Re: PENTAX-M Macro 1:4 50mm

2001-08-13 Thread William Robb


- Original Message -
From: "Amita Guha"
Subject: RE: PENTAX-M Macro 1:4 50mm



> Since this is being shipped from Canada, would I have to
> fill out any funky paperwork for Customs or would they handle
> that?


I have found this lens to be most excellent at close distances,
at any aperture. However, it is not a really great lens beyond a
few feet focusing distance. In normal shooting distances, I
would put it on par, optically, with the 40mm f/2.8.
What with the theoretical free trade agreement between our two
countries, there shouldn't be much duties and the like to pay at
your end. Make sure the seller fills out a customs declaration,
and purchases sufficient insurance. Any duties are your
responsibility to pay.
If you can talk the seller into it, have them ship it as a gift
(still with an insured value of course). This will avoid most
duties or taxes that your government would want to collect.
William Robb

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Re: Enabled

2001-08-13 Thread Chris Brogden

On Tue, 14 Aug 2001, William Robb wrote:

> Umm Chris, are you sure about that? We are talking about a
> Takumar 6x7 lens, not a 35mm lens.
> William Robb

Oops, my bad.  Thanks!

:)
chris

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Re: Enabled

2001-08-13 Thread William Robb


- Original Message -
From: "Chris Brogden
Subject: Re: Enabled


> On Sun, 12 Aug 2001, Aaron Reynolds wrote:
>
> > >  My dream set up is still the 67II and the old SMC Tak
200/4.
> >
> > Is that lens any good?  I passed one up for $200 (Canadian,
that's like
> > $125 US or so) because I'm mostly into wides, it was older,
the minimum
> > focus was worse than the 105 f2.4, and I didn't really have
a loose $200.
>
> That's overpriced.  I can't speak to the sharpness, as I like
shorter
> lengths myself, but they usually go for around $60-100 US, I
think.

Umm Chris, are you sure about that? We are talking about a
Takumar 6x7 lens, not a 35mm lens.
William Robb


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Re: August PUG - Bill Casselberry

2001-08-13 Thread tom

Paul Jones wrote:
> 
> I remember a previous discussion on the possibility of not being able to
> shoot infared film with the MZ-S, but has this been confirmed?

I haven't heard anything, I'm wondering if Karen has tried it.

> I cant recall the reason now.

Well, if you didn't turn the data imprinting off, that would be a
problem. If you did turn it off, the IR sensor *might* fog the film. 

However, other MZ bodies have a sensor as well, and don't. I've tested
this with the ZX-5n.

I would assume with the MZ-S' new capabilities that the sensor is
different, so it might not work. If it does fog, it might not be
catastrophic fog. Canon users have learned to live with a small amount
of fogging along the edges, essentially ending up with something like a
36x22mm neg.

I have a Program Plus dedicated to IR, so, personally, I'm not going to
worry about it much. The meter in that thing seems to do remarkably well
with IR, I don't even think much about it anymore. I hardly even bracket
these days.

BTW, I developed my first batch of film in PMK tonight and didn't die.
The negs are nice and greencan't wait to print a few.

tv
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OT: Chemical pocket heaters (was RE: Aurora Borealis shooting)

2001-08-13 Thread Jostein Oksne


I think you're right Doug.
Inside there's a chemical mixture that reacts when exposed to air or
moisture. To keep camera gear warm, be sure to get the "exposed to air"
variant.

Though i guess all chemical reactions like that will go pretty slow at deep
freezer temperatures.

Jostein

> -Original Message-
> From: Doug Franklin [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
 
> Could he be talking about those little "keep warm" packets 
> that you can
> get at camping stores?  You know, the little bags that you squeeze to
> break a container inside, then it generates heat for a couple of hours
> ... sort of like a Cyalume stick for heat instead of light.
###

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Re: August PUG - Bill Casselberry

2001-08-13 Thread Chris Brogden

On Tue, 14 Aug 2001, Paul Jones wrote:

> I remember Canon specified that you couldnt use infared film the EOS1,
> Had a friend who tried it and the infared sendor only affected the
> film outside of the picture, near the sprocket holes.

Which is where the MZ-S writes the data to the film, right?  It seems a
shame to lose that info.

chris

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Re: August PUG - Bill Casselberry

2001-08-13 Thread Paul Jones

I remember Canon specified that you couldnt use infared film the EOS1, Had a
friend who tried it and the infared sendor only affected the film outside of
the picture, near the sprocket holes.


- Original Message -
From: "tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: August PUG - Bill Casselberry


> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > Did you MZ-S owners out there know you can't (?) shoot infrared film
with
> > the new Pentax.
>
> Have you tried it?
>
> tv
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RE: PENTAX-M Macro 1:4 50mm

2001-08-13 Thread Stephen J. Krogh

This is a fine flat field macro for close up work. If you don't get it, let
me know. We can talk.
http://panterragroup.home.mindspring.com/LX/50mm_F4_Macro_lens.jpg

Stephen J. Krogh, P.G.
The PanTerra Group
http://panterragroup.home.mindspring.com/




> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Amita Guha
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 3:40 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: PENTAX-M Macro 1:4 50mm
>
>
> Does anyone have any experience, good or
> bad, with this lens? It has come up on
> ebay.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1263752631
>
>
> Thanks,
> Amita
> http://pankurokku.com/~amita/balloons_801/
>
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Re: 3rd party lens as good as Pentax?

2001-08-13 Thread Mark Cassino

It's tough to say because in order to make a fair comparison one would have 
to own both the Pentax and the 3rd party lenses.

I tend to buy 3rd party lenses for less used focal lengths where I don't 
want to cough up the price of the Pentax lens, but want the focal length in 
the bag.

The better third party lenses I've used -

Rikenon 55mm  f1.2: decent sharpness wide open, excellent performer at f8 & 
f11, but the SMC 50mm f1.4 and 1.7 seem to match it except at f1.2.

Kiron 105 f2.8 macro: an outstanding lens that can often be found at $100 
to $150.  I doubt it it is as good as the SMC 100 f2.8 macos, but at a 
fraction of their cost it wins the price/quality ratio.

Tokina ATX 100 - 300 f4:  Excellent all around.

Sigma 14mm f3.5: Nice lens and incredibly rectilinear, but you need to stop 
down to f8 or f11 to minimize light fall off.  With the introduction of the 
EX 14mm f2.8, it can be had at a good price.  Not a focal length that gets 
much use and not one that justifies the major expense of the SMC or new 
Sigma (for me.)  But nice to have in the bag.

Sigma 50mm f2.8 macro:  Really nice lens with excellent sharpness and flare 
control.  I love 50mm's and I love macros, but I'd rather have the extra 
couple of stops of a 50mm f1.4 for general shooting, or the extra reach of 
a 100mm or 200mm for maco shooting, so it's not a lens that I take out often.

Tokina 400mm f5.6 - great lens at f8 and 11, a bit soft wide open.  I think 
the FA* SMC lens would be better, but is far more costly.

And though I haven't used it, the Sigma 500mm f4.5 is the best autofocus 
500mm currently made for Pentax.  (OK, it's also the only 500mm f4.5 
currently made for Pentax...)

As a side note - I spent a lot of time and money looking for a good manual 
focus 28 - 100 ish zoom to use with the LX.  I found the Vivitar Series 1 
28 - 90 f2.8 - 3.5 to be dud (way too much light falloff at 28mm, even when 
stopped down) and the Rikenon 28 - 100 f4, while nice and sharp, had 
unacceptable distortion.  I ultimately bought the SMC-A 28-135 f4 and have 
not regretted it.  I was rather surprised at how few third party lenses 
were available in this range and how bad the ones I did get were.

- MCC


At 10:44 PM 8/12/01 -0500, Dan wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>I periodically come across shots taken with the Tamron SP 90/2.5 macro and
>get blown away by how utterly _lovely_ the images shot with that lens can
>be--to my eye as good as the FA 100/2.8 macro.
>
>Limiting it to lenses currently or formerly available in k or screwmount,
>what other 3rd party primes would you nominate as being equal to or better
>than Pentax's best prime in same focal length (or are there any)?

- - - - - - - - - -
Mark Cassino
Kalamazoo, MI
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- - - - - - - - - -
Photos:
http://www.markcassino.com
- - - - - - - - - - 

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Re: Must Resist!

2001-08-13 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Hi Bob ...

Helix is a good place to practice your resistance techniques. However,
let's be real here, you need an MZ-S to go with those nice Ltd. lenses
you have.  

You need an MZ-S, you need an MZ-S ... you are getting sleepy, you are
drifting off, s-l-o-w-l-y ... your eyes are closing, you need an MZ-S
you are reaching for your credit card ...
-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: ebay inflation

2001-08-13 Thread Amita Guha

I know what you mean. Someone is unloading a bunch of
Vanguard monopods on ebay with a BIN price of $5 MORE
than B&H has it. Go figure.

--Amita

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RE: PENTAX-M Macro 1:4 50mm

2001-08-13 Thread Amita Guha

> I have it - I love it.  Sharp as a tack.  Go for it, girl.

Thanks Ann. :)

Since this is being shipped from Canada, would I have to
fill out any funky paperwork for Customs or would they handle
that? 

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Re: OT: ebay inflation/deflation(FS)

2001-08-13 Thread Bob Poe

If you are the seller, it's the other way around
sometimes.  I was just notified that my auction didn't
meet the reserve.  While I'm thinking of re-listing, I
thought I would give this group a crack at the
following:
Pentax ZX5n with battery holder FG and
Pentax 43mm limited lens.(includes all caps, hood,
boxes manuals..)
KEH lists the 5n in "like new" condition (which mine
is also) for $245.00. Used FGs go for $17.00.
KEH has no 43mm lenses, new or used.  New ones sell at
Adorama or B&H for $449.00.
Somone make me an offer over $500.00 and I will pay
for shipping.
I still have the SL, LX, and ZX7, so I will not be
needing the 5n.  The 43 lens is not a focal length
that I've been able to adapt to.
I realize that this is not the bargain of the century,
but I do believe it is fair.
Kind regards,
Bob Poe


> The moral of the story is, of course,
> beware of ebay prices.
> I know I've found many bargains there. But for the
> last year or two, as
> the auction has grown more popular, bidding frenzy
> frequently prices
> things beyond what they're worth. I guess I ought to
> start selling some
> of that stuff that's gathering dust.
> Paul
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=
What boots up must come down.

__
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Re: [Fwd: [Leica] Anyone for PX625 cells?]

2001-08-13 Thread Frank Theriault

SS!

Jim Apilado wrote:

> I thought selling mercury batteries is illegal in the U.S. ?
>
> Jim A.
>

--
"The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The
pessimist fears it is true." -J. Robert
Oppenheimer


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lens database?

2001-08-13 Thread CW

So I'm reading the digest all the time and there's this constant murmur
about lenses.  "Is this lens good?"

Would it be good if someone who isn't web-developmentally challenged (like
me) put together a poll where you could vote on lenses based on a couple key
criteria?
Sharp or not?  Recommend or not? Size/weight ok?
Price?  Feels like a dream or a pile of crappy plastic...
So when you had a notion to buy a lens, you could go there and see how the
collective list feels.

I know I'm proposing something that is work-based and not actually offering
to DO it but...it's just an idea.  I'm sure I'm not the first to think of it
and it probably already exists but I hadn't seen it yet.

Cory Waters
Atlanta, GA USA



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Pentax MZ-M for sale in Canada

2001-08-13 Thread Peter Spiro
I have recently acquired a second MZ-M, and so I have put one of them up for sale on eBay.  
 
http://cgi.ca.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1264226247
 
The MZ-M is the MZ-5n's little brother, with many of the same features and controls.   It makes a great ultra-lightweight backup body.  To see my review of this and other Pentax cameras, please go to
http://ca.geocities.com/spirope/PentaxSLR.htm
 
 Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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Re: Welcome to pentax-discuss

2001-08-13 Thread Frank Theriault

Don't worry, Wendy,

To my numerous relatives who live in Nova Scotia, everything west of Quebec is "The
West"!  :-)

regards,
frank

Wendy Beard wrote:

> Duh, just read the word "western". Looks like I need to polish up my geography.
>
> W.
>
> >At 07:06 13-8-2001 -0400, I wrote:
> >>Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 22:53:27 -0400
> >>From: Michael Perham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>Subject: Re: Welcome to pentax-discuss
> >>
> >>Karen, I understand only 6 MZ-S cameras were brought in to Western
> >>Canada.  The
> >>Pentax rep has one... so only 5 went into retailers.  You have one, I
> >>have one
> >>and I wonder where the other 3 are?
> >>
> >>Cheers,  Mike.
> >
> >
> >Two weeks ago, there was one in the Focus Centre on Bank St in Ottawa. As
> >I didn't buy it, it may still be there..!
> >
> >W.
> >
> >---
> >Wendy & Paul Beard
> >Ottawa, Canada
> >mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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--
"The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears
it is true." -J. Robert
Oppenheimer


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Re: August PUG favourites from Cotty

2001-08-13 Thread Gary L. Murphy

On Mon, 13 Aug 2001 23:35:27 +0100, Cotty wrote:

>City Lights
>by Gary Murphy
>Simply: I like it.

Thanks for the kind words, Cotty!




Later,
Gary


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August PUG assignment - D. Glenn Arthur Jr.

2001-08-13 Thread Frank Theriault

My last "assignment" this month is:

D. Glenn Arthur Jr., "Curry"

Well, for starters, I'm a "cat person", so I'm a sucker for a good
feline shot like this one.

The lighting is extremely effective here.  I find the effect of almost
total blackness on the left to be dramatic, just capturing the outline
of the cat's right ear.

The expression on Curry's face is fascinating.  I could stare back at
her for a long time - it's mesmerizing.  I'm forever trying to capture
such moments, and inevitably, the cat, animal, or person, moves a split
second before I'm about to squeeze the shutter release - "damn, missed
another one!"  Well done.

I wonder if the shot might be a bit more effective if the cat were a bit
sharper?  I'm not really criticizing here, because I might look at this
shot with a sharper cat, and think that the less-sharp one works better.
Just wondering.

I've also got to say that the orange monochrome isn't really to my
liking, but hey, that was the colour of the lighting that you were
presented with.  And, certainly, the positive aspects of this shot
outweigh the whatever might be taken away by the colour, which is only a
personal opinion, in any event.

All in all, like all the other shots in this month's gallery (excluding
mine, of course), a wonderful image.  Other's have said it already, but
the August PUG was stunning!

Thanks, Glenn.

regards,
frank

--
"The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The
pessimist fears it is true." -J. Robert
Oppenheimer


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OT: 0 Leica

2001-08-13 Thread Jim Apilado

There's an interesting test evaluation of the 0 Leica replica that can
actually take pictures.  If you have a few bucks available a purchaser could
experience the joy of early 35mm photography.
Jim A. 
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August PUG - Bill Casselberry

2001-08-13 Thread Frank Theriault

Number two of my August PUG assignments is:

Bill Casselberry, "Yakina Bay Bridge"

Well, I guess that recording light that the human eye can't detect is
certainly "alternative", isn't it!  No doubt that this one fits in with
the theme this month.

I must compliment you, Bill, on such a dramatic image!

I've never used infrared film, but your shot reminds me that I'll have
to buy a few rolls and fool around with them.  There's something about
IR when it's done right (as this, imho, is) that makes absolutely
ethereal and surreal images.

I love the sky - talk about dramatic - which I assume would not have
looked nearly so unreal with conventionaly film.  Looks like a prelude
to the Second Coming!

Your choice of lens is perfect, as it adds to the overall drama of the
shot.  That HUGE first span, with the other spans diminishing in size
much more quickly than would be seen with the naked eye, works very will
with the framing.  I don't know how long the bridge actually is, but the
way you shot it makes it look large, imposing and impressive.

Once again, my critique really doesn't do your shot justice, Bill.  I
loved it.  Thanks.

regards,
frank

--
"The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The
pessimist fears it is true." -J. Robert
Oppenheimer


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Re: Most Productive Gear?

2001-08-13 Thread Jim Apilado
Title: Re: Most Productive Gear?



I like using my ES II with an SMC 35mm f2 lens on it.  For sentimental reasons, I still own my first Pentax, a Honeywell Pentax H3.  I take it out once in a while and run it through its paces.  

Jim A.


From: "Paul Jones" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 13:35:42 +1000
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Most Productive Gear?


Hi,
 
Since we have been having a trend of user surveys/questions, I have one.
 
What is your most productive body and lense combo?
 
Also:
 
Whats your least productive body and lense combo, which really should have been productive.
 
My most productive combo is: Spotmatic SP and Super Takumar 55/1.8
 

Cyas







Re: Welcome to pentax-discuss

2001-08-13 Thread Wendy Beard

Duh, just read the word "western". Looks like I need to polish up my geography.

W.

>At 07:06 13-8-2001 -0400, I wrote:
>>Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 22:53:27 -0400
>>From: Michael Perham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Subject: Re: Welcome to pentax-discuss
>>
>>Karen, I understand only 6 MZ-S cameras were brought in to Western 
>>Canada.  The
>>Pentax rep has one... so only 5 went into retailers.  You have one, I 
>>have one
>>and I wonder where the other 3 are?
>>
>>Cheers,  Mike.
>
>
>Two weeks ago, there was one in the Focus Centre on Bank St in Ottawa. As 
>I didn't buy it, it may still be there..!
>
>W.
>
>---
>Wendy & Paul Beard
>Ottawa, Canada
>mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Fwd: [Leica] Anyone for PX625 cells?]

2001-08-13 Thread Jim Apilado

I thought selling mercury batteries is illegal in the U.S. ?

Jim A.

> From: Shel Belinkoff <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 17:38:35 -0700
> To: Pentax List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [Fwd: [Leica] Anyone for PX625 cells?]
> 
> 
> 
>  Original Message 
> Subject: [Leica] Anyone for PX625 cells?
> Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 20:19:23 -0400 (EDT)
> From: John W Lee <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Dear Fellow LUGgers;
> 
> I received in the mail recently the July 2001
> product/price list from Heitz Service Corp. in
> an envelope that was postmarked Aug. 4, 2001.
> They have PX625 mercury cells for 5 bucks each
> (US$5.00).
> 
> Heitz Service Corp.
> 34-11 62nd Street
> Woodside, NY 11377
> Tel: 718.565.0004
> Fax: 718.565.2582
> E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Regards,
> John
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Aug PUG comments - Dave O'Brien

2001-08-13 Thread Frank Theriault

Hi,

After some delay (it was so damned hot last week, I just didn't feel
like it), here are my August PUG "assignments", starting with:

Dave O'Brien, "Carleena"

I think this is a wonderful portrait of a musical artist in action.  You
captured her at a wonderful angle - her face at a profile, her body at
3/4 profile;  I think this is very effective for this particular shot.

I also think that you captured her at the perfect moment.  Eyes half or
almost closed, completely, emotionally "into her song", but (at least so
it seems from the shot), not "posing" or grandstanding.  It strikes me
as a very honest image.  The framing works beautifully:  slightly off to
the right-of-centre, from the chest up.  Because she's slightly off
centre, you've been able to have the two lights to the upper left, which
adds to the "live" feeling (I'm not explaining myself very well here),
while keeping everything in proportion.

I also like the fact that she's wearing (what appears in B&W to be) a
white t-shirt.  Other than skintones, everything in the shot is either
black (ie:  microphone) or white (shirt and lights), which adds to the
drama of the shot.

The lighting is also quite dramatic - face exposed perfectly, the black
under her chin and jaw, wonderful detail of her hair and facial
features.

An extremely effective portrait in its own right, and very much in
keeping with this month's theme.  Thanks.  I really enjoyed it!

regards,
frank

--
"The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The
pessimist fears it is true." -J. Robert
Oppenheimer


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Product Photography

2001-08-13 Thread Paul Jones



Hi,
 
I'm interested in doing some product photography, 
mainly shots of smallish objects like camera equipment, models and 
similar.
 
I'm wondering what equipment i will need, i'm 
prepared to buy a few bits and pieces and how i should go about doing 
it.
 
I can use either an LX or MZ-S and i have enough 
lense to cover most focal lengthes. The only flash i really have is a cheap 
haminex which is not ttl. altough i was considering buying a AF220T, as i can 
use this for macro work also.
 
Any help appreciated.
 
Thanks,
Paul Jones
 


Re: Welcome to pentax-discuss

2001-08-13 Thread Wendy Beard

At 07:06 13-8-2001 -0400, you wrote:
>Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 22:53:27 -0400
>From: Michael Perham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Welcome to pentax-discuss
>
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Just introducing myself
>
> > Just bought the MZ-S and am shopping to add to my glass collection though I
> > do have a couple of decent lenses.
>
>Karen, I understand only 6 MZ-S cameras were brought in to Western 
>Canada.  The
>Pentax rep has one... so only 5 went into retailers.  You have one, I have one
>and I wonder where the other 3 are?
>
>Cheers,  Mike.


Two weeks ago, there was one in the Focus Centre on Bank St in Ottawa. As I 
didn't buy it, it may still be there..!

W.


---
Wendy & Paul Beard
Ottawa, Canada
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: Most Productive Gear?

2001-08-13 Thread Wendy Beard

At 01:15 13-8-2001 -0400, you wrote:
>Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 13:35:42 +1000
>From: "Paul Jones" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Most Productive Gear?
>
>Hi,
>
>Since we have been having a trend of user surveys/questions, I have one.
>
>What is your most productive body and lense combo?
>
>Also:
>
>Whats your least productive body and lense combo, which really should =
>have been productive.


My most productive by far is MX with 50mm 1.7

Least productive (which should have been productive) LX and A35-105.
Lens produces cracking photos, but I don't like the zoom. The whole outfit 
is just too bulky.

W.


---
Wendy & Paul Beard
Ottawa, Canada
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Must Resist!

2001-08-13 Thread Rfsindg

Saw the MZ-S today at the local Helix in west suburban Chicago.

I have read most of the threads on the body since the initial pictures 
appeared.
I saw it with a Pentax AF28-70 F4 mounted on it.  The very light and plastic 
feel is quite a contrast to the LX and the PZ series cameras.  I have no 
doubt about the camera's quality, but the feel is a bit disarming.

I knew how most of the functions operated from prior discussions.  It seemed 
to be a natural extension of past Pentax practices...no 3 hours with the PZ-1 
manual to understand the layout.  I was skeptical about the electronic depth 
of field preview, but found it was quite handy.  The viewfinder was clear and 
easily visible with my glasses on.  The AF point selected was clear and easy 
to understand.

Most interesting was the mirror.  It had two black 2mm strips along the 
sides, perhaps to hold it in place, but this made the mirror smaller.  The 
mirror box had an obvious place to pull the focusing screen down and replace 
it.  But most interesting of all, the mirror vibration and sound was 
significantly less than an LX, or Super Program, or even the ME Super.  This 
really was amazing.

I had to put the camera down and meet my wife and daughter for dinner, but I 
had the urge to buy it.  I must resist.

I took my wife back after dinner to take another look.  She asked if it would 
make a good 30th anniversary present.  I must resist.

I promised myself I would wait for the MZ-Sn.  I MUST RESIST.

Bob S.
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Re: more 70-200f4 pics

2001-08-13 Thread William Wooten

Here's some pics (40kb or less) taken with a PENTAX Program Plus using
Kodak (Max?)800 color & a CCP Phase2 CCT 70-200f4 macro/zoom lens sitting
on top of a Kiron 2x tele... handheld... full program mode 

They are webcam pics of glossy photos... not exactly the best way to get em
in the computer, but now you guys have something besides PUG shots to look
at.  Strictly amature... I just wanted to hear how loudly everyone
grumped abt em.  lol

What I find interesting is even with em being slightly out of focus (I took
my glasses off & didn't own a -.75 diopter at the time)... you can "almost"
make out the spectators faces, like in air-1.jpg!! (well, the print ya can)
Not exactly bokeh, eh?  Thank you, Mr. Split-prism & infinity, eh?

where are they?? Here.
http://pages.prodigy.net/billpayer/misc/  

I checked it with Nutscrape 4.72 & it worked 

Flame on
Scoot
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[Fwd: [Leica] Anyone for PX625 cells?]

2001-08-13 Thread Shel Belinkoff



 Original Message 
Subject: [Leica] Anyone for PX625 cells?
Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 20:19:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: John W Lee <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Dear Fellow LUGgers;

I received in the mail recently the July 2001 
product/price list from Heitz Service Corp. in 
an envelope that was postmarked Aug. 4, 2001. 
They have PX625 mercury cells for 5 bucks each
(US$5.00).

Heitz Service Corp.
34-11 62nd Street
Woodside, NY 11377
Tel: 718.565.0004
Fax: 718.565.2582
E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Regards,
John
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Fuji Acros in San Francisco & East Bay

2001-08-13 Thread Shel Belinkoff

There has been a fair amount of interest in this film with a number of
list members wondering where it can be purchased.  In the San
Francisco and East Bay (Oakland, Berkeley) areas it can be found at
Calumet on Bryant St. in SF and at The Looking Glass on Telegraph
Avenue in Berkeley.
-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"Why should I use a meter?  What if the darn thing broke on me
when I was out making a photograph? Then what would I do?"
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scanned pentax stuff

2001-08-13 Thread george de fockert


Pentax literature (most of them dutch)

The originals scanned at 300dpi to PNG, but the files here are at height/3,
width/3
so effectively filesize/9 and in medium quality jpg to keep the size (and
download time) low.
I am not planning to put the full resolution files on this server with my
current bandwith limitations.(max 15Kbyte/second)

George de Fockert

 dumped on the server :  ftp://icthuis.dyndns.org/pub/pentax/jpg_mini
(table painfully manual alligned, how can I get rid of this stupid
proportional font in outlook)

  003101_eng LX (24)
  06021 MV (13)
  06075_nl   de vele ogen (9) ( A2 size lensposter included! )
  06105_nl   super A (28)
  06221_eng   6x7 (20)
  06225_nl   MG (16)
  06241 MX (12)
  06255_nl   program A (20)
  06730_nl   ME super (16)
  06755 K series (8)
  06995_nl   dental (4)
  K1000K1000 (4)




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Re: August PUG favourites from Cotty

2001-08-13 Thread PAUL STENQUIST



Cotty wrote:
> 
>
> Mountain Goat
> by Paul Stenquist
> Great narrative with a belting shot. Love it.
> 
Thanks, after a particular grueling day at work, you made everything better.
Paul
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OT: ebay inflation

2001-08-13 Thread PAUL STENQUIST

I almost always check the KEH price on an item before bidding on ebay.
This time I didn't. For one, I was beleaguered at work and didn't have
much time, and I really wanted the equipment: a Quantum Battery 2 and
charger. Well, I paid 168.50 for a like new unit. Today I checked the
KEH price and found they have one (excellent, I believe) for $99. Big
difference. The moral of the story is, of course, beware of ebay prices.
I know I've found many bargains there. But for the last year or two, as
the auction has grown more popular, bidding frenzy frequently prices
things beyond what they're worth. I guess I ought to start selling some
of that stuff that's gathering dust.
Paul
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Re: Enabled !

2001-08-13 Thread Paul Jones

I've had mine now a bit under a week and the most noticeable thing I've
noticed so far is how good the focus screen is with manual focus lenses. I
find it significantly better than the screens in my LX and I have the new
Japan release screens. I shot a film at a market on Saturday with an M50/1.5
and M135/3.5 and it was magic.

Haven't tried the battery grip, cant afford it yet :) I'm going to have to
wait and order one from the US as in Australia there $500au ($250us).

You would all be jealous if you knew how much I paid for the MZ-S :)


- Original Message -
From: "Bill Owens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 3:52 AM
Subject: Enabled !


> The yard sale K1000 gave me enough bodies to be enabled via trade to pick
up
> a MZ-S and BG-10 grip.  The war department is happy since there are now
only
> 2 bodies lying around the house (MZ-S and Spotmatic) instead of 6 and I'm
> happy to have the latest offering from Pentax.
>
> My impressions after the first couple of hours:
>
> Upside:
>
> Although the body itself is small and light, adding the BG-10 and FA28/105
> makes quite a handful.
>
> The flash sync of 1/180 with my AF500FTZ is not significantly different
than
> the 1/250 of the PZ-1p or the 1/100 of the ZX-5n
>
> The data imprinting will be a big help, especially since I shoot about 90%
> negative film.
>
> The hotshoe adapter for the PZ-1p will work with the MZ-S for contrast
> control flash whereas the same adapter doesn't allow the RTF to fully
extend
> with the ZX-5n.
>
> The user interface seems to be much easier than with the PZ-1p.
>
> Downside:
>
> The only thing I've determined so far that I don't like is having to
obtain
> a new electronic cable release.  The cable release I have worked on both
the
> ZX-5n and PZ-1p, but the MZ-S has a different socket.  Anybody need a
ZX/PZ
> cable release?
>
> Bill, KG4LOV
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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August PUG favourites from Cotty

2001-08-13 Thread Cotty

Hi gang,

Back from the delights of North Wales walking up some tall mountains and 
drinking some Fiddler's Elbow (took it with me from the Cotswolds for my 
sister's bloke...) I finally got chance to sit down in front of the 
PowerMac and look at the August PUG.

Here's my favourites (from scribbles on paper):

Lights of Hong Kong
by Henry Chu
Lovely composition, very nice colour and feel to it.

Arch at Night
by Tiger Moses
Good shot!

City Lights
by Gary Murphy
Simply: I like it.

In The Pub
by Matjal Osojnik
Great people shot, which I love, but unless the candles on the left are 
the 'Alternate Light', I can't understand its inclusion here!  Love the 
shot though.

Memory
By Luis Pinar
A sombre reminder of the freedom some of us take for granted. A haunting 
image. Excellent.

Neon Glow
by William Robb
Tied best of the bunch (see later). Bloody good. 'Nuff said, dammitt.

Mountain Goat
by Paul Stenquist
Great narrative with a belting shot. Love it.

Red and Green Cross
by Arnold Stark
A beautiful image that best fits the August PUG category - ties for top 
honours with Admiral Robb up there. Stunning. Well done!

The Broken Fence
by William Johnson
Another haunting image that works well.

I spent an hour and a half looking. The rest are all extremely high 
standard, as usual (except mine of course!) and so congrats on that, and 
thanks to the PUGsters who put it all together. It's like being back at 
school again, knowing there's a deadline to meet, and standards to 
achieve...

Cheers,

Cotty

___
Personal email traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
MacAds traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Check out the UK Macintosh ads 
www.macads.co.uk


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A Conversation

2001-08-13 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

I went into Midwest today & met a nice gentleman.  He was shopping around
for a 28/2 for his FE.  We talked about photography (what else).  He shot
a Spotmatic in the 60s.  His face would light up at the mere mention of
SMC Taks, the 105/2.8 and the 85/1.9.  (He said that the 85mm on his Spotmatic
was sharper than any of his Nikon or Leica lenses of the same vintage.)
His reason for leaving Pentax was multi-fold:  He liked the feel of the longer
advance stroke on the older bodies, lost on the later K/M bodies.
The K bodies just didn't feel good to him.  The M lenses just weren't up to
the older lenses' quality.  So he got his FM2.

Collin

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><

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Pentax Battery Grip BG-10

2001-08-13 Thread Grigolia

 I just received my new Battery Grip BG-10 from Adorama in NYC!!!
 First impressions: Light, solid, wonderful finish, excellent ergonomic 
design!  Easy to install.  For those of us with larger than normal hands the 
MZ-S/BG-10 configuration seems a natural fit.  In fact, after ten minutes of 
shooting I can't imagine using the MZ-S without the battery grip!
 If Pentax is indeed designing an updated LX, I recommend they include 
the vertical release and molded grip of the BG-10 as part of the standard LX 
II camera design!
 Alexander Grigolia
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Re: Aurora Borealis shooting (WAS: Re: LX OTF metering, useful to you?)

2001-08-13 Thread Doug Franklin

On Mon, 13 Aug 2001 23:20:05 +0200, P†l Jensen wrote:

> Jim Zuckerman tells in one of his books that he uses "chemical
> heating" for his MF camera and tape it to the camera back. What
> the hell is that? Where can it be found?

Could he be talking about those little "keep warm" packets that you can
get at camping stores?  You know, the little bags that you squeeze to
break a container inside, then it generates heat for a couple of hours
... sort of like a Cyalume stick for heat instead of light.

TTYL, DougF

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RE: Rejoin & Critique

2001-08-13 Thread Frits J. Wüthrich

> a picture for your comments:
>
> http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=320791
>
> Rapture/Jason Kiew
Very nice one, would do it also very good in the PUG. Remember, you have
till 20 August for your admission.

Frits

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Re: Most Productive Gear?

2001-08-13 Thread Artur Ledóchowski


- Original Message -
From: "Paul Jones" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Most Productive Gear?

| What is your most productive body and lense combo?

MZ-7 + SMC M 50/2 or SMC F 35-80/4-5,6
Greetz
Artur


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Re: 85mm FA* 1.4; comments

2001-08-13 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Amy Hughes wrote:

> I suspect you wouldn't use the 77 for 
> anything you wouldn't use the 85 for. 

Each lens has different characteristics, so, while their focal lengths
may be similar, IMO, they have different "fingerprints" and qualities,
and, IMO, are not interchangeable.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
" ? "
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Re: 85mm FA* 1.4; comments

2001-08-13 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Amy Hughs said:

> I suspect you wouldn't use the 77 for 
> anything you wouldn't use the 85 for. 
> You might carry it because it's small, 
> though, but I leave it at home because 
> it's expensive.

Hi Amy,

While I understand your desire to preserve your expensive gear, pray
tell, what do you use the lens for if you leave it at home?  Do you
leave your expensive camera at home too, perhaps so your lens doesn't
feel lonely ?  

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"Why should I use a meter?  What if the darn thing broke on me
when I was out making a photograph? Then what would I do?"
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Re: carbon black & coatings

2001-08-13 Thread Scooterman

Thanks guys.. U2 Bob (RELAX man. You'll pop a gasket) 

Shel brought up coatings.
I was at Dimitrov's PENTAX page & under Non-SMC lenses he touched on
Cosmicar & it's CCT heritage. specificly mentioning it's lack of the
7-layer SMC coating.

IIRC  the whole reason I got that lens (in '85) was the written hype
over how it had a superior coating (not SMC, granted).

The body says CPC Phase2 CCT Macro Zoom 70-200mm f1:4 & has Cosmicar
stamped near the base on the ring. It's all metal & has been one of the
first lenses I usually grab (not that I have a whole bunch to begin with).

I don't get wood when I see pics from it, but I don't gripe either (peeps
looking at the pics keep saying I ought to go Pro... but what do they
know?). Knowing what I know now, I wouldn't go out & BUY this lens today
... but any idea if this thing is decently coated or not???
It "seems" to be from the colors & the way it's held up (no scratches etc).
And side-by-side it's a damn good clone of the 70-210 SMC.

Just curious.
I seem to remember it being abt $240 in '85 not that it has Jack to do
with the price of rice in Siam.  
Proving (once again) ya get what you pay for.

Scoot
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Re: Wedding Photographer: The Lowliest Profession?

2001-08-13 Thread Jim Apilado

Interesting shot.  Did they want a shot like that?  As an occasional wedding
photographer myself, the one shot that I didn't want to take was one where
the groom was sitting on the john.  The groomsmen made me do it.
Jim A.

> From: tom <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 20:02:09 -0400
> To: PDML <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Wedding Photographer: The Lowliest Profession?
> 
> http://bigdayphoto.com/tom/images/heehee.jpg
> 
> On a side note, you'll be happy to know I mixed up a batch of PMK today
> without killing myself (thanks Mark).
> 
> tv
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RE: Zoom Lens Query

2001-08-13 Thread Peifer, William [OCDUS]

Shel wrote:
> A friend of mine has a ZX-7 fitted with a third-party 28~200
> consumer-grade zoom.  He would like to get a better quality zoom in
> the (approximately) 80~200 range.  His son is going to be performing
> at a club, and after checking the venue that focal range seems
> appropriate.  Here are the requirements:

> Excellent optics that will hold good definition and contrast with
> prints up to 16x20;

> Fastest glass possible with consideration to being able to easily
> hand-hold the lens or (perhaps) use on a monopod and provide
> reasonably good viewfinder brightness;

> Autofocus not necessary but could be helpful;

> Price is a secondary concern, but not irrelevant.

Hi Shel,

Don't know if you need any more help on this, but for what it's worth, I
echo the sentiments of a few others on the list in endorsing the SMC-A
70-210/4.  I've got a couple of images scanned from 4x6 prints I had taken
soon after acquiring this lens.  One of these is a previous PUG submission
and can be found at http://pug.komkon.org/01may/BMX.html.  Not the best
photo I've taken recently, and not a terribly good scan, but it may give you
an idea of what one can do -- maybe a worst-case scenario?  :-)  -- with
this lens hand-held.  The shot is pretty heavily cropped and represents
about a 2x3 area of the original 4x6 print.  This was shot from a distance
of perhaps 70 to 100 feet (??) or so IIRC.  Ambient lighting in this shot is
possibly similar to what you might encounter in some parts of a nightclub.
Didn't mention this in the comments, but I used a Sunpak 433D flash.  The
other shot I can show you is an entirely different theme -- this one an
uncropped, scanned image from another 4x6 print, taken indoors with bounced
flash from a distance of about 8 or 10 feet at 210mm and f/4 IIRC.  I don't
have this second one posted anywhere, but could e-mail it to you if you'd
like to take a look.  This second one might give you a better feel for
edge-to-edge resolution (excellent), light fall-off (very little, as you
might expect at 210mm), etc.

I've got some more recent shots from a youth tee-ball game in which I
supported camera and lens on a Bogen 3218 monopod.  These were taken
outdoors in the very early evening (around dusk), mostly at f/5.6 or f/8.
Don't have any of these scanned, but I was really pleased with resolution
and color rendition and saturation (even on the 4x6 prints!).  I wouldn't
hesitate enlarging these to 16x20.

Hope this helps.

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY

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RE: AF080C

2001-08-13 Thread Rob Brigham

Was this a portrait of Homer S?

-Original Message-
From: dave o'brien [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: 13 August 2001 15:08
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: AF080C


Hi list, 

I've just picked up an AF080C ring flash for macro for HKD 1,000 (~USD
130).  I can't find much info on the web about it, just Boz's K-mount
page.

Does anyone have any more info on it?  maybe an operating manual?
(Although it seems quite straightforward.)

Already managed to get a portrait with doughnut shaped highlights in
the eyes...

dave

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Re: USM Lenses (Re: Is Pentax About to Release New Lenses?)

2001-08-13 Thread dave o'brien

A scroll of mail from Pål Jensen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on Sun, 12
Aug 2001 15:41:52 +0200
Read it? y
> But this would make the camera AF motor to spin and make noise taking
> away the main benefit of USM; silent operation. All the camera needs
> to know is that an USM lens is mounted. This can easily be achieved
> with the current info transfer between lens and body. When such a
> lens is mounted it will disengage the camera AF motor. 

But this is only for new bodies which recognise this.  Older bodies
will still spin the AF screw.  This will probably not be as noisy as
powering a lens from it, as the screw will be under minimal load.

This is sort of my point - the ability to take USM lenses is already
there and it wouldn't require any camera mods to work.  Of course it
would work *better* with a body designed specifically to do it, but
you'll still be able to stick your FA*USM lens on an LX, PZ, or MZ
body and have it work as well as that body can drive it.

dave

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Re: Most Productive Gear?

2001-08-13 Thread Nicholas Wright

Well, my most productive must be the pz1p with 28-70/4. That's the combo 
that's ready to go in my bag at all times, coming in close second would be
the same body with my 80-200/4. The only other body that I currently own
would be the k1000 although I use it ~almost~ equally with the z1p. Least
used lens would definetly be the m28/2.8.

Nick
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Re: lamp black??

2001-08-13 Thread Bob Blakely

Where in the hell did you get the absurd idea that we were talking about
scratches? Are you using some kind of lame software that prevents you from
attaching the quote that you're attacking for reference?

Carbon black is an order of magnitude softer than the coatings on your
lenses. It will not abrade them. As to the glass, the hardest substance on
the face of the earth is diamond, followed by quartz, followed by glass. The
idea that uncrystalized loose aggregates of carbon atoms would scratch glass
is laughable. Diamond may be a crystalline form of carbon, but non
crystalline carbon is quite another thing. Uncrystalized carbon (from soot
or whatever) is way down the list.

You cannot remove scratches with carbon black. Period. If what one has is a
scratch, only replacement of the element will cure the problem. Carbon black
will remove many residues adhering to the surface of a lens. Further, it
will absorb some oils which are otherwise nearly impossible to remove. The
"cleaning marks" that looked like scratches that I removed from my lens
were, in reality, not scratches. They were residue similar to mineral water
marks. The coating on the rear element was completely unharmed as revealed
by an even, unperturbed reflection of the original color from the coating.

Carbon black has been used by photographers from Mathew Brady on. This is
not some new invention of mine. I used the carbon black on the advice of a
Pentax trained technician.

Regards,
Bob...

From: "Scooterman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> I'm coming late to this thread... so excuse me while I catch up.
>
> Why in the world would one want to use this stuff on their $200-$3,000
> lens?? To remove scratches???

You can't. Bad cleaning can, however
> It's an abrasive for sure. Sounds like it's finer than Jewlers Rouge or
> 3,000 grit diamond polish (hard to find lately).
>
> But the last time I checked, most folks aren't proficient at
> grinding/polishing glass plus it's still in the body, so you'll get a
> falling off on the polish job at the edges.
>
> And how can one get a lens so deeply scratched that they'd attempt such a
> "repair" theirself??  I saw the posts where some people can't touch a
> camera unless they play Rugby with it... but your favorite lens??
>
> For a source of lamp black... what's the problem with getting an el-cheapo
> kerosene oil lamp & smoke the chimney till ya have enough to do your deed?
> (I collect such lamps, & believe me, it don't take but a minute for em to
> smoke the glass). Which is why I have the questions I've rubbed the
> glass chimneys & that (cast) glass don't look a whit better for it.
>
> Does it have to be lamp black?? What about the "old trick" of using
> newsprint on your car windows? Granted, it's an old trick because today's
> papers don't have much (if any) residual ink on em ... and the fiber
> content (rag) is probably so low that's it's akin to your old polyester
> pants.
>
> I dunno about some of the stuff I read on here usually, I can get by
> with a lipstick brush & a good, clean, cotton handkerchief... & maybe the
> moisture from my breath (not spit).
>
> Scratching his head in Detroit
> Scoot
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Re: Most Productive Gear?

2001-08-13 Thread Ann Sanfedele


OK, I'll play.

> 
> On Mon, 13 Aug 2001, Paul Jones wrote:
> 
> > What is your most productive body and lense combo?
> 
LX or KX with 50 mm f1.4

(100 macro a close second on the lens)

> > Whats your least productive body and lense combo, which really should
> > have been productive.

400 mm tele. A gorgeous lens but I couldn't get a sharp shot
even with fast
film without it's collar on on the tripod to save my soul. 
Even with the
tripod it was hard on me to get the focus right. I
eventually sold it
on ebay - in fact, it was the first thing I sold on ebay
almost 3 years ago.


I thought if I put the 400 mm on my ZX-5 I'd get 4 100 mm
lenses, but even in 
dark storage they never produced. Bummer.

ann "I just can't resist a wisecrack" san
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Re: Problems and Complaints

2001-08-13 Thread Albano_Garcia


K1000: Used it some months. Flawless.

MX: Used it for about a year. At the end it started with erratic working
meter and one gross frames overlap.

LX 1: Problem related to battery juice. 90 usd repair. Working great now.

LX 2: Bought to list member. The bumpers are degradated (the circular one
is not more circular, and was surrounded by a sticky fluid). The focus at
infinity is somewhat off. It's noticeable with ultrawides and less with
wides. The pictures come out apparently right but I 'm not fully sure about
it. I know sticky mirror will show up soon.

Lenses: All flawless

Albano


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AF080C

2001-08-13 Thread dave o'brien

Hi list, 

I've just picked up an AF080C ring flash for macro for HKD 1,000 (~USD
130).  I can't find much info on the web about it, just Boz's K-mount
page.

Does anyone have any more info on it?  maybe an operating manual?
(Although it seems quite straightforward.)

Already managed to get a portrait with doughnut shaped highlights in
the eyes...

dave

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Re: Pictures are lame

2001-08-13 Thread Rodger Whitlock

On Sun, 12 Aug 2001 at 15:10:31 -0400, Tom Rittenhouse 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I suggest that folks do their editing in the view finder. If you
> don't see a picture there, it is for sure there won't be one on the
> film.

Food for thought! I've been cogitating rather hard lately over why my 
photographs barely qualify as "snapshots" for the most part, and your 
remark is the most to-the-point advice I can imagine.

But then I look at my beloved sister's snapshots taken with a 
throwaway and wonder if she even knew there was a view finder! Most 
of them look like she aimed the thing in the general direction of the 
subject and pressed the button without looking through the finder at 
all.


-- 
Rodger Whitlock
Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
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tele photo lens FA 600 f 4

2001-08-13 Thread Jermann Dieter

Hi list 

I'm new on this list, (I normally use Contax) I'm interested on the FA 600 f4,0 tele 
photo lens. Any Comments ?

cheers Dieter

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Re: lamp black??

2001-08-13 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Well, Scoot, carbon black is good stuff for cleaning - not polishing -
lenses.  It's softer than glass and the coatings used on most
contemporary lenses, so it won't scratch 'em.  Newer lenses with high
quality coatings can withstand a lot of "abuse" and pentax coatings
are amongst the most durable in the world.  But back to carbon black
... the stuff that's been discussed is not lamp black, per your
explanation of it.  Lamp black contains contaminants that pure carbon
black does not contain.

Just to put this in perspective, there's a wonderful little item
called a Lens Pen, which is made/marketed by several companies
(including Kodak) which has a brush on one end and a small tool for
applying carbon black on the other. It's a great way to get crud off
one's lens.  I keep one in my Domke bag at all times.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"Why should I use a meter?  What if the darn thing broke on me
when I was out making a photograph? Then what would I do?"

Scooterman wrote:
> 
> I'm coming late to this thread... so excuse me while I catch up.
> 
> Why in the world would one want to use this stuff on their $200-$3,000
> lens?? To remove scratches???
> 
> It's an abrasive for sure. Sounds like it's finer than Jewlers Rouge or
> 3,000 grit diamond polish (hard to find lately).
> 
> But the last time I checked, most folks aren't proficient at
> grinding/polishing glass plus it's still in the body, so you'll get a
> falling off on the polish job at the edges.
> 
> And how can one get a lens so deeply scratched that they'd attempt such a
> "repair" theirself??  I saw the posts where some people can't touch a
> camera unless they play Rugby with it... but your favorite lens??
> 
> For a source of lamp black... what's the problem with getting an el-cheapo
> kerosene oil lamp & smoke the chimney till ya have enough to do your deed?
> (I collect such lamps, & believe me, it don't take but a minute for em to
> smoke the glass). Which is why I have the questions I've rubbed the
> glass chimneys & that (cast) glass don't look a whit better for it.
> 
> Does it have to be lamp black?? What about the "old trick" of using
> newsprint on your car windows? Granted, it's an old trick because today's
> papers don't have much (if any) residual ink on em ... and the fiber
> content (rag) is probably so low that's it's akin to your old polyester
> pants.
> 
> I dunno about some of the stuff I read on here usually, I can get by
> with a lipstick brush & a good, clean, cotton handkerchief... & maybe the
> moisture from my breath (not spit).
> 
> Scratching his head in Detroit
> Scoot
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Re: Enabled

2001-08-13 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

DON'T DO IT!
Unless you spend >$1000 each, you won't get lenses that
will compare to those 6x7 Mamiya and Pentax lenses!
Unless of course your old RB lenses are Pre-C, then
just upgrade them.  That'll be cheaper.

jmnsho,

Collin

>From: "David A. Mann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Enabled
>
>
>Maybe I'll ditch 6x7 entirely and get a 4x5 system with a 6x9
>back.
>
>Cheers,
>
>- - Dave


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><

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RE: Pic O' The Week

2001-08-13 Thread Peifer, William [OCDUS]

Dan Scott wrote:
> Very cinematic. Who's that guy, why is he so scary, and what's
> going to happen when he gets down here?

Must be the Wal-Mart plain-clothes security guard, coming to tell you that
you're not allowed to take photographs inside the store without a signed
release from corporate headquarters.  :-P

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY

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Re: lamp black??

2001-08-13 Thread Scooterman

I'm coming late to this thread... so excuse me while I catch up.

Why in the world would one want to use this stuff on their $200-$3,000
lens?? To remove scratches???

It's an abrasive for sure. Sounds like it's finer than Jewlers Rouge or 
3,000 grit diamond polish (hard to find lately). 

But the last time I checked, most folks aren't proficient at
grinding/polishing glass plus it's still in the body, so you'll get a
falling off on the polish job at the edges.

And how can one get a lens so deeply scratched that they'd attempt such a
"repair" theirself??  I saw the posts where some people can't touch a
camera unless they play Rugby with it... but your favorite lens??

For a source of lamp black... what's the problem with getting an el-cheapo
kerosene oil lamp & smoke the chimney till ya have enough to do your deed?
(I collect such lamps, & believe me, it don't take but a minute for em to
smoke the glass). Which is why I have the questions I've rubbed the
glass chimneys & that (cast) glass don't look a whit better for it.

Does it have to be lamp black?? What about the "old trick" of using
newsprint on your car windows? Granted, it's an old trick because today's
papers don't have much (if any) residual ink on em ... and the fiber
content (rag) is probably so low that's it's akin to your old polyester
pants.

I dunno about some of the stuff I read on here usually, I can get by
with a lipstick brush & a good, clean, cotton handkerchief... & maybe the
moisture from my breath (not spit).

Scratching his head in Detroit
Scoot
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Re: LX OTF metering, useful to you?

2001-08-13 Thread Aaron Reynolds



Bruce Dayton wrote:
> It
> sounds like the rule of thumb is if you shoot lots of low light stuff, the
> OTF is very valuable, but if you are shooting brighter stuff, it is no
> better than any other center weighted meter.  Does that sound right to you
> LX owners?

Sounds about right.  Of course, it's been better for my brighter stuff
than anything else I've used to date, but that ain't sayin' all that
much. ;)

I actually left the LX on auto for the whole weekend at Goat Island,
only dialing in exposure compensation for a couple of backlit
subjects...and wow, it did great.  I think I'll be leaving it on auto
more and more often.

-Aaron

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Re: Zoom Lens Query

2001-08-13 Thread Aaron Reynolds



Shel Belinkoff wrote:

> Excellent optics that will hold good definition and contrast with
> prints up to 16x20;
> 
> Fastest glass possible with consideration to being able to easily
> hand-hold the lens or (perhaps) use on a monopod and provide
> reasonably good viewfinder brightness;

>  Another possibility is loaning him a
> second body and the A*200/2.8 in addition to the M75~150, but it may
> be cumbersome for him to handle two cameras.

When I go club-shooting, I just take the A*200mm f2.8 , 50mm f1.4 and a
few wides...the 200 for shooting from the middle/back of the crowd, and
the wides for shooting right up at the stage, the 50mm for if it's real
real real dark.  With the A*, I usually shoot wide open, on a monopod,
1/30 sec with film pushed to whatever speed is needed, most clubs being
1600 to 6400, but if you're going to the Snooty Fox or the Hudson in
Hamilton you'll need 12,800 or more, cuz it's darker than dark in there. ;)

Anyone who's been to the shop has seen the 16x20 up on the wall shot
this way (it's Delta 3200 pushed to 12,800, so I wanted to make a
big-ish print to really see how grainy it was).  It isn't tack sharp,
but that's more movement than anything else.  Viewed at regular viewing
distance, it's great.

I've got a couple of scans of this stuff online, so if you want to see
the results I can send you a link.

Anyhow, my advice is forget the zooms, take that A* 200mm f2.8 and a
50mm f1.4 and maybe a wide or two.

-Aaron


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Re: Enabled

2001-08-13 Thread Aaron Reynolds



Doug Brewer wrote:
>  My dream set up is still the 67II and the old SMC Tak 200/4.

Is that lens any good?  I passed one up for $200 (Canadian, that's like
$125 US or so) because I'm mostly into wides, it was older, the minimum
focus was worse than the 105 f2.4, and I didn't really have a loose $200.

-Aaron

p.s. congrats, Brian, on the 67!  Enjoy it, and welcome to the world of
big negs.


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Re: Carbon Black

2001-08-13 Thread Bob Blakely

I have toyed with calligraphy, having practiced many years. Ink is basically
pigment (usually carbon black or various salts of iron for black) plus water
plus a binder (almost always a gum arabic , shellac, etc). There may be
other additives. For cleaning camera lenses, we don't want the water,
binder(s) or any other additives. We want nearly pure, ultra fine carbon
powder.

Regards,
Bob...

From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> In a message dated 13/08/01 12:10:48 GMT Daylight Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> << If what you are talking about is some sort of
>  oriental stick ink, don't use it. It has a binder of some type in it.
Carbon
>  (or bone, or lamp) black has no binder. It is not powdered or stick ink.
DO
>  NOT USE ORIENTAL STICK INKS.
>   >>
> Ok, then, I won't. Even I can get the powder not from stick - that won't
have
> a binding agent, do you think?
>  Shuji is a fine art - calligraphy I think is the generic name - one must
> practise many years to obtain license.
>  I think Mr Ueda can tell you more about this, if you need to know.
>
> Kind regards
>
> Peter


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PUG comments (or lack thereof)

2001-08-13 Thread Luis Pinar

Hi all
Sorry, but I won´t be able to comment on my assigned
photos. My computer at work doesn´t let me see the
full size images anymore, and there´s no way to fix
this right now. Anyway, from the thumbnails, I can say
we have a very nice August PUG!
Luis

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Re: FA-1 finder innards, final resolution.

2001-08-13 Thread Steve Larson

Cesar, as long as it works, that`s all that counts!
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message -
From: "Matamoros, Cesar A." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 5:36 AM
Subject: RE: FA-1 finder innards, final resolution.


> Steve,
>
> Yes I did.  There are four washers total and I got two of them where
> I think they belog.  WIth everything loose I did not feel like taking
> another FA-1 to see where everything went.  I used and reused the dial and
> shook the finder about to see if there was an apparent placing for the spare
> washers.
>
> Thanks for the enabling, well at least it is not as expensive as the
> 77 I ordered.
>
> César Matamoros II
> Panama City, Florida
>
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Steve Larson [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> > Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2001 9:43 AM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: FA-1 finder innards, final resolution.
> >
> > Cesar, did you really have parts left over? I`m glad you got it working!
> > I enable you for the FA-2. Simple eh?
> > Steve Larson
> > Redondo Beach, California
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "Matamoros, Cesar A." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: "'Pentax'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Friday, August 10, 2001 8:41 AM
> > Subject: FA-1 finder innards, final resolution.
> >
> >
> > > Thank you Steve L. for giving me the encouragement to take the FA-1
> > > apart.  The rattle was the diopter correcting glass.  It was fun taking
> > the
> > > whole assembly apart.  H, how do all these washers go back in?  Is
> > it
> > > efficiency if you have parts left over?
> > >
> > > I ended up having to do three trial runs of placement of the diopter
> > > glass and the gearing for the diopter dial, but the finder is now
> > allowing
> > > me to focus properly.  It is great having a couple of extra finders to
> > check
> > > your work.
> > >
> > > Thanks again, but how do I talk myself back into getting an FA-2?
> > > Wait a minute, with this group enabling is always just a keystroke away.
> > I
> > > only have the three FA-1s, so I really should get the FA-2, I rarely use
> > the
> > > hotshoe since I normally use the AF400T with them.
> > >
> > > César Matamoros II
> > > Panama City, Florida
> > >
> > > P.S.  By the way, I was in a restaurant and decided to try out the AF on
> > the
> > > MZ-S with the 77 on a neon sign up on a wall.  I basically just placed
> > the
> > > camera on the table for support and roughly pointed it in the proper
> > > direction and fired.  Nice shot.
> > > I put the 77 on the LX and did the same placement, THEN, I took off
> > > the finder and composed and focused using the focusing screen.  Nice
> > shot!
> > > It is probably only the third time I have ever done that.  Nowadays
> > people
> > > just look at you and say REMOVABLE finder?
> > >
> > >
> >
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RE: Most productive - how about the most Fun

2001-08-13 Thread admin

"Most fun" is definitely a more fun question. Not to mention easier to answer!

For me, an MZ with my Sigma 18-35 zoom is the "most fun" combo.

-- 
Mark Roberts
www.robertstech.com



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Re: Welcome to pentax-discuss

2001-08-13 Thread Chris Brogden

On Mon, 13 Aug 2001, William Robb wrote:

> I understand only 6 MZ-S cameras were brought in to Western
> Canada.  The
> > Pentax rep has one... so only 5 went into retailers.  You have
> one, I have one
> > and I wonder where the other 3 are?
> 
> Don's Photo in Regina brought one in for me to have a look at. I
> don't know if they still have it. It may have been the reps
> camera FAIK
> William Robb

Nope, that was ours.  I'm not sure about the "6" figure.  Either Manitoba
and Saskatchewan don't count as western provinces, or we got at least 3 or
4 out of the 6, which is unlikely.

chris

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Re: LX OTF metering, useful to you?

2001-08-13 Thread HUDERER Bernd

Hi,

consider a lens with a slowly closing aperture or a 3rd party lens which has
a poor aperture simulation function. The LX will produce pictures with
correct amount of light ! A camera without OTF can't do that.

I had myself the bug with the slow aperture blades. The meter showed 1/60
but the shot was much faster detected from the sound. It took some time
until I found the reason: the aperture blades closed down only a bit up to
the time when the shutter is open. With another camera I could forget about
the shot, but with the LX only the DOF was smaller than planned.

regards
Bernd


Tonghang Zhou wrote:
...
> But I don't
> understand why the OTF metering is that useful, considering
> especially how much this feature costs in the Olympus OM
> cameras.
...

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RE: Aurora Borealis shooting (WAS: Re: LX OTF metering, useful to you?)

2001-08-13 Thread Jostein Oksne

Michel,
The time window of darkness without moon is definately short between half
moons. But why give up a good night completely?

What latitude do you live at, btw?
Jostein

> -Original Message-
> From: Michel Adam [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
[...]
> As for the moon, do you have a trick? I'd like to increase 
> the number of
> nights I can shoot,
> but I find that the moon washes out the sky in no time at 
> all, and have
> resorted to simply
> not shoot between half moons.
###

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Re: Most Productive Gear?

2001-08-13 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

most used presently:
Pentax ME Super, w Tokina ATX 80-200/2.8.

Made the most money with:
Mamiya Universal, w 100/2.8, Polaroid and 6x7 backs is a toss up with
Polaroid ID-2, neither of which I have any longer.

Least used:
Ricohflex (never, and I can't think why that is).

--Tom
 


> Paul Jones wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Since we have been having a trend of user surveys/questions, I have
> one.
> 
> What is your most productive body and lense combo?
> 
> Also:
> 
> Whats your least productive body and lense combo, which really should
> have been productive.
> 
> My most productive combo is: Spotmatic SP and Super Takumar 55/1.8
> 
> 
> Cyas

-- 
Tom "Graywolf" Rittenhouse
Graywolf Photo, Charlotte, NC, USA
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RE: FA-1 finder innards, final resolution.

2001-08-13 Thread Matamoros, Cesar A.

Steve,

Yes I did.  There are four washers total and I got two of them where
I think they belog.  WIth everything loose I did not feel like taking
another FA-1 to see where everything went.  I used and reused the dial and
shook the finder about to see if there was an apparent placing for the spare
washers.

Thanks for the enabling, well at least it is not as expensive as the
77 I ordered.

César Matamoros II
Panama City, Florida


> -Original Message-
> From: Steve Larson [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2001 9:43 AM
> To:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject:  Re: FA-1 finder innards, final resolution.
> 
> Cesar, did you really have parts left over? I`m glad you got it working!
> I enable you for the FA-2. Simple eh?
> Steve Larson
> Redondo Beach, California
> - Original Message -
> From: "Matamoros, Cesar A." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "'Pentax'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2001 8:41 AM
> Subject: FA-1 finder innards, final resolution.
> 
> 
> > Thank you Steve L. for giving me the encouragement to take the FA-1
> > apart.  The rattle was the diopter correcting glass.  It was fun taking
> the
> > whole assembly apart.  H, how do all these washers go back in?  Is
> it
> > efficiency if you have parts left over?
> >
> > I ended up having to do three trial runs of placement of the diopter
> > glass and the gearing for the diopter dial, but the finder is now
> allowing
> > me to focus properly.  It is great having a couple of extra finders to
> check
> > your work.
> >
> > Thanks again, but how do I talk myself back into getting an FA-2?
> > Wait a minute, with this group enabling is always just a keystroke away.
> I
> > only have the three FA-1s, so I really should get the FA-2, I rarely use
> the
> > hotshoe since I normally use the AF400T with them.
> >
> > César Matamoros II
> > Panama City, Florida
> >
> > P.S.  By the way, I was in a restaurant and decided to try out the AF on
> the
> > MZ-S with the 77 on a neon sign up on a wall.  I basically just placed
> the
> > camera on the table for support and roughly pointed it in the proper
> > direction and fired.  Nice shot.
> > I put the 77 on the LX and did the same placement, THEN, I took off
> > the finder and composed and focused using the focusing screen.  Nice
> shot!
> > It is probably only the third time I have ever done that.  Nowadays
> people
> > just look at you and say REMOVABLE finder?
> >
> >
> 
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Re: Problems and Complaints

2001-08-13 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

And that is the problem with electronic based cameras. Anyone want to
guess the price of a one-off integrated circuit?

There are no aftermarket parts for the same reason you can not get them
for your Ferrari, the market is too small to make it worth while. For
mechanical cameras I could direct you to a couple of places that will
fabricate parts for you if you are willing to pay for them.

Ces de vive,
--Tom


Takehiko Ueda wrote:

> Maybe the patent problem?  Anyway, in the case of the LX,
> Pentax claims that the main reason for stopping its
> production is difficulty in securing the parts, especially
> electronic ones.  After considering the ten years, they had
> to decide to stop producing.

-- 
Tom "Graywolf" Rittenhouse
Graywolf Photo, Charlotte, NC, USA
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Re: Aurora Borealis shooting (WAS: Re: LX OTF metering, useful to you?)

2001-08-13 Thread Michel Adam

I meant to say that the presence of the moon washes out the sky where the aurora 
display
is taking place, and I cant get decent dark sky then. I dont think there is anything
that can be done about it.

It can certainly improve the landscape lighting, but the conditions must be just right 
(moon
at your back, reasonably low on the horizon, with the aurora happening on the other 
side
of the sky.

Michel

- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Rapp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 5:32 AM
Subject: Re: Aurora Borealis shooting (WAS: Re: LX OTF metering, useful to you?)


Re "shooting the moon"
The moon is illuminated by the same light as the earth. The "F16" rule
applies. Add a 1/2 stop increase for moon rise and fall. For moon scapes
expose first for the moon then block the moon and make a second exposure
using the OTF.

- Original Message -
From: "Michel Adam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 7:13 PM
Subject: RE: Aurora Borealis shooting (WAS: Re: LX OTF metering, useful to
you?)

[...]

> As for the moon, do you have a trick? I'd like to increase the number of
> nights I can shoot,
> but I find that the moon washes out the sky in no time at all, and have
> resorted to simply
> not shoot between half moons.
>


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Most productive - how about the most Fun

2001-08-13 Thread Bob Rapp

For me, productive means ease and flexibility of use. It is hard to go
past my LX with either a 28 or 35 mm lens.
However, the most fun comes from my old Spotmatics. It is kind of like
your first bike or your favourite blanket. The memories and my level of
creativity and adventure return when ever I pick one of the those gems up.
Hence my old FUNtax Spotmatic and 55 f1.8 lens.

Regards,

Bob Rapp
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: Aurora Borealis shooting (WAS: Re: LX OTF metering, useful to you?)

2001-08-13 Thread Bob Rapp

Re "shooting the moon"
The moon is illuminated by the same light as the earth. The "F16" rule
applies. Add a 1/2 stop increase for moon rise and fall. For moon scapes
expose first for the moon then block the moon and make a second exposure
using the OTF.

- Original Message -
From: "Michel Adam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 7:13 PM
Subject: RE: Aurora Borealis shooting (WAS: Re: LX OTF metering, useful to
you?)


>
> Would it not result in a more detailed, less 'diffuse' image of the aurora
> if the exposure
> was kept as short as possible, i.e. with the largest f-stop possible? At
245
> seconds,
> (that is over 4 minutes!), I have seen auroral curtains move half way
across
> the sky (actually,
> right off the frame when using a 15mm), and have had to resort to the 16mm
> fisheye on the LX,
> and the Arsat 30mm fisheye on the 645, all of them wide open.
>
> Being shot at infinity, using wide angles, this should take care of the
> foreground being in
> focus as well, even wide open, no?
>
> As for the moon, do you have a trick? I'd like to increase the number of
> nights I can shoot,
> but I find that the moon washes out the sky in no time at all, and have
> resorted to simply
> not shoot between half moons.
>
> When you mention pushing with E100VS, do you exceed 1 stop ? And do you
have
> any views on
> Elitechrome 200 ?
>
> As for the film flatness, I fear that cold temperatures will simply
> exacerbate the problems.
> One would need to keep the camera back warm without affecting the optics,
> assuming it makes
> a noticeable difference.
>
> Michel
>
> -Original Message-
> Subject: Aurora Borealis shooting (WAS: Re: LX OTF metering, useful to
> you?)
>
> > > Do you find it a problem that the city lights will shorten the
> > > exposure too much when trying to get the Aurora on film?
>
>
> Pål wrote:
>
> > I avoid city lights when shooting auroras. I prefer no signs of the
"hand
> of man" in
> > my pictures. I do, howewer, usually include parts of the landscape in my
> aurora
> > images; I treat it as landscape photography. I don't go for those grainy
> and fuzzy
> > aurora pictures usually published but aim for landscape images that can
> take enlargement.
>
> > > When not using the OTF metering, do you have a preferred routine
> > > for exposing, i.e. 5, 10, 15, 30 sec, f/1.4 sort of thing ?
>
> > I determine exposure by using the LX then dial in that exposure on my
> 645n. I use
> > exposure compensation on the LX; usually minus 2/3 stop because I don't
> want it to
> > look light daylight; you need the night feel. I does depend though on
how
> powerful
> > the Aurora is. If its very bright I might not compensate at all because
> the meter
> > treat it like any backlit subject and will give the desired
> "underexposure". The degree
> > of compensation depends of course on the reciprocity characteristics of
> the film.
> > I use the lens at F:4 because wider apertures don't give desired
> sharpness. The 645n
> > is a totall hit and miss (mostly miss) affair because of film flatness
> problems that
> > seems unsolveable (more of that in another post).
>
> >
> > > And which emulsion(s) do you find gives better results?
>
>
> > Kodak E100VS by a far margin. Give the most realistic colors due to its
> blue bias.
> > The Aurora is very green (usually) but our brains compensate for it. By
> using a more
> > neutral film the result is far greener than our brain experience the
> phenomena. The
> > Ektachrome E-emulsion also have excellent reciprocity chracteristics
also
> the way it
> > renders blue yields punchy images. It also reacts well to pushing. At
100
> ISO and F:4
> > shutter speed varies typically from 90s (full moon) to 245s.
>
>
> > Pål
>
>
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Re: Re[2]: 100mm Macro Lenses

2001-08-13 Thread gert . jan . bollen


Hi Alin,

Thanks for the Idea to use tape to disable the autofocus, my only worry is that the 
contacts are becomming durty.

Gert Jan Bollen



   Hi Gert,

   Place a duct tape on the lens mount over the autofocus shaft and
   the first contact near it, and your F 100/2.8 turns into an A
   100/2.8 featuring the focus trap capability.

   Servus, Alin

gert wrote:

gjbpc> I recently bought the SMC F 100mm 2,8. Yes I like the extra
gjbpc> speed and the AF for normal distance pictures, but the focus
gjbpc> trap does not work since you can not put the lens to manual
gjbpc> focusing!




Gert Jan Bollen


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Re: Carbon Black

2001-08-13 Thread Camdir

In a message dated 13/08/01 12:10:48 GMT Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< If what you are talking about is some sort of
 oriental stick ink, don't use it. It has a binder of some type in it. Carbon
 (or bone, or lamp) black has no binder. It is not powdered or stick ink. DO
 NOT USE ORIENTAL STICK INKS.
  >>
Ok, then, I won't. Even I can get the powder not from stick - that won't have 
a binding agent, do you think?
 Shuji is a fine art - calligraphy I think is the generic name - one must 
practise many years to obtain license.
 I think Mr Ueda can tell you more about this, if you need to know.

Kind regards

Peter
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Re: Zoom Lens Query

2001-08-13 Thread Jim Brooks

Various posters asked "How about the A70-210/4?"

Well, as some have already written, it's a fabulous lens. Nice handling and
build, very sharp indeed, and pleasant rendering of out-of-focus backgrounds
(and sometimes subjects but that's nothing to do with the lens!). In my
experience with it the fact that at 210mm it still gives f/4 is a
significant advantage when hand-holding. It even uses small 58mm filters (so
why not have a modern AF version with 58mm filter size?)

Regards
Jim



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Re: Enabled

2001-08-13 Thread Bob Rapp

Having had a 6X7, Hasselbald, Horseman 970, plus both field and monorail
4X5s and presently have a Horseman VHR with a 65 f4.5 Grandagon, 10 and 180
Sironar Ns, I would dearly rather have the old 6X7 or a newer 67 back. The
Horseman with 6X7 and 6X9 backs deliver some fantastic images and the view
camera like controls offers extreme controllability. However it is not as
connivent to use as the 6X7.
If Studio work is all you do, the RB is fine. However in the field, you
will find that RB stands for "Real Big / Real Bitch ". Like the 35s, the 6X7
is easy to keep clean and does not require the gentle loving care as those
cameras with leaf shutters.
As soon as I can find a buyer for the Horseman or at least the 65 and
180 lenses, I will get back into the 6X7 Pentax again. I will probably keep
the Horseman with the 100 mm lens as that is my primary lens. The 65 and 180
lenses were bought new had have only been used on 3 or 4 occasions.


- Original Message -
From: "David A. Mann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: Enabled


> Doug Brewer writes:
>
>
> > Man, I'm so envious. I've been trying to figure out how to get into 6X7.
I have
> > to admit to having even looked at other brands, just to get that big
negative.
> > (Note to Dave: Nope, don't want an RB67, thanks) My dream set up is
still the
> > 67II and the old SMC Tak 200/4. Maybe some day...
>
>  Damn... why not? :)  The RB is built like a tank, much like the old
Pentax 67
> only heavier, I think.  And once you've used the rotating back and
all-leaf-
> shutter lens system you'll never go back (until you can afford a 67II).
>
>  I'm still having trouble deciding between a 67II and a Mamiya RZ kit once
I've
> sold the RB.  Maybe I'll ditch 6x7 entirely and get a 4x5 system with a
6x9
> back.  Then I get the option of a huge slide, as well as control over
perspective
> and focal planes.
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> - Dave
>
> David A. Mann, B.E. (Elec)
> http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/
>
> "Why is it that if an adult behaves like a child they lock him up,
>  while children are allowed to run free on the streets?" -- Garfield
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FONG: WTB list

2001-08-13 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

Subject: WTB: Pentax SF-1N accessories
Date: 12 Aug 2001 15:59:19 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (B. Melick)
Newsgroups:  rec.photo.marketplace.35mm


I am looking for the following Asahi Pentax accessories for a Pentax
SF-1N SLR autofocus camera:

50mm 1:4 or 50mm 1:7 lens
fish-eye lens (possibly 17-28mm Fisheye zoom)
rubber eyecup
AA battery grip

Please e-mail me directly at [EMAIL PROTECTED] with condition and
prices. Thanks.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><

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Re: Most Productive Gear?

2001-08-13 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

At 01:15 AM 8/13/01 -0400, you wrote:
>From: "Paul Jones" <
>Subject: Most Productive Gear?

Most productive?
A50/1.4 on ZX-M
Least productive?
Canon G-III  (But definitely most practical in many instances)
Most fun & Most time-consuming?
Busch with 135/5.6 Schneider Symmar and 210 Ilex Caltar



* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><  <><

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Re: Most Productive Gear?

2001-08-13 Thread Antti-Pekka Virjonen

Hmmm... let me think...

My LX with the SMC 15/3.5 I think (or alternatively with the A* 300/2.8).

Antti-Pekka
---
* Antti-Pekka Virjonen * Fiskarsinkatu 7 D   * GSM: +358 400 789753 *
* Computec Oy Turku* FIN-20750 Turku Finland * Fax: +358 2 413  *

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Re: Carbon Black

2001-08-13 Thread Bob Blakely

I don't know what shugi is, but what we want here is nearly pure carbon in
as fine a powder as possible. If what you are talking about is some sort of
oriental stick ink, don't use it. It has a binder of some type in it. Carbon
(or bone, or lamp) black has no binder. It is not powdered or stick ink. DO
NOT USE ORIENTAL STICK INKS.

Regards,
Bob...

From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> In a message dated 12/08/01 04:53:02 GMT Daylight Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> << I bought it at a calligraphy store. It may be labeled lamp black or
bone
>  black. The smallest bottle will clean 10,000 lenses. If you spill it,
your
>  wife will divorce you. >>
>
> Might this be the same product as the one used when writing shuji?


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Re: LX OTF metering, useful to you?

2001-08-13 Thread Sas Gabor

Hi,

On 11 Aug 2001, at 19:13:17 -0700 (PDT), 
Tonghang Zhou wrote:
> I have some LXes and very pleased with them.  But I don't
> understand why the OTF metering is that useful, considering
> especially how much this feature costs in the Olympus OM
> cameras.

Have a look at my submission to the LX Gallery. 
It's a bit unusual shot for sure, but try to do it with any other
(built-into-camera) metering system.
 
> After all, almost every scence you expose is imperfect
> for an averaging meter.  They are not 18% grey throughout
> (or should it be 13%?)
> I often find myself having to set the exposure manually

My LX also has an exp. compensation dial on the left side of 
the top plate. What about Yours?

> So I guess I don't know how to take advantage of the OTF
> metering in non-flash photography.

AFAIK all TTL flash systems use OTF.
 
> Now, a spot meter which lets you hold the exposure, seems
> to make better sense.  Like the Z?-5n.

A different tool for different tasks. 



Gabor

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Re: Most Productive Gear?

2001-08-13 Thread PAUL STENQUIST

Most productive is my LX with Vivitar Series 1 90/2.5. (I do a lot of
portraiture and a lot of macro. This lens is superb for both.) My least
productive camera is my Spotmatic Motor Drive, but only because I choose
not to use it. It's a fine camera.
Paul

> Paul Jones wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Since we have been having a trend of user surveys/questions, I have
> one.
> 
> What is your most productive body and lense combo?
> 
> Also:
> 
> Whats your least productive body and lense combo, which really should
> have been productive.
> 
> My most productive combo is: Spotmatic SP and Super Takumar 55/1.8
> 
> 
> Cyas
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Re: Enabled

2001-08-13 Thread David A. Mann

Brian writes:

> the reasons I chose the 67II are, first, it
> FEELS right.  I can't get used to the Box style cameras (Mamiya, 
> Bronica, Hasselblad) - the shutter release is a bit strange for this
> former 35mm-only shooter.

 It does depend on how you use it.  I find the RB is easiest to use handheld 
without its left-hand grip no matter which viewfinder I'm using (waist level or 
prism).  With the grip it puts too much strain on the wrist due to its weight.

 However, mine spends 99% of its time on a tripod shooting landscapes.  In 
this case the rotating back is a godsend.  No need to unbalance the rig by 
tilting the head 90 degrees for portrait orientation.  And with the mirror locked 
up, the leaf shutters result in no chance of camera shake.

 I've given up on the idea of interchangeable backs because I shoot E100SW  
(or Provia 100F) all the time anyway.

>  Second, Cost.  The 67II with AE-II 
> metered prism finder (which I found to be very accurate) and 105mm
> F2.4 Lens is about the same cost as a Hassy body.  No finder, no
> backs, just the body.

 Yeah I know :)  Hassy stuff is unbelievably expensive.  I don't have prices for 
RZ gear handy but I think that's comparable to the 67II in price.

 I'm leaning very heavily toward a 67II because they are very popular down 
here and there is a ton of secondhand glass available.  Plus I'll be able to 
submit 6x7 to the PUG without bending the rules :)

Cheers,


- Dave

David A. Mann, B.E. (Elec)
http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/

"Why is it that if an adult behaves like a child they lock him up,
 while children are allowed to run free on the streets?" -- Garfield
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Re: Enabled

2001-08-13 Thread David A. Mann

RK writes:

> Hi David,
> Any thoughts on why Hasselblad (oops- forgot those asterisks!) is never mentioned in
> the discussion re moving up to medium format?

 Presumably because Pentax don't make a 6x6 so we don't talk about it much 
on this list :)

 Some people swear by the square format, others can't figure it out.  It's really 
up to you which you prefer.  If 6x6 is your thing then (apparently) Hasselblad 
is about as good as you can get.

Cheers,


- Dave

David A. Mann, B.E. (Elec)
http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/

"Why is it that if an adult behaves like a child they lock him up,
 while children are allowed to run free on the streets?" -- Garfield
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RE: Aurora Borealis shooting (WAS: Re: LX OTF metering, useful to you?)

2001-08-13 Thread Michel Adam


Would it not result in a more detailed, less 'diffuse' image of the aurora
if the exposure
was kept as short as possible, i.e. with the largest f-stop possible? At 245
seconds,
(that is over 4 minutes!), I have seen auroral curtains move half way across
the sky (actually,
right off the frame when using a 15mm), and have had to resort to the 16mm
fisheye on the LX,
and the Arsat 30mm fisheye on the 645, all of them wide open.

Being shot at infinity, using wide angles, this should take care of the
foreground being in
focus as well, even wide open, no?

As for the moon, do you have a trick? I'd like to increase the number of
nights I can shoot,
but I find that the moon washes out the sky in no time at all, and have
resorted to simply
not shoot between half moons.

When you mention pushing with E100VS, do you exceed 1 stop ? And do you have
any views on
Elitechrome 200 ?

As for the film flatness, I fear that cold temperatures will simply
exacerbate the problems.
One would need to keep the camera back warm without affecting the optics,
assuming it makes
a noticeable difference.

Michel

-Original Message-
Subject: Aurora Borealis shooting (WAS: Re: LX OTF metering, useful to
you?)

> > Do you find it a problem that the city lights will shorten the
> > exposure too much when trying to get the Aurora on film?


Pål wrote:

> I avoid city lights when shooting auroras. I prefer no signs of the "hand
of man" in
> my pictures. I do, howewer, usually include parts of the landscape in my
aurora
> images; I treat it as landscape photography. I don't go for those grainy
and fuzzy
> aurora pictures usually published but aim for landscape images that can
take enlargement.

> > When not using the OTF metering, do you have a preferred routine
> > for exposing, i.e. 5, 10, 15, 30 sec, f/1.4 sort of thing ?

> I determine exposure by using the LX then dial in that exposure on my
645n. I use
> exposure compensation on the LX; usually minus 2/3 stop because I don't
want it to
> look light daylight; you need the night feel. I does depend though on how
powerful
> the Aurora is. If its very bright I might not compensate at all because
the meter
> treat it like any backlit subject and will give the desired
"underexposure". The degree
> of compensation depends of course on the reciprocity characteristics of
the film.
> I use the lens at F:4 because wider apertures don't give desired
sharpness. The 645n
> is a totall hit and miss (mostly miss) affair because of film flatness
problems that
> seems unsolveable (more of that in another post).

>
> > And which emulsion(s) do you find gives better results?


> Kodak E100VS by a far margin. Give the most realistic colors due to its
blue bias.
> The Aurora is very green (usually) but our brains compensate for it. By
using a more
> neutral film the result is far greener than our brain experience the
phenomena. The
> Ektachrome E-emulsion also have excellent reciprocity chracteristics also
the way it
> renders blue yields punchy images. It also reacts well to pushing. At 100
ISO and F:4
> shutter speed varies typically from 90s (full moon) to 245s.


> Pål


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RE: Most Productive Gear?

2001-08-13 Thread Jostein Oksne

This depends largely on what I work with... Productivity is closely linked
to choosing the right tool for a task.

Lately I have done lots of flowers in cultural landscape, which means that
the 645 + 120 macro is the preferred combo.

The least used house these days must be the MX. Usually there's a M-100mm on
that one.

But ask again in half a year... If I'm in the middle of some astro project
the MX will probably be the most used.

Jostein
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Re: Most Productive Gear?

2001-08-13 Thread Philippe Trottier


Overall
55mm 1.8 Tak + Pentax SL + Wide angle / Tele adapter

Last 6 month
Pentax MX + Large back + Motor drive + 35 - 80mm 2.8 Tamron Macro 2:1

Least 
Pentax LX + Motor Drive + Digi Back-2 (Chinon) + 28mm


---






---


Hi,

at the moment I'm shooting mostly with a Leica M3 + 50mm Sumicron-M
lens.

I have a Pentax S1a and 55/1.8 lens which I haven't used for about 15
years.

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

"Remember, you push the shutter, 
 don't let the shutter push you"

--Walker Evans

Monday, August 13, 2001, 4:35:42 AM, you wrote:

> Hi,

> Since we have been having a trend of user surveys/questions, I have one.

> What is your most productive body and lense combo?

> Also:

> Whats your least productive body and lense combo, which really should have been 
>productive.

> My most productive combo is: Spotmatic SP and Super Takumar 55/1.8


> Cyas


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