[RBW] Christmas Clementine

[Tom Harrop]

That is magic, well done. So you went for v-brakes over the cantis and pulley 
that were discussed earlier?

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[RBW] Clem Wheel Lock Anyone?

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

The Clem(entines) feature braze-ons on the aft-facing portion of the 
seatstays for attaching a wheel lock. Rivendell may have briefly carried 
these, or planned to, I'm not sure. But they don't currently. And 
apparently neither does anyone else in the U.S. 

http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-Safety-and-Security/Locks/Frame-Locks/Amparo-4850

http://www.starbike.com/en/abus-amparo-4850/



I was thinking of ordering the lock from a German website, Starbike, if 
others have had a positive experience with this company. They have the 
locks for $18.21. But with the shipping minus VAT and the euro exchange, it 
comes to $45.  If two other Clemsters are interested, the total would be 
$82, for a cost of about $27 each. Assuming additional domestic shipping of 
max $8 (probably less) that would be $35, still a $10 savings (I would 
repackage and send out the locks via USPS). I am also assuming these will 
work with the Clem braze-on spacing (says "easy screwing to the threaded 
rear frame" in the catalog copy), but I will check with Rivendell tomorrow. 
If two Clems commit, I will collect via paypal after they arrive to me so I 
can calculate exact domestic shipping charges to you. (I don't want to deal 
with more than two, and the incentives start to dwindle after that anyway.) 
If there is interest, I will go with the first two to commit to paying up 
to the $35 (with the understanding I will confirm these locks will work 
with the bike setup and will order tomorrow). 

Note: This is the version in which the key CAN be removed when the lock is 
in the open position. The plus is an unauthorized person cannot lock up 
your wheel and make off with the key. The minus is you don't have the 
security of never forgetting to have your key. Anyway, they do not offer 
the other version.

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[RBW] Re: Clem Wheel Lock Anyone?

[Zed Martinez]

I was actually able to order mine from a small bike shop down the street 
for a different bike last year. Only took a couple weeks to get in. Had a 
problem where the first time it was the wrong spacing for mounting bolts, 
but, the Abus rep took care of it for me and the shop owner. I'd say it's 
still worth asking any good local shop because honestly, this is like the 
smallest one in my city and he still had access to the Abus catalog. 

That said, that's the exact model I got. It works just fine on the Clem 
indeed. Adds a little weight to the rear end when picking it up to carry in 
places, but nothing you can really feel on the ride. Add a saddle cable and 
it's great for running through any bags or helmet you might have for a 
little added security on longer lock-ups. Nice lock. Worth it for anyone 
wanting to go in with Mark on'em.

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 10:40:25 AM UTC-5, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
>
> 
> The Clem(entines) feature braze-ons on the aft-facing portion of the 
> seatstays for attaching a wheel lock. Rivendell may have briefly carried 
> these, or planned to, I'm not sure. But they don't currently. And 
> apparently neither does anyone else in the U.S. 
>
>
> http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-Safety-and-Security/Locks/Frame-Locks/Amparo-4850
>
> http://www.starbike.com/en/abus-amparo-4850/
>
>
>
> I was thinking of ordering the lock from a German website, Starbike, if 
> others have had a positive experience with this company. They have the 
> locks for $18.21. But with the shipping minus VAT and the euro exchange, it 
> comes to $45.  If two other Clemsters are interested, the total would be 
> $82, for a cost of about $27 each. Assuming additional domestic shipping of 
> max $8 (probably less) that would be $35, still a $10 savings (I would 
> repackage and send out the locks via USPS). I am also assuming these will 
> work with the Clem braze-on spacing (says "easy screwing to the threaded 
> rear frame" in the catalog copy), but I will check with Rivendell tomorrow. 
> If two Clems commit, I will collect via paypal after they arrive to me so I 
> can calculate exact domestic shipping charges to you. (I don't want to deal 
> with more than two, and the incentives start to dwindle after that anyway.) 
> If there is interest, I will go with the first two to commit to paying up 
> to the $35 (with the understanding I will confirm these locks will work 
> with the bike setup and will order tomorrow). 
>
> Note: This is the version in which the key CAN be removed when the lock is 
> in the open position. The plus is an unauthorized person cannot lock up 
> your wheel and make off with the key. The minus is you don't have the 
> security of never forgetting to have your key. Anyway, they do not offer 
> the other version.
>

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[RBW] Custom Paint: Army Green or Tuxedo Black?

[Fred Craven]

Ok, I'll play. 

There are lots of beautiful black bikes, a lot of beautiful black Rivendells. 
So, I say go green. You can worry about what shade and hue. Definitely cream on 
the head tube because it's a Rivendell and it looks sublime. 

As mentioned above, go for black components. I typically don't think of that 
for Rivs but in this case it meets you description. Now, that tends to move me 
more to a mid-toned olive so you can have more contrast. 

For fun, I really like the idea of a couple bright red "things" because red and 
green are complementary after all. 

Gloss, keep it gloss. 

If you really want it to look good (and don't mind a surprise) leave it in 
Grant and or Joe to decide. Kind of like going into a restraunt and saying 
"chef's choice". Unless you are really good with colors, you can often get a 
better result by letting the so called "experts" tweak your final color.  So, 
"some dark green khaki" might be a good description.  My front door is a Dutch 
green which one might call "Green that's so dark it almost looks black until 
the light hits it just right." 

Best of luck, it will be intriguing to see the final result. 

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[RBW] Re: For Orange Ramboullet owners

[Lungimsam]

There's something about Rambouillets that looks so good. I can't put my 
finger on it. But they have always been my favorite looking model of the 
non-in-production bikes.

If a Ram owner were to just buy a new pair of brakes, would the Tektro 
R559's work on them? Or are they too big? 

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[RBW] shellac on brown tape

[dstein]

It's Sunday and RBW is closed so maybe the group can help me out here.

Does the brown handlebar tape in these Albastache pictures look shellac'd 
to you: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hb3a.htm

I just rewrapped my albastache bars with brown tape but it looks lighter 
than in the website pictures. I want a darker tint brown without getting it 
too shiny, I like the matte look of unfinished handlebar tape. Can't tell 
if the bars in the website look darker because of the photo and my computer 
screen, or if it has a light layer of shellac or two. 


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Re: [RBW] Re: For Orange Ramboullet owners

[mikel66...@juno.com]

a tektro 559 front brake worked on my orange Ram when i needed a caliper to 
open wide enough for a 38mm tire

Protect what matters
Knowing your flood risk and being prepared can help keep your family safe ...
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/568964e7dfb2164e722d8st02duc

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[RBW] shellac on brown tape

[Aaron Young]

I think I see small bits of amber shellac at the ends of the tape (near the
twine and on the right bar end shifter). It's possible with amber shellac
the tape was originally a much lighter color. Tan or gray maybe???

If you have some left over bar take, maybe try a bit of clear or amber
shellac on that to get an idea of what a full treatment might look like.
Clear shellac is a safe way to go at first. It darkens a little. Then if
it's not enough for your taste, then try amber.

Good luck.

Aaron Young
The Dalles, OR

On Sunday, January 3, 2016, dstein > wrote:

> It's Sunday and RBW is closed so maybe the group can help me out here.
>
> Does the brown handlebar tape in these Albastache pictures look shellac'd
> to you: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hb3a.htm
>
> I just rewrapped my albastache bars with brown tape but it looks lighter
> than in the website pictures. I want a darker tint brown without getting it
> too shiny, I like the matte look of unfinished handlebar tape. Can't tell
> if the bars in the website look darker because of the photo and my computer
> screen, or if it has a light layer of shellac or two.
>
>
> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Big bike jinxing- big Clem?

['Mark Etze' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Yes, a 66\67 Sam at the price everyone else pay would be almost perfect. 
However the $500 custom charge to get even a 64 does not thrill me, and it 
still will probably be on the small size.It brings it to the point that you 
may as go to a 69cm AHH.

On Saturday, January 2, 2016 at 3:27:24 PM UTC-5, James Warren wrote:
>
> Do you mean lower price and sold complete? Because if we're just talking 
> frames, the AHH fits what you want. $1000 more than Sam but worth it to get 
> a bike that actually fits someone over 6'5".
>
> -Jim W. (Short at 6'4")
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 2, 2016, at 11:53 AM, "'Mark Etze' via RBW Owners Bunch" <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>
>
> I am disappointed if this is the long rumored tall bike I have been 
> waiting for. I thought they were going to go for more of a roadish bike.
>
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>

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[RBW] Re: Clem Wheel Lock Anyone?

[Dave Johnston]

You might consider adding the matching cable that plugs into it somehow:
http://www.starbike.com/en/abus-amparo-4850-cable/

-Dave J

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 11:22:05 AM UTC-5, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> I was actually able to order mine from a small bike shop down the street 
> for a different bike last year. Only took a couple weeks to get in. Had a 
> problem where the first time it was the wrong spacing for mounting bolts, 
> but, the Abus rep took care of it for me and the shop owner. I'd say it's 
> still worth asking any good local shop because honestly, this is like the 
> smallest one in my city and he still had access to the Abus catalog. 
>
> That said, that's the exact model I got. It works just fine on the Clem 
> indeed. Adds a little weight to the rear end when picking it up to carry in 
> places, but nothing you can really feel on the ride. Add a saddle cable and 
> it's great for running through any bags or helmet you might have for a 
> little added security on longer lock-ups. Nice lock. Worth it for anyone 
> wanting to go in with Mark on'em.
>
> On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 10:40:25 AM UTC-5, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>>
>>
>> 
>> The Clem(entines) feature braze-ons on the aft-facing portion of the 
>> seatstays for attaching a wheel lock. Rivendell may have briefly carried 
>> these, or planned to, I'm not sure. But they don't currently. And 
>> apparently neither does anyone else in the U.S. 
>>
>>
>> http://www.abus.com/eng/Mobile-Security/Bike-Safety-and-Security/Locks/Frame-Locks/Amparo-4850
>>
>> http://www.starbike.com/en/abus-amparo-4850/
>>
>>
>>
>> I was thinking of ordering the lock from a German website, Starbike, if 
>> others have had a positive experience with this company. They have the 
>> locks for $18.21. But with the shipping minus VAT and the euro exchange, it 
>> comes to $45.  If two other Clemsters are interested, the total would be 
>> $82, for a cost of about $27 each. Assuming additional domestic shipping of 
>> max $8 (probably less) that would be $35, still a $10 savings (I would 
>> repackage and send out the locks via USPS). I am also assuming these will 
>> work with the Clem braze-on spacing (says "easy screwing to the threaded 
>> rear frame" in the catalog copy), but I will check with Rivendell tomorrow. 
>> If two Clems commit, I will collect via paypal after they arrive to me so I 
>> can calculate exact domestic shipping charges to you. (I don't want to deal 
>> with more than two, and the incentives start to dwindle after that anyway.) 
>> If there is interest, I will go with the first two to commit to paying up 
>> to the $35 (with the understanding I will confirm these locks will work 
>> with the bike setup and will order tomorrow). 
>>
>> Note: This is the version in which the key CAN be removed when the lock 
>> is in the open position. The plus is an unauthorized person cannot lock up 
>> your wheel and make off with the key. The minus is you don't have the 
>> security of never forgetting to have your key. Anyway, they do not offer 
>> the other version.
>>
>

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[RBW] FS: HERON Touring 55cm complete build

[MartyG]

Designed and offered by Rivendell in the late 90s. A really gorgeous bike 
that is too small for me, and too tall for my wife. I purchased this 
recently from the family of the original owner. Reynolds 531 frameset. No 
dents or damage, very few scuffs. No rust of any kind. Paint and graphics 
are impressively well preserved - beautiful in the full sun today! Eclectic 
high-end parts mix includes TA Zephyr triple fitted to a Campagnolo BB, 
Phil/XTR hubs laced to CR-18 36 hole rims. American Classic seatpost in 
27.2. Avocet touring saddle. Tange roller bearing headset, Nitto rando bars 
and stem. Shimano brakes. Sachs rear derailer, Suntour up front. All new 
cables and housing. Silver downtube shifters are funtional, but may need 
work. You may prefer bar-ends anyway. Tires (Panaracer Pasella) hold air 
but should be replaced. WIll fit 38s and fenders. Really wish it was my 
size. Asking $1,250.00. 

See the pics in the Flickr set below, and feel free to ask questions. Can 
arrange free pick-up or delivery in the Baltimore/Washington area, 
otherwise I will split shipping 50/50 to the US lower 48 only. 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/32306142@N07/albums/72157661387558919

Thanks for looking!

Marty



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[RBW] Re: Fix broken connector on Luxos U?

[Anton Tutter]

Here are before and after photos of Anne's Luxos.  I'm posting this here 
because this is a very common problem and one that everyone who owns a 
Luxos should be aware of. The defect is a poor connector design which is 
not properly strain relieved and very prone to snapping in half. Once this 
happens, there is no way to connect wires to the light. On Anne's light, 
one terminal was snapped off, and another was hanging by a thread. One 
gentle tug and it snapped off. The solution is to remove the stubs of the 
broken terminals and solder new ones in their place, or replace the 
terminals with wires that extend out the back of the light. I installed new 
terminals.

This light will be on its way back to Anne shortly. 

Anton
velolumino.com







On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 9:55:04 PM UTC-4, Anton Tutter wrote:
>
> Anne, this is a common problem with B&M lights. It is caused by a poor 
> terminal design.
>
> It is repairable but you need to have the correct terminal to replace the 
> broken one. If you're not comfortable DIYing it, send me your light and I'm 
> happy to repair it for the cost to ship it back to you.
>
> Anton
> velolumino.com
> somervillebikes.wordpress.com
>
>
> On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 12:05:18 AM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:
>>
>> My bike got home from New Mexico just fine, except that the shop that 
>> packed up my bike didn't detach my Luxos U from the handlebars, and 
>> one of the little connectors, the tabs that connect the light to the 
>> dynamo wire, got broken off. Is there a way to fix this? I don't want 
>> to have to replace the whole expensive light just because a teeny 
>> piece of metal is broken. Is it possible to take the light apart and 
>> solder on a new connector? 
>>
>> -- 
>> -- Anne Paulson 
>>
>> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Fix broken connector on Luxos U?

[Anne Paulson]

Thank you a million times, Anton!

On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 11:23 AM, Anton Tutter  wrote:

> Here are before and after photos of Anne's Luxos.  I'm posting this here
> because this is a very common problem and one that everyone who owns a
> Luxos should be aware of. The defect is a poor connector design which is
> not properly strain relieved and very prone to snapping in half. Once this
> happens, there is no way to connect wires to the light. On Anne's light,
> one terminal was snapped off, and another was hanging by a thread. One
> gentle tug and it snapped off. The solution is to remove the stubs of the
> broken terminals and solder new ones in their place, or replace the
> terminals with wires that extend out the back of the light. I installed new
> terminals.
>
> This light will be on its way back to Anne shortly.
>
> Anton
> velolumino.com
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
> On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 9:55:04 PM UTC-4, Anton Tutter wrote:
>>
>> Anne, this is a common problem with B&M lights. It is caused by a poor
>> terminal design.
>>
>> It is repairable but you need to have the correct terminal to replace the
>> broken one. If you're not comfortable DIYing it, send me your light and I'm
>> happy to repair it for the cost to ship it back to you.
>>
>> Anton
>> velolumino.com
>> somervillebikes.wordpress.com
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 12:05:18 AM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:
>>>
>>> My bike got home from New Mexico just fine, except that the shop that
>>> packed up my bike didn't detach my Luxos U from the handlebars, and
>>> one of the little connectors, the tabs that connect the light to the
>>> dynamo wire, got broken off. Is there a way to fix this? I don't want
>>> to have to replace the whole expensive light just because a teeny
>>> piece of metal is broken. Is it possible to take the light apart and
>>> solder on a new connector?
>>>
>>> --
>>> -- Anne Paulson
>>>
>>> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride.
>>>
>> --
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-- 
-- Anne Paulson

It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride.

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[RBW] shellac on brown tape

[drew]

i also sort of doubt that that was brown tape. Gray or orange with several 
Amber coats is my guess. Anyway, to second the motion, adding clear over amber, 
or vice versa, gives a lot of tonal range

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[RBW] Re: shellac on brown tape

[Zed Martinez]

Consult the shellac color ranges on the Newbaum's page for reference on how 
the different colors look with 
shellac: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/gt1.htm In my experience, orange 
tape covered in amber shellac is the best match for the brown of Brooks 
saddles, and the maroon with amber matches the rust C17 the best. My last 
bar got that 'matte' look like in the picture after a few months of riding 
it once my hands and rain had worn the glossy shellac off and left more of 
just the stained tape itself, but, that was also my first shellacked bar so 
not sure if that result is typical.

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 1:02:30 PM UTC-5, dstein wrote:
>
> It's Sunday and RBW is closed so maybe the group can help me out here.
>
> Does the brown handlebar tape in these Albastache pictures look shellac'd 
> to you: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hb3a.htm
>
> I just rewrapped my albastache bars with brown tape but it looks lighter 
> than in the website pictures. I want a darker tint brown without getting it 
> too shiny, I like the matte look of unfinished handlebar tape. Can't tell 
> if the bars in the website look darker because of the photo and my computer 
> screen, or if it has a light layer of shellac or two. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: For Orange Ramboullet owners

[bo richardson]

i love my paul racer brakes on my ram
i really love the ram and the paul racer brakes are the ah upgrade

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 9:47:17 AM UTC-8, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> There's something about Rambouillets that looks so good. I can't put my 
> finger on it. But they have always been my favorite looking model of the 
> non-in-production bikes.
>
> If a Ram owner were to just buy a new pair of brakes, would the Tektro 
> R559's work on them? Or are they too big? 
>

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[RBW] Re: For Orange Ramboullet owners

[ted]

Do you use Paul Racer M brakes or the longer reach Racers?
I thought the Rambouillets were built for 47-57 ish brakes (e.g. Tektro 
539, Racer M), not the 55-73 ish variety (e.g. Tektro 559, Racer).

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 12:05:57 PM UTC-8, bo richardson wrote:
>
> i love my paul racer brakes on my ram
> i really love the ram and the paul racer brakes are the ah upgrade
>
> On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 9:47:17 AM UTC-8, Lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> There's something about Rambouillets that looks so good. I can't put my 
>> finger on it. But they have always been my favorite looking model of the 
>> non-in-production bikes.
>>
>> If a Ram owner were to just buy a new pair of brakes, would the Tektro 
>> R559's work on them? Or are they too big? 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

[Dave Johnston]

You might consider moving the brake hood up further on the handlebar. Hate 
to see you mess up that nice tape job though. I run them so the bottom tip 
of the brake lever is about a 1/4" above a straight line from the drop 
portion of the bar. 
I found this example of what I mean on google:
http://i.stack.imgur.com/5zifk.jpg

This is an issue of personal taste though


On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 2:28:49 PM UTC-5, Donald Funke wrote:
>
> I have the 38mm compass tires on the Hilsen. It's pretty comfortable. I 
> have a 7cm stem on it and it feels a bit of a reach, even with the seat all 
> the way forward, to get on the brake hoods where I spend most of my time. I 
> agree with the whole planing idea. It does not feel like planing. With all 
> my gear it's 33.5 #. 
>
>
> On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 6:04:57 PM UTC-7, Donald Funke wrote:
>>
>> I have a 63cm Homer that I enjoy riding for many different surfaces. I 
>> have been getting into doing Brevets and considering swapping for a 60cm 
>> Rambouillet. The 60cm would fit a bit better and it looks like the geometry 
>> is a bit more roady. I like the ability to ride 38s with fenders, but it 
>> does at times feel a bit "bulky". Any thoughts? They are both in excellent 
>> condition BTW. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

[ted]

>From looking at that photo, I think you might find a 60cm frame a bit small 
if you want drop bars that high.
Though the Rambouillet is a bit lighter / sportier than the AHH I suspect 
that just changing frames won't make your 33+ pound rig seem much less 
bulky. I doubt the frame weights differ by more than a pound or two.
If you are referring to Jan Heine styled "planning", that is usually 
associated with standard diameter extra light gauge tubing frames. I don't 
think any Rivs fit that bill.

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 11:28:49 AM UTC-8, Donald Funke wrote:
>
> I have the 38mm compass tires on the Hilsen. It's pretty comfortable. I 
> have a 7cm stem on it and it feels a bit of a reach, even with the seat all 
> the way forward, to get on the brake hoods where I spend most of my time. I 
> agree with the whole planing idea. It does not feel like planing. With all 
> my gear it's 33.5 #. 
>
>
> On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 6:04:57 PM UTC-7, Donald Funke wrote:
>>
>> I have a 63cm Homer that I enjoy riding for many different surfaces. I 
>> have been getting into doing Brevets and considering swapping for a 60cm 
>> Rambouillet. The 60cm would fit a bit better and it looks like the geometry 
>> is a bit more roady. I like the ability to ride 38s with fenders, but it 
>> does at times feel a bit "bulky". Any thoughts? They are both in excellent 
>> condition BTW. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

[Lungimsam]

Rotate the brake hoods up higher on the ramps and you could get them a 
couple cm's closer I would bet.

Like this:
 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/70237737@N00/17361887561/in/album-72157651929761689/

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

[John Hawrylak]

Hi Don

Besides moving the brake levers higher as others hve suggested, here are 2 
more to consider
1.  try a zero offset seatpost.  it will move you closer t the bar.  You 
need to check your knee vs pedal
2.  try 1 6cm stem to move the bars closer

If these do not work, your TT is  likely too long.

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 2:28:49 PM UTC-5, Donald Funke wrote:

> I have the 38mm compass tires on the Hilsen. It's pretty comfortable. I 
> have a 7cm stem on it and it feels a bit of a reach, even with the seat all 
> the way forward, to get on the brake hoods where I spend most of my time. I 
> agree with the whole planing idea. It does not feel like planing. With all 
> my gear it's 33.5 #. 
>
>
> On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 6:04:57 PM UTC-7, Donald Funke wrote:
>>
>> I have a 63cm Homer that I enjoy riding for many different surfaces. I 
>> have been getting into doing Brevets and considering swapping for a 60cm 
>> Rambouillet. The 60cm would fit a bit better and it looks like the geometry 
>> is a bit more roady. I like the ability to ride 38s with fenders, but it 
>> does at times feel a bit "bulky". Any thoughts? They are both in excellent 
>> condition BTW. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Fix broken connector on Luxos U?

[John Hawrylak]

Anton

Are the photos missing??

John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ


On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 8:55:04 PM UTC-5, Anton Tutter wrote:

> Anne, this is a common problem with B&M lights. It is caused by a poor 
> terminal design.
>
> It is repairable but you need to have the correct terminal to replace the 
> broken one. If you're not comfortable DIYing it, send me your light and I'm 
> happy to repair it for the cost to ship it back to you.
>
> Anton
> velolumino.com
> somervillebikes.wordpress.com
>
>
> On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 12:05:18 AM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:
>>
>> My bike got home from New Mexico just fine, except that the shop that 
>> packed up my bike didn't detach my Luxos U from the handlebars, and 
>> one of the little connectors, the tabs that connect the light to the 
>> dynamo wire, got broken off. Is there a way to fix this? I don't want 
>> to have to replace the whole expensive light just because a teeny 
>> piece of metal is broken. Is it possible to take the light apart and 
>> solder on a new connector? 
>>
>> -- 
>> -- Anne Paulson 
>>
>> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Fix broken connector on Luxos U?

[Anton Tutter]

Why yes they are... oops!









On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 4:19:25 PM UTC-5, John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> Anton
>
> Are the photos missing??
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
>
> On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 8:55:04 PM UTC-5, Anton Tutter wrote:
>
>> Anne, this is a common problem with B&M lights. It is caused by a poor 
>> terminal design.
>>
>> It is repairable but you need to have the correct terminal to replace the 
>> broken one. If you're not comfortable DIYing it, send me your light and I'm 
>> happy to repair it for the cost to ship it back to you.
>>
>> Anton
>> velolumino.com
>> somervillebikes.wordpress.com
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 12:05:18 AM UTC-4, Anne Paulson wrote:
>>>
>>> My bike got home from New Mexico just fine, except that the shop that 
>>> packed up my bike didn't detach my Luxos U from the handlebars, and 
>>> one of the little connectors, the tabs that connect the light to the 
>>> dynamo wire, got broken off. Is there a way to fix this? I don't want 
>>> to have to replace the whole expensive light just because a teeny 
>>> piece of metal is broken. Is it possible to take the light apart and 
>>> solder on a new connector? 
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> -- Anne Paulson 
>>>
>>> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

[Will]

So put a 5cm stem on and move the seat forward a bit. Also... I couldn't 
tell from the picture... does that front fender has QR?

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 1:28:49 PM UTC-6, Donald Funke wrote:
>
> I have the 38mm compass tires on the Hilsen. It's pretty comfortable. I 
> have a 7cm stem on it and it feels a bit of a reach, even with the seat all 
> the way forward, to get on the brake hoods where I spend most of my time. I 
> agree with the whole planing idea. It does not feel like planing. With all 
> my gear it's 33.5 #. 
>
>
> On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 6:04:57 PM UTC-7, Donald Funke wrote:
>>
>> I have a 63cm Homer that I enjoy riding for many different surfaces. I 
>> have been getting into doing Brevets and considering swapping for a 60cm 
>> Rambouillet. The 60cm would fit a bit better and it looks like the geometry 
>> is a bit more roady. I like the ability to ride 38s with fenders, but it 
>> does at times feel a bit "bulky". Any thoughts? They are both in excellent 
>> condition BTW. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

[Justin August]

You could/should also try a bar with shorter reach. Something like the 
Nitto x Fair-weather MOD 174 
bar: http://store.fairweather.cc/store/p26/MOD174_ALL_ROAD_BAR_by_NITTO.html

Shorter reach, similar shape to the Noodle beside the stem, usable drops.

-J

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 1:32:41 PM UTC-8, Will wrote:
>
> So put a 5cm stem on and move the seat forward a bit. Also... I couldn't 
> tell from the picture... does that front fender has QR?
>
> On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 1:28:49 PM UTC-6, Donald Funke wrote:
>>
>> I have the 38mm compass tires on the Hilsen. It's pretty comfortable. I 
>> have a 7cm stem on it and it feels a bit of a reach, even with the seat all 
>> the way forward, to get on the brake hoods where I spend most of my time. I 
>> agree with the whole planing idea. It does not feel like planing. With all 
>> my gear it's 33.5 #. 
>>
>>
>> On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 6:04:57 PM UTC-7, Donald Funke wrote:
>>>
>>> I have a 63cm Homer that I enjoy riding for many different surfaces. I 
>>> have been getting into doing Brevets and considering swapping for a 60cm 
>>> Rambouillet. The 60cm would fit a bit better and it looks like the geometry 
>>> is a bit more roady. I like the ability to ride 38s with fenders, but it 
>>> does at times feel a bit "bulky". Any thoughts? They are both in excellent 
>>> condition BTW. 
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Rear fender mounting. Was: Christmas Clementine

[Anton Tutter]

Not much to add here, but did anyone say spacers?

Here's how I achieved an acceptable fender line on my Bike Friday. The 
kickstand plate had a threaded bore for a fender mount but you could park a 
Cadillac in the space between it and the fender.

Anton
velolumino.com



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[RBW] Paul brakes recommendation

[dstein]

I have the CX70 brakes with kool stop salmon pads on my 26" hunq (which is 
currently running a 650b wheelset with the brake pads all the way at the 
top position) and the brakes have always felt too squishy to me, even just 
after picking the bike up new from Rivendell, and it certainly hasn't help 
that I've fiddled with them so much over time. 

Would V brakes like the Motolite or Minimoto work on the cantiliver bosses? 
They seem to get very positive reviews. Clearance seems to be an issue. Or 
would Paul Touring Canti or Neo Rretro brakes make more sense for this 
frame and wheelset/tire choices (and if so is there really an advantage of 
Paul canti's vs. the Shimano's)?  

I'm using Shimano road brake levers on Albastache bars. 650b x 42mm compass 
tires, though I am thinking of going with the  rat trap passes and going 
back to the 26" wheelset.

Or can someone school me in how get my CX70's nice and tight so I don't 
need to look at other options (I've tried a LBS for adjustments and that 
didn't seem to help).

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

[Reid]

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 12:52:35 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>
> If you are referring to Jan Heine styled "planning", that is usually 
> associated with standard diameter extra light gauge tubing frames. I don't 
> think any Rivs fit that bill.
>

 Maybe not in the current line-up? My Romulus definitely "planes". None of 
my other bikes do at all, so it's quite apparent on the Rom.

Reid

 
>

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[RBW] FS- Nitto big back rack, noodles, Racktime, Osprey, Sackville med saddlesack, 2 WTB saddles

[Bruce Smitham]

For sale are a few items I won't be needing:

1.) Nitto Big Back Rack large 33R for 700c wheels. Excellent condition. 
Mounted once or twice with little to no use. $150 plus shipping
2.) Nitto Noodle handlebars 44cm in great condition. Some minor scratches 
from mounting. $40 plus shipping
3.) Rivendell Sackville medium saddlesack in great condition. Only used 2 
times. Some rub marks on the leather underneath were it touches the rack 
$165 plus shipping
4.) Racktime by Tubus front rack in great condition $35 plus shipping
5.) New WTB Pure V saddle $35 plus shipping
6.) New WTB  Pure V saddle $35 plus shipping
7.) New Osprey Talon 22 backpack. Orange with all tags and never used. $65 
plus shipping

Pictures are here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskmHM6Hz 

Shipping CONUS only and paypal "friends & family" prefered for payment. 
Free local pick up

Thanks,

Bruce in San Diego

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

[Patrick Moore]

Aieee! Don't use your saddle to adjust reach! The saddle ought to go where
it ought to go for comfort and efficiency, and everything else situated
with respect to the saddle. I daresay it won't plane if your saddle is in
the wrong place!

I know whereof I speak! Attend to me, children, and learn wisdom. Long,
long ago, I bought my first good road bike, a 1989 *tout 531C* Falcon (tout
Sante', too!). Although I had ridden enthusiastically long before this, I
had only recently begun to read up on the "scientific" bits about bike fit
and cadence and so on -- I think it was about this time I started to read
*Bicycling.* You get the idea.

Anyway, I read about KOPS. I have short femurs. I like a high saddle. I
added (1), (2), and (3) together and ended up with a replacement mountain
bike seatpost for more height, the saddle (original Flite) all the way
*forward* on the rails, and a 140 mm stem.

3 problems. 1) The saddle would slip in the cradle (Logic sp, basically the
Nitto that Riv still sells). But it would slip *forward* and I had to
resort to blue Loctite to keep the cradle still.

2) No torque: I was a young and fit 35, and could move fast even with a
very inefficient position, and I was a 120 rpm spinner at the time, but I
could feel the inefficiency as my foot went over the top of the stroke --
no torque!

3) Lastly, handling was horrible, especially on windy, fast downhill
sweepers. The frame was designed for a rear weight bias -- very short
front-center, long stays -- and I would skip the rear tire when I stood on
hills; and I was scared to go much over 30 mph on downhill curves. And I
daresay that, properly set up, this frame would have suited my physique and
style well.

At any rate, some time after this, Grant told me: Get thee they saddle
back, and raise thy bar and bring thy bar back. And this was done. And LO!
Torque and comfort were realized, with much rejoicing amongst the people.

On Sat, Jan 2, 2016 at 1:23 PM, Donald Funke  wrote:

> I have the 38mm compass tires on the Hilsen. It's pretty comfortable. I
> have a 7cm stem on it and it feels a bit of a reach, even with the seat all
> the way forward, to get on the brake hoods where I spend most of my time. I
> agree with the whole planing idea. It does not feel like planing. With all
> my gear it's 33.5 #.
>
>
> On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 6:04:57 PM UTC-7, Donald Funke wrote:
>>
>> I have a 63cm Homer that I enjoy riding for many different surfaces. I
>> have been getting into doing Brevets and considering swapping for a 60cm
>> Rambouillet. The 60cm would fit a bit better and it looks like the geometry
>> is a bit more roady. I like the ability to ride 38s with fenders, but it
>> does at times feel a bit "bulky". Any thoughts? They are both in excellent
>> condition BTW.
>>
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**
**
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities
revolve. *Chuang Tzu

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*Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle

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[RBW] Clem Wheel Lock Anyone?

[Minh]

Mark.  

If you can't work out something, I have one of these from when velo orange sold 
them, not sure if the spacing will work on the Clem but would be happy to 
measure for you.  I'm not using it at the moment but would sell it to you for 
not too much.  Let me know offline if you are interested.  

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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

[Michael Hechmer]

I have no experience with the CX 70, and very little with V brakes.  I did 
have a pair of earlier Shimano cantis, mated to Ultegra brifters, and lots 
of experience with Paul's brakes, and accessories.

The Shimono cantis I had were a precursor to the present offering, model 
550 or something?  The setup was difficult and the stopping was awful. 
 Salmon pads and Tektro levers improved both  the setup and performance to 
average.  

My wife briefly had a bike with V brakes, which gave me some familiarity. 
 Everyone I know who has V brakes speaks highly of their performance but 
keep in mind they were designed to stop a mt. bike on a single track 
downhill, i.e. low speed, low weight, and steep descent.  Traditional road 
touring bikes use cantis, which were designed to stop hi mass and hi speed 
bikes.

I have Paul's Racer M's on my Ram, Racers on our tandem, and Neo-retros on 
my Saluki.  By far I prefer the Neo-retros.  All of these brakes work very 
well.  It's hard for me to compare the braking performance of a tandem and 
single bike as there is just too many variables to consider, but if I had 
to pick one brake it would be the neos.  They offer fantastic power and 
optimal tire / fender clearance.  They do get rather grimy because cantis 
sit below the fenders.

Many people find the Paul's difficult to set-up, but I believe that is 
because they are thinking in Shimano.  The first couple of times can feel 
confusing, despite good directions on the website, but after a couple of 
times it feel pretty intuitive and goes in a straightforward way.  I find 
it helpful with cantis to have a QR on the lever and a good barrel adjuster 
to fine tune the final set-up.

I literally owe my life to my neo retros so I am without apology,  biased.

Michael


On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 5:07:30 PM UTC-5, dstein wrote:
>
> I have the CX70 brakes with kool stop salmon pads on my 26" hunq (which is 
> currently running a 650b wheelset with the brake pads all the way at the 
> top position) and the brakes have always felt too squishy to me, even just 
> after picking the bike up new from Rivendell, and it certainly hasn't help 
> that I've fiddled with them so much over time. 
>
> Would V brakes like the Motolite or Minimoto work on the cantiliver 
> bosses? They seem to get very positive reviews. Clearance seems to be an 
> issue. Or would Paul Touring Canti or Neo Rretro brakes make more sense for 
> this frame and wheelset/tire choices (and if so is there really an 
> advantage of Paul canti's vs. the Shimano's)?  
>
> I'm using Shimano road brake levers on Albastache bars. 650b x 42mm 
> compass tires, though I am thinking of going with the  rat trap passes and 
> going back to the 26" wheelset.
>
> Or can someone school me in how get my CX70's nice and tight so I don't 
> need to look at other options (I've tried a LBS for adjustments and that 
> didn't seem to help).
>

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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

[Brian Campbell]

I have had Paul Canti's (Neo Retro & touring) as well as Paul Racer 
Centerpulls. None (in my opinion) stop as well as a set Shimano XTR V 
brakes I am using on a 1989 Trek mountain bike. The V brakes were much 
easier to set up and adjust. Again, all opinion, but opinion borne from 
actual experience. I would not, willingly, use cantilever brakes again.

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[RBW] FS: HERON Touring 55cm complete build

[Pondero]

Wow...that's pretty!  Since it fits 38s plus fenders, would this be comparable 
to a canti Hilsen in the least?  Would it be stouter since it is designed as a 
touring bike?

Although this bike would fit me, I could not get away with bringing another one 
into the house anytime soon.  I'm just hoping a little banter will help someone 
realize the potential here.

Chris Johnson
Sanger, Texas

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[RBW] FS: Rivish clothing, all MUSA, Filson, Selvedge, Marweather, Pointer

[drew]

though not from rivendell, i think these share similar aesthetic 
sensibilities and high quality. all are in excellent condition. all made in 
the usa. most of these things were gifts that never quite fit me right. 

Filson jacket- olive green waxed canvas, lots of pockets, storm flap, 
recessed cuffs, moleskin collar. really beautiful and sturdy jacket. size 
medium (full disclosure- this may be a women's jacket, since the buttons 
are on the wrong side. my wife pointed this out to me. however, it fits 
like a men's medium, though im told men's mediums by filson fit like xxl. 
stylistically, it is unnoticeable. i get compliments whenever i wear it.) 
90$ shipped

Pointer brand chore coat- denim, shawl collar, 2 pockets. worn a couple of 
times -40$ shipped

Apolis jeans- white oak cone selvedge denim. 32w. new with tags. info HERE 
  
 100$ shipped

Apolis jeans- white oak cone selvedge denim. 33w. worn a couple of times, 
rinsed once  75$ shipped

Marweather superior cap in natural waxed canvas. worn once maybe info HERE 
  80$ shipped (i feel 
stupid asking 80$ for a cap, but they retail for 150$, and its basically 
new. shoot me an offer if its out of line)

pictures coming. 

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[RBW] Re: Torque!

[JohnS]

Hello Patrick,

I think you've hit the hail on the head when you say you need to pace 
yourself accurately when fixed gear riding. I try to do the same when I'm 
on my QB, trying to balance pushing it up hills in my cruising gear or 
using the low gear so that I feel I've gotten a good work out in, without 
being exhausted. What I'm also finding is that I have more sit down 
strength than I when I started riding the QB this past spring. Down hills 
require a lot more concentration than a free wheel bike, making sure I keep 
control as I spin out the gear is challenging, so it's not as much fun. 
What I really enjoy are those fleeting moments when on a slight down hill 
or flat with a tail wind, where I can push the cruising gear, but not spin 
it out. 

You're '99 Joe Gofast looks like a great ride. Front brake only, I guess 
you're good a back pedaling to control your speed. Myself, I have to 
use both front and rear brakes since my knees can't deal with the stress of 
back pedaling. I'm not familiar with that bike. How is the chain tension 
taken up? I don't see horizontal drop outs in the picture.

Thanks,
JohnS


On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 5:23:35 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:

> I "just rode" this afternoon, the qualifyer "just" because I had to wait 
> for daughter and friend at the skating rink at the top of Tramway, and had 
> only an hour or so to ride. So I took the '99 Joe Gofast 4 miles down the 
> hill to the Casino where the road splits into 4 lanes, and turned around 
> and cranked back up.
>
> 76" gear all of the way!! I do have a 66" granny on the flip side, but I 
> didn't use it. No huge tailwind, either. About a half mile total sitting, 
> the rest standing. Cadence dropped to 30 rpm or so, I am sure, on the 
> steepest mile.
>
> I'm chuffed! I realize that this is a very, very*, very* minor 
> accomplishment, but it was *great fun!* I really do like climbing better 
> than descending -- especially when I can't coast, but even with a coaster. 
>
> One great skill one learns after riding fixed for a long time is, how to 
> pace yourself accurately. I was working hard on the steepest section, but I 
> was by no means exhausted at the top, and in fact I added another few 
> rolling miles thereafter.
>
> Every so often I think I'll convert the gofast to multispeed, or add 
> fenders or rack or whatnot, but a little ride like this always, *always* 
> reassures 
> me that I'm right to have at least one "do nothing but go (relatively) 
> fast" bike.
>
> Funny, I think descending -- retarding speed -- is harder on my quads than 
> climbing.
>
> Anyway, Alhamdu lilah, a very pleasant, if very brief, excursion.
>
> excursion
> 
> [ik-skur-zhuh n, -shuh n] 
> Spell Syllables
>
>- Examples
>- Word Origin
>
> noun
> 1.
> a short trip or outing to some place, usually for a special purpose and 
> with the intention of a prompt return:
> a pleasure excursion; a scientific excursion.
> Gofast shown with utterly lovable Compass Elk Pass tires and a custom 
> Banzer Bag.
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities 
> revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivish clothing, all MUSA, Filson, Selvedge, Marweather, Pointer

[drew]

OK photos are HERE 


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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

[JohnS]

Hello Brian,

I have to agree, the XTR V-brakes from that period where amazing. Their 
parallelogram design allowed the brake pads to engage the 
rim perpendicularly, without arching. But I prefer the looks of long arm 
canti's and they brake well enough for me.

JohnS

 

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 5:07:30 PM UTC-5, dstein wrote:

> I have the CX70 brakes with kool stop salmon pads on my 26" hunq (which is 
> currently running a 650b wheelset with the brake pads all the way at the 
> top position) and the brakes have always felt too squishy to me, even just 
> after picking the bike up new from Rivendell, and it certainly hasn't help 
> that I've fiddled with them so much over time. 
>
> Would V brakes like the Motolite or Minimoto work on the cantiliver 
> bosses? They seem to get very positive reviews. Clearance seems to be an 
> issue. Or would Paul Touring Canti or Neo Rretro brakes make more sense for 
> this frame and wheelset/tire choices (and if so is there really an 
> advantage of Paul canti's vs. the Shimano's)?  
>
> I'm using Shimano road brake levers on Albastache bars. 650b x 42mm 
> compass tires, though I am thinking of going with the  rat trap passes and 
> going back to the 26" wheelset.
>
> Or can someone school me in how get my CX70's nice and tight so I don't 
> need to look at other options (I've tried a LBS for adjustments and that 
> didn't seem to help).
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sunrace 'one at a time'

[Robert]

Yes I agree with Kai. I made the original comment, but I meant a slight 
adjustment to my shifting style, i.e. just a little bit of a learning curve 
to avoid the unintentional shifting issue I was describing earlier in my 
comment. 

On Monday, December 28, 2015 at 4:46:28 PM UTC-5, Kainalu wrote:
>
> The clicks are very close together, so you do settle in one click at a 
> time in one direction, but it's smooth friction in the other direction, 
> same as the cheapies I expect. As for adjusted riding styles, I think 
> adjusted shifting styles is more like it, and a mild adjustment at that. 
> -Kai 
> Brooklyn NY 

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Re: [RBW] Christmas Clementine

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

Yes -- the cable stops aren't well located for the pulley idea. And thanks, 
all!  Happy New Year!



> On Jan 3, 2016, at 4:45 AM, Tom Harrop  wrote:
> 
> That is magic, well done. So you went for v-brakes over the cantis and pulley 
> that were discussed earlier?
> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: White Industries, Velocity 700C Wheelset

[Allingham II, Thomas J]

Could you repost original offer?



On Jan 2, 2016, at 7:59 PM, Johnny Alien 
mailto:johnnyal...@verizon.net>> wrote:

Anyone interested at $270 shipped?

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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

[Clayton.sf]

Campy cantis with salmon pads. Best ever. Paul vbrakes don't have the 
modulation IMO. They stop but they are off or on, not good for dirt. The CX70 
are great though! Have you tried messing with straddle wires. Also, mushy feel 
does not mean bad braking. 

Clayton Scott,
SF, CA

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[RBW] Re: Torque!

[Lungimsam]

Patrick, if you have the time and desire, could you give us some close up shots 
of your bike? I love that blue color. What is it called? Thanks for your 
consideration.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sunrace 'one at a time'

[Robert]

I wanted to clarify my comment a little more, because it's a little 
confusing to talk about and I think this will help. I found this review on 
Amazon that kinda gets at the issue I'm trying to identify:

The main issue is the internal friction of the mechanism. I have noticed 
> that the shifter hangs up in the spaces between the detents, so when the 
> rider is done downshifting (up into lower gears/bigger cogs) the cable 
> doesn't pull the lever back down to the "click", preventing the rear 
> derailleur from centering under your cog of choice. Can work if you fiddle 
> with the shifter after you make a shift. The "tension" bolt on top serves 
> only to introduce play into the stiff mechanism. This negates the 
> simplicity of the above-bar thumb shifter.


Now, the "fiddling" required is the learning curve for these shifters. It 
sounds bad, but it's really not that bad. This person gave the shifter a 
1/5 star rating in their review. I would give it a 4/5. Conversely, the 
advantage to the "click" is you never get the slippage (to a higher gear) 
you can sometimes get with regular friction shifters when downshifting. My 
drivetrain has been pretty forgiving with these shifters, i.e; if the 
derailleur isn't getting perfectly centered, it's not affecting my ride. My 
bike is smooth and silent when I ride. 



On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 10:15:14 PM UTC-5, Robert wrote:
>
> Yes I agree with Kai. I made the original comment, but I meant a slight 
> adjustment to my shifting style, i.e. just a little bit of a learning curve 
> to avoid the unintentional shifting issue I was describing earlier in my 
> comment. 
>
> On Monday, December 28, 2015 at 4:46:28 PM UTC-5, Kainalu wrote:
>>
>> The clicks are very close together, so you do settle in one click at a 
>> time in one direction, but it's smooth friction in the other direction, 
>> same as the cheapies I expect. As for adjusted riding styles, I think 
>> adjusted shifting styles is more like it, and a mild adjustment at that. 
>> -Kai 
>> Brooklyn NY 
>
>

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[RBW] Clem Wheel Lock Anyone?

[Lungimsam]

Are these meant to keep the bike from being stolen, or just the wheel?
Seems like someone could just toss the bike in their truck and go, or lift the 
bike from the saddle and roll it away.

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[RBW] Clem Wheel Lock Anyone?

[Lungimsam]

Ps I have a nice Chinese one that they key is removable. I use it as a wheel 
lock or a handy lock for a rental truck door on that heavy metal latch on the 
back.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivish clothing, all MUSA, Filson, Selvedge, Marweather, Pointer

[drew]

forgot to add that the pointer coat is a size small but fits like a medium. 
 and here are the pant measurements. 
32w- 32in waist, 33 inseam, 12 rise. 
33w-33.5-34in waist, 34 inseam, 12 rise. 

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[RBW] FS: HERON Touring 55cm complete build

[Lungimsam]

What's the stand over height?
I'm in Howard County, fellow east coaster!
But I'm not in the market right now.
What a nice looking bike.

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[RBW] Re: Clem Wheel Lock Anyone?

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I park in front of my market a lot and only sometimes do I bother locking, 
especially if I have a bike like my Big Dummy. But having a wheel lock 
would be just the thing for popping in. I'm not in an area that is plagued 
with truck drive bys (yet--knock wood) but would hate to lose my Clementine 
to a crime of opportunity. Just seems like a handy feature for a town bike 
and for quick in out stuff. (There is also a big plate glass window and the 
bike is visible.)

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 10:47:27 PM UTC-5, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Are these meant to keep the bike from being stolen, or just the wheel?
> Seems like someone could just toss the bike in their truck and go, or lift 
> the bike from the saddle and roll it away.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

[David Stein]

Clayton - the cx70's have the cable carrier which has a set straddle angle
and height. would it be wise to try a straddle wire in its place to mess
with the height and adjustment?

I'm also wondering if the 650b setup is a good idea for brake placement. I
can position the pads at the highest setting to reach the 650b rims, but is
more at the bottom of the rim rather than the middle or top of the rim like
when it was a 26" rim. Does that play into how it brakes?

I'm also coming off a week on a road bike with disc brakes which isn't
helping ;)

On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 7:40 PM, Clayton.sf  wrote:

> Campy cantis with salmon pads. Best ever. Paul vbrakes don't have the
> modulation IMO. They stop but they are off or on, not good for dirt. The
> CX70 are great though! Have you tried messing with straddle wires. Also,
> mushy feel does not mean bad braking.
>
> Clayton Scott,
> SF, CA
>
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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Squishy brakes can mean two things. Either the cable and housing isn't done 
"tightly", or you have powerful brakes. If the latter, it's a good thing. 
If the former, switching out the brakes won't help. I've personally found 
that with low-profile cantilevers that are set up correctly and have good 
pads, power isn't something I worry about (and I do live in the mountainous 
SF bay area). Yes, even the old Shimano cantilever brakes such as the 
BR-M561 can be set up to provide more than adequate power, even if they are 
a bit finicky.

Regardless, if you want to change to V-brakes, you'll need to change to 
V-brake compatible levers or find a set of "Travel Agents" to accommodate 
the cable pull discrepancy. I do recommend, as a personal bias towards 
reducing unnecessary cost and fiddling-to-learn, to study online guides on 
how to best tweak your existing CX70 brakes to your liking. Cantilevers are 
such an "off" thing nowadays, that I suspect the LBS wrenches you've 
approached may be better at disc brake adjustments instead.


On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 2:07:30 PM UTC-8, dstein wrote:
>
> I have the CX70 brakes with kool stop salmon pads on my 26" hunq (which is 
> currently running a 650b wheelset with the brake pads all the way at the 
> top position) and the brakes have always felt too squishy to me, even just 
> after picking the bike up new from Rivendell, and it certainly hasn't help 
> that I've fiddled with them so much over time. 
>
> Would V brakes like the Motolite or Minimoto work on the cantiliver 
> bosses? They seem to get very positive reviews. Clearance seems to be an 
> issue. Or would Paul Touring Canti or Neo Rretro brakes make more sense for 
> this frame and wheelset/tire choices (and if so is there really an 
> advantage of Paul canti's vs. the Shimano's)?  
>
> I'm using Shimano road brake levers on Albastache bars. 650b x 42mm 
> compass tires, though I am thinking of going with the  rat trap passes and 
> going back to the 26" wheelset.
>
> Or can someone school me in how get my CX70's nice and tight so I don't 
> need to look at other options (I've tried a LBS for adjustments and that 
> didn't seem to help).
>

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[RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

[drew]

This is interesting as I also have a hunq with cx70 brakes that feel squishy. I 
recently adjusted them and added kool stop pads, and found the squishiness 
increased, which worried me. I did a 60 mile ride yesterday and adjusted the 
brakes a couple of times during the ride (once to alleviate squealing, and once 
to tighten up the front).  On the last leg, a skunk ran out in front of me and 
I was able to stop on a dime, so I figure that the power is actually pretty 
good,despite a sort of slow modulation feeling. 
2 things: since switching to road levers from mtb levers, the brakes have felt 
less powerful...perhaps this isn't true. Setting these up with the pads 
extremely close to the rims is the only way I've found them to be effective, 
though this makes wheel removal difficult and the brake allignment more 
finnicky.
Do you know which size spacer you are using for the pads? Also, I've heard 
switching to a traditional straddle cable offers better adjustment. I'm not 
sure that I'm good enough at adjusting cantis for that to improve my situation 
though. 

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

[Donald Funke]

Great ideas from all! I will be doing a pro fitting later this spring. 
Maybe I'm just being fussy. I look at what other have done brevets on and I 
guess I can give it a go with just about any bike. I'll try the brake hood 
adjustment. The tape is getting dirty anyway. Going with a shorter stem 
hampers the handling a bit. For the fenders: I got tired of futzing with my 
honjos, trying to make them fit over the 38mm tires. I don't like the look 
of the SKS fender mounts so I used honjo fender mounts on sks longboards. 
 I drilled out the sks mounting brackets leaving the rivets. Now  no rattle 
and they protect as well as the honjos. I admit they still don't look as 
cool as the honjos.

On Friday, January 1, 2016 at 6:04:57 PM UTC-7, Donald Funke wrote:
>
> I have a 63cm Homer that I enjoy riding for many different surfaces. I 
> have been getting into doing Brevets and considering swapping for a 60cm 
> Rambouillet. The 60cm would fit a bit better and it looks like the geometry 
> is a bit more roady. I like the ability to ride 38s with fenders, but it 
> does at times feel a bit "bulky". Any thoughts? They are both in excellent 
> condition BTW. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen vs. rambouillet

[Bill Lindsay]

For what it's worth, the rider that rode away from the group, off the 
front, in the most demonstrative, alpha-dog manner, that I've ever seen in 
~20-something brevets over the last 5 years, was riding an A. Homer 
Hilsen.  

On Sunday, January 3, 2016 at 10:17:07 PM UTC-8, Donald Funke wrote:
>
> Great ideas from all! I will be doing a pro fitting later this spring. 
> Maybe I'm just being fussy. I look at what other have done brevets on and I 
> guess I can give it a go with just about any bike. I'll try the brake hood 
> adjustment. The tape is getting dirty anyway. Going with a shorter stem 
> hampers the handling a bit. For the fenders: I got tired of futzing with my 
> honjos, trying to make them fit over the 38mm tires. I don't like the look 
> of the SKS fender mounts so I used honjo fender mounts on sks longboards. 
>  I drilled out the sks mounting brackets leaving the rivets. Now  no rattle 
> and they protect as well as the honjos. I admit they still don't look as 
> cool as the honjos.
>
>
>

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