriver that I have found is still too big for these screws. All even if I find a screwdriver that fits, it doesn't look promising for those screws to come out very easily. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have had the glass setting in garage for far too long now. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: Re : Push Starting
Nate: Please email me and we can discuss the fan motor. Thanks Fahrbach 1951 3600 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Nate vwnate1@... wrote: No Tom ; You are not =8-) . My first car upon moving to California was a 1960 VW # 117 DeLuxe Beetle , it had NO BATTERY so I had to push start it everywhere I went for most of a year Two resistors in series , will help reduce you fan's overspeeding . I have a brand new unused 12 volt fan motor for the DeLuxe heater , $50 delivered to your door if you'd like . -Nate Tom wrote : I dunno Bill. If we are talking a 6V radio, then we are likely talking vintage radio with vacuum tubes. They drew tons of current. I think the best bet here is a dropping resistor. To figure the value of that resistor it is best to actually measure the current draw of the radio while it is hooked up to a 6V power source. I remember how quickly leaving the radio on could deplete the battery back in the day. Stop at the local tavern for a beer and leave the radio on, and you would come out and your car wouldn't start. Then you would have to go back into the tavern and drag 4 or 5 customers out to push start you. Jeez I hope I an not the only one here old enough to remember doing that kind of stuff all the time ;^) Tom Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Voltage Reducer
If you do order a 12v motor, check out the how-to on my website. I havent found a 12v motor that is a perfect drop-in replacement (diameter of the motor is slightly different) so this was my fix for that. http://www.speedprint.com/deves50/heaterrestore.php Allen is right IMHO, the best way to do it is replace the motor. -Original Message- From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of fahrbach51 Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 8:36 AM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Voltage Reducer All the help is so appreciated. At least I know the reducer is supposed to get hot, and although I will likely go ahead and order a 12v motor, I can at least feel okay about hooking up to this reducer and get some heat for now. I did read somewhere a recommendation to mount the reducer inside the heater unit case. Guess that makes sense since if it gonna throw off heat, it just as well be in there. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge. Fahrbach 1951 3600 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Allen Jones jonesal@... wrote: Your accessory voltage reducer is nothing more than a large carbon pile resistor. The way it drops voltage is by dissipating heat. Keep that thing away from anything you don't want to melt. A few on the list have provided good suggestions: measure the voltage to see where you are. The advantage to the resistor you have is that if it decided to fail, it pushes the carbon pile out the end - no catastrophic failure to do any damage. Another option is to look in a FLAPS heater motor catalog and find an exact, 12V replacement (mounting posts and shaft length/diameter) for your 6 volt motor. That's what I did on my 50 to eliminate the need for an external resistor and nobody can tell the difference by looking. A $35 job back then. Note that your two speed heater switch does the same thing as your accessory voltage reducer - it has a resistor in line for the low speed. Perhaps a motivation to get the correct motor in your heater box. Given you have converted everything else to 12v, there seems to be little motivation to keep the original heater motor. A stock tube radio on the other hand, is another story. Your accessory voltage reducer would not work very well (I'll bet you it would eventually fail in short order). I used a LARGE heat dissipating ceramic resistor with my tube radio for that job. And it gets way too hot to touch because as someone mentioned, the radio draws oodles more amperage than the heater motor. FYI, if you do have a radio and have converted to 12v, you can replace the power supply vibrator in the radio with choice 1) a solid state vibrator for more stable output (that's what I did) or choice 2) they now make a solid state vibrator that allows for 12v input. Even a better option to get rid of that hot resistor. Some modification is needed, though (like changing the face light bulbs to 12v). Good luck. Allen '50 3100 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of fahrbach51 [mfahrbach@...] Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 7:56 AM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Voltage Reducer Help for the limited of knowledge, please. After converting my 1951 3600 to 12-volt, and with the onset of another Kansas winter, I've decided to make ready the dealer-installed recirculating heater. After replacing the hoses and running through some magic radiator sealer, I believe the core will hold. Now to the 6-volt fan motor. I purchased, from Classic Parts of America, part #24-996 Accessory Voltage Reducer which is supposed to reduce the voltage for radios or heaters. I have no reason to advertise for them, I mention it only in case someone wants to look up that part and see what I have. I powered the heater fan switch directly from the ignition switch, and wired the reducer between the post on the switch and the fan motor, and the switch will power the motor at all 3 speeds, but I don't believe it is reducing any voltage. I swear the fan is spinning fast enough to move the pickup forward, and I'm just certain it is receiving too much voltage. Also, th! e reducer gets very hot. Any advice appreciated on whether I'm installing the reducer incorrectly? I don't want to burn up this 60 year old motor, and also wonder if it isn't wiser to part with $65 and buy a 12-volt motor? And most importantly, my heartfelt gratitude goes out to all Veterans, living and parted, who have sacrificed to make our homes and families safe. There are more of us than you know who do not take your gift to us for granted. Fahrbach '51 3600 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to:
[old-chevy-truck] Re: Voltage Reducer
Thanks, Deve. Actually I had already seen your website on this topic. LMC claims theirs is a drop in, but I'll get more info first. I have two of the accessory reducers, so I may try this double up idea. Just have to decide where to mount them. I'm not so sure I can figure out a way to mount them inside the heater cover. As always, thank you all for helping me out. Fahrbach 1951 3600 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Deve Krehbiel dkrehbiel@... wrote: If you do order a 12v motor, check out the how-to on my website. I havent found a 12v motor that is a perfect drop-in replacement (diameter of the motor is slightly different) so this was my fix for that. http://www.speedprint.com/deves50/heaterrestore.php Allen is right IMHO, the best way to do it is replace the motor. -Original Message- From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of fahrbach51 Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 8:36 AM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Voltage Reducer All the help is so appreciated. At least I know the reducer is supposed to get hot, and although I will likely go ahead and order a 12v motor, I can at least feel okay about hooking up to this reducer and get some heat for now. I did read somewhere a recommendation to mount the reducer inside the heater unit case. Guess that makes sense since if it gonna throw off heat, it just as well be in there. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge. Fahrbach 1951 3600 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Allen Jones jonesal@ wrote: Your accessory voltage reducer is nothing more than a large carbon pile resistor. The way it drops voltage is by dissipating heat. Keep that thing away from anything you don't want to melt. A few on the list have provided good suggestions: measure the voltage to see where you are. The advantage to the resistor you have is that if it decided to fail, it pushes the carbon pile out the end - no catastrophic failure to do any damage. Another option is to look in a FLAPS heater motor catalog and find an exact, 12V replacement (mounting posts and shaft length/diameter) for your 6 volt motor. That's what I did on my 50 to eliminate the need for an external resistor and nobody can tell the difference by looking. A $35 job back then. Note that your two speed heater switch does the same thing as your accessory voltage reducer - it has a resistor in line for the low speed. Perhaps a motivation to get the correct motor in your heater box. Given you have converted everything else to 12v, there seems to be little motivation to keep the original heater motor. A stock tube radio on the other hand, is another story. Your accessory voltage reducer would not work very well (I'll bet you it would eventually fail in short order). I used a LARGE heat dissipating ceramic resistor with my tube radio for that job. And it gets way too hot to touch because as someone mentioned, the radio draws oodles more amperage than the heater motor. FYI, if you do have a radio and have converted to 12v, you can replace the power supply vibrator in the radio with choice 1) a solid state vibrator for more stable output (that's what I did) or choice 2) they now make a solid state vibrator that allows for 12v input. Even a better option to get rid of that hot resistor. Some modification is needed, though (like changing the face light bulbs to 12v). Good luck. Allen '50 3100 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of fahrbach51 [mfahrbach@] Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 7:56 AM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Voltage Reducer Help for the limited of knowledge, please. After converting my 1951 3600 to 12-volt, and with the onset of another Kansas winter, I've decided to make ready the dealer-installed recirculating heater. After replacing the hoses and running through some magic radiator sealer, I believe the core will hold. Now to the 6-volt fan motor. I purchased, from Classic Parts of America, part #24-996 Accessory Voltage Reducer which is supposed to reduce the voltage for radios or heaters. I have no reason to advertise for them, I mention it only in case someone wants to look up that part and see what I have. I powered the heater fan switch directly from the ignition switch, and wired the reducer between the post on the switch and the fan motor, and the switch will power the motor at all 3 speeds, but I don't believe it is reducing any voltage. I swear the fan is spinning fast enough to move the pickup forward, and I'm just certain it is receiving too much voltage. Also, th! e reducer gets very hot. Any advice appreciated on whether I'm installing the reducer incorrectly? I don't want to burn up this 60 year old motor, and also
[old-chevy-truck] Re: Voltage Reducer
Thanks, Deve. Actually I had already seen your website on this topic. LMC claims theirs is a drop in, but I'll get more info first. I have two of the accessory reducers, so I may try this double up idea. Just have to decide where to mount them. I'm not so sure I can figure out a way to mount them inside the heater cover. As always, thank you all for helping me out. Fahrbach 1951 3600 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Deve Krehbiel dkrehbiel@... wrote: If you do order a 12v motor, check out the how-to on my website. I havent found a 12v motor that is a perfect drop-in replacement (diameter of the motor is slightly different) so this was my fix for that. http://www.speedprint.com/deves50/heaterrestore.php Allen is right IMHO, the best way to do it is replace the motor. -Original Message- From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of fahrbach51 Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 8:36 AM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Voltage Reducer All the help is so appreciated. At least I know the reducer is supposed to get hot, and although I will likely go ahead and order a 12v motor, I can at least feel okay about hooking up to this reducer and get some heat for now. I did read somewhere a recommendation to mount the reducer inside the heater unit case. Guess that makes sense since if it gonna throw off heat, it just as well be in there. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge. Fahrbach 1951 3600 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Allen Jones jonesal@ wrote: Your accessory voltage reducer is nothing more than a large carbon pile resistor. The way it drops voltage is by dissipating heat. Keep that thing away from anything you don't want to melt. A few on the list have provided good suggestions: measure the voltage to see where you are. The advantage to the resistor you have is that if it decided to fail, it pushes the carbon pile out the end - no catastrophic failure to do any damage. Another option is to look in a FLAPS heater motor catalog and find an exact, 12V replacement (mounting posts and shaft length/diameter) for your 6 volt motor. That's what I did on my 50 to eliminate the need for an external resistor and nobody can tell the difference by looking. A $35 job back then. Note that your two speed heater switch does the same thing as your accessory voltage reducer - it has a resistor in line for the low speed. Perhaps a motivation to get the correct motor in your heater box. Given you have converted everything else to 12v, there seems to be little motivation to keep the original heater motor. A stock tube radio on the other hand, is another story. Your accessory voltage reducer would not work very well (I'll bet you it would eventually fail in short order). I used a LARGE heat dissipating ceramic resistor with my tube radio for that job. And it gets way too hot to touch because as someone mentioned, the radio draws oodles more amperage than the heater motor. FYI, if you do have a radio and have converted to 12v, you can replace the power supply vibrator in the radio with choice 1) a solid state vibrator for more stable output (that's what I did) or choice 2) they now make a solid state vibrator that allows for 12v input. Even a better option to get rid of that hot resistor. Some modification is needed, though (like changing the face light bulbs to 12v). Good luck. Allen '50 3100 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on behalf of fahrbach51 [mfahrbach@] Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 7:56 AM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Voltage Reducer Help for the limited of knowledge, please. After converting my 1951 3600 to 12-volt, and with the onset of another Kansas winter, I've decided to make ready the dealer-installed recirculating heater. After replacing the hoses and running through some magic radiator sealer, I believe the core will hold. Now to the 6-volt fan motor. I purchased, from Classic Parts of America, part #24-996 Accessory Voltage Reducer which is supposed to reduce the voltage for radios or heaters. I have no reason to advertise for them, I mention it only in case someone wants to look up that part and see what I have. I powered the heater fan switch directly from the ignition switch, and wired the reducer between the post on the switch and the fan motor, and the switch will power the motor at all 3 speeds, but I don't believe it is reducing any voltage. I swear the fan is spinning fast enough to move the pickup forward, and I'm just certain it is receiving too much voltage. Also, th! e reducer gets very hot. Any advice appreciated on whether I'm installing the reducer incorrectly? I don't want to burn up this 60 year old motor, and also
[old-chevy-truck] Re: Re : 49 Driver window glass removal.
Wow, thanks for all the help on this. Particularly, I think, it was Bill in Oregon that reminded me about the on-line truck manuals. I don't know whether the screws I need taken out are barrel screws or clutch head screws, what I do know is the 5/32 inch clutch head driver I have is too big for the screws. The screws in question are the window lower frame screws in Fig 20 in this page of the repair manual: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0110.htm Not sure why the link isn't hot, but this is copied straight from my browser. I did find a local glass company that said they would do the work, so I think that is the way I am headed. Back to my first question that I obviously did not ask specific enough. Is there a smaller than 5/32 inch clutch head driver that fits these screws? just so I know and in case the glass company decides they cannot do it after all. I have looked everywhere, including all the suggestions provided, ACE, NAPA, on-line, vendors, etc. The set I ended up with was from LMC. Thanks again for all the help so far. I will try to remember to update everyone on the success (or not) with the glass company. --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Nate vwnate1@... wrote: I don't know: This is one of those things I allowed The Glass Shop to do for me as I was rorried I'd ruin them , as it turned out , theyhad new ones and replaced them . -Nate ksfarmmer (? WHO ?) wrote : I have checked the archives on replacing window glass and although there is a lot a good info, I haven't found anything on how to remove the screws that hold the glass on to the operating mechanisms. I noted a post by Nate calling them barrel screws that are easy to ruin. I can't figure out how to remove these screws. They look like what I would call pan head screws, but the smallest pan head screwdriver that I have found is still too big for these screws. All even if I find a screwdriver that fits, it doesn't look promising for those screws to come out very easily. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have had the glass setting in garage for far too long now. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] 1957 6400 series Chevrolet Wiring Diagram
I am looking for a wiring diagram mainly for my lights as it melted due to a short in the taillight wiring. The old on is fried and I am still trying to figure a couple of the wires out, before I put the switch back in it. Thanks so much for any help or links. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] 1957 6400 series Chevrolet Wiring Diagram
Here's a link to a 1957 Chevy Truck Wiring Diagram: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL148/1822929/8357155/112181627.jpgimgrefurl=http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t%3D29958h=600w=826sz=197tbnid=Mw-AOzXhNRyyyM:tbnh=90tbnw=124prev=/search%3Fq%3D1957%2Bchevy%2Btruck%2Bwiring%2Bdiagram%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Duzoom=1q=1957+chevy+truck+wiring+diagramusg=__-nqL41jUYmOT32uQ-katMQmSeZs=docid=W9MB9vG__uRUfMhl=ensa=Xei=1oGhUJuREeas2wXD74CYCAsqi=2ved=0CEAQ9QEwAQdur=4609 --- On Mon, 11/12/12, woodboy woodboy...@yahoo.com wrote: From: woodboy woodboy...@yahoo.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] 1957 6400 series Chevrolet Wiring Diagram To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, November 12, 2012, 4:56 PM I am looking for a wiring diagram mainly for my lights as it melted due to a short in the taillight wiring. The old on is fried and I am still trying to figure a couple of the wires out, before I put the switch back in it. Thanks so much for any help or links. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Re : 49 Driver window glass removal.
If they are the ones I am thinking of, they are slotted screws with a hole in the middle. The slot is on each side of the hole and very easy to miss when they are all rusted. You can get new ones thru the vendors. Not too hard to drill out if nothing else. Nate? Deve www.speedprint.com/Deves50 -Original Message- From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ksfarmmer Sent: Monday, November 12, 2012 4:35 PM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Re : 49 Driver window glass removal. Wow, thanks for all the help on this. Particularly, I think, it was Bill in Oregon that reminded me about the on-line truck manuals. I don't know whether the screws I need taken out are barrel screws or clutch head screws, what I do know is the 5/32 inch clutch head driver I have is too big for the screws. The screws in question are the window lower frame screws in Fig 20 in this page of the repair manual: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0110.htm Not sure why the link isn't hot, but this is copied straight from my browser. I did find a local glass company that said they would do the work, so I think that is the way I am headed. Back to my first question that I obviously did not ask specific enough. Is there a smaller than 5/32 inch clutch head driver that fits these screws? just so I know and in case the glass company decides they cannot do it after all. I have looked everywhere, including all the suggestions provided, ACE, NAPA, on-line, vendors, etc. The set I ended up with was from LMC. Thanks again for all the help so far. I will try to remember to update everyone on the success (or not) with the glass company. --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Nate vwnate1@... wrote: I don't know: This is one of those things I allowed The Glass Shop to do for me as I was rorried I'd ruin them , as it turned out , theyhad new ones and replaced them . -Nate ksfarmmer (? WHO ?) wrote : I have checked the archives on replacing window glass and although there is a lot a good info, I haven't found anything on how to remove the screws that hold the glass on to the operating mechanisms. I noted a post by Nate calling them barrel screws that are easy to ruin. I can't figure out how to remove these screws. They look like what I would call pan head screws, but the smallest pan head screwdriver that I have found is still too big for these screws. All even if I find a screwdriver that fits, it doesn't look promising for those screws to come out very easily. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have had the glass setting in garage for far too long now. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Replacement Accelerator pedal
I'd like to complain about shoddily-vulcanized after-market accelerator pedals. I just replaced one that had spooned into a concave shape from driving about 100 miles. I just replaced it with another crap one. (sad) The [problem is the metal spine was made with metal that's just TOO THIN. I wish I had saved my old worn-out one. Maybe I could have had it re-vulcanized. I have a 59 3200. Anyone else run into this pathetic problem? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Replacement Accelerator pedal
Can you plate the back of it to stiffen it up ? Wolf --- On Mon, 11/12/12, Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com wrote: From: Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Replacement Accelerator pedal To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, November 12, 2012, 7:03 PM I'd like to complain about shoddily-vulcanized after-market accelerator pedals. I just replaced one that had spooned into a concave shape from driving about 100 miles. I just replaced it with another crap one. (sad) The [problem is the metal spine was made with metal that's just TOO THIN. I wish I had saved my old worn-out one. Maybe I could have had it re-vulcanized. I have a 59 3200. Anyone else run into this pathetic problem? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Replacement Accelerator pedal
I was going to bolt a stiff piece of steel on the back. And try to use a low profile pan head screw that doesnt look too bad. Not much of a plater am I! (Although please explain! Sounds interesting.) And I will scour junkyards and find a real old strong one that might or not need vulcanizing. On Nov 12, 2012, at 5:10 PM, harley davidson harley_dad...@yahoo.com wrote: Can you plate the back of it to stiffen it up ? Wolf --- On Mon, 11/12/12, Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com wrote: From: Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Replacement Accelerator pedal To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, November 12, 2012, 7:03 PM I'd like to complain about shoddily-vulcanized after-market accelerator pedals. I just replaced one that had spooned into a concave shape from driving about 100 miles. I just replaced it with another crap one. (sad) The [problem is the metal spine was made with metal that's just TOO THIN. I wish I had saved my old worn-out one. Maybe I could have had it re-vulcanized. I have a 59 3200. Anyone else run into this pathetic problem? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: 1957 6400 series Chevrolet Wiring Diagram
Thank you so very much Ken !!! --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Ken Cluley kdcluley@... wrote: Here's a link to a 1957 Chevy Truck Wiring Diagram: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL148/1822929/8357155/112181627.jpgimgrefurl=http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t%3D29958h=600w=826sz=197tbnid=Mw-AOzXhNRyyyM:tbnh=90tbnw=124prev=/search%3Fq%3D1957%2Bchevy%2Btruck%2Bwiring%2Bdiagram%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Duzoom=1q=1957+chevy+truck+wiring+diagramusg=__-nqL41jUYmOT32uQ-katMQmSeZs=docid=W9MB9vG__uRUfMhl=ensa=Xei=1oGhUJuREeas2wXD74CYCAsqi=2ved=0CEAQ9QEwAQdur=4609 --- On Mon, 11/12/12, woodboy woodboyusa@... wrote: From: woodboy woodboyusa@... Subject: [old-chevy-truck] 1957 6400 series Chevrolet Wiring Diagram To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, November 12, 2012, 4:56 PM I am looking for a wiring diagram mainly for my lights as it melted due to a short in the taillight wiring. The old on is fried and I am still trying to figure a couple of the wires out, before I put the switch back in it. Thanks so much for any help or links. Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@...! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
