Re: 1400c RAM Stacking (was Re: ATA Hard Drives/PCMCIA slot)

[RaceCivicR]

I own a stackable 32meg card for the 1400 (plug on top and bottom). And it's 
stacked 32 on the bottom and 16 on top and works fine.

   Jake

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote...>

32 Meg modules are not stackable.  24s and smaller are.  Even though the Max 
RAM

in that slot is 48, it must be done with either 2-24s or a single 48 module. 
Why?

I have no idea, but probably is something in the RAM recognition side of the

ROM.  GURU shows many combinations of the 4, 8, 16 and 24 Meg modules, but 
shows

the 32 Meg and  48 Meg modules as being only allowed as single units.)


You can stack the RAM that allows stacking even if you have the 16 Meg Apple

setup. (8 on the MB and 8 in the Apple expansion slot.) I have a 1400 running

that way now while my other uses a single 48 Meg, the 8 on the MB and a 4 Meg 
in

the Apple slot. The only problem with the stacked RAM is when attempting to 
use a

3rd party video card. The Apple 8 bit card can be used in the stacked module

1400, but the 16 bit 3rd party card is larger and will not allow the top RAM

module to be installed. (The 16 bit card had to be put in the 1400 with the

single 48 Meg module.)


Both have G3 upgrades,([EMAIL PROTECTED] and [EMAIL PROTECTED]) which don't interfere 
with any other

upgrades. I'd love to upgrade the 4 Meg Apple RAM module to an 8, but they 
are a

terrible buy per Meg and not worth the investment for the tiny gain. RAM 
Doubler

has a better bang for the buck, allowing triple the RAM under OS 9.1, without

slowing them very much.


David Allen

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No Subject

[RaceCivicR]

Not to get all defensive, but I need to at least throw a little weight this 
way. First off, I've got a rather good grasp of electronics. Not only do I 
have an electrolysis machine I built from scratch in my back yard utilizing 
the power of a 12V battery to generate just over a pulsed 100,000V signal (I 
guess this would qualify more as a chemistry project, but a bit of electrical 
to it) but I've also saved and repaired over 60 Macintoshes (desktop and 
laptops) in my time ranging from numerous problems. I also convert cars from 
OBD1 to OBD2 (and obd0 to obd1 or 2) which in some cases means making my own 
harness and adapting sensors to work with the new system (sometimes adapting 
the signal to fit the new demands). 

Now, don't get me wrong. It's been a long time since I've been in electronics 
(do have a degree in it) so some of the stuff does slip my mind from time to 
time. And the 170 I wasted is in fact my fault. But only because my numbers 
were off and I figured the tolerances from the 170 were more than they were. 
I figured that this 170 would draw much more power than it actually did (hard 
drive running, backlight to max and charging a battery). What I mean by this 
is the pack I have is a 12V system now running at 10V. And when your able to 
pull more current than available, voltage falls (figured 8-8.5 would be more 
than safe for the 170). But In fact without paying attention it wasn't 
pulling as much current as I thought and because of this, voltage did not 
drop and it took the full 10V load (hope that makes sense). 

And as far as the tongue deal, I've already learned the consequences of that 
in my younger days because I tried a 9V zap (which is quite enjoyable) and 
strait 120v (actual here is 112 on an average) which wasn't so pleasant 
(couldn't taste anything for a day). The occasional 120V zap to the body 
isn't to bad and can be fun from time to time. But do watch those ignition 
coils, those deliver a punch, lol. And no, I don't run around zapping myself 
for fun. It just happens to me more often because I hate having to run and 
turn off circuit breakers just so I can test some leads. And even if I do get 
zapped, it's no biggy to me (if the first 100 or so times doesn't do 
anything, more isn't gonna be any worse). And with cars, it's somewhat 
unavoidable when testing the ignition system since it has to be running to 
test.

   Jake

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote...>

I don't want to clog this list with a lengthy tutorial on electricity, but I 
also

want to save you from trashing any more Powerbooks. It's my occupation to 
educate,

so here goes one last try (sorry, listers; I can't help it!).


You're confused about several fundamental concepts, but let's just look at 
one.

Yes, if you have two power supplies, each, say, 12V, but rated for different

maximum currents, the same load connected to each will in fact draw the same

current. That's what you probably meant by devices drawing what they will. 
That's

because the current drawn by an element is a function of the voltage you apply

across it (as in ohm's law, which applies to resistors), not of the label 
printed

on the side of the power supply indicating its maximum current capability. All

absolutely true, and all *absolutely irrelevant* to why you (probably) fried 
your

Powerbook. Unlike this example, you *didn't* apply the rated voltage. You in 
fact

applied a much *bigger* voltage.  That's a different situation altogether. And

then your Powerbook stopped working after a bit. No surprise there.


It's okay not to have a very good grasp of electrical fundamentals (nobody 
knows

everything, and electronics sure is more complicated than a lot of other

subjects), but it's less ok that you think you understand much more than you

actually do (to the point that you want to debate about it). Please think 
about

why it is that power supplies come in a variety of voltages. It has to do 
with the

fact that electrical devices in fact don't "know" what the "right" current is 
for

them. Do think about that the next time you risk blowing up a perfectly fine

Powerbook. :-( And please don't test out your theories by comparing the buzz 
you

get on your tongue with a 9V battery, versus what you get with 120V line 
power!


--

Prof. Thomas H. Lee

Center for Integrated Systems, CIS-205

420 Via Palou Mall

Stanford University

Stanford, CA 94305-4070

http://www-smirc.stanford.edu

650-725-3709 voice, -3383 fax

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Re: Powerbook 170 acting funny

[RaceCivicR]

You are correct that a battery can in fact be damaged by to much amperage. 
But this damage is only because it wasn't trickle charged (low amperage) but 
instead quick charged (high amperage). But then again that doesn't stop many 
manufactures from making such chargers. As far as the diode, you half 
correct. A diode can in fact be damaged by over amperage since it's a 
component that does run inline of a wire. But the truth of that is only if it 
flows that much. Now to flow that much current there must be something 
drawing that much on the other end and it's overloading it's ability. 

So, lets make an example, a simple circuit if you will. Imagine an AC power 
supply, say supplying a 12v 2amp signal. On both power leads a diode (cathode 
and anode pointing in opposite directions on either pole) and a LED in 
parallel to the supply (hope that makes sense), anyway, if the LED is rated 
at a minute 50ma, it's using that full 50ma supplied by the supply even 
though the supply is capable of flowing 2A. So what will the diodes see, 
exactly, 50ma across both. Ok, lets say the diode has a 1A threshold and 
instead of a LED you use a 2A lamp, then the diodes will see a 2A load which 
after time will burn them out. So anyway, I've still made my point. Amperage 
pull will only be what is used, not what the battery or supply can produce. 
And as long as you design your circuit correctly (with the correct parts for 
the demands), you won't have to deal with blown diodes for example.

   Jake

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote...>

There are many unfortunate statements above ("simple electronics 
specifies..." is so wrong that it isn't even wrong!). Short story: There are 
many, many components in electronics which behave nonlinearly. Even a 
battery, if

charged with seemingly small overvoltages, can exhibit catastrophic 
behaviors. A diode is a device where, if you apply a mere extra 60mV (that's 
0.06 volts) or so directly across it, the current can go up by a factor of 10!

It does not "know" what current it "needs", and will happily, destructively 
demonstrate that truth for you.


Another way to look at it: You applied nearly a 50% overvoltage. If it were a 
resistive load, the current would have gone up by ~1.5x, too, for a power 
increase to ~2x the nominal value -- that's a lot, even for a resistor.

But you weren't feeding a resistor -- it's a much more complicated thing!


--

Prof. Thomas H. Lee

Center for Integrated Systems, CIS-205

420 Via Palou Mall

Stanford University

Stanford, CA 94305-4070

http://www-smirc.stanford.edu

650-725-3709 ph, -3383 fax

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Re: Powerbook 170 acting funny

[RaceCivicR]

Thanks for the reply. The rated input voltage I was supplying was a bit 
higher than what it was designed for (states on the Powerbook 7.5V 2A max) 
and I was giving it just under 10v (using a battery pack that supplied a 3A 
max supply). Normally semiconductors are a bit more tolerant to a bit more 
voltage but you might be correct. As far as the amperage deal. Simple 
electronics specifies that a unit will only consume as much current as it 
needs. So supplying 10A of power would net the same results as supplying 2A. 
There are a few exceptions to the rule, such as a AMM meter which is set 
inline of a lead. But for the most part components won't be damaged by 
excessive current.

Anyway, I'll tear it down again and go component by component testing to see 
if any are bad. Maybe the extra voltage did fry the computer. If it did, 
anyone interested in parts? I'm moving in the 2 weeks and need to clear out 
some of the stuff here, so if I can't save it, it might be best to get parts 
into the hands of people who can use them. I'm still gonna see if I can get 
it working again but if I can't anyone wanting parts write me. Just cover 
shipping and a little for gas to get me to the post office (ya, I own a 
Honda, but it's more a racecar than a gas friendly compact now). 

As far as the details, it's a 170 with a 140 screen, 4megs ram, 40meg HD and 
even the modem option. Again, everything worked until I turned it off. I just 
tested the battery and after a long night of charging, seems to be holding a 
7v charge after sitting all day. Hope I don't get torn a new one for not 
listing this on the LemSwap, but this is just in case I can't get it working 
again and only seems fair to hook you guys up on it first!

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote...>

You should start with resetting the PMU...


http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=58416&SaveKCWindowURL=http%3A%2

F%2Fkbase.info.apple.com%2Fcgi-bin%2FWebObjects%2Fkbase.woa%2Fwa%2FSaveKCToHom

ePage&searchMode=Assisted&kbhost=kbase.info.apple.com&showButton=false&randomV

alue=100&showSurvey=false&sessionID=anonymous|164758369


if it doesn't work then, i'd have to say that it may

have been too much voltage (the battery to the 1xx

except 190 was 6.75v) and requires a mere 15w of

power,


Warning: Using an AC adapter that produces more than

19 W with a PowerBook 100 or 150 computer will damage

the computer's logic board.


that is from apple's site, it may only apply to the

150 and 100, but if the battery(i imagine it would)

had such a grossly excess amount of power it may also

to damage your 170.


Guess what, I don't even have my PowerBook yet and I

know this stuff, lol, i'm so excited. Can't wait to

get it.

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Powerbook 170 acting funny

[RaceCivicR]

My oldest Powerbook, a 170 which I saved from scrap a bit back was a little 
toy I played with when I got bored back in the day. Pretty much everything 
didn't work. But after much time and effort the only things I could never get 
working was the battery, trackball and the space bar. So after that it sat in 
my room collecting dust until today when I pulled it out. 

Anyway, I never had a power supply for the thing so I fabricated one from a 
step down transformer which I normally used to give the battery a little 
juice which allowed me about 5-10 minutes of fiddling time. But this time I 
tried using a 12v car battery to power it and it worked. The OS was all 
screwed up so I did a fresh install of 7.5.5 and gave it a go to actually use 
it again. Ok, now here's the odd thing. Everything was working great until I 
shut it down. After I did, I could never get it started again. No bong (or 
death tone), no hard drive activity and the screen got these weird bright red 
lines across it (even though it's a 1-bit 140 monitor). It also won't even 
react unless I plug power to the back and put the battery in. Any idea's 
guys? It would really be a shame to scrap it after all this time and work, 
thanks.

   Jake

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Re: Mac Powerbook 520c CPU Upgrade info need

[RaceCivicR]

Now, why can't anyone do something like that to a 1400? Figure 16meg built 
in, 32meg on the bottom and a 48 stacked on top. That's 96megs without anyone 
making new ram. I hear it's the ROM that gives it this max, if so, why do 
1400 upgrades still have this same restriction?

   Jake

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote>

Hm, Googling around for more info on PowerBook 500 upgrades, I came across

this page:





Apparently, these guys have managed to cram up to 64 MB into a Blackbird.

Now I definitely have to dust off my old 'Book!


,xtG

.tsooJ

-- 

Nomen dominii habeo, ergo sum.

-- 

Joost van de Griek



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Re: Problematic 1400+ethernet?

[RaceCivicR]

Thanks for all the reply on my problem. I ended up calling my provider and 
asking them what the problem was and after a good 30 minutes of 
troubleshooting it worked. Come to find out it was the cable modem that was 
the problem (go figure). For some reason the modem can only read one computer 
at a time and any time you add hardware to it or hook up another computer, it 
must be unplugged for a minute (to erase it's internal memory) and then 
hooked up to the computer when it's off. The reason all the info was showing 
up in my TCP/IP when hooked up was because it was using the settings used by 
my desktop (that's what the guy said). But now it runs, but the weird thing 
is it's the most reliable without any ethernet or driver extensions (it even 
helped to remove the PC card extension). But anyway guys, thanks very much 
for the info!

   Jake

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote...>

I have the same card (actually a CCPlus) in a 1400cs (no G3) running OS 

9.1.

I have only the Apple Built-In Ethernet and Dayna C&SS Init installed.


I set TCP/IP to Alternate Ethernet and Configuration to DHCP Server.


This using Verizon DSL through a Linksys Router/switch.


Works well.


Ken



Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without.

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Re: Mac OS

[RaceCivicR]

I've gotten it to work fine (tested on a 520c and Quadra 800). Don't get me 
wrong, it's not easy but I'll do my best to describe how I did it. First I 
downloaded the whole 19 files and then decompressed the whole deal (gives you 
a folder which is your installer). Anyway, I then used it to instal the basic 
OS (custom instal) onto a blank hard drive which now gave me my system 
folder. Now the hard part. I then used disk copy to make me a blank image 
file (use standard hfs) and threw the installer and the system folder onto it 
so now when you open the .img file you have your installer and the system 
folder on it. I then used Toast Ti 5, selected other (hold down on the mouse) 
and then selected Mac Volume and this gives you the option to select the 
mounted image. Select it, click bootable (gotten weird results selecting 
optimize on the fly, might want to unclick it) and presto a bootable 7.5.3 
installer. 

You may also want to add the 7.5.5 updater to the disk as well. Just be sure 
to put the updater into it's own folder, make an alias and put that next to 
the 7.5.3 installer icon.

   Jake

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote...>

I tried to burn bootables cds for older macs and it doesnt work - the 

old mac freezes -

they are all like discimages that is started from the first one, 

there is no install system present in theese diskimages - just an 

installer,

you could as I finally did take the system files from a 8.1 cd and 

then burn the diskimages together with that, start from the 8.1 

system on the cd and install the 7.5.3 wherever you want it.

kenta

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Problematic 1400+ethernet?

[RaceCivicR]

Hey guys, for the last 3 days I have been trying to get my ethernet to work 
again on my PowerBook 1400c and for the life of me I can't. The card as far 
as I know is good (worked the last time I used it) but ever since I wiped the 
hard drive and installed OS9 it never worked again. I even went back to 
OS8.5.1 (for some reason OS8.6 doesn't work with my Sonnet card) and I still 
couldn't get it to work. I have all the card software and it shows up 
correctly on my desktop. The "link" light lights up on the dongle so its 
connected and the light on the modem lights up. And even more, when I go to 
the TCP/IP control panel, my IP address, subnet mask and router address all 
show up correctly. Also, when I go to get info in the TCP/IP control panel 
all those addresses show up.

So as far as I can tell everything is working fine. But any time I use any 
program that pulls off the Internet (quicktime, Norton's and mactracker for 
example), I get an error and my cable modem flashes differently. I've messed 
with extensions for a good 3 days now and it just won't work. I get the same 
results using any of the 4 ethernet extensions (tried them in just about 
every combination) as well as enabling and disabling the ethernet card driver 
(if it even does anything). Here are a few details of the stuff I have.

Extensions: (running OS9.1 now)
Apple Built-in Ethernet
Apple Enet
Ethernet (Built In)
EtherTalk Phase 2
Dayna C&SS INIT (driver)

Card:
Dayna CommuniCard Ethernet Adapter (PCMCIA)

Connection:
Astound Broadband (1.5meg cable line)

Any help would be great. I'm hoping that maybe, just maybe I'm missing some 
small little thing and this all can get working again. Would really like to 
ditch the whole dial up deal for good on the laptop, thanks.

   Jake

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Re: for PB what screwdriver?

[RaceCivicR]

Maybe you have an odd PowerBook 500 series but I just tore mine down to it's 
guts to replace a few parts and it used a Torx-8. Just wanted to clarify that 
so people didn't get confused.

   Jake

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote...>

It's called a TOREX  the 500 series requires a T-5


Bob

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Re: for PB what screwdriver?

[RaceCivicR]

Well, I don't know what model your talking about, but I have a PowerBook 170, 
Duo 230 and a 520c and all of them use what's called a "torx 8" (my PowerBook 
1400c uses a precision Philips screwdriver, go figure). They can be at times 
hard to find but they can be found at most hardware stores if in stock. Just 
be sure to get one with at least 2 inches of neck to get in all the deep 
holes.

   Jake

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote...>

Hello



Um this might sound a little silly, but what screwdriver is required to open

up a Powerbook? Apple seems to use these star like screws.


regards,

R.

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Re: PowerBook 500 card cage help?

[RaceCivicR]

A member of the list sent me older software which helped quite a bit. The 
Global Village card now works, the ethernet card says its unrecognizable and 
the smartmedia adapter says its defective (all tested in my 1400 and work). 
The only thing odd is they still do not show up on the desktop, everything is 
mentioned in the PCMCIA control strip. Is this normal or is something still 
not working correct? Any idea's or suggestions?

   Jake

PeterH5322 wrote..>

If your machine has 8.1, the card cage should be working fine. Each card 
should "mount" on the desktop as it is inserted. You can also "dismount" each 
by dragging these to the trash.

Earlier MacOSes would work with the installation of the PC Card Software you 
mentioned, perhaps extracted from the install disk using Tome Viewer.

Based upon the universal rejection (i.e., non-recognition) of all the PC 
cards you mentioned, the two possibilities are: 1) the PC Card Software is 
incorrectly installed, and/or 2) the card cage is defective.

The Rev. B card cage is really a Rev. A with a number of trace cuts and 
discrete wire adds, plus a few additional discrete components. IOW, a 
desperate attempt to save a fatally-flawed design.

The Rev. C is a complete redesign, including a completely new LSI chip and a 
quite different component layout.

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Re: pc card smartcard readers

[RaceCivicR]

I use a "Ridata Smart Media Adapter" and it works perfect with my PowerBook 
1400 (its a PCMCIA card). It doesn't need any software and it shows up as an 
ATA drive on the desktop when a smartmedia card is inserted (and transfers 
fast). I use a Fuji Finepix 1400 digital camera and a 64meg smartmedia card. 
I don't know if it will work for sure on a 5300 or 3400, but it does work 
great on the 1400 (the 520c on the other hand is still an unknown).

   Jake

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote...>

Does anyone on this list use a pc card smartcard
reader with a 5300 or 3400?

I have a Fujifilm floppy card adapter, but it even
says in the documentation not to use it on a
PowerBook.  The first floppy adapter we bought was a
Sony device, and it failed to work at all on any
machine we own. (The Fujifilm gizmo works fine on my
6500 ppc) 

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PowerBook 500 card cage help?

[RaceCivicR]

Hi guys, I picked up a Rev B card cage off of someone from the lem swap list 
and for the life of me I can't get it to work with any of my PC cards. The 
basics of the machine are that it's stock other than it has 20megs of ram, 
350meg HD and running OS8.1. I tried getting the card cage to work without 
any software, but all that happened when anything was inserted was the finder 
quitting (had to manual eject the PC cards). I then threw in my OS8 install 
disk and installed the PC extension software and this changed the results I 
got. Instead of the finder quitting, now nothing happened (that was until I 
selected shutdown, then it would lock up). So I looked threw Apple's pile of 
software and the only thing I could find that was close was "PC Card Software 
2.0" which after installing gave me no change in results from the PC 
extenuation software.

I tried starting up on no extensions and this didn't help any. This is the 
info on the card.

Model No: M2864 V1/b

And these are the PC cards I'm trying to use in it

Dayna CommuniCard Ethernet Adapter
Global Village 56k V.90 PC card (A956)
Ridata Smart Media Adapter (with 64meg smartmedia card inserted)

Any help would be great. I wrote back the previous owner for help to see if 
maybe I'm missing something, I searched the web to only find info on the Rev 
C card cage and I've tried everything on my end that I could think of. 
Anyway, sorry to bother you guys with this but at the moment I'm facing a 
brick wall.

   Jake

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