[pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #887 - 15 msgs
f all in the package was so > little bit of sponge tape that it never held the camera, I bought some > more, but still the tripod mount is unusable. If you don't mind me asking, how much did your camera cost? Going by past experience, I suspect it's not cheap. I've often found cyan tingeing a problem with Polaroid film. As for brass shim, I've used ordinary tin foil and had excellent results. Cheaper than brass and in keeping with the spirit of pinhole improv! Regards, Mark in the UK
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #887 - 15 msgs
> Gary, > > Why do you have to sand off the coating? It's probably > obvious to > everyone else, but I've never recycled soda-pop cans into > pinhole plates. I've always been blessed with plenty of > brass shim stock laying around. > Thanks in advance. > > Later, > Trent Trent, What a great question! Actually, I just ASSUMED that it would be necessary; my reasoning was that the thin (0.00025 in) plastic coating on each side increases the thickness of the material, _and_ it is translucent. Now you've got me curious. Must make pinhole with unadulterated drink can and see what happens! Gary
RE: [pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #887 - 15 msgs
--- Trent Dowler wrote: > Gary, > > Why do you have to sand off the coating? It's ..snip.. I have always drilled from the printed side of the pop can and then the burrs are on the interior silver side. Rolled sand paper takes them right off. I then color the silver side with a black permanent marker to avoid a chance of any reflection inside the camera. We use Pringles snack cans [ 3"X5"}or the larger chip cans[5"x7"] for our cameras at school. That way the natural curve of the piece of pop can fits tight. Have a great pinhole day! Chuck Flagg ___ Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML Pinhole-Discussion mailing list Pinhole-Discussion@p at ??? unsubscribe or change your account at http://www.???/discussion/
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #887 - 15 msgs
--- Trent Dowler wrote: > Gary, > > Why do you have to sand off the coating? It's ..snip.. well.. at least for me, I wind up having to sand both sides to smooth off the edges of the pinhole, as "drilling" with a needle usually leaves tiny ridges on the opposite side from the needle -- easily removed with a couple of passes of sandpaper, but it *does* mar that lovely pop logo... -- PW __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM). http://calendar.yahoo.com
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #887 - 15 msgs
Gary, Why do you have to sand off the coating? It's probably obvious to everyone else, but I've never recycled soda-pop cans into pinhole plates. I've always been blessed with plenty of brass shim stock laying around. Thanks in advance. Later, Trent Gary Nored wrote: > You'll want to > sand off the polymer coating before drilling
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #887 - 15 msgs
> Hey! What's wrong with bits of aluminum from pop > cans? Less likely to tear than foil, and you can leav > the natty printing from the can facing out so folks > know what you've been drinking (^: > Works fine for me. I've made many using this readily available resource. Thickness is .0004 in. You'll want to sand off the polymer coating before drilling; that ruins the label :-( Gary Nored
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #887 - 15 msgs
Ortho film is typically iso 6 in dektol - diluted 1 to 20. Fiddle with the dilutions - more dilute lower contrast range. If you flash the film before or after exposure you can push the asa up to 10 or 12 and get a longer tonal range. You need to determine the flash exposure - it should be just below the exposure that fogs the film Gord On Thu, 8 May 2003, Matti Koskinen wrote: > gives me another question: What's the speed in ISO of aph ortho film? > Diluted Neutol should be ok for continuous tone, but what is the > dilution and developing time approximately? > > thanks > > -matti > > > > > ___ > Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML > Pinhole-Discussion mailing list > Pinhole-Discussion@p at ??? > unsubscribe or change your account at > http://www.???/discussion/ > - Gordon J. Holtslander Dept. of Biology hol...@duke.usask.ca112 Science Place http://duke.usask.ca/~holtsgUniversity of Saskatchewan Tel (306) 966-4433 Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Fax (306) 966-4461 Canada S7N 5E2 -
RE: [pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #887 - 15 msgs
I understand the 689 is being replaced with 690 (?) . hmmm andy -Original Message- From: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ??? [mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]On Behalf Of ed...@attglobal.net Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2003 11:01 AM To: pinhole-discussion@p at ??? Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #887 - 15 msgs Stunned at how much it ended up costing outside the US. My wife bought mine for me as a gift for $75; basically it has ended up being a way of getting the film holder, a few ready-made pinholes, a pattern for more cardboard replicas for myself as it turned out (I had an ice-laden tree limb fall on my original one and crush it during a long exposure so I ended up building a new one) and for measuring distances and dimensions to build a hardwood version. The camera as it shipped produced an image sharper than almost any pinhole image I've ever seen - and as a pinhole dilettante, I'm more interested in the effects I get for the work I'm doing than I am in the process of building cameras. Try the 689 film to avoid acute cyan, it really does work well. I also have found that if you're doing Polaroid transfers from the pinhole camera exposures (Pol transfers require 669 film) the natural red/yellow-shift in the emulsion layer balances off against the cyan cast - it's almost helpful. MARK POWER wrote: > > If you don't mind me asking, how much did your camera cost? Going by > past experience, I suspect it's not cheap. I've often found cyan > tingeing a problem with Polaroid film. As for brass shim, I've used > ordinary tin foil and had excellent results. Cheaper than brass and > in keeping with the spirit of pinhole improv! Regards, > Mark in the UK > Total cost was astronomical :-) The camera was $99 in freestylephoto, only way they shipped international was by fedex +$72 and as it came outside EU +$35 taxes. I couldn't find anybody selling it in the EU. I'm thinking now of using just the film holder and for that purpose, as used polaroid 405 holder I saw here in Finland was 220 and as I ordered film and other things, the total shipping per item isn't too bad. That gives me another question: What's the speed in ISO of aph ortho film? Diluted Neutol should be ok for continuous tone, but what is the dilution and developing time approximately? thanks -matti ___ Post to the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML Pinhole-Discussion mailing list Pinhole-Discussion@p at ??? unsubscribe or change your account at http://www.???/discussion/
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #887 - 15 msgs
Philip willarney wrote: > > Hey! What's wrong with bits of aluminum from pop > cans? Less likely to tear than foil, and you can leav > the natty printing from the can facing out so folks > know what you've been drinking (^: > > -- PW If you or one of the neighbours has a cat, it's even more simple: Take the body (or the cover) of a Sheba can. The body is thicker and easier to drill, so thats my standard method, but the lid is easier to cut and everybody can see that you are a petlover taco
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #887 - 15 msgs
--- MARK POWER wrote: > As for brass > shim, I've used > ordinary tin foil and had excellent results. > Cheaper than brass and in > keeping with the spirit of pinhole improv! > Regards, Hey! What's wrong with bits of aluminum from pop cans? Less likely to tear than foil, and you can leav the natty printing from the can facing out so folks know what you've been drinking (^: -- PW __ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. http://search.yahoo.com
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #887 - 15 msgs
Stunned at how much it ended up costing outside the US. My wife bought mine for me as a gift for $75; basically it has ended up being a way of getting the film holder, a few ready-made pinholes, a pattern for more cardboard replicas for myself as it turned out (I had an ice-laden tree limb fall on my original one and crush it during a long exposure so I ended up building a new one) and for measuring distances and dimensions to build a hardwood version. The camera as it shipped produced an image sharper than almost any pinhole image I've ever seen - and as a pinhole dilettante, I'm more interested in the effects I get for the work I'm doing than I am in the process of building cameras. Try the 689 film to avoid acute cyan, it really does work well. I also have found that if you're doing Polaroid transfers from the pinhole camera exposures (Pol transfers require 669 film) the natural red/yellow-shift in the emulsion layer balances off against the cyan cast - it's almost helpful. MARK POWER wrote: > > If you don't mind me asking, how much did your camera cost? Going by > past experience, I suspect it's not cheap. I've often found cyan > tingeing a problem with Polaroid film. As for brass shim, I've used > ordinary tin foil and had excellent results. Cheaper than brass and > in keeping with the spirit of pinhole improv! Regards, > Mark in the UK > Total cost was astronomical :-) The camera was $99 in freestylephoto, only way they shipped international was by fedex +$72 and as it came outside EU +$35 taxes. I couldn't find anybody selling it in the EU. I'm thinking now of using just the film holder and for that purpose, as used polaroid 405 holder I saw here in Finland was 220 and as I ordered film and other things, the total shipping per item isn't too bad. That gives me another question: What's the speed in ISO of aph ortho film? Diluted Neutol should be ok for continuous tone, but what is the dilution and developing time approximately? thanks -matti
Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: Pinhole-Discussion digest, Vol 1 #887 - 15 msgs
MARK POWER wrote: If you don't mind me asking, how much did your camera cost? Going by past experience, I suspect it's not cheap. I've often found cyan tingeing a problem with Polaroid film. As for brass shim, I've used ordinary tin foil and had excellent results. Cheaper than brass and in keeping with the spirit of pinhole improv! Regards, Mark in the UK Total cost was astronomical :-) The camera was $99 in freestylephoto, only way they shipped international was by fedex +$72 and as it came outside EU +$35 taxes. I couldn't find anybody selling it in the EU. I'm thinking now of using just the film holder and for that purpose, as used polaroid 405 holder I saw here in Finland was 220€ and as I ordered film and other things, the total shipping per item isn't too bad. That gives me another question: What's the speed in ISO of aph ortho film? Diluted Neutol should be ok for continuous tone, but what is the dilution and developing time approximately? thanks -matti
