[RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread charlie
Yea, I ran the numbers tonight and with high quality Sanyo batteries,
a quality charger plus two 2 Watt lights it ended up around $140
so..this means I would only need $350 more for what I really want.
I just can't settle for less, unless its way less. I just don't want
to spend money twice. I do this often and regret it later. I
compromise and find out later I should have purchased what I wanted. I
nearly always end up doing so later wasting the initial money I spent
in the first place. I can see myself using a generator hub of quality
and riding more because I have one.  Maybe some of you can explain the
real world realizationsyou had after getting a Son hub or..did any
of you find out that you really didn't need such a fancy setup?

On Oct 6, 6:40 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> I just had a Shimano DN something (disk model) or another built into
> an existing rim for $150 including six bolt rotor adaptor. Add $100
> for a Cyo: $250 plus tax or plus shipping, take your choice. Not as
> cheap as a Blaze, but not $500, either.
>
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 7:33 PM, charlie  wrote:
> > I use the inexpensive Planet bike 1 watt light and have used two of
> > them mounted on my bar. These seem to have enough brightness for me to
> > see fine up to about 18 mph. I'd love a Son 28 built on a A719 rim to
> > match my back wheel but this combo with the lights is over $500. I can
> > buy two 2 watt Plant bike lights for around $100 and get some AA
> > rechargeable batteries and be fine I think. My 1 watt PB light is as
> > bright as my Fenex L2d flashlight in the standard high power mode (107
> > lumens) so two 2 watt lights ought to be plenty. The only problem I
> > can see is that these lights are not the best for oncoming traffic
> > like the generator lamps are and some of the battery powered German
> > made lamps.
>
> --
> Patrick Moore
> Albuquerque, NM
> For professional resumes, contact
> Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread Brian Hanson
http://picasaweb.google.com/stonehog/HilsenAcorn#5451356917401658050

This is one way to mount a "normal" bar-mounted light on a wald.  I've had
good luck with a cork and 3 zip-ties.

Brian
Seattle, WA

On Tue, Oct 5, 2010 at 7:39 AM, opa...@gmail.com  wrote:

> For those of you that are replying - do any of you use a Wald front
> basket with your light?  If so - how is it mounted?  I'd love to have
> a light mounted in front of the basket, preferably above/on the fender
> - but I never could figure out a way to make it work with the
> NiteRider.
>
> On Oct 5, 6:44 am, "opa...@gmail.com"  wrote:
> > Looking for light recommendations for use in my ride in the early
> > morning hours, about a 10 mile ride on dark rural roads.  I am looking
> > for suggestions by Riv owners for lights that work with their setups.
> > I am a longtime owner/user of the NightRider "classic", which was ok,
> > although I never liked the gunky coax-like cabling, but the 3 ton
> > battery has finally given out and I'm ready for something new,
> > hopefully lighter in weight, and brighter, if possible...LED's?.  Does
> > anyone still use generator type lights?
> >
> > Since this is not really RBW related, please email your suggestions
> > offline!
> >
> > Cheers
>
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[RBW] Re: birthday discounts?

2010-10-06 Thread Calm54

Happy Birthday all!  I sent bday in and never heard from anyone
concerning receipt.  Maybe I am not getting older!
On Oct 6, 9:51 am, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Ken Mattina  wrote:
> > Happy birthday Seth.  It's my birthday too!
>
> > Happy birthday to us!
>
> indeed!
> Happy birthday to you.
>
> -sv

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[RBW] Re: slickersack experiences?

2010-10-06 Thread Doug
SlickerSack initial impressions:  Well made, looks impressive.  Got
lots of interested looks and a few nice compliments at the grocery
store on Day 1.  I have a Trangia Aluminum Box and a Sigg water bottle
I bring to work with my lunch, and they rattled around a lot inside
the SS on the way home.  Haven't used it since last week 'cause the
lid came off the Trangia box and salad dressing messed up the inside a
bit.  Oops.

I agree with Allan that it comes at a premium price, but there isn't
anything else out there that's quite like it.  Gotta say that it feels
great to have that messenger bag off my back.  Steering feels a bit
different with the weight up front, but you get used to it within 5
minutes.



On Sep 30, 8:13 am, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> Enjoy, Doug! And I'd love to hear any early impressions you develop.
>
> I've had a PlatRack for a while now and also did some cutting to make it 
> work. But man is it a nice stable platform. Holds my SaddleSack Medium 
> nicely; I expect it will work with the large too. But the SlickerSack would 
> be a nice for camping, I think.
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> On Sep 29, 2010, at 9:15 PM, Doug  wrote:
>
>
>
> > My new green SlickerSack and Platrack arrived today and is consistent
> > with the leather strap configuration you describe as current on the
> > website, Thomas.  Sorry I can't describe my experience yet, but the
> > journey starts tomorrow morning.  Platrack installation was pretty
> > straightforward but required a bit of problem solving, mostly
> > involving the diagonal braces.  Ended up having to cut ~2 cm off the
> > top so the SlickerSack would sit level.
>
> > Doug
>
> > On Sep 29, 1:24 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> > wrote:
> >> Oh, I see. Well, to clarify...
>
> >> There are differences between the green and grey ones depicted on the 
> >> web-site. The green one has leather straps in the front. And all four of 
> >> its rack straps are sewn on the bottom and snap on the side. The grey one 
> >> had leather straps on the side, not the front. And all of its rack straps 
> >> are sewn on the side and snap on the bottom.
>
> >> However, I'm aware of at least one green bag in the wild that is arranged 
> >> like the grey on one the web-site.
>
> >> So I take it that there are two different kinds of green bags out there, 
> >> one like the green bag on the web-site and one like the grey one. If I 
> >> were to get a green one now, I believe it would be like the grey one on 
> >> the web-site. That is, I believe that's the style RBW's selling currently, 
> >> regardless of color.
>
> >> So I guess I'm looking for experiences with bags of any color like the 
> >> grey one on the web-site.
>
> >> I take it that's not like yours.
>
> >> Thanks for sharing, though!
>
> >> Yours,
> >> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
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[RBW] Re: Intro/First Riv - Interior Frame Rust Question

2010-10-06 Thread Dlbracey
Thanks for the responses everyone.  Certainly reassuring.  I do hope
to ride it for the next 25 years.  I'll probably go ahead and frame
saver it, touch up the paint, and put it back together.

Also, an update about getting touch up paint from Waterford - I sent
them my serial number and it turns out that my frame was built by them
in Nov 06, but wasn't painted by them, but from what I could conclude
the more recent frames made by them for Rivendell are also painted by
them, so touch up paint would be available.

On Oct 6, 9:35 pm, Bob Cooper  wrote:
> Steel can take a lot and still function as designed.
>
> Do regular maintenance, ride and enjoy.
>
> Inspect the aluminum bits, like pedal eyes in the cranks and also
> stem, handlebar.
>
> Those regions are more likely to fail suddenly but even that's not
> very common.
>
> Bob Cooper

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Re: [RBW] Re: slickersack experiences?

2010-10-06 Thread Robert F. Harrison
Absolutely...I love my PlatRack even when I'm not using my SlickerSack (as,
oddly enough, I am this evening...laptop and such).

I generally keep a basket net on it so I can carry pretty much anything that
isn't too bulky.

Indeed I never take the PlatRack off even though it would take just a couple
of minutes. I rode in the Honolulu Century ride a couple of weekends ago
with the rack (though not the SlickerSack -- but I did have that on the
Haleiwa Metric back in March). I guess I figure that with my Quickbeam I'm
not going anywhere superfast anyway so I might as well be prepared for
anything. Mind you my QB isn't slow...I am. :-)

Aloha!

On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 3:24 PM, Thomas Lynn Skean <
thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net> wrote:

>
> At least pricing is completely and legitimately incremental; you can
> in fact use each of the stages of purchase quite well before (even
> without!) getting the whole SlickerSack package. That PlatRack is
> really nice. And certainly the Mini and the Mark's are outright
> classics on their own.
>
> --
Robert Harrison
rfharri...@gmail.com
statrix.statrix.com

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[RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread Reid
I've always liked the bottle generator on the tire sidewall. The Busch
Muller set up is great with very low drag when on and, of course, no
drag when off. For rainy days, get the little rubber "cap" that fits
over the part of the generator that is turned by the wheel. I use it
year round, all weather on my commuter (Romulus).

Reid

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[RBW] Re: Intro/First Riv - Interior Frame Rust Question

2010-10-06 Thread rcnute
A little rust is a badge of honor.

Ryan

On Oct 6, 7:48 pm, cyclotourist  wrote:
> What a great bike for a first Riv!  There will be more by the way... :-)
>
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 6:35 PM, Bob Cooper 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Steel can take a lot and still function as designed.
>
> > Do regular maintenance, ride and enjoy.
>
> > Inspect the aluminum bits, like pedal eyes in the cranks and also
> > stem, handlebar.
>
> > Those regions are more likely to fail suddenly but even that's not
> > very common.
>
> > Bob Cooper
>
> > --
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>
> --
> Cheers,
> David
> Redlands, CA
>
> *...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
> probably benefit more from
> improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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Re: [RBW] Re: Intro/First Riv - Interior Frame Rust Question

2010-10-06 Thread cyclotourist
What a great bike for a first Riv!  There will be more by the way... :-)



On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 6:35 PM, Bob Cooper wrote:

> Steel can take a lot and still function as designed.
>
> Do regular maintenance, ride and enjoy.
>
> Inspect the aluminum bits, like pedal eyes in the cranks and also
> stem, handlebar.
>
> Those regions are more likely to fail suddenly but even that's not
> very common.
>
> Bob Cooper
>
> --
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>
>


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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 10:14 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> On Wed, 2010-10-06 at 17:24 -0700, Lynne Fitz wrote:
>>
>> I still commute on Bleriot.  In a few days the light will come on and
>> stay on.  And I'm happy it is there.  Completely reliable.  I do not
>> expect it to EVER fail.  The beauty of a generator light is that you
>> never have to "ration" turning it on.  Ever.
>
> And you never ever have to remember to charge it, or keep track of when
> it's time to recharge.  I used to get 3 trips on a recharge of the
> NiteRider battery, which over time became 2 1/2 trips - hence the
> resonance with your comment about "rationing".
>
> The worst part of my commute was 1 1/2 miles from the end, where the
> bike trail goes under the bridges on the GW Parkway, the railroad line
> and Rt 1.  There are lights, but there were several years when they
> weren't working, and at night under those bridges with rip-rap on one
> side of a narrow bike path and the guard rail and the Four Mile Run on
> the other side, it's dark as the inside of your pocket and a certain
> crash if you misjudge.  I dreaded having the light go dim down there,
> and it happened more than once.
>
> I love generator lights.
>

I have one on the tandem and one on the atlantis. I've debated getting
another for the rom but I almost always ride the atlantis if i'm
riding at night.

The remark that made me the happiest about my headlight was when I was
riding up behind some folks walking who turned when I was passing them
and said "wow, I thought you were some sort of motorcycle from that
light"


-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-10-06 at 17:24 -0700, Lynne Fitz wrote:
> 
> I still commute on Bleriot.  In a few days the light will come on and
> stay on.  And I'm happy it is there.  Completely reliable.  I do not
> expect it to EVER fail.  The beauty of a generator light is that you
> never have to "ration" turning it on.  Ever.

And you never ever have to remember to charge it, or keep track of when
it's time to recharge.  I used to get 3 trips on a recharge of the
NiteRider battery, which over time became 2 1/2 trips - hence the
resonance with your comment about "rationing".  

The worst part of my commute was 1 1/2 miles from the end, where the
bike trail goes under the bridges on the GW Parkway, the railroad line
and Rt 1.  There are lights, but there were several years when they
weren't working, and at night under those bridges with rip-rap on one
side of a narrow bike path and the guard rail and the Four Mile Run on
the other side, it's dark as the inside of your pocket and a certain
crash if you misjudge.  I dreaded having the light go dim down there,
and it happened more than once.

I love generator lights.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I just had a Shimano DN something (disk model) or another built into
an existing rim for $150 including six bolt rotor adaptor. Add $100
for a Cyo: $250 plus tax or plus shipping, take your choice. Not as
cheap as a Blaze, but not $500, either.

On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 7:33 PM, charlie  wrote:
> I use the inexpensive Planet bike 1 watt light and have used two of
> them mounted on my bar. These seem to have enough brightness for me to
> see fine up to about 18 mph. I'd love a Son 28 built on a A719 rim to
> match my back wheel but this combo with the lights is over $500. I can
> buy two 2 watt Plant bike lights for around $100 and get some AA
> rechargeable batteries and be fine I think. My 1 watt PB light is as
> bright as my Fenex L2d flashlight in the standard high power mode (107
> lumens) so two 2 watt lights ought to be plenty. The only problem I
> can see is that these lights are not the best for oncoming traffic
> like the generator lamps are and some of the battery powered German
> made lamps.


-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com

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[RBW] Re: Intro/First Riv - Interior Frame Rust Question

2010-10-06 Thread Bob Cooper
Steel can take a lot and still function as designed.

Do regular maintenance, ride and enjoy.

Inspect the aluminum bits, like pedal eyes in the cranks and also
stem, handlebar.

Those regions are more likely to fail suddenly but even that's not
very common.

Bob Cooper

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[RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread charlie
I use the inexpensive Planet bike 1 watt light and have used two of
them mounted on my bar. These seem to have enough brightness for me to
see fine up to about 18 mph. I'd love a Son 28 built on a A719 rim to
match my back wheel but this combo with the lights is over $500. I can
buy two 2 watt Plant bike lights for around $100 and get some AA
rechargeable batteries and be fine I think. My 1 watt PB light is as
bright as my Fenex L2d flashlight in the standard high power mode (107
lumens) so two 2 watt lights ought to be plenty. The only problem I
can see is that these lights are not the best for oncoming traffic
like the generator lamps are and some of the battery powered German
made lamps.

On Oct 5, 4:44 am, "opa...@gmail.com"  wrote:
> Looking for light recommendations for use in my ride in the early
> morning hours, about a 10 mile ride on dark rural roads.  I am looking
> for suggestions by Riv owners for lights that work with their setups.
> I am a longtime owner/user of the NightRider "classic", which was ok,
> although I never liked the gunky coax-like cabling, but the 3 ton
> battery has finally given out and I'm ready for something new,
> hopefully lighter in weight, and brighter, if possible...LED's?.  Does
> anyone still use generator type lights?
>
> Since this is not really RBW related, please email your suggestions
> offline!
>
> Cheers

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[RBW] Re: slickersack experiences?

2010-10-06 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
Sigh, indeed. That is no doubt the root of my weakness for the green.
It represents an S24O, even when I use it to commute. I take comfort
in it, e'en as it mocks me.

And you know, I hadn't even noticed that about the grid grey's black
nylon thing. I assume on the green ones that that's green nylon. And
agree that it should be leather in both cases. Perhaps it was a
structural issue; nylon can be pretty tough stuff.

Another improvement, in my view, would be to do away with the nylon
altogether and replace most of it with cotton webbing and the rest
with leather. However, I believe a Gen-u-Wine Author-i-Tee once posted
to this group that it is really hard to "source" good cotton webbing.
I believe it. And no doubt it would add significantly to a high-enough-
already price tag. But I've got an Ostrich pannier ("The Big
Bicycling"!); their cotton webbing is nigh perfect. Would 't'were on a
SaddleSack!

At least pricing is completely and legitimately incremental; you can
in fact use each of the stages of purchase quite well before (even
without!) getting the whole SlickerSack package. That PlatRack is
really nice. And certainly the Mini and the Mark's are outright
classics on their own.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

On Oct 6, 6:00 pm, Allan in Portland  wrote:
> Well, I like them, but I don't lust them.
>
> The green would just remind me of all the S24O's trips I'm not taking.
>  Sad, but true.
> The grey grid looks sharp, except the black nylon webbing pieces
> should have been leather, and it looks too big for mostly commuting
> with.
> Cost makes me blink as well... it's a $350 package. Worth every penny,
> no doubt. But still.
>
> I reckon this more opinion than information. Sorry.
> -Allan

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[RBW] Re: Intro/First Riv - Interior Frame Rust Question

2010-10-06 Thread charlie
Rust converters can wreck your paint job. I have one thin walled
chrome moly bike that is 26 years old and one that was made in the
1940's. Both have some rust inside but are not in danger of rusting in
half by any means. I live in Washington State, on the wet side ! We
don't usually use salt on the roads so that helps but we do have quite
a bit of rain. Steel naturally forms an oxide coating on its surface
to protect the metal underneath it. In fact, there are some steels
that are designed to do this that are used in steel bridges etc.
Unless you have large flaky rust I wouldn't worry so much providing
your riding environment doesn't include salted roads in the winter. If
it does then get a titanium or stainless steel frame to ride in those
conditions. I'd venture to say that your Rivendell will last 25 years
if you ride the beans out of it, install fenders and take reasonable
care of it. By that I mean, store it inside, (don't) hose it down to
clean it, lube it, wax it, use some touch up paint, watch for exterior
rust, disassemble it every couple of years of use when you do major
servicing and check it out inside, that kind of thing. Otherwise just
use it and in 25 years get a new one.

On Oct 6, 1:54 pm, Dlbracey  wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I've been reading and enjoying the posts here for a long while, but I
> haven't done much posting up until this point.  I just received my
> first Riv bike (used AHH, early Waterford frame) and I'm very excited,
> but I'm also a very fastidious person, perhaps to a fault.  I stripped
> all the parts off the frame last night and thoroughly inspected/
> cleaned the frame.  Besides a couple of small paint chips, I noticed a
> couple of things that concerned me - there appears to be light surface
> rust inside the tubes, visible primarily from the bottom bracket and
> the threads of some of the rack braze ons show some rust.  Should I be
> concerned with this?  Is there anything to do to stop the rusting?
>
> My understanding is that framesaver won't help at this point.  I've
> read about some rust converter options, but I'm not sure I want to go
> that route if it isn't necessary.
>
> Also, I contacted Waterford today and was able to order what they
> claim will be the proper touch up paint for my frame, I'm a bit
> skeptical of it being a match considering the variations in AHH colors
> that I've seen, but I'll report back when I have it.
>
> Any help with the rust question would be much appreciated.
>
> Dan

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[RBW] Re: Intro/First Riv - Interior Frame Rust Question

2010-10-06 Thread Tim McNamara


On Oct 6, 2010, at 3:54 PM, Dlbracey wrote:


Hi all,

I've been reading and enjoying the posts here for a long while, but I
haven't done much posting up until this point.  I just received my
first Riv bike (used AHH, early Waterford frame) and I'm very excited,
but I'm also a very fastidious person, perhaps to a fault.  I stripped
all the parts off the frame last night and thoroughly inspected/
cleaned the frame.  Besides a couple of small paint chips, I noticed a
couple of things that concerned me - there appears to be light surface
rust inside the tubes, visible primarily from the bottom bracket and
the threads of some of the rack braze ons show some rust.  Should I be
concerned with this?  Is there anything to do to stop the rusting?

My understanding is that framesaver won't help at this point.  I've
read about some rust converter options, but I'm not sure I want to go
that route if it isn't necessary.


Good news, it's not like the bike is a goner.  People have ridden  
many unprotected frames for decades without failures due to rust.


The key thing is to keep water out of the frame and give it a way out  
if it gets in.  Grease the seatpost well (this is where most water  
gets in).  Plug the brazing vent holes with beeswax.  Drill a drain  
hole at the lowest point of the frame.  Don't bring a cold frame into  
a warm, humid area.


Go ahead and Frame Saver or Boeshield it.  The worst that can happen  
is no protection in which case you've still got 25 years or more with  
that frame.  But what'll happen is that the light surface rust will  
be covered and oxygen will be kept away from the steel, so the rust  
won't worsen.  Repeat every 5 years or so, if you feel the need.


Enjoy your ride!

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[RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread Tim McNamara


On Oct 6, 2010, at 4:39 PM, William wrote:

On Oct 6, 2:22 pm, Tim McNamara  wrote:

On Oct 6, 2010, at 1:55 PM, William wrote:

I totally forgot that I have an NOS Sanyo Dynapower that I found  
at a

garage sale in my parts box.  Now that I have bikes with kickstand
plates, I wonder if it will fit?  That would be pretty slick.


You might have to do a little work as it is designed to nestle
between the chainstays.  But these are smooth and easy rolling
generators, I don't even notice that mine is engaged except for the
light output.

Oh, right.  So the kickstand plate in this case is a negative, because
the Sanyo has those contours to snuggle up between the stays.  I
forgot about that.


Well, you still might be able to get it to mount readily enough  
through one of the holes on the kickstand plate.  There's a 6 mm bolt  
for mounting the generator that would be oriented properly for this,  
assuming the hole is in the right place (you might have to drill or  
elongate an existing hole.


Since I never use a kickstand, I think the presence of a kickstand  
plate is a detriment no matter what.  Although some of that is just  
my elderly years and the association of those plates with crappy  
department store bikes from the 1970s.  It's not a fair comparison,  
of course, given the fine quality of Riv products but I can't quite  
get over it.


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[RBW] Re: Back to the Friction

2010-10-06 Thread Justin August
Thanks for all your input.

I actually have a shop near me with a nice stock of 8 speed cassettes.
Going to see if I can grab 2 cassettes for the price of a Harris
custom and make one on my own! I love projects...

On Oct 6, 3:11 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
> An 11/48 is one heck of a big gear, 118 gi.  It's actually a touch
> bigger than a 52/12.  Do you really need such a big gear.  My 44/11
> yields 108 gi, the same as a 52/13. I find gi much over 100 have
> limited use.  At the other end a 24/28 yields a very very small gear
> of 23 gi.  Using such a wide ratios of gears then requires an extra
> long cage which will always give less precise shifts with a greater
> chance at slipping.  I run a double with 44/11 at the top and 30/28 at
> the bottom.  This gives me a range of 108 to 29  With that I run the
> new short cage Shimano derailler which is designed specifically for an
> 11 tooth cog and that wide a range.  The shifting is superb.  On my
> touring bike I run a 48/34/26 along with a 12/27 which gives me a too
> high 108 and a 26 at the bottom and get very reliable shifting with an
> old Centaur medium cage.  I'm sure I would be just as happy with a
> 46/36/28.
>
> It is true that the good Shimano HG do not give any sound to announce
> a shift, but the shape is so successful that virtually every shift is
> dead on, even when I run across the entire cassette.  Yesterday I rode
> a very hilly 35 miles which required a lot of shifting and a lot of
> double shifts.  Not one of them missed its mark.  As I said in my
> earlier post the only time I have had trouble was with the low end
> Sram cassette & chain that Riv sells.  After about 300 miles I just
> tossed them out and returned to an HG cassette and Conex chain.
>
> Michael
>
> On Oct 3, 4:31 pm, Justin August  wrote:
>
>
>
> > So it's time to get a new cassette for the Bleriot and I'm in a bit of
> > a quandary. Last time I tried friction shifting something was just
> > off. It wouldn't hold a gear when I started cranking on the bike going
> > up hills or on the flats. Slipping gears drive me bonkers so I dropped
> > it and went indexed.
>
> > However, I recently moved the 700c wheels from my SOMA Double Cross
> > (which the Bleriot replaced) to the Lady's bike. I grabbed an 8 speed
> > cassette from Firehouse bikes and she's been shifting with absolutely
> > 0 problems with her Suntour power ratchet thumbies.
>
> > Since it's time to get a new cassette and I wouldn't mind spending the
> > scrilla on some Silvers - should I be worried about friction shifting
> > across an 8 speed cassette still? I I would probably roll with an
> > 11-28 or 11-30 cassette with 48x36x24 in the front. Last time I was
> > using a 9 speed cassette with a single ring up front and I think that
> > could have been the problem.
>
> > Am I being ridiculous and just order up?
>
> > -Justin

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[RBW] Re: Sackville BarSack

2010-10-06 Thread Erik C
Thanks for responding Thomas! I'm afraid I have no experience with the
slicker sack, but your info was very helpful.

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[RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread Lynne Fitz
Sometimes, it isn't about the cost.  I did originally start out with a
NiteRider Minewt (the original one).  Bright little sucker.  Worked
reasonably well on my commute (7 mi RT at the time), except when I
forgot to recharge it.  It happens.

As I was also getting into the rando stuff, the Minewt worked for a
200k.  It even worked for a 300k (finish at 12:30 am, yup).  It wasn't
going to work for an all-night ride.  Plus, there was a descent
through White Salmon/Bingen that had me desperately wanting a
different light setup.

Enter the SON28/B&M IQ Fly for Bleriot.  Nice.  Never ran out of
light.  It really got a lot more miles commuting than it did brevets/
permanents.  Just saying.  Bleriot has been my go-to bike since I
built it up.  But...

Now I've got another 650B rando bike, and, as technology has moved on,
the new bike has a SON20/Supernova E3.  I will never commute on that
bike.  But as the SON20 was half a pound lighter and less (I haven't
noticed it yet) resistance, and the Supernova was LOTS brighter; and
no dark spot in front of the wheel, I upgraded.

I still commute on Bleriot.  In a few days the light will come on and
stay on.  And I'm happy it is there.  Completely reliable.  I do not
expect it to EVER fail.  The beauty of a generator light is that you
never have to "ration" turning it on.  Ever.

Lynne F

On Oct 5, 4:44 am, "opa...@gmail.com"  wrote:
> Looking for light recommendations for use in my ride in the early
> morning hours, about a 10 mile ride on dark rural roads.  I am looking
> for suggestions by Riv owners for lights that work with their setups.
> I am a longtime owner/user of the NightRider "classic", which was ok,
> although I never liked the gunky coax-like cabling, but the 3 ton
> battery has finally given out and I'm ready for something new,
> hopefully lighter in weight, and brighter, if possible...LED's?.  Does
> anyone still use generator type lights?
>
> Since this is not really RBW related, please email your suggestions
> offline!
>
> Cheers

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[RBW] Re: Intro/First Riv - Interior Frame Rust Question

2010-10-06 Thread MichaelH
I don't think you need to be overly concerned about a little bit of
oxidation.  That's pretty normal.  Do you live in a particularly moist
environment? I would pull the BB once a year and check things out.

My daughter is still riding her brothers first racing bike - a nice
Bianchi purchased in 1984.  Many years ago, while overhauling the bike
for her, I saw what looked like lots of rust in the bb shell and
encouraged her to buy a new frame.  Well, it's still going strong in
rainy Vermont.

Michael

On Oct 6, 4:54 pm, Dlbracey  wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I've been reading and enjoying the posts here for a long while, but I
> haven't done much posting up until this point.  I just received my
> first Riv bike (used AHH, early Waterford frame) and I'm very excited,
> but I'm also a very fastidious person, perhaps to a fault.  I stripped
> all the parts off the frame last night and thoroughly inspected/
> cleaned the frame.  Besides a couple of small paint chips, I noticed a
> couple of things that concerned me - there appears to be light surface
> rust inside the tubes, visible primarily from the bottom bracket and
> the threads of some of the rack braze ons show some rust.  Should I be
> concerned with this?  Is there anything to do to stop the rusting?
>
> My understanding is that framesaver won't help at this point.  I've
> read about some rust converter options, but I'm not sure I want to go
> that route if it isn't necessary.
>
> Also, I contacted Waterford today and was able to order what they
> claim will be the proper touch up paint for my frame, I'm a bit
> skeptical of it being a match considering the variations in AHH colors
> that I've seen, but I'll report back when I have it.
>
> Any help with the rust question would be much appreciated.
>
> Dan

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[RBW] Re: slickersack experiences?

2010-10-06 Thread Allan in Portland
Well, I like them, but I don't lust them.

The green would just remind me of all the S24O's trips I'm not taking.
 Sad, but true.
The grey grid looks sharp, except the black nylon webbing pieces
should have been leather, and it looks too big for mostly commuting
with.
Cost makes me blink as well... it's a $350 package. Worth every penny,
no doubt. But still.

I reckon this more opinion than information. Sorry.
-Allan

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[RBW] Re: slickersack experiences?

2010-10-06 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
...chirp chirp...
...chirp chirp...

>From the sound of the crickets I must conclude that either:

(1) the SlickerSacks completely and utterly rivet their owners to
their bikes; owners have no further desire to merely discourse on
riding when they can ride with the wonderful magical everyone-should-
get-one SlickerSack

or

(2) the SlickerSack is not RBW's best-selling bag

Now, since "the market" is a tricky thing, I acknowledge that (1) and
(2) are not mutually exclusive.

And even *if* only (2) is true, that also is understandable; the
SlickerSack is not anything like a bag that pops into everyone's mind
as soon as the phrase "bike bag" is heard. It has a very-not-cheap pre-
requisite (which itself has a not-very-cheap pre-requisite!). It has
few organizational features (it has a top! and sides! and a divider
you're told not to use! :)). It has a "unique" shape (is there a name
for its shape? besides "irregular round-cornered sorta-hexagon", I
mean).

In its element, it *looks* like it would work beautifully. It's a
trunk and a shelf. Neat in a storage-area-under-the-bed sort of way.
It *looks* secure and sturdy on the rack. I like its unique shape
quite a bit. I know I'd love packing and unpacking it. I'd probably
even use the divider. And surely there's no better canvas out of which
to make a bag; the Sackville all-cotton canvas is truly wonderful
stuff. I have enough of it to know. (Still don't get the appeal of the
Grid Grey's look. Just doesn't work for me. I'm sure it's at least as
tough and functional as the green is or the black was. But still...
it's grey! it's got a grid! I am not a fan.)

These, however, are my musings. My wonderings. My hopes. My
expectations? They are not information.

"What do you want?"
"Information."
"You won't get it!"
"By hook or by crook, we will."

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

On Sep 30, 8:13 am, Thomas Lynn Skean 
wrote:
> Enjoy, Doug! And I'd love to hear any early impressions you develop.
>
> I've had a PlatRack for a while now and also did some cutting to make it 
> work. But man is it a nice stable platform. Holds my SaddleSack Medium 
> nicely; I expect it will work with the large too. But the SlickerSack would 
> be a nice for camping, I think.
>
> Yours,
> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
> On Sep 29, 2010, at 9:15 PM, Doug  wrote:
>
> > My new green SlickerSack and Platrack arrived today and is consistent
> > with the leather strap configuration you describe as current on the
> > website, Thomas.  Sorry I can't describe my experience yet, but the
> > journey starts tomorrow morning.  Platrack installation was pretty
> > straightforward but required a bit of problem solving, mostly
> > involving the diagonal braces.  Ended up having to cut ~2 cm off the
> > top so the SlickerSack would sit level.
>
> > Doug
>
> > On Sep 29, 1:24 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean 
> > wrote:
> >> Oh, I see. Well, to clarify...
>
> >> There are differences between the green and grey ones depicted on the 
> >> web-site. The green one has leather straps in the front. And all four of 
> >> its rack straps are sewn on the bottom and snap on the side. The grey one 
> >> had leather straps on the side, not the front. And all of its rack straps 
> >> are sewn on the side and snap on the bottom.
>
> >> However, I'm aware of at least one green bag in the wild that is arranged 
> >> like the grey on one the web-site.
>
> >> So I take it that there are two different kinds of green bags out there, 
> >> one like the green bag on the web-site and one like the grey one. If I 
> >> were to get a green one now, I believe it would be like the grey one on 
> >> the web-site. That is, I believe that's the style RBW's selling currently, 
> >> regardless of color.
>
> >> So I guess I'm looking for experiences with bags of any color like the 
> >> grey one on the web-site.
>
> >> I take it that's not like yours.
>
> >> Thanks for sharing, though!
>
> >> Yours,
> >> Thomas Lynn Skean
>
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[RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread William
Oh, right.  So the kickstand plate in this case is a negative, because
the Sanyo has those contours to snuggle up between the stays.  I
forgot about that.

On Oct 6, 2:22 pm, Tim McNamara  wrote:
> On Oct 6, 2010, at 1:55 PM, William wrote:
>
> > I totally forgot that I have an NOS Sanyo Dynapower that I found at a
> > garage sale in my parts box.  Now that I have bikes with kickstand
> > plates, I wonder if it will fit?  That would be pretty slick.
>
> You might have to do a little work as it is designed to nestle  
> between the chainstays.  But these are smooth and easy rolling  
> generators, I don't even notice that mine is engaged except for the  
> light output.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread CycloFiend
on 10/5/10 7:30 AM, Michael_S at mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote:

> I've been using the Dinotte 200 AA model which uses 4 NiMh
> rechargables. It is a bright 200 lumen light and has a very clean
> beam. The only drawback is the 2 hour run time at full power. You can
> carry an extra set of battries for longer night rides.

Ride-buddy Carlos had a nice hack for the Dinotte 200 -

http://bike.duque.net/dinotte-5w-hack.htm

- J

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[RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread Tim McNamara


On Oct 6, 2010, at 1:55 PM, William wrote:


I totally forgot that I have an NOS Sanyo Dynapower that I found at a
garage sale in my parts box.  Now that I have bikes with kickstand
plates, I wonder if it will fit?  That would be pretty slick.


You might have to do a little work as it is designed to nestle  
between the chainstays.  But these are smooth and easy rolling  
generators, I don't even notice that mine is engaged except for the  
light output.


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Re: [RBW] Lights

2010-10-06 Thread CycloFiend
on 10/5/10 4:44 AM, opa...@gmail.com at opa...@gmail.com wrote:

> Looking for light recommendations for use in my ride in the early
> morning hours, about a 10 mile ride on dark rural roads.  I am looking
> for suggestions by Riv owners for lights that work with their setups.
> I am a longtime owner/user of the NightRider "classic", which was ok,
> although I never liked the gunky coax-like cabling, but the 3 ton
> battery has finally given out and I'm ready for something new,
> hopefully lighter in weight, and brighter, if possible...LED's?.  Does
> anyone still use generator type lights?

If the last light you had was the NR Classic, you will be pleasantly
surprised by the changes in battery weight if you go that way.

In addition to the most appropriate suggestion, which was to read through
the info on Peter White's site, you may find that you don't actually need a
lot of light for rural use, depending upon how much auto traffic you have.

The current crop of low wattage, high intensity LED's  give pretty good
light - enough so that your eyes can adapt fairly quickly IF you have decent
night vision and aren't receiving a retina-scorching set of auto headlights
in your eyes every minute or so.  A short-brimmed hat will help a bit
against that.

I run the USB-rechargeable (and traditionally rechargeable) NR mini whatever
with a bright but narrow beam which goes on/off quickly (shopping) to see
plus a widely dispersed AA battery LED to be seen from the sides.  LED
Headlamp to shine at side entering vehicles.  But, I'm on a fairly urban
route.  If I am on the less trafficked route home, I see how little light I
can get away with. 

I do covet the SON20/Edelux setup though

- J



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[RBW] Intro/First Riv - Interior Frame Rust Question

2010-10-06 Thread Dlbracey
Hi all,

I've been reading and enjoying the posts here for a long while, but I
haven't done much posting up until this point.  I just received my
first Riv bike (used AHH, early Waterford frame) and I'm very excited,
but I'm also a very fastidious person, perhaps to a fault.  I stripped
all the parts off the frame last night and thoroughly inspected/
cleaned the frame.  Besides a couple of small paint chips, I noticed a
couple of things that concerned me - there appears to be light surface
rust inside the tubes, visible primarily from the bottom bracket and
the threads of some of the rack braze ons show some rust.  Should I be
concerned with this?  Is there anything to do to stop the rusting?

My understanding is that framesaver won't help at this point.  I've
read about some rust converter options, but I'm not sure I want to go
that route if it isn't necessary.

Also, I contacted Waterford today and was able to order what they
claim will be the proper touch up paint for my frame, I'm a bit
skeptical of it being a match considering the variations in AHH colors
that I've seen, but I'll report back when I have it.

Any help with the rust question would be much appreciated.

Dan

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[RBW] Re: Tent advice needed for S24O?

2010-10-06 Thread cm
I am the one who posted about the Megamid in the previous post. It is
a great tent and incredibly versatile, but I wouldn't want it as my
only tent. I much prefer a traditional, double wall (separate tent and
rain fly), free-standing tent as my "go-to". If you get the footprint
there are lots of pitching options. I have worked in the outdoor
industry for a while and in my experience most tents are very good
quality-- probably better than most people need. I think there is a
big difference between lightweigt and ultra-lite-- very much like
bikes. Shop smart -- lighweight comes at a cost (cheap, light,
durable--- pick two). There also seem to be a little bit of a price
war over the last few years with companies trying to have the best
entry level tent. These tents are made out of great materials, great
quality, smart/ simple set-up and at great prices. Marmot, Sierra
Designs, Eureka, Big Agnes come to mind as great values. I really like
Marmot's lower priced tents. That said, the Big Agnes Seedhouse 2 and
Seedhouse 2 UL (discontinued/ replaced with the Fly Creek 2 i believe)
is the bees-knees for lightweight, packable, reasonably priced, and
free-standing tents.

Cheers!
cm

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[RBW] Re: Sackville BarSack

2010-10-06 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
Hi!

I have a green BarSack/F-15. I have used it some but not consistently.
I don't often feel like putting on the F-15 "fork", even though it is
only a minor hassle. And I don't like leaving it on for days when I'm
not going to use it. (I don't use the BarSack for commuting; I can't
think of a way to protect it or its contents from ne'er-do-wells
whilst parked at a train station for 9 hours at a time.) So that's a
"con" right there.

However, it has been wonderful in use. The magnetic open/close system
is exactly what I hoped for: super-easy access but secure closure.
They say keep the weight to a few pounds. But it held >5lbs for me
without any additional support and did not appear "strained".

It is not waterproof, though it is pretty protective. Small gaps can
form between the top flap and the side flaps, depending on your
contents. Those allow some water in the corners. The side pockets are
not fully covered either. With rough-ride jostling, something tiny
like a coin battery or a nut or washer stored loosely in a side pocket
might bounce out. Bigger stuff is well-blocked by the flap.

The material itself is, like all the Sackville stuff, rain resistant
but will definitely soak through during a strong or long downpour and
allow contents to get wet. If you intend to use the separately-sold
map case, that'll prevent direct soaking through the top even in a
sustained rain. The map case does make opening/closing a little less
than perfect. But it still works fine.

I have used the BarSack/F-15 combination on Albatross bars (required
some tricky shimming, that did) and on Noodle bars (which required no
shimming at all, of course). It's a very easy bag to use. And because
it has *no* solid structure of its own, it works very well as a
shoulder bag too. I think it comes with a shoulder strap; you should
confirm that though.

I'm probably not the person to ask about handling. It poses no problem
for me. But then, I have no problem with an Arkel Big Bar Bag
(actually a very solidly constructed box) carrying 10-15 pounds of
shifty contents on camping trips. I guess I just don't understand or
even notice "handling" problems of that sort. It never occurs to me to
ride "no hands", so the fact that I probably can't do so well with a
loaded high bar bag is moot. And I apparently maintain significant
pressure on the handlebar when I ride, without incurring any
particular discomfort. When people talk about handling, I think they
must be referring to qualities which matter when you go 20+mph a
*whole* lot more than they matter when you go 15mph. I go 15mph a lot.
I very very rarely go 20+mph, and then only in a straight line.

There's definitely a difference when I have any sort of weight on the
front, be it high or low. And I wouldn't put 30 pounds up that high.
But with the sort of weight I would ever put in a cloth bar bag (I'd
probably stop at 10 lbs, even supported by a strap of some kind), it's
not a difference that I even think about. I just hold on the handlebar
and point it where I want it to go. You manage. It feels fine. It
doesn't make me noticeably more tired after a 50 mile ride. (By the
way, my Albatross bar is the 56cm bar; my Noodle is the 48cm bar.)

If you expect to use it regularly or if you don't mind having the F-15
on the bar all the time, then my "con" won't be a con for you at all.

If you will want to take it off the F-15 regularly, you can rig it
with hex-socket "studs" or "set-screws" that thread into the ends of
the F-15, leaving some thread exposed. Then use wing nuts on the
exposed thread to secure the bag from sliding forward off the F-15.
Now, the fact is that the "snap-around" flap in the back of the bag
does a great job of holding the bag in place all on its own. I've used
the bag without the wing nuts on the F-15 without any hint of a
problem. But that was only with lighter loads (2-3 lbs). Whenever I go
on the trail or for 10s of miles, I secure it in front just so I don't
have to think about it.

Oh, and on a drop bar, you can make installing/removing the fork super
easy using a similar arrangement if you leave the handlebar clamp part
connected all the time (which I do). It's pretty easy already with the
standard bolts on the drop bar. The main reason I haven't used the bag
more is that it is *not* as straightforward to install/remove the
F-15's fork on the Albatross bars. The shim job I've done is not
perfect. There's always pressure for the handlebar clamps to move out
of alignment with the fork's rear "slots" for the clamp's
"projections". So I always have to tinker with it to get it level and
reasonably symmetrical on the Albatross bars, no matter how I secure
the fork to the handlebar clamp (with either normal bolt/washer or
stud/wingnut). And all in all, I'm sure the normal bolt/washer
arrangement is more secure there.

Feel free to ask questions if I haven't been clear about anything.

And if you have any experience or know of anyone experience with a
SlickerSack, please le

[RBW] Re: Back to the Friction

2010-10-06 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
Hi!

Well, one thing I've seen is that 8-speed cassettes and chains can be
had more cheaply than 9-speed cassettes and chains. Even the front
*and* rear derailers that are marketed as 9-speed tend to be more
expensive than those marketed as 8-speed. On the rears, I'm not sure
there's *anything* "speed-specific" to really distinguish 8-speed
derailers from 9-speed derailers.

Now, I'm sure we're expected to *believe* there's an actual quality
difference between those "8-speed" components and the "9-speed"
components. And there may *be* a quality difference. I'm not saying
there isn't. In fact, I kind of suspect there is for 9-speed rear
derailers. But I'm not sure it's a quality difference that results in
a functional difference, when used in they are used in the proper
context.

But... I will say that I've ridden several (>5... 6? 7?) thousand
miles using "830"-series SRAM chains (<$13) and cassettes (<$20) using
a Shimano Acera rear derailer (used to be $15, now $20) and some un-
grouped generic Shimano 8-speed front derailer using indexed front and
rear Shimano trigger brifters (<$50) and have had no shifting problems
that weren't explained by debris in the drivetrain. Nor have I had any
particularly rapid wear; I've gotten well >1000 miles out of each
chain and got >3000 miles on my first cassette.

I'm sure some people get more than that out of both their chain and
cassette, 9-speed users included. But I'm pretty sure switching from 8
to 9 speeds would likely be more expensive for a given rider long-
term, even assuming the 9-speed stuff is in fact higher quality and
would last somewhat longer for that rider. I doubt that it would
generally last twice as long.

So basically, IMHO, choose 9-speeds it offers something tangible that
you want (desired choices for gearing range and steps, lighter weight
components, shifting the front derailer less often, etc)... I wouldn't
choose it based on the belief that 8-speed drivetrains don't shift as
well. Thousands of miles of virtually flawless shifting on a mere Trek
hybrid tell me that 8-speed drivetrains shift quite well. If you're
happy with the range and stepping provided by an 8-speed 11-32
cassette, it'll work fine for you. I've been happy with 11-28, 11-30,
and 11-32. I almost never used the 11. And never *needed* the 32,
though I did sometimes shift to it when hauling 55lbs away from an
uphill stoplight. Could've done it okay with the 28, but the 32 was
there.

As for spacing... according to Sheldon 9-speed Shimano/SRAM cassette
cogs are over 0.46mm closer together than cogs on 8-speed Shimano/SRAM
cassettes (i.e. 4.34mm for 9, 4.8mm for 8). To me, that's a difference
that certainly *could* make a difference in friction shifting
performance for a given rider. Some people, maybe most people, will be
able to friction shift 9-speed cassettes without problems, I'm sure.
But I'm also sure that there are people out there who would have no
problem friction shifting an 8-speed cassette for whom a 9-speed
cassette will be a significant challenge. The difference between 8-
speed and 7-speed varies but typically within a narrower range.
Sheldon gives several examples of 5.0mm spacing for 7-speed cassettes/
freewheels; IRD told me their Defiant 7-speed freewheel spacing is
4.9mm. (I believe them too; I have no shifting problems with Shimano 8-
speed bar-ends and an IRD 7-speed freewheel on my Hillborne.)

And for the record... I intend to use the brifters I've got until they
stop working well. They were the first thing I wanted to change about
the bike when I got it. But they've never given me an excuse to do so.
Since I now have a Hillborne, one can understand that it may be a
while before I put another several thousand miles on my Trek! But when
the brifters do die (perhaps by being hit with a hammer-shaped
object :)), I'll replace them with Shimano bar-ends-on-Thumbies and
some generic brake lever (this bike does not merit Paul brakes or
levers). That'll be partly for aesthetics (the brifters are big and
clunky-looking), partly for consistency (I use bar-ends or bar-ends-on-
Thumbies on my Hillborne), and partly because I simply prefer the feel
of the rotating action of the bar-end to the two-lever arrangement of
the brifter shifting. It will *not* be because I expect the bar-ends
to work better than the brifters.

I *love* using friction for the front derailer; I'm so glad Shimano
made the bar-ends work that way. If I had an indexed option, I
wouldn't use it. I currently use indexed with the rear derailer,
though I've had no particular problem the few times I've toyed with
friction shifting there as well. In fact, I fully intend to give rear-
derailer friction shifting a fair shake by trying out the Silver
shifters I have but simply haven't taken the time to install yet. In
the end I have no doubt that I'll have at least one cockpit set up
with friction front and back, simply for the variety if for no other
reason. I like the function of indexing. But I'm no fan 

[RBW] Sackville BarSack

2010-10-06 Thread Erik C
I'm seriously considering picking up a BarSack for my Bleriot. I
searched the archives and couldn't find much in the way of reviews on
this bag set-up with the NITTO F-15 support. Anyone had this bag for a
while and able to comment on any effect on handling, on/off
convenience, in-ride use, etc.?

Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Back to the Friction

2010-10-06 Thread MichaelH
An 11/48 is one heck of a big gear, 118 gi.  It's actually a touch
bigger than a 52/12.  Do you really need such a big gear.  My 44/11
yields 108 gi, the same as a 52/13. I find gi much over 100 have
limited use.  At the other end a 24/28 yields a very very small gear
of 23 gi.  Using such a wide ratios of gears then requires an extra
long cage which will always give less precise shifts with a greater
chance at slipping.  I run a double with 44/11 at the top and 30/28 at
the bottom.  This gives me a range of 108 to 29  With that I run the
new short cage Shimano derailler which is designed specifically for an
11 tooth cog and that wide a range.  The shifting is superb.  On my
touring bike I run a 48/34/26 along with a 12/27 which gives me a too
high 108 and a 26 at the bottom and get very reliable shifting with an
old Centaur medium cage.  I'm sure I would be just as happy with a
46/36/28.

It is true that the good Shimano HG do not give any sound to announce
a shift, but the shape is so successful that virtually every shift is
dead on, even when I run across the entire cassette.  Yesterday I rode
a very hilly 35 miles which required a lot of shifting and a lot of
double shifts.  Not one of them missed its mark.  As I said in my
earlier post the only time I have had trouble was with the low end
Sram cassette & chain that Riv sells.  After about 300 miles I just
tossed them out and returned to an HG cassette and Conex chain.

Michael

On Oct 3, 4:31 pm, Justin August  wrote:
> So it's time to get a new cassette for the Bleriot and I'm in a bit of
> a quandary. Last time I tried friction shifting something was just
> off. It wouldn't hold a gear when I started cranking on the bike going
> up hills or on the flats. Slipping gears drive me bonkers so I dropped
> it and went indexed.
>
> However, I recently moved the 700c wheels from my SOMA Double Cross
> (which the Bleriot replaced) to the Lady's bike. I grabbed an 8 speed
> cassette from Firehouse bikes and she's been shifting with absolutely
> 0 problems with her Suntour power ratchet thumbies.
>
> Since it's time to get a new cassette and I wouldn't mind spending the
> scrilla on some Silvers - should I be worried about friction shifting
> across an 8 speed cassette still? I I would probably roll with an
> 11-28 or 11-30 cassette with 48x36x24 in the front. Last time I was
> using a 9 speed cassette with a single ring up front and I think that
> could have been the problem.
>
> Am I being ridiculous and just order up?
>
> -Justin

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tent advice needed for S24O?

2010-10-06 Thread Rene Sterental
While by no means an expert, I've used the Marmot Aura 2P tent and the
Marmot Aeros 3P tent in my two S24Os this year. 2 people and 3 people
respectively, which means that to an extent, weight can be distributed among
riders. Unless you are going with a 1 person tent and are focused solely on
the weight, the comfort of the extra space and the vertical walled design of
the Marmot Aura 2P are worth the 5 lbs and lower price IMHO.

Then again, if weight is of paramount value (and should it be in this
forum?) and you're camping where trees are present, why not consider a
hammock with its rain fly instead? I've been eyeing them, but so far just
from a distance. They'll be the lightest and lest volume option you can get
provided you can hang them where you're going.

René

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[RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread William
I totally forgot that I have an NOS Sanyo Dynapower that I found at a
garage sale in my parts box.  Now that I have bikes with kickstand
plates, I wonder if it will fit?  That would be pretty slick.

On Oct 6, 7:00 am, Tim McNamara  wrote:
> On Oct 6, 2010, at 8:03 AM, Patrick in VT wrote:
>
> > On Oct 5, 11:38 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> >> Agree: I myself am a convert to dyno lights; IMO, a Shimano dynohub
> >> and an IQ Cyo are a value/performance combination that can't be beat.
>
> > the Sanyo dynohub costs only $40.  relative performance with the
> > schmidt/shimano hub is probably insignificant for the OP's 10 mile
> > commute.   I bet a complete wheel and IQ cyo could be had for around
> > $225.
>
> A dynohub is very convenient; my Schmidt SON (which I bought for PBP  
> in 2003) is very useful- it's always there, just flip a switch.  I  
> have not made the jump to an LED lamp yet.  However, the bike I ride  
> most at night- my All-Rounder- has an old Sanyo Dynapower bottom  
> bracket generator.  Because of the shape of the chainstays, it's not  
> mountable in the normal location and I fabricated a mount on my Nitto  
> mini rack to drive it off the front wheel.  I prefer a BB generator  
> to a sidewall generator because they are easier to align and roll on  
> the part of the tire intended to be rolled upon; there are several of  
> these on the market.  The downside is they are more susceptible to  
> mud and oil than a sidewall generator
>
> An add-on generator like this can work very well and cost less than a  
> dynohub and building up a wheel with it.  In terms of elegance,  
> however, I think the hub option is superior.  It is also not going to  
> slip when riding in the rain, won't get fouled by oil or mud on the  
> road, etc.  I just haven't gotten around to buying a SON 20 yet to  
> build up for the All-Rounder.

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[RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread MichaelH
Could be, but I haven't had a problem.  One Li battery will drive two
lights.  I point one down and one up the road.   Lots of light for me.

michael

On Oct 6, 10:14 am, JoelMatthews  wrote:
> Michael:
>
> I agree the OP is well advised to consider a battery light.
>
> However, for the money I think a Busch Muller Ixon IQ is a better
> choice for on road riding.  I have a DiNotte set and still use the
> tail light.  The DiNotte headlight while quite bright does not have
> the focused head light style beam as the Ixon.
>
> The Ixon is heavier and somewhat larger than the DiNotte.  So if
> mounting is an issue, the DiNotte may be the better choice.
>
> On Oct 5, 5:08 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I don't want to get into a fight with all of the dyno hub fans, but i
> > think for your application - 10 mile rides - they may be overkill.
> > There are cheaper solutions, that will meet your needs.  I commute (15
> > miles each way) with Dinotte lights.  I started out with the AA model,
> > which worked fine, and then upgraded to the LI battery model, when
> > they offered an upgrade sale.  I ride dark rural roads and find this
> > provides me plenty of light on familiar roads up to 25 mph.  This
> > solution is both cheaper and lighter than then  a new dyno hub.  Most
> > of the summer my light sits at home, plugged in and waiting.  This
> > time of year it goes into my Acorn rondeneur bag and gets mounted to a
> > bar in front of my Mark's rack.  I have a couple of bikes and they all
> > use the same lights.  This works great for me.
>
> > Michael
>
> > On Oct 5, 7:44 am, "opa...@gmail.com"  wrote:
>
> > > Looking for light recommendations for use in my ride in the early
> > > morning hours, about a 10 mile ride on dark rural roads.  I am looking
> > > for suggestions by Riv owners for lights that work with their setups.
> > > I am a longtime owner/user of the NightRider "classic", which was ok,
> > > although I never liked the gunky coax-like cabling, but the 3 ton
> > > battery has finally given out and I'm ready for something new,
> > > hopefully lighter in weight, and brighter, if possible...LED's?.  Does
> > > anyone still use generator type lights?
>
> > > Since this is not really RBW related, please email your suggestions
> > > offline!
>
> > > Cheers- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Tent advice needed for S24O?

2010-10-06 Thread MichaelH
I use the 3 person Tarp Tent.  It weighs 32oz, packs petty small, and
does the job.  A lb here a lb there and pretty soon it adds up to real
heavy.

Michael

On Oct 5, 10:05 pm, Jeffrey  wrote:
> I am researching a tent to use mainly for S240's, and I am wond'ring
> if on a short trip (<40-60km each way), if I would really notice the
> difference between a tent that weighs 3 lbs., and one that weighs
> 6lbs? For 3 lbs. I can get an ultralight solo tent, for 6lbs. a
> roomier 2-person. I'd like the space of a 2-person 'cuz its more
> versatile, but not sure the extra weight is worth it?
>
> Any experience/opinions out there?
>
> Thanks -- Jeff

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[RBW] Re: birthday discounts?

2010-10-06 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
I'll be looking for it in March!

On Oct 6, 10:14 am, William  wrote:
> The gist, if memory serves, was that Riv wanted every member's
> birthday, so that when it came up, they could send you some
> promotional consideration.  Whether that was going to be a discount on
> an order placed in the near future, or a little shop credit towards
> your next order, or a little freebie item if you spent such-and-such,
> was not clear (at least not to me).  I'll be much more focused on the
> outcome of this Riv-project come February.
>
> On Oct 6, 10:07 am, "cyclotour...@gmail.com" 
> wrote:
>
> > I vaguely recall the birthday thing.. what's the gist of it?
>
> > And happy trip around the sun!
>
> > On Oct 6, 9:53 am, Seth Vidal  wrote:
>
> > > On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 12:46 PM, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> > > > Hi,
> > > >  I know this sounds like a ridiculous question but I'll ask anyway -
> > > > does anyone know what happened to the birthday discounts that Grant
> > > > had talked about a while back?
>
> > > > I sent in my info and miesha sent me back a note saying she got it 
> > > > but.
>
> > > > well, it's my birthday today. :)
>
> > > > So I was wondering if I had missed it for this year or if there was
> > > > something else?
>
> > > > Maybe I'll call and ask.
>
> > > I called. I talked to Jay. He said he's gonna look into and let me
> > > know. He said it was a bit of mystery to him as well.
>
> > > :)
> > > -sv

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[RBW] Re: birthday discounts?

2010-10-06 Thread William
The gist, if memory serves, was that Riv wanted every member's
birthday, so that when it came up, they could send you some
promotional consideration.  Whether that was going to be a discount on
an order placed in the near future, or a little shop credit towards
your next order, or a little freebie item if you spent such-and-such,
was not clear (at least not to me).  I'll be much more focused on the
outcome of this Riv-project come February.

On Oct 6, 10:07 am, "cyclotour...@gmail.com" 
wrote:
> I vaguely recall the birthday thing.. what's the gist of it?
>
> And happy trip around the sun!
>
> On Oct 6, 9:53 am, Seth Vidal  wrote:
>
> > On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 12:46 PM, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> > > Hi,
> > >  I know this sounds like a ridiculous question but I'll ask anyway -
> > > does anyone know what happened to the birthday discounts that Grant
> > > had talked about a while back?
>
> > > I sent in my info and miesha sent me back a note saying she got it 
> > > but.
>
> > > well, it's my birthday today. :)
>
> > > So I was wondering if I had missed it for this year or if there was
> > > something else?
>
> > > Maybe I'll call and ask.
>
> > I called. I talked to Jay. He said he's gonna look into and let me
> > know. He said it was a bit of mystery to him as well.
>
> > :)
> > -sv
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tent advice needed for S24O?

2010-10-06 Thread Stuart Fletcher
On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 09:43, Reed Kennedy  wrote:
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 8:32 AM, Stuart Fletcher 
> wrote:
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 05:38, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
>> > How many full water bottles does it take to weigh 3 lb?
>>
>> One full 22oz water bottle weighs about 3 pounds.
>>  That puts 3 pounds in perspective.  Or makes you want to carry less
>> water...
>
> Not quite... "A pint's a pound the world around." A pint being 16oz, 22oz of
> water weighs a touch under 1.4lbs.

Oh I'm embarrassed... I used a gallon weighing 8.35lbs and then
converted with 64 fl oz. to the gallon.  Whooops, that's only half a
gallon!  So yeah, I was over by a factor of 2.  Sorry for spreading
misinformation -- and with such a dumb mistake!

Stuart

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[RBW] Re: birthday discounts?

2010-10-06 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
I vaguely recall the birthday thing.. what's the gist of it?

And happy trip around the sun!

On Oct 6, 9:53 am, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 12:46 PM, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> > Hi,
> >  I know this sounds like a ridiculous question but I'll ask anyway -
> > does anyone know what happened to the birthday discounts that Grant
> > had talked about a while back?
>
> > I sent in my info and miesha sent me back a note saying she got it but.
>
> > well, it's my birthday today. :)
>
> > So I was wondering if I had missed it for this year or if there was
> > something else?
>
> > Maybe I'll call and ask.
>
> I called. I talked to Jay. He said he's gonna look into and let me
> know. He said it was a bit of mystery to him as well.
>
> :)
> -sv

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Re: [RBW] Tent advice needed for S24O?

2010-10-06 Thread nathan spindel
Jeff,

I asked a similar question a few weeks ago, and a bunch of people
including some folks at RBW, chimed in: . Be
sure to click the "Newer >" link to read all the responses.

-nathan

On Tue, Oct 5, 2010 at 7:05 PM, Jeffrey  wrote:
> I am researching a tent to use mainly for S240's, and I am wond'ring
> if on a short trip (<40-60km each way), if I would really notice the
> difference between a tent that weighs 3 lbs., and one that weighs
> 6lbs? For 3 lbs. I can get an ultralight solo tent, for 6lbs. a
> roomier 2-person. I'd like the space of a 2-person 'cuz its more
> versatile, but not sure the extra weight is worth it?
>
> Any experience/opinions out there?
>
>
> Thanks -- Jeff
>
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[RBW] Re: birthday discounts?

2010-10-06 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 12:46 PM, Seth Vidal  wrote:
> Hi,
>  I know this sounds like a ridiculous question but I'll ask anyway -
> does anyone know what happened to the birthday discounts that Grant
> had talked about a while back?
>
> I sent in my info and miesha sent me back a note saying she got it but.
>
> well, it's my birthday today. :)
>
> So I was wondering if I had missed it for this year or if there was
> something else?
>
> Maybe I'll call and ask.
>


I called. I talked to Jay. He said he's gonna look into and let me
know. He said it was a bit of mystery to him as well.

:)
-sv

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[RBW] Re: Tent advice needed for S24O?

2010-10-06 Thread Backcountry
Hey Jeff, I know what you mean, wanting a little more room.  Me being
6'5" 240lbs I opted for a MSR fling.  It is a two person single wall
tent, its a older model, I think I scooped mine on the bay for under
$120, and the price tag said $249.00.  Its a two person and quite a
bit of room and it weighs 4lbs.  Its a great tent, it can be a free
standing or a peg out tent, and if you choose the peg out and leave
one of the poles at home, its 3lbs!

Hope this helps.  I have owned about 7 tents and this is favorite thus
far!

-Chris

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Re: [RBW] birthday discounts?

2010-10-06 Thread Jon Grant
Happy birthday, Seth!

I sent in my info, too, but I never got confirmation of receipt. My
birthday¹s in a couple of weeks.

--
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Illustration + Information Graphics
Austin, Texas
jgr...@papagrant.com
512-284-9599

Drawings ‹ all sorts



From: Seth Vidal 
Reply-To: 
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 12:46:07 -0400
To: 
Subject: [RBW] birthday discounts?

Hi,
 I know this sounds like a ridiculous question but I'll ask anyway -
does anyone know what happened to the birthday discounts that Grant
had talked about a while back?

I sent in my info and miesha sent me back a note saying she got it but.

well, it's my birthday today. :)

So I was wondering if I had missed it for this year or if there was
something else?

Maybe I'll call and ask.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: This morning's ride.

2010-10-06 Thread Powderpiggy
Wow, Great that you were able to try them.  I live in WA and tried to
find one in Seattle to try, but sadly there were none at the time so I
just trusted that it would be wonderful and it is.   Weird about the
52, very counterintuitive.  I am 5'3" also, making the 52 the largest
bike I have ridden (my road bike - not even close to a Riv) is
49cm...and the 52 Betty/Yves feels large to me, especially at first.
But its nice to know that the sizes are so versatile.  It is tons of
fun, and while a huge investment for me, is sooo worth it.   You will
love yours

On Oct 5, 6:51 pm, grrlyrida  wrote:
> I know how you feel. I felt like a kid again on the Betty. I went to
> the RBW in August to try one out. Surprisingly the 49 and 58 felt
> great, while I felt uncomfortable on the 52 and I'm only 5'3. Go
> figure. Grant also recommended the "go big" 58cm.
>
> Lucky girl. Congrats on your new bike, I hope to join you with a new
> Betty in a few months.
>
> Ness
>
> On Oct 4, 10:38 pm, Powderpiggy  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Well it just sort of happened.   From the get go I really liked the
> > black color, but I did not like that it said "the international man's
> > mixte" and I did not like that it cost $200 dollars more than the
> > Betty Foyso the plan was for a Betty.  I did like the blue too.
> > But, I took s long in deciding to commit and order it that by the
> > time I was ready to take the plunge RBW was out of Betty's in my size
> > (52 cm), I probably could have fit at 49 cm Betty but I really wanted
> > the 650 B wheels.   They were expecting more Betty's in August but
> > sadly no 52 cm's.   And were unsure when they would get them in 52
> > cm.    So I went for the Yves Gomez.   And I am really happy with.  I
> > do like the black better (much better actually) and I can live with
> > the slogan on the label - its really small and no one really sees
> > it.
>
> > It is s much fun to ride I just can't stay off of it.  I haven't
> > felt like this about a bike, in well, forever.
>
> > Thanks for asking,
>
> > Keely
>
> > On Oct 4, 8:21 pm, grrlyrida  wrote:
>
> > > Gorgeous scenery!
>
> > > Why did you decide on the Yves instead of the Betty? What was the
> > > deciding factors?
>
> > > Ness
>
> > > On Oct 3, 12:37 pm, Powderpiggy  wrote:
>
> > > > Hey, Just wanted to thank everyone that gave me advice on 'upgrades'
> > > > for a Betty Foy.   I wound up  not actually really upgrading
> > > > anything.   As much as I would have loved the Phil Wood hubs, I just
> > > > couldn't justify it.
>
> > > > Anyways, the Betty Foy turned into an Yves Gomez which I ordered from
> > > > RBW in July and it arrived in late August.   I have been negligent in
> > > > posting pics from my travels with Yves but thought I would throw up a
> > > > few from this morning's ride.  I woke up early while everyone else was
> > > > still sleeping and snuck out of the house.   It was fabulous.
>
> > > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/54500...@n05/sets/72157625087671694/

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[RBW] Re: FS Noodle Bar 44 Complete Cockpit

2010-10-06 Thread jason
Sold!

On Oct 5, 10:28 pm, jason  wrote:
> Hi there.  This is a complete used cockpit with the following
> components:
>
> 44cm Noodle Bar 
> $70http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-noodle-bar/16-113
>
> Shimano Tiagra Levers 
> $55http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/shimano-tiagra-levers/15-091
>
> Tektro RL720 Interupptor Levers $35
> Similar to 
> these:http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/interrupteur-levers/15-109
> and made for Canti's
>
> Shimano Dura Ace 9-Speed Bar-End Shifters 
> $92http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/shimano-bar-end-shifters/17-098
>
> Nitto DirtDrop  10cm 
> $55http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-dirtdrop/16-100
> This part unfortunately has major scratches from when it was removed
> from the bike.
>
> It has nice creme colored tape wrapped complete with twine at the
> end!
> This is literally all together, just needs new cables.
>
> Total if you were to buy all of these new from is $307.
>
> I will sell this for $150 with free shipping to anywhere in the CONTUS
> with paypal payment.  Please email me privately if you're interested!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tent advice needed for S24O?

2010-10-06 Thread Reed Kennedy
On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 8:32 AM, Stuart Fletcher
wrote:

> On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 05:38, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> > How many full water bottles does it take to weigh 3 lb?
>
> Oh, me, call on me!  One full 22oz water bottle weighs about 3 pounds.
>  That puts 3 pounds in perspective.  Or makes you want to carry less
> water...
>

Not quite... "A pint's a pound the world around." A pint being 16oz, 22oz of
water weighs a touch under 1.4lbs.

My largest water bottle weighs just under 3oz. It's made by Trek, and I
believe it's a 26oz model.

And finally, that bottle filled with water weighed 1.75lbs.

All in all, I'd say it takes about two full water bottles weigh 3lbs. They
might weigh just a bit more, though.

Cheers,
Reed

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Re: [RBW] birthday discounts?

2010-10-06 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Ken Mattina  wrote:
> Happy birthday Seth.  It's my birthday too!
>
> Happy birthday to us!
>
>

indeed!
Happy birthday to you.

-sv

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Re: [RBW] birthday discounts?

2010-10-06 Thread Ken Mattina
Happy birthday Seth.  It's my birthday too!

Happy birthday to us!

Ken

On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 9:46 AM, Seth Vidal  wrote:

> Hi,
>  I know this sounds like a ridiculous question but I'll ask anyway -
> does anyone know what happened to the birthday discounts that Grant
> had talked about a while back?
>
> I sent in my info and miesha sent me back a note saying she got it but.
>
> well, it's my birthday today. :)
>
> So I was wondering if I had missed it for this year or if there was
> something else?
>
> Maybe I'll call and ask.
>
> -sv
>
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Where did my energy go?
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Where did my hair go?

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[RBW] birthday discounts?

2010-10-06 Thread Seth Vidal
Hi,
 I know this sounds like a ridiculous question but I'll ask anyway -
does anyone know what happened to the birthday discounts that Grant
had talked about a while back?

I sent in my info and miesha sent me back a note saying she got it but.

well, it's my birthday today. :)

So I was wondering if I had missed it for this year or if there was
something else?

Maybe I'll call and ask.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: Tent advice needed for S24O?

2010-10-06 Thread Anne
+1 on the Big Agnes tents.

On Oct 5, 10:05 pm, Jeffrey  wrote:
> I am researching a tent to use mainly for S240's, and I am wond'ring
> if on a short trip (<40-60km each way), if I would really notice the
> difference between a tent that weighs 3 lbs., and one that weighs
> 6lbs? For 3 lbs. I can get an ultralight solo tent, for 6lbs. a
> roomier 2-person. I'd like the space of a 2-person 'cuz its more
> versatile, but not sure the extra weight is worth it?
>
> Any experience/opinions out there?
>
> Thanks -- Jeff

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[RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread Peter Andrews
I use the Dinotte 200L for my early morning commute (+/- 30min.),
mounted on my mustache bars by the stem, above a medium Wald basket.
It works perfectly.  One thing I'd like to mention about the Dinotte
is its ingenious and beautifully simple mounting system.  It goes on
and stays put, and is just as easy to remove.  It mounts over the
twine (which are wrapped to the sleave) on my bars without any issue.
No screws, no knobs, just a simple rubber ring.  Just my 2 cents...

Peter



On Oct 6, 7:14 am, JoelMatthews  wrote:
> Michael:
>
> I agree the OP is well advised to consider a battery light.
>
> However, for the money I think a Busch Muller Ixon IQ is a better
> choice for on road riding.  I have a DiNotte set and still use the
> tail light.  The DiNotte headlight while quite bright does not have
> the focused head light style beam as the Ixon.
>
> The Ixon is heavier and somewhat larger than the DiNotte.  So if
> mounting is an issue, the DiNotte may be the better choice.
>
> On Oct 5, 5:08 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
>
>
>
> > I don't want to get into a fight with all of the dyno hub fans, but i
> > think for your application - 10 mile rides - they may be overkill.
> > There are cheaper solutions, that will meet your needs.  I commute (15
> > miles each way) with Dinotte lights.  I started out with the AA model,
> > which worked fine, and then upgraded to the LI battery model, when
> > they offered an upgrade sale.  I ride dark rural roads and find this
> > provides me plenty of light on familiar roads up to 25 mph.  This
> > solution is both cheaper and lighter than then  a new dyno hub.  Most
> > of the summer my light sits at home, plugged in and waiting.  This
> > time of year it goes into my Acorn rondeneur bag and gets mounted to a
> > bar in front of my Mark's rack.  I have a couple of bikes and they all
> > use the same lights.  This works great for me.
>
> > Michael
>
> > On Oct 5, 7:44 am, "opa...@gmail.com"  wrote:
>
> > > Looking for light recommendations for use in my ride in the early
> > > morning hours, about a 10 mile ride on dark rural roads.  I am looking
> > > for suggestions by Riv owners for lights that work with their setups.
> > > I am a longtime owner/user of the NightRider "classic", which was ok,
> > > although I never liked the gunky coax-like cabling, but the 3 ton
> > > battery has finally given out and I'm ready for something new,
> > > hopefully lighter in weight, and brighter, if possible...LED's?.  Does
> > > anyone still use generator type lights?
>
> > > Since this is not really RBW related, please email your suggestions
> > > offline!
>
> > > Cheers- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tent advice needed for S24O?

2010-10-06 Thread Stuart Fletcher
On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 05:38, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> How many full water bottles does it take to weigh 3 lb?

Oh, me, call on me!  One full 22oz water bottle weighs about 3 pounds.
 That puts 3 pounds in perspective.  Or makes you want to carry less
water...

Where bicycle camping is concerned, I feel having less bulk is almost
more important than having less weight.  Three more pounds isn't going
to break me, but there's a strict limit on what I can fit in my bags.
But lately I've been camping with a Nelson Longflap and a medium sized
Wald basket, so YMMV on that front.

If you're willing to go tarp-style, the Black Diamond Megamid was
mentioned in a recent discussion.  It's a 4 person & floorless it's
sub 3 lbs (a floor is available separately).  Someone reported he can
have his bike and all gear in the shelter -- kinda neat.  Link:
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/mountain/shelters/mega-light

There are so many tents out there -- get the heavier 2 person one you
think you'll be happier with and see how it works.  If you find it's
too heavy (or too bulky) get rid of it and try something else.  That's
my advice.

Stuart Fletcher
Seattle, WA

PS/btw: I use a Tarptent (tarptent.com) and love it.  It's single wall
which I take it some people don't like, but I've not had a bad
experience with mine.

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Re: [RBW] Re: perennial pants issue

2010-10-06 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Not mine; my home made knickers get heavy use during the cold months
and, so far, except for some shininess there is no sign of wear after
three seasons, for two of them.

I use top quality wool trousers for conversion.

On Tue, Oct 5, 2010 at 6:54 PM, Tim McNamara  wrote:
> I find wool to have inadequate abrasion resistance for shorts, tights and
> trousers for cycling.  They wear through in embarrassing places quickly
> (sometimes within 2-3 rides).
>
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Re: [RBW] FS:58cm Rambouillet,almost new Phil Wood wheelset 7 freewheel etc.

2010-10-06 Thread Timothy Whalen
Hobie,
Did you sell my old Ram?

Just thinking...
Tim

On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 4:21 PM, hobie  wrote:

> I'm selling my 58cm orange Rambouillett that I picked up from another
> Riv owner on this site around Feb. of this year. I'm moving into a
> much smaller place and can't fit 5 bikes,wife and 5 year old. It is
> not completely built up and will need to be finished.The majority of
> the parts are here.They are as follows:
>
> 1-58cm Rambouillet,fork,Shimano Ultergra Headset
> 2-Phil Wood wheelset 130mm rear spacing 7 speed freewheel w. Like new
> Ird Freewheel 32t big cog,laced to Velocity Dyad rims 3 cross.Bought
> the wheelset new, built by Bikeman in Maine around Feb.2010.Very low
> miles on the wheels and Freewheel.
> 3-Salsa silver skewers
> 4-2 Panaracer Pasela Compe folding 700x35c tires,tubes and rim tape.
> Lots of miles left
> 5-2 Panaracer Pasela torguard wire bead tires.Lots a miles left also
> 6-Ird Sidepull brakes model RC 450
> 7-Sugino XD 600 48/36/26 triple crank 170mm bought new also in Feb.
> 2010
> 8-MSS GR9 platform pedals
> 9-Specialized (Nitto Crystal Fellow) 27.2 seatpost,cut down but still
> sufficient amount of post left.
> 10-Nitto Periscopa 8cm stem 25.4
> 11-Soma Moustache handlebar
> 12-Shimano 105 Aero Brake levers
> 13-Selle Antomica W.S. saddle brown
> 14-Shimano Bar end shifters
> 15-New Echelon Brown swirl cork handlebar tape.
> 16-Suntour XC expert rear derailer
> 17-Suntour triple X1 front derailer
> 18-Ird Bottom Bracket
>
> The frame does have some scratches and scuffs. It still has a nice
> luster and it turns heads where ever I have ridden it. The previous
> owner had it framed saved as I did also. I think the only parts that
> are missing are the chain, and cables.This bike rides and climbs
> beautifully!!!. I have a 58cm 650b Saluki that is more versatile for
> the type of riding I do. I'm going to miss this ride.. Price is
> $1,800.00  which includes shipping and Paypal charges. Email me and I
> can send photos.
>
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[RBW] Re: wide-Q road crankset?

2010-10-06 Thread Michael_S
The Stronglight does have one advantage over the Sugino... they use a
higher quality Stronglight chainrings.  The arms are the same.
I used a 110mm BB on mine and it worked great. It's actually for sale
on EBAY right now as I've switched to a NOS Campy triple.

~Mike~

On Oct 6, 7:15 am, Garth  wrote:
> Fai, the Impacts that are the re-badged Sugino XD2's obviously use the
> same BB.  The thing is, you need to know the proportions of the BB's
> to understand what a different BB may or may not do. The 107 and
> 110(111.5 actual) have the same DS spindle distance. Use some spacers
> to tweak the chainline. The 113 adds 2.5mm to the DS only.
>
> CRS also sells some Impact triples that are not Sugino's. confusing as
> heck. These take a 115mm bb for a 45mm chainline.

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[RBW] Re: This morning's ride.

2010-10-06 Thread JoelMatthews
Your bike turned out quite nice.  The pictures are lovely.

On Oct 3, 2:37 pm, Powderpiggy  wrote:
> Hey, Just wanted to thank everyone that gave me advice on 'upgrades'
> for a Betty Foy.   I wound up  not actually really upgrading
> anything.   As much as I would have loved the Phil Wood hubs, I just
> couldn't justify it.
>
> Anyways, the Betty Foy turned into an Yves Gomez which I ordered from
> RBW in July and it arrived in late August.   I have been negligent in
> posting pics from my travels with Yves but thought I would throw up a
> few from this morning's ride.  I woke up early while everyone else was
> still sleeping and snuck out of the house.   It was fabulous.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/54500...@n05/sets/72157625087671694/

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[RBW] Re: wide-Q road crankset?

2010-10-06 Thread Garth
Fai, the Impacts that are the re-badged Sugino XD2's obviously use the
same BB.  The thing is, you need to know the proportions of the BB's
to understand what a different BB may or may not do. The 107 and
110(111.5 actual) have the same DS spindle distance. Use some spacers
to tweak the chainline. The 113 adds 2.5mm to the DS only.

CRS also sells some Impact triples that are not Sugino's. confusing as
heck. These take a 115mm bb for a 45mm chainline.

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[RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread JoelMatthews
Michael:

I agree the OP is well advised to consider a battery light.

However, for the money I think a Busch Muller Ixon IQ is a better
choice for on road riding.  I have a DiNotte set and still use the
tail light.  The DiNotte headlight while quite bright does not have
the focused head light style beam as the Ixon.

The Ixon is heavier and somewhat larger than the DiNotte.  So if
mounting is an issue, the DiNotte may be the better choice.

On Oct 5, 5:08 pm, MichaelH  wrote:
> I don't want to get into a fight with all of the dyno hub fans, but i
> think for your application - 10 mile rides - they may be overkill.
> There are cheaper solutions, that will meet your needs.  I commute (15
> miles each way) with Dinotte lights.  I started out with the AA model,
> which worked fine, and then upgraded to the LI battery model, when
> they offered an upgrade sale.  I ride dark rural roads and find this
> provides me plenty of light on familiar roads up to 25 mph.  This
> solution is both cheaper and lighter than then  a new dyno hub.  Most
> of the summer my light sits at home, plugged in and waiting.  This
> time of year it goes into my Acorn rondeneur bag and gets mounted to a
> bar in front of my Mark's rack.  I have a couple of bikes and they all
> use the same lights.  This works great for me.
>
> Michael
>
> On Oct 5, 7:44 am, "opa...@gmail.com"  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Looking for light recommendations for use in my ride in the early
> > morning hours, about a 10 mile ride on dark rural roads.  I am looking
> > for suggestions by Riv owners for lights that work with their setups.
> > I am a longtime owner/user of the NightRider "classic", which was ok,
> > although I never liked the gunky coax-like cabling, but the 3 ton
> > battery has finally given out and I'm ready for something new,
> > hopefully lighter in weight, and brighter, if possible...LED's?.  Does
> > anyone still use generator type lights?
>
> > Since this is not really RBW related, please email your suggestions
> > offline!
>
> > Cheers- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread Tim McNamara


On Oct 6, 2010, at 8:03 AM, Patrick in VT wrote:


On Oct 5, 11:38 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:

Agree: I myself am a convert to dyno lights; IMO, a Shimano dynohub
and an IQ Cyo are a value/performance combination that can't be beat.


the Sanyo dynohub costs only $40.  relative performance with the
schmidt/shimano hub is probably insignificant for the OP's 10 mile
commute.   I bet a complete wheel and IQ cyo could be had for around
$225.


A dynohub is very convenient; my Schmidt SON (which I bought for PBP  
in 2003) is very useful- it's always there, just flip a switch.  I  
have not made the jump to an LED lamp yet.  However, the bike I ride  
most at night- my All-Rounder- has an old Sanyo Dynapower bottom  
bracket generator.  Because of the shape of the chainstays, it's not  
mountable in the normal location and I fabricated a mount on my Nitto  
mini rack to drive it off the front wheel.  I prefer a BB generator  
to a sidewall generator because they are easier to align and roll on  
the part of the tire intended to be rolled upon; there are several of  
these on the market.  The downside is they are more susceptible to  
mud and oil than a sidewall generator


An add-on generator like this can work very well and cost less than a  
dynohub and building up a wheel with it.  In terms of elegance,  
however, I think the hub option is superior.  It is also not going to  
slip when riding in the rain, won't get fouled by oil or mud on the  
road, etc.  I just haven't gotten around to buying a SON 20 yet to  
build up for the All-Rounder.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread Seth Vidal
On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 9:03 AM, Patrick in VT  wrote:
>
>
> On Oct 5, 11:38 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>> Agree: I myself am a convert to dyno lights; IMO, a Shimano dynohub
>> and an IQ Cyo are a value/performance combination that can't be beat.
>
> the Sanyo dynohub costs only $40.  relative performance with the
> schmidt/shimano hub is probably insignificant for the OP's 10 mile
> commute.   I bet a complete wheel and IQ cyo could be had for around
> $225.
>

Long leaf cycles has the sanyo built into a velocity twin hollow for $112

The cyo for $104

That's $216 + shipping.

You can also get the
http://www.longleafbicycles.com/products/dynohubs-and-lighting/dynamo-headlights/busch-muller-lyt/

lyt plus which supposedly has good output for the price - at $47

you can get a whole kit for $159 + shipping

sounds like a deal.

-sv

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[RBW] Re: Tent advice needed for S24O?

2010-10-06 Thread cm
Big Agnes Fly Creek or Seedhouse are great tents

Cheers,
cm

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[RBW] Re: Lights

2010-10-06 Thread Patrick in VT


On Oct 5, 11:38 am, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> Agree: I myself am a convert to dyno lights; IMO, a Shimano dynohub
> and an IQ Cyo are a value/performance combination that can't be beat.

the Sanyo dynohub costs only $40.  relative performance with the
schmidt/shimano hub is probably insignificant for the OP's 10 mile
commute.   I bet a complete wheel and IQ cyo could be had for around
$225.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tent advice needed for S24O?

2010-10-06 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-10-06 at 05:12 -0700, Gary wrote:
> Can't really determine if 3lbs will make or break a ride not knowing
> what other gear your carrying. But lighter usually makes for an easier
> ride I've found. 

How many full water bottles does it take to weigh 3 lb?



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[RBW] Re: Tent advice needed for S24O?

2010-10-06 Thread Gary
Jeff,
Can't really determine if 3lbs will make or break a ride not knowing
what other gear your carrying. But lighter usually makes for an easier
ride I've found. Todays tents are light years ahead of tents just 5
years ago. I have a number of great tents but the one that I've been
using for the last 3 years has been excellent, weighs 2lbs 12oz, it's
free standing, 2 man with a full fly and vest. It's here:
http://www.bigagnes.com/Products/Detail/Tent/SeedhouseSL2
But as progress is always moving they now have a lighter version that
has almost the same configuration but weighs 2lbs 2oz. It's here:
http://www.bigagnes.com/Products/Detail/Tent/FlyCreekUL2 .

There are others out there. I've been very happy with durability, size
(I'm 6'4"), and vestibule with the Seed House SL2. Oh yeah and weight
too.

Fast and light beats slow and heavy and I'm always searching.
Gary

On Oct 5, 7:05 pm, Jeffrey  wrote:
> I am researching a tent to use mainly for S240's, and I am wond'ring
> if on a short trip (<40-60km each way), if I would really notice the
> difference between a tent that weighs 3 lbs., and one that weighs
> 6lbs? For 3 lbs. I can get an ultralight solo tent, for 6lbs. a
> roomier 2-person. I'd like the space of a 2-person 'cuz its more
> versatile, but not sure the extra weight is worth it?
>
> Any experience/opinions out there?
>
> Thanks -- Jeff

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Re: [RBW] Re: Back to the Friction

2010-10-06 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Wed, 2010-10-06 at 04:34 -0700, MichaelH wrote:
> Friction shifting does not require any extraordinary skill and
> properly set up works perfectly.  I would recommend you get the best
> cassette you can afford.  I run the HG with no problems, but when I
> tried an inexpensive Sram, I had a lot of problems. I would also
> recommend a good chain, they shift better and last longer.  I use the
> Conex 908.  I have no ghost shifting at all with Silver DT shifters.
> I do occasionally experience this with my Silver BEs, but it always
> just requires a slight tightening of the D ring, which can easily be
> done on the fly.  You have nothing to loose but that clicking sound
> and the real hassle of a mistuned click shifter.

Friction shifting can be touchy with Hyperglide.  Hyperglide ramps are
made in such a way as to facilitate the chain moving from one sprocket
to the next, by design making it possible for the chain to be on two
sprockets at once without chattering.  As a result there is little to no
audible feedback to let you know when you aren't fully centered on a
sprocket.   You can downshift in anticipation of a stop at a traffic
light, think you have successfully completed the shift, stop at the
light, and when you stand on the pedal to start up, auto-upshift with a
BAM!  That's the "ghost shifting" you read about, not "slippage" as you
would expect.

Exactly the ghost shifting I described above drove me crazy when I tried
it with 8 speed.  I then tried it with 7 speed and found I could avoid
those problems.  I think the extra spacing between the 7 speed sprockets
is just enough to let me center the chain to avoid these unintentional
upshifts.

Incidentally, I find the D ring on the Sun Tour Sprints needs to be
screwed down much tighter than on any pure friction shifter I ever tried
in the past: if you used that much tension on a regular friction shifter
you'd be unable to move the lever.



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[RBW] Re: Back to the Friction

2010-10-06 Thread MichaelH
Friction shifting does not require any extraordinary skill and
properly set up works perfectly.  I would recommend you get the best
cassette you can afford.  I run the HG with no problems, but when I
tried an inexpensive Sram, I had a lot of problems. I would also
recommend a good chain, they shift better and last longer.  I use the
Conex 908.  I have no ghost shifting at all with Silver DT shifters.
I do occasionally experience this with my Silver BEs, but it always
just requires a slight tightening of the D ring, which can easily be
done on the fly.  You have nothing to loose but that clicking sound
and the real hassle of a mistuned click shifter.

Michael

On Oct 3, 4:31 pm, Justin August  wrote:
> So it's time to get a new cassette for the Bleriot and I'm in a bit of
> a quandary. Last time I tried friction shifting something was just
> off. It wouldn't hold a gear when I started cranking on the bike going
> up hills or on the flats. Slipping gears drive me bonkers so I dropped
> it and went indexed.
>
> However, I recently moved the 700c wheels from my SOMA Double Cross
> (which the Bleriot replaced) to the Lady's bike. I grabbed an 8 speed
> cassette from Firehouse bikes and she's been shifting with absolutely
> 0 problems with her Suntour power ratchet thumbies.
>
> Since it's time to get a new cassette and I wouldn't mind spending the
> scrilla on some Silvers - should I be worried about friction shifting
> across an 8 speed cassette still? I I would probably roll with an
> 11-28 or 11-30 cassette with 48x36x24 in the front. Last time I was
> using a 9 speed cassette with a single ring up front and I think that
> could have been the problem.
>
> Am I being ridiculous and just order up?
>
> -Justin

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[RBW] Re: Back to the Friction

2010-10-06 Thread Angus
Justin,

I friction shift with 6, 7 and 8 speed rear clusters with Silver,
Simplex Retro-frtiction and Suntour Bar Cons shifters.

If the Silver's are jumping gears they have probably loosened,
applying a bit of bees was to the threads seems to help.

Angus

On Oct 3, 3:31 pm, Justin August  wrote:
> So it's time to get a new cassette for the Bleriot and I'm in a bit of
> a quandary. Last time I tried friction shifting something was just
> off. It wouldn't hold a gear when I started cranking on the bike going
> up hills or on the flats. Slipping gears drive me bonkers so I dropped
> it and went indexed.
>
> However, I recently moved the 700c wheels from my SOMA Double Cross
> (which the Bleriot replaced) to the Lady's bike. I grabbed an 8 speed
> cassette from Firehouse bikes and she's been shifting with absolutely
> 0 problems with her Suntour power ratchet thumbies.
>
> Since it's time to get a new cassette and I wouldn't mind spending the
> scrilla on some Silvers - should I be worried about friction shifting
> across an 8 speed cassette still? I I would probably roll with an
> 11-28 or 11-30 cassette with 48x36x24 in the front. Last time I was
> using a 9 speed cassette with a single ring up front and I think that
> could have been the problem.
>
> Am I being ridiculous and just order up?
>
> -Justin

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