Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-17 Thread Christine Nielsen
Mark, thank you very much for your thoughts.  It's encouraging to know
that you are able to make pttl work for you, even at close range...
Your comment:

On overcast cloudy days I may set the flash compensation to -3
 and the compensation on the camera body to -2.

Raises another question for me, though... How do the flash
compensation controls on the the flash and camera work together?  Or
separately, for that matter?  When applying compensation in both
places, it sounds from your description that they have a cumulative
effect (-5 EV?)...  As opposed to one set of controls taking
precedence over the other... Is this correct?  If using just the
compensation controls in one place or the other, is either more
effective?

Thanks again,
-c

On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 11:03 AM, Mark Cassino markcass...@ymail.com wrote:
 Hi Christine
 -
  I use
 fill PTTL fill flash in my macro shots all the time - virtually every shot 
 that
 I work with is shot with flash. No problems once you know how to adjust the
 flash etc. I shoot manually with the exposure usually set to the ambient meter
 reading or to -1/2 stop. The amount of fill needed is relative to the 
 primarily
 light source. In direct full brutal sun I shoot with no exposure compensation
 on the flash. On overcast cloudy days I may set the flash compensation to -3
 and the compensation on the camera body to -2. In some situations I have to
 resort to lowering the power on the flash by dropping the wide angle diffuser
 or putting a diffuser on it. But those cases are very low light situations
 where the subject is very close.
 After
 doing this for a while I now just know where to set things - just experiment a
 bit. Digital makes the technical end of photography so easy I use the same
 basic technique for macros, birds, and even outdoor portraits. For wildlife it
 is split second decision making and having the flash compensation in the body
 is a great asset. If you put the flash on a bracket or use a diffuser etc it
 just equates to a certain number of stops of compensation, so you just 
 consider
 that in your mental calculations... Like In this soft light I'd like to
 have -4 stops of compensation but that diffuser is equivalent to -2 so I'll
 just dial in -2.
 I'm working
 with the flash generally much closer than the minimum working distance - like
 the subject is 12 to 24 inches away - so overexposure is always a problem. 
 I've
 used the same basic setup with the Pz-1p (usually with slide film), *ist-D,
 K-10D, and now K7. Each camera had it's own quirks and I had to adjust the 
 exposure
 compensation for each. I find that I dial in much more negative compensation 
 with
 the K7 than I did with any of the other cameras.
 Good
 luck!
  MCC


 - Original Message -
 From: Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Cc:
 Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2011 11:11 AM
 Subject: Can we talk about fill flash  pttl?

 Last night, I attended a portrait workshop.  We were shooting at the
 beach, at the end of the day.  It was still very bright, and in the
 shade of a lighthouse, some fill was required on our models' faces.
 No problem.  I had the AF540 on my k-7...using aperture priority mode,
 and -1.5 Flash EV, I took some shots.  Gah.  Way overexposed.  I
 fiddled, set the flash to high-speed sync, and tried again.  Still
 hot.  I proceeded to try several other manipulations... none really
 working, until I settled on a fully manual operation for exposure, and
 flash (1/16).

 It shouldn't have to be this way, though, right?  I should be able to
 use pttl to provide (more or less) the right amount of fill, yes? I'm
 even pretty sure I've done it successfully in the past, though it
 would have been with the AF360.

 What am I doing wrong?

 Thanks,
 -c

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-17 Thread Christine Nielsen
Hi Dario,

Thanks for your many replies!  :)

I think you were on track in your first reply -- it was still very
bright out, and the camera, set to AV, wanted a fast shutter speed
(1/500 +), even at ISO 200.  After my first shot, I smacked my
forehead and realized high speed synch would be the way to go...but
then I still had problems... I suppose I could have stopped down some
more, but I was afraid of loosing a nicely-blurred background...

Looks like I'm going back to school on pttl flash this summer.  I
really appreciate yours  everyone else's thoughts on the subject!

:)
-c



On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 12:50 PM, Dario Bonazza
dario.bona...@virgilio.it wrote:
 Christine,
 In case of low-light shooting, I find the best way for using flash is to
 set the camera in M mode for exposing the environment and then add some
 flash for the main subject in the foreground. Also try spot metering,
 especially in case of a small subject against a wide underexposed
 background.
 Cheers,
 Dario

 I mean in this case the flash operation can be set to P-TTL.
 Dario

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-17 Thread Mark Cassino
Hi Christine -
 
Just a comment - at the maximum X-Synch speed and slower, changing the shutter 
speed only affects the ambient lighting. It has no affect on the flash - only 
aperture affects flash. I think there is some affect with high speed synch. 
 
MCC


- Original Message -
From: Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: Can we talk about fill flash  pttl?

Hi Dario,

Thanks for your many replies!  :)

I think you were on track in your first reply -- it was still very
bright out, and the camera, set to AV, wanted a fast shutter speed
(1/500 +), even at ISO 200.  After my first shot, I smacked my
forehead and realized high speed synch would be the way to go...but
then I still had problems... I suppose I could have stopped down some
more, but I was afraid of loosing a nicely-blurred background...

Looks like I'm going back to school on pttl flash this summer.  I
really appreciate yours  everyone else's thoughts on the subject!

:)
-c



On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 12:50 PM, Dario Bonazza
dario.bona...@virgilio.it wrote:
 Christine,
 In case of low-light shooting, I find the best way for using flash is to
 set the camera in M mode for exposing the environment and then add some
 flash for the main subject in the foreground. Also try spot metering,
 especially in case of a small subject against a wide underexposed
 background.
 Cheers,
 Dario

 I mean in this case the flash operation can be set to P-TTL.
 Dario

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-17 Thread Mark Cassino
Just my own testing - but the two controls seem to be cumulative. At -2 on the 
body and -3 on the unit, flash is less powerful than -3 on the unit alone. I 
usually set the unit to -2 or -3 and fine tune with body compensation - which 
can also mean dialing in +1 on the body.

Here are two macro shots that show the impact of the fill flash -

http://www.markcassino.com/temp/pdml/IMGP4143.jpg

http://www.markcassino.com/temp/pdml/IMGP4145.jpg

The first one had flash with -3 on the unit and (I think) -1 on the body. I had 
a diffuser on the flash but was using a bracket that put the flash unit pretty 
close to the subject. The second one had no flash - the batteries were cycling. 
I processed the raw files identically except that for the second shot I pushed 
the 'fill light' setting in Adobe Camera Raw as far as I could before the 
shadows got noisy. 
 
But, as you can see, the flash makes a big difference - I think the first shot 
is actually a little over flashed and I should have pushed in a little more 
negative compensation or set the flash zoom level to wide angle... 
 
- MCC

- Original Message -
From: Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: Can we talk about fill flash  pttl?

Mark, thank you very much for your thoughts.  It's encouraging to know
that you are able to make pttl work for you, even at close range...
Your comment:

On overcast cloudy days I may set the flash compensation to -3
 and the compensation on the camera body to -2.

Raises another question for me, though... How do the flash
compensation controls on the the flash and camera work together?  Or
separately, for that matter?  When applying compensation in both
places, it sounds from your description that they have a cumulative
effect (-5 EV?)...  As opposed to one set of controls taking
precedence over the other... Is this correct?  If using just the
compensation controls in one place or the other, is either more
effective?

Thanks again,
-c

On Sat, Jul 16, 2011 at 11:03 AM, Mark Cassino markcass...@ymail.com wrote:
 Hi Christine
 -
  I use
 fill PTTL fill flash in my macro shots all the time - virtually every shot 
 that
 I work with is shot with flash. No problems once you know how to adjust the
 flash etc. I shoot manually with the exposure usually set to the ambient meter
 reading or to -1/2 stop. The amount of fill needed is relative to the 
 primarily
 light source. In direct full brutal sun I shoot with no exposure compensation
 on the flash. On overcast cloudy days I may set the flash compensation to -3
 and the compensation on the camera body to -2. In some situations I have to
 resort to lowering the power on the flash by dropping the wide angle diffuser
 or putting a diffuser on it. But those cases are very low light situations
 where the subject is very close.
 After
 doing this for a while I now just know where to set things - just experiment a
 bit. Digital makes the technical end of photography so easy I use the same
 basic technique for macros, birds, and even outdoor portraits. For wildlife it
 is split second decision making and having the flash compensation in the body
 is a great asset. If you put the flash on a bracket or use a diffuser etc it
 just equates to a certain number of stops of compensation, so you just 
 consider
 that in your mental calculations... Like In this soft light I'd like to
 have -4 stops of compensation but that diffuser is equivalent to -2 so I'll
 just dial in -2.
 I'm working
 with the flash generally much closer than the minimum working distance - like
 the subject is 12 to 24 inches away - so overexposure is always a problem. 
 I've
 used the same basic setup with the Pz-1p (usually with slide film), *ist-D,
 K-10D, and now K7. Each camera had it's own quirks and I had to adjust the 
 exposure
 compensation for each. I find that I dial in much more negative compensation 
 with
 the K7 than I did with any of the other cameras.
 Good
 luck!
  MCC


 - Original Message -
 From: Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net
 To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
 Cc:
 Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2011 11:11 AM
 Subject: Can we talk about fill flash  pttl?

 Last night, I attended a portrait workshop.  We were shooting at the
 beach, at the end of the day.  It was still very bright, and in the
 shade of a lighthouse, some fill was required on our models' faces.
 No problem.  I had the AF540 on my k-7...using aperture priority mode,
 and -1.5 Flash EV, I took some shots.  Gah.  Way overexposed.  I
 fiddled, set the flash to high-speed sync, and tried again.  Still
 hot.  I proceeded to try several other manipulations... none really
 working, until I settled on a fully manual operation for exposure, and
 flash (1/16).

 It shouldn't have to be this way, though, right?  I should be able to
 use pttl to provide (more or less) the right amount of fill, yes? I'm
 even pretty sure I've

Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-17 Thread Bruce Walker

On 11-07-17 11:52 AM, Christine Nielsen wrote:

Hi Dario,

Thanks for your many replies!  :)

I think you were on track in your first reply -- it was still very
bright out, and the camera, set to AV, wanted a fast shutter speed
(1/500 +), even at ISO 200.  After my first shot, I smacked my
forehead and realized high speed synch would be the way to go...but
then I still had problems... I suppose I could have stopped down some
more, but I was afraid of loosing a nicely-blurred background...


Sometimes you need to slap on an ND filter to reduce the ambient by a 
few stops so you can keep your wide open aperture.


-bmw

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-16 Thread Mark Cassino
Hi Christine
-
 I use
fill PTTL fill flash in my macro shots all the time - virtually every shot that
I work with is shot with flash. No problems once you know how to adjust the
flash etc. I shoot manually with the exposure usually set to the ambient meter
reading or to -1/2 stop. The amount of fill needed is relative to the primarily
light source. In direct full brutal sun I shoot with no exposure compensation
on the flash. On overcast cloudy days I may set the flash compensation to -3
and the compensation on the camera body to -2. In some situations I have to
resort to lowering the power on the flash by dropping the wide angle diffuser
or putting a diffuser on it. But those cases are very low light situations
where the subject is very close.
After
doing this for a while I now just know where to set things - just experiment a
bit. Digital makes the technical end of photography so easy I use the same
basic technique for macros, birds, and even outdoor portraits. For wildlife it
is split second decision making and having the flash compensation in the body
is a great asset. If you put the flash on a bracket or use a diffuser etc it
just equates to a certain number of stops of compensation, so you just consider
that in your mental calculations... Like In this soft light I'd like to
have -4 stops of compensation but that diffuser is equivalent to -2 so I'll
just dial in -2.
I'm working
with the flash generally much closer than the minimum working distance - like
the subject is 12 to 24 inches away - so overexposure is always a problem. I've
used the same basic setup with the Pz-1p (usually with slide film), *ist-D,
K-10D, and now K7. Each camera had it's own quirks and I had to adjust the 
exposure
compensation for each. I find that I dial in much more negative compensation 
with
the K7 than I did with any of the other cameras.
Good
luck!
 MCC


- Original Message -
From: Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net
To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2011 11:11 AM
Subject: Can we talk about fill flash  pttl?

Last night, I attended a portrait workshop.  We were shooting at the
beach, at the end of the day.  It was still very bright, and in the
shade of a lighthouse, some fill was required on our models' faces.
No problem.  I had the AF540 on my k-7...using aperture priority mode,
and -1.5 Flash EV, I took some shots.  Gah.  Way overexposed.  I
fiddled, set the flash to high-speed sync, and tried again.  Still
hot.  I proceeded to try several other manipulations... none really
working, until I settled on a fully manual operation for exposure, and
flash (1/16).

It shouldn't have to be this way, though, right?  I should be able to
use pttl to provide (more or less) the right amount of fill, yes? I'm
even pretty sure I've done it successfully in the past, though it
would have been with the AF360.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks,
-c

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-16 Thread Dario Bonazza

Christine Nielsen wrote:


Last night, I attended a portrait workshop.  We were shooting at the
beach, at the end of the day.  It was still very bright, and in the
shade of a lighthouse, some fill was required on our models' faces.
No problem.  I had the AF540 on my k-7...using aperture priority mode,
and -1.5 Flash EV, I took some shots.  Gah.  Way overexposed.  I
fiddled, set the flash to high-speed sync, and tried again.  Still
hot.  I proceeded to try several other manipulations... none really
working, until I settled on a fully manual operation for exposure, and
flash (1/16).

It shouldn't have to be this way, though, right?  I should be able to
use pttl to provide (more or less) the right amount of fill, yes? I'm
even pretty sure I've done it successfully in the past, though it
would have been with the AF360.

What am I doing wrong?


Christine, I don't think the P-TTL works perfectly (far from that!), but the 
bad problem you are reporting usually happens when you use aperture priority 
and have aperture  ISO settings so that he camera would use fast shutter 
speeds (e.g. 1/500 sec) in bright sunlight. At that point, by activating the 
flash, you force the shutter speed to say /1/160 sec (or slower, in case of 
camera/flash set to slow-speed synch) and that's enough for getting bad 
overexposure, with the added flash light on top of it. It happened to me and 
that's the reason for the mess.
When using the flash for compensating backlight, check that the shutter 
speed set by the flash activation won't overexpose available light! In case, 
either change aperture/ISO or set high-speed synch.


Cheers,

Dario 



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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-16 Thread Dario Bonazza

I wrote:

Christine, I don't think the P-TTL works perfectly (far from that!), but 
the bad problem you are reporting usually happens when you use aperture 
priority and have aperture  ISO settings so that he camera would use fast 
shutter speeds (e.g. 1/500 sec) in bright sunlight. At that point, by 
activating the flash, you force the shutter speed to say /1/160 sec (or 
slower, in case of camera/flash set to slow-speed synch) and that's enough 
for getting bad overexposure, with the added flash light on top of it. It 
happened to me and that's the reason for the mess.
When using the flash for compensating backlight, check that the shutter 
speed set by the flash activation won't overexpose available light! In 
case, either change aperture/ISO or set high-speed synch.


Hmmm... perhaps that's not the problem, since you wrote it happened at the 
end of the day. Hower, check the aperture/ISO settings in use, just in 
case...


Dario 



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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-16 Thread Dario Bonazza

Christine,
In case of low-light shooting, I find the best way for using flash is to set 
the camera in M mode for exposing the environment and then add some flash 
for the main subject in the foreground. Also try spot metering, especially 
in case of a small subject against a wide underexposed background.

Cheers,
Dario 



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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-16 Thread Dario Bonazza

Christine,
In case of low-light shooting, I find the best way for using flash is to 
set the camera in M mode for exposing the environment and then add some 
flash for the main subject in the foreground. Also try spot metering, 
especially in case of a small subject against a wide underexposed 
background.

Cheers,
Dario


I mean in this case the flash operation can be set to P-TTL.
Dario 



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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-14 Thread Leon Altoff
Hi Christine,

Can I ask what lens you were using?  I had this sort of problem using
an A lens.  It improved when I set the focal length for the shake
reduction (don't ask me why), though it was still not correct it was
then controlable.

Leon

On 14 July 2011 01:11, Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net wrote:
 Last night, I attended a portrait workshop.  We were shooting at the
 beach, at the end of the day.  It was still very bright, and in the
 shade of a lighthouse, some fill was required on our models' faces.
 No problem.  I had the AF540 on my k-7...using aperture priority mode,
 and -1.5 Flash EV, I took some shots.  Gah.  Way overexposed.  I
 fiddled, set the flash to high-speed sync, and tried again.  Still
 hot.  I proceeded to try several other manipulations... none really
 working, until I settled on a fully manual operation for exposure, and
 flash (1/16).

 It shouldn't have to be this way, though, right?  I should be able to
 use pttl to provide (more or less) the right amount of fill, yes? I'm
 even pretty sure I've done it successfully in the past, though it
 would have been with the AF360.

 What am I doing wrong?

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-14 Thread Christine Nielsen
I was using the DA* 50-135...

-c

On Jul 14, 2011, at 4:55 AM, Leon Altoff leon.alt...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi Christine,

 Can I ask what lens you were using?  I had this sort of problem using
 an A lens.  It improved when I set the focal length for the shake
 reduction (don't ask me why), though it was still not correct it was
 then controlable.

 Leon

 On 14 July 2011 01:11, Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net wrote:
 Last night, I attended a portrait workshop.  We were shooting at the
 beach, at the end of the day.  It was still very bright, and in the
 shade of a lighthouse, some fill was required on our models' faces.
 No problem.  I had the AF540 on my k-7...using aperture priority mode,
 and -1.5 Flash EV, I took some shots.  Gah.  Way overexposed.  I
 fiddled, set the flash to high-speed sync, and tried again.  Still
 hot.  I proceeded to try several other manipulations... none really
 working, until I settled on a fully manual operation for exposure, and
 flash (1/16).

 It shouldn't have to be this way, though, right?  I should be able to
 use pttl to provide (more or less) the right amount of fill, yes? I'm
 even pretty sure I've done it successfully in the past, though it
 would have been with the AF360.

 What am I doing wrong?

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Charles Robinson
On Jul 13, 2011, at 10:11, Christine Nielsen wrote:

 Last night, I attended a portrait workshop.  We were shooting at the
 beach, at the end of the day.  It was still very bright, and in the
 shade of a lighthouse, some fill was required on our models' faces.
 No problem.  I had the AF540 on my k-7...using aperture priority mode,
 and -1.5 Flash EV, I took some shots.  Gah.  Way overexposed.  I
 fiddled, set the flash to high-speed sync, and tried again.  Still
 hot.  I proceeded to try several other manipulations... none really
 working, until I settled on a fully manual operation for exposure, and
 flash (1/16).
 
 It shouldn't have to be this way, though, right?  I should be able to
 use pttl to provide (more or less) the right amount of fill, yes? I'm
 even pretty sure I've done it successfully in the past, though it
 would have been with the AF360.
 
 What am I doing wrong?
 

Much my experience as well, sadly.  I think the problem is that we're using 
Pentax gear.  :-(

k7 is much BETTER than the K10D for this kind of thing, but it is still far 
from perfect.  I have the same combo with the same problems.

 -Charles

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Minneapolis, MN
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http://www.facebook.com/charles.robinson


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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Bruce Walker

On 11-07-13 11:11 AM, Christine Nielsen wrote:

Last night, I attended a portrait workshop.  We were shooting at the
beach, at the end of the day.  It was still very bright, and in the
shade of a lighthouse, some fill was required on our models' faces.
No problem.  I had the AF540 on my k-7...using aperture priority mode,
and -1.5 Flash EV, I took some shots.  Gah.  Way overexposed.  I
fiddled, set the flash to high-speed sync, and tried again.  Still
hot.  I proceeded to try several other manipulations... none really
working, until I settled on a fully manual operation for exposure, and
flash (1/16).

It shouldn't have to be this way, though, right?  I should be able to
use pttl to provide (more or less) the right amount of fill, yes? I'm
even pretty sure I've done it successfully in the past, though it
would have been with the AF360.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks,
-c


Unhappily, yeah, P-TTL is easily freaked-out by the light conditions. 
I've had it work, so it *can*, but under extremes, and I think back 
light is a Pentax extreme, it won't.


But where were you applying the -1.5 comp: on the K-7 itself (ie in the 
flash menu), or on the back of the flash?  This makes a big difference.  
I find that applying exp comp on the flash generally works better then 
on the camera.


-bmw

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Christine Nielsen
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 11:22 AM, Bruce Walker bruce.wal...@gmail.com wrote:


 But where were you applying the -1.5 comp: on the K-7 itself (ie in the
 flash menu), or on the back of the flash?  This makes a big difference.  I
 find that applying exp comp on the flash generally works better then on the
 camera.

I know for sure I did it on the camera, and I'm pretty sure I tried it
on the flash as one of the many variants I applied... but I'll keep
that in mind... thx.




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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Christine Nielsen
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 11:16 AM, Charles Robinson charl...@visi.com wrote:


 Much my experience as well, sadly.  I think the problem is that we're using 
 Pentax gear.  :-(

 k7 is much BETTER than the K10D for this kind of thing, but it is still far 
 from perfect.  I have the same combo with the same problems.


Groan.  I was hoping for a user error diagnosis...

;)
-c

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RE: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread John Sessoms

From: Christine Nielsen

Last night, I attended a portrait workshop.  We were shooting at the
beach, at the end of the day.  It was still very bright, and in the
shade of a lighthouse, some fill was required on our models' faces.
No problem.  I had the AF540 on my k-7...using aperture priority mode,
and -1.5 Flash EV, I took some shots.  Gah.  Way overexposed.  I
fiddled, set the flash to high-speed sync, and tried again.  Still
hot.  I proceeded to try several other manipulations... none really
working, until I settled on a fully manual operation for exposure, and
flash (1/16).

It shouldn't have to be this way, though, right?  I should be able to
use pttl to provide (more or less) the right amount of fill, yes? I'm
even pretty sure I've done it successfully in the past, though it
would have been with the AF360.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks,


I don't think you're doing anything wrong. I've had the same problems 
using pttl and the AF540 for fill.


The other problem I've had with the AF540 is you can't set it the way 
you want it and have it stay there. If it powers down, it reverts to 
full power when you wake it back up.



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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread David J Brooks
I have/had the same problems with my K10D. Each shot was different and
i spent more time fiddling that shooting.
The CLS system Nikon has works a lot better for me with way less
fiddle time. Usually set and shoot.

Therefore when flash is needed for any of my photos the D200 and SB800
come along. Even the D200 pop up is more accurate than the Pentax
system IMO.

Dave

On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 11:11 AM, Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net wrote:
 Last night, I attended a portrait workshop.  We were shooting at the
 beach, at the end of the day.  It was still very bright, and in the
 shade of a lighthouse, some fill was required on our models' faces.
 No problem.  I had the AF540 on my k-7...using aperture priority mode,
 and -1.5 Flash EV, I took some shots.  Gah.  Way overexposed.  I
 fiddled, set the flash to high-speed sync, and tried again.  Still
 hot.  I proceeded to try several other manipulations... none really
 working, until I settled on a fully manual operation for exposure, and
 flash (1/16).

 It shouldn't have to be this way, though, right?  I should be able to
 use pttl to provide (more or less) the right amount of fill, yes? I'm
 even pretty sure I've done it successfully in the past, though it
 would have been with the AF360.

 What am I doing wrong?

 Thanks,
 -c

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Toine
What shutter speed did the camera select. My habit is setting the sync
to slow speed sync or the camera in M mode. If the meter wants 1/60
and the sync speed is normal the camera selects 1/125 or 1/180 and the
flash suddenly is the primary light source.
Toine

On Wednesday, 13 July 2011, Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net wrote:
 Last night, I attended a portrait workshop.  We were shooting at the
 beach, at the end of the day.  It was still very bright, and in the
 shade of a lighthouse, some fill was required on our models' faces.
 No problem.  I had the AF540 on my k-7...using aperture priority mode,
 and -1.5 Flash EV, I took some shots.  Gah.  Way overexposed.  I
 fiddled, set the flash to high-speed sync, and tried again.  Still
 hot.  I proceeded to try several other manipulations... none really
 working, until I settled on a fully manual operation for exposure, and
 flash (1/16).

 It shouldn't have to be this way, though, right?  I should be able to
 use pttl to provide (more or less) the right amount of fill, yes? I'm
 even pretty sure I've done it successfully in the past, though it
 would have been with the AF360.

 What am I doing wrong?

 Thanks,
 -c

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
I see questions like this quite often when I'm teaching workshops,
from people with all different kinds of camera-flash systems.

If you want to understand using a dedicated, auto-metering flash
system like this, see Joe McNally's books, workshops and videos.
They're based on Nikon equipment and their iTTL system, likely the
best in the business, but the principles apply to any dedicated flash
automation setup. Rick Sammon recently  did a similar book based
around the Canon E-TTL flash system, it's probably in the same
ballpark.

Those who prefer simpler, more basic flash use should look into the
Strobist world for tutorials and ideas. http://strobist.blogspot.com/

I've been using flash illumination, for fill, main light, multi-light
setups etc, since the 1970s. To me, all these dedicated autoflash
systems are on the one hand a great convenience for some things and a
huge handicap for other things. To me, understanding how they work and
how to control lighting with them is often more work than
understanding how to use a simple, basic, manual flash system. Even
when I was shooting film, I preferred manual flash systems. With
digital, it's such a piece of cake I don't understand the need for all
the complexity of a dedicated autoflash system.

Proper exposure is a combination of knowing what your intent is, a few
simple things about the light sources you're using, and understanding
how to manipulate the camera settings and the flash unit to produce
the results desired.

If the main light is the flash:
- Aperture controls the focus zone.
- ISO and exposure time @ an aperture setting control how much ambient
light fill you get.
- Distance and flash output control the intensity of the main light.

If the main light is ambient and the flash is used for fill:
- The rules above apply but you consider the ambient light as the main
source and reduce flash illumination relative to it.

When I do use TTL flash automation systems for fill flash, I find the
only way to get consistent results with almost any camera and flash
system is to:
- Set camera to Manual exposure
- Pick an ISO, aperture and exposure time to give appropriately
correct main light exposure for the subject
- Set the Flash EV-compensation control to work in the correct range,
typically -2 to -1.3 EV is about right.

This puts the burden of the flash exposure on the camera and flash
unit, balancing against the ambient light setting which is fixed and
manual. Using high speed sync options of the flash system is often
called for if you're working in bright sunlight because you have a lot
more flexibility on exposure time that way (not lmited to X-sync
shutter time setting). You need to be sensitive to the limits of the
flash automation system ... how much power does the flash unit have at
most in the mode you're using, how *little* power can it be throttled
back to on automatic, etc ... and adjust ISO settings, aperture
setting, and distance to the flash to suit those limitations. (The
only real difference when using auto-TTL metering when doing this and
working the flash exposure by manual power settings is that the flash
unit will automatically accommodate minor changes in subject
reflectivity and distance, rather than you having to adjust the power
output and position of the flash constantly.)

It's not hard to do, and with a digital camera and immediate
capability to evaluate what an exposure has done by going to review
and looking at the histogram for the captures it makes the setup
operation consistent and foolproof for any lighting situation.
-- 
Godfrey
  godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Charles Robinson
On Jul 13, 2011, at 10:57, David J Brooks wrote:
 Therefore when flash is needed for any of my photos the D200 and SB800
 come along. Even the D200 pop up is more accurate than the Pentax
 system IMO.
 

Frankly, even the K-7 popup is more accurate in fill-flash conditions than the 
AF540 (on the K-7) is.  Sadness.

 -Charles

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread William Robb

On 13/07/2011 9:11 AM, Christine Nielsen wrote:






What am I doing wrong?


Pentax TTL flash control has always been pretty awful. To this day, I 
still set everything manually and use a big dumb auto flash that uses a 
PC cord to attach to the camera.
It's sad when a 25 year old flash using 60 year old technology to tell 
it when to fire is more reliable than what was made last week, but there 
you have it.


--

William Robb

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Christine Nielsen
Thanks for your reply, Godfrey.  Everything you said syncs with
everything I've been taught about using flash... And your
recommendation:

 When I do use TTL flash automation systems for fill flash, I find the
 only way to get consistent results with almost any camera and flash
 system is to:
 - Set camera to Manual exposure
 - Pick an ISO, aperture and exposure time to give appropriately
 correct main light exposure for the subject
 - Set the Flash EV-compensation control to work in the correct range,
 typically -2 to -1.3 EV is about right.

Is 'zactly what I did. (manual exposure/ pttl flash/ -1.5 to -2EV/ hss
was one of my iterations)  Still, I got uneven results.  Now, maybe I
still goofed in setting the flash EV in camera rather than on the
unit... or in any number of other ways...

I hold onto hope for user error, but the (anecdotal) evidence on the
other side is mounting.  And when looking for guidance from the
(Canikon-wielding) workshop leader?  Oh, don't ask me about flash!!
I just set it on AUTO  go!  Heehee!!!  Maddening.

Oh well.   I'm happy that I'm at least comfortable enough navigating
with a manual flash until I get this sorted out.

Thanks again,
-c



On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 12:15 PM, Godfrey DiGiorgi gdigio...@gmail.com wrote:
 I see questions like this quite often when I'm teaching workshops,
 from people with all different kinds of camera-flash systems.

 If you want to understand using a dedicated, auto-metering flash
 system like this, see Joe McNally's books, workshops and videos.
 They're based on Nikon equipment and their iTTL system, likely the
 best in the business, but the principles apply to any dedicated flash
 automation setup. Rick Sammon recently  did a similar book based
 around the Canon E-TTL flash system, it's probably in the same
 ballpark.

 Those who prefer simpler, more basic flash use should look into the
 Strobist world for tutorials and ideas. http://strobist.blogspot.com/

 I've been using flash illumination, for fill, main light, multi-light
 setups etc, since the 1970s. To me, all these dedicated autoflash
 systems are on the one hand a great convenience for some things and a
 huge handicap for other things. To me, understanding how they work and
 how to control lighting with them is often more work than
 understanding how to use a simple, basic, manual flash system. Even
 when I was shooting film, I preferred manual flash systems. With
 digital, it's such a piece of cake I don't understand the need for all
 the complexity of a dedicated autoflash system.

 Proper exposure is a combination of knowing what your intent is, a few
 simple things about the light sources you're using, and understanding
 how to manipulate the camera settings and the flash unit to produce
 the results desired.

 If the main light is the flash:
 - Aperture controls the focus zone.
 - ISO and exposure time @ an aperture setting control how much ambient
 light fill you get.
 - Distance and flash output control the intensity of the main light.

 If the main light is ambient and the flash is used for fill:
 - The rules above apply but you consider the ambient light as the main
 source and reduce flash illumination relative to it.

 When I do use TTL flash automation systems for fill flash, I find the
 only way to get consistent results with almost any camera and flash
 system is to:
 - Set camera to Manual exposure
 - Pick an ISO, aperture and exposure time to give appropriately
 correct main light exposure for the subject
 - Set the Flash EV-compensation control to work in the correct range,
 typically -2 to -1.3 EV is about right.

 This puts the burden of the flash exposure on the camera and flash
 unit, balancing against the ambient light setting which is fixed and
 manual. Using high speed sync options of the flash system is often
 called for if you're working in bright sunlight because you have a lot
 more flexibility on exposure time that way (not lmited to X-sync
 shutter time setting). You need to be sensitive to the limits of the
 flash automation system ... how much power does the flash unit have at
 most in the mode you're using, how *little* power can it be throttled
 back to on automatic, etc ... and adjust ISO settings, aperture
 setting, and distance to the flash to suit those limitations. (The
 only real difference when using auto-TTL metering when doing this and
 working the flash exposure by manual power settings is that the flash
 unit will automatically accommodate minor changes in subject
 reflectivity and distance, rather than you having to adjust the power
 output and position of the flash constantly.)

 It's not hard to do, and with a digital camera and immediate
 capability to evaluate what an exposure has done by going to review
 and looking at the histogram for the captures it makes the setup
 operation consistent and foolproof for any lighting situation.
 --
 Godfrey
   godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Paul Stenquist
I'm not sure what you're doing wrong, but I usually have no problem getting the 
AF540 to work as fill. In daylight, you do have to use high speed synch mode of 
course, and the flash will revert to a 1/180th shutter speed if you don't 
override it. I generally use program P mode on the K-5 and set the shutter 
speed up to a value that works with the stop and ISO I want -- quite often 
1/500th, f5.6 and ISO 200 in backlit or crosslit conditions in daylight. I 
usually set the exposure comp on the flash to -.5 or -1, depending on the 
amount of fill I want. I have occasionally experienced strange exposure 
problems, but generally this technique works for me. 
Paul


On Jul 13, 2011, at 11:57 AM, Toine wrote:

 What shutter speed did the camera select. My habit is setting the sync
 to slow speed sync or the camera in M mode. If the meter wants 1/60
 and the sync speed is normal the camera selects 1/125 or 1/180 and the
 flash suddenly is the primary light source.
 Toine
 
 On Wednesday, 13 July 2011, Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net wrote:
 Last night, I attended a portrait workshop.  We were shooting at the
 beach, at the end of the day.  It was still very bright, and in the
 shade of a lighthouse, some fill was required on our models' faces.
 No problem.  I had the AF540 on my k-7...using aperture priority mode,
 and -1.5 Flash EV, I took some shots.  Gah.  Way overexposed.  I
 fiddled, set the flash to high-speed sync, and tried again.  Still
 hot.  I proceeded to try several other manipulations... none really
 working, until I settled on a fully manual operation for exposure, and
 flash (1/16).
 
 It shouldn't have to be this way, though, right?  I should be able to
 use pttl to provide (more or less) the right amount of fill, yes? I'm
 even pretty sure I've done it successfully in the past, though it
 would have been with the AF360.
 
 What am I doing wrong?
 
 Thanks,
 -c
 
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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Christine Nielsen
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 11:54 AM, John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com wrote:


 The other problem I've had with the AF540 is you can't set it the way you
 want it and have it stay there. If it powers down, it reverts to full power
 when you wake it back up.


Funny, there's a problem I haven't had.  I often use my 540  360,
together, on manual settings, as studio strobes for product
photography.  I can set them up, work for a while, leave them to power
off on their own, and then return the next day  they're on the same
settings as before when they power up.
Go figure!

:)
-c

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
On Wednesday, July 13, 2011, Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net wrote:
 ... Is 'zactly what I did. (manual exposure/ pttl flash/ -1.5 to -2EV/ hss
 was one of my iterations)  Still, I got uneven results.  Now, maybe I
 still goofed in setting the flash EV in camera rather than on the
 unit... or in any number of other ways...

Usually when that happens in TTL-auto, the reason is that you are too
close and/or at too high an ISO setting for the flash to be able to
accommodate the desired exposure by throttling down the power. flash
units typically have a pretty limited range of auto adjustment to work
with at closer distances, which is where a lot of diffuser material
can help quite a bit, by cutting the total light output hitting the
subject substantially.

Even manual control has limits in this regard ... I never go anywhere
with my flash kit without some kind of diffuser materials to spread
and cut the light output.


-- 
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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Charles Robinson
On Jul 13, 2011, at 12:05, Christine Nielsen wrote:

 On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 11:54 AM, John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 
 
 The other problem I've had with the AF540 is you can't set it the way you
 want it and have it stay there. If it powers down, it reverts to full power
 when you wake it back up.
 
 
 Funny, there's a problem I haven't had.  I often use my 540  360,
 together, on manual settings, as studio strobes for product
 photography.  I can set them up, work for a while, leave them to power
 off on their own, and then return the next day  they're on the same
 settings as before when they power up.
 Go figure!
 

So they're off-camera?  I think therein lies the diff.  

If if goes to sleep while plugged into the PTTL connection (ie, hotshoe) on 
the camera, waking it up will set it to PTTL mode.

 -Charles

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Minneapolis, MN
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http://www.facebook.com/charles.robinson


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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Bruce Walker

On 11-07-13 1:15 PM, Charles Robinson wrote:

On Jul 13, 2011, at 12:05, Christine Nielsen wrote:


On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 11:54 AM, John Sessomsjsessoms...@nc.rr.com  wrote:


The other problem I've had with the AF540 is you can't set it the way you
want it and have it stay there. If it powers down, it reverts to full power
when you wake it back up.


Funny, there's a problem I haven't had.  I often use my 540  360,
together, on manual settings, as studio strobes for product
photography.  I can set them up, work for a while, leave them to power
off on their own, and then return the next day  they're on the same
settings as before when they power up.
Go figure!


So they're off-camera?  I think therein lies the diff.

If if goes to sleep while plugged into the PTTL connection (ie, hotshoe) on the camera, 
waking it up will set it to PTTL mode.

  -Charles

--
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Minneapolis, MN
http://charles.robinsontwins.org
http://www.facebook.com/charles.robinson


And it's worth noting that these flashes, when set to wireless slaves, 
will not power off until after an hour of non-use.  So you don't tend to 
ever see the revert to default P-TTL behaviour when working with remotes.


Think of it as Pentax reminding you the off-camera flash is to be 
preferred. :-)


-bmw

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Christine Nielsen
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 1:11 PM, Godfrey DiGiorgi gdigio...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Wednesday, July 13, 2011, Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net wrote:
 ... Is 'zactly what I did. (manual exposure/ pttl flash/ -1.5 to -2EV/ hss
 was one of my iterations)  Still, I got uneven results.  Now, maybe I
 still goofed in setting the flash EV in camera rather than on the
 unit... or in any number of other ways...

 Usually when that happens in TTL-auto, the reason is that you are too
 close and/or at too high an ISO setting for the flash to be able to
 accommodate the desired exposure by throttling down the power. flash
 units typically have a pretty limited range of auto adjustment to work
 with at closer distances, which is where a lot of diffuser material
 can help quite a bit, by cutting the total light output hitting the
 subject substantially.

 Even manual control has limits in this regard ... I never go anywhere
 with my flash kit without some kind of diffuser materials to spread
 and cut the light output.

Distance may have been a factor.  We were in fairly tight quarters,
huddled in the shade of the lighthouse...

Bear with me for one more question?  When you say diffuser, what do
you mean in this situation?  I use diffusers all the time with
off-camera flash, but on-camera, what do you prefer?  I have resisted
purchasing the sto-fen/tupperware-type accessories,  but maybe they
are worth a look...? (ok, so that was 3 questions...)

:)
-c

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Christine Nielsen
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 1:23 PM, Bruce Walker bruce.wal...@gmail.com wrote:


 And it's worth noting that these flashes, when set to wireless slaves, will
 not power off until after an hour of non-use.  So you don't tend to ever see
 the revert to default P-TTL behaviour when working with remotes.

 Think of it as Pentax reminding you the off-camera flash is to be preferred.
 :-)



Ah.  Well, there you go.

;)
-c

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Christine Nielsen
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 1:04 PM, Paul Stenquist pnstenqu...@comcast.net wrote:
 I'm not sure what you're doing wrong, but I usually have no problem getting 
 the AF540 to work as fill. In daylight, you do have to use high speed synch 
 mode of course, and the flash will revert to a 1/180th shutter speed if you 
 don't override it. I generally use program P mode on the K-5 and set the 
 shutter speed up to a value that works with the stop and ISO I want -- quite 
 often 1/500th, f5.6 and ISO 200 in backlit or crosslit conditions in 
 daylight. I usually set the exposure comp on the flash to -.5 or -1, 
 depending on the amount of fill I want. I have occasionally experienced 
 strange exposure problems, but generally this technique works for me.
 Paul


Hmm.  Thanks for your thoughts, Paul.  I hardly ever use program
mode... no reason really, just don't... but I'll give your method a
try.

A dumb question, maybe, but when you set high-speed sync, do you set
it on the flash itself and/or in the menu of the camera?  I was having
difficulty over-riding the shutter speed before I went to M...

Thanks,
-c

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Paul Stenquist
The ceiling can be used as a diffuser, and there are diffusers that clip onto 
the flash or fit over the head. The 540 also has a mini bounce card and 
diffuser built in. But I use a Sto-Fen Omni-Bounce most of the time for any 
work where I'm closer than 15 feet or so.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/160596-REG/Sto_Fen_OM_MZ40_OM_MZ40_Omni_Bounce.html

I also use a fong lumisphere on occasion. It provides more diffusion than the 
omni-bounce but also kills more light.

As I mentioned in a previous post, when in daylight, you'll almost always have 
to use high-speed synch to get a good exposure, and you have to take care that 
the camera doesn't revert to 1/180th shutter speed when you turn the flash on.

Paul


On Jul 13, 2011, at 2:50 PM, Christine Nielsen wrote:

 On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 1:11 PM, Godfrey DiGiorgi gdigio...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Wednesday, July 13, 2011, Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net wrote:
 ... Is 'zactly what I did. (manual exposure/ pttl flash/ -1.5 to -2EV/ hss
 was one of my iterations)  Still, I got uneven results.  Now, maybe I
 still goofed in setting the flash EV in camera rather than on the
 unit... or in any number of other ways...
 
 Usually when that happens in TTL-auto, the reason is that you are too
 close and/or at too high an ISO setting for the flash to be able to
 accommodate the desired exposure by throttling down the power. flash
 units typically have a pretty limited range of auto adjustment to work
 with at closer distances, which is where a lot of diffuser material
 can help quite a bit, by cutting the total light output hitting the
 subject substantially.
 
 Even manual control has limits in this regard ... I never go anywhere
 with my flash kit without some kind of diffuser materials to spread
 and cut the light output.
 
 Distance may have been a factor.  We were in fairly tight quarters,
 huddled in the shade of the lighthouse...
 
 Bear with me for one more question?  When you say diffuser, what do
 you mean in this situation?  I use diffusers all the time with
 off-camera flash, but on-camera, what do you prefer?  I have resisted
 purchasing the sto-fen/tupperware-type accessories,  but maybe they
 are worth a look...? (ok, so that was 3 questions...)
 
 :)
 -c
 
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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Bruce Walker

On 11-07-13 2:50 PM, Christine Nielsen wrote:
Bear with me for one more question? When you say diffuser, what do 
you mean in this situation? I use diffusers all the time with 
off-camera flash, but on-camera, what do you prefer? I have resisted 
purchasing the sto-fen/tupperware-type accessories, but maybe they are 
worth a look...? (ok, so that was 3 questions...) :) -c 


I use the Westcott Micro Apollo (5x8) for close portrait on-camera 
fill ...


http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/62832-REG/Westcott_2200_Micro_Apollo_Softbox.html

This shot was done with one, a K20D and DA* 55 ...

http://goo.gl/adeU4

Just a tiny flicker of fill to get very flat light for a headshot.

BTW: Westcott provides the wrong sex of Velcro on the flash attachment 
for this and it won't work with regular Velcro straps (Lumiquest, Honl) 
as-is. I unglued them and replaced them with double-sided sticky Velcro 
from the dollar store.


-bmw

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 11:50 AM, Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net wrote:
 Distance may have been a factor.  We were in fairly tight quarters,
 huddled in the shade of the lighthouse...

 Bear with me for one more question?  When you say diffuser, what do
 you mean in this situation?  I use diffusers all the time with
 off-camera flash, but on-camera, what do you prefer?  I have resisted
 purchasing the sto-fen/tupperware-type accessories,  but maybe they
 are worth a look...? (ok, so that was 3 questions...)

The Sto-Fen type type tupperware stuff are relatively crappy at
diffusing the light but are good to cut down the output.

Most of the time, for on-camera or near camera portable use, I find
the LumiQuest Promax Softbox III (about an 8x9 diffuser) does a good
job of broadening the light source by a reasonable amount for close
quarters while being small enough not to get in the way. It cuts the
light output by 1-1.5 stops on average, depending on the particular
flash unit you're using. If the flash is still too strong, I tape a
sheet of translucent or thin white typing paper on the front of it
which cuts light output further by up to three stops. It's a great way
to throttle back a high powered flash.

Using it on the camera is a bit tricky because of the size of the box,
I almost never use flash on camera unless I'm bouncing it off a card
diffuser, wall or some other surface ... that is, it is pointed away
from the front of the camera so it cannot interfere with the lens. For
TTL-auto, I use dedicated remote cables or wireless remote if the
camera and flash support it. For manual operation, a pair of
inexpensive RF triggers is all I use nowadays ... I recently got a set
of four new Cactus V5 triggers which can be used to both trigger the
flash units and remotely trigger the camera. Having a flash on a
lightstand or in the hands of an assistant, right near where it might
be if on the camera, makes the camera much much more manageable if
that's the lighting you're looking for.

-- 
Godfrey
  godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com

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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Paul Stenquist
I've been less than happy with the LumiQuest Softbox III. It's harsh as an 
on-camera diffuser with a hot spot in the middle. For on-camera I much prefer 
the Omni-Bounce, with the flash head tilted up at 45 degrees or the 
Lightsphere. 
Paul

On Jul 13, 2011, at 3:10 PM, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

 On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 11:50 AM, Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net 
 wrote:
 Distance may have been a factor.  We were in fairly tight quarters,
 huddled in the shade of the lighthouse...
 
 Bear with me for one more question?  When you say diffuser, what do
 you mean in this situation?  I use diffusers all the time with
 off-camera flash, but on-camera, what do you prefer?  I have resisted
 purchasing the sto-fen/tupperware-type accessories,  but maybe they
 are worth a look...? (ok, so that was 3 questions...)
 
 The Sto-Fen type type tupperware stuff are relatively crappy at
 diffusing the light but are good to cut down the output.
 
 Most of the time, for on-camera or near camera portable use, I find
 the LumiQuest Promax Softbox III (about an 8x9 diffuser) does a good
 job of broadening the light source by a reasonable amount for close
 quarters while being small enough not to get in the way. It cuts the
 light output by 1-1.5 stops on average, depending on the particular
 flash unit you're using. If the flash is still too strong, I tape a
 sheet of translucent or thin white typing paper on the front of it
 which cuts light output further by up to three stops. It's a great way
 to throttle back a high powered flash.
 
 Using it on the camera is a bit tricky because of the size of the box,
 I almost never use flash on camera unless I'm bouncing it off a card
 diffuser, wall or some other surface ... that is, it is pointed away
 from the front of the camera so it cannot interfere with the lens. For
 TTL-auto, I use dedicated remote cables or wireless remote if the
 camera and flash support it. For manual operation, a pair of
 inexpensive RF triggers is all I use nowadays ... I recently got a set
 of four new Cactus V5 triggers which can be used to both trigger the
 flash units and remotely trigger the camera. Having a flash on a
 lightstand or in the hands of an assistant, right near where it might
 be if on the camera, makes the camera much much more manageable if
 that's the lighting you're looking for.
 
 -- 
 Godfrey
   godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com
 
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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread P. J. Alling
I usuall do fill flash the old fashioned way, because you know, there's 
no sensors to get confused and screw up exposure.


On 7/13/2011 11:11 AM, Christine Nielsen wrote:

Last night, I attended a portrait workshop.  We were shooting at the
beach, at the end of the day.  It was still very bright, and in the
shade of a lighthouse, some fill was required on our models' faces.
No problem.  I had the AF540 on my k-7...using aperture priority mode,
and -1.5 Flash EV, I took some shots.  Gah.  Way overexposed.  I
fiddled, set the flash to high-speed sync, and tried again.  Still
hot.  I proceeded to try several other manipulations... none really
working, until I settled on a fully manual operation for exposure, and
flash (1/16).

It shouldn't have to be this way, though, right?  I should be able to
use pttl to provide (more or less) the right amount of fill, yes? I'm
even pretty sure I've done it successfully in the past, though it
would have been with the AF360.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks,
-c




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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread John Sessoms

From: Christine Nielsen

On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 11:54 AM, John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com wrote:


The other problem I've had with the AF540 is you can't set it the way you
want it and have it stay there. If it powers down, it reverts to full power
when you wake it back up.


Funny, there's a problem I haven't had.  I often use my 540  360,
together, on manual settings, as studio strobes for product
photography.  I can set them up, work for a while, leave them to power
off on their own, and then return the next day  they're on the same
settings as before when they power up.
Go figure!


Maybe mine is defective. It wouldn't be the first defective AF540 I've had.

The first one was replaced under warranty by this one, but the warranty 
has run out by now.


At this point, I'm not even going to worry about it. I've got Vivitar 
285HVs that do what I want them to do.



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Re: Can we talk about fill flash pttl?

2011-07-13 Thread Christine Aguila
Hi Christine:  I do pretty much what is stated below.  Also, I have a 
fitted, square diffuser and often use the bounce angle, but obviously 
outside you can't bounce against the clouds, but sometimes this angle still 
helps when I want just a hint of light.  Cheers, Christine/Chicago





- Original Message - 
From: Christine Nielsen ch...@inielsen.net

To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2011 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: Can we talk about fill flash  pttl?


Thanks for your reply, Godfrey.  Everything you said syncs with
everything I've been taught about using flash... And your
recommendation:


When I do use TTL flash automation systems for fill flash, I find the
only way to get consistent results with almost any camera and flash
system is to:
- Set camera to Manual exposure
- Pick an ISO, aperture and exposure time to give appropriately
correct main light exposure for the subject
- Set the Flash EV-compensation control to work in the correct range,
typically -2 to -1.3 EV is about right.


Is 'zactly what I did. (manual exposure/ pttl flash/ -1.5 to -2EV/ hss
was one of my iterations)  Still, I got uneven results.  Now, maybe I
still goofed in setting the flash EV in camera rather than on the
unit... or in any number of other ways...

I hold onto hope for user error, but the (anecdotal) evidence on the
other side is mounting.  And when looking for guidance from the
(Canikon-wielding) workshop leader?  Oh, don't ask me about flash!!
I just set it on AUTO  go!  Heehee!!!  Maddening.

Oh well.   I'm happy that I'm at least comfortable enough navigating
with a manual flash until I get this sorted out.

Thanks again,
-c



On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 12:15 PM, Godfrey DiGiorgi gdigio...@gmail.com 
wrote:

I see questions like this quite often when I'm teaching workshops,
from people with all different kinds of camera-flash systems.

If you want to understand using a dedicated, auto-metering flash
system like this, see Joe McNally's books, workshops and videos.
They're based on Nikon equipment and their iTTL system, likely the
best in the business, but the principles apply to any dedicated flash
automation setup. Rick Sammon recently did a similar book based
around the Canon E-TTL flash system, it's probably in the same
ballpark.

Those who prefer simpler, more basic flash use should look into the
Strobist world for tutorials and ideas. http://strobist.blogspot.com/

I've been using flash illumination, for fill, main light, multi-light
setups etc, since the 1970s. To me, all these dedicated autoflash
systems are on the one hand a great convenience for some things and a
huge handicap for other things. To me, understanding how they work and
how to control lighting with them is often more work than
understanding how to use a simple, basic, manual flash system. Even
when I was shooting film, I preferred manual flash systems. With
digital, it's such a piece of cake I don't understand the need for all
the complexity of a dedicated autoflash system.

Proper exposure is a combination of knowing what your intent is, a few
simple things about the light sources you're using, and understanding
how to manipulate the camera settings and the flash unit to produce
the results desired.

If the main light is the flash:
- Aperture controls the focus zone.
- ISO and exposure time @ an aperture setting control how much ambient
light fill you get.
- Distance and flash output control the intensity of the main light.

If the main light is ambient and the flash is used for fill:
- The rules above apply but you consider the ambient light as the main
source and reduce flash illumination relative to it.

When I do use TTL flash automation systems for fill flash, I find the
only way to get consistent results with almost any camera and flash
system is to:
- Set camera to Manual exposure
- Pick an ISO, aperture and exposure time to give appropriately
correct main light exposure for the subject
- Set the Flash EV-compensation control to work in the correct range,
typically -2 to -1.3 EV is about right.

This puts the burden of the flash exposure on the camera and flash
unit, balancing against the ambient light setting which is fixed and
manual. Using high speed sync options of the flash system is often
called for if you're working in bright sunlight because you have a lot
more flexibility on exposure time that way (not lmited to X-sync
shutter time setting). You need to be sensitive to the limits of the
flash automation system ... how much power does the flash unit have at
most in the mode you're using, how *little* power can it be throttled
back to on automatic, etc ... and adjust ISO settings, aperture
setting, and distance to the flash to suit those limitations. (The
only real difference when using auto-TTL metering when doing this and
working the flash exposure by manual power settings is that the flash
unit will automatically accommodate minor changes in subject
reflectivity and distance, rather than you