[RBW] Thin Gripster Rehab?

[Pondero]

Thanks, all.  I think I'll try Garth's simple suggestion first and see if that 
works.

Chris Johnson
Sanger, Texas

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[RBW] Re: Thin Gripster Rehab?

[Ron Mc]

btw, I've discovered the way to get max life out of my Raceface axles is to 
partially disassemble and re-tighten everything regularly.  My first axle 
was replaced on warrant - the click showed up within a month (and wouldn't 
tighten away) and I believe the problem was it didn't arrive properly 
tightened.  Note I haven't had this problem on my VP-001s.  

On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 7:06:44 AM UTC-6, Pondero wrote:
>
> Thanks, all.  I think I'll try Garth's simple suggestion first and see if 
> that works.
>
> Chris Johnson
> Sanger, Texas
>

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[RBW] Re: St Louis Riv

[John Aydelotte]

If you were at Steger/Computer School then it was mine!  I'm not a teacher, 
but do IT work for the district.  Feel free to stop in the Library and say 
hi sometime -- always happy to chat with another Riv person.

On Friday, December 11, 2015 at 1:24:36 PM UTC-6, coaltrain76 wrote:
>
> Anybody on here own an Atlantis and teach in Webster schools?  I was 
> picking my kids up and saw one parked in the bike rack.  

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[RBW] WTB: Nitto longboy long stay rack

[David Sprunger]

I'm looking for a large Nitto rack in the extra long configuration for a
Cheviot project. At the Rivendell site, the link has totally disappeared,
so there's not even a back order list. Has anyone seen this rack at one of
the Riv dealers or know of a used one out there somewhere?
Thanks,
David Sprunger
Fargo, ND

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[RBW] FS: NEW Size M Devold Wool Boxers

[Justin August]

Are these snug or loose?
What waist are you?

-J

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto longboy long stay rack

[Jon Dukeman in the foothills of Colorado]

Ask Spencer at Riv if they are planning on ordering that rack. He is very 
helpful.
Jon

On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 7:14:21 AM UTC-7, spru...@gmail.com wrote:

> I'm looking for a large Nitto rack in the extra long configuration for a 
> Cheviot project. At the Rivendell site, the link has totally disappeared, 
> so there's not even a back order list. Has anyone seen this rack at one of 
> the Riv dealers or know of a used one out there somewhere?
> Thanks,
> David Sprunger
> Fargo, ND
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto longboy long stay rack

[iamkeith]

Well that stinks!  Make that two of us looking (you get first dibs, of 
course).  Same thing - if anybody knows of some or has some, please let me 
know too.

They were there just a couple of days ago.   There was a note that said 
"while supplies last," which I suppose I should have taken more seriously. 
 I just bought a clem pletscher rack, and discovered that it doesn't even 
fit my clem bike.  I thought I'd try it for kicks first, thinking that I 
could (or would) eventually upgrade to the longboy.  Bad plan.  I don't 
know why they'd discontinue this just as a bunch of new clems and a bunch 
of new joes are about to be released into the wild.  Perhaps they're 
working on an updated version and we'll have another option soon?

On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 7:14:21 AM UTC-7, spru...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> I'm looking for a large Nitto rack in the extra long configuration for a 
> Cheviot project. At the Rivendell site, the link has totally disappeared, 
> so there's not even a back order list. Has anyone seen this rack at one of 
> the Riv dealers or know of a used one out there somewhere?
> Thanks,
> David Sprunger
> Fargo, ND
>
>

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[RBW] Re: For sale- lots of Rivish items and 3 bikes

[Bruce Smitham]

All bikes, bags and components are SOLD. The only remaining item is a 44cm 
Nitto Noodle handlebar in great condition. Looking for $40 plus shipping.

Thanks,

Bruce

On Wednesday, December 2, 2015 at 8:57:51 PM UTC-8, Bruce Smitham wrote:
>
> Update of remaining items for sale:
>>
>> *56cm Surly Long Haul Trucker* "LHT" in black with un-cut steerer tube. 
>> Perfect/Mint condition. Stock build with a few nice Rivendell-type upgrades 
>> including: Sugino triple crankset 46/26/24, Shimano Dura-Ace 9 speed 
>> shifters and MKS Sylvan touring pedals. Plus your choice of tires: Schwalbe 
>> Kojak 35mm or Smart Sam 45mm or Marathon Supreme 50mm. Very versatile and 
>> ready for touring $950 plus shipping 
>>
>> *Nitto Noodle 44cm handlebars*. Good condition with minor scratches & 
>> tape residue $40 plus shipping
>>
>> just not for me. 
>>
>> *Rivendell Sackville Grabsack in tan*. Excellent condition $55 plus 
>> shipping
>>
>> *Rivendell Sackville Bar tube in tan*. Great condition with small brake 
>> cable rub on the backside. $50 plus shipping
>>
>>
>> Photos here:
>>
>>  
>>
>> https://flic.kr/s/aHskmHM6Hz
>>
>
> Thanks, Bruce in San Diego 
>

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Re: [RBW] Albastache vs moustache, haters, likers

[masmojo]

I've had the original mustache bars on my XO-1 since new, I don't ride that 
bike much anymore, because the hand position I like most is just in front of 
the back flatd with my forefinger or two fingers on yhe brake lever & it's a 
bit more aggressive position then I can manage for long periods now
I have the Albatross on my Surly Cross Check, I like it OK, but feel like maybe 
it's not aggressive enough, same with the Bosco on my Clementine. 
I would love to try the Albastache based on my experiences with the other bars 
I think I would love it!
Thinking I might put some on the Cross Check . . . . ? 

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[RBW] FS: Acorn Boxy Rando Bag (tan)

[RJ Rempel]

If you missed the Acorn scramble, here's a second chance.

Just acquired a tan Acorn Boxy Rando bag here a week ago or so. Original 
owner never used it. I mounted it to my rack and decided I want something 
larger. It's the previous style, with the velcro straps on the bottom. 
Since I fastened it to my bike I won't say it's new...but as close as you 
can get. Simply asking what I paid for it $165.

Thanks,
Robb (in Lincoln, NE)

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[RBW] FS nitto front rack, albatross, pedals, derailer, brake levers,

[Jeff B]

These are extras from a build that never got finished. They are all brand 
new except for the pedals. email for pics: jeffbogdanov...@hotmail.com

Nitto F32 mini front rack with p-clamps in case you don't have eyelets, for 
canti/V-brake bikes -$95 shipped

Soma Oxford handlebar (same as albatross) with a beautifully shellacked 
cotton tape/twine and shimano silver v-brake levers. This would be a 
drop-in replacement for you Clem owners out there that want to try 
albatross bars. -- $55 shipped

Shiimano XT dual sided spd / platform trekking pedals. These have about 200 
miles on them, bearings as smooth as can be, includes single release cleats 
with equivalent mileage. Black --- $45 shipped

Claris medium cage rear der, 11-32 max cassette, grey --- $15 
shipped

Thanks for looking and happy holidays.

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[RBW] Compass Randonneur & Nitto Noodle - Sizing & more

[Pierre]

I was wondering if anybody tried both Compass Randonneur & Nitto Noodle and 
could elaborate on their experience.

I am a little lost on the sizing (looks like both use different way of 
measuring size), I own a Noodle 44cm, which fits OK.

Looks like the Randonneur has longer and more curvy ramps?

Thanks.

Pierre

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone order a Joe?

[Timothy Miller]

I pushed the button on the last day. I ordered one in mid Nov. then 
chickened out and canceled the order, but couldn't stand it so I finally 
did it for keeps. Over the past three months I think I've read everything 
on the Riv site. I liked the Atlantis, but think the Joe App will suit my 
needs.

On Monday, December 7, 2015 at 5:06:10 AM UTC-6, William R. wrote:
>
> Hi Andrew. Short answer is no. The only thing close to the final Joe 
> Apploosa that we will get in Feb/March is the 55cm Proto Appaloosa that was 
> featured in the Blug announcement. And that frames geo doesn't really 
> correspond to the final geo provided. If I were close enough to Riv HQ I 
> think you could go test a Cheviot for long chain stay feel and a Sam for 
> size and they would give you a pretty good idea.
>
> Bill in Westchester, NY
>

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[RBW] Re: Thin Gripster Rehab?

[Marc Irwin]

Mine developed the clicking you referred to and then, very suddenly, and 
inconveniently fell apart.  Really, on a two week trip they decided to quit 
on their own schedule. 
 
 I was in the middle of podunk nowhere Illinois and found a hardware store 
which had a pair of $5 MTB pedals I used to finish the trip.  I have since 
replaced them with MKS Lambda pedals and added the spikes.  They are made 
to  be rebuilt and serviced...on *MY* schedule.  Yeah, those sealed 
bearings are not the convenience we bought!

Marc

On Saturday, December 12, 2015 at 3:34:20 PM UTC-5, Pondero wrote:
>
> Has anyone repaired/rehabed a thin gripster pedal?
>
> I love my thin gripster pedals, except one of them has developed an 
> annoying clicking sound.  It did that earlier and I was able to snug up the 
> nut and (temporarily) solve the problem.  The maddening click is back and 
> it appears that a more major repair is in order.
>
> Any hints/tips/suggestions on how to diagnose and solve the problem?
>
> Chris Johnson
> Sanger, Texas
>

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[RBW] FS nitto front rack, albatross, pedals, derailer, brake levers,

[Zach Duval]

I'may interested in the bars if they'really still available; however, I'may not 
finding a way to directly reply (using the mobile site) and my attempt at an 
email was returned.

Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: St Louis Riv

[coaltrain76]

Yep that's the one. I'll swing by next time I'm up there.  Pretty Atlantis!  Do 
you ride with any other Riv people in St Louis?

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[RBW] Re: WTT 52 Bombadil frame for a smaller size

[Chad]

Works for me using the mobile app as well.  Oddly enough the standover on the 
Bombadil works out to be identical to that of my 51 Hillborne when I swap 
wheelsets with the same tires.  I have about 1 inch of standover with 53mm 
tires and 1.5 with 42mm tires.  The top tube however is 3 cm longer.  I would 
also entertain the idea of trading for a smaller Hilsen, Saluki, Rodeo, or 
Legolas.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone order a Joe?

[Christopher Murray]

It shouldn't be long until they have the JoeApp built up. I wonder if they will 
post pictures on the Blug right away or make us wait? 

Excited,
Chris

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[RBW] WTT 52 Bombadil frame for a smaller size

[Chad]

I'm also considering the idea of selling the Bomba to fund purchase of a new 
Hunqapillar or Bombadil in a smaller size.  Not sure what it's worth yet.

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[RBW] "adequate" fender clearance

[ted]

Jan Heine has written that they "... recommend 20 mm between tire and 
fender for safety."
In the Roadeo write up RBW says you can put fenders over a 33.33mm tire and 
without fenders can fit a 35mm tire.
That's only a 1.6 mm diff in size. I see lots of photos showing tire 
clearance that look like there is a lot less than 20 mm there.
Most photos of fendered bikes I see don't look like they have that large a 
gap either.
Do most folks really leave 20 mm (over 3/4 inch) between tire and fender?
Do most folks measure the clearance from the inner fender surface or from 
the largest protrusion in there (e.g. mounting bolt for a light)?

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[RBW] 650BX38 small-profile knobby recs?

[Chad]

FWIW, I can easily run both a 42mm Babyshoe Pass and a 41mm Fatty Rumpkin under 
SKS P50 fenders mounted with Sheldons Nuts.  I have the Tektro Sidepulls but 
may upgrade to Paul Racers at some point for even more clearance.  I have a 51 
Hillborne.

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[RBW] 650BX38 small-profile knobby recs?

[Zach Duval]

I had wondered about sizing for the Fatty Rumpkin.

What rims are you using?

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[RBW] 650BX38 small-profile knobby recs?

[ted]

Chad,
How much space do you have between the tire and the fender?
Thanks
Ted

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[RBW] Re: Anyone order a Joe?

[Dave Johnston]

Anybody know the seatpost size? 27.2?  I've already started identifying 
upgrade parts from my stash.

-Dave 

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[RBW] WTT 52 Bombadil frame for a smaller size

[Zach Duval]

Are you keeping the bars (and/or the rest of the build)?

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Re: [RBW] 650BX38 small-profile knobby recs?

[Chad Schoenthaler]

The fatty rumpkins measure out to about 40.5mm wide on synergies.  They are the 
brown sidewall tough version.  They are actually a little taller but about 1mm 
skinnier than the babyshoes.  I have the fenders off right now, but I could get 
my index finger between tire and fender, so maybe 10mm with slightly less at 
the fork crown.  I've found that being able to mount the fender behind the 
crown with a sheldons nut helps pull the fender up a little more off the tire 
since the SKS have some flex.  They have never rubbed anywhere but the front 
caliper sometimes pinches the fender if its not perfectly centered.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 13, 2015, at 5:43 PM, Zach Duval  wrote:
> 
> I had wondered about sizing for the Fatty Rumpkin.
> 
> What rims are you using?
> 
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[RBW] Re: FS: NEW Size M Devold Wool Boxers

[Daniel Jackson]

sold.

On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 10:09:56 AM UTC-5, Justin August wrote:
>
> Are these snug or loose?
> What waist are you?
>
> -J
>

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[RBW] Re: "adequate" fender clearance

[Bill Lindsay]

I think you may have misunderstood what Jan writes.  The only place he goes 
all the way to 20mm of clearance that I know of is when you are scoping out 
whether or not you have clearance on your frame.  He writes you shoudl have 
15mm between the fork crown and the tire or the rear stay bridges and the 
tire, but then says 20mm is even better.  Most people do not have 20mm of 
clearance between the tire and the inside of their fender.  

Most folks measure the clearance from the inner fender surface to the tire 
when they talk about their fender clearance.  

Some people like about 10mm from tire to fender.  Some consider it good 
enough if their tire isn't rubbing.  

On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 3:14:03 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>
> Jan Heine has written that they "... recommend 20 mm between tire and 
> fender for safety."
> In the Roadeo write up RBW says you can put fenders over a 33.33mm tire 
> and without fenders can fit a 35mm tire.
> That's only a 1.6 mm diff in size. I see lots of photos showing tire 
> clearance that look like there is a lot less than 20 mm there.
> Most photos of fendered bikes I see don't look like they have that large a 
> gap either.
> Do most folks really leave 20 mm (over 3/4 inch) between tire and fender?
> Do most folks measure the clearance from the inner fender surface or from 
> the largest protrusion in there (e.g. mounting bolt for a light)?
>

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[RBW] WTT 52 Bombadil frame for a smaller size

[Chad]

If I sold it complete I would probably put the 46 noodles/8cm DirtDrop combo 
and Quasi-motos back on.  I have not tried it with that combo because I think 
it would be too stretched out for comfort (I run 44 Noodles/Tallux 8 on my 
Hillborne).  The Albastache/Dirt Drop combo and the Bullmoose bars both work 
well for me.  The frame has a quite a few chips/scrapes from the previous 
owner.  I'm probably more particular than most, so I planning on having a 
repaint done.  It's too nice of a frame to leave the paint as is IMHO.

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[RBW] Re: "adequate" fender clearance

[ted]

Thanks Bill,

Just for reference, in the 650B group Jan posted:

"If you use these fenders with wider tires, you encroach on the clearance 
between tire and fender. We recommend 20 mm between tire and fender for 
safety. If you use a tire that is about 8 mm wider, you reduce that to 12 
mm. The bike will be rideable, but it's less than optimal. I wouldn't ride 
a bike like that on gravel."

Perhaps he feels 10 or 12 mm between tire and fender is acceptable and 20 
is optimal, but he clearly is recommending a 20 mm gap there.

On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 4:23:40 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> I think you may have misunderstood what Jan writes.  The only place he 
> goes all the way to 20mm of clearance that I know of is when you are 
> scoping out whether or not you have clearance on your frame.  He writes you 
> shoudl have 15mm between the fork crown and the tire or the rear stay 
> bridges and the tire, but then says 20mm is even better.  Most people do 
> not have 20mm of clearance between the tire and the inside of their 
> fender.  
>
> Most folks measure the clearance from the inner fender surface to the tire 
> when they talk about their fender clearance.  
>
> Some people like about 10mm from tire to fender.  Some consider it good 
> enough if their tire isn't rubbing.  
>
> On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 3:14:03 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>>
>> Jan Heine has written that they "... recommend 20 mm between tire and 
>> fender for safety."
>> In the Roadeo write up RBW says you can put fenders over a 33.33mm tire 
>> and without fenders can fit a 35mm tire.
>> That's only a 1.6 mm diff in size. I see lots of photos showing tire 
>> clearance that look like there is a lot less than 20 mm there.
>> Most photos of fendered bikes I see don't look like they have that large 
>> a gap either.
>> Do most folks really leave 20 mm (over 3/4 inch) between tire and fender?
>> Do most folks measure the clearance from the inner fender surface or from 
>> the largest protrusion in there (e.g. mounting bolt for a light)?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: St Louis Riv

[John Aydelotte]

Not much.  Right now, that's my commuting rig (not that my commute is much 
over a mile).  I don't actually know any other Riv riders in the area (but 
I've only been here two years).  I used to do the Saturday morning ride at 
the Hub with my son, but this year he's switched over to running 
cross-country and track, and doesn't bike much any more.  Spare/riding time 
has been very tight since I moved heretoo much work on our money pit 
house going on...

On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 2:26:01 PM UTC-6, coaltrain76 wrote:
>
> Yep that's the one. I'll swing by next time I'm up there.  Pretty 
> Atlantis!  Do you ride with any other Riv people in St Louis?
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone order a Joe?

[Patrick Kelly]

Do any riv bikes not have 27.2 seatposts? That seems to be the
standard size of the posts that riv sells. I tried to check the geo
spreadsheet, but no data there.

Speaking of upgrades... What tires are folks thinking about? Anybody
planning on just wearing out the included kenda kwicks? Or anybody
have experience with them?

On Sun, Dec 13, 2015 at 1:51 PM, Dave Johnston  wrote:
> Anybody know the seatpost size? 27.2?  I've already started identifying
> upgrade parts from my stash.
>
> -Dave
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto longboy long stay rack

[Patrick Kelly]

How do you mean the pletscher doesn't fit on the clem? What's the
problem? Photos?

I must confess that I got the last longboy. I saw that there were only
2 in stock, and then 1, so I grabbed it almost 2 weeks ago. I
pre-ordered a joe appaloosa and I was worried about using a "standard"
rack (I have many cheap aluminum racks in my bin) on it, given the
long chainstays.

I assume that they'll be ordering more longboys, but who knows when
they'll show up? I didn't want to risk being rackless when I got my
spiffy new ride.



On Sun, Dec 13, 2015 at 6:05 AM, iamkeith  wrote:
> Well that stinks!  Make that two of us looking (you get first dibs, of
> course).  Same thing - if anybody knows of some or has some, please let me
> know too.
>
> They were there just a couple of days ago.   There was a note that said
> "while supplies last," which I suppose I should have taken more seriously.
> I just bought a clem pletscher rack, and discovered that it doesn't even fit
> my clem bike.  I thought I'd try it for kicks first, thinking that I could
> (or would) eventually upgrade to the longboy.  Bad plan.  I don't know why
> they'd discontinue this just as a bunch of new clems and a bunch of new joes
> are about to be released into the wild.  Perhaps they're working on an
> updated version and we'll have another option soon?
>
> On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 7:14:21 AM UTC-7, spru...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> I'm looking for a large Nitto rack in the extra long configuration for a
>> Cheviot project. At the Rivendell site, the link has totally disappeared, so
>> there's not even a back order list. Has anyone seen this rack at one of the
>> Riv dealers or know of a used one out there somewhere?
>> Thanks,
>> David Sprunger
>> Fargo, ND
>>
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[RBW] Advice on cycling in Japan

[Daniel Jackson]

So now that I've got my Hunq built and my kids trailer is attached, this 
family of three is ready for a month long cycling trip through Japan. Yep - 
that's vague. 

This coming summer or fall. Shikoku or Hokkaido or both or somewhere else 
if you think we should. 

I'm hoping likeminded folks in this group can help suggest a tour that:

- exclaims dirt road dirt bagging (the more dirt and gravel the better)
- finds onsens in forests nestled well off the map
- seriously concerns itself with food
- will accommodate a 1.8 year old who is already well accustomed to bike 
touring in the states.

Thank you all!
D.   

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[RBW] WTB: Nitto Tallux 100mm

[Daniel Jackson]

Let me know!

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[RBW] WTB Nitto Tallux 100mm

[Daniel Jackson]

Let me know!

Thanks,
D.

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[RBW] Re: "adequate" fender clearance

[Michael Hechmer]

Metal fenders have a rolled lip about 4 mm wide, so that uses 8 mm of real 
estate.  If you have 5 mm of clearance on each side that gets you to 18mm. 
 So a 32 mm tire will want a 50 mm tire or more.  You can cheat on that 
number a bit but you run more risk of both rubbing and trapping debris.

Plastic fenders don't have the lip and don't curl around the tire as much, 
so you can get away with a much smaller fender, but 1.5 mm is pretty tight, 
even if the fender doesn't cover to the widest point of the tire.

I run 45 mm fenders with 29 mm tires on the Ram and  55 mm fenders with 38 
mm tires on both our tandem & Saluki.  Jan's 20 mm recommendation makes a 
lot of sense, if your frame & brakes will support it.

Michael

On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 6:14:03 PM UTC-5, ted wrote:
>
> Jan Heine has written that they "... recommend 20 mm between tire and 
> fender for safety."
> In the Roadeo write up RBW says you can put fenders over a 33.33mm tire 
> and without fenders can fit a 35mm tire.
> That's only a 1.6 mm diff in size. I see lots of photos showing tire 
> clearance that look like there is a lot less than 20 mm there.
> Most photos of fendered bikes I see don't look like they have that large a 
> gap either.
> Do most folks really leave 20 mm (over 3/4 inch) between tire and fender?
> Do most folks measure the clearance from the inner fender surface or from 
> the largest protrusion in there (e.g. mounting bolt for a light)?
>

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[RBW] Re: "adequate" fender clearance

[ted]

Michael,

Are you saying the 20 mm Jan referred to is the difference between tire and 
fender measured width, and not the space between tire and fender?

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[RBW] Re: "adequate" fender clearance

[Bill Lindsay]

Thanks for the clarification, but I still think you misunderstand what Jan 
is recommending in the post you quote.  In that post, Jan is specifically 
saying that a 60mm wide fender is intended to use with a 42mm tire.  They 
recommend that the width of the fender should be about 20mm wider than the 
width of the tire.  Even though I think Jan's post, separated from context, 
could be misconstrued, he has consistently recommended over the years that 
10mm of clearance between fender and tire is ample and 8mm is acceptable.  
There's nothing inherently wrong with 20mm of clearance, except it would 
look kind of ugly.  You'll never catch Jan saying you need 20mm of space 
between tire and fender.  That's excessive for road use.   You winter and 
mud riders may do well to have a lot more clearance, but for the rest of 
us, ~10mm is plenty.  

On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 5:03:35 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>
> Thanks Bill,
>
> Just for reference, in the 650B group Jan posted:
>
> "If you use these fenders with wider tires, you encroach on the clearance 
> between tire and fender. We recommend 20 mm between tire and fender for 
> safety. If you use a tire that is about 8 mm wider, you reduce that to 12 
> mm. The bike will be rideable, but it's less than optimal. I wouldn't ride 
> a bike like that on gravel."
>
> Perhaps he feels 10 or 12 mm between tire and fender is acceptable and 20 
> is optimal, but he clearly is recommending a 20 mm gap there.
>
> On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 4:23:40 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> I think you may have misunderstood what Jan writes.  The only place he 
>> goes all the way to 20mm of clearance that I know of is when you are 
>> scoping out whether or not you have clearance on your frame.  He writes you 
>> shoudl have 15mm between the fork crown and the tire or the rear stay 
>> bridges and the tire, but then says 20mm is even better.  Most people do 
>> not have 20mm of clearance between the tire and the inside of their 
>> fender.  
>>
>> Most folks measure the clearance from the inner fender surface to the 
>> tire when they talk about their fender clearance.  
>>
>> Some people like about 10mm from tire to fender.  Some consider it good 
>> enough if their tire isn't rubbing.  
>>
>> On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 3:14:03 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>>>
>>> Jan Heine has written that they "... recommend 20 mm between tire and 
>>> fender for safety."
>>> In the Roadeo write up RBW says you can put fenders over a 33.33mm tire 
>>> and without fenders can fit a 35mm tire.
>>> That's only a 1.6 mm diff in size. I see lots of photos showing tire 
>>> clearance that look like there is a lot less than 20 mm there.
>>> Most photos of fendered bikes I see don't look like they have that large 
>>> a gap either.
>>> Do most folks really leave 20 mm (over 3/4 inch) between tire and fender?
>>> Do most folks measure the clearance from the inner fender surface or 
>>> from the largest protrusion in there (e.g. mounting bolt for a light)?
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: "adequate" fender clearance

[ted]

Bill,
Thanks for straightening me out.
Would it be fair to say that standard practice is minimum clearance of 8 to 10 
mm, though some folks go with much less than that?

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[RBW] Re: "adequate" fender clearance

[Bill Lindsay]

Yes, Ted, I would say that Jan's guidance for best practices is to try to 
have 8-10mm of clearance between fender and tire, everywhere.  Many do go 
with much less, particularly for those who try to run the absolute widest 
tire their bike will take.  

On Sunday, December 13, 2015 at 8:50:01 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>
> Bill,
> Thanks for straightening me out.
> Would it be fair to say that standard practice is minimum clearance of 8 
> to 10 mm, though some folks go with much less than that?

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[RBW] Re: "adequate" fender clearance

[Jan Heine]

Interesting discussion. Just to clarify, I really do like to see 20 mm of 
"air" between the top of the tire and the fender. Here is a photo:

https://janheine.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/compass_babyshoe.jpg

Anything less risks trouble when your tires pick up small rocks and drag 
them through the fender. Even on gravel roads, you shouldn't get the 
"scrtchh" of a rock rolling between tire and fender more than once every 
500 miles... You can ride a bike with less clearance, but it's a little 
risky for my taste. I know too many people who've fallen on their faces 
when fenders collapsed and jammed the front wheel.

There really is no reason to have less clearance on a custom bike. The 
fender lines on the bike shown in the photo above look great, see

https://janheine.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/jhherse_full.jpg

There really is no reason to mount the fenders closer to the tires, except 
that when you remove the fenders, the clearances may look excessively 
large. (Just like my car, my bike always carries fenders, so that isn't an 
issue for me.)

Of course, you don't need (and won't get) 20 mm all around the tire, 
because your fender doesn't need (and cannot) to be 40 mm wider than your 
tire! You won't drag debris along the sides of the tire, so less clearance 
there is fine. You just need enough so that if your fender's position moves 
a bit after you lean your bike against a wall or something like that, the 
tire doesn't rub on the fender. 10 mm probably is fine there.

The chainstays and fork blades will encroach a little further into your 
clearance. It's fine to indent the fenders there - the fenders are firmly 
supported, so they won't budge. In those places, you just need enough that 
frame flex, wheel flex or a slightly out-of-true wheel won't cause the tire 
to rub on the fender. I'd say 5 mm is OK, 8 is better.

Of course, you can ride bikes with much less clearance. I have done so for 
many years. The fenders may rub a bit when you rise out of the saddle, and 
you have to hope for the best when riding over gravel, but most of the 
time, it's fine. 

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com


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