Re: [RBW] The Bike Snob is getting a Rivendell!

[Joe Bernard]

Ah. I'm clearly not hip enough for the room. 

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Re: [RBW] The Bike Snob is getting a Rivendell!

[Patrick Moore]

Tan Tenovo is a product of Weiss's (sp?) irreverent sense of humor. He got
ticketed while riding a test bike, called "Renovo" IIRC, and it was tan --
was this the wooden framed bike? -- and the cop mispelled it as "Tan
Tenovo" on the ticket. So of course, Weiss had to use it as his nom de
plume.

Backstory:
https://bikesnobnyc.blogspot.com/2018/06/the-indignity-of-getting-ticket.html


On Wed, Feb 12, 2020 at 10:36 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Wait, I thought Bike Snob was that Eben guy. Who's Tan Tenovo? (I don't
> read the blog)
>
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> .
>


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---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] I need to repair or mask scratches in new black paint

[Ian A]

I agree with others to use some cutting compound then follow with polish. The 
scratches should blend very well. The automotive product I am used to in the UK 
is called T Cut and is available in a black colour. Almost certainly an 
equivalent product is available at your local auto store. 

Those scratches should polish right out or be sufficiently improved as to be 
unnoticeable. Repainting/hiding would likely be much more noticeable. 

IanA Alberta Canada (currently using compound polish purchased at Napa for such 
scratches).

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Re: [RBW] The Bike Snob is getting a Rivendell!

[Joe Bernard]

Wait, I thought Bike Snob was that Eben guy. Who's Tan Tenovo? (I don't read 
the blog)

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Re: [RBW] The Bike Snob is getting a Rivendell!

[masmojo]

Question is is he kidding about getting a Rivendell or is he kidding about it 
having a crabon fork & dick brakes!? My guess would be the later rather than 
the former.
Grant & Tan Tenovo do have some history, my major worry is that companies who 
give snobby long term test bikes tend to go out of business shortly there after 
and that does bode well for Rivendell. 

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[RBW] Re: I need to repair or mask scratches in new black paint

[masmojo]

Go to the local hobby shop get a small bottle of Testors gloss black.
Whilst having a small amount of paint thinner handy; dab paint in the scratch 
with a small brush then wipe the area quickly witha soft clean rag. The idea is 
to leave paint in the scratch whilst removing it from  the surrounding area. 
Might take several tries. If your first attempt is unacceptable, simply wipe 
off with the paint thinner and try again until you get it.

Let dry and buff/polish.

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[RBW] Re: I need to repair or mask scratches in new black paint

[Drw]

Seconded. Don’t know what kind of bars/stem you intend on using, but if that’s 
the area where the bars would swing around and hit, I’d wrap that area anyway 
to prevent a dent.
It almost looks like the area you’d want to protect, but hard to know without 
the front end installed.

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[RBW] Re: Tire Recommendations for an All-Rounder

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I'll second Patrick's recommendation of the Rene Herse/Compass Naches Pass 
tires, if you have a 559 All-Rounder.

I've been using these exclusively for my 559 Atlantis since the tire's 
introduction, and have nothing but good experiences – they're fast, but not 
fragile, and are quite durable to boot. I've used them mainly on paved 
roads, although I've also taken them "gravel grinding" on occasion, with no 
ill effects. You don't have to splurge for the *Extra Leger* version unless 
you're shooting to get that last 5%.

Ironically, my own 559 All-Rounder currently has Rene Herse/Compass Rat 
Trap Pass tires. These are the fat 2.3"-wide brothers of the Naches Pass 
tires, and I'm giving them yet another try, after failing to like them the 
last three times. LOL! I find the RTP tires an unconvincing fit for my type 
of riding. As fat tires, you run them at low pressure as per their r*aison 
d'être*. However, that means they can get a bit too wobbly/sloppy when 
hammering off-saddle or cornering aggressively on paved roads with good 
grip. They're best on non-paved surfaces like rougher gravel, where a bit 
of slip+wobble is expected and thus not so disconcerting, but I don't do a 
lot of that; or perhaps they're good for folks who ride smoother than I do. 
:)

If you're looking for something not as spendy ($71 *each* plus shipping is 
nuts if you're not a bike nut), I like the basic Paselas. I used those 
before the Naches Pass tire debuted, and they're fine as moderately fast, 
95/5-road/trail tires. In fact, I sometimes miss the "Pasela hum". Other 
possibilities as you move up the price ladder are the Continental Sport 
Contact II 
, 
and Schwalbe Marathon Racer 
. I 
don't have first hand experience with these, although they did test well. I 
don't recommend narrower tires for an All-Rounder, as I believe in 
leveraging the tire clearance of the design.

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[RBW] Re: Tire Recommendations for an All-Rounder

[Kevin Lindsey]

In later versions, some of the larger sizes took 700c, but mine sports 
26-inch wheels.
Thanks,
Kevin Lindsey
Alexandria, VA

On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 8:24:35 PM UTC-5, Ian Dickson wrote:
>
> Did the All-Rounder take 26" tires?
>
> On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 5:31:43 PM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
>>
>> Greetings.
>> I just purchased a 1999-ish All-Rounder frame and am currently pulling 
>> together the parts to build it up.  I'd appreciate any recommendations on 
>> the type of tires I should consider; I'll be riding almost exclusively on 
>> pavement (maybe some off-road somewhere down the line), no heavy loads, and 
>> am looking for something moderately fast.
>> Thanks,
>> Kevin Lindsey
>> Alexandria, VA
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tire Recommendations for an All-Rounder

[Andrew Letton]

 Larger size All-Rounders were designed around 700c wheels... like my 65cm 
All-Rounder.cheers,Andrew
On Thursday, February 13, 2020, 12:41:19 PM GMT+11, Patrick Moore 
 wrote:  
 
 Yes; it was an improvement of the XO-1, in fact.


On Wed, Feb 12, 2020 at 6:24 PM Ian Dickson  wrote:

Did the All-Rounder take 26" tires?

On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 5:31:43 PM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
Greetings.I just purchased a 1999-ish All-Rounder frame and am currently 
pulling together the parts to build it up.  I'd appreciate any recommendations 
on the type of tires I should consider; I'll be riding almost exclusively on 
pavement (maybe some off-road somewhere down the line), no heavy loads, and am 
looking for something moderately fast.Thanks,Kevin LindseyAlexandria, VA



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---Patrick 
MooreAlburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum





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Re: [RBW] Re: Tire Recommendations for an All-Rounder

[Patrick Moore]

Yes; it was an improvement of the XO-1, in fact.



On Wed, Feb 12, 2020 at 6:24 PM Ian Dickson  wrote:

> Did the All-Rounder take 26" tires?
>
> On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 5:31:43 PM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
>>
>> Greetings.
>> I just purchased a 1999-ish All-Rounder frame and am currently pulling
>> together the parts to build it up.  I'd appreciate any recommendations on
>> the type of tires I should consider; I'll be riding almost exclusively on
>> pavement (maybe some off-road somewhere down the line), no heavy loads, and
>> am looking for something moderately fast.
>> Thanks,
>> Kevin Lindsey
>> Alexandria, VA
>>
> --
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> 
> .
>


-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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Re: [RBW] Tire Recommendations for an All-Rounder

[Patrick Moore]

Forgot to say that I expect that the Nachez Pass is the better tire for an
All Rounder, but a plug for the Elk Pass for simply dreamily smooth and
fast rolling. Despite its gossamer weight and onion-skin casing, it
actually works fine in firm gravel and thin sand; as well as the 559 X 32
mm Pasela (about 30 mm on narrow rims), tho' I expect that the EP would be
impossible here without sealant in the tubes because of our goatheads
(haven't tried it so). I rode the Pasela with tubes, no sealant, for a
number of years, though this did require a great deal of patching because
of the thorns -- my tolerance, pre-sealant, for patching, was pretty wide.
The 559 X 32 Pasela weighed ~250 grams; the EP 178, actual weights. The EP
is faster and smoother and has a much wider "nice" pressure range, and the
tread lasts at least as long (1,500 miles rear, with frequent rear loads
including my 170-175 lb), while the sidewalls actually last longer -- those
of the Pasela are notoriously fragile, or were 10-12 years ago.

But the Pasela is tolerable, faut de mieux, and I saw recently that it is
still available in the folding, non TG model; it's also available in the TG
modell. You can get almost 3 of these for the cost of an Elk Pass.

While we're at it: The 559 X 35 (31 or so mm actual on 23 mm rims) Kojak is
IMO better than the Pasela; rolls at least as well, lasts much longer,
resists flats much better; I fixed perhaps half the flats on these as with
the Paselas. I could get these and similar 700C Kojaks under fenders on my
2003 Riv Road custom and on my Ram. I expect that the All Rounder's
clearance is at least as good and probably a bit better.

On Wed, Feb 12, 2020 at 6:20 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> The Rene Herse/Compass Elk Pass (labeled 32, 29 mm on 23 mm rims) or the
> Nachez Pass, labeled 47 mm but others say 41 mm on ordinary road-width
> rims. The EP comes only in the "extra light" design but I think you can get
> the NP in both regular and diet.
>
> God willing, I'll shortly be getting around to actually beginning to start
> to initiate the first steps of the early part of the process of beginning
> to do something about getting a bike to fit both of these tires and fenders
> and an old AM hub, before too much longer. (I do have the wheel! Quite a
> build feat by Kelly at the westside High Desert; getting the 40 holes into
> a 32 hole rim involved spoke washers and every 4th spoke a bit longer than
> the other 28. Aaron at Rat City Bikes in Seattle overhauled the hub; he
> knows hub gears!).
>
> On Wed, Feb 12, 2020 at 5:31 PM Kevin Lindsey 
> wrote:
>
>> Greetings.
>> I just purchased a 1999-ish All-Rounder frame and am currently pulling
>> together the parts to build it up.  I'd appreciate any recommendations on
>> the type of tires I should consider; I'll be riding almost exclusively on
>> pavement (maybe some off-road somewhere down the line), no heavy loads, and
>> am looking for something moderately fast.
>> Thanks,
>> Kevin Lindsey
>> Alexandria, VA
>>
>> --
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/31ca0da9-beab-4c24-84e3-2a8ec0cee5fb%40googlegroups.com
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>
>
>

-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: Raid Bill's Stable: Nine bikes available For Sale

[John G.]

What I really like about Bill’s Legolas vs Roadeo analysis is that is focuses 
so much on handling, rather than trying chase down some feeling based on 
tubing. I’ve never ridden a Legolas, but his description of how a Roadeo 
handles is dead on. You will be faster on your Roadeo than your other bikes, 
and you will feel really confident while you’re at it. The only reason I would 
ever sell my Roadeo is to size up to a 63cm.

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[RBW] Re: Tire Recommendations for an All-Rounder

[Ian Dickson]

Did the All-Rounder take 26" tires?

On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 5:31:43 PM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
>
> Greetings.
> I just purchased a 1999-ish All-Rounder frame and am currently pulling 
> together the parts to build it up.  I'd appreciate any recommendations on 
> the type of tires I should consider; I'll be riding almost exclusively on 
> pavement (maybe some off-road somewhere down the line), no heavy loads, and 
> am looking for something moderately fast.
> Thanks,
> Kevin Lindsey
> Alexandria, VA
>

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Re: [RBW] Tire Recommendations for an All-Rounder

[Patrick Moore]

The Rene Herse/Compass Elk Pass (labeled 32, 29 mm on 23 mm rims) or the
Nachez Pass, labeled 47 mm but others say 41 mm on ordinary road-width
rims. The EP comes only in the "extra light" design but I think you can get
the NP in both regular and diet.

God willing, I'll shortly be getting around to actually beginning to start
to initiate the first steps of the early part of the process of beginning
to do something about getting a bike to fit both of these tires and fenders
and an old AM hub, before too much longer. (I do have the wheel! Quite a
build feat by Kelly at the westside High Desert; getting the 40 holes into
a 32 hole rim involved spoke washers and every 4th spoke a bit longer than
the other 28. Aaron at Rat City Bikes in Seattle overhauled the hub; he
knows hub gears!).

On Wed, Feb 12, 2020 at 5:31 PM Kevin Lindsey 
wrote:

> Greetings.
> I just purchased a 1999-ish All-Rounder frame and am currently pulling
> together the parts to build it up.  I'd appreciate any recommendations on
> the type of tires I should consider; I'll be riding almost exclusively on
> pavement (maybe some off-road somewhere down the line), no heavy loads, and
> am looking for something moderately fast.
> Thanks,
> Kevin Lindsey
> Alexandria, VA
>
> --
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> 
> .
>


-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Tire Recommendations for an All-Rounder

[Kevin Lindsey]

Greetings.
I just purchased a 1999-ish All-Rounder frame and am currently pulling 
together the parts to build it up.  I'd appreciate any recommendations on 
the type of tires I should consider; I'll be riding almost exclusively on 
pavement (maybe some off-road somewhere down the line), no heavy loads, and 
am looking for something moderately fast.
Thanks,
Kevin Lindsey
Alexandria, VA

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Re: [RBW] The Bike Snob is getting a Rivendell!

[Kent Peterson -- Eugene, Oregon]

Patrick,

I think you missed the big "Just Kidding" picture that was right below the 
reference to the carbon fork & disk brakes.

Kent Peterson
Eugene, OR USA

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Re: [RBW] The Bike Snob is getting a Rivendell!

[Patrick Moore]

Custom Rivendell with disc brakes and carbon fiber fork. He also spec'd a
hub gear. I know Grant said he won't build with any of those, but he used
to say he'd never build without lugs. I'll wager 10 to 1 that it's either a
Roadeo or an Appaloosa. Or something else.

Seriously, it will be interesting to learn what he bought and learn his
reasons. OTOH, I will seriously wager 10:1 that he won't give up his
favorite (per his posts) other bikes.

On Wed, Feb 12, 2020 at 3:41 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
jonasandle...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> https://bikesnobnyc.com/2020/02/12/new-outside-column-and-exciting-news-for-me/#more-608
>
> What bike did he choose? Did he get a fancy custom? Something less fancy
> since he lives in NYC? How long do we have to wait?
>
> --

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Re: Help me buy a Riv

[Joe Bernard]

Hehe, Bike Snob has been to RBW and ridden some bikes. I know because he 
dropped me like a stone on a dirt trail at Mt. Diablo 

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[RBW] My sweater just shipped!

[David Bivins]

I was so excited that Bike Snob is getting a Rivendell that I missed the
big news in my inbox - my Cheviot sweater just shipped! Thankfully we still
have some cold weather ahead this year.

I'm assuming more than a few people on this list ordered them as well.

Take care,

David (Brooklyn, NY)

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[RBW] Re: Help me buy a Riv

[Mark Roland]

Wait. Is thisBike Snob incognito?

On Tuesday, February 11, 2020 at 9:58:33 AM UTC-5, Graham McCall wrote:
>
> I’m currently trying to decide what Riv to buy for a general around town 
> city build. Plan would be upright bars, front rack and dynamo build. 
>
> I’d like something that isn’t specifically designed around carrying a ton 
> of stuff. I’d prefer something fun to ride then be built to carry the 
> kitchen sink. 
>
> What frames have people built up this way that feel great? 
>
> I was thinking a Joe, Homer, etc. I also love the Clem, but haven’t ridden 
> any Riv. 
>
> Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: I need to repair or mask scratches in new black paint

[Mark Roland]

This stuff works pretty good. 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiars-M10532-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-cut-Compound-32-Oz/29724007
If you don't like walmart, Harbor Freight sells it for $14 more. So does 
Autozone. Walmart is nominally better than Amazon, which I don't use. Got 
mine at the local Autozone, but in a smaller bottle.

You might need to wax or polish afterward. If any deeper scratches remain, 
I use a black marker. 

On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 3:18:01 PM UTC-5, Dave Small wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Two years ago I bought a new black Sam Hillborne frame from Rivendell. 
>  For reasons not relevant to this post, I couldn't do anything with it then 
> so kept it unopened in the box in my basement until this past weekend, when 
> I opened the box intending to take it to my mechanic to have it built up. 
>  Upon removing the frame from the box and tearing away the bubble wrap from 
> the top tube I discovered extensive scratches on the top of the top tube 
> midway between the seat and head tubes.  Cardboard had rubbed through the 
> bubble wrap surrounding the top tube and then rubbed against the frame as 
> the frame wobbled left to right during shipping, and this was the result.  
>
> The scratches are superficial but readily apparent at a glance, and are in 
> nearly the worst spot possible.  I'd like to fix or mask these somehow, or 
> else I'll see them every time I look down and be unhappy with the bike. 
>  The best solution would be to have the top tube (and only the top tube) 
> repainted, but I don't know a local frame painter (in Indianapolis) who I 
> could take it to for that, or if a painter could paint *only* the top 
> tube and have everything match.  I have three other ideas, but don't know 
> if I'd be happy with them once they're implemented:
>
> 1. Have a cream panel painted on the top tube to match the cream head tube 
> and the cream seat tube panel.
> 2. Wrap the scratched part of the TT with black or honey leather, which 
> would provide the additional benefit of giving me a contact spot to use to 
> lean the bike against a pole if I ever need to.  
> 3. Twine the scratched section, with shellac if there's no chance of the 
> shellac hurting the paint and without shellac if there is.  
>
> I'll always have a honey saddle on the bike, if that helps you picture 
> these options.  
>
> Do any of you know a painter near Indianapolis who could paint the top 
> tube to match?  What do y'all think of the ideas above?  Do you have any 
> better options?  I'd appreciate the input.  Thanks.
>
> Dave
> Indianapolis, IN
>

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[RBW] Re: F.S. Compass, Gran bois, nitto, paul etc...

[MAP]

sent email to given address on:
11. *Nitto Jitensha bar *26.0 $35 

On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 12:30:15 PM UTC-8, Dylan A wrote:
>
> Update:
> Brooks c-17 
> Compass tires 
> Nitto bull moose 
> Paul brakes 
> Have all been sold.  

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[RBW] The Bike Snob is getting a Rivendell!

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

https://bikesnobnyc.com/2020/02/12/new-outside-column-and-exciting-news-for-me/#more-608

I have waited for this day since I knew The Bike Snob was a fan. Why has he 
waited so long? What bike did he choose? Did he get a fancy custom? Something 
less fancy since he lives in NYC? How long do we have to wait?

I’m so excited for him - and sad for the rest of his bikes. He’ll never ride 
them again. 

 Leah

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[RBW] Re: I need to repair or mask scratches in new black paint

[George Schick]

Joe - or just take it to a bike painter and get their opinion on whether 
the scratches can be removed by just being rubbed out (with whatever 
technique they'd use).  *And* then see if they'd do if if it sounds to 
risky for a DIY job.  A good painter *should* agree to that and for a 
modest price.


On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 3:59:12 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I think that's the ticket, get that Scratch-Off stuff at an auto parts 
> store that goes on like wax and wipes off. Or just find a bike painter to 
> do the toptube, gloss black shouldn't be too hard to match. 

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[RBW] Re: I need to repair or mask scratches in new black paint

[Joe Bernard]

I think that's the ticket, get that Scratch-Off stuff at an auto parts store 
that goes on like wax and wipes off. Or just find a bike painter to do the 
toptube, gloss black shouldn't be too hard to match. 

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[RBW] Re: I need to repair or mask scratches in new black paint

[George Schick]

Laing - instead of the W/D sandpaper how about rubbing or, better yet, 
polishing compound, applied with a rag and some water?  I've rubbed out 
scratches on automobiles with that stuff before and it works just fine. 
 You should be able to get it at an auto part store.


On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 3:38:15 PM UTC-6, lconley wrote:
>
> You could also try an auto or motorcycle detailer or a paint-less dent 
> remover professional if you don't want to do it yourself.
>
> You can always start with 3000 or 5000 grit or the highest grit you can 
> find to develop some experience and confidence. The higher the grit number, 
> the less paint it removes.
>
> Laing
>
>
> On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 3:56:10 PM UTC-5, Dave Small wrote:
>
>> Thanks, Laing.  Sad to say, it's a 58cm.  
>>
>> I thought about polishing but didn't want to make it worse (I've learned 
>> the hard way that I have a tendency to do that sometimes) if I had other 
>> options.  I hadn't thought about Youtube, and it's a good idea.  I'll look 
>> there.  
>>
>> Dave
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: I need to repair or mask scratches in new black paint

[lconley]

You could also try an auto or motorcycle detailer or a paint-less dent 
remover professional if you don't want to do it yourself.

You can always start with 3000 or 5000 grit or the highest grit you can 
find to develop some experience and confidence. The higher the grit number, 
the less paint it removes.

Laing


On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 3:56:10 PM UTC-5, Dave Small wrote:

> Thanks, Laing.  Sad to say, it's a 58cm.  
>
> I thought about polishing but didn't want to make it worse (I've learned 
> the hard way that I have a tendency to do that sometimes) if I had other 
> options.  I hadn't thought about Youtube, and it's a good idea.  I'll look 
> there.  
>
> Dave
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: crankarms or crankset 170mm with 110 / 74 BCD - Sugino, Specialized "Flags", Velo Orange, or anything silver

[Nick Payne]

Spa Cycles in the UK have their own version of the XD in lengths down to 
160mm, and they only cost £25: 
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m2b0s109p2003/SPA-CYCLES-XD-2-Touring-Cranks. 


Nick

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[RBW] Re: I need to repair or mask scratches in new black paint

['Dave Small' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thanks, Laing.  Sad to say, it's a 58cm.  

I thought about polishing but didn't want to make it worse (I've learned 
the hard way that I have a tendency to do that sometimes) if I had other 
options.  I hadn't thought about Youtube, and it's a good idea.  I'll look 
there.  

Dave

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[RBW] F.S. Compass, Gran bois, nitto, paul etc...

[Dylan A]

Update:
Brooks c-17 
Compass tires 
Nitto bull moose 
Paul brakes 
Have all been sold.  

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[RBW] Re: I need to repair or mask scratches in new black paint

[lconley]

Get some 1000 & 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper and start polishing, 1000 grit 
first, then 2000. It will take a while, but the sand paper is so fine that 
you won't be able to remove too much paint too fast. I imagine that that 
are some YouTube directions on this sort of thing. The scratches don't look 
like they have penetrated through the color coat, so you can probably make 
them virtually disappear. when you are done, use some rubbing compound, 
then a coat of wax.

Or if it's a 55, you could sell it to me, cheap.

Laing
Delray Beach FL



On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 3:18:01 PM UTC-5, Dave Small wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Two years ago I bought a new black Sam Hillborne frame from Rivendell. 
>  For reasons not relevant to this post, I couldn't do anything with it then 
> so kept it unopened in the box in my basement until this past weekend, when 
> I opened the box intending to take it to my mechanic to have it built up. 
>  Upon removing the frame from the box and tearing away the bubble wrap from 
> the top tube I discovered extensive scratches on the top of the top tube 
> midway between the seat and head tubes.  Cardboard had rubbed through the 
> bubble wrap surrounding the top tube and then rubbed against the frame as 
> the frame wobbled left to right during shipping, and this was the result.  
>
> The scratches are superficial but readily apparent at a glance, and are in 
> nearly the worst spot possible.  I'd like to fix or mask these somehow, or 
> else I'll see them every time I look down and be unhappy with the bike. 
>  The best solution would be to have the top tube (and only the top tube) 
> repainted, but I don't know a local frame painter (in Indianapolis) who I 
> could take it to for that, or if a painter could paint *only* the top 
> tube and have everything match.  I have three other ideas, but don't know 
> if I'd be happy with them once they're implemented:
>
> 1. Have a cream panel painted on the top tube to match the cream head tube 
> and the cream seat tube panel.
> 2. Wrap the scratched part of the TT with black or honey leather, which 
> would provide the additional benefit of giving me a contact spot to use to 
> lean the bike against a pole if I ever need to.  
> 3. Twine the scratched section, with shellac if there's no chance of the 
> shellac hurting the paint and without shellac if there is.  
>
> I'll always have a honey saddle on the bike, if that helps you picture 
> these options.  
>
> Do any of you know a painter near Indianapolis who could paint the top 
> tube to match?  What do y'all think of the ideas above?  Do you have any 
> better options?  I'd appreciate the input.  Thanks.
>
> Dave
> Indianapolis, IN
>

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[RBW] Re: Help me buy a Riv

[Mike Packard]

Hi Graham

Where are you located? Maybe someone on the list has some you can test ride.

In any case, Homer all the way. It's the sprightly-est. I've owned several 
Rivs and I'm keeping my Homer w/Albatross forever.

Mike in Austin 



On Tuesday, February 11, 2020 at 8:58:33 AM UTC-6, Graham McCall wrote:
>
> I’m currently trying to decide what Riv to buy for a general around town 
> city build. Plan would be upright bars, front rack and dynamo build. 
>
> I’d like something that isn’t specifically designed around carrying a ton 
> of stuff. I’d prefer something fun to ride then be built to carry the 
> kitchen sink. 
>
> What frames have people built up this way that feel great? 
>
> I was thinking a Joe, Homer, etc. I also love the Clem, but haven’t ridden 
> any Riv. 
>
> Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Help me buy a Riv

[Ed Carolipio]

A front rack with upright bars to me implies Appaloosa or Clem due to the 
sturdier front fork and longer reach. (I've owned both.) Prudent component 
selection will allow you to maintain that "fun" factor. Pick a Clem H if 
price is a driver; a Clem L if you want to experience the joy of step 
thrus; and the Joe if you want the beauty of a fully lugged frame.

--Ed C.

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[RBW] WTB: crankarms or crankset 170mm with 110 / 74 BCD - Sugino, Specialized "Flags", Velo Orange, or anything silver

[Pancake]

And I’ve got crankarms in the mail from Justin!

Thanks for the suggestions and help. I’ll report back if I can feel a 
difference and if it helps with knee pain. Stretching and some PT exercises in 
the meantime.

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[RBW] Re: Why a rear disc on the tandem?

[Shoji Takahashi]

I have my HHH drag brake operated via Shimano deerhead shifter mounted 
inboard on Boscos. Going down the hills, I use my thumb to actuate the 
drag/disc brake. My shifters are bar-ends (right-rear/left-front); and 
brake levers are standard.

Works great for scrubbing speed.

shoji
Arlington MA 



On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 6:18:30 AM UTC-5, Mark Roland wrote:
>
> As mentioned, a third brake at the rear wheel was used to slow tandems on 
> steep descents. For many years the brake spec'd for this was the Arai drum 
> brake. When they stopped manufacturing, there wasn't much in the way of 
> alternatives (though now apparently there are replacements available 
> again. 
> )
>  
> With disc brakes now much improved and obviously available, made sense to 
> go that way (as most tandems have for some time, I believe--a bunch now 
> made full disc.) 
>
> There are several ways to configure the drag brake. You can have one lever 
> operate both rim brakes, the other operate the drag. Or have the rear rim 
> and the drag on the same lever. Or have the drag operate independently, 
> usually with a lever at the end of the handlebar (precludes using two 
> bar-end shifters for front shifting).
>
> Here is an article by Sheldon Brown explaining the various ins and outs 
> of tandem braking , and 
> why option 3 above is the way to go in terms of setting up the drag. (The 
> disc info is a bit dated. Most of the article was written when "V" brakes 
> were "new-style" cantilevers.)
>
> On Tuesday, February 11, 2020 at 9:55:40 PM UTC-5, S wrote:
>>
>> Just curious, from a design perspective, why does the Hubbuhubbah tandem 
>> have a rear disc brake? Thanks. 
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Increasing chainstay clearance to run wider tires

[C.J. Filip]

Thanks, Doug.  

Hope the 132.5mm spacing can be kept as I am running a 135mm setup.

Member Frank did the same to his 60cm Saluki and suggested contacting Mark 
Nobilette for this service and mentioned the labor was $35.  

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[RBW] Re: Increasing chainstay clearance to run wider tires

[Doug Coleman]

>
> I had a local frame builder (Jamie Swan) indent my chainstays on my 
> Romulus so I could 48mm tires on a 650b conversion. Everything went 
> smoothly, paint was intact and the dropout spacing was brought in to 130, 
> instead on 132.5. 
>
- Doug 

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[RBW] Re: Raid Bill's Stable: Nine bikes available For Sale

[Bill Lindsay]

I've got the Legolas set up with 700x35 (37mm actual width) Bon Jon Pass 
Extralights right now, and have been using it as a road bike while the 
trails are still soupy.  I've taken both the Legolas and the Roadeo (with 
700x32 Stampede Pass EL) on my typical ~40 mile hilly road routes.  They 
are both fun, both fast, but the Roadeo is decidedly more stable.  The 
Legolas is a fair bit twitchier and more nervous.  It's particularly 
notable when I'm pedaling hard at high cadence.  Like descending at ~30mph, 
and then you hit a short flat or rise and want to carry speed to the next 
stretch of descent.  Pedaling hard in the saddle to carry my momentum the 
front end reacts with a wiggle to every pedal stroke.  The Roadeo tracks 
straighter and takes that input in a more stable way.  On steeper descents 
I also feel more stable and in control on the Roadeo.  I feel alot calmer 
at 45mph on the Roadeo than I do on the Legolas.  The Roadeo feels like a 
stage race road bike, and the Legolas feels like a crit bike.  Cyclocross 
racing kind of is a dirt crit, so it makes sense to me.  

I do still think that a Nobilette Roadeo with cantilever brakes could be 
close to the ultimate.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Wednesday, February 12, 2020 at 5:24:30 AM UTC-8, Karl wrote:
>
> I still do not need a Legolas but it’s my size doh! 
>
> Karl 
> Legolas-less in Nashville, TN

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[RBW] Re: Raid Bill's Stable: Nine bikes available For Sale

[Karl]

I still do not need a Legolas but it’s my size doh!

Karl
Legolas-less in Nashville, TN

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[RBW] Re: Why a rear disc on the tandem?

[Mark Roland]

As mentioned, a third brake at the rear wheel was used to slow tandems on 
steep descents. For many years the brake spec'd for this was the Arai drum 
brake. When they stopped manufacturing, there wasn't much in the way of 
alternatives (though now apparently there are replacements available again. 
)
 
With disc brakes now much improved and obviously available, made sense to 
go that way (as most tandems have for some time, I believe--a bunch now 
made full disc.) 

There are several ways to configure the drag brake. You can have one lever 
operate both rim brakes, the other operate the drag. Or have the rear rim 
and the drag on the same lever. Or have the drag operate independently, 
usually with a lever at the end of the handlebar (precludes using two 
bar-end shifters for front shifting).

Here is an article by Sheldon Brown explaining the various ins and outs of 
tandem braking , and why 
option 3 above is the way to go in terms of setting up the drag. (The disc 
info is a bit dated. Most of the article was written when "V" brakes were 
"new-style" cantilevers.)

On Tuesday, February 11, 2020 at 9:55:40 PM UTC-5, S wrote:
>
> Just curious, from a design perspective, why does the Hubbuhubbah tandem 
> have a rear disc brake? Thanks. 
>
>
>

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https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/3f6e8e42-5360-4320-8934-8e37573ab5a8%40googlegroups.com.