On Wed, 2010-10-06 at 04:34 -0700, MichaelH wrote:
> Friction shifting does not require any extraordinary skill and
> properly set up works perfectly.  I would recommend you get the best
> cassette you can afford.  I run the HG with no problems, but when I
> tried an inexpensive Sram, I had a lot of problems. I would also
> recommend a good chain, they shift better and last longer.  I use the
> Conex 908.  I have no ghost shifting at all with Silver DT shifters.
> I do occasionally experience this with my Silver BEs, but it always
> just requires a slight tightening of the D ring, which can easily be
> done on the fly.  You have nothing to loose but that clicking sound
> and the real hassle of a mistuned click shifter.

Friction shifting can be touchy with Hyperglide.  Hyperglide ramps are
made in such a way as to facilitate the chain moving from one sprocket
to the next, by design making it possible for the chain to be on two
sprockets at once without chattering.  As a result there is little to no
audible feedback to let you know when you aren't fully centered on a
sprocket.   You can downshift in anticipation of a stop at a traffic
light, think you have successfully completed the shift, stop at the
light, and when you stand on the pedal to start up, auto-upshift with a
BAM!  That's the "ghost shifting" you read about, not "slippage" as you
would expect.

Exactly the ghost shifting I described above drove me crazy when I tried
it with 8 speed.  I then tried it with 7 speed and found I could avoid
those problems.  I think the extra spacing between the 7 speed sprockets
is just enough to let me center the chain to avoid these unintentional
upshifts.

Incidentally, I find the D ring on the Sun Tour Sprints needs to be
screwed down much tighter than on any pure friction shifter I ever tried
in the past: if you used that much tension on a regular friction shifter
you'd be unable to move the lever.



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