[RBW] Re: Crank/BB/spindle tips (changing triple to double)

2009-06-14 Thread Darren Stone

Michael, this is great.  Thank you for clarifying!  Must digest and
contemplate now...  :)

-Darren.

On Jun 13, 5:28 pm, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
 Darren,

 No. I am decidedly not talking about a shifting pattern where you have
 to keep double shifting the front and rear derailers.  I am talking
 about simplifying the shifting pattern when you do have to shift the
 front derailler.  At the risk  of overstating what you already know...

 There are 4 variable that must be considered when selecting gearing.
 First, how wide a range do you want, second how much distance between
 gears are you willing to tolerate, third, how much shifting do you
 have to do to get from one gear to the next, and fourth, finally, what
 are your individual preferences amongst the first three.  I can't
 speak at all to the last for you but can only encourage you to
 consider all 4 in making decisions.

 I have a strong preference to have a fairly consistent difference of
 about 10 % between gears and this eliminates the wide range cassetes
 like the 8 spd 12x 32 you use.  I use a 9 spd. 12x27.  I also have a
 strong preference to have a simple shifting pattern.  Together, this
 means i am forced to make some comprimises about how wide a range I
 can use.   When shifting between rings a difference of ten teeth will
 generally put the next gear one rear shift away.  This works well with
 doubles but is too limiting for triples.  So for triples I typically
 use 46x36x26.  Doubles get more complicated.  I find that a difference
 of 12 or 16 leaves me searching for the next gear, while a difference
 of 14 puts me two cogs away from the next gear.

 Here's my favorite set up for a double:

         12      13      14      15      17      19      21      24      27
 48      108     100     93      86      76      68      62      54      X
 34       X      71      66      61      54      48      44      38      34

 This gives a pretty big high gear, a manageable low gear for most
 situations and an easy shifting pattern.  I can slide up or down the
 cog set with about 10 % between gears and when I need to shift rings,
 I can know that I am 2 cogs from the next gear, e.g from 54 down to 48
 or 62 down to 54.

 A 46 X 30 looks more complicated:

         12      13      14      15      17      19      21      24      27
 46      104     96      89      83      73      65      59      52      x
 30      x       62      58      54      48      43      39      34      30

 The next gear is now three cogs away.  E.G.  from 59 to 54.
 Certainly doable, but you might want to think about it before you go
 that wide.

 Here's what a 44 X 30 looks like.

         12      13      14      15      17      19      21      24      27
 44      99      91      85      79      70      63      57      50      X
 30      X       62      58      54      48      43      39      34      30

 In this case the two cog shift is a little more than my ideal of 10%,
 (e. g. 50 to 43 or 54 to 63) but still perhaps acceptable.

 For me, I would be willing to give up one half gear at the top  (99 vs
 104) to get a simpler shifting pattern.  Others will disagree.

 BTW, there are web sites that can help in calculating gear ratios, but
 its pretty easy to set up  a spreadsheet like Numbers or Excel to do
 this.  The formualis simplify ( Ring/cog) X 27.  This is an imperfect
 approximation, but good enough for government work!

 Perfection is not reachable nor worth worrying about.  Try what looks
 like the best trade-off for you and change it if you feel you need to.

 Michael

 On Jun 12, 3:07 am, Darren Stone dst...@bitmason.com wrote:

  Hi Michael.  I just read up on the White VBC road crank.  It's quite
  beautiful also.  It's a possibility.  Thank you.

  I'm not sure if I'm understanding the 44-30 logic, but if it's to give
  a superior shift pattern that requires regular double shifts, then I
  may not enjoy it.  I'm shooting for a wide-range double so I get a
  simple-minded 95% of the time ring, rowing through my 8 cogs (12-32)
  in the back, with a bail-out granny ring available when necessary.
  Mad up/down hills being the 5% exceptions that require double shifts.

  Singlespeeding has clearly rotted my brain!!  I embrace any gear range
  now and don't care about step size!  Thanks for doing the math,
  though; I appreciate it.  It caused me to work through the
  possibilities again.  On my Saluki, a 46-12 gives me 99 g.i. (it's
  shod with 650A) and even loaded up I think a 30-32 should be great for
  climbs.

  -Darren.

  On Jun 11, 5:43 pm, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

   Two suggestions.  Why don't you take a look at the White VBC crank
   before you buy. They have a very low Q and lots of ring flexibility.
   Second, one problem with a difference of 16 between rings is that once
   you shift rings you are many cogs away from the next gear, and in fact
   there really isn't a good pattern when you shift rings.  A difference
   of 14 

[RBW] WTB: Baggins Panniers

2009-06-14 Thread erik jensen
Does anyone happen to have a pair of baggins panniers, or ones of similar
tan canvas design, that they would like to sell? Email me off-list with your
asking price, thank you!

Best,

erik

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[RBW] Re: Crank/BB/spindle tips (changing triple to double)

2009-06-14 Thread Garth


Here's my favorite online gear chart:

http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.sherman/shift.html

It's completely tweak-able. Any rings cogs or combos.
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[RBW] Re: Linda Blair's Wheel set?

2009-06-14 Thread carnerda...@bellsouth.net
http://tinyurl.com/lrhk3q
Sounds like you may need to replace the body. Above is a link to Sheldon 
Brown's article on Shimano cassettes and freehubs.  Gets sort of 
complicated with early D-A hubs.

Bruce wrote:
 Let me say first off, yes, I bought these wheels on Ebay. Anyway, 
 they're Synergy rims laced up on some older D-A hubs. The rear is a 
 Uniglide and has a 7 speed cassette of unknown provenance affixed. For 
 the price paid, I really am not too upset, although the seller (who 
 works for a bike coop and should know better) got several items wrong 
 in his write up. When I emailed on the matter, he said, Oh, I never 
 took them out of the box to look at them when I bought them from the 
 prior owner. 

 After truing the front (the rear was good) I took the bike on a 
 shakedown today and found that the 15 cog (the 2d smallest) has a 
 habit of freewheeling when it is used and any appreciable pressure is 
 put on the pedals. No problems on the 17 up to the 28, and only a 
 slight catch detected on the 12 cog. It's kind of like a neck rotating 
 when I go uphill on the 15.

 Any Uniglide users out there with ideas? Do I look for another cassette?

 TIA


 

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[RBW] Re: Crank/BB/spindle tips (changing triple to double)

2009-06-14 Thread PATRICK MOORE
On Sun, Jun 14, 2009 at 6:49 AM, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:



 Here's my favorite online gear chart:

 http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.sherman/shift.html

 It's completely tweak-able. Any rings cogs or combos.


*And* it allows you to vary for tire size. My 559 wheels vary in diameter
from 24 inches to 27 inches, depending on tire (from 22 mm Turbo to 60 mm
Big Apple); this could mean a difference of as much as 14 gear inches,
depending on cog and ring. Likewise, 622 wheels can vary in actual diameter
from 26 1/2 to 29 1/2.

It's also easy to make these in Excel.
-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
Professional Resumes. Contact resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Linda Blair's Wheel set?

2009-06-14 Thread David Estes
I was looking at that sale the 'bay!  Kinda' glad I decided that I ddin't
need a new wheelset...

On Sat, Jun 13, 2009 at 5:13 PM, Bruce fullylug...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Let me say first off, yes, I bought these wheels on Ebay. Anyway, they're
 Synergy rims laced up on some older D-A hubs. The rear is a Uniglide and has
 a 7 speed cassette of unknown provenance affixed. For the price paid, I
 really am not too upset, although the seller (who works for a bike coop and
 should know better) got several items wrong in his write up. When I emailed
 on the matter, he said, Oh, I never took them out of the box to look at
 them when I bought them from the prior owner.

 After truing the front (the rear was good) I took the bike on a shakedown
 today and found that the 15 cog (the 2d smallest) has a habit of
 freewheeling when it is used and any appreciable pressure is put on the
 pedals. No problems on the 17 up to the 28, and only a slight catch detected
 on the 12 cog. It's kind of like a neck rotating when I go uphill on the 15.

 Any Uniglide users out there with ideas? Do I look for another cassette?

 TIA


 



-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

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[RBW] Re: Tires--going big

2009-06-14 Thread charlie

Go wide with pride!!! That my motto.

On Jun 13, 11:33 am, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:
 Go big or go home

 I love that saying !

 I say use as wide a tire as you like and not let that thing between
 your ears(the brain) get in the way.

 It's hard to go back because wider tires are more comfortable , and
 face it .  .  more fun to ride :)
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[RBW] Re: Tires--going big

2009-06-14 Thread Aaron Thomas

I fully agree. I found the difference in ride quality between the
Ruffy Tuffy and Rol-y Pol-y to be striking. While supremely puncture
resistant, the RTs have a thuddy feel. By contrast, the RPs roll way
smoother.

I haven't tried the JBs blues with kevlar, but I find that the JB
greens (sans Kevlar) have a very similar feel to the RPs, just a
little more cushy.

On Jun 13, 7:00 pm, David Faller dfal...@charter.net wrote:
 I've only used the JB greens (sans Kevlar), so that may explain the smooth 
 ride... Kevlar is an excellent insurance, but it does firm up the ride a 
 little.

   - Original Message -
   From: Mike
   To: RBW Owners Bunch
   Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2009 6:44 PM
   Subject: [RBW] Re: Tires--going big

   Yes, I've got the Araya in the front. I couldn't remember the name.
   The original Araya rear wheel fell apart withint two weeks. That's
   good to know that it'll handle a JB without problems. I've got both
   Pasela 32s and JB blues. Both sets of tires have been pretty well
   used, especially the JBs but they'll be fine for a few more rides.
   While I like the shape of the JBs more I think the Paselas feel a
   little better. Weird.

   On Jun 13, 2:45 pm, Horace max...@sdf.lonestar.org wrote:
    How funny, those are the rims on my Romulus: Mavic Open Sport in the
    rear, and the stock Araya rim on the front. I'm running Jack Brown
    Blues with no problems. Like apparently everyone else who has tried
    the tires -- I love them.

    Horace.

    On Sat, Jun 13, 2009 at 10:41 AM, Mikemjawn...@gmail.com wrote:

     I've got the JB blues that were on my Hilsen, perhaps I'll put those
     on. My rear wheel is a Mavic Open Sport which I think can handle a
     tire as wide as a JB but the front rim appears narrower, it's the
     original stock wheel that came with the Rambouillet. Anyone running
     JBs on those rims? Any problems?- Hide quoted text -

    - Show quoted text -


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[RBW] Re: Tires--going big

2009-06-14 Thread Steve Palincsar

On Sun, 2009-06-14 at 09:37 -0700, Aaron Thomas wrote:
 I fully agree. I found the difference in ride quality between the
 Ruffy Tuffy and Rol-y Pol-y to be striking. While supremely puncture
 resistant, the RTs have a thuddy feel. By contrast, the RPs roll way
 smoother.

Those are the up- and downsides to the belt in the RT.




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[RBW] Re: Tires--going big

2009-06-14 Thread EricP

That's interesting.  I've not noticed any downside to the TourGuard
Pasela tires.  Of course, for wide, I prefer 35 or wider in 700C.  And
for 26 50mm seems to be the way to go (yea Big Apples!)

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN



On Jun 14, 4:59�pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 On Sun, 2009-06-14 at 09:37 -0700, Aaron Thomas wrote:
  I fully agree. I found the difference in ride quality between the
  Ruffy Tuffy and Rol-y Pol-y to be striking. While supremely puncture
  resistant, the RTs have a thuddy feel. By contrast, the RPs roll way
  smoother.

 Those are the up- and downsides to the belt in the RT.
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[RBW] Logjams Other Adminny-type stuff

2009-06-14 Thread CycloFiend

Hey there - 

I just arrived home from a week on vacation and wanted to first apologize
and then update everyone on the list status.

My plan had been to check in every other day or so to flush the spam
attempts to the list and pass through anyone whose comments are currently
moderated.  Well, my cobbled-together-from-two-good-ones laptop finally
frizzled and died, so despite a brief moment of optimism during my first
attempt this past week, I haven't accessed the list since last Monday.

It looks like a few moderated posts are in with the junk, so those are
likely to show up tomorrow AM.

If any legitimate post looks like it was date-specific, and we're past the
time, I'll probably just delete it.  The rest of the stuff should be passed
through.

More importantly, _IF_ you get notification that you've been banned from the
list, please email me directly.  There's enough spurious posts that I delete
them by title, and I have made mistakes in the past.

Thanks for your patience!

- Jim


-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Admin / RBW Owner's Bunch List


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[RBW] Installing a Tubus Luna rack

2009-06-14 Thread 40_Acres

I've wanted to install a narrow-profile, pannier-compatible rack like
the Tubus Fly or Luna for commuting on my AHH, but was worried about
fitment with that mono-stay.  It seemed like a shame to let those seat
stay braze-ons go to waste, and bending and cutting the mono-stay to
fit was pretty intimidating.  I bought a Luna from Wayne at
TheTouringStore.com (who is great, by the way), and then stared at it
for a couple of weeks.  I considered bringing it to one of the local
bike shops, but then last night I just went for it.  Installation
wasn't nearly as bad as I thought.  The rack comes with a steel tab
that you can use to bridge the aluminum mono-stay to the rear brake
bolt.  This tab comes slightly pre-bent, so it's easy to finish the
job.  I clamped it in a vice by the wide end, and pounded the narrow
end to 90 degrees.  Easy.  I then unbolted the rear brake, removed the
last aluminum spacer (behind the thin fender mount), and replaced it
with the 90 degree tab.Then I mounted the rack to the second set
of eyelets on the rear dropouts (using the included black aluminum
spacers to avoid interfering with the fender stays), tilted the rack
level, and kind of eye-balled what how much the aluminum mono-stay
would have to be bent and cut.  I took off about 4 inches with a
hacksaw, clamped resized mono-stay in the vice, and bent it.  Held it
up to the rack / 90 degree tab, then clamped it in the vice again and
bent it a little more.  Perfect.  I sanded the edges of the cut stay,
installed it, and done.  Not nearly as bad as I thought, and the whole
process took about 1 hr.  I'll post pictures later.

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[RBW] Re: New Hilsen

2009-06-14 Thread Ed Fausto
Hi Brian,
That is one nice bike :-)
Your comment that this is your first road bike after 18 years of mountain
biking has made me decide to pull the trigger.
What brooks model have you installed?
The saddle color is a good match to your bike.

Ed


On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 6:14 PM, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:


 Beautiful bike and build.  Only advice - give the drops a good chance
 before switching.  You might learn to love them yet.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On Jun 8, 12:41�am, Brian Hanson stone...@gmail.com wrote:
  I've got about 100 miles on my new Metallic Copper Hilsen. �I did the
 final
  build a few weekends ago in an afternoon, and everything went together
 very
  nicely. �So far so good, but I'm getting used to drop bars and regular
  pedals after riding a mt. bike for the last 18 years. �The jury is still
  out, and I've got a set of Albatross bars waiting in the wings. �Shifting
 is
  velvet smooth with the 9-speed older Dura-Ace setup. �The Silver shifters
  and brakes are all they're talked up to be...
 
  It was really fun to put this bike together - I loved the frame as soon
 as I
  got it - these bikes are truly special! �Next steps for this project will
 be
  getting some fenders and rackage/baggage - this is the pacific NW after
  all... �BTW - weight as it stands in these pics is right around 25 lbs
 for
  those that care. �On the trail it rides like a freight train - smooth and
  fast. �I shaved about 5-10 minutes off my daily 10 mile one-way commute,
  although it's probably pure adrenaline from the big stupid grin on my
 face.
 
  Hilsen Pics http://picasaweb.google.com/stonehog/AHomerHilsenInSeattle#
 
 
  Brian Hanson
 


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[RBW] Re: 650B -Grand Bois Cypres tire

2009-06-14 Thread Jan Heine

Thanks, John, for the correction.

Regarding Bicycle Quarterly's tire tests, the statistical analysis of
our results showed that the differences we found were real, not some
artifacts of changes in conditions or in rider position. Anybody who
wants to criticize the results of the tests needs to look at the
statistics and figure out how they were flawed.

Both the Grand Bois and the Maxy-Fasty were tested several times, and
always came out the same. I am confident in our results, just as I am
confident in the test results that showed that higher pressure (beyond
a certain point) does not provide a worth-while increase in speed.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
140 Lakeside Ave #C
Seattle WA 98122
http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com


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[RBW] Re: Touring New Zealand - question

2009-06-14 Thread Pete

The answer to your first question is yes, it is very possible.

My wife and I have tourned NZ four times, twice on each Island.  We've
always been fully loaded, as it is an ideal country for camping (You
can camp wild, camp in DOC campgrounds, or at KOA-type motercamps or
holiday parks that are everywhere and usually evenly spaced for
moderate length bike rides).   But there are also numerous backpackers
and hostels and over the years the number of motels have increased
dramatically too.  They are clean and nicely equiped and you'll always
get a kitchenette and refrigerator with milk for your tea.  Most are
relatively inexpensive (at least by U.S. standards).

You will be going before peak season and school holidays (at least I
think so) so my guess is you won't have any trouble finding places to
stay even without advanced booking.  I mention the motorcamps and
holiday parks because the majority of these also have simple small
cabins where you can stay even if you don't have camping gear.  They
are inexpensive because they are usually small and you can use the
toliet, shower and kitchen blocks that are for the campers.  Every
motorcamp and holiday park has full kitchens with refrigerators,
stoves, microwaves, toasters and hot water kettles (usually there is
always boiling water available for tea, but pushing a button or
pulling a lever).  They also have rec rooms with TVs and on our last
trip most also had Internet.

Are you going to the North Island or the South?  It has been 20 years
since I've been to the North Island, and I have heard traffic has
become much worse, but I can still probably offer advice on routes if
you want to contact me offline.

Pete



On Jun 9, 10:55 pm, Gino Zahnd ginoza...@gmail.com wrote:
 Thanks folks. I just booked a 22 day chunk of time for late
 November/December via Qantas Air.  Round trip from SFO is $549.  I'm not
 sure what the deal is with flights right now, but I saw roundtrip to Paris,
 Germany, Ireland, etc. from California for around $450, which seems mighty
 cheap, relatively speaking.

 Now, time to figure out what to do with that 22 days.



 On Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 8:36 PM, David Estes cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  Also get hold of Antoine at:  http://ibikenz.blogspot.com/

  On Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 7:18 PM, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote:

  On Jun 9, 2009, at 8:17 PM, Gino Zahnd wrote:

   I'm considering heading to NZ for several weeks, and I'm wondering
   if it's possible to inn-to-inn or hostel tour.  Ideally, I'd like
   to get away with simply a handlebar bag, and a saddlebag. If you've
   done this, let me know how easy/hard it is, and what you'd have
   done differently.

  Check out the New Zealand section ofhttp://www.crazyguyonabike.com

  --
  Cheers,
  David
  Redlands, CA- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Any riders in NC

2009-06-14 Thread Kevin Pollen

I'm moving to a town called raeford for the first year but i should be
in Raleigh after that. I will also be spending a lot of time in
raleigh my first year there anyways.

On Jun 7, 6:57 am, Will wpm...@gmail.com wrote:
 And if you are moving to the Raliegh/Durham/Chapel Hill area, there is
 a bike club called the Tar Wheels that rides out of Orange, Durham,
 Wake, Alamance, and Chatham counties (http://tarwheels.org). The club
 is composed of a lot of fun, adventurous, welcoming, easy-going folks
 with all sorts of abilities and interests.

 On Jun 6, 1:22 pm, J. Burkhalter burk...@yahoo.com wrote:

  On Jun 5, 5:59 pm, Kevin Pollen pollencloth...@gmail.com wrote:

   I am moving to North Carolina at the end of the month and i was
   wondering if they're were any riders out there? Also if you are there
   what is the weather like and how is the riding? I am looking for some
   people to ride with since i will be new the the area.

   Thanks,
   Kevin
   Currently in SF

  Hey Kevin,

  Lots of riders in NC.  Big state though.  Where ya headed?  I live in
  the mountainous western side where the weather is brilliant and riding
  superb.  For the most part we miss the notorious hot and muggy summers
  of the rest of the state.  Winters can be quite cold (usually early on
  in Nov/Dec) but definitely still rideable.  I use fenders pretty much
  year around.  WNC is known for its incredible mountain biking, but the
  road riding is easily as good, if not better, and there are a lot of
  mixed terrain options, too.  There is a new Riv dealer just south of
  Asheville in Flat Rock.

  If you're into the rando thing, there are 2 active groups in the
  state, both offering a full brevet series, one in the Greensboro/
  Winston area and the other in the Raleigh area.  Good mix of great
  people.  If you're moving to WNC, Audax Atlanta is closer, and their
  brevet series is in the beautiful North GA mtns.  I love the routes
  there.

  Here are some links that may be helpful...

 http://www.blueridgebicycleclub.org/http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/gr...

  All the best,
  -Jay
  Asheville, NC

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[RBW] Re: 650B -Grand Bois Cypres tire

2009-06-14 Thread Gino Zahnd

In my experience, the Cypres was very prone to puncture. I had more
than one flat for every 100 miles I rode with that tire. In my book,
that is completely unacceptable.

On the other hand, I've been riding the Hetre on my Saluki for 500
miles now, and have yet to flat, even with a good amount of mixed
terrain riding in thorny Chico and Mt. Lassen/northern Sierras. Aside
from the better durability, I'll also stick my neck out and say that
the Hetre is hands down the most comfortable tire I've ever ridden.
It's fast, quiet, and durable. If you can stomach the cost of the
Hetre, they're certainly at the top of the 650b tire heap.

Gino
Chico, CA



On Thu, Jun 11, 2009 at 8:18 AM,
Rocky.Bondadfundamental.bicyc...@gmail.com wrote:

 Gosh I'm still undecided if I should get the Cypres or the Hetres for
 my wife's Bleriot.  She mainly rides on the weekends and I want to get
 her nice comfy fast tires.  I hear so many great reviews for both
 Grand Bois tires.


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