Re: [RBW] Full brimmed hat recommendations

[Ron Mc]

btw, it's hat-city around here, living in the S. Texas sun.  On a bike, I'm 
happy with my Bell Metro and enough visor to peer into the sun.  But then 
just never spend a full day on a bike around here except in the winter - 
always ride in the morning.  
But do spend long days in kayaks in the coast flats, and wading hill 
country limestone creeks.  Stocked up on Tilley, Akubra, Milano, Panamas, 
even Art Fawcett VS Custom, and a 40-y-o karma canvas brim - the side used 
to snap Aussie style, making it great for riding in power boats.  
Brims make so much since for the sun, weather, just look down a little to 
bust brush.  
And agree on an organized trip. one hat is never enough - always bring at 
least two.  

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[RBW] Re: FS: nitto r14 rear rack

['Dave Small' via RBW Owners Bunch]

If you have pictures to send, so you not also have pictures to post?  

On Monday, August 20, 2018 at 10:08:24 PM UTC-4, Jeffrey B wrote:
>
> Pictures sent

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[RBW] Re: Full brimmed hat recommendations

[Steve Cole]

Try Conner Hats.  Wide range of styles and materials.  Made in Australia.


On Monday, August 20, 2018 at 6:35:55 PM UTC-4, David wrote:
>
> Hi folks - do any of you love a particular full-brimmed hat, like the ones 
> Outdoor Research and the like make?  Not so much Indiana Jones style, but 
> one for coverage from sun, a bit pliable? I would expect for Riv to have a 
> well-researched MUSA go to that they sell (sorta like the Abus lock), but 
> no luck.  I would really appreciate your thoughts if you have some to 
> offer.  Thanks--David
>

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[RBW] Re: Dynamo Lights - Sinewave, IQX, Schmidt?

[Marc40a]

The Beacon is very impressive. I do notice the spillover from the 
symmetrical beam as reflections on road signs ahead in the distance. 

The battery cache and integrated charger are the standout features. The 
cache feature is perfect for uphill trails or slow-going technical sections 
at night. It got me through the last few miles of muddy jeep track in last 
weekend's D2R2 180k.  The integrated charger is icing on the cake, I charge 
the cache battery and any other device during the daytime hours. 

I also occasionally run the light on low during the day for visibility.  
That's a case where the symmetrical beam is an asset, rather than a 
liability. 
 

On Friday, August 17, 2018 at 8:52:57 PM UTC-4, Chris Corral wrote:
>
> Winter approaches, and as summer wastes away so do our hours of sunlight!
>
> I am looking to outfit my new bike with a tour-worthy lamp and am 
> wondering if anyone has direct experience or opinions between the B&M IQ-x, 
> Schmidt Edlux II, and the new Sinewave Beacon (Bacon?). I have personally 
> owned the IQ-X and taken it on tours across Colorado, New Mexico, old 
> Mexico, and Western Europe. Through rain, wind, dust and shine it performed 
> flawlessly and I would buy it again. But I am interested in the USB 
> charging capabilities and potential performance benefits of the Beacon or 
> Schmidt. I also know those two have better standlights, with the Sinewave 
> able to run on a battery cache. My riding is a healthy mix of on/off road, 
> with tours gravitating towards off-road. I will also use this light on my 
> tandem.
>
> I guess I have two questions. 
> 1) Are the Schmidt and Sinewave worth the price premium over the IQ-X? 
> 2) How is the new Sinewave Beacon anyway?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Dynamo Lights - Sinewave, IQX, Schmidt?

[Marc40a]

If you point the light down about 6-8 feet ahead of the bike, and don't go 
over 800 or so lumens a symmetrical beam isn't as dramatic as you make it 
sound. It's totally fine for the road. However, like most things, if it's 
used improperly, and many people do use bike lights improperly, it can be 
inconsiderate and borderline dangerous. 


On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 6:23:44 AM UTC-4, Julian Westerhout wrote:
>
> Symmetrical beam lights are ok in trail riding where you will not be 
> encountering oncoming cyclists and motorists (and in fact in that sort of 
> use can be good, as they'll show you tree limbs, etc that are high up), but 
> are horrible for road riding, as they often blind oncoming traffic, which 
> is not only impolite, but can be dangerous. 
>
> Most/many battery lights in the US are symmetrical, and I've been blinded 
>  by the powerful ones them both riding and driving at night. Very 
> disconcerting and scary to essentially go black for a few seconds after 
> being blitzed by these lights. If you do decide to go symmetrical, don't 
> use that light on the road. 
>
> Julian Westerhout
> Bloomington, IL 
>
> On Friday, August 17, 2018 at 11:38:23 PM UTC-4, Collin A wrote:
>>
>> It doesn't answer your question, but I recommend taking a look at the 
>> klite 1300 lumen light. Its a symmetrical light that (at least in the US) 
>> I've found to be more useful than an asymmetrical light for all-round 
>> riding. It's also bright as the dickens, but adds a noticeable amount of 
>> drag on the dynamo hub.
>>
>> I've found it more useful than the schmidt due to the asymmetry of the 
>> light beam.
>>
>> On Friday, August 17, 2018 at 5:52:57 PM UTC-7, Chris Corral wrote:
>>>
>>> Winter approaches, and as summer wastes away so do our hours of sunlight!
>>>
>>> I am looking to outfit my new bike with a tour-worthy lamp and am 
>>> wondering if anyone has direct experience or opinions between the B&M IQ-x, 
>>> Schmidt Edlux II, and the new Sinewave Beacon (Bacon?). I have personally 
>>> owned the IQ-X and taken it on tours across Colorado, New Mexico, old 
>>> Mexico, and Western Europe. Through rain, wind, dust and shine it performed 
>>> flawlessly and I would buy it again. But I am interested in the USB 
>>> charging capabilities and potential performance benefits of the Beacon or 
>>> Schmidt. I also know those two have better standlights, with the Sinewave 
>>> able to run on a battery cache. My riding is a healthy mix of on/off road, 
>>> with tours gravitating towards off-road. I will also use this light on my 
>>> tandem.
>>>
>>> I guess I have two questions. 
>>> 1) Are the Schmidt and Sinewave worth the price premium over the IQ-X? 
>>> 2) How is the new Sinewave Beacon anyway?
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] FS: nice parts of interest

[Conway Bennett]

Hi all,

I keep reposting my CL ad here in Chicago but thought I'd share it with y'all 
too.

https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bop/d/rivendell-soma-velo-orange/6675894756.html

Stuff not on the list but I want gone:

Pair lightly used Soma C Line 700x38 in skinwall.  $60

Pair lightly used WTB Horizon 650b.  $100

Pair new Schwalbe Smart Sam 700x45.  $70 

Let's talk about shipping & handling when you buy.


Fair winds,

Captain Conway

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[RBW] Re: Full brimmed hat recommendations

[lconley]

Put me in the Tilley camp. Bought my 1st one when I was taking sailing 
lessons on the recommendation of the instructor. They even make them that 
are too big for my head - wish I could find a motorcycle helmet that was 
too big.

Made in Canada.

Laing
Cocoa FL


>>

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Re: [RBW] What tires fit good on 700c Sun CR18 rims?

[Tim Gavin]

Avoid any tubeless-ready tires; they seem to have a tighter bead than
non-tubeless ones.

I bet the absolute easiest to mount would be an open tubular, like
Challenge's PRO series.  The Strada Bianca Pro is their widest road tread
at 30 mm, and they have some wider ones (Alamanzo and Gravel Grinder) with
semi-knobby tread.
http://www.challengetech.it/products/gravel/strada-bianca-pro-040/en

They're handmade on a tubular tire casing, and the bead is a very simple
cord folded into the casing.  They're about the same price as Compass EL
tires.



On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 12:36 AM, Lum Gim Fong 
wrote:

>
> Anyone recommend a tire that goes on/off these rims easy and by hand (no
> levers).
> Will GB Cypress?
> Paselas are very hard to get on/off even with levers feel like I am gonna
> break something. Would not want to have to change a flat in the field.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Dynamo Lights - Sinewave, IQX, Schmidt?

[Mark Schneider]

Harris cyclery has them. and a few similar battery lights 
https://www.harriscyclery.net/product/busch-mller-ixon-iq-premium-l.e.d.-headlight-4622.htm
 


On Saturday, August 18, 2018 at 4:56:28 AM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Yes. Busch and Muller makes the Ixon light, which uses 4 AA batteries. 
> Nice light that runs 3 hours on high, 15 on low. The low setting is OK for 
> me in dark places (our in the country away from streetlights); YMMV. 
>
> I’ve never seen them for sale in a US shop. Bought mine from a German 
> online store. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dynamo Lights - Sinewave, IQX, Schmidt?

[Tom Wyland]

I've ordered B&M products directly from Peter White Cycles and also from PW 
dealers .

Tom

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[RBW] Thought on Dyno vs. asymmetrical battery headlights?

[Lum Gim Fong]

Thinking about asymmetrical lighting for my bike sp as to not blind drivers.
One of my bikes has dyno, which is great.
But wondering if foregoing a new 500$ Dyno wheel and 200$ light and getting one 
of those asymmetrical battery lights is better.
Thoughts?
Weight and drag less with battery light I imagine. This is a 700c go fast 
Roadeo I would be lighting up.

Seems like battery lights brighter and more advanced lenses and more affordable 
these days. Is dyno necessary anymore for rides less than 100 miles?

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[RBW] Re: Full brimmed hat recommendations

[Craig Montgomery]

I like those Sheltas. Ordering one soon. Tilleys are great too but very hot 
in the desert. Too thick. I don't wear a helmet. Crashing is a low 
probability event. Skin cancer is 100% probability in my case. They've been 
burning and cutting them off me every 6 months for 30 years. 

Sierra Trading Post has quite a few. I've found it's hard to find one that 
won't flop into your eyes while you're going downhill at speed. You need a 
reasonably stiff brim but small enough so it doesn't cover your field of 
vision when on the hoods. 2 1/2-3". I have a mesh-vented Boonie Hat that 
Duluth no longer sells. It's perfect with large mesh side panels and 3" 
stiff brim all the way around. This is the closest I could find to it: 

https://www.duluthtrading.com/mens-outback-crusher-hat-70518.html?cgid=mens-outerwear-hats&dwvar_70518_color=DKH#start=5&cgid=mens-outerwear-hats

Craig-love the smell of burning flesh-in Tucson

On Monday, August 20, 2018 at 3:35:55 PM UTC-7, David wrote:
>
> Hi folks - do any of you love a particular full-brimmed hat, like the ones 
> Outdoor Research and the like make?  Not so much Indiana Jones style, but 
> one for coverage from sun, a bit pliable? I would expect for Riv to have a 
> well-researched MUSA go to that they sell (sorta like the Abus lock), but 
> no luck.  I would really appreciate your thoughts if you have some to 
> offer.  Thanks--David
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: The Silver Hubs

['Montgomery Engel' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I think that’s probably right. I contacted Rivendell and they do not have and 
did not know of any cromo replacements. I think there are more alloy freehub 
bodies out there that are compatible, but I think I’m just going to ride this 
freehub into the ground, i.e., until I can’t get the cassettes off or I have to 
rebuild the wheel and then decide whether to chance it with another alloy body 
or get another hub. I sort of doubt KT is going to be making a cromo 
replacement.
It seems to me this is an engineering error. The softer alloy splines are the 
same depth as the harder cromo splines in the Shimamo compatible bodies. It 
strikes me that they should have increased their depth to compensate for the 
weaker metal. Instead, no surprise, it seems like their answer was to use 
pricier, interlocking cassettes that are probably less likely to cut the 
splines, but I’d so much rather have a bulletproof but heavier freehub body and 
keep using reasonably priced cassettes that I think probably wear at similar 
rates to the cheap ones!
Thanks for the thoughts on this. 

> On Aug 15, 2018, at 6:18 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
> 
> I looked at that Ben's Cycle listing for a SRAM freehub.  I'd bet a dollar 
> that IF it's really gold in color, like that picture, that it is not in fact 
> steel.  I don't know of a way to make steel be that color.  That's a picture 
> of an aluminum freehub body.  If the item you are actually buying looks alot 
> different from the photo, then maybe it's steel.  They might be referring to 
> the drivering itself, with the ratchet splines, which most certainly is 
> steel.  
> 
> BL in EC
> 
>> On Wednesday, August 15, 2018 at 12:40:55 PM UTC-7, Jeremy Till wrote:
>> I've been researching the possibility of getting a cromo freehub body for 
>> Silver hubs and haven't actually come up with a solution but do have a 
>> couple of leads: 
>> 
>> 1. After some sleuthing I have come to believe that the Silver hubs were 
>> manufactured by KT, a Taiwanese company that manufacturers hubs for a number 
>> of other brands, and whose website used to show a cromoly replacement 
>> freehub with the same mechanism as the Silver ones.  I emailed them about 
>> the possibility of getting one in the U.S. and was directed to HiFi wheels, 
>> a boutique wheel builder in Portland whom I assume is a North American agent 
>> for KT.  They don't list the freehub bodies on their website, and they never 
>> responded to my email inquiry.  You may have better luck--let us know if you 
>> do!  
>> 
>> http://ridehifi.com/
>>  
>> 2. I have recently discovered that the SRAM S40/60/80 wheels seem to have 
>> used a KT hub with the same freehub mechanism, and that there is a 
>> replacement freehub body out there that looks like the Silver one and is 
>> listed as being steel: 
>> 
>> https://www.benscycle.com/sram-s406080-910-speed-freehub-body-and-seal/freehub_body_sram_freehub_bodies_8116_fw4553/product
>> 
>> (It's listed in the QBP catalog and thus is available from a number of 
>> vendors, this is just the first one that showed the material).  Buying this 
>> was going to be my next attempt (haven't do so yet), but I will say that I 
>> have no idea if it is actually going to work on a Silver hub and if it is 
>> indeed steel. If you buy one, let us know how it works out!
>> 
>>> On Wednesday, August 15, 2018 at 10:59:12 AM UTC-7, Montgomery Engel wrote:
>>> Hi, does anyone know the answer to Jim's question, below, re: replacing the 
>>> alloy freehub body with a cro-mo one on Silver hubs? I removed my cassette 
>>> last night with great difficulty to discover rather large grooves in the 
>>> splines cut by the cassette. Grateful for any advice.
>>> 
 On Thursday, August 6, 2015 at 4:21:09 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
 Question is, can a steel replacement be obtained?  A prior post pointed 
 out a 6 pawl cro-mo freehub from the same manufacturer, is it a direct fit?
 
 http://o-lite.com.tw/news.php?m=d&id=16&p=1
 
> On Thu, Aug 6, 2015 at 3:12 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
> The prevailing worry is your cassette cogs will dig into the splines and 
> make it difficult to remove your cassette down the line.  It's a pretty 
> common thing for riders like us to just say "enough, I'm never buying an 
> alloy cassette body again".  It's one of the reasons many of us think 
> Deore XT from the late 90's early 00's were so great.  So many of them 
> that they are really cheap.  Still made in Japan so they were good 
> quality.  Steel axles and steel driveshells so your gears come off easy, 
> no matter what you do.  The only acceptable lightweight alternative for 
> many is Ti (white industries, Dura Ace).  
> 
> If Rich says they are nice then I trust they are nice, but many in this 
> group will hear alloy drive shell and will steer clear.  It's a fact. I'd 
> probably give them a shot, but if Riv had asked me to spec their Silver 
> rear 

[RBW] Re: What tires fit good on 700c Sun CR18 rims?

[Eric Karnes]

I've had nothing but nightmarish experiences with these rims. Maybe I got 
part of a bad batch (I've read there were some that were oversized). 

I tried a number of different tires, from supple compasses to stout 
schwalbes to good 'ol pasellas. At best it took 20 minutes of muscling and 
a few pinch flats to get them on. At worst, they simply wouldn't fit…even 
with tubeless tape. No problems mounting any of these tires on Dyads or 
OpenPros. And only a little finagling to get them on another tubeless-ready 
rim I had laying around (can't remember now what it was).

If you already have them, large wire-bead tires were 'easiest' to get on 
for me. But if you're thinking of purchasing the rims, I'd go with Dyads or 
OpenPros instead (depending on what width tire you are planning to run). 
Just my two cents...

Eric

On Tuesday, August 21, 2018 at 1:36:46 AM UTC-4, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
>
> Anyone recommend a tire that goes on/off these rims easy and by hand (no 
> levers).
> Will GB Cypress?
> Paselas are very hard to get on/off even with levers feel like I am gonna 
> break something. Would not want to have to change a flat in the field.

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Wally Estrella]

Came across this on a random WWW search of baskets and racks.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jimg/12060356153/in/photostream/
At least for these ones it was bolt/fork crown snap and not the canti 
mounts.


On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:16:51 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Apparently enough crazies are overloading their Wald baskets on Nitto 
> racks, breaking them and suing over it that now Nitto is saying "no 
> baskets".  Rivendell cares what Nitto says, and so Grant posted on the 
> Blahg that we shouldn't run baskets.  There have been other vendors 
> claiming Nitto Racks carry a lot more weight than Nitto themselves claim.  
> Some gullible people think that means that racks from other vendors are 
> 'stronger' than the ones you buy from Rivendell.  The fact is, a failed 
> front rack is a big problem, and conservative recommendations are intended 
> to protect your head, even if that discourages you from buying something:
>
> GRANTS BLAHG 
> 
>
> Be careful out there.  Use your Manny strap.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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Re: [RBW] Thought on Dyno vs. asymmetrical battery headlights?

[Patrick Moore]

For occasional use, or for my "gofast" -- that should read: 'go "fast" ' --
bike, I prefer a battery light, but I do want dynamo systems on the bikes
that get ridden more regularly in the dark.

I have a B&M Ixon IQ Premium that I bought on list that, apart from a
somewhat cheesy clamp, works very well -- broad, bright beam, at least,
High is bright, tho' not as bright as my Edeluxe 1 or the even brighter and
later plastic lamp on the Dahon (at shop, so can't look at name). I think
B&M claim 3 hours on High.

At any rate, it uses AAs, which is good for me because this light sees only
sporadic use, and I don't have to worry about battery charge "shelf life."

Are there other German-spec battery lights on the market? I'm not sure if
the Ixon IQ Premium is still made.

Also, if one were to replace his Edeluxe 1 with a newer German spec lamp,
what would you (all) choose, and why? I see the PJW has some new models ...

If you convert a wheel, even with a $300 SON, and all the more with a SP or
Shimano, your cost will be a lot less than $500. I'm getting the Hon Solo
front wheel converted, and even if I'd paid full list for the (Biologic)
hub -- $150 (I paid less) -- and needed 32 spokes (the wheel has 20), the
total would be no more than $250 with tax.



On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 8:43 AM, Lum Gim Fong  wrote:

> Thinking about asymmetrical lighting for my bike sp as to not blind
> drivers.
> One of my bikes has dyno, which is great.
> But wondering if foregoing a new 500$ Dyno wheel and 200$ light and
> getting one of those asymmetrical battery lights is better.
> Thoughts?
> Weight and drag less with battery light I imagine. This is a 700c go fast
> Roadeo I would be lighting up.
>
> Seems like battery lights brighter and more advanced lenses and more
> affordable these days. Is dyno necessary anymore for rides less than 100
> miles?
>
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Re: [RBW] What tires fit good on 700c Sun CR18 rims?

[Coal Bee Rye Anne]

I'll second the Challenge open tubulars.  I currently have PRO Chicanes 
mounted to a CR18 700c wheelset and they went on easily if I remember 
correctly.  Much easier than a pair of Ruffy Tuffys I previously used that 
required much more persuasion on the same wheels.

Brian Cole
Lawrence, NJ

On Tuesday, August 21, 2018 at 9:35:56 AM UTC-4, Tim Gavin wrote:

> Avoid any tubeless-ready tires; they seem to have a tighter bead than 
> non-tubeless ones.  
>
> I bet the absolute easiest to mount would be an open tubular, like 
> Challenge's PRO series.  The Strada Bianca Pro is their widest road tread 
> at 30 mm, and they have some wider ones (Alamanzo and Gravel Grinder) with 
> semi-knobby tread.  
> http://www.challengetech.it/products/gravel/strada-bianca-pro-040/en
>
> They're handmade on a tubular tire casing, and the bead is a very simple 
> cord folded into the casing.  They're about the same price as Compass EL 
> tires.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 12:36 AM, Lum Gim Fong  > wrote:
>
>>
>> Anyone recommend a tire that goes on/off these rims easy and by hand (no 
>> levers).
>> Will GB Cypress?
>> Paselas are very hard to get on/off even with levers feel like I am gonna 
>> break something. Would not want to have to change a flat in the field.
>>
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[RBW] Re: Full brimmed hat recommendations

[Pondero]

I like my Tilley, and use it frequently.  But, as Craig said, it can be hot 
in some conditions.  I also use a straw cowboy hat for better ventilation 
and a wider brim.  The brim on mine is stiff enough for my needs.  I use a 
stampede strap to help keep it on during zippier descents.

Chris Johnson
Sanger, Texas

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[RBW] Re: Full brimmed hat recommendations

[John Phillips]

Chris, Who made your straw cowboy hat?

Thanks,

John

On Tuesday, August 21, 2018 at 10:22:14 AM UTC-7, Pondero wrote:
>
> I like my Tilley, and use it frequently.  But, as Craig said, it can be 
> hot in some conditions.  I also use a straw cowboy hat for better 
> ventilation and a wider brim.  The brim on mine is stiff enough for my 
> needs.  I use a stampede strap to help keep it on during zippier descents.
>
> Chris Johnson
> Sanger, Texas
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: 65 Homer Hilsen F/F/HS

[Reed Kennedy]

This one is all mine now. Thanks Ben!

Now I just gotta figure out which parts to build it up with. H...


Reed

On Fri, Aug 10, 2018 at 2:11 PM Ben Miller  wrote:

> For your consideration, a 65 Homer Hilsen Frame/Fork/Headset made a
> Waterford. $1000+shipping via Bikeflights
>
> No dents or dings. Some beausage, lost paint chips from normal use.
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZozAp9arDV1WVdw99
>
> Cheers,
> Ben
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Full brimmed hat recommendations

[Tim Gavin]

Laing-

Likewise, I've never found a motorcycle helmet that was* too *big.  But my
2XL HJC (Sy-Max model, IIRC) fits my 7 7/8 head pretty comfortably.

I once got a 2XL Bern Brentwood bicycle helmet.  I had to exchange it for
the 3XL!

-Tim

On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 8:34 AM, lconley  wrote:

> Put me in the Tilley camp. Bought my 1st one when I was taking sailing
> lessons on the recommendation of the instructor. They even make them that
> are too big for my head - wish I could find a motorcycle helmet that was
> too big.
>
> Made in Canada.
>
> Laing
> Cocoa FL
>
>
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[RBW] WTB sugino xd double

[nathaniel nichols]

Looking for a sugino or similar double, 170ish mm arms, silver, sq tapered, 
rings or no rings 

Nat
Oakland ca

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[RBW] Re: Full brimmed hat recommendations

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I shifted to Tilley’s organic cotton mesh hat, and it’s a much lighter fabric 
than their sail cloth. Very cool, still hearty.

With abandon,
Patrick

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Re: [RBW] FS: 65 Homer Hilsen F/F/HS

[Joe Bernard]

Nice catch, Reed! 

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[RBW] Re: Thought on Dyno vs. asymmetrical battery headlights?

[Tom Wyland]

On my primary allrounder/commuter I have dynamo wheel and lights.  Here are 
the reasons I like the dynamo:

1) If you ride it every day it's just one more thing you don't have to 
worry about. I'm also not "saving" my battery charge for when it's "really 
dark."
2) Battery lights don't work very well in the cold. I had too many battery 
lights die on me on dark winter nights.
3) Three words: Daytime Running Lights. I'm pretty sure the always-on 
lights on my IQ Fly have saved me from several left hooks. 

Instead of having a fancy custom-made dynamo wheel I ordered mine from 
Germany, where everyone is required to run lights on their bikes. It's 
sturdy and utilitarian, but you won't win any races with the extra weight 
and drag of any dynamo system.

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[RBW] Re: Thought on Dyno vs. asymmetrical battery headlights?

[lconley]

Not a fan of batteries. 
Batteries are, in general, a nasty, dirty, environmentally damaging 
technology. 
Many of them are made of carcinogenic and/or poisonous materials (lead, 
cadmium, etc.) You really don't want to drink ground water that come from 
the vicinity of a battery manufacturing plant.   
The electricity used to charge the batteries can come from burning coal 
(although cruciferous vegetable fueled dyno powered emissions can be fairly 
obnoxious). 
I prefer dyno powered lights.

Laing
Cocoa FL


>

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[RBW] Re: WTB sugino xd double

[sameness]

Hi there--

I've got a set of silver 175mm double arms with no rings. Text logo, not 
the old crown logo. Let me know if you are interested and I'll send some 
pics?

Thanks!

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

On Tuesday, August 21, 2018 at 11:15:00 AM UTC-7, nathaniel nichols wrote:
>
> Looking for a sugino or similar double, 170ish mm arms, silver, sq 
> tapered, rings or no rings 
>
> Nat
> Oakland ca
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[iamkeith]

Good sleuthing!  So it's the stud on the top strut that's breaking, but it's 
specifically doing so on the racks where the lower struts attach to canti 
posts.  (Sorry - don't know my model numbers well enough to refer to them that 
way.)  The stud on the regular mini racks doesn't attach at that same weird 
angle, so it makes sense that it's stronger.

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[iamkeith]

With inevitable variations in canti post-to-fork crown dimensions (let alone 
dropout-to-canti post dimensions), can't you just imagine people pre-stressing 
that particular rack by flexing and forcing it to fit?!

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[RBW] Re: Thought on Dyno vs. asymmetrical battery headlights?

[Collin A]

I agree with Tom's points. A dynamo is great for the all-rounder bikes that 
always gets ridden. My road/gofast/not-ridden-as-much bike has the battery 
lights as needed for the shorter daylight days. If you can find an 
asymmetrical light with rechargeable batteries, all the better!

On Tuesday, August 21, 2018 at 1:01:19 PM UTC-7, Tom Wyland wrote:
>
> On my primary allrounder/commuter I have dynamo wheel and lights.  Here 
> are the reasons I like the dynamo:
>
> 1) If you ride it every day it's just one more thing you don't have to 
> worry about. I'm also not "saving" my battery charge for when it's "really 
> dark."
> 2) Battery lights don't work very well in the cold. I had too many battery 
> lights die on me on dark winter nights.
> 3) Three words: Daytime Running Lights. I'm pretty sure the always-on 
> lights on my IQ Fly have saved me from several left hooks. 
>
> Instead of having a fancy custom-made dynamo wheel I ordered mine from 
> Germany, where everyone is required to run lights on their bikes. It's 
> sturdy and utilitarian, but you won't win any races with the extra weight 
> and drag of any dynamo system.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thought on Dyno vs. asymmetrical battery headlights?

[Steve Palincsar]

Trouble is, the not-ridden-as-much bike needs to have its battery 
charged for the light to work, and being not-ridden-as-much, is likely 
to have not much charge just when you need it most.



On 08/21/2018 06:22 PM, Collin A wrote:
I agree with Tom's points. A dynamo is great for the all-rounder bikes 
that always gets ridden. My road/gofast/not-ridden-as-much bike has 
the battery lights as needed for the shorter daylight days. If you can 
find an asymmetrical light with rechargeable batteries, all the better!


On Tuesday, August 21, 2018 at 1:01:19 PM UTC-7, Tom Wyland wrote:

On my primary allrounder/commuter I have dynamo wheel and lights. 
Here are the reasons I like the dynamo:

1) If you ride it every day it's just one more thing you don't
have to worry about. I'm also not "saving" my battery charge for
when it's "really dark."
2) Battery lights don't work very well in the cold. I had too many
battery lights die on me on dark winter nights.
3) Three words: Daytime Running Lights. I'm pretty sure the
always-on lights on my IQ Fly have saved me from several left hooks.

Instead of having a fancy custom-made dynamo wheel I ordered mine
from Germany, where everyone is required to run lights on their
bikes. It's sturdy and utilitarian, but you won't win any races
with the extra weight and drag of any dynamo system.




--
Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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Re: [RBW] PRCIE REDUCED: Pair of Conti TopContact Tires 700x32 *SOLD*

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Tires have been sold!

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
@CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)

> On Aug 20, 2018, at 9:29 PM, 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> Price reduced … these tires need to go! 
> 
> $50 for the pair, shipped by professionals to your work or place of residence.
> 
> --Eric Norris
> campyonly...@me.com 
> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
> 
>> On Aug 19, 2018, at 9:50 PM, 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>> > > wrote:
>> 
>> Pair of Contis in very near new condition. These came on a bike I bought and 
>> have been ridden just a few times. Switched them out for a pair of more 
>> supple tires.
>> 
>> Nice tires, perfect for a commuter or town bike. Folding. Reflective 
>> sidewalls. These go for an insane price on Amazon 
>> (https://www.amazon.com/Continental-TopContact-Vectran-Breaker-Folding/dp/B01LE30DJY/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1534740500&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=conti+topcontact+vectran
>>  
>> ),
>>  so here’s your chance to get a way better deal than Jeff Bezos will 
>> give you!
>> 
>> $75 shipped in the CONUS. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --Eric Norris
>> campyonly...@me.com 
>> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>> 
>> 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Thought on Dyno vs. asymmetrical battery headlights?

[Reed Kennedy]

I have Schmitt dynamo hubs and Edelux lights on two bikes, and I adore
them. So convenient and simple to use.

I also have another bike with a Shutter Precision hub which has been more
trouble, but is finally working well now.

Surprisingly, all three have all been left unmolested in San Francisco,
even the bike that is often parked outside.

I do have a couple other bikes that I'm often tempted to ride on longer
brevets, but don't because they don't have lights. I just ordered a Ixon IQ
so I'll have the option of riding these, and to have a light to lend to
friends who want to try a brevet without committing to a full lighting
setup. We'll see what I think of it in practice.


Best,
Reed

On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 3:45 PM Steve Palincsar  wrote:

> Trouble is, the not-ridden-as-much bike needs to have its battery charged
> for the light to work, and being not-ridden-as-much, is likely to have not
> much charge just when you need it most.
>
> On 08/21/2018 06:22 PM, Collin A wrote:
>
> I agree with Tom's points. A dynamo is great for the all-rounder bikes
> that always gets ridden. My road/gofast/not-ridden-as-much bike has the
> battery lights as needed for the shorter daylight days. If you can find an
> asymmetrical light with rechargeable batteries, all the better!
>
> On Tuesday, August 21, 2018 at 1:01:19 PM UTC-7, Tom Wyland wrote:
>>
>> On my primary allrounder/commuter I have dynamo wheel and lights.  Here
>> are the reasons I like the dynamo:
>>
>> 1) If you ride it every day it's just one more thing you don't have to
>> worry about. I'm also not "saving" my battery charge for when it's "really
>> dark."
>> 2) Battery lights don't work very well in the cold. I had too many
>> battery lights die on me on dark winter nights.
>> 3) Three words: Daytime Running Lights. I'm pretty sure the always-on
>> lights on my IQ Fly have saved me from several left hooks.
>>
>> Instead of having a fancy custom-made dynamo wheel I ordered mine from
>> Germany, where everyone is required to run lights on their bikes. It's
>> sturdy and utilitarian, but you won't win any races with the extra weight
>> and drag of any dynamo system.
>>
>
>
> --
> Steve Palincsar
> Alexandria, Virginia
> USA
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: The Silver Hubs

[Eric Daume]

Some aluminum freehubs put a small steel strip on the load bearing part of
the gear mating profile. Seems like a good idea.

Eric

On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 10:50 AM 'Montgomery Engel' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> I think that’s probably right. I contacted Rivendell and they do not have
> and did not know of any cromo replacements. I think there are more alloy
> freehub bodies out there that are compatible, but I think I’m just going to
> ride this freehub into the ground, i.e., until I can’t get the cassettes
> off or I have to rebuild the wheel and then decide whether to chance it
> with another alloy body or get another hub. I sort of doubt KT is going to
> be making a cromo replacement.
> It seems to me this is an engineering error. The softer alloy splines are
> the same depth as the harder cromo splines in the Shimamo compatible
> bodies. It strikes me that they should have increased their depth to
> compensate for the weaker metal. Instead, no surprise, it seems like their
> answer was to use pricier, interlocking cassettes that are probably less
> likely to cut the splines, but I’d so much rather have a bulletproof but
> heavier freehub body and keep using reasonably priced cassettes that I
> think probably wear at similar rates to the cheap ones!
> Thanks for the thoughts on this.
>
> On Aug 15, 2018, at 6:18 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>
> I looked at that Ben's Cycle listing for a SRAM freehub.  I'd bet a dollar
> that IF it's really gold in color, like that picture, that it is not in
> fact steel.  I don't know of a way to make steel be that color.  That's a
> picture of an aluminum freehub body.  If the item you are actually buying
> looks alot different from the photo, then maybe it's steel.  They might be
> referring to the drivering itself, with the ratchet splines, which most
> certainly is steel.
>
> BL in EC
>
> On Wednesday, August 15, 2018 at 12:40:55 PM UTC-7, Jeremy Till wrote:
>>
>> I've been researching the possibility of getting a cromo freehub body for
>> Silver hubs and haven't actually come up with a solution but do have a
>> couple of leads:
>>
>> 1. After some sleuthing I have come to believe that the Silver hubs were
>> manufactured by KT, a Taiwanese company that manufacturers hubs for a
>> number of other brands, and whose website used to show a cromoly
>> replacement freehub with the same mechanism as the Silver ones.  I emailed
>> them about the possibility of getting one in the U.S. and was directed to
>> HiFi wheels, a boutique wheel builder in Portland whom I assume is a North
>> American agent for KT.  They don't list the freehub bodies on their
>> website, and they never responded to my email inquiry.  You may have better
>> luck--let us know if you do!
>>
>> http://ridehifi.com/
>>
>> 2. I have recently discovered that the SRAM S40/60/80 wheels seem to have
>> used a KT hub with the same freehub mechanism, and that there is a
>> replacement freehub body out there that looks like the Silver one and is
>> listed as being steel:
>>
>>
>> https://www.benscycle.com/sram-s406080-910-speed-freehub-body-and-seal/freehub_body_sram_freehub_bodies_8116_fw4553/product
>>
>> (It's listed in the QBP catalog and thus is available from a number of
>> vendors, this is just the first one that showed the material).  Buying this
>> was going to be my next attempt (haven't do so yet), but I will say that I
>> have no idea if it is actually going to work on a Silver hub and if it is
>> indeed steel. If you buy one, let us know how it works out!
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 15, 2018 at 10:59:12 AM UTC-7, Montgomery Engel
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi, does anyone know the answer to Jim's question, below, re: replacing
>>> the alloy freehub body with a cro-mo one on Silver hubs? I removed
>>> my cassette last night with great difficulty to discover rather large
>>> grooves in the splines cut by the cassette. Grateful for any advice.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 6, 2015 at 4:21:09 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Question is, can a steel replacement be obtained?  A prior post pointed
 out a 6 pawl cro-mo freehub from the same manufacturer, is it a direct fit?

 http://o-lite.com.tw/news.php?m=d&id=16&p=1

 On Thu, Aug 6, 2015 at 3:12 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> The prevailing worry is your cassette cogs will dig into the splines
> and make it difficult to remove your cassette down the line.  It's a 
> pretty
> common thing for riders like us to just say "enough, I'm never buying an
> alloy cassette body again".  It's one of the reasons many of us think 
> Deore
> XT from the late 90's early 00's were so great.  So many of them that they
> are really cheap.  Still made in Japan so they were good quality.  Steel
> axles and steel driveshells so your gears come off easy, no matter what 
> you
> do.  The only acceptable lightweight alternative for many is Ti (white
> industries, Dura Ace).
>

[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[EasyRider]

Yep, I think that might be part of the problem. Nitto knows best so if they say 
it's because the rack is getting overloaded, ok. But unlike the Marks and 32f 
mini, the level of the m12 platform is not adjustable unless some part gets 
bent. (Those other racks have fork brackets or p clamps for adjustability). 

That pic makes it looks Iike people might be compromising the m12, or cracking 
the fork crown bolt on installation: First bolting it to the fork crown and 
then using the platform for leverage to bend the rack level, or so the canti 
struts line up. Are they bending it at a weld? 

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Linda G]

I like the Velo Orange randonneur racks. The canti model has a diving board 
type fork crown attachment, unlike the Nitto. I also have the sidepull 
model, which I bought first, and they have beefed up the rack between the 
time I bought that one and the canti type. I have a basket on the sidepull 
model and have carried around 15 pounds on it routinely. I also have a 
basket on a Nitto R-14 rear rack and carry 15 pound loads on that. 
Rivendell content: I  bought the R-14 and the baskets from Rivendell.  I do 
not run a front rack on my one Rivendell frame, a Roadini, since it's not 
recommended

On Tuesday, August 21, 2018 at 1:45:04 PM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote:
>
> Good sleuthing!  So it's the stud on the top strut that's breaking, but 
> it's specifically doing so on the racks where the lower struts attach to 
> canti posts.  (Sorry - don't know my model numbers well enough to refer to 
> them that way.)  The stud on the regular mini racks doesn't attach at that 
> same weird angle, so it makes sense that it's stronger.

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[RBW] Full brimmed hat recommendations

[EasyRider]

I have an Ex Oficio boonie hat that is just ok. On re plus side, it's shaped a 
little diff than a boonie to give more neck coverage, and it's very light, 
unlike a surplus store boonie, which just traps heat. The downside is the 
sizing is coarse and the brim is not really shapeable. I think here are better 
hats out there.

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[RBW] FS: Nitto B302 North Road Bars

['jeffrey kane' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hey Eric — what’s the clamp size?

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Re: [RBW] FS: Nitto B302 North Road Bars

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Sorry ... 25.4

Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy

> On Aug 21, 2018, at 6:03 PM, 'jeffrey kane' via RBW Owners Bunch 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey Eric — what’s the clamp size?
> 
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Re: [RBW] FS: 65 Homer Hilsen F/F/HS

[John G.]

Reed, I feel like you and I ride similar sized bikes. What’s your PBH?

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Adam in Indiana]

Awesome find, that answers a lot of questions!



On Tuesday, August 21, 2018 at 11:54:06 AM UTC-4, Wally Estrella wrote:
> Came across this on a random WWW search of baskets and racks.
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/jimg/12060356153/in/photostream/
> At least for these ones it was bolt/fork crown snap and not the canti mounts.
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:16:51 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
> 
> Apparently enough crazies are overloading their Wald baskets on Nitto racks, 
> breaking them and suing over it that now Nitto is saying "no baskets".  
> Rivendell cares what Nitto says, and so Grant posted on the Blahg that we 
> shouldn't run baskets.  There have been other vendors claiming Nitto Racks 
> carry a lot more weight than Nitto themselves claim.  Some gullible people 
> think that means that racks from other vendors are 'stronger' than the ones 
> you buy from Rivendell.  The fact is, a failed front rack is a big problem, 
> and conservative recommendations are intended to protect your head, even if 
> that discourages you from buying something:
> 
> 
> GRANTS BLAHG
> 
> 
> Be careful out there.  Use your Manny strap.  
> 
> 
> 
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA

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[RBW] FS: MAP Ahearne Bars

[Eric Karnes]

Practically new set of MAP Ahearne bars. Only ridden a few times. Just not 
my thing. They are the wider 610mm variety and are in great condition save 
a few scratches near the clamp and the grip area. I'll include an unbranded 
set of long-reach mountain brakes I have on there. Asking $40 shipped 
CONUS. PM me off list if interested.

Eric

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[RBW] Re: FS: MAP Ahearne Bars

[sameness]

Hit or miss, so: PM sent!

Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

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[RBW] Re: Full brimmed hat recommendations

[Pondero]

John, my straw hat is made by Resistol.

Patrick, thanks for the cotton mesh Tilley tip.  I'll check it out!

Chris Johnson
Sanger, Texas

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[RBW] FS: Clem H 52 mustard

[Joe Bernard]

SOLD

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Philip Williamson]

Way easier to bend the canti struts than the mounting bolt, at least on my 
M14 (which also broke, but after 13 years of any old load). 
Maybe the basket rack is going to be the exact same rack, but with a 
different/better connection to the mounting bolt. Maybe it'll have a basket 
tacked right to the rack!

Philip
Santa Rosa, CA  

On Tuesday, August 21, 2018 at 5:23:28 PM UTC-7, EasyRider wrote:
>
> Yep, I think that might be part of the problem. Nitto knows best so if 
> they say it's because the rack is getting overloaded, ok. But unlike the 
> Marks and 32f mini, the level of the m12 platform is not adjustable unless 
> some part gets bent. (Those other racks have fork brackets or p clamps for 
> adjustability). 
>
> That pic makes it looks Iike people might be compromising the m12, or 
> cracking the fork crown bolt on installation: First bolting it to the fork 
> crown and then using the platform for leverage to bend the rack level, or 
> so the canti struts line up. Are they bending it at a weld? 
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[Justin, Oakland]

It makes me winded if the compas adjustable disc rack has the same failure 
mode? Or the Riv mini camper rack? Or the Granary rack? I’m assuming the main 
reason for the breakage is not weight but the bending that happens to get an 
m12 to fit in any bike. 

-J

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