Re: Re: Sunny 16 rule
Going from 125 to 250 is a one stop change, so if you want to shoot ISO 100 at f11, bump the shutter up to 1/250. If you think of the shutter and aperture stops as interchangeable, you can just swap one for the other. So for every stop you open up the aperture, set the shutter one stop faster, and vice versa. Hope this helps! - MCC At 07:53 AM 12/4/01 -0500, you wrote: >Using this assumtion,between shutters speeds are we looking >at about a 1-2 stop change.By that i mean going from 1/125 to 1/250 >ISO 100 base,is there a stop difference of 2?I should knowe this >but.. > >Dave(picking up non metering equip. soon)Brooks > Begin Original Message > From: Mark Cassino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 21:56:40 -0500 >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Re: Sunny 16 rule > >On a clear sunny day, set the aperture to f16 and the shutter speed to the >inverse of the film speed (e.g. 1/100 (or 1/125) for ISO 100, 1/200 (or >1/250) for ISO 200, etc). Of course, you can elaborate from there - f 8 >and 1/500 for ISO 100 film for example. > >You probably should use print film for this, since it is more forgiving in >exposure than slide film. > >Good luck! > >- MCC > >At 06:45 PM 12/3/01 -0800, you wrote: > >Sorry to be a bore, > >But can someone explain the Sunny 16th rule for me, as I am not going to > >have my SPF meter repaired. I also want to use my newly acquired S1a, so I > >need to practice exposures without the aid of a meter. I will eventually > >buy one, but not now. > >Regards > >James > >- > >This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, > >go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to > >visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . > >- - - - - - - - - - >Mark Cassino >Kalamazoo, MI >[EMAIL PROTECTED] >- - - - - - - - - - >Photos: >http://www.markcassino.com >- - - - - - - - - - >- >This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, >go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to >visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . > > > End Original Message > > > >Pentax User >Stouffville Ontario Canada > >Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail >- >This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, >go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to >visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - - - - - - - - - - Mark Cassino Kalamazoo, MI [EMAIL PROTECTED] - - - - - - - - - - Photos: http://www.markcassino.com - - - - - - - - - - - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Sunny 16 rule
On a clear sunny day, set the aperture to f16 and the shutter speed to the inverse of the film speed (e.g. 1/100 (or 1/125) for ISO 100, 1/200 (or 1/250) for ISO 200, etc). Of course, you can elaborate from there - f 8 and 1/500 for ISO 100 film for example. You probably should use print film for this, since it is more forgiving in exposure than slide film. Good luck! - MCC At 06:45 PM 12/3/01 -0800, you wrote: >Sorry to be a bore, >But can someone explain the Sunny 16th rule for me, as I am not going to >have my SPF meter repaired. I also want to use my newly acquired S1a, so I >need to practice exposures without the aid of a meter. I will eventually >buy one, but not now. >Regards >James >- >This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, >go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to >visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - - - - - - - - - - Mark Cassino Kalamazoo, MI [EMAIL PROTECTED] - - - - - - - - - - Photos: http://www.markcassino.com - - - - - - - - - - - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Sunny 16 rule
Hi, James, Stated simply: "On a bright, sunny day, the correct exposure for any subject is f/16 at the shutter speed nearest to the reciprocal of the film speed." I took that directly from a site called "The Ultimate Exposure Computer". To see further elaboration, here's the site: http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm regards, frank jmadams wrote: > Sorry to be a bore, > But can someone explain the Sunny 16th rule for me, as I am not going to > have my SPF meter repaired. I also want to use my newly acquired S1a, so I > need to practice exposures without the aid of a meter. I will eventually > buy one, but not now. > Regards > James > - > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to > visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . -- "The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears it is true." -J. Robert Oppenheimer - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Sunny 16 rule
> Sorry to be a bore, > But can someone explain the Sunny 16th rule for me, as I am not going to > have my SPF meter repaired. I also want to use my newly acquired S1a, so I > need to practice exposures without the aid of a meter. I will eventually > buy one, but not now. > Regards > James > I shoot very often with color neg film and no meter. Sunny f16 = 1/iso film speed at f16 hazy open up 1 stop fully overcast or open shade open up 3 stops Works for me without fail... JCO - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Sunny 16 rule
Sorry to be a bore, But can someone explain the Sunny 16th rule for me, as I am not going to have my SPF meter repaired. I also want to use my newly acquired S1a, so I need to practice exposures without the aid of a meter. I will eventually buy one, but not now. Regards James - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Sunny 16 Rule
Thanks everybody, for a lot of information on how to handle contrasty subjects; was just noticing that the Sunny 16 rule is what I would have got had I carried an incident light meter along. Just a thought: would using high speed film help? I understand they offer lowered contrast. Bob, the area in which I'm doing this shoot (and the panthers) are in a huge reserve- sort of: the fencing is only 8'-0" or so high and I've SEEN these cats casually leap over 10' in a single bound. The rangers are the smart guys; they won't go near the place until it's near noon! Thanks, RK Bob Walkden wrote: > Hi, > > I can't add anything technical to the good advice Joe Tainter gave > you. Getting a scan is a good idea because you will have a much better > idea of what you've got, and how much is a printing error. > > Panther territory? Kodak used to do a film called Panther - perhaps > that's what it was meant for :o) > > Is this landscape in a reserve? If so, could you arrange to go at a > time when you're accompanied by rangers? Perhaps it would involve an > overnight stay, but I'm sure that would only add to the enjoyment! - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Sunny 16 Rule
RK, Aside from the recommendations others have made, here's a few more off-the-wall suggestions that might help... You might consider flashing the film to obtain more details in the shadow areas. It might not help much though given the contrast range, but is worth an experiment. Also, I've noticed that Kodak film (what I mostly shoot) developed and printed with Fuji supplies tend to be more contrasty than Kodak film developed and printed on Kodak supplies -- specifically, the shadows areas loose detail and go cmopletely black way too quickly. Therefore, you might try and experiment of matching film brands with processing if you are not already doing so (or how about a mismatch if you are arealdy doing so?). help that helps, Patrick White ([EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]) >I've messed up some very important landscape shots- I had to take them >about just after noon in blazing sunlight and the resulting images are >ghastly: burnt out highlights with deep shadows. >I showed them to a pro and he recommended I use the Sunny 16 rule >whenever I take photos in bright sunshine- i.e., I ignore the CW meter >reading. >Is this good advice? I shoot print film and my usual outfit for outdoor >shots would be a MZ5+17mm Tokina - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re[2]: Sunny 16 Rule
Hi, thanks Tom. It seems that I didn't know about this because I've been shooting slides and using an incident meter for so long. --- Bob mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Monday, May 07, 2001, 12:21:21 AM, you wrote: > Hi Bob: > The Sunny-16 rule came about long and long ago, before the > manufactures removed the the safety factor of about one stop > that they used in rating the films. That is, film went from > 200ASA to 400ASA without any change in the emulsion. This > happened back in the late fifties. For best results you need > to put that one stop back into the film rating. Thus you > need to use 1/2 the ASA, or Sunny-11 to get the same results > as you did back then. > If you look in something like the film guide book Focal > Press publishes, you will note most negative films have a > one stop underexposure rating and a two stop overexposure > rating. Using the sunny 16 rule your are several times more > likely to underexpose than over expose. Also the brightest > sunlight is seldom more than one stop brighter than the > Sunny 16 predicts, so you only get -in the worst case- one > stop overexposure, but can get several stops underexposure > using the Sunny-16 rule. > That said many modern color negative films have a very wide > exposure latitude so can take several stops overexposure, > but most only take one or two stops of underexposure so it > may be better to shift the exposure a couple of stops with > film like Kodak MAX. That is, rate it at 200 instead or 800. > These changes did not apply to slide film because it did not > have the latitude to allow it, so the Sunny-16 rule still > applies to it. Though in truth I have underexposed more > slides than I have overexposed, so I tend to use Sunny-11 > there also. But, I usually use an incident meter and that is > far more accurate than any rule of thumb. > In the case of the original poster, he should check and see > if his problem is not the lab rather than exposure before he > does anything else. > --Tom - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Sunny 16 Rule
RK writes: > I've messed up some very important landscape shots- I had to take them > about just after noon in blazing sunlight and the resulting images are > ghastly: burnt out highlights with deep shadows. If you've gone off the end of both your highlights and your shadows then there's not really a lot you can do with your exposure. Typically on a sunny day you have to pick one: either you get highlight detail or you get shadow detail. IMO your best bet in this situation is to come back when the light is a bit better (partially or fully overcast days are great for reducing contrast but they can also make the picture look bland). You could also try a really low-contrast print film (a portrait film could work) but the paper used in printing doesn't tend to hold much contrast so it might not buy you a lot. A good scan of a print film will reveal much more detail than any print, and you can soften it further in Photoshop to get as much detail as possible in your final print. You could also shoot B&W film if that is an option. You can tailor the exposure and processing to suit the contrast in your scene (you may have heard of Ansel Adams' zone system). Cheers, - Dave David A. Mann, B.E. (Elec) http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/ "Why is it that if an adult behaves like a child they lock him up, while children are allowed to run free on the streets?" -- Garfield - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Sunny 16 Rule
Kevin Thornsberry writes: > Some rare shots just can't be metered. That's when it pays to be a good guesser > and a bracketer. Sometimes you don't even get the chance to bracket, particularly with a manual camera. Cheers, - Dave David A. Mann, B.E. (Elec) http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/ "Why is it that if an adult behaves like a child they lock him up, while children are allowed to run free on the streets?" -- Garfield - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Sunny 16 Rule
Just a note on Sunny 16 by the way. I've heard in the past that to shoot the moon use sunny 16. Makes sense since the moon is directly lit by the sun. I tried it the other day. When I picked up the pictures the lady at the lab had a fit at how good they turned out. Thought maybe somebody could use the tip. application/ms-tnef
RE: Sunny 16 Rule
Not bad advice but bracket until you are comfortable with your camera and film. I'm currently reading a book on light which recommends taking a week or so and force yourself to learn to judge with your eye sunny sixteen corrections. Some rare shots just can't be metered. That's when it pays to be a good guesser and a bracketer. As to your contrasty midday photos I don't think sunny 16 will help. Landscapes are traditionally tough at midday. -Original Message- From: RK [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 2:53 AM To: Pentax discuss Subject: Sunny 16 Rule I've messed up some very important landscape shots- I had to take them about just after noon in blazing sunlight and the resulting images are ghastly: burnt out highlights with deep shadows. I showed them to a pro and he recommended I use the Sunny 16 rule whenever I take photos in bright sunshine- i.e., I ignore the CW meter reading. Is this good advice? I shoot print film and my usual outfit for outdoor shots would be a MZ5+17mm Tokina Thanks. RK Yeah, I know late morning would have been great for such shots but that was not possible here. Or should I just meter for the highlights next time (there'll be a next time tomorrow!) - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . application/ms-tnef
Re: Sunny 16 Rule
Unfortunately, my approach to photography is purely casual and non artistic (I have a lousy eye for art). My first 2 cameras were totally manual and lacked metering. They were Exa II and Miranda G. I had lots of fun experimenting with exposure both B&W and reversal films. My brain developed a database for exposure settings. This goes back to 1965~1975. As soon as I upgraded to auto everything cameras, the fun dissapeared. So taking out a meterless Akarelle or my new toy Horseman 970, is like my second childhood. I'm starting to have fun again. Between the sunny 16 rule and a little bit of chutzpa, It's my way of enjoying photograpy. P.S. For serious shooting, I rely on my Super Program's metering system. Jeff - Original Message - From: "Buford Terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 6:34 PM Subject: Re: Sunny 16 Rule > The answer to this, like most photo questions, is what are you trying to do? > Do you just want an acceptable "been there, done that" image or do you > have some specific use or visualization in mind? Sweet 16 will get you > a workable image of sorts; sweet 16 with 1-stop brackets up and down > will definitely get you something. But if you are shooting for reproduction > in a specific medium -- glossy magazine, fine art print, B&W, electronic, > etc -- or if you have a specific visualization in mind, some combination > of spot- and center-weighted -metering is probably called for. > Programmed metering is probably too unpredictable in those circumstances. > > Those are the kinds of scenes that drive almost all B&W landscapists to > the Zone System. > > Buford C. Terrell > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Professor of Law(713) 646-1857 > South Texas College of Law > 1303 San Jacinto Houston, TX 77002 > +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ > A deep respect for Law requires intense skepticism > toward every law. > +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ > - > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to > visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . > - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Sunny 16 Rule
Hi Bob: The Sunny-16 rule came about long and long ago, before the manufactures removed the the safety factor of about one stop that they used in rating the films. That is, film went from 200ASA to 400ASA without any change in the emulsion. This happened back in the late fifties. For best results you need to put that one stop back into the film rating. Thus you need to use 1/2 the ASA, or Sunny-11 to get the same results as you did back then. If you look in something like the film guide book Focal Press publishes, you will note most negative films have a one stop underexposure rating and a two stop overexposure rating. Using the sunny 16 rule your are several times more likely to underexpose than over expose. Also the brightest sunlight is seldom more than one stop brighter than the Sunny 16 predicts, so you only get -in the worst case- one stop overexposure, but can get several stops underexposure using the Sunny-16 rule. That said many modern color negative films have a very wide exposure latitude so can take several stops overexposure, but most only take one or two stops of underexposure so it may be better to shift the exposure a couple of stops with film like Kodak MAX. That is, rate it at 200 instead or 800. These changes did not apply to slide film because it did not have the latitude to allow it, so the Sunny-16 rule still applies to it. Though in truth I have underexposed more slides than I have overexposed, so I tend to use Sunny-11 there also. But, I usually use an incident meter and that is far more accurate than any rule of thumb. In the case of the original poster, he should check and see if his problem is not the lab rather than exposure before he does anything else. --Tom Bob Walkden wrote: > > Hi Norm, > > if they did then they were wrong (or at least, nobody's told me about > the change). I can't imagine how film emulsions on their own would > affect this. You'd also have to recalibrate all meters. It may be that > you're getting confused with the fact that meters are calibrated on > 18% grey because early measurements supported the idea that average > reflexivity in mid latitudes was 18% at midday in midsummer. However, > more recent measurements claim that the average is 13%. Nevertheless, > it doesn't seem to make any difference to any pictures, so there seems > no reason to change anything. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Sunny 16 Rule
At 03:30 PM 05/06/2001 -0400, you wrote: >Acouple of years ago, I shot a roll of negative film with a camera >(Akarelle) I bought at a flea market, for $15 CDN. >I used the exposure sheet supplied with the film for my exposure reference. >The prints came out properly exposed (a real shocker). >There's plenty of exposure latitude in today's films that 2 stops over or >under is still acceptable. > >Jeff > The answer to this, like most photo questions, is what are you trying to do? Do you just want an acceptable "been there, done that" image or do you have some specific use or visualization in mind? Sweet 16 will get you a workable image of sorts; sweet 16 with 1-stop brackets up and down will definitely get you something. But if you are shooting for reproduction in a specific medium -- glossy magazine, fine art print, B&W, electronic, etc -- or if you have a specific visualization in mind, some combination of spot- and center-weighted -metering is probably called for. Programmed metering is probably too unpredictable in those circumstances. Those are the kinds of scenes that drive almost all B&W landscapists to the Zone System. Buford C. Terrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] Professor of Law(713) 646-1857 South Texas College of Law 1303 San Jacinto Houston, TX 77002 +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ A deep respect for Law requires intense skepticism toward every law. +-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Sunny 16 Rule
Living in New Mexico and working sometimes in Mali, I shoot in bright, high-contrast light at whatever time of day I encounter something I need or want to photograph. Color negative film can capture the brightness range I usually encounter pretty well, but most color print papers cannot. A low-contrast portrait paper might do better for you, but you might lose some contrast that you want. To get around this problem I realized I had to do two things: (1) Shoot tranparency film (and bracket). It has less latitude than negative film, but more than color paper. (2) Go digital. Your negatives probably have detail that color print paper won't reveal. With scanned negatives, I can reduce contrast and print on my Epson 870, and get a better print that would be possible with traditional printing. Also, Gold is a high-contrast, high-saturation film. You might try Kodak Supra, a film made for photojournalists. It is tough, durable, inexpensive, and good. (You might need to order it through the mail, depending on where you live.) Supra 400 has more contrast than its predecessor, Ektapress PJ 400, but will probably give you better results than Gold in high-contrast lighting. Some people shoot Portra for low-contrast, but I have found it too flat outdoors. Fuji NPH is good too. Joe - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Sunny 16 Rule
Hi Bob, Thanks for taking the time to post that very clear note on what might have gone wrong with my shots: Perhaps I wasn't as clear as I should have been: I did base my exposures for the shadows and the lab printer has tried squeeze out some detail in the highlights by overexposing the print- so now I have no detail in either the highlights or the shadows :-( However, I can see the negative has a lot of detail: I now plan to get the negative scanned and then try and compress the contrast range in Photoshop- comments? I used Kodak Gold print film; the predominant tones in the scenery were around 75% blazing sunshine with the balance in fairly deep shadows (an open, thinly wooded forest with hills in the distance). Contrast range : perhaps 4:1 or more. Do an early morning or late evening shoot? This is panther territory and is about 6 hours drive from my place so I don't think that's an option. Regards, RK Bob Walkden wrote: > As far as advice to RK goes, well it depends. I've found sunny-16 to > be quite reliable in the situations where you'd expect it to be > reliable. ie, bright day with the sun behind me, and here in the UK > there is a 3-stop difference between the highest and lowest reading, > when the lowest reading is open shade. But if I wanted shadow detail > I'd expose for the shadows or possibly use fill flash or a reflector > if I had to include the sunlit highlights. > > Your exposures may have been wrong because the centre-weighting > encompassed some very non-average elements, but I don't really see how > it could have ruined both the highlights _and_ the shadows unless the > brightness range of the scene far exceeded the latitude of your film. > You'd need to tell us a bit more about the type of film you were using, > what the predominant tones in the metering area were, and what the > brightness range of the scene was. > > It's not usually a good time of day to be taking pictures. Any > photographer worth his salt rests in some cool dark cantina with a > glass of golden, foaming throat-charmer during the noonday hours. Why > do they have to be done at that time of day? Why not wait until your > shadow is longer than your height, or get up before sunrise? > > If you really must take pictures at noon, I'd recommend using an incident > meter, measuring the light falling on the most important element > of the scene, and basing your exposure around that. > - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Sunny 16 Rule
Without going into a full blown discussion of the zone system, what is happening is that the film does not have enough latitude to cover the range of exposure values that is found in a bright, mid day scene. Typically, negative film can cover about a 10 stops range, and about 7 stops difference with detail. Slide film is less. The meter takes an average, between these dark shadows and bright highlights, and ends up with an exposure value that doesn't capture either. I don't think that using the Sunny 16 rule will help much in this situation. The zone system says you should try to get the shadow detail in, in other words take a meter reading for the shadows, then shoot 2 stops less than this metering reading (this will place the shadows into the area of the range that's darkest but detail is still visible). However, this doesn't help the highlights any, they will probably still blow out. One thing you can do is, if you develop your own film, and this is b&w negative film, is to underdevelop the film. This will expand the range of the film, and lower the contrast for better negatives. Todd At 01:23 PM 5/6/01 +0530, you wrote: >I've messed up some very important landscape shots- I had to take them >about just after noon in blazing sunlight and the resulting images are >ghastly: burnt out highlights with deep shadows. >I showed them to a pro and he recommended I use the Sunny 16 rule >whenever I take photos in bright sunshine- i.e., I ignore the CW meter >reading. >Is this good advice? I shoot print film and my usual outfit for outdoor >shots would be a MZ5+17mm Tokina >Thanks. >RK >Yeah, I know late morning would have been great for such shots but that >was not possible here. >Or should I just meter for the highlights next time (there'll be a next >time tomorrow!) > > - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re[2]: Sunny 16 Rule
Hi Norm, if they did then they were wrong (or at least, nobody's told me about the change). I can't imagine how film emulsions on their own would affect this. You'd also have to recalibrate all meters. It may be that you're getting confused with the fact that meters are calibrated on 18% grey because early measurements supported the idea that average reflexivity in mid latitudes was 18% at midday in midsummer. However, more recent measurements claim that the average is 13%. Nevertheless, it doesn't seem to make any difference to any pictures, so there seems no reason to change anything. As far as advice to RK goes, well it depends. I've found sunny-16 to be quite reliable in the situations where you'd expect it to be reliable. ie, bright day with the sun behind me, and here in the UK there is a 3-stop difference between the highest and lowest reading, when the lowest reading is open shade. But if I wanted shadow detail I'd expose for the shadows or possibly use fill flash or a reflector if I had to include the sunlit highlights. Your exposures may have been wrong because the centre-weighting encompassed some very non-average elements, but I don't really see how it could have ruined both the highlights _and_ the shadows unless the brightness range of the scene far exceeded the latitude of your film. You'd need to tell us a bit more about the type of film you were using, what the predominant tones in the metering area were, and what the brightness range of the scene was. It's not usually a good time of day to be taking pictures. Any photographer worth his salt rests in some cool dark cantina with a glass of golden, foaming throat-charmer during the noonday hours. Why do they have to be done at that time of day? Why not wait until your shadow is longer than your height, or get up before sunrise? If you really must take pictures at noon, I'd recommend using an incident meter, measuring the light falling on the most important element of the scene, and basing your exposure around that. --- Bob mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sunday, May 06, 2001, 1:47:32 PM, you wrote: > Didn't someone on this list mention a while back that the Sunny 16 rule > doesn't necessarily apply today due to advances in film emulsion? Or > something like that... > Norm > RK wrote: >> I've messed up some very important landscape shots- I had to take them >> about just after noon in blazing sunlight and the resulting images are >> ghastly: burnt out highlights with deep shadows. >> I showed them to a pro and he recommended I use the Sunny 16 rule >> whenever I take photos in bright sunshine- i.e., I ignore the CW meter >> reading. >> Is this good advice? I shoot print film and my usual outfit for outdoor >> shots would be a MZ5+17mm Tokina - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Sunny 16 Rule
Assuming that you are shooting in the same lighting conditions, double up on your pictures by shooting one using the Sunny 16 rule and another using the meter. The Sunny 16 rule is pretty accurate. The film makers used to always recommend it (perhaps paraphrased a bit) when they were still including instruction sheets with each roll of film. Also, if the distances are not enormous, you could use a bit of fill flash to open up the shadows. Sometimes it takes a "mojo" flash to do that, though. :-) Len --- > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of RK > Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 2:53 AM > To: Pentax discuss > Subject: Sunny 16 Rule > > > I've messed up some very important landscape shots- I > had to take them > about just after noon in blazing sunlight and the > resulting images are > ghastly: burnt out highlights with deep shadows. > I showed them to a pro and he recommended I use the > Sunny 16 rule > whenever I take photos in bright sunshine- i.e., I > ignore the CW meter > reading. > Is this good advice? I shoot print film and my usual > outfit for outdoor > shots would be a MZ5+17mm Tokina > Thanks. > RK > Yeah, I know late morning would have been great for > such shots but that > was not possible here. > Or should I just meter for the highlights next time > (there'll be a next > time tomorrow!) > > > - > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. > To unsubscribe, > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. > Don't forget to > visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . > - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Sunny 16 Rule
Didn't someone on this list mention a while back that the Sunny 16 rule doesn't necessarily apply today due to advances in film emulsion? Or something like that... Norm RK wrote: > I've messed up some very important landscape shots- I had to take them > about just after noon in blazing sunlight and the resulting images are > ghastly: burnt out highlights with deep shadows. > I showed them to a pro and he recommended I use the Sunny 16 rule > whenever I take photos in bright sunshine- i.e., I ignore the CW meter > reading. > Is this good advice? I shoot print film and my usual outfit for outdoor > shots would be a MZ5+17mm Tokina - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Sunny 16 Rule
I've messed up some very important landscape shots- I had to take them about just after noon in blazing sunlight and the resulting images are ghastly: burnt out highlights with deep shadows. I showed them to a pro and he recommended I use the Sunny 16 rule whenever I take photos in bright sunshine- i.e., I ignore the CW meter reading. Is this good advice? I shoot print film and my usual outfit for outdoor shots would be a MZ5+17mm Tokina Thanks. RK Yeah, I know late morning would have been great for such shots but that was not possible here. Or should I just meter for the highlights next time (there'll be a next time tomorrow!) - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
