[Quantum Owners] Re: CVH swap wiring

2010-08-23 Thread jin
cheers Jim

ive checked that wire (not green though on account of the wiring being
a bit of a mess) and it does indeed go to the pos on the coil, so
that's one wire sorted for the CVH 3 pin wiring, ill just wire in the
neg and earth separate and bypass the resistor

while on the subject of electrics ive one more query



when I was stripping the engine bay down to prepare for engine removal
I came across 2 relays and a sort of scary looking plastic bit with
diodes or something lurking out from one of them

unfortunately I cant find a reference in the Haynes manual for a
badly bodged pair of relays with spade connectors instead of a proper
relay mount section,
they were just loose dangling rather close to the alternator drive
belt (nice) so my next questions are

what are they?
do I need them now ive swapped to CVH?

first picture is the 2 relays together and they were bundled together
with a bit of tape, weather that meant they work together or not im
not too sure

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00167.jpg

the next pictures are of the scary wiry bit attached to one of the
relays

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00168.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00169.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00170-1.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00171.jpg

other than the horn I have no other relays under the bonnet and if I
need them id like to tidy them up, replacing them with new ones fitted
to proper relay holders wont be too much of an issue (as I did with
the horn) but im puzzled by the wires and diodes / resistors or
whatever they are ?

thank you all very much in advance

the help is priceless and very much appreciated

regards
j king




On 22 Aug, 17:59, Jim Hearne j...@quantums.info wrote:
   Disconnect it and join the 2 wires.
 The wire going to the old distibutor should have been a green one which
 goes to the -ve on the coil.
 The new distributor will be electronic and will need a feed from the
 positive on the coil, black (the same wire you removed the resistance
 wire from) and an earth, brown, as well as the original green.

 Jim

 On 22/08/2010 11:19, jin wrote:



  cheers jim,
  regarding the resistor wire which is as you describe, with bullet
  connectors, do i just disconnect it and leave it? or disconnect it and
  reconnect the 2 wires where it joined?

  looking closer at the starters it looks like the terminals are numbers
  so ill whip the new one off and trace the numbers to the old.

  cheers for your help.

  by the way, having done this swap yourself before, do you have any
  guidance as to what to do regarding the distributor?, i only had one
  wire going to the old points distributor and have no idea what it does
  as it fell off and the battery is out the car, will this be needed as
  part of the 3 pin conection on the new distributor?

  chers again, youve been a great help with this project,

  On 21 Aug, 20:47, Jim Hearnej...@quantums.info  wrote:
     The spade terminal on the old one is the one from the starter contact
  on the ignition switch, this is the one you need to connect to the small
  terminal on the new starter.

  The other small terminal on your loom goes to one side of a resistance
  wire between the ignition switch (the main ignition circuit not the
  starter circuit) and the ignition coil.
  On the OHV engine the ignition coil is run via a resistance wire
  normally and this is shorted out by the contact in the starter motor
  when the starter is turning to boost power to the coil.
  You can't use this setup on your new starter so you need to change the
  coil to a CVH one (the OHV will overheat) and remove the resistance wire.
  The resistance wire is normally pluged into the main loom via a couple
  of bullet type connectors near the coil.

  Jim

  On 21/08/2010 19:31, jin wrote:

  Hi all.
  so ive got the xr2 engine in and bolted up, ive started to unravel the
  wiring I pulled out the way to clean and repaint the chassis and have
  started to try to put it in the right places.
  thinking the original OHV starter was probably a bad idea I went down
  the scrappy today and plucked one from a k reg mk3 with a CVH in it.
  its bolted up ok and looking at the sizes of things the OHV starter is
  too long to fit as it would foul my new super sexy 4 branch manifold.
  not paying much attention I bolted it on without looking at the
  connections and now im puzzled by the terminals, both have 3 terminals
  but the OHV has a spade and the CVH doesn't, to demonstrate here's a
  pic
  OHV
  [img]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00162.jpg[/img]
  CVH (bolted to car)
  [img]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00161.jpg[/img]
  [img]http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00159.jpg[/img]
  anyone got any ideas which wires go where, I know the bigger of the 3
  go to the main threaded lug but on my wiring on the car I also have 1
  spade and 

Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: CVH swap wiring

2010-08-23 Thread Jim Hearne
 The green wire from the distributor should got to the -ve (you 
mentioned +ve) terminal on the coil, if the car has a rev counter 
another green will leave the coil, possibly go through a suppressor and 
go to the rev counter.
The black wire on the distributor should go to the +ve on the coil and 
then via the removed resistive lead to an ignition switched feed in the 
main loom.
The brown on the distributor is connected to ground, preferably the 
battery earth not the engine.


The relay with the 2 diode attached is almost certainly the one for the 
headlight flap motor.
The diodes take signals from the main beam and dipped beam or sidelights 
(depends how it was wired) and operate the relay for the flap motor if 
either are on.
The diodes are needed so that the relay is active if either of the 2 
circuits are active.
The flap relay is a changeover so it always supplys power to one of 2 
terminals on the flap motor.


The other relay may be for front fog or spot lights if you have them.


Jim

On 22/08/2010 21:55, jin wrote:

cheers Jim

ive checked that wire (not green though on account of the wiring being
a bit of a mess) and it does indeed go to the pos on the coil, so
that's one wire sorted for the CVH 3 pin wiring, ill just wire in the
neg and earth separate and bypass the resistor

while on the subject of electrics ive one more query



when I was stripping the engine bay down to prepare for engine removal
I came across 2 relays and a sort of scary looking plastic bit with
diodes or something lurking out from one of them

unfortunately I cant find a reference in the Haynes manual for a
badly bodged pair of relays with spade connectors instead of a proper
relay mount section,
they were just loose dangling rather close to the alternator drive
belt (nice) so my next questions are

what are they?
do I need them now ive swapped to CVH?

first picture is the 2 relays together and they were bundled together
with a bit of tape, weather that meant they work together or not im
not too sure

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00167.jpg

the next pictures are of the scary wiry bit attached to one of the
relays

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00168.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00169.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00170-1.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00171.jpg

other than the horn I have no other relays under the bonnet and if I
need them id like to tidy them up, replacing them with new ones fitted
to proper relay holders wont be too much of an issue (as I did with
the horn) but im puzzled by the wires and diodes / resistors or
whatever they are ?

thank you all very much in advance

the help is priceless and very much appreciated

regards
j king




On 22 Aug, 17:59, Jim Hearnej...@quantums.info  wrote:

   Disconnect it and join the 2 wires.
The wire going to the old distibutor should have been a green one which
goes to the -ve on the coil.
The new distributor will be electronic and will need a feed from the
positive on the coil, black (the same wire you removed the resistance
wire from) and an earth, brown, as well as the original green.

Jim

On 22/08/2010 11:19, jin wrote:




cheers jim,
regarding the resistor wire which is as you describe, with bullet
connectors, do i just disconnect it and leave it? or disconnect it and
reconnect the 2 wires where it joined?
looking closer at the starters it looks like the terminals are numbers
so ill whip the new one off and trace the numbers to the old.
cheers for your help.
by the way, having done this swap yourself before, do you have any
guidance as to what to do regarding the distributor?, i only had one
wire going to the old points distributor and have no idea what it does
as it fell off and the battery is out the car, will this be needed as
part of the 3 pin conection on the new distributor?
chers again, youve been a great help with this project,
On 21 Aug, 20:47, Jim Hearnej...@quantums.infowrote:

The spade terminal on the old one is the one from the starter contact
on the ignition switch, this is the one you need to connect to the small
terminal on the new starter.
The other small terminal on your loom goes to one side of a resistance
wire between the ignition switch (the main ignition circuit not the
starter circuit) and the ignition coil.
On the OHV engine the ignition coil is run via a resistance wire
normally and this is shorted out by the contact in the starter motor
when the starter is turning to boost power to the coil.
You can't use this setup on your new starter so you need to change the
coil to a CVH one (the OHV will overheat) and remove the resistance wire.
The resistance wire is normally pluged into the main loom via a couple
of bullet type connectors near the coil.
Jim
On 21/08/2010 19:31, jin wrote:

Hi all.
so ive got the xr2 engine in and bolted up, ive started to unravel the
wiring I pulled out the way to clean and repaint the 

[Quantum Owners] Re: CVH swap wiring

2010-08-23 Thread jin
thanks very much Jim, your right, I got my polarity mixed up a bit
there, thank you for your help with that

also thank you regarding the identification of the relay and the
diodes, I took another look at it this morning and it did dawn on me
that it was probably for the headlight flaps,

as it looks a bit untidy im hoping to replace the components involved
for new and make a better job of it, im assuming somewhere in the
build manual that it explains how to make up the diode wiring with
specs etc?
if so does anyone have a copy I could look at to see what is what?

also regarding the other relay, its wires go off up into the loom
within the bulkhead and im fairly sure it controls something to do
with the starting, is it known for a starter / ignition relay to be
added within the engine bay?
ultimately ill buy a new relay and wire it in with a proper holder but
I just like to know what it does, for peace of mind if nothing else

as ever your help is very gratefully received

regards

J king

On 23 Aug, 09:32, Jim Hearne j...@quantums.info wrote:
   The green wire from the distributor should got to the -ve (you
 mentioned +ve) terminal on the coil, if the car has a rev counter
 another green will leave the coil, possibly go through a suppressor and
 go to the rev counter.
 The black wire on the distributor should go to the +ve on the coil and
 then via the removed resistive lead to an ignition switched feed in the
 main loom.
 The brown on the distributor is connected to ground, preferably the
 battery earth not the engine.

 The relay with the 2 diode attached is almost certainly the one for the
 headlight flap motor.
 The diodes take signals from the main beam and dipped beam or sidelights
 (depends how it was wired) and operate the relay for the flap motor if
 either are on.
 The diodes are needed so that the relay is active if either of the 2
 circuits are active.
 The flap relay is a changeover so it always supplys power to one of 2
 terminals on the flap motor.

 The other relay may be for front fog or spot lights if you have them.

 Jim

 On 22/08/2010 21:55, jin wrote:



  cheers Jim

  ive checked that wire (not green though on account of the wiring being
  a bit of a mess) and it does indeed go to the pos on the coil, so
  that's one wire sorted for the CVH 3 pin wiring, ill just wire in the
  neg and earth separate and bypass the resistor

  while on the subject of electrics ive one more query

  when I was stripping the engine bay down to prepare for engine removal
  I came across 2 relays and a sort of scary looking plastic bit with
  diodes or something lurking out from one of them

  unfortunately I cant find a reference in the Haynes manual for a
  badly bodged pair of relays with spade connectors instead of a proper
  relay mount section,
  they were just loose dangling rather close to the alternator drive
  belt (nice) so my next questions are

  what are they?
  do I need them now ive swapped to CVH?

  first picture is the 2 relays together and they were bundled together
  with a bit of tape, weather that meant they work together or not im
  not too sure

 http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00167.jpg

  the next pictures are of the scary wiry bit attached to one of the
  relays

 http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00168.jpg
 http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00169.jpg
 http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00170-1.jpg
 http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC00171.jpg

  other than the horn I have no other relays under the bonnet and if I
  need them id like to tidy them up, replacing them with new ones fitted
  to proper relay holders wont be too much of an issue (as I did with
  the horn) but im puzzled by the wires and diodes / resistors or
  whatever they are ?

  thank you all very much in advance

  the help is priceless and very much appreciated

  regards
  j king

  On 22 Aug, 17:59, Jim Hearnej...@quantums.info  wrote:
     Disconnect it and join the 2 wires.
  The wire going to the old distibutor should have been a green one which
  goes to the -ve on the coil.
  The new distributor will be electronic and will need a feed from the
  positive on the coil, black (the same wire you removed the resistance
  wire from) and an earth, brown, as well as the original green.

  Jim

  On 22/08/2010 11:19, jin wrote:

  cheers jim,
  regarding the resistor wire which is as you describe, with bullet
  connectors, do i just disconnect it and leave it? or disconnect it and
  reconnect the 2 wires where it joined?
  looking closer at the starters it looks like the terminals are numbers
  so ill whip the new one off and trace the numbers to the old.
  cheers for your help.
  by the way, having done this swap yourself before, do you have any
  guidance as to what to do regarding the distributor?, i only had one
  wire going to the old points distributor and have no idea what it does
  as it fell off and the battery is out the 

[Quantum Owners] Re: QM68

2010-08-23 Thread barnacle
Hmm. I'm having trouble logging in on the site - I visit it very
rarely but it seems none of my 'standard' logins are on there...

Neil

On 19 Aug, 15:11, Hamish Freeman ham...@blimps.fsnet.co.uk wrote:
 Just downloaded the latest QM - very impressive, full of good technical stuff 
 and plenty to read.

 Jan - did you get my replies to your request?  I did check your email address 
 to ensure that it had not changed after having missed certain other people's 
 change of address earlier this year!

 Hamish

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
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preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).


[Quantum Owners] Re: Members log in

2010-08-23 Thread barnacle
Ah, not just me then! I can't get in either.

Neil

On 20 Aug, 19:47, Robert Craig bobbycrai...@tiscali.co.uk wrote:
 No problem Russell - enjoy your holiday

 Cheers
 Bob

 - Original Message -
 From: russ...@quantum54.freeserve.co.uk
 To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 7:24 PM
 Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Members log in

 Robert,
 I am in Tenerife at the moment but hopefully Steve will pick up the request
 and sort it out. If not I am back
 on the 27th

 Russell

  Message Received: Aug 20 2010, 06:36 PM
  From: Robert Craig
  To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
  Cc:
  Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] Members log in

  Mee too - I've sent an email to the address on the site asking for my
  details (the previous log in and password from QM67 don't work any more).

  Bob Craig
  - Original Message -
  From: Mark

  To: Quantum Owners Group
  Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 11:14 AM
  Subject: [Quantum Owners] Members log in

  Does anyone know what the procedure is for login in to the members
  section of the website? Both my dad  I have been memebers a while 
  have not noticablely recieved anything on how to access.

  Please help, would like to make more use of the website.

  Thanks
  Mark Perry

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  Is
  basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum
  Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or
  in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to
  any
  person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or
  alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained
  within this or related message(s).

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 implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals
 associated with the Quantum Owners Club or
 in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any
 person or entity with respect to
 liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or
 indirectly by the instructions contained
 within this or related message(s).

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 IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is
 basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum
 Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or
 in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any
 person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or
 alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained
 within this or related message(s).

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
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preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
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[Quantum Owners] Re: steering column big squeak and alternator adjustment

2010-08-23 Thread cormorant
Yes thanks that is what I ended up doing, I am not sure if these
polybelts need more tension than the old fashioned plain v belts
(sorry I am used to classic cars) as 1/2 inch slack  in the middle of
the belt would seem very excessive on this type of belt, what is the
slack I am aiming for?

On 22 Aug, 22:03, John Woodward john.woodw...@tesco.net wrote:
 Can't help with the steering column, but adjusting the alternator belt
 is fairly simple on the 1800 diesel engine, instead of the crowfoot
 adapter I just use a large open ended spanner (20,21,22 mm I can't
 remember which, slacken off the 13 mm lock bolt, then you can use the
 large spanner to adjust the tension (the same as a normal ribbed belt
 tension), then lock it in position with the 13mm lock bolt. I've done
 over 20,000 miles  had no problem with the belt slipping or wearing
 out. In fact its a lot easier to adjust than the normal arrangement on
 the CVH engine.
 John

 On Aug 21, 1:31 pm, cormorant jsaxby...@googlemail.com wrote:

  My steering column is giving a horrendously loud  rubbery squeaking
  noise when the steering wheel is turned, have squirted wd40 down there
  and waited but the noise persists, seems to come from the upper
  bearing, is this a common problem?

  Also the manual suggest a really complicated method for adjusting the
  alternator belt tension (rack type and polybelt - 1800 diesel)
  involving 2 torque wrenches and a crowfoot adapter, is there a simple
  way to set the tension?

  many thanks

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
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Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).


[Quantum Owners] Re: steering column big squeak and alternator adjustment

2010-08-23 Thread cormorant
Thanks will try thet then! WD40 seemed to get me nowhere

On 22 Aug, 22:22, Gary gary_brokensh...@blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
 My old fiesta squeeked on the rubber in the bulkhead fairy liquid sorted
 that one.

 Gary

 cormorant wrote:
  My steering column is giving a horrendously loud  rubbery squeaking
  noise when the steering wheel is turned, have squirted wd40 down there
  and waited but the noise persists, seems to come from the upper
  bearing, is this a common problem?

  Also the manual suggest a really complicated method for adjusting the
  alternator belt tension (rack type and polybelt - 1800 diesel)
  involving 2 torque wrenches and a crowfoot adapter, is there a simple
  way to set the tension?

  many thanks

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners 
Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the 
preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or 
entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be 
caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).


Re: [Quantum Owners] Re: QM68

2010-08-23 Thread Robert Craig

Neil,
   I'm having the same problem and emailed Russell - he is on holiday 
just now but will help when he returns. I'd suggest emailing your membership 
number to him on the address on the website.


cheers
Bob Craig
- Original Message - 
From: barnacle nailed.barna...@gmail.com

To: Quantum Owners Group quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 7:31 PM
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: QM68


Hmm. I'm having trouble logging in on the site - I visit it very
rarely but it seems none of my 'standard' logins are on there...

Neil

On 19 Aug, 15:11, Hamish Freeman ham...@blimps.fsnet.co.uk wrote:
Just downloaded the latest QM - very impressive, full of good technical 
stuff and plenty to read.


Jan - did you get my replies to your request? I did check your email 
address to ensure that it had not changed after having missed certain 
other people's change of address earlier this year!


Hamish


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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum 
Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or 
in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any 
person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or 
alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained 
within this or related message(s). 


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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
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the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the preparation of the 
above information shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to 
liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the 
instructions contained within this or related message(s).


[Quantum Owners] Re: QM68

2010-08-23 Thread Paschalc
Didn't Steve send us all an Email around Stoneleigh time advising us
of our login username and password? I certainly got mine and it worked
a treat.

Paschal

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IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an As Is 
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caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or 
related message(s).


[Quantum Owners] Re: steering column big squeak and alternator adjustment

2010-08-23 Thread John Woodward
I basically get the tension tight so there is no slack, but not over
tight to cause alternator bearing failure, seems to have worked OK for
me.
John

On Aug 23, 7:15 pm, cormorant jsaxby...@googlemail.com wrote:
 Yes thanks that is what I ended up doing, I am not sure if these
 polybelts need more tension than the old fashioned plain v belts
 (sorry I am used to classic cars) as 1/2 inch slack  in the middle of
 the belt would seem very excessive on this type of belt, what is the
 slack I am aiming for?

 On 22 Aug, 22:03, John Woodward john.woodw...@tesco.net wrote:

  Can't help with the steering column, but adjusting the alternator belt
  is fairly simple on the 1800 diesel engine, instead of the crowfoot
  adapter I just use a large open ended spanner (20,21,22 mm I can't
  remember which, slacken off the 13 mm lock bolt, then you can use the
  large spanner to adjust the tension (the same as a normal ribbed belt
  tension), then lock it in position with the 13mm lock bolt. I've done
  over 20,000 miles  had no problem with the belt slipping or wearing
  out. In fact its a lot easier to adjust than the normal arrangement on
  the CVH engine.
  John

  On Aug 21, 1:31 pm, cormorant jsaxby...@googlemail.com wrote:

   My steering column is giving a horrendously loud  rubbery squeaking
   noise when the steering wheel is turned, have squirted wd40 down there
   and waited but the noise persists, seems to come from the upper
   bearing, is this a common problem?

   Also the manual suggest a really complicated method for adjusting the
   alternator belt tension (rack type and polybelt - 1800 diesel)
   involving 2 torque wrenches and a crowfoot adapter, is there a simple
   way to set the tension?

   many thanks

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