Re: [OGD] Erik

2008-09-23 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Erik,

Unfortunately, I do not know of any nursery in the US that cultivates Corybas.  
However, the Australian nurseries that specialize in their native terrestrials 
(e.g. Nesbitts Orchids, etc) will typically ship tuberoids at the start of 
their dormant period.  Since they require no light and virtually no water, they 
should have problem surviving the trip.  The problem is growing them 
afterwards.  They are winter growers that like cool weather, but newly imported 
plants will break dormancy in the northern hemisphere Spring, just in time for 
hot weather.

I once imported a wide variety of Aussie terrestrials and had absolutely no 
luck growing them through the summer.  My only long term success has been with 
some Pterostylis curta that had already been switched over to northern 
hemisphere seasons.  How that was done, I do not know.

You might be successful with Corybas if you can keep them cool in the summer, 
especially at night, in some controlled environment.  A terrarium at room 
temperature does not seem to be sufficiently cool (or lacks the necessary 
day/night difference).  I tried.

Hope this helps.

Nick


  

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Re: [OGD] Name changes

2008-08-13 Thread Nicholas Plummer
> A) It is difficult to imagine combining a genus of large purple/pink 
> flowered plants into a genus of small red/orange flowered plants? 
> would it have been more "acceptable" to move Sopronitis into Laelia 
> and have Laelia coccinea and Laelia cernua?

I have wondered about this too.  I couldn't figure out why people were so 
disgruntled about moving Laelia tenebrosa or L. purpurata into the same genus 
as Sophronitis coccinea when the genus Laelia already contained L. tenebrosa, 
L. liliputana, and L. milleri.  Surely the morphological differences between L. 
tenebrosa and S. coccinea aren't much greater than the differences between L. 
tenebrosa and the miniature rupiculous laelias.  Sure, some people have favored 
separating out the rupiculous laelias, but it hasn't been a constant drumbeat 
of complaint every time the genus is mentioned.

regards.
Nick 


*


  

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[OGD] Orchids for the Chelsea Flower Show / impounded in the Netherlands

2008-05-22 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Correct me if I am wrong, but in the context of the
Cayman Islands, I think "wild banana orchid" means
Myrmecophila thomsoniana and "ghost orchid" means
Dendrophylax fawcettii.  Both species are well
established in cultivation (the Myrmecophila more
common than the Dendrophylax), and I'd be amazed if
they aren't already grown in Europe.  This sounds like
a bummer for the importer, but not a huge tragedy from
the point of view of conservation.  That's assuming
they were artificially propagated.  If they were wild
collected, than it is the importer who should be in
disgrace, not Dutch customs.

Nick


  

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Re: [OGD] Jim Asher's slides

2008-02-25 Thread Nicholas Plummer
forgot to sign my last email...

Nick Plummer



  

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[OGD] Jim Asher's slides

2008-02-25 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Wow, I certainly hope that some appropriate individual
or society has the skills to archive and preserve Dr.
Asher's slides.  An excellent talk on the
cochlopetalum paphs by Dr. Asher was the subject of
the very first orchid society meeting I ever attended.
 As a wet-behind-the-ears graduate student in genetics
AND an orchid neophyte in Michigan during the
early/mid 1990s, I was tremedously excited to meet not
one, but two, distinguished geneticists who were also
enthusiastic orchidists:  James H. Asher and James V.
Neel.  Since I went to that _other_ school, I knew Dr.
Neel better than Dr. Asher, but it was a privilge to
hear Dr. Asher lecture, both on slipper orchids and on
deafness genes.  Sadly, both men are no longer with
us, but hopefully their legacies will live on.


  

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[OGD] single sheath on Cattleya labiata?

2008-01-28 Thread Nicholas Plummer
I have been reading "The Classic Cattleyas" by
Chadwick Pere and Fils, in which the authors assert
that a double sheath is a diagnostic characteristic of
Cattleya labiata.  I have a seedling of Cattleya
labiata 'Mrs. E Ashworth' x 'Perola Rubra' which has
bloomed twice now.  Both times, it had a single
sheath.  The flower form and bloom season is
consistent with C. labiata, and the flower color is
consistent with those two parents, so I don't have any
reason to think it was mislabeled.  

Does the single sheath indicate that my plant is
mislabeled, despite its appearance?  Do young
seedlings of C. labiata sometimes bloom with a single
sheath?  Are either of those parents known to be
hybrids, natural or otherwise?

Nick

-- 
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Durham, North Carolina, USA


  

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[OGD] Cattleya walkeriana - thanks

2007-12-21 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Thank you to everyone who responded to my request for
C. walkeriana 'Pendentive.'  I have a trade arranged.

Nick


  

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[OGD] Cattleya walkeriana alba 'Pendentive'

2007-12-20 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Does anyone have a division of this old clone that
they'd like to trade?  In exchange, I can offer one or
more of the following: a compot of C. skinneri
seedlings, a small flask of Encyclia rufa, Polystachya
pubescens division, or a Maxillaria porphyrostele
division.

Nick
-- 
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Durham, NC


  

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[OGD] direct vent heaters, etc

2007-08-23 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Hi All,

Thanks for all the replies, on-list and by email, to
my query about greenhouse heaters.  As with almost
everything else in orchid growing, it appears that
there is no single ideal answer, but your responses
have given me more data when I weigh the pros and cons
of specific heaters.

Nick


   

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[OGD] direct vent gas heaters

2007-08-19 Thread Nicholas Plummer
For the past five years, I've been using a Southern
Burner vented heater in my greenhouse, but while I
have a new greenhouse under construction, I'm thinking
about upgrading to something a bit more efficient. 
I'm considering a direct vent heater, either Empire
DV35 or Sterling SF30 with ~24,500 BTU output, as that
would allow me to seal up the greenhouse better.  The
Empire has a standing pilot light, passive exhaust,
and sits on the ground.  The Sterling has electric
ignition, hangs from the ceiling, and has power
exhaust.  Does anyone have experience with either of
these brands in a wet greenhouse?

I'd prefer to have the heater at ground level and am
wondering if the Sterling can sit on concrete blocks
instead of hanging.  I'm a little concerned about the
pilot light on the Empire, as the pilot on my Southern
Burner went out a few times.  Does the Empire remain
lit reliably?  Electronic ignition and power exhaust
of the Sterling isn't a worry, as I plan to have a
backup generator installed for power cuts, but I don't
know if it would have a significant effect on
efficiency.

Any comments or other recommendations?

Thanks.

Nick
-- 
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Durham, NC, USA



   

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Re: [OGD] Laelia, Sophronitis problem

2007-08-01 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Bill Bergstrom:
> why not the Laelia as the proper one to use

That actually has a simple answer.  It's clear that
the Mexican and Brazilian "laelias" are quite
different.  The type species for the genus is a
Mexican species, so if the two groups are to be split,
the Mexican species get the name "Laelia," and the
Brazilian species must be renamed.

Nick



   

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Re: [OGD] Sophronitis

2007-07-31 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Icones:

> Sophronitis cernua, at least as I understand it, is
> not bird pollinated

Interesting.  Has the natural pollinator for S. cernua
been identified?  I've seen ruby throated hummingbirds
visiting my S. cernua, but I realize that doesn't tell
us anything about the pollinator in nature.  The birds
also visit my Broughtonia sanguinea and Renanthera
hybrid.

Leo:

> I am enjoying this exchange. This re-alignment of 
> Laelia seems to be driven by the enigma of one 
> species, S. cernua.

I'm also enjoying the discussion.  AFAIK, the problem
was the position of all the "Sophronitis" species, not
just S. cernua, as well as the observation that the
Brazilian laelias weren't closely related to the
Mexican laelias (which include the type species). 
Apparently, the Mexican/Brazilian split had also been
noted on morphological grounds.

These links are a little old, but still interesting:
First, a paper by Chiron and Castro Neto which splits
the Brazilian laelias into several genera, including
Hadrolaelia, Hoffmannseggella, etc.  Curiously, even
when Laelia is split up, most of the "Sophronitis" are
still placed in the same genus as Laelia tenebrosa and
L. purpurata.  Sophronitis cernua remains a
Sophronitis, but the large flowered "Sophronitis"
become Hadrolaelias along with the big Laelias.
 
http://members.xoom.alice.it/orchidnews/on17/paginas/vitor01eng.htm
 

Second, a response by van den Berg defending his
co-authors decision to lump all the Brazilian plants
in a broadly defined Sophronitis.

http://members.xoom.alice.it/orchidnews/on20/pages/cassio01en.htm

It will certainly be interesting to see what further
research brings.

Nick


   

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[OGD] molecular cladistics

2007-07-30 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Hi Leo,

With Sophronitis (in the traditional sense), I'm under
the impression that we are looking at adaptations for
pollination by hummingbirds, hence the small labellum,
red color, and lack of fragrance.  If the genus is
based on those features, it should probably ring alarm
bells so that we are wary of parallel evolution.  My
understanding is that the molecular data does suggest
that's the case with Sophronitis, since S. cernua and
the other species don't form a monophyletic group. 
You point out the importance of horticultural
information, and it is perhaps significant that S.
cernua has very different cultural requirements than
the other "Sophronitis" species.  Presumably, the
shared flower characteristics have evolved twice, a
situation that was not easily detectable by
morphology.

Since the molecular data had Sopronitis (and several
other genera) nesting within species that had
traditionally been called Laelia, there were two
options:  split Laelia into a bunch of little genera
or lump a bunch of traditional genera together.  It's
a judgment call, I guess, but at least lumping would
result in more stable nomenclature given the imperfect
data that is available.  If you have a large, broadly
defined genus, you don't need to rename everything
when new data requires re-aligning the smaller groups.
 So, I guess I'd consider the attempt to place all the
Brazilian Laelias into Sophronitis as imperfect but
reasonable, given the available data.

Nick


   

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Re: [OGD] molecular cladistics

2007-07-29 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Leo,

Why exactly is it "absurd nonsense" to place
Sophronitis cernua and Laelia tenebrosa in the same
genus?  The size difference within the genus Cattleya
is almost as great as the difference between L.
tenebrosa and S. cernua.  We know that changes in
orchid flower morphology can evolve rapidly and that
it probably requires very few mutations to produce
dramatic differences in size.  If the recent molecular
data has shown anything, it's that  250 years of
morphological taxonomy is subject to its own
systematic errors.  We can't simply dismiss the trees
as obviously wrong if they don't fit presuppositions
about the evolution of the plants. If the particular
segment that was sequenced was "inappropriate,"
explaining exactly why would help to illuminate
something new about the evolution of the plants.

Nick

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Re: [OGD] Coryanthes culture

2007-07-29 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Stephen,

As a first approximation, culture of Coryanthes
resembles that of Stanhopea.  The few species that I
have tried did well in a wire basket lined with sheet
moss and filled with long fiber sphagnum.  Coryanthes
seem to send most of their inflorescences out
horizontally, rather than down like a Stanhopea, so
you can have some success with a pot.  They grow very
fast when happy and decline very fast when displeased
with their culture.

The different species vary in size from smallish
(about the size of a Paphinia) to largish (about the
size of a big Stanhopea), so just pick the species you
like.

Nick

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Re: [OGD] snakes and frogs

2007-07-25 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Oliver,

4 cm seems much too large for the diameter of a 20 cm
snake.  Was the snakeskin intact or just a piece?  If
intact, I think you probably have more than one snake.

I'm interested in your frogs.  Are they terrestrial or
arboreal?  Have you heard them calling?  If you are
looking for an ID, a good candidate might be the
neotropical genus Eleutherodactylus.  
Eleutherodactylus species have direct development
(metaphorphosis in the egg so that little froglets are
hatched) and frequently lay eggs among the leaves of
plants like bromeliads, so they are easily transported
around.

Nick



   

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Re: [OGD] cultivation

2007-03-14 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Ewan,

Based on your location and growing areas, I think that
the easy orchids for you will be very different from
the ones that I find easy.  With ~20,000 orchid
species and several hundred thousand hybrids, there
are easy orchids for every climate but no orchids that
are easy in every climate.  Hybrid Phalaenopsis and
lowland Dendrobiums are often recommended for
beginners, but you may have difficulty giving them
sufficient warmth. 

Terrarium:  Orchids can be tricky in terraria.  If you
have lots of air movement (and preferably can
introduce some fresh air), you should be able to grow
small pleurothallids, Bulbophyllums, etc.  Your
specific choices will depend on the temperature that
you maintain in the terrarium.

Cold house: If your cold house is kept frost-free, you
could probably grow some of the Himalayan orchids such
as Pleione, many of the large standard Cymbidium
hybrids, and the Australian Dendrobium kingianum.  If
you keep the minimum temperature at 10-12 C, then you
can add many of the cooler growing Oncidium relatives
(e.g. Miltoniopsis, Odontoglossum, etc). 

Sunny windowsills or under fluorescent lights: 
Assuming that you keep your central heating set at
around 18-20 C, try miniature Cattleyas that have a
lot of Sophronitis in the breeding.

Probably avoid lowland tropicals like Vandas, Antelope
Dendrobiums, etc, until you have a handle on basic
culture and can customize a growing area.

I think the best thing for you to do would be to track
down some local growers or see what local nurseries
sell.  They'll also be able to help with potting mixes
tailored to your area (availability of mix components
varies widely, and different mixes are suited to
different watering regimens).  Some New Zealand orchid
societies can be found here:
http://www.orchidsonline.com.au/NZOrchidSocieties.html
and here:
http://www.orchidmall.com/society.htm#au

I apologize if this seems vague, but your question is
actually rather difficult to answer in detail from
halfway across the world.

Nick
-- 
Nicholas Plummer
Chapel Hill, NC, USA


 

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[OGD] for beginners: Archive

2007-03-13 Thread Nicholas Plummer
One last posting, and then I really should get to
work.

If you are a beginner, consider searching the archives
of this list and the now defunct Orchid List Digest
which had many of the same subscribers.  There really
is a huge amount of valuable information there, and
you can skip right over the flame wars:

OLD Archive:
http://entobib.unl.edu/orchid.htm
(This also contains at least a partial archive of the
OGD).

OGD archive:
http://www.mail-archive.com/orchids@orchidguide.com/info.html

Nick


 

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Re: [OGD] Cultivation

2007-03-13 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Ewan,

Sorry, I missed your initial posting.  The book that
Peter suggested is a good one.  I'd also recommend
"Orchids Simplified:  An Indoor Growing Guide" by
Henry Jaworski.

As for the specifics of your question.  It is
difficult to answer without knowing more about your
growing conditions.  Can you tell us if you will be
growing under lights, on a windowsill (what
direction?), or in a greenhouse?  As you know,
Sarracenias, lowland Nepenthes, and Mexican
Pinguiculas all require different culture.  Same deal
with orchids.  Most of the major groups of orchids
have plants that are easy for beginners, and hybrids
are often more tolerant for species. It would probably
be hard to go wrong with a hybrid Phalaenopis, hybrid
Dendrobium, or miniature cattleya.

Seed propagation should probably wait until you master
basic culture, unless you are already tissue-culturing
your own CP.  If you have a handle on tissue culture
techniques, then you should be able to flask orchid
seed.

Nick
-- 
Nicholas Plummer
Chapel Hill, NC, USA


 

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Re: [OGD] beginners

2007-03-13 Thread Nicholas Plummer
I would second what Eric Muehlbauer wrote in the
previous digest.  I've been subscribed to this list
and its predecessor for almost exactly thirteen years;
the OLD archive shows that my first posting was on
March 15, 1994.  At that time, I was a rank beginner
with a handful of plants on a windowsill, and so I
asked beginner questions.  This forum with its many
experienced growers has been an invaluable learning
tool for me, and in all those years, I don't think
I've ever been flamed for asking a question.

The arguments on this list are a bit like bull
elephant seals fighting over territory.  If you aren't
another bull elephant seal, their squabbling isn't
particularly interesting, and the elephant seals are
only interested in each other  If you don't get
involved, you won't get squashed.

Nick
-- 
Nicholas Plummer
Chapel Hill, NC, USA



 

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Re: [OGD] evaporative cooler for 14 x 20 - Thank you

2007-03-11 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Thank you to everyone who responded on- and off-list
to my query about a wet wall for my new greenhouse. 
Most people suggested one of the external evaporative
coolers instead, and this weekend I spoke to a local
grower who uses one.  Apparently, it works well,
despite our high humidity, and requires a much smaller
hole in the greenhouse "skin"

Mark Sullivan asked why I was concerned about
insulating a wet wall.  It's not freezing of the wet
wall itself that worried me, so much as sealing such a
large opening in the greenhouse.  For the external
evaporative coolers that is less of an issue.

Thanks again.

Nick
-- 
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[OGD] evaporative cooler for 14x20 greenhouse?

2007-03-09 Thread Nicholas Plummer
 I will be moving to a new house in a couple of months
and will be building a new greenhouse, probably 14x20,
over the Summer. In my current greenhouse, I use
under-the-bench misting nozzles to cool air entering
through shutters at ground level.  This works
reasonably well, but it uses a 
fair amount of water and leaves the greenhouse
environment very wet.

I'm considering a wet wall system (e.g.
http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GCCS).

Does anyone out there use a similar system in a hobby
greenhouse?  My primary concern is how to insulate it
on winter nights while still being able to vent the
greenhouse on sunny winter days.

FYI, I am in North Carolina, USA.

Thanks for any advice.

Nick

-- 
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Re: [OGD] Salep

2007-01-26 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Viateur,

A good place to start searching the medical literature is Medline (includes 
mostly English language journals, but also some journals in other 
languages).  Free access to the database can be found at pubmed 
(http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/).  The keyword "salep" brings up only 
four articles, three of them over forty years old.  I would tentatively 
conclude that there is no medical evidence for any harmful effects of 
consuming salep.  Certainly, it does not seem to be an active field of 
research, unless it is a hot topic in Turkish journals that are not indexed 
by medline..

Nick

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[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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[OGD] Dendrobium antennatum 'Green form' or D. strepsiceros?

2006-12-20 Thread Nicholas Plummer
I recently purchased an odd Dendrobium seedling, a selfing of a plant 
labeled Dendrobium antennatum 'Green Form.'  The mother plant apparently 
came from Lonne's Orchid Nursery in Cairns.  My plant is currently blooming, 
and the flowers are a pale green wherever a normal D. antennatum would be 
white:  labellum, sepals, and pedicel.  The petals are not twisted. 
Overall,  the flowers look rather like the picture of D. strepsiceros in 
_Dendrobium and its Relatives_ by Lavarack, Harris, and Stocker, but my 
plant seems to be more green.

Can anyone comment on Dendrobium antennatum 'Green Form'?  Is it a color 
form of D. antennatum, D. strepsiceros, or something else entirely?  If it 
is a form of D. antennatum, what is its origin?  Is there an easy way to 
distinguish D. antennatum from D. strepsiceros?

Thanks.

Nick
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Re: [OGD] addition of CO2

2006-11-18 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Thomas Hillson wrote:
> Even aquarium enthusiasts use supplemental CO2 to stimulate their plant 
> growth.

Actually, aquarium enthusiasts have the best case for adding CO2.  CO2 in an 
aquarium is very rapidly depleted and/or stripped out of the water by any 
significant surface agitation, and a well landscaped tank is very densely 
planted.  In that situation CO2 truly is  rate limiting for photosynthesis. 
In a typical greenhouse I doubt that CO2 is rate limiting, but in a small, 
tightly sealed wardian case, it might be.

Aquarists have also messed around with all the different methods of adding 
CO2 that you can imagine.  Fermentation works well in small tanks, but 
requires constant maintenance.  Dry ice is relatively expensive and and 
requires frequent purchases.  The most cost-effective, low maintenance 
method of adding CO2 to an aquarium is a bottle of compressed gas and a 
regulator.  I use a 25 lb tank for my aquarium, and I expect that it would 
work just as well attached to a wardian case or indoor growing area.

Nick
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Re: [OGD] Strange Phal behavior

2006-10-01 Thread Nicholas Plummer
> From: "Giles Smith"
>
> What is going on with the new basal shoots?  Is the original plant just a 
> genetic
> freak?  Is there some cultural factor that is influencing these particular 
> plants to
> perform in such an odd way?  I would rather have the bloom!  Any comments
>  would be appreciated

Are you referring to shoots that appear to be inflorescences but which 
produce a terminal keiki instead of flowers?  If so, I suspect cultural 
factors but have no idea what they are.  When I grew my P. schilleriana 
under lights for several years, it produced these terminal keikis but no 
flowers.  Since moving it to a greenhouse three or four years ago, it has 
flowered well but has not produced any keikis.

Nick
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Re: [OGD] Opinions please on an AOS award

2006-09-19 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Sirleen,
I suspect that by entering the plant for AOS judging, you have already 
agreed, implicitly or explicitly, to pay the award fee.  When entering 
plants in shows, it is usually possible to mark them "Not for AOS judging." 
That way, they should still be eligible for the show trophies, but you don't 
have to worry about the cost of an AOS award.

IMO, paying for awards only makes sense for commercial growers who stand to 
profit by an awarded plant.

Regards,
Nick 


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[OGD] Cattleya loddigesii x bicolor

2006-09-18 Thread Nicholas Plummer
I recently purchased a blooming seedling of C. loddigesii x C. bicolor, and 
I would like to know the correct grex name..  The RHS database lists two 
grex names for the cross:  C. sancheziana and C. Wilsoniana.  Carl Withner 
lists C. wilsoniana as the natural hybrid of C. harrisoniana x C. bicolor, 
so presumably RHS doesn't distinguish between C. loddigesii and C. 
harrisoniana.  Delfina de Araujo's Brazilian orchids website says that C. 
wilsoniana is C. intermedia x bicolor.  C. loddigesii x bicolor is named C. 
sororia on that website.

So, what is the correct name for this cross as a natural hybrid?  What name 
should I give an artificially produced example of the cross?

Thanks.

Nick
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Re: [OGD] Name Corrections

2006-09-14 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Guido wrote:
> There are some cases in which the correction of proven orthographic errors
> is allowed. HGR described Cypripedium boissierianum (Bonplandia) and
> Selenipedium boissierianum (Xenia). But even if he would have
> written "bossierianum" it should have been corrected to "boissierianum" as 
> the
> name of the person is known.

Recently, Eric Christenson described Habenaria erichmichaelii.  The species 
epithet is an obvious orthographic error, because it refers to Erich Michel 
who grows Habenarias and other species for Hoosier Orchid Nursery.  Can we 
simply refer to the plant as Habenaria erichmichelii, or is an additional 
publication required to correct the spelling first?

Nick

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Re: [OGD] Pk

2006-01-07 Thread Nicholas Plummer
> I must admit though, since it's likely already gone from it's native
> habitat, it's good too see some being hybridized and kept alive.

Yeah, but if it is already gone from its native habitat, that is only 
because so many people were obsessed with hybridizing it and keeping it 
alive at home.  I haven't heard of condos or highways being built on Pk 
hillsides, just thousands of obsessed orchidists talking about how amazing 
the plant is.We orchid growers haven't come out of this situation 
smelling like roses.

Note also that the hillsides were stripped long before artificially 
propagated plants could possibly have been generated in large numbers, so we 
can't blame CITES for preventing legal trade this time.  We have seen the 
enemy and he is us.

Nick
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Re: [OGD] warm growing pleurothallids

2006-01-05 Thread Nicholas Plummer
> While you guys are at it, may I know is there is any Pleuros species that 
> I can
> grow and flower) in warm/hot condition?

Pleurothallis longissima blooms beautifully in my greenhouse, where summer 
daytime temperatures are usually 90 F (32 C).  Last summer, the greenhouse 
reached 98.5 F (37 C) on several days, and the Pleurothallis showed no signs 
of stress.  I'd say that qualifies as warmth tolerant.

Nick
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Re: [OGD] Greenhouse heater

2006-01-02 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Cynthia wrote:
> Greenhouse heaters: I fixed up a 30+year old Southern Burner to run on 
> propane
> (replace burner+) and when ready to use, my hubby ran the numbers for cost 
> both
> electric (Prescott area) and propane (as delivered in bulk to house).  He 
> came out just
> slightly better for electric, until I reminded him of the heat going up 
> the flue.  Then it was > a no brainer, electric was cheaper.

I came to a similar conclusion when I did the calculation here in NC. 
Electricity was cheaper than propane, because I could seal up the greenhouse 
more tightly.  However, since we are subject to winter ice storms, propane 
made more sense.  The savings from electricity would have to be really 
enormous to cover the possibility of losing the entire collection if I were 
out of town during an extended power outage.  To feel secure, I'd need 
either an automatic standby generator, or a backup Southern Burner with 
propane tank.  That being the case, it made more sense just to use propane 
as the primary heater.

I do have a backup kerosene heater in the shed, but failure of the ol' 
Southern Burner seems much less likely than failure of an electric heater.

I wonder if an electric heat pump could be used in a greenhouse?  In our 
climate (zone 7), it would be significantly cheaper than either propane or 
electical resistance heating, though it would be subject to the same danger 
of power outage.

Nick
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Re: [OGD] Oeceoclades spathulifera again

2005-11-23 Thread Nicholas Plummer
> Recently I asked if anyone knew how to get a Oceoclades spathulifera to
> bloom.
>
> I got no answers that were useful.  Is it possible to get it to bloom in
> "captivity"?

I think it has only entered cultivation widely within the past few years, 
and it does seem to be more difficult to grow than related species.  It is 
possible that no one has bloomed it yet.  Maybe you will be the first!

Nick 


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[OGD] Encyclia identification

2005-08-21 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Mindful of Peter O'Byrne's recent comments about the difficulty of 
identifying orchids from photos, I won't ask for a positive identification 
of this plant.  Rather, I will ask if anyone can confirm whether or not its 
label is correct (and any other speculation as to its identity would, of 
course, be welcome).

http://home.nc.rr.com/myrmecophyte/Encycliasp.jpg
http://home.nc.rr.com/myrmecophyte/Encycliasp3.jpg

The plant in these two photos was sold to me as Encyclia alboxanthina, which 
Carl Withner considers a synonym of E. pachyantha.

Sepals and petals are green, lip is pale yellow/straw colored with purple 
stripes, and the anther cap is orange.  The pseudobulbs have two or three 
leaves, and the inflorescence is branched.  Notably, the flowers are 
arranged at odd angles on the inflorescence.  Some are non-resupinate, and 
others are sideways.  Relatively few are actually resupinate like most 
Encyclias.

The plant does have some characteristics in common with E. pachyantha:  The 
leaves lack an abscission layer, so they never fall off, and the color of 
the anther cap seems correct.  However, Withner says that the leaves of E. 
pachyantha are thin and broad.  This plant has narrow, rigid leaves that are 
very leathery, almost succulent.  The leaves look a lot like seedlings of E. 
phoenicea and E. x raganii that I am growing, but the flowers don't match 
any of the Caribbean species.

Withner says that the leaves of Encyclia pachyantha and Encyclia gracilis 
lack a functional abscission layers.  Are their any others?

There's a photo labeled E. pachyantha here, but as you can see, it doesn't 
match.
http://www.orkideas.com.br/inicio/colecoes/para01.html

Given the odd angles of the flowers, I wonder if this might be a hybrid of a 
non-resupinate and a resupinate species.

Any thoughts?

Nick
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[OGD] re: Salvage and the wild gene pool

2005-07-31 Thread Nicholas Plummer

Gerald Fisher wrote:

I suggest that a viable colony of cyps in my back
yard is just as 'available' to nature's gene pool as ones in > any other 
location.


Assuming that the plants in your backyard can interact (via pollinators) 
with a local wild population, then you have a good point, and one that I 
didn't consider in my first post.  In that case, "conservation" would 
dictate that one cultivate plants from the local area in order to avoid 
unintended effects on the wild gene pool.  But, if it's an isolated clone 
without habitat for seedlings in the immediate area, then conservation value 
is minimal.  If the cyps collected in Minnesota are shipped to Virginia, 
that would, in my opinion, be fine for cultivation but far from ideal for 
conservation.


Example:  I recently bloomed some seed grown Arisaema triphyllum for the 
first time.  The single inflorescence produced numerous berries.  My 
understanding is that A. tripyllum typically does not self pollinate, so 
they way have been pollinated by wild plants in the surrounding woods. 
Luckily, I grew my plants from local seed, so there shouldn't be any major 
effect.


In any case, my understanding, from reading _Orchid Fever_, is that the 
roadside populations of Cyps that Nelson collects are fairly robust, and 
"conservation" probably isn't a pressing need.


(snip)

I suspect eaten by the deer that up until a few years ago were
not 'harvested' and ate everything. Deer herd levels that were
uncontrolled because of the actions of some 'conservationists'


I'd suggest that the people who oppose all deer hunting (or control of other 
pest animals) typically are not conservationists. Conservation groups 
usually favor control of pest species.  It's groups like PETA that oppose 
deer hunting.


Nick
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[OGD] Re: conservation efforts

2005-07-30 Thread Nicholas Plummer
The discussion of Tom Nelson and Cypripedium salvage so far seems to be 
built on a false dichotomy.  Collecting for sale versus leaving the plants 
for the bulldozer aren't the only possibilities.  As Hansen points out in 
_Orchid Fever_, a third alternative is replanting the salvaged Cyps in the 
wild, and some of those who oppose Nelson's methods may prefer this 
strategy.


Personally, I have no problem with people like Nelson making a living by 
salvaging cyps for cultivation, but I don't think we should characterize it 
primarily as conservation. A cyp in my backyard or greenhouse is as dead to 
the wild gene pool as one that was bulldozed.  We might also consider the 
effect that selling collected cyps has on those nurseries that propagate 
cyps from seed.  Each hobbyists must weigh the alternatives when deciding 
which nursery to patronize and which plants to purchase.


Nick
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[OGD] re: metal anythings

2005-06-20 Thread Nicholas Plummer

Bert Pressman wrote:
Metal anythings covers a wide range of potential threats.  While silver, 
lead and > mercury are particularly toxic to living things, as is well 
documented in the
> literature, iron and zinc are components of essential enzymes and you had 
best > be advised that your orchids get enough of them rather than be 
protected

against them.


Bert,

How is this response any better than the mythology that you are hoping to 
combat?   That a metal is an essential component of enzymes indicates 
nothing about safe concentrations and whether it is toxic in greater than 
trace amounts.  Copper is a required plant nutrient, but it is also quite 
lethal to plants in high doses and is used as an aquatic herbicide. 
Overdoses of iron and zinc are likewise toxic to many plants.


I have no idea whether metal baskets are toxic to orchids, but your 
observation about required trace elements is irrelevant to that question.


Nick
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[OGD] Re: Dendrobium suzukii

2005-06-19 Thread Nicholas Plummer

Peter O'Byrne wrote:

b) nuclear ribosomes (the part of the cell that Yukawa tested) result
in their entirety from material created as a consequence of the fusion
of male and female gametes, and that none of the nuclear ribosomal DNA
originates from other sources in the egg cell.


Hi Peter,

Some slight nomenclatural confusion I think.  The nuclear ribosomal DNA is 
the DNA encoding the ribosomal RNA, not DNA within a ribosome.  "Nuclear" 
means that the DNA is part of the chromosomes in the cell nucleus.  Because 
it is part of the chromosomal DNA, inherited from egg cell and pollen cell, 
the ribosomal ITS sequence should identify cases of hybridization that would 
not be obvious when using non-nuclear DNA (e.g. chloroplast or 
mitochondrial) that is only inherited from one parent.


Regards,
Nick
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[OGD] re: Den suzukii/Peng Seng (more on sequencing)

2005-06-18 Thread Nicholas Plummer

To clarify my last comment.

Suppose two species have sequence as follows:

Species A -- ATTCTGAGCG
Species B -- ATCCTGTGCG

Directly sequencing PCR products derived from a primary hybrid will give 
you:


hybrid -- ATNCTGNGCG

This is because the PCR products contain equal amounts of T and C at 
position 3, and equal amounts of A and T at position 7.  This sequence could 
not be used in a phylogenetic analysis, because there are no informative 
sites -- the variable sites are ambiguous.


In the F2 or F3 generation of a cross, recombination between the two 
parental sequences could give an intermediate sequence like  ATTCTGTGCG, but 
this is only likely if the two variable positions are much further apart 
than the 917 bp that Yukawa sequenced.  Recombination within a single gene 
is unlikely.


Assuming that Yukawa is honest and moderately competent, I think his 
phylogeny is fairly strong evidence that D. suzukii is not D. Peng Seng.


Nick
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[OGD] Re: Den suzukii/Peng Seng (sequencing)

2005-06-18 Thread Nicholas Plummer

Peter O'Byrne wrote:


Yukawa had no reason to suspect that his D. suzukii was a hybrid, so
he has not discussed this possibilty in his analysis. I showed his
paper to researchers doing similar work at the Molecular Biology lab
at Singapore University, and was told that you'd get identical results
if "D. suzukii" was a hybrid.


I don't agree.  An F1 primary bybrid should have ribosomal RNA genes from 
both parents.  Amplifying total DNA, as Yukawa did, will amplify the genes 
from both species simultaneously.  Then, the results will depend on the 
specific protocol followed (which is not specified in the materials and 
methods).  If Yukawa directly sequenced the PCR products, he should see 
ambiguous nucleotides, usually designated "N,"  wherever the two parent 
species differ.  The results of sequencing a mixed PCR product are usually 
quite obvious.  If he cloned the PCR products and sequenced individual 
clones, then a primary hybrid would have given him sequence identical to one 
or the other parent, depending on which clone he sequenced.  I can't see any 
way that a primary hybrid could give clean sequence results that are 
intermediate between the two parents.


Nick
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[OGD] re: Grower friendly names

2005-06-11 Thread Nicholas Plummer
One of my favorite orchid names is Guido's Hispaniella henekenii.  It just 
rolls of the tongue so nicely.  I love the alliteration -- must be my 
Anglo-Saxon genes surfacing.


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[OGD] Flat mites

2005-06-06 Thread Nicholas Plummer
I've had good results with neem oil for controlling mites on Myrmecodia 
tuberosa (Rubiaceae) and Juanulloa mexicana (Solanaceae).  I haven't used it 
on many orchids, but I haven't noticed any toxicity on those that I have 
tested.


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[OGD] Re: Award for Jay's Acriopsis

2005-04-15 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Peter O'Byrne wrote:
That statement is rather patronising ... there is no way that this 
occasion
was a "first sighting" because the plant has been around for ages and is
well-documented in the literature. What you probably mean is "the first 
time
AOS judges have seen it", which is not the same thing.
Yes, that is exactly what Andy meant.  My understanding is that a CBR/AOS 
indicates the first time a species is exhibited before AOS judges and its 
identity confirmed by a taxonomist.  It gives the AOS judging system a 
minimum baseline for cultivated, not wild, plants (and more specifically for 
plants cultivated within the AOS system).  It's not an award for flower 
quality or for plant size. For the purposes of the CBR/AOS, it's completely 
irrelevant whether the plant is puny compared to wild specimens, is 
immature, or has been judged a zillion times by some other orchid society.

Nick
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[OGD] Angraecum pollination - thanks

2005-03-27 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Thanks to everyone who responded, both on- and off-list, to my question on 
orchid pollination.  I have obtained a copy of one of Nilsson and 
Wasserthal's recent papers, and the references there give me a nice entry 
into the literature.

Nick
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[OGD] Re: Harlequin Phals

2005-03-12 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Iris wrote:
Could you please give me a reference for the article and the definition he
gave or the reason he gives for calling them harlequins.
I don't have the reference, but the reason for calling them harlequins seems 
self explanatory.  Among other things, harlequin refers to patches of solid 
color on a contrasting background.  Compare the color pattern of a Harlequin 
phal with that of a harlequin dog (e.g. some great danes).

Nick
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[OGD] Angraecum sesquipedale blooming season

2005-02-20 Thread Nicholas Plummer
I have an Angraecum sesquipedale seedling that is in bud for the first time, 
and at the rate the bud is developing, it will probably flower in late 
March.  I had been under the impression that A. sesquipedale blooms in 
December, but I also have a vague recollection of reading that there may be 
two forms, one of which blooms in Spring.  Can anyone confirm whether that 
is true?  If there are two forms, are they different varieties or 
subspecies?

The seedling is the cross 'Orchidglade II' x 'March,' which suggests that at 
least one of the parents was a spring bloomer, too.

Nick
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[OGD] Re: twisted flowers (was Evolution of Ludisia)

2004-12-15 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Prem wrote:
Also, Tipularia discolor,
native to the eastern United States, has asymmetrical flowers with the lip
askew one direction and the dorsal sepal and petals skewed the other
direction.

I seem to recall reading that T. discolor is pollinated by moths, and the 
skewed flower ensures that the pollinia are deposited on the insect's 
compound eye.  A symmetrical flower would lead to the pollen being deposited 
on the moth's scaley forehead, where it would not stick well.

Can't recall where I read it, so I don't know if it is true.  I'd be curious 
to know if Tipularia flowers always skew the same direction.  If not, and if 
the direction is under genetic control, it could be a mechanism for 
reproductive isolation and, ultimately, speciation.

Nick
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[OGD] Encyclia pyriformis

2004-11-23 Thread Nicholas Plummer
I am seeking a seedling or division of Encyclia pyriformis.  In exchange, I 
can offer seedlings of Cattleya dolosa or epiphytic ant plants (Hydnophytum 
or Myrmecodia).  If interested, send me an email rather than replying to the 
list.  U.S. only.

Thanks.
Nick
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[OGD] fungus gnats

2004-09-09 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Dick Martino wrote:
> I've been really bothered by gnats this year despite the constant air
> circulation in my grow area and use of freely-draining potting material.
> Must be the mustiness of the basement. Finally went and bought some
> sundews (Drosera) and spotted them around the table. Jury is still out on
> how effective they'll be-they've only been in place for 10 days or so.

Also consider some Mexican Pinguicula species.  They're as easy to grow as
the sundews and have a huge leaf surface to trap gnats. The flowers of some
(e.g. P. moranensis) rival orchids.

Nick
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[OGD] Spiranthes sinensis

2004-08-21 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Dennis Westler wrote:
> On an Orchidaceous note, I recently was given Spiranthes sinensis, a plant
I
> had long desired to have. Will this plant thrive in conditions suitable
for
> Spiranthes odorata? Specifically, will it handle wet winters?

Spiranthes sinensis apparently has a very large range, extending from
Siberia to Australia, so I assume clones will vary in their cold tolerance.
Without knowing the origin of your plant, I would be hesitant to expose it
to as much cold as S. odorata would tolerate.  It should do fine with a wet
winter, though.  I have an S. sinensis (also origin unknown) that does fine
in wet soil if I place it in the refrigerator.  It also does fine sitting on
the floor of the greenhouse.  It tolerates freezing for short periods, but I
have been unwilling to risk it outdoors all winter here in zone 7.

Nick
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[OGD] Re: AOS membership levels

2004-08-15 Thread Nicholas Plummer
I would be interested to know whether AOS membership levels increased when
they started doing the "renew for two years and get $30 off a $100 orchid
purchase" promotion.  That was an inspired piece of marketing.  I certainly
took advantage of it.

At this point, I'm not sure I will renew when the two years are up.  With
the increased dues at both Orchid Digest and AOS, my plant budget will only
really cover one orchid magazine to go on the coffee table alongside "Cactus
and Succulent Journal" and "Carnivorous plant newsletter."

Nick
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Nicholas Plummer
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[OGD] Re: water pH and temperature

2004-08-11 Thread Nicholas Plummer
Peter O'Byrne wrote:
> Conclusion; something else is causing your pH change. Have you got any
algae
> or other plants growing in your container ? They would proliferate in the
> light, respiring and giving off carbon dioxide, which would dissolve in
the
> water, making it more acidic.

Algae and plants would photosynthesize in the light, producing oxygen and
consuming CO2.  That would increase pH.  In the dark, the plants give off
CO2 and lower the pH.  The effect can be quite dramatic in heavily planted
aquaria.  If Olga is seeing a pH decrease in the light and increase in the
dark, plants aren't the cause.

I would be curious to know the hardness of Olga's water.  If it is rainwater
or RO water with very little buffering capacity, then very subtle changes
can result in wild fluctuation of pH.

Nick
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Nicholas Plummer
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Nick
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[OGD] Re: Coryanthes and formic acid

2004-08-07 Thread Nicholas Plummer
> From: "Patricia and Jeff Harding
> When I was at a Colombian orchid grower's nursery they told me they put a
> solution of formic acid around the base of their Coryanthes once a month.
(snip)
> So, a bunch of us got some formic acid.  When they described this in
> Colombia, via translators, they said one tsp to the liter.  I envisioned a
> powder.  What we have gotten is a liquid, and when you read the
accompanying
> literature this is really caustic stuff and I wonder about the wisdom of
> using it.

Sounds like it is worth a try.  If Coryanthes simply want acidic conditions
that inhibit microbial growth, then dilute vinegar might work just as well.
I doubt there is a specific requirement for formic acid.

If you do use the formic acid, just remember:
"Do as you oughtta, add acid to water."
and
"Here lies a guy all pale and flaccid.  He added water to the acid."

By adding concentrated acid to water, you ensure that anything that splashes
up is mostly water.  If you add water to concentrated acid, then splashes
could be mostly acid.  Dilute the acid in a well ventilated room (or
outside) and don't breath the fumes.

Nick
-- 
Nicholas Plummer
nickplummer@
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