Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: horn relay question
You could run your house on that relay! (But don't) Merry New Year. On Dec 26, 2010, at 9:40 AM, ccpanel wrote: if you can make a 12V relay work-chevy makes an AWESOME relay I use for tons of stuff. its rated for 200 amps continuous and is meant to be used in a dual battery situation. they are relativly cheap $45 or so. yeah-that sounds like a lot till you look around in the aftermarket. Mark --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Burns" wrote: > > My 1940 half ton had only 1 fuse in it. I have decided to add a nice small 8 > circuit fuse block to it. My plan was to use a relay to switch power on and > off to the fuse block. The relay will be controlled by the ignition switch. > The only 6 volt relay that I have is from an old positive ground Ford. In > order to make it work, I will have to connect the relay coil backwards. I > tested the relay and was surprised to find that it operated fine with the > coil hooked up either way. > > > > My questions are: > > > > 1.Will a horn relay last when on for long periods of time? > > > > 2. How is it that a DC relay coil works no matter what polarity it is > connected to? > > > > Thanks > > Mike Burns > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: horn relay question
if you can make a 12V relay work-chevy makes an AWESOME relay I use for tons of stuff. its rated for 200 amps continuous and is meant to be used in a dual battery situation. they are relativly cheap $45 or so. yeah-that sounds like a lot till you look around in the aftermarket. Mark --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Burns" wrote: > > My 1940 half ton had only 1 fuse in it. I have decided to add a nice small 8 > circuit fuse block to it. My plan was to use a relay to switch power on and > off to the fuse block. The relay will be controlled by the ignition switch. > The only 6 volt relay that I have is from an old positive ground Ford. In > order to make it work, I will have to connect the relay coil backwards. I > tested the relay and was surprised to find that it operated fine with the > coil hooked up either way. > > > > My questions are: > > > > 1.Will a horn relay last when on for long periods of time? > > > > 2. How is it that a DC relay coil works no matter what polarity it is > connected to? > > > > Thanks > > Mike Burns > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: horn relay question
That's the right way to do things as ignition switches are not designed to either carry much current no to last 60 years Adding a relay to switch the headlight current away from the dashboard switch , increases the brightness quite a bit . The only reason GM trucks didn't come with power relays when new is : they're _cheap_trucks_ . -Nate Mike wrote: > > I thought about running my fuse block directly from the ignition switch too, > but wasn't sure how much current the switch would handle. > > > > Thanks for all of the replys. > > Mike > > > > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: old-chevy-truck-dig...@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: Horn Relay Question
Actually he could just wire up the relay to switch the ground , this is what I'd do as you could then hide the relay up undeneath the dash and it'd look stock and the all important mast jacket contact would still be only carrying a 1/4 amp. load instead of the full horn's load. Chris is _SO_ right , fully 90 % of all the electrical work I do is fixing other people's mistakes . -Nate Chris wrote: > No problem Dennis, you'd be surprised how many people have trouble > understanding electrical stuff, or how to work with it so I tend to be > a bit descriptive in explaining just to avoid getting excessive looks > of confusion. I think it makes it easier to do with a full > understanding anyway. Don't forget you will need to add a ground to > one side of the horn switch too since it wasnt originally grounded. > > Chris > > Dennis Miga <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Thanks for the lengthy explanation Chris. I'll get on > > it right away. > > > > Dennis Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: Horn Relay Question
No problem Dennis, you'd be surprised how many people have trouble understanding electrical stuff, or how to work with it so I tend to be a bit descriptive in explaining just to avoid getting excessive looks of confusion. I think it makes it easier to do with a full understanding anyway. Don't forget you will need to add a ground to one side of the horn switch too since it wasnt originally grounded. Chris Dennis Miga <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Thanks for the lengthy explanation Chris. I'll get on > it right away. > > Dennis Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Horn Relay Question
Thanks for the lengthy explanation Chris. I'll get on it right away. Dennis --- Chris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Well, I'd have to look at it to see what term's > exactly did what, but > what I can tell you is that it sounds like the relay > uses a common > terminal for the relay coil power and one side of > the contact (power > in). Of the remaining two, one will be the neg > (ground) side of the > coil,and the other will be the other side of the > contact that goes to > the horn. You should be able to use a battery > powered test light or > ohmmeter to determine whats what, the relay should > have normally open > contacts until you energize it via the horn button, > so, on the > workbench you will only have continuity between two > of the terminals, > these will be the ones that operate the relay coil > winding. Now, you > will need to determine polarity to make the horn > work right, so, > connect 6v or 12v (depending on what you bought it > to run on) across > the two terminals you just got continuity across, > you should hear the > relay "click" on. Now, with it energized, measure > from the extra > terminal to the neg side of the power source with a > voltmeter, if you > see 6v (or 12v) you have it wired correctly, if you > do not it is wired > backwards (the only reason the last test is > necessary is because the > relay has the internal bonding of the power in > terminal, so you MUST > have the hot wire on the terminal thats bonded to be > able to get power > out of the contact. > > Next step, wiring: The extra terminal will of course > go to the horn, > the other two that had continuity will need to be > wired as follows, > the terminal that has the hot wire on it goes back > to the battery thru > a fuse, the other (neg) terminal of the relay coil > will run to the > horn button, which will complete the coil power > circuit back to ground > when pushed. The original wiring was a hot wire > going to the button > then to the horn where it would ground to complete > the circuit, that > needs to be changed per the above instructions for > the relay setup to > work. > The reason to get power from the battery now > instead of the original > wire from the horn button is that it keeps the horn > load off of the > horn button, otherwise you'd still have the horn > across it and now > have added the additional coil load too. > > Chris > > > Dennis Miga <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > My '48 3100 came to me with the horn not working - > no > > horn installed, no horn relay, and a short in the > > steering column bearing wiring. I replaced the > > steering column bearing, installed a horn, put in > a > > new horn button retainer and contact spring and > > bushing. And I wired it all up. It works fine but > I > > feel the need to install a horn relay. I got one > from > > Chevy Duty but it has no installation > instructions. > > It's a three teminal unit. Which lead gets the 12V > hot > > lead? And do the other two connectors sit in > between > > the ground wire connecting the horn to the horn > > contact spring on the steering wheel? > > > > > > Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! > > To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no > body, just the email), to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[old-chevy-truck] Re: Horn Relay Question
Well, I'd have to look at it to see what term's exactly did what, but what I can tell you is that it sounds like the relay uses a common terminal for the relay coil power and one side of the contact (power in). Of the remaining two, one will be the neg (ground) side of the coil,and the other will be the other side of the contact that goes to the horn. You should be able to use a battery powered test light or ohmmeter to determine whats what, the relay should have normally open contacts until you energize it via the horn button, so, on the workbench you will only have continuity between two of the terminals, these will be the ones that operate the relay coil winding. Now, you will need to determine polarity to make the horn work right, so, connect 6v or 12v (depending on what you bought it to run on) across the two terminals you just got continuity across, you should hear the relay "click" on. Now, with it energized, measure from the extra terminal to the neg side of the power source with a voltmeter, if you see 6v (or 12v) you have it wired correctly, if you do not it is wired backwards (the only reason the last test is necessary is because the relay has the internal bonding of the power in terminal, so you MUST have the hot wire on the terminal thats bonded to be able to get power out of the contact. Next step, wiring: The extra terminal will of course go to the horn, the other two that had continuity will need to be wired as follows, the terminal that has the hot wire on it goes back to the battery thru a fuse, the other (neg) terminal of the relay coil will run to the horn button, which will complete the coil power circuit back to ground when pushed. The original wiring was a hot wire going to the button then to the horn where it would ground to complete the circuit, that needs to be changed per the above instructions for the relay setup to work. The reason to get power from the battery now instead of the original wire from the horn button is that it keeps the horn load off of the horn button, otherwise you'd still have the horn across it and now have added the additional coil load too. Chris Dennis Miga <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > My '48 3100 came to me with the horn not working - no > horn installed, no horn relay, and a short in the > steering column bearing wiring. I replaced the > steering column bearing, installed a horn, put in a > new horn button retainer and contact spring and > bushing. And I wired it all up. It works fine but I > feel the need to install a horn relay. I got one from > Chevy Duty but it has no installation instructions. > It's a three teminal unit. Which lead gets the 12V hot > lead? And do the other two connectors sit in between > the ground wire connecting the horn to the horn > contact spring on the steering wheel? Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
