[RBW] Updated 'Beam

[cyclotourist]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/15874405780/

Over the last few months, I've put on new fenders (thanks John!),
cranks (thanks Philip!), pedals (thanks David!), and kickstand (thanks
Rivendell!). The rack and basket were taken from another bike, and the
bell was purchased on ebay. It's a damn fine bike (thanks Ron!) that I
ride just about everywhere around town. Taking the kids to school,
picking up CSA share, books to/from the library, going out to
lunch/movies... absolutely everywhere I can!

So I'm stoked that it's finally build up and personalized for my
heeds. It's a great bike!
-- 
Cheers,
David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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[RBW] Re: Point Reyes S24O-ish 26 December

[Mark Guglielmana]

Say, that sounds like a dandy idea! I think I'll fly down from Portlandia 
and bring the clown bike 
,
 
if you don't mind. It's not very Riv-ish, barely bike-ish, but it is 
fly-ish, which is how it'll get from PDX to your neck of the woods. 

Folks, we actually planned this last winter, but Andrew got sick, and just 
as I was about to go solo, one of my school aged daughters had a 
concussion, Fast forward 10 months or so, what could go wrong? Tempting Mr. 
Murphy with that statement...

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Re: [RBW] Re: Does anyone have a rack mount, battery powered tail light to sell or trade?

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

I lost 2 or 3 rack mounted blinkies with that adaptor. I now use a the battery 
powered Toplight that Riv sells combined with a blinkie clipped to the loop of 
my saddlebag.

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Re: [RBW] shimano cx-70 canti question

[Aaron Young]

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/dia-compe-cable-stop-with-quick-release.html

Here's another option that adds a quick release function to the brake
line.  I have one of these installed on a bike with center pulls and it
works great.  I like non-aero brakes so the Tektro levers aren't my first
choice.

BTW, I just bought the CX-70's for the same reason as you, Drew.  I'm glad
you brought this up as I imagine I will have the same problem you
mentioned.  I think I will buy one of these dia compe cable stops right now
in anticipation.

Can anyone who is actively using these brakes speak to how well they work?
Usually, if Riv is selling something I just trust that it will work well
enough.  I'm expecting the same from these CX-70's but I read an Amazon
review saying skip 'em and go for the cheaper Tektro 720's.  Can anyone
weigh in?  Thanks.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR




On Fri Dec 19 2014 at 7:48:55 PM Dan McNamara  wrote:

> I have had good luck using the release on Tektro brakes with the CX-70.
> Not sure I could get the straddle off without that slack.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> On Dec 19, 2014, at 6:33 PM, drew beckmeyer 
> wrote:
>
> ok, i feel like this is going to end with me missing something obvious. i
> just got the cx-70 brakes to avoid having to deflate/squeeze my 700x50
> tires everytime i want to take the wheels off. im not so new to cantilever
> brakes but somewhat new to big tires that prevent easy on and off.
>
> riv's site sort of implies that they open up easy enough and this video
> shows a guy doing it
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rA7f-v3Rmts (skip to 1:04)
> here is the description and pics of it opened up
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc3.htm
>
> in my reality, when set up and adjusted correctly, it doesnt seem possible
> to slip the hanger cable from the brake. there isnt enough slack to get the
> cable to slide out of that little slot, it seems. if the brakes are super
> wide, i can get it to go, but it has to be uncomfortably far from the rim.
> adjusting the inline barrel to it's slackest doesnt really work either.
>
> so... am i missing something, and if so, what?  id like to avoid deflating
> or loosening the other side of the cable hanger and then readjusting the
> brakes all over again. i couldve done that with the old brakes.
>
> many thanks
>
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[RBW] Re: Bay Area RBW meetup group? ride or camping?

[BSWP]

Amit, Amtrak gets you to Berkeley/Emeryville, and a local ride could easily 
aim back up toward Martinez to see you back on the train.

And for us EAstBay folks, Amtrak is quick to Sacto, for an overnight to 
Folsom (if there's any water left).

Sounds we'll have to have reciprocal rides.

- Andrew, Berkeley

On Friday, December 19, 2014 7:35:33 PM UTC-8, Amit Singh wrote:
>
> I'm in. Living in Sacramento now, would be great doing a monthly meet up. 
> Re: riding here - it's a great trip taking the American River Bike Trail to 
> Folsom Lake for an overnight. 
>
> On Thursday, 18 December 2014 15:07:23 UTC-8, Ryan Christbaum wrote:
>>
>> I might also jump in on this sort of riding.  I've been meaning to get 
>>> back out riding on weekends.
>>>
>>  
>>
>>> Do yourselves a favor and stay off the trails in the lower part of 
>>> Tilden Park if you get the itch to get dirty (Curran Trail, Meadows Canyon 
>>> and Wildcat Gorge, specifically.)  Heavy clay soil means you won't get far 
>>> before you're walking.  The upper part like Seaview is okay, but sticking 
>>> to pavement might be the best option considering the last few weeks.
>>>
>>  
>> -Ryan 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Drill brake bridge for fender?

[ted]

Thanks Takashi, that looks kinda neat.
I gather it replaces the spacer that normally goes on the brake bolt on the 
back side of the bridge. Do you know how thick it is?
I suspect the only way to get one would be special order through a LBS. 

On Friday, December 19, 2014 7:58:01 PM UTC-8, Takashi wrote:
>
> Honjo makes this small thing that lets you mount rear fender on a bike 
> without threaded rear brake bridge:
>
> http://www.euroasiaimports.com/productcart/pc/Honjo-Fender-Attatchment-Pivot-for-Narrow-Space-2291p23812.htm
>
> Takashi
>
>
> 2014年12月20日土曜日 8時21分31秒 UTC+9 ted:
>>
>> Sometimes rear brake bridges have a threaded hole on the bottom for 
>> attaching a fender.
>> My AHH brake bridge has a squarish section in the center that is flat 
>> where a fender bolt might go.
>> Would just drilling and taping that face work or should something like a 
>> water bottle mount be brazed in if I want to bolt a fender directly to the 
>> bridge?
>> Anybody know?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Drill brake bridge for fender?

[Takashi]

Honjo makes this small thing that lets you mount rear fender on a bike 
without threaded rear brake bridge:
http://www.euroasiaimports.com/productcart/pc/Honjo-Fender-Attatchment-Pivot-for-Narrow-Space-2291p23812.htm

Takashi


2014年12月20日土曜日 8時21分31秒 UTC+9 ted:
>
> Sometimes rear brake bridges have a threaded hole on the bottom for 
> attaching a fender.
> My AHH brake bridge has a squarish section in the center that is flat 
> where a fender bolt might go.
> Would just drilling and taping that face work or should something like a 
> water bottle mount be brazed in if I want to bolt a fender directly to the 
> bridge?
> Anybody know?
>

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Re: [RBW] shimano cx-70 canti question

[Dan McNamara]

I have had good luck using the release on Tektro brakes with the CX-70. Not 
sure I could get the straddle off without that slack. 

Dan



> On Dec 19, 2014, at 6:33 PM, drew beckmeyer  wrote:
> 
> ok, i feel like this is going to end with me missing something obvious. i 
> just got the cx-70 brakes to avoid having to deflate/squeeze my 700x50 tires 
> everytime i want to take the wheels off. im not so new to cantilever brakes 
> but somewhat new to big tires that prevent easy on and off. 
> 
> riv's site sort of implies that they open up easy enough and this video shows 
> a guy doing it
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rA7f-v3Rmts (skip to 1:04)  
> here is the description and pics of it opened up
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc3.htm
> 
> in my reality, when set up and adjusted correctly, it doesnt seem possible to 
> slip the hanger cable from the brake. there isnt enough slack to get the 
> cable to slide out of that little slot, it seems. if the brakes are super 
> wide, i can get it to go, but it has to be uncomfortably far from the rim. 
> adjusting the inline barrel to it's slackest doesnt really work either. 
> 
> so... am i missing something, and if so, what?  id like to avoid deflating or 
> loosening the other side of the cable hanger and then readjusting the brakes 
> all over again. i couldve done that with the old brakes.
> 
> many thanks
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Re: [RBW] shimano cx-70 canti question

[Dan McNamara]

> On Dec 19, 2014, at 6:33 PM, drew beckmeyer  wrote:
> 
> ok, i feel like this is going to end with me missing something obvious. i 
> just got the cx-70 brakes to avoid having to deflate/squeeze my 700x50 tires 
> everytime i want to take the wheels off. im not so new to cantilever brakes 
> but somewhat new to big tires that prevent easy on and off. 
> 
> riv's site sort of implies that they open up easy enough and this video shows 
> a guy doing it
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rA7f-v3Rmts (skip to 1:04)  
> here is the description and pics of it opened up
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc3.htm
> 
> in my reality, when set up and adjusted correctly, it doesnt seem possible to 
> slip the hanger cable from the brake. there isnt enough slack to get the 
> cable to slide out of that little slot, it seems. if the brakes are super 
> wide, i can get it to go, but it has to be uncomfortably far from the rim. 
> adjusting the inline barrel to it's slackest doesnt really work either. 
> 
> so... am i missing something, and if so, what?  id like to avoid deflating or 
> loosening the other side of the cable hanger and then readjusting the brakes 
> all over again. i couldve done that with the old brakes.
> 
> many thanks
> -- 
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[RBW] Re: shimano cx-70 canti question

[Takashi]

You might need levers with built-in quick release, depending on how you 
like your brakes set up.
Or, in-line adjuster / quick releaser might help you.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008USE9LU/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687602&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00BGBRZZK&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0VTW9SXT6TAS0SYK429H

Takashi


2014年12月20日土曜日 11時33分17秒 UTC+9 drew beckmeyer:
>
> ok, i feel like this is going to end with me missing something obvious. i 
> just got the cx-70 brakes to avoid having to deflate/squeeze my 700x50 
> tires everytime i want to take the wheels off. im not so new to cantilever 
> brakes but somewhat new to big tires that prevent easy on and off. 
>
> riv's site sort of implies that they open up easy enough and this video 
> shows a guy doing it
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rA7f-v3Rmts (skip to 1:04)  
> here is the description and pics of it opened up
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc3.htm
>
> in my reality, when set up and adjusted correctly, it doesnt seem possible 
> to slip the hanger cable from the brake. there isnt enough slack to get the 
> cable to slide out of that little slot, it seems. if the brakes are super 
> wide, i can get it to go, but it has to be uncomfortably far from the rim. 
> adjusting the inline barrel to it's slackest doesnt really work either. 
>
> so... am i missing something, and if so, what?  id like to avoid deflating 
> or loosening the other side of the cable hanger and then readjusting the 
> brakes all over again. i couldve done that with the old brakes.
>
> many thanks
>

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[RBW] Re: Bay Area RBW meetup group? ride or camping?

[Amit Singh]

I'm in. Living in Sacramento now, would be great doing a monthly meet up. 
Re: riding here - it's a great trip taking the American River Bike Trail to 
Folsom Lake for an overnight. 

On Thursday, 18 December 2014 15:07:23 UTC-8, Ryan Christbaum wrote:
>
> I might also jump in on this sort of riding.  I've been meaning to get 
>> back out riding on weekends.
>>
>  
>
>> Do yourselves a favor and stay off the trails in the lower part of Tilden 
>> Park if you get the itch to get dirty (Curran Trail, Meadows Canyon and 
>> Wildcat Gorge, specifically.)  Heavy clay soil means you won't get far 
>> before you're walking.  The upper part like Seaview is okay, but sticking 
>> to pavement might be the best option considering the last few weeks.
>>
>  
> -Ryan 
>

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[RBW] (OT) What Kind of Snowshoes Should I Get?

[Amit Singh]

A few folks are talking about a snow-camping adventure. They say snowshoes 
are required, and that fat bikes won't float enough on the powder. So ... 
what kind of snowshoe should I get? Is there a riv-ish snowshoe? MUSA? I 
imagine weight and height is a consideration - I'm 6'6", 230lbs and wear 
size 13 shoes.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Amit

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[RBW] Re: shimano cx-70 canti question

[Michael Hechmer]

I have no experience with this brake.  But your problem is reminiscent of a 
problem I had with an earlier Shimano Canti (550?) and Ultegra brifters. 
 The brifters couldn't pull enough cable, before bottoming out,  to allow 
me to release the straddle cable.  Switching to the Cane Creek / Tectro 
levers fixed that problem, but not the poor stopping quality of those 
brakes.  Now I always match canti brakes with a lever that has a built in 
quick release, and I avoid Shimano cantis.

Michael

On Friday, December 19, 2014 9:33:17 PM UTC-5, drew beckmeyer wrote:
>
> ok, i feel like this is going to end with me missing something obvious. i 
> just got the cx-70 brakes to avoid having to deflate/squeeze my 700x50 
> tires everytime i want to take the wheels off. im not so new to cantilever 
> brakes but somewhat new to big tires that prevent easy on and off. 
>
> riv's site sort of implies that they open up easy enough and this video 
> shows a guy doing it
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rA7f-v3Rmts (skip to 1:04)  
> here is the description and pics of it opened up
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc3.htm
>
> in my reality, when set up and adjusted correctly, it doesnt seem possible 
> to slip the hanger cable from the brake. there isnt enough slack to get the 
> cable to slide out of that little slot, it seems. if the brakes are super 
> wide, i can get it to go, but it has to be uncomfortably far from the rim. 
> adjusting the inline barrel to it's slackest doesnt really work either. 
>
> so... am i missing something, and if so, what?  id like to avoid deflating 
> or loosening the other side of the cable hanger and then readjusting the 
> brakes all over again. i couldve done that with the old brakes.
>
> many thanks
>

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[RBW] shimano cx-70 canti question

[drew beckmeyer]

ok, i feel like this is going to end with me missing something obvious. i 
just got the cx-70 brakes to avoid having to deflate/squeeze my 700x50 
tires everytime i want to take the wheels off. im not so new to cantilever 
brakes but somewhat new to big tires that prevent easy on and off. 

riv's site sort of implies that they open up easy enough and this video 
shows a guy doing it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rA7f-v3Rmts (skip to 1:04)  
here is the description and pics of it opened up
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/brc3.htm

in my reality, when set up and adjusted correctly, it doesnt seem possible 
to slip the hanger cable from the brake. there isnt enough slack to get the 
cable to slide out of that little slot, it seems. if the brakes are super 
wide, i can get it to go, but it has to be uncomfortably far from the rim. 
adjusting the inline barrel to it's slackest doesnt really work either. 

so... am i missing something, and if so, what?  id like to avoid deflating 
or loosening the other side of the cable hanger and then readjusting the 
brakes all over again. i couldve done that with the old brakes.

many thanks

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[RBW] Re: Point Reyes S24O-ish 26 December

[BSWP]

It's paved from Olema or Pt. Reyes Station up to the peel-off for Sky Camp, 
then about a mile or so on dirt road that does, indeed, climb. The NPS 
trucks use the road to service the campsite, but it's likely to be slick 
with mud in spots next Friday. No doubt we'll be walking the bikes up, even 
with the minimal Pasela tread on my Soma C-Lines.

And weather is looking better and better, it would be great if a few others 
were up for joining us there. I'm bringing my SoloStove for soup and 
coffee, maybe some firewood for dogs.

- Andrew, Berkeley

On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:58:49 PM UTC-8, Neil wrote:
>
> That sounds great! Hoping to get out there soon as well. Question: what is 
> the bike access like for Sky Camp? I remember hiking up there years ago and 
> remember it as something of a climb.
>  
>
> On Thursday, December 18, 2014 9:05:48 AM UTC-8, BSWP wrote:
>
>> I have site #6 reserved at Sky Camp, for 26 and 27 of December. Friend 
>> Mark and I are heading there from Ferry Building in SF sometime mid Friday 
>> morning, and will either spend Saturday night there, too, or head further 
>> on to Russian River lodging, not sure. But weather looks clear (can't say 
>> warm, though), anyone interested in sharing the site those nights is 
>> welcome. The site nominally holds six, but the reservations page showed 
>> just about the entire campsite wide open those nights.
>>
>> - Andrew, Berkeley
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: I WANT ONE OF EACH.....AHEM Grant

[Eric Platt]

I nabbed the AHH knife when it was first offered.  Seems to me it was
stated (either in Reader or Blug, I forget) that the cost of having them
engraved went up too much to make it worth it.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Fri, Dec 19, 2014 at 6:15 PM, dougP  wrote:

> Goodies like T-shirts, knives, etc., tend to come in batches & often not
> repeat often.  If there's something I like, I just buy 2, like the coin
> purses.  Hey, with that logic I should get a 2nd Atlantis!  But OTH it's
> not likely to wear out, break or get lost.
>
> dougP
>
>
> On Friday, December 19, 2014 1:28:11 PM UTC-8, Jon in the foothills of
> Central Colorado wrote:
>>
>> RIv Reader #39 ,early 2007,page 34,
>>
>> There are pictures of A.Homer Hilsen  stuff...Swiss knife ,visor, hat,
>> and t-shirt.
>> I would like to see that stuff offered again...for me I'd be happy with
>> the hat (made by Randi Jo of course)and tee shirt and I would like mine to
>> say: Sam Hillborne with a head badge on the front,PLSE.
>> I was drooling over the Mondaine watch but can't swing it right now, but
>> would jump on the hat and tee.
>> I think a hat and tees offered for each Riv model frame would sell.
>> If you agree or would like one,give a shout out to Mr. G.
>>
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[RBW] Re: I WANT ONE OF EACH.....AHEM Grant

[dougP]

Goodies like T-shirts, knives, etc., tend to come in batches & often not 
repeat often.  If there's something I like, I just buy 2, like the coin 
purses.  Hey, with that logic I should get a 2nd Atlantis!  But OTH it's 
not likely to wear out, break or get lost.  

dougP

On Friday, December 19, 2014 1:28:11 PM UTC-8, Jon in the foothills of 
Central Colorado wrote:
>
> RIv Reader #39 ,early 2007,page 34, 
>
> There are pictures of A.Homer Hilsen  stuff...Swiss knife ,visor, hat, and 
> t-shirt.
> I would like to see that stuff offered again...for me I'd be happy with 
> the hat (made by Randi Jo of course)and tee shirt and I would like mine to 
> say: Sam Hillborne with a head badge on the front,PLSE.
> I was drooling over the Mondaine watch but can't swing it right now, but 
> would jump on the hat and tee.
> I think a hat and tees offered for each Riv model frame would sell.
> If you agree or would like one,give a shout out to Mr. G.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: [650B] Re: and now a 42mm 650B Pasela

[Mike Schiller]

unusual huh?... maybe just cheap.   I find Pasela pricing varies by size.   
The bigger sizes are more $$.

I like that they used the thicker tread. Better in the dirt or for loaded 
touring.  If you want a faster tire get a Hetre.

~mike
Carlsbad Ca


>

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[RBW] Re: Drill brake bridge for fender?

[ted]

An L bracket would be another nice approach, particularly with the Sheldon 
nuts.
I have cut bolts to fit before, though probably not that short.
I was just putting longboards over soma GR tires on my Hilsen. There is not 
much room and the 45 fenders are barely wider than the tires. I think 
getting the fender in just the right place would be easier with a threaded 
bridge than with the other methods.
Of course if they work ok the way they are now I'm not gonna be in a big 
hurry to mess with it.

On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:50:55 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Alternatively, Honjo L-brackets are really nice looking.  I also bought a 
> set of Sheldon nuts for the next time fenders go back on the Hilsen. 
>  Christopher is right that you'll have to run a bolt that's exactly the 
> right length.  
>
> On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:47:06 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Bill,
>>
>> Since its basically flat sided in the middle I figure it wouldn't be hard 
>> to carefully mark and center-punch it so a drill wouldn't tend to walk.
>> Then just poke the right size hole with a hand drill and run the tap I 
>> use to clean bottle and rack mount threads through it.
>> Not trivial, but not too difficult either.
>> My SImpleOne has a threaded bridge and I like that better than the metal 
>> sliding crimping thing that comes with the longboards.
>>
>> On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:31:28 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> Drilling and tapping would work if you do it right.  I have bikes that 
>>> came with threaded bridges, and I prefer that.  My Hilsen, like yours, 
>>> doesn't have a threaded rear brake bridge.  I have not drilled and tapped 
>>> it yet, but it's currently not wearing fenders, either.   
>>>
>>> On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:21:31 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:

 Sometimes rear brake bridges have a threaded hole on the bottom for 
 attaching a fender.
 My AHH brake bridge has a squarish section in the center that is flat 
 where a fender bolt might go.
 Would just drilling and taping that face work or should something like 
 a water bottle mount be brazed in if I want to bolt a fender directly to 
 the bridge?
 Anybody know?

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Who you calling DUMMY!?!

[Joe Bernard]

I'm 5'-7" and I think I could ride it with the seat slammed. Those Albas 
reach back a long ways, so I say if you can get a leg over the toptube..go 
for it, Anne!

On Friday, December 19, 2014 8:26:18 AM UTC-8, Matthew J wrote:
>
> > Oh man, I wonder if that bike is too big for me. I could really use it
>
> At that price definitely worth a trip over to Riv if you are in the area. 
>  The blurb says everyone on staff used it.  From the group photos I've 
> seen, Riv staff heights run the gamut.  
>

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[RBW] Re: Point Reyes S24O-ish 26 December

[Neil]

That sounds great! Hoping to get out there soon as well. Question: what is 
the bike access like for Sky Camp? I remember hiking up there years ago and 
remember it as something of a climb.
 

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 9:05:48 AM UTC-8, BSWP wrote:

> I have site #6 reserved at Sky Camp, for 26 and 27 of December. Friend 
> Mark and I are heading there from Ferry Building in SF sometime mid Friday 
> morning, and will either spend Saturday night there, too, or head further 
> on to Russian River lodging, not sure. But weather looks clear (can't say 
> warm, though), anyone interested in sharing the site those nights is 
> welcome. The site nominally holds six, but the reservations page showed 
> just about the entire campsite wide open those nights.
>
> - Andrew, Berkeley
>

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[RBW] Re: Bay Area RBW meetup group? ride or camping?

[Neil]

This sounds awesome. I live a ways away in Rocklin, but am an East Bay kid 
from wayback and am down there frequently. I'll pay attention to that other 
google group.
 
Cheers,
 
Neil

On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 10:22:49 PM UTC-8, DS wrote:

>  Anyone interested in meeting up for a monthly Rivendell ride in the Bay 
> Area (East Bay specifically since I live in Oakland but happy to travel up 
> to an hour and include anyone located within spitting distance)? I feel 
> like there's a lot of  you Oakland/Berkeley members on here, some of you 
> must be riding on weekends and fit within my style and timeframe of riding? 
> Or is there something like this already exists (besides Manny's rides which 
> look totally awesome but would take too much out time and energy out of my 
> weekend)? Would be nice to meet up and ride with some like minded folk. 
> More of a social gathering with some medium duty riding mixed in. Maybe 
> beers mixed in at the end?
>
> One of my highlights this year was Entmoot. So much fun to meet fellow 
> Rivendell owners from all over. I've also enjoyed getting to know the 
> Rivendell employees, and fellow riders through the list and buying/selling 
> things locally. Would love to organize something where we meet up more 
> regularly, for a more casual, social ride setting. And by 'organize' i mean 
> that in the absolute loosest sense of the word. Last thing I want to be 
> responsible for is any sort of official group with insurance and waivers, 
> etc.
>
> I typically go for rides out of Rockridge (up tunnel road, snake rd, or 
> shasta in Berkeley, and figure it out from there) on Saturday or Sunday 
> mornings around 9:00 or 9:30 for around 3-4 hours (road, trail, 
> mixed)...usually, sometimes longer, sometimes shorter when time is tight. 
> Other times I'll go to N. Bay or further out in the East Bay (over the peak 
> and into Mt Diablo/Shell Ridge area) and find some routes there: road or 
> trails. I'm not very fast. Touring pace. Home in time for lunch and a beer. 
> I do this almost every week (rockridge departure) so could be a weekly 
> thing if enough people are interested. I'm not big on being out more than 
> 4-5 hours or so, 4 hours is my sweet spot.
>
> My thought is a once a month thing (like first saturday or sunday?) If 
> enough interest I can just setup a google group and we can take it from 
> there. Just gauging interest for now or seeing if something else is already 
> out there. Maybe an inaugural ride starting at the Rockridge BART the 
> weekend of Jan 3 or 10? I think I already have some travel the first few 
> weeks of Feb so could already be a rocky start for the second month, but 
> happy to make some amends for the greater good where I can.
>
> Possible overnighter meet ups as well?
>
> Let me know, PM or reply to thread.
>
> Disclaimer: my main road ride is actually not a Rivendell, but a Gunnar 
> (outfitted with a front rack and sackville trunk bag of course), though I 
> have three rivendells now for trail (hunqapillar), commute (cheviot), and 
> single speeding (QB) that I can take out to fit in :) Unless someone wants 
> to trade me an AHH.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Drill brake bridge for fender?

[Bill Lindsay]

Alternatively, Honjo L-brackets are really nice looking.  I also bought a 
set of Sheldon nuts for the next time fenders go back on the Hilsen. 
 Christopher is right that you'll have to run a bolt that's exactly the 
right length.  

On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:47:06 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>
> Thanks Bill,
>
> Since its basically flat sided in the middle I figure it wouldn't be hard 
> to carefully mark and center-punch it so a drill wouldn't tend to walk.
> Then just poke the right size hole with a hand drill and run the tap I use 
> to clean bottle and rack mount threads through it.
> Not trivial, but not too difficult either.
> My SImpleOne has a threaded bridge and I like that better than the metal 
> sliding crimping thing that comes with the longboards.
>
> On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:31:28 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Drilling and tapping would work if you do it right.  I have bikes that 
>> came with threaded bridges, and I prefer that.  My Hilsen, like yours, 
>> doesn't have a threaded rear brake bridge.  I have not drilled and tapped 
>> it yet, but it's currently not wearing fenders, either.   
>>
>> On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:21:31 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>>>
>>> Sometimes rear brake bridges have a threaded hole on the bottom for 
>>> attaching a fender.
>>> My AHH brake bridge has a squarish section in the center that is flat 
>>> where a fender bolt might go.
>>> Would just drilling and taping that face work or should something like a 
>>> water bottle mount be brazed in if I want to bolt a fender directly to the 
>>> bridge?
>>> Anybody know?
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Drill brake bridge for fender?

[ted]

Thanks Bill,

Since its basically flat sided in the middle I figure it wouldn't be hard 
to carefully mark and center-punch it so a drill wouldn't tend to walk.
Then just poke the right size hole with a hand drill and run the tap I use 
to clean bottle and rack mount threads through it.
Not trivial, but not too difficult either.
My SImpleOne has a threaded bridge and I like that better than the metal 
sliding crimping thing that comes with the longboards.

On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:31:28 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Drilling and tapping would work if you do it right.  I have bikes that 
> came with threaded bridges, and I prefer that.  My Hilsen, like yours, 
> doesn't have a threaded rear brake bridge.  I have not drilled and tapped 
> it yet, but it's currently not wearing fenders, either.   
>
> On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:21:31 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>>
>> Sometimes rear brake bridges have a threaded hole on the bottom for 
>> attaching a fender.
>> My AHH brake bridge has a squarish section in the center that is flat 
>> where a fender bolt might go.
>> Would just drilling and taping that face work or should something like a 
>> water bottle mount be brazed in if I want to bolt a fender directly to the 
>> bridge?
>> Anybody know?
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Drill brake bridge for fender?

[Chris Chen]

It would probably work, but you don't have a whole lot of space there,
unless you're not going to run a brake bolt perpendicular to it :)

I might do something similar with my Hilsen but I'm going canti:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lumachrome/16054437952/

On Fri, Dec 19, 2014 at 3:21 PM, ted  wrote:
>
> Sometimes rear brake bridges have a threaded hole on the bottom for
> attaching a fender.
> My AHH brake bridge has a squarish section in the center that is flat
> where a fender bolt might go.
> Would just drilling and taping that face work or should something like a
> water bottle mount be brazed in if I want to bolt a fender directly to the
> bridge?
> Anybody know?
>
> --
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-- 
"I want the kind of six pack you can't drink." -- Micah

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[RBW] Re: Drill brake bridge for fender?

[Bill Lindsay]

Drilling and tapping would work if you do it right.  I have bikes that came 
with threaded bridges, and I prefer that.  My Hilsen, like yours, doesn't 
have a threaded rear brake bridge.  I have not drilled and tapped it yet, 
but it's currently not wearing fenders, either.   

On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:21:31 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>
> Sometimes rear brake bridges have a threaded hole on the bottom for 
> attaching a fender.
> My AHH brake bridge has a squarish section in the center that is flat 
> where a fender bolt might go.
> Would just drilling and taping that face work or should something like a 
> water bottle mount be brazed in if I want to bolt a fender directly to the 
> bridge?
> Anybody know?
>

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[RBW] Drill brake bridge for fender?

[ted]

Sometimes rear brake bridges have a threaded hole on the bottom for 
attaching a fender.
My AHH brake bridge has a squarish section in the center that is flat where 
a fender bolt might go.
Would just drilling and taping that face work or should something like a 
water bottle mount be brazed in if I want to bolt a fender directly to the 
bridge?
Anybody know?

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[RBW] Re: I WANT ONE OF EACH.....AHEM Grant

['jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch]

YES! Man I wanted one of those A.H.H. Swiss army knives! I must have bugged 
every one of the staff on the phone looking for one and that's when they 
were current...but alas, sold out. I missed the cool Japanese folder too.

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[RBW] I WANT ONE OF EACH.....AHEM Grant

[Jon in the foothills of Central Colorado]

RIv Reader #39 ,early 2007,page 34, 

There are pictures of A.Homer Hilsen  stuff...Swiss knife ,visor, hat, and 
t-shirt.
I would like to see that stuff offered again...for me I'd be happy with the 
hat (made by Randi Jo of course)and tee shirt and I would like mine to 
say: Sam Hillborne with a head badge on the front,PLSE.
I was drooling over the Mondaine watch but can't swing it right now, but 
would jump on the hat and tee.
I think a hat and tees offered for each Riv model frame would sell.
If you agree or would like one,give a shout out to Mr. G.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Phase Two of an Atlantis build

[Matthew J]

Looking good.

Been a long time since I've seen pipe cleaner sculpture.  Classy.

On Friday, December 19, 2014 2:59:03 PM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Last one.  Details of the custom splashguard I built for my Nitto Big 
> Front Rack.  Plus, a daughter-made pipe cleaner flower to bedazzle my Wald 
> rack
>
> Front rack 
>
> On Thursday, December 18, 2014 12:47:26 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Last night I finished up the fender install, and also made a rack-top 
>> splash guard to protect the underside of my basket contents (not pictured)
>>
>> Bubb-lantis 
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 6:33:17 AM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> Absolutely!  Plenty!
>>>
>>> On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:17:04 PM UTC-8, lungimsam wrote:

 Bill, no interest in DT shifting for an even cleaner and lighter build 
 that would really make cockpit swapping easy?
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Phase Two of an Atlantis build

[Bill Lindsay]

Last one.  Details of the custom splashguard I built for my Nitto Big Front 
Rack.  Plus, a daughter-made pipe cleaner flower to bedazzle my Wald rack

Front rack 

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 12:47:26 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Last night I finished up the fender install, and also made a rack-top 
> splash guard to protect the underside of my basket contents (not pictured)
>
> Bubb-lantis 
>
> On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 6:33:17 AM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Absolutely!  Plenty!
>>
>> On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:17:04 PM UTC-8, lungimsam wrote:
>>>
>>> Bill, no interest in DT shifting for an even cleaner and lighter build 
>>> that would really make cockpit swapping easy?
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

[Scott Henry]

On Fri, Dec 19, 2014 at 1:21 PM, Lynne Fitz  wrote:

> I am compelled to mention that bar end shifters do not preclude using a
> front rack and bag.  Both my Bleriot and my Sweetpea are set up that way.
>
> --
>

​Not 100% sure where we are going here, what shifter setup precludes racks
and bags?

If that was a STI cut, than I totally disagree, I have Ultegra STI levers
on my Handsome with a front bag and on my Kogswell with a decaleur and
rack.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

[Bill Lindsay]

Yes.  You can still get 8 speed Tiagra.  9 and 10 speed Shimano DT shifters 
I think you'll be buying either in the second hand or the NOS kind of 
market.  I've used super cheap 9 speed SunRace DT shifters.  The clicks 
were shimano 9-speed compatible.  

On Friday, December 19, 2014 10:45:24 AM UTC-8, Norman Bone wrote:
>
> All-
> Is anyone still making indexed DT shifters?
>
> -Norman 'waiting for the Pineapple Express in PDX' Bone
>  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

['Norman Bone' via RBW Owners Bunch]

All-Is anyone still making indexed DT shifters?
-Norman 'waiting for the Pineapple Express in PDX' Bone   

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Re: [RBW] Re: Does anyone have a rack mount, battery powered tail light to sell or trade?

[Patrick Moore]

I neglected to mention that I don't have a rear brake caliper (fixed
drivetrain), but that certainly would work well. On my Ram, I run the cable
from the crown to the light, mounted on the bar, around the front brake
cable.

I gather that no one wants to trade a battery rack mount light for my
Toplight ...?

On Thu, Dec 18, 2014 at 1:16 PM, Will  wrote:
>
> I use the same cable housing as my brakes use, LBS stuff. So it's not
> exotic or particularly stand-out visible.
>
> On Thursday, December 18, 2014 10:53:32 AM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> Thanks; I've thought of that, tho' using plastic (copper???) swamp cooler
>> tubing, but but but but ... it's still unsightly, methinks. (Well, copper
>> tubing wouldn't be, but it would be "cluttery".)
>>
>> Perhaps inertia will take over and I'll just run whut I brung and stop
>> fretting.
>>
>> On Thu, Dec 18, 2014 at 7:18 AM, Will  wrote:
>>>
>>> Thread the wire through cable housing. There are several housing gauges
>>> available.  Then use these to attach to the frame.
>>> http://www.vintagebicyclerebuilds.com.au/cable_accessories.htm
>>>
>>> All of it is easy to do. The cable run along the rear rack is short.
>>> There is no dangling. Looks good too.
>>>
>>> Will
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 5:38:01 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Good men can disagree. I do like the "always on" quality of a dynamo
 rear light, But!!

 1. The Toplight seems to me to be rather dim.

 2. More bad, I don't like wire zip tied or taped to, *seriatim,* top
 tube, top of right seat stay, and then spanning the length of the rear
 rack, unsupported -- dangling in the wind, so to speak.

 Had I more money, I'd have a builder find a way to route the rear wire
 through top tube, seat tube, and rack tubes.

 Patrick "Good men always agree that you are wrong and I am right" Moore

 On Wed, Dec 17, 2014 at 4:31 PM, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro <
 marchan...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> PB makes a nice rack mount adapter for its blinkies...I used to use
> one, but decided it was worth the trouble to hook up dynamo wiring.  Trust
> me, it's *really worth the trouble!!!*
>
>
> On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 5:19:06 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> I don't want to hassle with rear wiring. I can use either a 2-bolt or
>> a single-bolt light; want one that uses standard AA or AAA batteries. Not
>> interested in Planet Bike or other standard seatpost mount US blinkies:
>> want a rack mount light, either steady or flashing.
>>
>> Will be happy to trade in full or part for my current, older model
>> Toplight Line Plus which works fine but has a few minor scuffs.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>>
>> *
>> *[I]n exploring the physical universe man has made no attempt to
>> explore himself. Much of what goes by the name of pleasure is simply an
>> effort to destroy consciousness. If one started by asking, what is man?
>> what are his needs? how can he best express himself? one would discover
>> that merely having the power to avoid work and live one’s life from birth
>> to death in electric light and to the tune of tinned music is not a 
>> reason
>> for doing so.”*
>> *
>> -- George Orwell, Pleasure Spots*
>>
>> *Though I speak with the tongues of men and of angels, and have not
>> money, I am become as a sounding brass, or a tinkling cymbal. And though 
>> I
>> have the gift of prophecy, and understand all mysteries, and all 
>> knowledge;
>> and though I have all faith, so that I could remove mountains, and have 
>> not
>> money, I am nothing. And though I bestow all my goods to feed the poor, 
>> and
>> though I give my body to be burned, and have not money, it profiteth me
>> nothing. Money suffereth long, and it is kind; money envieth not; money
>> vaunteth not itself, is not puffed up, doth not behave unseemly, seeketh
>> not her own, is not easily provoked, thinketh no evil; rejoiceth not in
>> iniquity, but rejoiceth in the truth; beareth all things, hopeth all
>> things, endureth all things. . . . And now abideth faith, hope, money,
>> these three; but the greatest of these is money. *
>> *
>>-- George Orwell, Keep The Apidistra Flying*
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

[Patrick Moore]

I too preferred dt shifters for half stepping, though the best setup for me
was those devices that allowed to you mount dt shifters just inboard of
your brake hoods -- mid '90s invention, IIRC, sold by Rivendell at one
time. I remember! Kelly Take-Offs!!

I too prefer bar cons for off road.

But I solved my anxiety about which to choose by riding mostly fixed.

On Thu, Dec 18, 2014 at 8:44 PM, William deRosset 
wrote:
>
>  [...] Bar-cons made me give up on half-step gearing. Downtube shifters
> brought me back.
>
> Bar-cons actually work pretty well for conditions when you can't let go of
> a handlebar due to the roughness of the trail. For me, that's offroad.
>
> --
Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
Other professional writing services.
http://www.resumespecialties.com/
www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten

*
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and
individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu

*Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle

*The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. *Dante

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

[Patrick Moore]

Early winter irritability is showing up in this thread. Let's count our
blessings and move on.

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[RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

[Lynne Fitz]

I am compelled to mention that bar end shifters do not preclude using a front 
rack and bag.  Both my Bleriot and my Sweetpea are set up that way.

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Re: [RBW] Re: What's your winter project?

[Steve Palincsar]

On 12/18/2014 11:12 PM, William deRosset wrote:


I'd also like to have a bike-ectomy, passing along machines I'm not 
using to liberate space in my home. I'm pretty excited by mechanical 
objects (watches, cameras, bikes, cars) and need to remind myself that 
it ain't about the physical object, but about the experiences we 
derive from them. I can only fool myself that a René Herse is a 
fundamentally different experience than a Schwinn World at the end of 
the day.




Sure it is, unless you're willing to go along with the notion that no 
matter what the food is, all eating is fundamentally the same 
experience: biting, chewing, swallowing, digesting, excreting.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Bay Area RBW meetup group? ride or camping?

[David Stein]

No problem. Check out the new group and thread at
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/bay-area-rivendell-riders (you'll
need to request membership).

On Fri, Dec 19, 2014 at 7:51 AM, Greg J  wrote:
>
> I'm in. Thanks for organizing this!
>
> Greg
>
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[RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

[Garth]

DT shifting was/is great with low front end bikes and low drop bars :)
No so great with tall front end bikes intended for a more upright position 
and high bars , the reach and bend are awkward .   

Bar end , not for me either .  Too close to my knees when turning sometimes 
.   

My choice, bar top thumbies :)   ding ding ding ! ! !   we have a winner !  

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires at 25,000 miles

[SpiralCage]

Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires are the absolute best.  I rode my last one 
until you could see a line of the blue belt all the way around the tire. 
 I've gotten over 15,000 miles on all the ones I've had.  I've only had one 
legitimate flat in two complete sets of the tires; my last set had zero 
flats including even this particular incident:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/35237104136@N01/15558308972/in/set-7215764509888

I use the 700x38 on the Atlantis and I find that the ideal size for touring 
and moderate off road use.  Can't imagine using any other tires.

-Robert

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 5:29:32 PM UTC-8, dougP wrote:
>
> Rivendell says Schwalbe tires last a long time & don't get many flats.  
> One of my high mileage touring buds can vouch for both claims.  He got 
> these for Christmas 2012, and has had 2 flats since then.  When the blue 
> puncture protection belt started showing thru one, he decided they'd earned 
> their keep.  The outstanding performance motivated him to get another pair 
> of the same tire, bumping up from 26 x 1.5 to 26 x 1.75 size.  He keeps 
> accurate records of such things and says these have 25,000 miles on them.  
> I've known him for a number of years and don't doubt him.  YMMV.
>
> Pictures prove they're worn out:
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/33786397@N03/sets/72157647503088443/
>
> In the shot with my feet in the background you can just make out a spot of 
> the blue belt starting to show.  It was worn down to that point at a few 
> places around the tire.  Schwalbe's website lists the 1.5" width at 870 
> grams.  We weighed a worn out one at 825 grams.  
>
> dougP
>

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Re: [RBW] Who you calling DUMMY!?!

[Matthew J]

> Oh man, I wonder if that bike is too big for me. I could really use it

At that price definitely worth a trip over to Riv if you are in the area. 
 The blurb says everyone on staff used it.  From the group photos I've 
seen, Riv staff heights run the gamut.  

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[RBW] Re: Who you calling DUMMY!?!

[Thomas McCause]

I miss  my big dummy...

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 1:17:50 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Riv is selling a DUMMYa big oneactually an XL Big Dummy.
>
> DUMMY! 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

[William deRosset]

Dear Steve,

On the other hand, I strongly prefer downtube shifters to bar-cons.

One, I find my bicycle handling is not affected by the reach to the 
downtube with my right hand. I'm not especially tall, but am +4" on the ape 
index (long arms) and the downtube shifters require less effort to reach 
from the drops than the bar-ends.  I deeply dislike shifting both hands to 
the ends of the drops to make a shift, and moving my hands from hooks to 
drops disturbs me more than just letting go with one hand. 

Second, a double shift is a one-handed affair with downtube shifters--it 
can all be done in one movement, with one hand, faster than with bar-cons. 
Thumb on the left shifter, heel of the hand on the right with the last 
fingers to fine-tune the (friction) shift if downshifting. Thumb and index 
finger on left shifter, heel of hand and rest of fingers on right shifter.  
It is even easier with indexed systems and early-shifting derailleurs.

Bar-cons made me give up on half-step gearing. Downtube shifters brought me 
back.

Bar-cons actually work pretty well for conditions when you can't let go of 
a handlebar due to the roughness of the trail. For me, that's offroad.

Best Regards,

Will

William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 1:01:18 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>  On 12/17/2014 02:44 PM, George Schick wrote:
>  
> Plus, if you're used to riding with hands on the brake lever hoods, as I 
> assume most of us are, you still have to reach down to the end of the drops 
> with one hand or the other. With the DT's only one hand is required to do 
> all the shifting - and you only reach down once. 
>
>
> Let me take issue with this.  When I say "reach down" to get at a downtube 
> shifter, I mean not only extend the arm and the hand, but also bend at the 
> waist, tipping the head down towards the ground.  It's a *reach.*  (This 
> varies by frame size, arm length, etc: some people simply drop their hand 
> and it lands right on the shift lever, no body movement involved.  I have a 
> big frame and relatively short arms; for me it is a big reach.)
>
> Unless they have a grotesquely incorrectly sized handlebar and stem, 
> nobody needs to *reach* that way to get their hand on the end of the 
> handle bar.  Yes you do have to move your hand.  No you do not have to 
> extend your arm or bend at the waist.  Or, if you do, you'd really better 
> change your stem and your handlebars.
>
>
>  

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[RBW] Re: Bending back a bent fork

[William deRosset]

Dear Anne,

Yes. You can bend forks a fair bit and still end up with something rideable 
once they've been realigned.

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 1:56:00 PM UTC-7, Anne Paulson wrote:
>
> My adult son has a Rambouillet. He commutes on it. This guy doesn't 
> ride lightly; he has more of a bulldozer approach to riding, it seems. 
> One time he broke a frame by riding into a parked car. Yeah, his steel 
> Trek frame broke at the head tube; I was so pleased that the frame 
> broke to protect that valuable Trek fork. 
>
> Anyway, when he took his bike to the shop for some very overdue 
> maintenance, they noticed that his fork was slightly bent back, 
> undoubtedly because he hit something. The bike is still ridable, but 
> the handling would be better if the fork were as designed. 
>
> The shop says they can get a frame builder to bend the fork back. Is 
> this a reasonable thing to do? 
>
> -- 
> -- Anne Paulson 
>
> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 
>

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[RBW] Re: What's your winter project?

[William deRosset]

Hi, All,

Personal maintenance. I usually gain 10lb over the winter. Given my off 
year last year and my whiplash injury the year prior, I never got on top of 
the bike this year. This winter, I'm aiming to drop a few pounds (that's 
just under a stone) and do some core/neck work to rebalance my body. It is 
a three-month project, minimum. I'm looking forward to a lighter spring.

I'd also like to have a bike-ectomy, passing along machines I'm not using 
to liberate space in my home. I'm pretty excited by mechanical objects 
(watches, cameras, bikes, cars) and need to remind myself that it ain't 
about the physical object, but about the experiences we derive from them. I 
can only fool myself that a René Herse is a fundamentally different 
experience than a Schwinn World at the end of the day.

Best,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO

On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 7:55:07 AM UTC-7, Will wrote:
>
> General maintenance is my project. I finished refitting my son's 1983 Trek 
> 613. It now has bar-ends, better fenders, an Altus rear der. (very nice), 
> Riv's bolt-on brakes (also very nice), a new Top-Line rear light to replace 
> an older B&M model, and a B&M eyc (from Riv) for the front. It's an 
> old-style sport-touring setup and he commutes with it. The dyno is a 
> Shimano pre-built (from Harris) that's been running well for 3 years. He 
> rides with lights on all the time. Also got him one of the Riv safety 
> triangles. My son has been reticent with safety issues, like using helmets, 
> but the Riv triangle changed all of that. He reports that cars now give him 
> a lot of extra space when passing and he will no longer ride without the 
> triangle. So this became a must-have for the family. We all ride with Riv 
> triangles now. 
>
> I added Tubus Logo Evo racks to our two mixtes (the TouringSore.com), put 
> Top-Line (battery) rear lights on them, and roll-top hi-viz panniers. The 
> set-up is great. I don't think many realize that Tubus, B&M, and Ortlieb 
> are co-designed. It's a profoundly impressive system. The lights are 
> seriously good, the racks are seriously good, and the panniers 
> attach/detach in seconds. I purchased Cygo Streaks for the mixtes from Riv. 
> If you are looking for a great light that is simple to install and rather 
> bright, and don't want to invest in a dynamo, these are definitely the 
> ticket. They are cheap for the light they provide. Also added Riv's IRD 
> thumbies to one of the mixtes, the other has the legendary Command units. 
> The IRD thumbies are great. Like them more than bar-ends. 
>
> Current project on the stand is #2 son's bike. I bought Riv's tektro 
> cantis to replace some older cantis that are shot. Will also rework the 
> drive train with an Altus, and a front der. to be determined. 
>
> General thoughts: Riv's recommended parts never disappoint. The brakes and 
> Cygos are great. The Altus is great. I do prefer the Tubus system to the 
> Nitto rack-and-seat-bag system. But then... we park the bikes at public 
> racks and easy on-off baggage is necessary for theft prevention. 
>
> If the Tooth-Fairy dropped a pile of moolah on us. I think we'd all ride 
> Riv-spec'd dynamo Cheviots with Tubus racks and Ortleib or Arkel panniers. 
> That would be the supreme do-all bike. 
>
> On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 4:37:11 AM UTC-6, ascpgh wrote:
>>
>> Riding, besides my commutes, get a bit scant from here on out through 
>> winter. The season, the holidays, more deliberate prep for a trip in the 
>> conditions, plenty of things distract from just a nice ride but I realize 
>> that at this time every year I always seem to contemplate a bike project to 
>> go with the anticipated springtime, fruition or not. It's biking fun for 
>> the extra bandwidth.
>>
>> My project is a low trail, 650b wheeled, all-around bike made with a 
>> lively tube set (versus sturdy for touring) with drop bars, center pull 
>> brakes, generator hub, LED lighting. All on a budget recognizing the value 
>> of experience, unlike the box bike/mass market interpretation, handmade 
>> wheels versus machine made ones as an example. I am reading and including 
>> many posting subjects and items in this project and admit that may not 
>> reach reality, but it's fun to have on the drawing board.
>>
>> Andy Cheatham
>> Pittsburgh
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

[Matthew J]

I'm not out to get you, Matthew J, but vintage clamp on shifters will only 
fit 'standard' diameter downtubes (28.6mm).  The Bleriot and Hillborne in 
question are 31.8mm OS tubing. 

No worries.  Was about to say guess this means Lungimsam ought to get a 
Hilsen but see where he wants cantis.  Tried and true Atlantis fits the 
bill there.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bay Area RBW meetup group? ride or camping?

[Greg J]

I'm in. Thanks for organizing this!

Greg

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[RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

[lungimsam]

I'm thinking DT braze ons (clean set up, cuz no shifter housings up front) and 
cantis for maximum ease of front rack ability and fender ability.

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[RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

[Bill Lindsay]

I'm not out to get you, Matthew J, but vintage clamp on shifters will only 
fit 'standard' diameter downtubes (28.6mm).  The Bleriot and Hillborne in 
question are 31.8mm OS tubing.  I'm sure there's a Problem Solvers variant 
that would make it possible.  

Adding an entirely new bike to the stable to add a shifting technique is 
brilliant, though.  

B

On Friday, December 19, 2014 6:06:11 AM UTC-8, Matthew J wrote:
>
> > Pondering this for a next bike I may get one day to see if I should get 
> bosses on the frame or not. 
>
> Yeah, Bill L. pointed out to me no DT shifters on the Bleriot. 
>
> > I guess the only way I'll know is to find a bike with them and try it out
>
> The opportunity to get a third bike is all the more reason to try DT!  
>
> Another option - Simplex Retrofriction clamp on version are often 
> available for less than braze on.  Case in point:
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/SIMPLEX-Super-LJ-Friction-Downtube-Shifters-Clamp-On-Late-Version-Vintage-France-/26170584?pt=US_Shifters&hash=item3ceee21b76
>

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[RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

[Matthew J]

> Pondering this for a next bike I may get one day to see if I should get 
bosses on the frame or not. 

Yeah, Bill L. pointed out to me no DT shifters on the Bleriot. 

> I guess the only way I'll know is to find a bike with them and try it out

The opportunity to get a third bike is all the more reason to try DT!  

Another option - Simplex Retrofriction clamp on version are often available 
for less than braze on.  Case in point:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SIMPLEX-Super-LJ-Friction-Downtube-Shifters-Clamp-On-Late-Version-Vintage-France-/26170584?pt=US_Shifters&hash=item3ceee21b76

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[RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

[Andrew Marchant-Shapiro]

Besides Lance, Pantani did the same thing; DT left, Ergo right.  Apparently 
it's popular for mountain stages.

Doing my first century, something like 16 years ago now, I saw a guy on a 
Lightspeed (IIRC) with DT shifters.  I was so proud of my Command Shifters 
at the time.  We started chatting about shifting and he mentioned that the 
DT shifters were lighter than integrated units...and gradually rode away 
from me up the hill (though I don't think the shifters were the reason for 
that).

On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 12:09:21 AM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:
>
> If I love friction  bar end shifting, will I find friction DT shifting 
> just as easy and enjoyable? 
>
> Never done it before, and seems like the reach may make it more difficult 
> and looks like there's a big potential for knees banging into forearms 
> while pedalling and reaching down to shift  at same time. 
>
> What's your experience been with DT shifting?

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[RBW] Re: Bar end vs. down tube shifting... What's your experience...

[ascpgh]

That's great! Mixed media shifting is always interesting. 

Long ago, when promoting a stage race in the Ozark Mountains, this up and 
coming kid from Dallas who had been doing triathlons came and he preferred 
a bar end on the left and a Shimano brifter on the right. He vastly 
preferred the infinite trimming ability over the multiple choice question 
of STI shifting.

Once sponsored, complete groups were obligatory.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 9:27:50 PM UTC-5, Dave Johnston wrote:
>
> How about 1 of each like on my rSogn? Friction DT on the left and Indexed 
> barcon on the right. 
>
>
> 
>
>
>

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