[pinhole-discussion] exposure calculator discs (was re: new but not a newbie)
There are a few exposure calculators here... http://www.rahji.com/exposure.php3 let me know if you see any errors in the text as well. thanks, rob
[pinhole-discussion] Re: used book options
Hi gang, I also find that www.abebooks.com is also an excellent source for used and out of print books. Joe Besse Please visit my web site on the Bromoil process http://members.aol.com/joebesse/Bromoil/JB.html
[pinhole-discussion] new airline joys with pinhole
Hi all, This is in response to a thread we had a month or so ago. I just returned from a week of shooting in and around Grand Rapids, MI. To my surprise, the Grand Rapids airport is one of 5 nationwide which has installed the latest and greatest in x-ray technology. Immediately as I entered the airport my checked baggage was screened by (quite possibly) the largest machine I have ever seen. In big and bold letters it stated quite clearly that any and all film which is unknowingly passed through the machine will be destroyed. The gentleman who was running it was kind enough to hand check the film and place it in my checked baggage, however I was the only person in line and I received the impression that I was the exception, not the rule. As I had quite a bit of film and no room for it with my one carry-on, I had to check it through. However If you wish to carry your film on the flight, the same rules apply as before, just smile and ask politely to have the security hand check your film at the check point. Unfortunately as many of us shoot larger film it is not always successful, and with the new, high power x-ray machines, even the asa 50 is in danger of fogging. I fondly remember the time when it was quite safe to have your film in your checked baggage, as well as in your carry-on, but no longer when travelling to and from Grand Rapids, Michigan. As my laptop went through the x-ray machine without problem, I am getting closer to buying a digital camera and give up on film entirely. I imagine a state of the art Canon D60 with a pinhole bodycap would solve all of my travelling woes. Any donations of said equipment is greatly appreciated! :) Don - Do You Yahoo!? Sign-up for Video Highlights of 2002 FIFA World Cup
Re: [pinhole-discussion] FIlm reciprocity
A good solution to deal with proper development after a reciprocity-adjusted exposure is to use a compensation developer like Accufine. I expose HP5+ sheeet film and develop close to the indicated times for EI 800 and the results are well detailed, if slightly flat negatives and print on Forte Fortezo #3 paper or something similar. The theory is that compensation developers exhaust themselves in the highlights while continuing to develop up the shadow areas. I use Accufine replenisher to keep the solution active and have been using the same solution for almost a year now - not a bad thing when you have a well and septic system rather than municipal water/waste systems, no spent developer to deal with. TMax R.S. also is good in that regard, if you want the higher contrast negatives that TMY TMX are prone to give and their lesser reciprocity adjustments. Z _ Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
[pinhole-discussion] C-41and ilfochrome super deluxe
while searching the internet for paper negatives i came across the work of marian roth- she makes quote.. color images made on mural paper either direct positive or C-41 which i cut and load into light tight tubes in the darkroomred snd yellow images are original paper negatives made in the van onto C-41 negative paper. high gloss blue are direct positives exposed on ilfochrome super deluxe are any of you familiar with either of these processes and what kind of success have you had? the images are beautiful. check out the site www.junebateman.com thanks in advance _ Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com
Re: [pinhole-discussion] new but not a newbie , kinda but not really
Chad, I use an older gossen luna-six for pinhole, unfortunately it only goes to f90, but I just set the meter to ASA 25 when shooting tmax 100 and use the reading on f90 - it works well for my work. Don chad white chadwh...@mac.com wrote: what is a good light meter for pinhole f-stops ? i am lurking e-bay ,i what to buy a light meter that can be used practically for pinhole. i don't want to use the math. i just want a simple light meter so i can spend my energy taking pinhole images. i noticed that most light-meters stop about f-16. f-225 or higher is better for me. ___ Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML Pinhole-Discussion mailing list Pinhole-Discussion@p at ??? unsubscribe or change your account at http://www.???/discussion/ - Do You Yahoo!? Sign-up for Video Highlights of 2002 FIFA World Cup
[pinhole-discussion] FIlm reciprocity
If you happen to use 120 film in your pinhole, give Fuji Neopan Acros a try. This wonderful film has no reciprocity correction for the firs two minutes, and only one half stop from 2 minutes to 20 minutes. This quality makes it ideal for night and/or pinhole photographs. Last night I made 20 minute pinhole exposures in some of the marinas here. They are terrific. If you live in Japan, or have contacts there, you can obtain Acros in4X5 and 8X10 sizes. Another respondent mentioned shortening development time when using long exposures. The reason fro this is that as film is exposed for extended periods of time allows the highlights to gather immense quantities of light compared to the mid and lower tones. Extreme contrast is the result. Decreasing the development time causes the highlights to develop less in relation to the mid and lower tones thus reducing contrast. JIm
Re: [pinhole-discussion] new but not a newbie , kinda but not really
Try the Black Cat thing. I can't remember the rest of the name. You can find it under Black cat at pinhole resource and other camera places. It's not a meter but it will translate from f22 to the higher Fstops. It's a $20 carboard dial with a long list of exposure by condition suggestions too. - Original Message - From: chad white chadwh...@mac.com To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 1:05 AM Subject: [pinhole-discussion] new but not a newbie , kinda but not really what is a good light meter for pinhole f-stops ? i am lurking e-bay ,i what to buy a light meter that can be used practically for pinhole. i don't want to use the math. i just want a simple light meter so i can spend my energy taking pinhole images. i noticed that most light-meters stop about f-16. f-225 or higher is better for me. ___ Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML Pinhole-Discussion mailing list Pinhole-Discussion@p at ??? unsubscribe or change your account at http://www.???/discussion/
[pinhole-discussion] Re: time/life
the time/life books (not ansel adams) are some of my favorite. the black and white photography is reproduced as a duotone with silver (?) ink and looks amazing. the copy's not bad either... The Time/Life Books series (The Camera, The Negative, The Print) are fairly easy to find at used book stores. I often see the original hard cover editions available for about $10 each. You may want to keep looking for them. Mike Vande Bunt also, just got my film back from wwpd the other day... too late to upload to the site, but i thought i'd share it with the list... a short super 8 film of hula hooping. this was shot at the Headlands Center just before our pinhole film show there. the camera is home made. the total length is about 2 1/2 minutes when projected... /aaron
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Printing the giant pinhole image: a question to the list (was: WPPD image?)
The wet paper stain problem is common independent of size. Best to dry the exposed positive before you apply the developer. Alternatively, cut the negative into manageable sections (like 16 x 20) and you will be able to apply contrast filters to each section according to the density of the negative pieces... re-assembling the positive makes for interesting display possibilities Jim K ---BeginMessage--- James, This print is proving to be a much greater challenge than we ever anticipated and new issues seem to surface at every step along the way. It seemed that we had solved every problem along the way and were ready to do the final print this sunday. But we've encountered one last problem this weekend that has to do with a weird chemical reaction when printing a wet paper negative onto a wet unexposed RC paper (see further on) and suggestions from the list are welcome. The basic problem we had to solve after April 28 was the following: how do we make a contact positive of a 12.5 x 8.5 feet paper negative with substantial over-exposure in the center and substantial vignetting at the edges. This has raised much more complicated questions than just doing the basic room set-up and working out pinhole size, f/stop and exposure time to create the giant negative. First, you need the physical place to print and process an image that size. Then you need to develop a lighting system that will both cover the whole image and be heavily weigthed in the center to reduce the amount of dodging and burning required by the negative. You also need to find a way of doing whatever residual burning and dodging with a light source that is not single-directional (as is the case with an enlarger where you have full control over edges) but spreads widely and makes you lose control over edges. You also need to find a way of changing contrast filters during the exposure process (to deal with a negative that has large areas with substantial differences in contrast) with the constraint that the light source is 15 feet above the ground and you can't step into the print with a ladder to change contrast filters. Then you must make sure that the paper negative will stick face to face to the surface of the paper being exposed so that you have a sharp image all over. This is normally done by wetting the negative and the unexposed positive and squeegeeing them together. We thought we had pretty well solved every issue when we got together this Sunday to print the real print. But we encounterd a very weird reaction of the unexposed paper when wetted to be squeegged to the wetted paper negative. The paper had lost about 1 full stop in sensitivity and the positive had unseemly strains and stains all over. After much head scratching and testing, we think we can solve this by pre-washing the unexposed paper for about 30 minutes but I'd like to know more about what it is in the unexposed paper that might be responsible for this weird reaction. The paper we are using is Ilford Multigrade IV RC DeLuxe (Pearl). This is something I had never heard of before and I'd not encountered in my own printing from paper negatives before. But when doing tests with standard size paper, we found that this happens when the unexposed paper is left wet for several minutes before exposure and processing. Any thoughts or suggestions are most welcome. Cheers, Guy - Original Message - From: James Kellar pinh...@jameskellar.com To: Pinhole Disscussion Group pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 7:46 PM Subject: [pinhole-discussion] WPPD image? Guy, When are we going to see your WPPD image all put together and in a positive? I know it will not be as impressive as seeing it live, but seeing on my computer screen be second best. James James Kellar Co-manager of the Pinhole Discussion List pinh...@jameskellar.com ___ Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML Pinhole-Discussion mailing list Pinhole-Discussion@p at ??? unsubscribe or change your account at http://www.???/discussion/ ___ Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML Pinhole-Discussion mailing list Pinhole-Discussion@p at ??? unsubscribe or change your account at http://www.???/discussion/ ---End Message---
RE: [pinhole-discussion] long exposures, reciprocity failure and development times
I hate to even repeat this, as it is like a reoccurring nightmare etched into my brain...(laugh)... I studied under Wiley Sanderson at the University of Georgia and I remember one of his most outspoken mantras was this...You cannot over-develop, you can only prove under-exposure. For what it's worth...I thought I would throw that out even though it may not apply to this particular situation. Ronnie Pettit -Original Message- From: Bogdan Karasek [mailto:bkara...@videotron.ca] Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 11:17 AM To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] long exposures, reciprocity failure and development times Shannon Stoney wrote: I have a chart that shows reciprocity failure adjustments for various black and white films. This chart also suggests decreasing development times as exposure times increase. The reasoning is that reciprocity failure affects the shadow areas more than the highlight areas. Is this correct? I also have a pinhole time calculator that suggests INCREASING development times as exposure times increase. Which is correct? (Excuse the cross-posting if you read alt-photo-process and pinhole-discussion.) --shannon ___ Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML Pinhole-Discussion mailing list Pinhole-Discussion@p at ??? unsubscribe or change your account at http://www.???/discussion/ Hi, All the charts that I have seen and from from personal experience, an increase in exposure is always associated with a proportionate decrease in development time. Hope this helps. Bogdan -- __ Bogdan Karasek Montréal, Québece-mail: bkara...@videotron.ca Canada Wovon man nicht sprechen kann, darüber muss man schweigen What we cannot speak about we must pass over in silence Ludwig Wittgenstein ___ Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML Pinhole-Discussion mailing list Pinhole-Discussion@p at ??? unsubscribe or change your account at http://www.???/discussion/
Re: [pinhole-discussion] long exposures, reciprocity failure and development times
Shannon Stoney wrote: I have a chart that shows reciprocity failure adjustments for various black and white films. This chart also suggests decreasing development times as exposure times increase. The reasoning is that reciprocity failure affects the shadow areas more than the highlight areas. Is this correct? I also have a pinhole time calculator that suggests INCREASING development times as exposure times increase. Which is correct? (Excuse the cross-posting if you read alt-photo-process and pinhole-discussion.) --shannon ___ Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML Pinhole-Discussion mailing list Pinhole-Discussion@p at ??? unsubscribe or change your account at http://www.???/discussion/ Hi, All the charts that I have seen and from from personal experience, an increase in exposure is always associated with a proportionate decrease in development time. Hope this helps. Bogdan -- __ Bogdan Karasek Montréal, Québece-mail: bkara...@videotron.ca Canada Wovon man nicht sprechen kann, darüber muss man schweigen What we cannot speak about we must pass over in silence Ludwig Wittgenstein
[pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #715 - 15 msgs
then after you read the exposure you must multiply in the reciprocity factor Right ? I often get confused here
[pinhole-discussion] long exposures, reciprocity failure and development times
I have a chart that shows reciprocity failure adjustments for various black and white films. This chart also suggests decreasing development times as exposure times increase. The reasoning is that reciprocity failure affects the shadow areas more than the highlight areas. Is this correct? I also have a pinhole time calculator that suggests INCREASING development times as exposure times increase. Which is correct? (Excuse the cross-posting if you read alt-photo-process and pinhole-discussion.) --shannon
[pinhole-discussion] Printing the giant pinhole image: a question to the list (was: WPPD image?)
James, This print is proving to be a much greater challenge than we ever anticipated and new issues seem to surface at every step along the way. It seemed that we had solved every problem along the way and were ready to do the final print this sunday. But we've encountered one last problem this weekend that has to do with a weird chemical reaction when printing a wet paper negative onto a wet unexposed RC paper (see further on) and suggestions from the list are welcome. The basic problem we had to solve after April 28 was the following: how do we make a contact positive of a 12.5 x 8.5 feet paper negative with substantial over-exposure in the center and substantial vignetting at the edges. This has raised much more complicated questions than just doing the basic room set-up and working out pinhole size, f/stop and exposure time to create the giant negative. First, you need the physical place to print and process an image that size. Then you need to develop a lighting system that will both cover the whole image and be heavily weigthed in the center to reduce the amount of dodging and burning required by the negative. You also need to find a way of doing whatever residual burning and dodging with a light source that is not single-directional (as is the case with an enlarger where you have full control over edges) but spreads widely and makes you lose control over edges. You also need to find a way of changing contrast filters during the exposure process (to deal with a negative that has large areas with substantial differences in contrast) with the constraint that the light source is 15 feet above the ground and you can't step into the print with a ladder to change contrast filters. Then you must make sure that the paper negative will stick face to face to the surface of the paper being exposed so that you have a sharp image all over. This is normally done by wetting the negative and the unexposed positive and squeegeeing them together. We thought we had pretty well solved every issue when we got together this Sunday to print the real print. But we encounterd a very weird reaction of the unexposed paper when wetted to be squeegged to the wetted paper negative. The paper had lost about 1 full stop in sensitivity and the positive had unseemly strains and stains all over. After much head scratching and testing, we think we can solve this by pre-washing the unexposed paper for about 30 minutes but I'd like to know more about what it is in the unexposed paper that might be responsible for this weird reaction. The paper we are using is Ilford Multigrade IV RC DeLuxe (Pearl). This is something I had never heard of before and I'd not encountered in my own printing from paper negatives before. But when doing tests with standard size paper, we found that this happens when the unexposed paper is left wet for several minutes before exposure and processing. Any thoughts or suggestions are most welcome. Cheers, Guy - Original Message - From: James Kellar pinh...@jameskellar.com To: Pinhole Disscussion Group pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 7:46 PM Subject: [pinhole-discussion] WPPD image? Guy, When are we going to see your WPPD image all put together and in a positive? I know it will not be as impressive as seeing it live, but seeing on my computer screen be second best. James James Kellar Co-manager of the Pinhole Discussion List pinh...@jameskellar.com ___ Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML Pinhole-Discussion mailing list Pinhole-Discussion@p at ??? unsubscribe or change your account at http://www.???/discussion/
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Photog book questions
Murray, The best source for finding used books (and used books prices) on the Internet is Bookfinder.com http://www.bookfinder.com/ Enter the information, press search and it will bring back the information from hundreds of booksellers accross North America and even Europe. I use it everytime I'm tempted to buy a book on eBay. It tells me what market prices are as opposed to inflated eBay prices... L.P. Clerc has a book with a highly technical chapter on pinhole photography (in French I'm afraid) but he has been for very long one the best reference on photographic process and materials (I'm not sure if he is still alive and his books are probably a bit dated as far as the actual technical information is concerned, but not the general framework). Guy - Original Message - From: Murray mur...@uptowngallery.org To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 7:04 PM Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Photog book questions In response to some of my inquiries I was referred to Ansel Adams' - The Camera, The Print and The Negative titles. I found the first (albeit not the exact title) in a library and the next 2 and Existing Light Photography today in a used bookstore. It bothered me that they were priced higher (US $12 ea). than the original published price (US$9.95), but they were hardbound, and I didn't want to take a chance on either their unavailability or perhaps only being available as paperback fo rmore, so I took a chance got them. I hope I didn't get 'ripped'. There were two other books there I thought might be of interest to fellow list members, but chose not to get them myself because I have enough reading right now. From a(n) L.P. Clerc book series, the title of which I have forgotten since the commute home, was volume 4, something to do with processing (much discussion of chemistry), and volume 5, Positive Materials (may not be complete name) . Murray ___ Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML Pinhole-Discussion mailing list Pinhole-Discussion@p at ??? unsubscribe or change your account at http://www.???/discussion/
[pinhole-discussion] new but not a newbie , kinda but not really
what is a good light meter for pinhole f-stops ? i am lurking e-bay ,i what to buy a light meter that can be used practically for pinhole. i don't want to use the math. i just want a simple light meter so i can spend my energy taking pinhole images. i noticed that most light-meters stop about f-16. f-225 or higher is better for me.
