[RBW] Re: New Sage Canti Sam Hillborne

[adam leibow]

thanks everybody for the nice words

Edwin, the bars are nitto noodle 46cm and the stem is 7cm long. i am at the 
lower end of PBH that fit this size sam but i wanted the bigger version for 
a more relaxed fit and was willing to use a short stem. 

Adam in Indiana - re. tire clearance, I think the WTB riddler 700x45 might 
be the perfect tire for this bike, maxing out the clearance probably. i 
wish wtb did a 700c byway, that would be perfect too. compass snoqualmie 
pass might be in this bike's future, too, though they are not maxing it out 
by any means. Eventually I might stick my Cheviot's Schwalbe Big Ben 700x50 
in the Sam's fork to see if it fits, but my gut tells me it won't. 

Jay in Tel Aviv - i took the frameset over my shoulder and skated back to 
bart, then got off in downtown san francisco and took a lyft home. I got 
several compliments on the way back-- "nice rivendell!" in walnut creek 
bart and "beautiful frame" at montgomery bart station in SF. as soon as I 
stepped onto market street I saw a bridgestone XO-1 and a Simpleone being 
ridden, good luck signs no doubt. 

On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 1:30:45 PM UTC-8, adam leibow wrote:
>
> a week ago today i left work an hour early, rode my skateboard to bart to 
> walnut creek, skated to HQ from bart, and picked up a new 58cm canti sam in 
> sage. i spent that night building the bike with parts bin parts and parts 
> stolen from other bikes in order to ride it on the boyzonthehoods super 
> bowl escape campout. i was up until almost 2 in the morning, but i got it 
> done and made the ride to camp, despite a too-short chain and. my friend 
> had his nice dslr and shot this photo 
>
>
> 
>

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[RBW] Re: Experiences with Clem L or H

[Joe Bernard]

Oh, I missed the last question. Yes, I rode the L and Chev on the same Fatty 
Rumpkins. 

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[RBW] Re: Experiences with Clem L or H

[Joe Bernard]

Not life-changingly different, but enough that I think a Cheviot or Appaloosa 
would be worth the cost difference over a Clem L for the kind of rides she's 
discussing. 

I'm not trying to talk down the Clem, I just wanted to give her an honest 
assessment from my POV because I think that's what she asked for. The Clems are 
great bikes, but there are zippier Rivs for longish, hilly road rides. 

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[RBW] Re: Albastache (or Moustache) Brake Lever Positions

[Jeremy Tavan]

For my commuter bike I'm very, very happy with Albastache bars with reverse 
levers and the (single) shifter a shortened Silver with a rubber cap on the 
end, mounted on a VO thumbie mount. I have some stoker knobs mounted on the 
curves where people usually mount their road brake levers, but honestly, I 
basically never use them. I like this handlebar setup enough that I'm 
tempted to duplicate it minus the shifter on my incoming Frank Jones Sr, 
though I try not to duplicate handlebars among my bikes. This setup gives a 
few really nice features:

1. The position in which you brake most is the least aggressive position 
the bar offers. There's no feeling like you're going to go over the bars if 
you hit the brakes hard.
2. At least three really nice hand positions: all the way back for 
starting/stopping/climbing, hands forward right up next to the shifter for 
"spirited" cruising in the high gears, and all the way forward on the 
curves for maximum aero (it doesn't take much for me to spin out this 42t 
1x6)
3. As you shift to higher gears your hands naturally move forwards into a 
more aggressive position, and as you shift down to the low gears your hands 
naturally move back to the less aggressive positions.
4. You can brake from all hand positions except right at the very front 
curves.



/Jeremy

On Saturday, February 10, 2018 at 7:11:26 PM UTC-8, Bob K. wrote:
>
> You could do bar end (“reverse aero”?) levers with the Albastache, but 
> then you’d be unable to use your bar end shifters. I don’t think you’d want 
> to mount levers anywhere else on those bars, if only because it would look 
> strange. 
>
> What about just going Albatross and buying brake levers? You can get 
> cheap, decent Tektro levers for V or canti brakes for like $20. Could fix 
> your geo/reach/height issue without even a new stem. I know that’s not what 
> you asked, but I thought I’d throw it out there. If you’re really looking 
> to stick with road-style levers, Albastache are nice. 
>
> Bob K. in Baltimore

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[RBW] Re: Experiences with Clem L or H

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

As a counterpoint, I am 5'10" 175, I ride a 52 Clementine and don't notice 
any more flex than any other bike. I'm not a spinner, but maybe I'm more 
delicate than you. In terms of bike weight, sure the Clem is heavy, but 
even with the so so stock tires I would not call it sluggish. Did you run 
comparable tires on the Clem and the Chev? I've also ridden a Chev, though 
not as extensively. Slightly sportier, but not lifechangingly different  
Though now I will try a back to back comparison when I get an opportunity.


 I wonder if you had comparable tires? 
On Saturday, February 10, 2018 at 9:25:09 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I owned one and loved it, but it wouldn't be my first choice of Rivbike 
> for the longer hilly rides you're proposing. It's a but heavy and sluggish 
> compared to the Cheviot I replaced it with. For me this wasn't a deal 
> breaker for the type of town cruising I usually do, but I'd want something 
> a little zippier for 60 miles or a century. Also, there was some flex in my 
> 52cm frame due, I presume, to it being such a long bike without a toptube. 
> It didn't bother me, but it's noticeable. 

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[RBW] Albastache (or Moustache) Brake Lever Positions

[Joe Bernard]

I've tried road levers on a Moustache that way, it doesn't work. The arc is 
designed for all that air the curve of drops or Moustache/Albastache provides; 
when mounted at the straight part the lever bottoms out on bar before you're 
done braking. 

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[RBW] Fender width on a Roadini

[Joe Bernard]

They mount with a tab between frame and brake so you'll still need clearance 
under the rear brake. But it's usually at the fork where full fenders get 
squeezed on racey road bikes..the Chop Chort doesn't go under the front brake. 

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[RBW] Albastache (or Moustache) Brake Lever Positions

[drew]

Couple of things. I don’t know if I’d consider alba/mustache bars any less 
aggressive than noodles. They are different for sure,but as I’ve had them set 
up, I don’t know if they are any more upright. From my perspective, the main 
attribute of mustache bars is that curvy area in the middle. It’s pretty comfy, 
somewhat aggressive and is close to the brakes. If I was planning on just using 
the parts that extended back and wanted to brake from there, I’d get albatross 
bars and mount mtb levers.

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[RBW] Albastache (or Moustache) Brake Lever Positions

[Bob K.]

You could do bar end (“reverse aero”?) levers with the Albastache, but then 
you’d be unable to use your bar end shifters. I don’t think you’d want to mount 
levers anywhere else on those bars, if only because it would look strange.

What about just going Albatross and buying brake levers? You can get cheap, 
decent Tektro levers for V or canti brakes for like $20. Could fix your 
geo/reach/height issue without even a new stem. I know that’s not what you 
asked, but I thought I’d throw it out there. If you’re really looking to stick 
with road-style levers, Albastache are nice.

Bob K. in Baltimore

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[RBW] Albastache (or Moustache) Brake Lever Positions

[WETH]

Maxwell,
In order to get my albastache bars a bit higher and closer, I run them "upside 
down" or flipped.  You could swap in a stem with more rise and that could get 
you the height/reach that is more comfortable while keeping brake levers out 
front.  Sorry I can't address your question about brake levers on the swept 
back portion of the bars. https://flic.kr/p/XrqQ35
Best wishes,
Erl

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[RBW] Albastache (or Moustache) Brake Lever Positions

[Maxwell H]

I'll try to make this short, but I'm not really good at that.  I've found 
that, in comparison to my Yves, my other rides just don't do the trick when 
it comes to comfort.  The one that I really feel the nee to "fix" is a 
Surly LHT, which I used to love, and which I want to have available for 
hauling my kid around, but which I feel puts why too much of my weight 
forward on my hands.  I did some measuring and found that the bars 
(depending on hand position) were about 2 inches lower and 4+ inches more 
of a reach than my Yves (fitted with an Albatross).  

So, I'm thinking I might switch out the Noodle on my Surly for an 
Albastache.  I could keep my bar end shifters and my existing brakes 
(Tektro RL520), and if I swapped out the stem for something with a higher 
rise, I ought to come out pretty darn close to my Yves geometry.  

What I love about gentle, cruisy rides on my Yves (I have it set up as my 
"casual commuting" bike) is that I can leave my hands back near the ends of 
the bars and have access to the shifters and brakes with pretty much no 
change of hand position.  But when I look at pretty much any pictures of 
the Albastache (or the dearly departed Moustache), I always see the brakes 
mounted out in the curve of the bars, which would have me (I think?) having 
to move my hand a few inches to get to them.  

I'm wondering:  has anyone ever mounted brakes on a 'Stache further back, 
more like how folks tend to set up their Albatross brakes?  If so, could 
you please post pics so that I can ogle your setup?  

Sub-question:  Is there any reason that I absolutely positively shouldn't 
want to mount brakes on an Albastache like this?

Thanks all... This is my first post!

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell Protovelo

[Nick Davis]

80.5cm

On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 7:16:07 PM UTC-6, John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> Nick
>
> What is the standover height?   Nice bike
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
>
> 
>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Fender width on a Roadini

[Chris Birkenmaier]

Joe that is a great suggestion.  I wanted to put them on my ANT truss bike but 
they couldn’t attach. I bet I could with the Roadini

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[RBW] Experiences with Clem L or H

[Deacon Patrick]

Hey Nancy,

Talk with Rivendell. They know their stuff and will take great care of you. 
They’ll tell you if the Clementine will work for you or if you really need ___.

My two eldest daughters, teenagers, have Clementines and love them. We live in 
the Rocky Mountains and it’s either up or down here. Trails, paved, whatever, 
the Clementines are great. Their previous bikes were 90’s Trek MTBs and they 
love their Clementines far more, including for bikepacking.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Have a Sub 20lb Roadeo?

[Brian Campbell]

Not sub  20 but currently 21 lbs.(without saddle bag and water bottles).



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[RBW] Fender width on a Roadini

[Joe Bernard]

Have you considered Chop Chorts? I put them on my Cheviot for the same 'keep it 
light and simple' reasons even though I have more room for full fenders. I like 
the look and think they would look cool on a Roadini.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/OZ1SkJOSDYZPGHF93

 

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[RBW] Experiences with Clem L or H

[Joe Bernard]

I owned one and loved it, but it wouldn't be my first choice of Rivbike for the 
longer hilly rides you're proposing. It's a but heavy and sluggish compared to 
the Cheviot I replaced it with. For me this wasn't a deal breaker for the type 
of town cruising I usually do, but I'd want something a little zippier for 60 
miles or a century. Also, there was some flex in my 52cm frame due, I presume, 
to it being such a long bike without a toptube. It didn't bother me, but it's 
noticeable. 

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[RBW] Does anybody own a new 59cm / 650b Atlantis?

[drew]

The 59 is 650b too? That’s cool. I have a new 56 650b. Really happy with it. 

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Senor on the BLUG

[Belopsky]

More Frank Jones photos popping up
https://www.instagram.com/p/BfCV4-1A4Su/?taken-by=rivbike

Some detail shots of a blue one
https://www.instagram.com/p/BfBGKBvBC4J/?taken-by=bluelug_yoyogipark
https://www.instagram.com/p/BfAekFUhqR-/?taken-by=bluelug_yoyogipark
https://www.instagram.com/p/BfAICrlBjgK/?taken-by=bluelug_yoyogipark

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[RBW] Re: Experiences with Clem L or H

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hi Nancy. I think your initial impressions would carry over into longer, 
hillier rides for the most part. I have never done a century or a multi day 
tour on my Clementine, aka Clem L, but I could certainly imagine doing so 
without any issues. The complete Clems come with a gearing range that 
should allow you to tackle just about any hill--I rode to the top of Mt. 
Beacon here on a steep fire road with no problem.

 And as long as you are okay with more upright style bars for long rides, 
there should be no reason you can't do them on a Clem, since the bike is 
built for comfort but is more athletic and sporty than the bikes sometimes 
billed as comfort bikes in the stores. The only possible reservation I 
might have is if you were an "A" club rider intent on doing a fast timed 
kind of century, as the bike, while perfectly capable of high cruising 
speeds, is not a machine that seeks to eke out every last watt your body 
has to offer. I don't get the sense that is the kind of riding you are 
after, so I would say you are good. I don't do tours, but I know of at 
least one person on the list who went touring on a Clem and. IIRC.,  the 
bike performed beyond her expectations. It also has the benefit of all 
kinds of braze-ons for racks. For rides in the 30-60 mile range, I take 
drop bar bikes, but that is mostly habit. If the Clem were my only bike, I 
have no doubt it would be just fine with those kinds of rides. The Clem L 
is a really great do it all bicycle and can definitely handle the grades 
and distances,

On Saturday, February 10, 2018 at 5:56:42 PM UTC-5, Nancy Seibel wrote:
>
> Hi, there, I'm seriously thinking of buying a Clem L (I know...that's how 
> it starts) and wanted to hear from those of you have ridden this bike. What 
> do you like about it? Any dislikes? How is it on hilly routes? What about 
> long rides - defined as 30-60+ miles?
>
> I test rode one for a short spin around town and loved it. But would I 
> Iove it in hilly Baltimore County MD, on a century or out for a multi-day 
> tour?
>
> Thanks in advance for your comments!
>

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[RBW] Does anybody own a new 59cm / 650b Atlantis?

[iamkeith]

If so, could I please see some photos and bother you to take some measurements?

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Re: [RBW] Re: 60/62cm Quickbeam Owners: Head Tube Length?

[Mike Line]

Hi Jeff,
I couldn’t access eBay at work and the pics are pretty small on my phone. I’ll 
check it out soon and send any questions.
Mike 



> On Feb 10, 2018, at 6:34 PM, sameness  wrote:
> 
> Replied!
> 
>> On Saturday, February 10, 2018 at 10:20:17 AM UTC-8, CapNMike wrote:
>> I might be interested in a 62 cm. PM sent.
>> 
>> -Mike Line
> 
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[RBW] Fender width on a Roadini

[Chris Birkenmaier]

Thanks guys!  I have a very good bike mechanic that I’d trust to make the fit 
and do it right. I’m keeping my options open though as I do want this to be my 
relatively light and fast build. (Not that I’m fast)

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[RBW] Re: 60/62cm Quickbeam Owners: Head Tube Length?

[sameness]

Replied!

On Saturday, February 10, 2018 at 10:20:17 AM UTC-8, CapNMike wrote:
>
> I might be interested in a 62 cm. PM sent.
>
> -Mike Line
>
>>

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[RBW] FS Technomic Deluxe 70mm takeoff

[Ed Felker]

Very light marks from insertion, otherwise looks news. This is the deluxe 
version with the high polish and nicer nut. 

$50 shipped Priority Mail. Paypal preferred. 

Photos here: 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/8193389@N06/albums/72157692501313254

Thanks 

Ed Felker
Washington DC

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[RBW] Experiences with Clem L or H

[Nancy Seibel]

Hi, there, I'm seriously thinking of buying a Clem L (I know...that's how 
it starts) and wanted to hear from those of you have ridden this bike. What 
do you like about it? Any dislikes? How is it on hilly routes? What about 
long rides - defined as 30-60+ miles?

I test rode one for a short spin around town and loved it. But would I Iove 
it in hilly Baltimore County MD, on a century or out for a multi-day tour?

Thanks in advance for your comments!

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[RBW] Fender width on a Roadini

[LBleriot]

I have 35s on mine with 28 tires under Shimano medium reach brakes.  You can 
probably go wider with Tektro brakes but it’s tight at the fork crown.  Flat 
woodies would require some carving methinks.

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Re: [RBW] Gofast f/f: 6.0 lb even!

[Patrick Moore]

BTW, that 6.0 lb is for the bare frame and fork (57 c-c, long steerer and
head tube 'cause it's designed for 559 road wheels that measure 24" to 24
1/2" in diameter compared to 2 1/2" taller for 700C).

On Sat, Feb 10, 2018 at 2:11 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> It's a Rivendell custom, again, built by Joe Starck and delivered in
> April, 1999. Grant very graciously acceded to my pleas for a very
> un-Rivendellian single-purpose machine (the sole and single purpose being,
> to have fun riding it), stripped of all braze ons except dt bottle cage
> bosses, tho' the builder did add a little "conceit" in the way of a little
> wing-shaped chainstay bridge that no one can see unless you look for it,
> and a nice heart cutout on the bottom of the bb shell.
>
> "Gofast" is simply my way of saying "built with no thought for rain or
> loads or lights."
>
> On Sat, Feb 10, 2018 at 12:38 PM,  wrote:
>
>> I've never heard of gofast bikes.  Is it a custom?
>>
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>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Gofast f/f: 6.0 lb even!

[Patrick Moore]

It's a Rivendell custom, again, built by Joe Starck and delivered in April,
1999. Grant very graciously acceded to my pleas for a very un-Rivendellian
single-purpose machine (the sole and single purpose being, to have fun
riding it), stripped of all braze ons except dt bottle cage bosses, tho'
the builder did add a little "conceit" in the way of a little wing-shaped
chainstay bridge that no one can see unless you look for it, and a nice
heart cutout on the bottom of the bb shell.

"Gofast" is simply my way of saying "built with no thought for rain or
loads or lights."

On Sat, Feb 10, 2018 at 12:38 PM,  wrote:

> I've never heard of gofast bikes.  Is it a custom?
>
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Re: [RBW] Advise me: what powdercoat color for Riv #2, the '99 Joe Starck gofast?

[Patrick Moore]

I'm not looking at it from 18" away, but from the photos, it looks as if
you did a very nice job; kudos.

Me, I think I'll just stick with more or less what I have; Erl's blue is
close enough to the Joe Bell blue, and Chauncey says that the coater can do
a metallic powdercoat -- the present paint is slightly metallic.

On Sat, Feb 10, 2018 at 11:47 AM, WETH  wrote:

> William!,
> I painted the headtube and details myself after it was powdercoated.  In
> the Flickr link there are some photos of what I used:
> https://flickr.com/photos/86975051@N08/sets/72157654006187120
>
> Thanks,
> Erl
>
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[RBW] Re: Advise me: what powdercoat color for Riv #2, the '99 Joe Starck gofast?

[Patrick Moore]

Thanks, all. Chris and Mark: I will ask Chauncey what he thinks. The paint
has its share of little nicks, but it's pretty good for 19 years old.

As to powdercoating and lugs: The sage-ish green powdercoat on the
also-Chauncey-modified '03 Curt leaves the lug profiles nice and crisp;
that was the case too with the Herse and is the case also with the
Matthews, which has bilaminate construction.

As to gearing: thanks for the suggestions, but the entire aesthetic,
philosophy, of this bike is "stripped down" -- no room for a second ring. I
can get a 3 tooth difference with the existing "short horizontal" Rivendell
dropouts now that I've filed 2-3 mm off the back, but I want to be able to
accommodate a 15 cruising cog and at need a 22 t "out of shape old man
climbing cog" (52" gear, though I'll save that for true old age; right now,
a 19 t/60" would be nice).

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[RBW] Gofast f/f: 6.0 lb even!

[nash5510]

I've never heard of gofast bikes.  Is it a custom? 

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[RBW] wtt Paul racer medium for Paul racer (longer reach version)

[Preston Smith]

Hey Y'all,

Long shot i know but, im looking to trade a set of used paul racer medium 
silver brakes for the the longer reach version. Any color will do. Also 
would trade for mafac raids. 

Thanks!
Preston

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[RBW] Advise me: what powdercoat color for Riv #2, the '99 Joe Starck gofast?

[WETH]

William!,
I painted the headtube and details myself after it was powdercoated.  In the 
Flickr link there are some photos of what I used: 
https://flickr.com/photos/86975051@N08/sets/72157654006187120

Thanks,
Erl

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[RBW] Gofast f/f: 6.0 lb even!

[Patrick Moore]

I just disassembled the '99 gofast; the first complete disassembly in 19
years. 13,509 miles (I know; it got ridden less than the others in many
years). Phil hub bearings as new; Tange Rollerball hs as new; Phil bb a bit
scrunchy. I'll have the hubs and bb bearings replaced or renewed in any
event. Found a very slight warp in the front wheel, which I will let the
shop true since the nipples are aluminum and old.

Weight of frame, fork, and Rollerball headset: 6.2 lb; minus the headset,
that means as close as nevermind to 6 lb even for a 57 cm frame with very
long head and steerer tubes. Not bad!

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[RBW] Re: 60/62cm Quickbeam Owners: Head Tube Length?

[CapNMike]

I might be interested in a 62 cm. PM sent.

-Mike Line

>

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[RBW] Re: [BOB] Advise me: what powdercoat color for Riv #2, the '99 Joe Starck gofast?

[Ian A]

Patrick,

I think Chris makes a sound suggestion to save the Joe Bell paint job where 
possible. That's not something easily replaced and whereas some powder-coating 
gives great results, all the real craft is in wet paint. 

Just my 2c
IanA

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Re: [RBW] Have a Sub 20lb Roadeo?

[islaysteve]

Funny, I was curious and so I spent a few minutes on the Waterford website 
today.  I quickly came to the conclusion that a "similar" lugged steel F/F 
from Waterford starts very close in cost to the $2600 point and goes up 
from there.  So you have a choice:  Buy a Rivendell (made by Waterford), 
get the Riv look, ride, lugs, decals and color of your choice; or buy a 
Waterford and get their look, etc, with the choice to spend even more money 
on fancier lugs, chrome, fancy paint, etc.  Individual choice, no right or 
wrong.  

I'd love to see your Waterford when it's finished.
Cheers, Steve


On Saturday, February 10, 2018 at 10:46:25 AM UTC-5, Davey Two Shoes wrote:
>
> Why not have Waterford build you something lighter if weight is a concern? 
> Certainly they're not too obscure a company for RBW folk. I think for a 
> lightweight road frame the roadeo cost more than it's worth. It's a weird 
> starting point for a lightweight build. But I guess sub 20lb isn't actually 
> that light. The only premium I see over most comparable custom options in 
> the price range is the beautiful lugs. Idk, your bike your choice.
>
> I'll gladly post my Waterford when it's done and we can all ridicule my 
> dumb parts together :)
>

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[RBW] What type of bike would make you buy another riv

[Davey Two Shoes]

It would be cool to see a plus tire size Riv.

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[RBW] Advise me: what powdercoat color for Riv #2, the '99 Joe Starck gofast?

[William!]

How did you paint the headtube and details? I’d never heard of a powder coat 
involving multiple colors...

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[RBW] Fender width on a Roadini

[Davey Two Shoes]

Portland bicycle design has some good option full fenders for difficult 
clearances. I'd check them out.

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Re: [RBW] Have a Sub 20lb Roadeo?

[Davey Two Shoes]

Why not have Waterford build you something lighter if weight is a concern? 
Certainly they're not too obscure a company for RBW folk. I think for a 
lightweight road frame the roadeo cost more than it's worth. It's a weird 
starting point for a lightweight build. But I guess sub 20lb isn't actually 
that light. The only premium I see over most comparable custom options in the 
price range is the beautiful lugs. Idk, your bike your choice.

I'll gladly post my Waterford when it's done and we can all ridicule my dumb 
parts together :)

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[RBW] Advise me: what powdercoat color for Riv #2, the '99 Joe Starck gofast?

[Joe Bernard]

I like the lighter Ford Blue on the RS. It kinda reminds me of Petty Blue, too, 
if you're familiar with the #43 in NASCAR. 

https://www.motorauthority.com/news/1017205_2016-ford-focus-rs-u-s-specs-availability-confirmed-video

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[RBW] New Sage Canti Sam Hillborne

[Joe Bernard]

That bike is - as the kids probably don't say anymore - the bomb! Love the pink 
tape 👍

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[RBW] Re: Alone in a Sea of Autos

[ascpgh]

I ride with an expectation of respect from vehicle traffic equal to what 
I'm giving. I've been doing this for a while and long ago gave up on 
unilateral respect from traffic because of regulations or rules. Some 
traffic approach with a more sympathetic sense but I ride like I have to 
earn what treatment I get. 

Over the last week or so it's been interesting since the winter 
accumulation has changed the bike lanes into a rutted, frozen solid glacier 
and where there are no designated lanes, parallel parked cars have hindered 
clearing or treatment resulting in the same unridable icy slab. In the 
morning darkness my Luxos' light isn't enough at riding speed to make it 
super obvious where bare pavement is clear and wet or the off-pitch of 
dirty ice pack begins. Veering onto the frozen stuff is bad with studded 
tires, an instant wreck from plain tires squirting out from under you.

I have to gain the forbearance of traffic as I make my way along the edge 
of clear pavement and that of the glacial advance, so I make signals as I 
need, in whatever seems the most understood way and make my moves as gently 
and ahead of need as I can. If they can cipher what I'm about to do and 
where I'm going, it worked. 

My bike looks worse than after riding 80 miles on the GAP in the rain, my 
drivetrain is a filthy mess but I'm no worse for wear. Big wins in this 
winter of commuting from fenders and my Ventile smock also.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 4:39:01 PM UTC-5, Garth wrote:
>
>
> Patrick , use universal hand gestures common to human beings standing in 
> person next to each other , no one understands "bike signals" these dayze.  
> Think "talking with my hands".  It's gotta be demonstrative, with emotion 
>  none of us are machines, period. 
>
>
> Point left with the left hand, right with the right. To gesture slow down, 
> turn your body in the direction of the driver(eye contact if you can) and 
> give a gesture like you're pushing a wall (palm out, fingers extended), and 
> hold it briefly like you're telling them to "back off".  
>
> If I "take a lane" with a car behind me, I make a gesture like a emphatic 
> "hammer slam down" with a pointed finger downward to the lane, and I MEAN 
> IT.  "Here I am, this is mine now, back off" .   
>
>
>
> On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 1:53:06 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Google ate my attempted response, so here goes again. Sorry if this 
>> double posts later. 
>>
>> Bruce said: “If there's no room to be passed, I signal that and take the 
>> lane.   Once there is room I move over and wave them around.   It works for 
>> me.” 
>>
>> Sweet! I attempt much the same thing, but with mixed results. Could you 
>> help me understand what “not safe to pass” signal you use? I find that 
>> 2/3rds of drivers either ignore it or are ignorant of the meaning it. One 
>> driver told me “I don’t speak bike.” I wanted to ask if he spoke common 
>> sense, but common sense prevented me from asking. Shrug. Grin. I use the 
>> “slow” signal: left arm straight out, forearm bent down 90˚, palm open, 
>> facing backwards. Sometimes I’ll swing my palm back and forth to try and 
>> get their attention if they are not slowing down and it’s not clear. 
>>
>> I never cease to be amazed by how often drivers pass when they can’t see 
>> if it is clear ahead. Also, I never signal for cars to pass me. Too much 
>> “but he said it was OK!” excuse for failure to be smart. Instead, I just 
>> smile and wave. 
>>
>> With abandon, 
>> Patrick
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Have a Sub 20lb Roadeo?

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

*RBW Owners Bunch - Dedicated to the discussion of Rivendell Bicycles and 
products*

On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 2:12:57 PM UTC-5, Davey Two Shoes wrote:
>
> I think the real problem here is the Roadeo is simply outclassed in it's 
> price bracket. You could easily get a custom geo steel road bike with a 
> carbon fork fork less. If the plan is a lightweight steel build I'd say 
> there are way better choices for your money.  
>
> If lugs are the the desire, why not get a vintage race bike?
>

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[RBW] Re: Advise me: what powdercoat color for Riv #2, the '99 Joe Starck gofast?

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Oh, and barring all this, I second the Schwinn Kool Lemon. Sorta flashy 
like a red, but more down to earth. If you're gonna go and paint the dang 
thing, make it look different. I hate painting a room the same color. No 
fun!

On Saturday, February 10, 2018 at 8:06:54 AM UTC-5, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> That certainly is a nice paint job on a nice bicycle. I missed the thread 
> where you talked about the benefits of this project but I assume the much 
> longer dropouts have to do with being able to run a range of gears simply 
> by sliding the wheel around, and of course the other mod is to carry more 
> water. Given the expenses, I take it you plan to put this bike into heavier 
> rotation. I'm always coming up with projects like this, but I eventually 
> abandon due to the paint (although in my case, I am preserving paint jobs 
> that have seen much more abuse.)
>
> As you say, paint is way down on your list, but I just wonder if you can't 
> achieve similar results with other options--even temporary ones, just to 
> make sure you really need to do this. The water bottle cage holders from VO 
> actually work and look ok, and there is available a nice repro cage that 
> has the necessary tabs. For the gearing, I don't know much about eccentric 
> bb's or if they could deliver what you seek, but what about the little mini 
> fad of running a couple rings up front with no derailleur? Making 
> non-intrusive, non-permanent mods will allow you to see if these new specs 
> really make the bike one that you will ride more often. If it turns out 
> yes, you have the option to go with full  surgery. If no, you have a bike 
> with much higher resale value. Apologies if you have already gone through 
> all this. In fact, knowing you, I suspect you probably have!;^)
>
> On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 12:13:15 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> Chauncey will, God willing, pick it up tomorrow for some modifications: 
>> much longer -- longer-than-1010 -- dropouts, and a second pair of cage 
>> bosses on the seat tube. He will have it powdercoated by a local shop that 
>> does good work on bike frames.
>>
>> I rather think I'll choose the same navy blue, but I recall the Herse 
>> that this shop did -- a really lovely, "liquid" pale blue. I *do not* intend 
>> to choose orange or green or gray or black or white. But shades of blue, 
>> red -- other ideas?
>>
>> Patrick Moore, who reserves the right to ignore any and all advice (but 
>> who will certainly listen to it with interest and gratitude).
>>
>> Here is the bike in current colors -- bar tape is more of same -- if not 
>> current build:
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
>> *
>> ***
>> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Advise me: what powdercoat color for Riv #2, the '99 Joe Starck gofast?

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

That certainly is a nice paint job on a nice bicycle. I missed the thread 
where you talked about the benefits of this project but I assume the much 
longer dropouts have to do with being able to run a range of gears simply 
by sliding the wheel around, and of course the other mod is to carry more 
water. Given the expenses, I take it you plan to put this bike into heavier 
rotation. I'm always coming up with projects like this, but I eventually 
abandon due to the paint (although in my case, I am preserving paint jobs 
that have seen much more abuse.)

As you say, paint is way down on your list, but I just wonder if you can't 
achieve similar results with other options--even temporary ones, just to 
make sure you really need to do this. The water bottle cage holders from VO 
actually work and look ok, and there is available a nice repro cage that 
has the necessary tabs. For the gearing, I don't know much about eccentric 
bb's or if they could deliver what you seek, but what about the little mini 
fad of running a couple rings up front with no derailleur? Making 
non-intrusive, non-permanent mods will allow you to see if these new specs 
really make the bike one that you will ride more often. If it turns out 
yes, you have the option to go with full  surgery. If no, you have a bike 
with much higher resale value. Apologies if you have already gone through 
all this. In fact, knowing you, I suspect you probably have!;^)

On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 12:13:15 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Chauncey will, God willing, pick it up tomorrow for some modifications: 
> much longer -- longer-than-1010 -- dropouts, and a second pair of cage 
> bosses on the seat tube. He will have it powdercoated by a local shop that 
> does good work on bike frames.
>
> I rather think I'll choose the same navy blue, but I recall the Herse that 
> this shop did -- a really lovely, "liquid" pale blue. I *do not* intend 
> to choose orange or green or gray or black or white. But shades of blue, 
> red -- other ideas?
>
> Patrick Moore, who reserves the right to ignore any and all advice (but 
> who will certainly listen to it with interest and gratitude).
>
> Here is the bike in current colors -- bar tape is more of same -- if not 
> current build:
>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>

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[RBW] Re: New Sage Canti Sam Hillborne

[Jay in Tel Aviv]

Great story!
How did you get the Sam and skateboard back home from the BART?


On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 11:30:45 PM UTC+2, adam leibow wrote:

> a week ago today i left work an hour early, rode my skateboard to bart to 
> walnut creek, skated to HQ from bart, and picked up a new 58cm canti sam in 
> sage. i spent that night building the bike with parts bin parts and parts 
> stolen from other bikes in order to ride it on the boyzonthehoods super 
> bowl escape campout. i was up until almost 2 in the morning, but i got it 
> done and made the ride to camp, despite a too-short chain and. my friend 
> had his nice dslr and shot this photo 
>
>
> 
>

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