[RBW] Re: beautifying beausage: caring for worn paint

[Pancake]

Some polish wouldn’t hurt but it won’t do much. Options:
(1) If you can get or mix some matching-ish paint and fill it in with a tiny 
paint brush or even a toothpick. A little denatured alcohol to smooth down 
lumps of excess paint. Nail polish could also work. 
(2) Embrace it as is, won’t hurt anything.
(3) Wrap it, nice look and means you can do anything you like further down the 
road.
Abe

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Re: [RBW] Crash Stories

[dstein]

I think Philip's takes the cake, yikes.

I went over the handlebars going downhill last year (Tunnel Rd in Oakland 
for you Bay Area folks), not sure what happened but the caliper brakes on 
my Frank Jones Sr. got caught in the spokes of the front wheel and locked 
it, face planted the pavement, wasn't going super fast, but easily 
15-20mph, I had to brake hard the turn before to avoid a squirrel so maybe 
something shook loose then. Ended up with 8 stitches on my chin and 6 on my 
upper lip that scarred pretty bad, I'll pretty much always have a beard 
now, I was just thinking of shaving it off right before the accident. Ate 
through a straw for 2 weeks my mouth was so busted (miraculously did not 
even chip a tooth!). The whole thing shook me up pretty bad, I'm just now 
starting to ride a little bit again, but it'll never be like before. 
Previous accident was a skid and sideways fall, also on pavement, ended up 
with a grapefruit size hematoma that took me out of commission for 2 weeks 
as well.  

I'm amazed at the number of people that will pass you on the side of the 
road all bloodied up (it was pretty gnarly) and barely slow down, 
continuing to ride. I'd say 10+ people rode right on by. One guy said 'oh, 
that will hurt, you'll never be the same', and kept riding. Luckily someone 
did stop and hang out with me until my wife came. Who knows, maybe I would 
have been one of those non stopping people if the situation was reversed, 
not in the future though that's for sure.

Stay safe out there folks. Check your brakes every now and then, make sure 
they're on there tight. And don't go too fast. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: sturdy wheelset, 61cm Roadini frame, Gravelking EXTs, Brooks C15, handlebar bag, etc.

[Matthew P]

Is the C15 Cambium the wide one?  I can't remember and couldn't easily find 
this on the Brooks site.
Thanks.

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 8:54:25 PM UTC-7, Matt Dreher wrote:
>
> Frame remains unsold!
>
> On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 9:11:32 PM UTC-5, Matt Dreher wrote:
>>
>> Some riv-ish (like the frame, obviously), some not, but I still think it 
>> belongs here. Feel free to make an offer, particularly if you want to buy 
>> multiple things along with the frame. I've been trying to sell the thing 
>> but nobody's quite biting yet... pictures of everything on request. 
>> Shipping included.
>>
>>
>>- 2x Gravelking EXT, 700x35 brownwall, very lightly used: $50 for the 
>>pair
>>- Wheelset: 700c Alexrims G6000 on RS400 (Tiagra) hubs, 36-spoke 
>>front and rear, all-silver: $120
>>- Brooks Cambium C15 carved, dark grey: $40
>>- Fizik Antares FSX, chartreuse/purple test saddle: $30
>>- Nitto B136 bars, 26.0 clamp, 40cm: $35
>>- Campagnolo Nuovo Record derailleur, new Shimano pulleys, like-new 
>>condition: $40
>>- Blackburn Wayside handlebar bag, used: $25
>>- La Vie Claire "Mondrian" jersey replica from onlinecyclinggear.com, 
>>2XL, lightly used: $20
>>- Rivendell Roadini frame/fork/headset/seatpost, 61cm, normal wear 
>>from a year's use but slightly crunchy headset: $500
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: sturdy wheelset, 61cm Roadini frame, Gravelking EXTs, Brooks C15, handlebar bag, etc.

[Matt Dreher]

Frame remains unsold!

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 9:11:32 PM UTC-5, Matt Dreher wrote:
>
> Some riv-ish (like the frame, obviously), some not, but I still think it 
> belongs here. Feel free to make an offer, particularly if you want to buy 
> multiple things along with the frame. I've been trying to sell the thing 
> but nobody's quite biting yet... pictures of everything on request. 
> Shipping included.
>
>
>- 2x Gravelking EXT, 700x35 brownwall, very lightly used: $50 for the 
>pair
>- Wheelset: 700c Alexrims G6000 on RS400 (Tiagra) hubs, 36-spoke front 
>and rear, all-silver: $120
>- Brooks Cambium C15 carved, dark grey: $40
>- Fizik Antares FSX, chartreuse/purple test saddle: $30
>- Nitto B136 bars, 26.0 clamp, 40cm: $35
>- Campagnolo Nuovo Record derailleur, new Shimano pulleys, like-new 
>condition: $40
>- Blackburn Wayside handlebar bag, used: $25
>- La Vie Claire "Mondrian" jersey replica from onlinecyclinggear.com, 
>2XL, lightly used: $20
>- Rivendell Roadini frame/fork/headset/seatpost, 61cm, normal wear 
>from a year's use but slightly crunchy headset: $500
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Camping bikes

[Robert Tilley]

I do like racks and panniers for road tours. I think it works really well. I'm 
thinking I will add my frame bag for road tours as well since it's great place 
to add weight.

For my off-road tours I've been trying to fine tune my setup. Right now I use a 
BxB Goldback on the bars, a Porcelain Rocket frame bag and a set of Porcelain 
Rocket micro panniers on the rear. These are basically slings that hold dry 
bags. I have used a large Arkel seat bag and like it but felt that small 
panniers may work better for me. I also have a number of anything cages I can 
add if needed.

I have actually gone back to having racks front and rear on my bikepacking 
bike. I like them since they make the bike more versatile and my racks have 
mounts for anything cages on both sides. I don't care much about weight 
although lighter is better. The racks are worth the weight for me.

My current off-road platform is here:

https://roberttilley.smugmug.com/Bicycles/Tumbleweed-Prospector/i-GnrcTkw/A

Robert Tilley
San Diego, CA



Sent from my BlackBerry - the most secure mobile device


  Original Message  


From: subfas...@gmail.com
Sent: April 19, 2020 6:41 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Reply-to: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Camping bikes


Hello all,

I would love to hear how folks have set up a bike for camping duty. Any sage 
advice? I am looking forward to a time where I can ride out from the house, do 
one or two overnights, and ride home.

Let’s say in this scenario I am doing more than putting stuff in a backpack or 
bike basket and going.

Jason
SF, CA

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Re: [RBW] Crash Stories

[Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!]

I have a crash story from last week - not mine. I think this is a good thread 
to resurrect - I certainly learned some valuable lessons from your stories.

My friend, D, is a triathlete and has a lot of triathlete friends. They love to 
get their road bikes out and ride in groups. The Las Vegas Strip is a ghost 
town right now, and folks are taking their bikes and riding there. Last week, 
my friend was meeting a couple to do this very thing. When they were late, D 
didn’t really worry. They were arriving by bike, and maybe they were delayed. 
But the D’s phone rang, and the wife said there had been a crash and an 
ambulance was on the way. 

Here’s what happened.

The husband was clipped in and stood up on his pedals. He was beginning a 
descent, and when he stood, his right foot came unclipped and his foot got 
caught in the spokes. He reportedly flipped several times and was unable to 
stand at the scene. After a lot of bungling on the part of a Vegas hospital 
(the joke here is “Where do you go for medical care in Las Vegas? McCarran 
Airport.”) he was discovered to have: a dislocated right hip with a possible 
hairline fracture, a broken scapula, numerous pelvic fractures and a TON of 
road rash on his back. He’s had two surgeries already and will be bedridden for 
6 weeks. He faces a long road of PT and OT for his recovery. 

His story has haunted me ever since I heard.

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Thomson stem, CX50 cantilever

[Joe Bunik]

hi Al

Sorry for my delayed reply - the stem will be at the post office in
the morning, USPS priority mail. We are batching our outings as best
possible / juggling on the home end.

Thanks again
Joe

On 4/20/20, a spen  wrote:
> Hi Joe,
> I sent payment through PP a few days ago and followed up with a couple PM's
>
> but haven't heard anything back.  Not sure if you are getting any of this??
>
> Please let me know.
>
> Thanks,
> Al
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 15, 2020 at 2:29:41 PM UTC-5, jbu...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> Hi again,
>>
>> Okay, a couple more items to put out on the lawn:
>>
>> 1) one (a single) Shimano CX-50 cantilever / new-in-box. I have no
>> recollection where this came from, but maybe it was in a pile of bits
>> I swapped for... anyhow, don't need it this week.
>>
>> 2) Thomson Elite 110mm x 5° / 25.4 stem (black, 1-1/8" threadless). In
>> very nice, used condition with only minor pinpoint anodization nicks -
>> easily touched up w/ a sharpie.
>>
>> $35+actual for either or free shipping for both.
>>
>> =- Joe Bunik
>> Walnut Creek, CA
>>
>
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[RBW] FS: sturdy wheelset, 61cm Roadini frame, Gravelking EXTs, Brooks C15, handlebar bag, etc.

[Reid Echols]

Sent a PM on that frameset! 

Reid in Austin 

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[RBW] Re: What have you learned during the isolation?

[Joe Bernard]

"I think people packed the kids in the cars and just drove them around 
aimlessly."

I do this, I drive more now than I did in the before time. Just to be somewhere 
not in the house. 

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[RBW] Re: Camping bikes

[Drw]

Here’s me for 2 nights. Tent in frame bag, food in front, everything else on 
the back. Also have James’ stem there. 

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[RBW] Re: Camping bikes

[ted]

Ahh, slush. Grew up with it, don’t miss it.

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[RBW] Re: Camping bikes

[Max S]

That’s an amazing adventure and write-up / photo journal, Patrick! 

- Max “tripping vicariously while recounting that Vonnegut (?) thing about 6 
seasons, for April is a mess onto itself” in A2 

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[RBW] Re: What have you learned during the isolation?

[Nathan Mattia]

Yes, the increase in crazy and faster driving was almost instant in St. 
Louis.  I usually drive 10 over, and I was getting passed on city streets 
that aren’t passing types of streets.
I think part of it may be that some of our good driving habits are really 
us reacting to what’s going on.  For instance, I’ve ran way more red 
lights in-intentionally in the middle of the night when no traffic was 
around than I have in normal daytime traffic.

On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 6:20:52 PM UTC-5, aeroperf wrote:
>
>
> It’s the first time I’ve started a thread, but I’d be interested to hear 
> about what you’ve learned that’s new to you.
>
> I live on a 93 mile bike trail that’s now closed.   The bike trail, being 
> rails-to-trails, had no corners (or real hills).  So for five years I’ve 
> been cranking away in relatively straight lines.
>
> Now that I’m riding 4 laps through a small neighborhood, I’m learning how 
> to take corners at speed without pedal strikes.
> My 2015 Sam had no problem.  My 2019 Homer taught me that you had to 
> either open up the corner a little or “outside foot down, inside foot up” 
> coast through it.  They have the same 170mm crank arms, so it is probably 
> both the bottom bracket drop and the smaller wheels - 650 vs 700 - that put 
> me lower.  And 15mph might not be “speed” for others, but it is interesting 
> in tight quarters for me.
>
> So what have you learned?  Riding Zwift is fun?  Riding solo is no fun?  
> Cleaning clothes is easier without chain grease?
>
>

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[RBW] FS: sturdy wheelset, 61cm Roadini frame, Gravelking EXTs, Brooks C15, handlebar bag, etc.

[Matt Dreher]

Some riv-ish (like the frame, obviously), some not, but I still think it 
belongs here. Feel free to make an offer, particularly if you want to buy 
multiple things along with the frame. I've been trying to sell the thing 
but nobody's quite biting yet... pictures of everything on request. 
Shipping included.


   - 2x Gravelking EXT, 700x35 brownwall, very lightly used: $50 for the 
   pair
   - Wheelset: 700c Alexrims G6000 on RS400 (Tiagra) hubs, 36-spoke front 
   and rear, all-silver: $120
   - Brooks Cambium C15 carved, dark grey: $40
   - Fizik Antares FSX, chartreuse/purple test saddle: $30
   - Nitto B136 bars, 26.0 clamp, 40cm: $35
   - Campagnolo Nuovo Record derailleur, new Shimano pulleys, like-new 
   condition: $40
   - Blackburn Wayside handlebar bag, used: $25
   - La Vie Claire "Mondrian" jersey replica from onlinecyclinggear.com, 
   2XL, lightly used: $20
   - Rivendell Roadini frame/fork/headset/seatpost, 61cm, normal wear from 
   a year's use but slightly crunchy headset: $500

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[RBW] Re: steps to mount a tire / tubeless is easy?

[Joe Bernard]

"Wow, this thread has been bringing the fightin' side of folks."

CARBON FORKS ARE STUPID! Sorry, wrong thread 

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[RBW] Re: FS 60 CM Yves Gomez

[Tom Wyland]

Dave, did you end up selling? Really nice looking bike.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Thomson stem, CX50 cantilever

[a spen]

Hi Joe,
I sent payment through PP a few days ago and followed up with a couple PM's 
but haven't heard anything back.  Not sure if you are getting any of this?? 
Please let me know.

Thanks,
Al
 

On Wednesday, April 15, 2020 at 2:29:41 PM UTC-5, jbu...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hi again, 
>
> Okay, a couple more items to put out on the lawn: 
>
> 1) one (a single) Shimano CX-50 cantilever / new-in-box. I have no 
> recollection where this came from, but maybe it was in a pile of bits 
> I swapped for... anyhow, don't need it this week. 
>
> 2) Thomson Elite 110mm x 5° / 25.4 stem (black, 1-1/8" threadless). In 
> very nice, used condition with only minor pinpoint anodization nicks - 
> easily touched up w/ a sharpie. 
>
> $35+actual for either or free shipping for both. 
>
> =- Joe Bunik 
> Walnut Creek, CA 
>

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[RBW] Re: steps to mount a tire / tubeless is easy?

[DHans]

Wow, this thread has been bringing the fightin' side of folks. Or is the 
extended social distancing that is grating on nerves??? I've never tried 
tubeless but am up for trying it soon.
Doug

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 7:58:41 PM UTC-4, Roberta wrote:
>
> About 25 years ago, I go so many flats and hated it!  So, I just bought 
> solid core tires.  No flats!  The worst ride EVER!  
>
> Next pair of tires had a Kevlar insert in them.  Much better.  I've always 
> stressed the no flat, no matter how bad the ride tires.  I'm glad to try a 
> better ride, too, with tubeless.
>
> Roberta
>
> On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 6:21:06 PM UTC-4, hobie wrote:
>>
>> Tannus tire inserts are great for flat free riding w. tubes. A normal 
>> floor pump works,no compressor needed to go tubeless. It helps if your tire 
>> and rim are TLR. One layer of rim tape. Remove valve core,seat the 
>> tire,then with soapy water around both sides where the rim and tire meet 
>> lather it up. Then roll the tire on the floor back and forth. Then w. valve 
>> core in 12 O'clock postion attach pump and start pumping fast while 
>> slightly pressing the tire and rim down. Has worked for me the past couple 
>> of years. It's not that difficult. There aren't many tubeless rims on the 
>> market for rim brakes. I will never go back to tubes. 
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, April 16, 2020 at 10:29:15 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>>>
>>> Someone I won't name, because he should be gratefully honored for his 
>>> contributions and definitely never hectored about such trivia, wrote he 
>>> could think of at least 11 steps to mounting a tube in a tire off the top 
>>> of his head.
>>>
>>> I only think of 10.
>>>Put a layer of rim tape on the rim
>>>Put one bead of the tire on the rim down in the well
>>>Put talc on the tube or the inside surface of the tire.
>>>Put just enough air in the tube to give it some shape
>>>Put the tube inside the tire and around the rim (with the valve 
>>> through the hole of course)
>>>Push the other bead of the tire onto the rim and down into the well
>>>Make sure the tube isn't stuck under a tire bead anyplace
>>>Inflate to seat the beads
>>>Make sure the beads are seated
>>>Reduce pressure to what you ride
>>>
>>> What am I missing?
>>>
>>> Now for tubeless its (assuming no difficulties/hiccups)
>>>Put n layers of tubeless rim tape on the rim
>>>Install the valve stem, pull the core 
>>>Slather soapy water al over the place
>>>Put the tire on the rim
>>>Use a compressor to blow air through the valve body to seat the tire 
>>> (may spray soapy water about doing this)
>>>Put sealant in through the valve
>>>Put the valve core back in
>>>Inflate the tire (may have sealant spraying about doing this)
>>>Check that sealant isn't coming out around the bead 
>>>Spin the wheel a few times
>>>Let it sit overnight (reminds me of gluing tubulars)
>>>Re-inflate to riding pressure because it probably got soft overnight
>>>
>>> Now I'll agree that that doesn't sound too bad, only a dozen steps. I 
>>> also agree that anyone who works on stuff, and has a shop or a garage, 
>>> should get a compressor. Well worth the investment (can you say air tools, 
>>> fun). But with the potential for spraying soapy water and/or sealant about, 
>>> and the risk of significant difficulty seating/sealing the beads etc, I 
>>> don't see how an honest appraisal can really conclude its not significantly 
>>> more trouble than installing tires with tubes. Kinda like gluing tubulars. 
>>> Now I can't quote anybody saying tubeless setup is trivial and as easy as 
>>> using tubes, but I feel like some proponents sort of imply something close 
>>> to that. Am I wrong?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: What have you learned during the isolation?

[Dave Johnston]

Yesterday (Sunday) there was a lot of cars out unlike last week, I think 
people packed the kids in the cars and just drove them around aimlessly. 
(Dang Sunday Drivers)

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[RBW] Re: 30 Days of Biking!

[Brian Campbell]

Thank you!

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 7:54:42 PM UTC-4, truegolden wrote:
>
> That's a beautiful Legolas Brian.
>
> And what a great name for a bike. 
>
> Paul in Dallas 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: steps to mount a tire / tubeless is easy?

[Roberta]

About 25 years ago, I go so many flats and hated it!  So, I just bought 
solid core tires.  No flats!  The worst ride EVER!  

Next pair of tires had a Kevlar insert in them.  Much better.  I've always 
stressed the no flat, no matter how bad the ride tires.  I'm glad to try a 
better ride, too, with tubeless.

Roberta

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 6:21:06 PM UTC-4, hobie wrote:
>
> Tannus tire inserts are great for flat free riding w. tubes. A normal 
> floor pump works,no compressor needed to go tubeless. It helps if your tire 
> and rim are TLR. One layer of rim tape. Remove valve core,seat the 
> tire,then with soapy water around both sides where the rim and tire meet 
> lather it up. Then roll the tire on the floor back and forth. Then w. valve 
> core in 12 O'clock postion attach pump and start pumping fast while 
> slightly pressing the tire and rim down. Has worked for me the past couple 
> of years. It's not that difficult. There aren't many tubeless rims on the 
> market for rim brakes. I will never go back to tubes. 
>
>
> On Thursday, April 16, 2020 at 10:29:15 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>>
>> Someone I won't name, because he should be gratefully honored for his 
>> contributions and definitely never hectored about such trivia, wrote he 
>> could think of at least 11 steps to mounting a tube in a tire off the top 
>> of his head.
>>
>> I only think of 10.
>>Put a layer of rim tape on the rim
>>Put one bead of the tire on the rim down in the well
>>Put talc on the tube or the inside surface of the tire.
>>Put just enough air in the tube to give it some shape
>>Put the tube inside the tire and around the rim (with the valve 
>> through the hole of course)
>>Push the other bead of the tire onto the rim and down into the well
>>Make sure the tube isn't stuck under a tire bead anyplace
>>Inflate to seat the beads
>>Make sure the beads are seated
>>Reduce pressure to what you ride
>>
>> What am I missing?
>>
>> Now for tubeless its (assuming no difficulties/hiccups)
>>Put n layers of tubeless rim tape on the rim
>>Install the valve stem, pull the core 
>>Slather soapy water al over the place
>>Put the tire on the rim
>>Use a compressor to blow air through the valve body to seat the tire 
>> (may spray soapy water about doing this)
>>Put sealant in through the valve
>>Put the valve core back in
>>Inflate the tire (may have sealant spraying about doing this)
>>Check that sealant isn't coming out around the bead 
>>Spin the wheel a few times
>>Let it sit overnight (reminds me of gluing tubulars)
>>Re-inflate to riding pressure because it probably got soft overnight
>>
>> Now I'll agree that that doesn't sound too bad, only a dozen steps. I 
>> also agree that anyone who works on stuff, and has a shop or a garage, 
>> should get a compressor. Well worth the investment (can you say air tools, 
>> fun). But with the potential for spraying soapy water and/or sealant about, 
>> and the risk of significant difficulty seating/sealing the beads etc, I 
>> don't see how an honest appraisal can really conclude its not significantly 
>> more trouble than installing tires with tubes. Kinda like gluing tubulars. 
>> Now I can't quote anybody saying tubeless setup is trivial and as easy as 
>> using tubes, but I feel like some proponents sort of imply something close 
>> to that. Am I wrong?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] 30 Days of Biking!

[in Dallas nick]

That's a beautiful Legolas Brian.
And what a great name for a bike. 
Paul in Dallas 

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Re: [RBW] 30 Days of Biking!

[Brian Campbell]

Quick post work video call ride. 12 miles ad 1400' of climbing. Quick stop 
on the way home for photo op:



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[RBW] Re: Camping bikes

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hey Jason! Here's my prototype Gus Boots last year: 
https://deaconpatrick.org/three-days-three-states-three-countries-by-beorn-the-bikepacking-wonder

With abandon,
Patrick

On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 7:41:08 PM UTC-6, J L wrote:
>
> Hello all, 
>
> I would love to hear how folks have set up a bike for camping duty. Any 
> sage advice? I am looking forward to a time where I can ride out from the 
> house, do one or two overnights, and ride home. 
>
> Let’s say in this scenario I am doing more than putting stuff in a 
> backpack or bike basket and going. 
>
> Jason 
> SF, CA

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Re: [RBW] 30 Days of Biking!

['Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch]

@Andy: Welcome, Andy! As Masmojo points out, the Albastache is usually 
mounted other way round -- the benefit being a much more comfortable hand 
position in the curves.

@Leah asked what it takes to work your core on a bike. You pulled on those 
handlebars, effectively doing squats and sit-up simultaniously. That'll do 
the trick. Grin.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 8:16:41 AM UTC-6, ANDREW ALLEN ERMAN wrote:
>
> Hi, all!  My name is Andy and I am new to your group.  I had a great ride 
> today on my Roadini.  I just changed the handle bars from Noodles to 
> Albastache - the modification enhanced my pleasure greatly.
>
> Best,
>
> Andy
>
>
>
> On Apr 19, 2020, at 5:28 PM, Roberta > 
> wrote:
>
> Everyone's stories and pictures are so inspiring!  Alas, I have no great 
> ones, other that I get in 4-5, sometimes 6, rides in per week, more than I 
> was doing before our current situation.  Working from home and not 
> commuting or working until dark has freed up 2-3 hours of my day.  I didn't 
> feel like a ride yesterday,  so I went for a walk instead.  
>
> Inspired by Paul in Dallas' ride to the grocery store the other day, I 
> hopped on my She-Devil, the perfect in - town bike, and rode to a hardware 
> store across town, 4 miles RT.  The basket and net on the back was a gift 
> of AHH owner who lived near me, moved to the UK, and offered it on the 
> list.  I love it. 
>
> Once I got home, that bike went into my breezeway and I took Joe Appaloosa 
> for a nice 12 mile ride.  Came home smiling.
>
> On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 10:19:17 AM UTC-4, truegolden wrote:
>
> Pic from an earlier grocery run during this 'crisis'.
>
>
> I've made up a bit for missed days with multiple rides on several days.
>
>
> Thursday,  Friday,  and Saturday I got in 60 miles total. 
> My wife joined me for about half of that.
>
>
> I have a goal of at least 200 for the month.
>
>
> We are amazed at all the families getting out and about for exercise, 
> fighting 'cabin fever, like us I guess.
>
>
> One of my biggest frustrations is having to keep my 'distance ' from my 10 
> month old granddaughter!
>
>
> That's pretty minor compared to many folks sore trials but still very 
> frustrating for me.
>
>
> Paul in Dallas
>
>
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> 
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Dyno light installation, which side of the do you prefer?

[Peter White]

It's only been a very few years that we've had sufficiently bright
emitters to allow a wide beam to be projected that was bright enough to be
useable. Back when Singer and Herse were building bikes the beams had to be
very narrow to be at all useful. So there was no meaningful shadow, on
either side. Mounting the light on the left made perfect sense.

These days, mounting the light on either side creates a huge and obnoxious
shadow. If at all possible, mount the headlight on center. Why waste
photons illuminating your tire?

PJW

On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 11:19 AM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> The great French constructeurs (Singer, Herse, etc.) mounted the light on
> the left side of the small front rack or on the front fender. Never on the
> righthand side. Trust the experts.
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyonly...@me.com
> www.campyonly.com
> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com
>
> On Apr 20, 2020, at 7:57 AM, ted  wrote:
>
> When faced with this situation I’ve gone with mounting on the left side.
> This lights up more pavement since one rides on the right side of the lane.
> However mounting on the right would give shadow free illumination of the
> road edge, so you might prefer that.
> This is why I’m so disappointed they stoped putting the plate with a
> mounting whole on the front center of the marks and mini front racks.
> Personally, I really really want my front light dead center. Not having the
> tire centered in the beam drives me crazy.
>
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> .
>
>
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> .
>


-- 
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[RBW] Re: steps to mount a tire / tubeless is easy?

['hobie' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Tannus tire inserts are great for flat free riding w. tubes. A normal floor 
pump works,no compressor needed to go tubeless. It helps if your tire and 
rim are TLR. One layer of rim tape. Remove valve core,seat the tire,then 
with soapy water around both sides where the rim and tire meet lather it 
up. Then roll the tire on the floor back and forth. Then w. valve core in 
12 O'clock postion attach pump and start pumping fast while slightly 
pressing the tire and rim down. Has worked for me the past couple of years. 
It's not that difficult. There aren't many tubeless rims on the market for 
rim brakes. I will never go back to tubes. 


On Thursday, April 16, 2020 at 10:29:15 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>
> Someone I won't name, because he should be gratefully honored for his 
> contributions and definitely never hectored about such trivia, wrote he 
> could think of at least 11 steps to mounting a tube in a tire off the top 
> of his head.
>
> I only think of 10.
>Put a layer of rim tape on the rim
>Put one bead of the tire on the rim down in the well
>Put talc on the tube or the inside surface of the tire.
>Put just enough air in the tube to give it some shape
>Put the tube inside the tire and around the rim (with the valve through 
> the hole of course)
>Push the other bead of the tire onto the rim and down into the well
>Make sure the tube isn't stuck under a tire bead anyplace
>Inflate to seat the beads
>Make sure the beads are seated
>Reduce pressure to what you ride
>
> What am I missing?
>
> Now for tubeless its (assuming no difficulties/hiccups)
>Put n layers of tubeless rim tape on the rim
>Install the valve stem, pull the core 
>Slather soapy water al over the place
>Put the tire on the rim
>Use a compressor to blow air through the valve body to seat the tire 
> (may spray soapy water about doing this)
>Put sealant in through the valve
>Put the valve core back in
>Inflate the tire (may have sealant spraying about doing this)
>Check that sealant isn't coming out around the bead 
>Spin the wheel a few times
>Let it sit overnight (reminds me of gluing tubulars)
>Re-inflate to riding pressure because it probably got soft overnight
>
> Now I'll agree that that doesn't sound too bad, only a dozen steps. I also 
> agree that anyone who works on stuff, and has a shop or a garage, should 
> get a compressor. Well worth the investment (can you say air tools, fun). 
> But with the potential for spraying soapy water and/or sealant about, and 
> the risk of significant difficulty seating/sealing the beads etc, I don't 
> see how an honest appraisal can really conclude its not significantly more 
> trouble than installing tires with tubes. Kinda like gluing tubulars. Now I 
> can't quote anybody saying tubeless setup is trivial and as easy as using 
> tubes, but I feel like some proponents sort of imply something close to 
> that. Am I wrong?
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 30 Days of Biking!

[WETH]

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 2:35:09 PM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
> Andy, although you are free to do as you wish, typically the Albastash is 
> mounted the other way round. With the ends lower than the middle.

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[RBW] Re: beautifying beausage: caring for worn paint

[Joe Bernard]

Maybe George, but paint questions are above my pay grade. I wrap stuff 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul and White Industries Parts

[Michael Ullmer]

Short Pull Levers are gone.

Also, the moon units from the brakes sold separately, so those brakes are 
now $100 shipped.

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 12:04:07 PM UTC-7, Michael Ullmer wrote:
>
> Cross posting from the i-bob list
>
> 1) White Industries ENO Crank Arms Black 175mm with Ti Crank Bolts - $110 
> shipped
> --Typical scratches from use, some of the black anodizing has worn off 
> near the middle. Including the lock ring and a set of Ti Crank Bolts. I 
> also have a 32t chainring that I could include for an additional $35. 
>
> 2) Paul Short Pull Love Levers - $85 shipped
> --In great condition save for a small scuffs on each lever end (see pics) 
> These are the newer version with bearings rather than bushings. 
>
> 3) Paul Long Pull Love Levers - $75 shipped
> --These are in fine shape, they're just the earlier version with a bushing 
> rather than a bearing. These developed a bit of play over time, but Paul 
> sent me some very narrow washers that I put in to take out the play. I can 
> also include the Avid BB7 Mtn calipers they were paired with for an extra 
> $20.
>
> 4) Paul Canti Brakes - Neo Retro and Touring with Moon Units - $125 shipped
> --One bikes worth, anodized black. The brake pivots show some wear where 
> the previous owner seems to have gripped them with a pliers. This has not 
> impacted the function of the brakes when I used them. I also have a 
> matching front Funky Monkey 1 1/8 I can include for an extra $30.
>
> Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/tN1Z2zLPXX5HWa3M9
>
> PM off-list
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Touring Cantis, VO brake set and thumbie mount, possible tires

[Zed Martinez]

Brake sets sold. Thumbie adaptors and tires still up for grabs. 

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[RBW] Re: beautifying beausage: caring for worn paint

[George Schick]

But Joe, ain't this also true of powder coating.  IIRC, Grant himself made 
a blog post about discontinuing powder coating, esp. clear coating on the 
proveltos, because he saw signs of rust underneath the clear PC.  Unlike 
true wet coat paints, no primer is used with PC jobs.  The primer is 
designed to form a chemical bond between the steel and the paint and then 
subsequent base and clear coats on top of that.


On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 1:08:19 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> He could wrap it since the damage is already done, but personally I really 
> dislike this trend on steel frames. I want to be able to see what's going 
> on under there, and I worry that moisture gets trapped under all that fancy 
> wrapping/shellacking/twining folks are doing to their Rivs. 

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Re: [RBW] Dyno light installation, which side of the do you prefer?

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Yes. I imagine if Singer was located in London they would mount the headlight 
on the righthand side.

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

> On Apr 20, 2020, at 11:33 AM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> 
> French drive on the right, like us.
> 
> On 4/20/20 2:24 PM, Tom Palmer wrote:
>> Hi Eric,
>> Would it matter what side of the road was ridden for a side rack mount? I am 
>> sure they folks you reference knew what they were doing, do not know what 
>> side of road the French drive. I know GB is left and another poster said the 
>> French and English builders agreed on the left.
> 
> British fork blade lamp mounts are on the right fork blade.
> 
> 
> 
>> I personally want more light on the road shoulder so mount on right as far 
>> forward as I can. 
> 
> Actually, with an Edelux or Edelux II it really doesn't make any difference 
> which side of the bike you mount the light, the beam is so broad a few inches 
> displacement of the mount doesn't mean anything.  Now with an old-style 
> Halogen lamp, where the beam is as narrow as a light saber, it might matter - 
>  and of course the original lamps these mounts were made for were far worse 
> than that.
> 
> 
> 
>> Tom Palmer
>> Twin Lake, MI, US
>> 
>> On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 11:20:00 AM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>> The great French constructeurs (Singer, Herse, etc.) mounted the light on 
>> the left side of the small front rack or on the front fender. Never on the 
>> righthand side. Trust the experts.
>> 
>> --Eric Norris
>> campyo...@me.com <>
>> www.campyonly.com 
>> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
>> 
>>> On Apr 20, 2020, at 7:57 AM, ted > wrote:
>>> 
>>> When faced with this situation I’ve gone with mounting on the left side. 
>>> This lights up more pavement since one rides on the right side of the lane. 
>>> However mounting on the right would give shadow free illumination of the 
>>> road edge, so you might prefer that.
>>> This is why I’m so disappointed they stoped putting the plate with a 
>>> mounting whole on the front center of the marks and mini front racks. 
>>> Personally, I really really want my front light dead center. Not having the 
>>> tire centered in the beam drives me crazy.
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>>> email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com <>.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/725bdd34-806a-4b27-8b78-1ac1ee7f7ecc%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> .
>> 
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>>  
>> .
> -- 
> Steve Palincsar
> Alexandria, Virginia 
> USA
> 
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> .

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[RBW] Re: Cherry Blossoms Season!

['Hetchins52' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Hi Takashi,
Extraordinary roads!
And, your fenders look at home among the trees and blossoms!

David

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 7:12:33 AM UTC-7, Takashi wrote:
>
> Several pictures from Sunday's ride.
>
> I revisited the place I rode last Friday. Some of the cherry blossoms have 
> fallen off, covering the road surface like a pink carpet.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Camping bikes

[J L]

This thread is super helpful everyone. Keep the ideas and experiences coming if 
you have them.

Jason

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Touring Cantis, VO brake set and thumbie mount, possible tires

[Zed Martinez]

Both brake sets pending. Sorry all who emailed me, had some work come up, 
I'll reply to everybody in order.

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 2:31:37 PM UTC-4, Zed Martinez wrote:
>
> Hey all, so, while I was digging through the parts storage for a few 
> things this weekend for listers who had some WTBs I was able to help on, I 
> found some other parts left over from my many years of experimenting with 
> Clem builds. I'm quite happy with my final build now, so, time to see if 
> these can find a happier home.
>
> All prices shipped CONUS. Outside that I'd have to check rates and work 
> with ya.
>
>
> Paul Touring Cantilevers. 1 bike's worth, matte silver finish. One with 
> the original Kool-Stop pads, gently used. The other with Jagwire pads, more 
> used. No hangers or straddle cables. One post bushing is a little chewed on 
> the outside but still functions smoothly and seals with O-ring. Cosmetic 
> issue only, and only when installing since the brake hides it when 
> installed. $90 for the pair.
>
> VO Grand Cru Mk III cantilevers. The wide-stance frog leg ones. These have 
> their hangers and the clever little barrel adjustors for the straddle 
> cables. Not as strong as the Pauls, good in dry riding, very attractive in 
> their CNC'ed way. $30 for pair.
>
> VO thumbie adapters. They're nice. They work well with the original 
> Silvers or the Dia-Compe generics of the same. Not as good with the Silver 
> 2s, the cable exit angle is wrong. $40
>
>
> And I have some 650b tires leftover from the 52 Clem. Make me a reasonable 
> offer and we'll talk, I'm a little less sure how well my ability to get 
> them out the door the next couple weeks will go but I can try.
>
> 2x Schwalbe Marathon Mondials, 2", folding bead. I forget how many miles I 
> have on them. They're Mondials, they've still got a ways to go left in them.
>
> 2x Suomi A10 studded tires, 40mm. Pretty OK on ice, not so great in snow. 
> From Peter White, so, the studs are all set nice. used one winter only, 
> lightly.
>
> 2x Continental Mountain King II 2.2". Pretty standard knobbies, only used 
> off-road once, used as fall tires one winter besides. Knobs still look fine.
>
>
> Pictures of anything available on request, I'll see if I can get some 
> today or tomorrow to put up in a reply otherwise.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Paul Touring Cantis, VO brake set and thumbie mount, possible tires

[Teague Scott]

Hey Zed,

Sent a PM.

- Teague

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[RBW] FS: Paul and White Industries Parts

[Michael Ullmer]

Cross posting from the i-bob list

1) White Industries ENO Crank Arms Black 175mm with Ti Crank Bolts - $110 
shipped
--Typical scratches from use, some of the black anodizing has worn off near 
the middle. Including the lock ring and a set of Ti Crank Bolts. I also 
have a 32t chainring that I could include for an additional $35. 

2) Paul Short Pull Love Levers - $85 shipped
--In great condition save for a small scuffs on each lever end (see pics) 
These are the newer version with bearings rather than bushings. 

3) Paul Long Pull Love Levers - $75 shipped
--These are in fine shape, they're just the earlier version with a bushing 
rather than a bearing. These developed a bit of play over time, but Paul 
sent me some very narrow washers that I put in to take out the play. I can 
also include the Avid BB7 Mtn calipers they were paired with for an extra 
$20.

4) Paul Canti Brakes - Neo Retro and Touring with Moon Units - $125 shipped
--One bikes worth, anodized black. The brake pivots show some wear where 
the previous owner seems to have gripped them with a pliers. This has not 
impacted the function of the brakes when I used them. I also have a 
matching front Funky Monkey 1 1/8 I can include for an extra $30.

Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/tN1Z2zLPXX5HWa3M9

PM off-list

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[RBW] Re: FS: 60cm Simpleone F/F/HS/Wheels

[C.J. Filip]

Price reduced to $750 plus shipping.

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Re: [RBW] Re: 30 Days of Biking!

[masmojo]

Covid ride #6

14.6 miles

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PsezWxaPP61PiCkM8

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[RBW] Re: What have you learned during the isolation?

[Joe Bernard]

I've noticed the freeways here are heavily patrolled lately. The Highway Patrol 
has less wrecks to attend to and plenty of speeders to catch. Fish in a barrel!

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Re: [RBW] Re: 30 Days of Biking!

[masmojo]

Andy, although you are free to do as you wish, typically the Albastash is 
mounted the other way round. With the ends lower than the middle.

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[RBW] FS: Paul Touring Cantis, VO brake set and thumbie mount, possible tires

[Zed Martinez]

Hey all, so, while I was digging through the parts storage for a few things 
this weekend for listers who had some WTBs I was able to help on, I found 
some other parts left over from my many years of experimenting with Clem 
builds. I'm quite happy with my final build now, so, time to see if these 
can find a happier home.

All prices shipped CONUS. Outside that I'd have to check rates and work 
with ya.


Paul Touring Cantilevers. 1 bike's worth, matte silver finish. One with the 
original Kool-Stop pads, gently used. The other with Jagwire pads, more 
used. No hangers or straddle cables. One post bushing is a little chewed on 
the outside but still functions smoothly and seals with O-ring. Cosmetic 
issue only, and only when installing since the brake hides it when 
installed. $90 for the pair.

VO Grand Cru Mk III cantilevers. The wide-stance frog leg ones. These have 
their hangers and the clever little barrel adjustors for the straddle 
cables. Not as strong as the Pauls, good in dry riding, very attractive in 
their CNC'ed way. $30 for pair.

VO thumbie adapters. They're nice. They work well with the original Silvers 
or the Dia-Compe generics of the same. Not as good with the Silver 2s, the 
cable exit angle is wrong. $40


And I have some 650b tires leftover from the 52 Clem. Make me a reasonable 
offer and we'll talk, I'm a little less sure how well my ability to get 
them out the door the next couple weeks will go but I can try.

2x Schwalbe Marathon Mondials, 2", folding bead. I forget how many miles I 
have on them. They're Mondials, they've still got a ways to go left in them.

2x Suomi A10 studded tires, 40mm. Pretty OK on ice, not so great in snow. 
>From Peter White, so, the studs are all set nice. used one winter only, 
lightly.

2x Continental Mountain King II 2.2". Pretty standard knobbies, only used 
off-road once, used as fall tires one winter besides. Knobs still look fine.


Pictures of anything available on request, I'll see if I can get some today 
or tomorrow to put up in a reply otherwise.

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Re: [RBW] Dyno light installation, which side of the do you prefer?

[Tom Palmer]

Hi Eric,
Would it matter what side of the road was ridden for a side rack mount? I 
am sure they folks you reference knew what they were doing, do not know 
what side of road the French drive. I know GB is left and another poster 
said the French and English builders agreed on the left. I personally want 
more light on the road shoulder so mount on right as far forward as I can. 
Tom Palmer
Twin Lake, MI, US

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 11:20:00 AM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> The great French constructeurs (Singer, Herse, etc.) mounted the light on 
> the left side of the small front rack or on the front fender. Never on the 
> righthand side. Trust the experts.
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> www.campyonly.com
> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
>
> On Apr 20, 2020, at 7:57 AM, ted > 
> wrote:
>
> When faced with this situation I’ve gone with mounting on the left side. 
> This lights up more pavement since one rides on the right side of the lane. 
> However mounting on the right would give shadow free illumination of the 
> road edge, so you might prefer that.
> This is why I’m so disappointed they stoped putting the plate with a 
> mounting whole on the front center of the marks and mini front racks. 
> Personally, I really really want my front light dead center. Not having the 
> tire centered in the beam drives me crazy.
>
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> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/725bdd34-806a-4b27-8b78-1ac1ee7f7ecc%40googlegroups.com
> .
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What have you learned during the isolation?

[ted]

Even pre covid I noticed that drivers accustomed to driving slower than they 
would like due to traffic seem to drive as possible. Absent traffic the foot 
goes to the floor.

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[RBW] Re: FS: 60cm Yves Gomez Complete Bike - $1200 plus shipping

[David B]

Sale for complete pending. 

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[RBW] Re: beautifying beausage: caring for worn paint

[Joe Bernard]

He could wrap it since the damage is already done, but personally I really 
dislike this trend on steel frames. I want to be able to see what's going on 
under there, and I worry that moisture gets trapped under all that fancy 
wrapping/shellacking/twining folks are doing to their Rivs. 

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[RBW] Re: First(ish) impressions of Sam Hillborne

[Ash]

John, congratulations!   Sam is indeed a great bike.  Your bike looks quite 
handsome.   Lovely color them there!  Wish you thousands of miles of happy 
riding.  

On Wednesday, 15 April 2020 07:16:39 UTC-7, John H. wrote:
>
> Following along on the Roadini thread...
>
> I just finished building up my Sam H. and could not be happier. I knew I 
> wanted a Rivendell, but I churned internally for years about which model 
> was going to the 'right' model for me. I was looking for something to ride 
> 70/30 road/trail, mostly unloaded and with big clearances. I had zero'd in 
> on a Sam early on but I couldn't stop thinking that it would be too 'stiff 
> and heavy' for its intended usage. My fears were completely unfounded and 
> -- to me at least -- the Sam feels just as "fast" as the Columbus SL tube'd 
> Basso frame it replaced. The only major departure (as far as ride quality 
> is concerned) is that the Sam is several orders of magnitude more 
> comfortable. 
>
> A *huge* (and long overdue) "thank you" goes out to Jason, Mike and co. at 
> Maine 
> Bike Works  for sourcing the frame and 
> working with my now wife to surprise me with it a few seasons ago. I can't 
> speak more highly of the work they do and urge anyone in the area to check 
> them out.
>
> Here's the high level build specs:
> 55cm Canti Sam Hillborne
> Campagnolo Veloce 10 Speed Ergos
> Crust Towel Rack bars
> Paul Neo Retro / Touring Canti
> 9 speed Shimano XT Shadow mech
> CX-50 front der.
> TA Zephyr crank (46/34)
> Velocity Quill rims / Generic Velocity Hubs
> Compass Snoqualmie Pass tires
>

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[RBW] Re: What have you learned during the isolation?

[somervillebikes]

One thing I've learned, living in an urban environment (Boston) that has 
very aggressively built bicycle and ped infrastructure over the years, and 
reduced vehicle speed by lowering speed limits (25 mph limit in Somerville, 
20mph limit in Cambridge), installing traffic calming devices, etc, is that 
with far fewer drivers on the roads, they're all DRIVING MUCH FASTER and 
more carelessly. So while the streets seems safer and quieter with reduced 
traffic, the traffic that there is is more dangerous. Seems 
counter-intuitive, but that's what I'm noticing as I bike around the city.

That's what I've learned.

Anton
velolumino.com

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[RBW] Re: First(ish) impressions of Sam Hillborne

[MaineBiker]

Hey Reid, awesome build! Do you know if the tire clearance is different 
between the cantilever model and center/side pull model? 

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 12:25:51 PM UTC-4, Reid Echols wrote:
>
> Loving my canti-Sam these days, in mega-monster-mode with 50mm Gravelking 
> tires. It's surprisingly fast on these, and very confidence-inspiring when 
> I have to dodge runners or other cyclists by hopping a curb or veering into 
> the rough stuff. 
>
> Reid in Austin 
>

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Re: [RBW] Dyno light installation, which side of the do you prefer?

[Scott G.]

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 11:20:00 AM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> The great French constructeurs (Singer, Herse, etc.) mounted the light on 
> the left side of the small front rack or on the front fender. Never on the 
> righthand side. Trust the experts.
>
> --Eric Norris
>
>
The Brits put the lamp boss on the right fork leg, one of the very few 
things the French & English 
ever agreed on, since that unfortunate business at Hastings.


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[RBW] Re: Dyno light installation, which side of the do you prefer?

[somervillebikes]

If you have a fender that's supported by a front rack, ,you can use the 
Velo Lumino fender mount for headlights, which will center the headlight. 
But having the fender supported behind the headlight is essential to 
prevent the beam from bouncing, and to prevent the fender from getting 
stressed.

Anton
velolumino.com


On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 10:57:10 AM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>
> When faced with this situation I’ve gone with mounting on the left side. 
> This lights up more pavement since one rides on the right side of the lane. 
> However mounting on the right would give shadow free illumination of the 
> road edge, so you might prefer that. 
> This is why I’m so disappointed they stoped putting the plate with a 
> mounting whole on the front center of the marks and mini front racks. 
> Personally, I really really want my front light dead center. Not having the 
> tire centered in the beam drives me crazy.

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[RBW] Re: Camping bikes

[Jason Fuller]

There is a huge wealth of information available on places like 
bikepacking.com - there are a lot of fancy setups, but one of the 
foundation principles of bike packing / touring is that ingenuity and 
creativity is a great replacement for money. Also "bikepacking" is 
typically considered to be on rougher terrain than "touring", hence most 
"bikepacking" bags are designed to be soft mounted. This is a much stronger 
solution than racks are for sustained vibration and shock loads. 

But for typical 1-3 night trips, a rear pannier rack with roomy panniers, a 
tent strapped to the top deck of the rack, and a bag of some kind lashed to 
your handlebars is perfect IMO.  

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[RBW] Re: FS: 60cm Yves Gomez Complete Bike - $1200 plus shipping

[David B]

Doing one final bump and lower for now.

$700 for frame/fork/headset.
$1100 complete.
Either option plus packing/shipping.

If you're interested in an option in between frameset and full complete, 
let's talk. Or if you're interested in parts from the build, let's talk as 
well.

If it doesn't move in a couple weeks I'm going to strip it down to a 
frameset, then might rebuild with some 700x42mm semi-knobbies and hit the 
dirt trails on it.
Or hit eBay with it, dunno. On a big garage cleaning goal, and clearing up 
and minimizing bikes seems to be one of the goals.

On Monday, April 6, 2020 at 9:57:44 AM UTC-5, David B wrote:
>
> Bump and lower. $750 frameset, $1150 complete plus packing/shipping or 
> local pickup in Chicago area (can meet for social distance handoff).
>
> On Saturday, March 21, 2020 at 12:13:19 PM UTC-5, David B wrote:
>>
>> Bumping this and offering as a frameset (frame/fork/headset). Complete is 
>> $1200, frameset is $800. Either option is plus shipping/packing - and 
>> shipping appears to be the primary option at this point.
>> Email for more photos.
>> If you inquire and decide not to purchase - no biggie, but kindly let me 
>> know.
>> Thanks,
>> David
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, March 5, 2020 at 9:50:41 PM UTC-6, David B wrote:
>>>
>>> Finally following through in a stable downsize and this is one that I 
>>> can't justify keeping anymore.
>>>
>>> Rivendell Yves Gomez
>>>
>>> This, I believe, is the from the last run before the Cheviot replaced 
>>> the Foy/Gomez. 
>>> 60cm, with a taller head tube than the previous 62cm model, so fits big 
>>> - easy to get handlebars up high and comfy.
>>> Frame/fork have scuffs from locking up and the decals are starting to 
>>> show wear. However, it's a beautiful sage with red filled in hearts.
>>> Built up as a 1x8-speed. Have a different crankset I could swap in - 
>>> though it'd need a front derailleur and shifter.
>>>
>>> Prefer to sell this as a complete right now, and would prefer a local 
>>> sale, though not completely opposed to shipping if it comes to that.
>>> Feel free to email for more specific specifics on components if you're 
>>> interested. Rebuilt a week ago or so with a new chain and cassette and new 
>>> cable housing and cables.
>>>
>>> $1200 - again local sale preferred. Any shipping/insurance/packing 
>>> expenses would be extra. 
>>> Poorly lit photos here: https://www.instagram.com/p/B9VZGiFlrbF/
>>> More photos coming this weekend.
>>>
>>> Build list.
>>> Wheels - Shimano Deore hubs (36/32) - rear rim is Velocity Dyad, front 
>>> is Alex DM18
>>> Panaracer Pasela Tires - 700x35mm - new
>>> 8-Speed Sunrace Cassette - new-ish
>>> Shimano Deore Rear Derailleur
>>> Shimano Dura Ace 7410 Crankset - 39t chainring
>>> Nylon Platform Pedals - placeholders but included to get you rolling
>>> Nitto Technomic Stem
>>> Nitto Albatross Bars
>>> Cork Grips - new, not permanently attached should you wish to swap
>>> Sunrace Friction Shifter - mounted Riv-inboard style
>>> Tektro Brake Levers - new
>>> Tektro Long Reach Brakes
>>> Generic 27.2mm seatpost
>>> Gyes Leather Saddle - similar shape to the discontinued Brooks B68 model
>>> SKS P50 LongBoard Fenders
>>> Fender Mounted Battery Rear Light
>>>
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: ISO / WTT / WTB: Lezyne Road Drive pump, short or medium

[Patrick Moore]

Steve: Thanks very much for the offer; it's very kind of you to make it.
But I'll hold out for, or very probably, just buy another, Road Drive or
similar pump with a hose -- I pump up tires often enough during rides that
the ease of the Road Drive makes it worth the expense.

Best, Patrick

On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 9:59 AM 'islaysteve' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Patrick, I have an SKS Supershort, *missing the chuck*, that's about
> 6.5"  Also have a cheap Giyo plastic mini, complete, about 9".  You can
> have them both for shipping cost, if you think you can find a chuck for the
> SKS.  I see that Riv now sells another SKS mini, but its out of stock.  You
> are welcome to these.  Let me know and I can take pix if you want.  I don't
> know if I ever used the SKS on the road, probably not.  Cheers, Steve
>
>
> On Friday, April 17, 2020 at 5:14:42 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> Arrgghh! I left my expensive Road Drive on the bike path just now. Before
>> I pay full retail, does anyone have one of the ~9" or one of the ~7" ones
>> to sell/trade?
>>
>> I know that some of you hate these pumps, so I hope that one of you such
>> will have one that you are very eager to sell on good terms.
>>
>> Can trade for an Impero -- fits 57 cm tt -- with Campy head ... And
>> probably have some other things.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> --
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> --
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> .
>


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Patrick Moore
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Re: [RBW] Re: Camping bikes

[Collin A]

I'm a big fan of the large voluminous bags that allow you to stuff all 
sorts of things into them, rather than strapping all sorts of bags 
everywhere; Think BagsxBird and Sackville saddle sacks. That being said, I 
find that having one or two accessory bags strapped to the handlebars help 
with organization that the large bags aren't so good at - tool bag, 
phone/camera bag, first aid - things you want easy access to and you don't 
have to go digging for.

Re: Bikepacking bags - I found that they are mostly designed to operate 
without racks, which tend to save a big chunk of weight, and the smaller 
bags encourage only bringing what you need. However, it is part of a *system 
*which means you will also need the super packable tent, sleeping bag, 
cookset, etc. to make it operate well ($$)

Personally, I like to run a hybrid system with a bagsxbird bag attached to 
the handlebars, a bedrock tapeats to hold my phone, camera, and wallet; 
half-framebag; sackville bagboy bag supported by a tumbleweed t-rack that I 
can attach mini-paniers (for longer trips) or extra bottle cages for more 
water if needed. The perk with this setup is it allows for easy removal of 
all bags to lighten the bike up for a day ride once you get to your 
destination and explore the park/reserve/forest you are staying at. An 
album that I occsionally update is here, if you are 
curious: https://photos.app.goo.gl/JU2uuwp957K5S5H79

Just daydreaming now,
Collin in Sac

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 8:38:26 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Aren't the bikepacker-type of bags meant to make riding easier in bush, 
> and also to save a wee bit of weight for those who like minimalist camping? 
> Just curious; I agree that, if these aren't the reasons, I can't see why 
> you'd forgo racks and panniers. Racks and panniers are certainly better for 
> errands and they are my preferred setup because they allow such flexibility 
> of volume 1 or a pair of either Sports Packers or Backrollers.
>
> Tubus racks were my choice until I started having customs made; the Fly -- 
> no longer made -- weighed 11 oz but was rated to 20 kg and several of them 
> served me well indeed.
>
> On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 8:11 AM Pat Smith > 
> wrote:
>
>> I'm a big fan of the traditional 2 pannier setup. All these special 
>> bikepacking bags seem more hassle than they are worth. 
>>
>> Get a decent rack, like a Blackburn Grid (or something nicer if you're 
>> feeling fancy) and a pair of Ortlieb backrollers and you're good to go for 
>> a night or two. The space on top of the rack between the two panniers is 
>> good for bungee cording a tarp/footprint or whatever else is weatherproof. 
>> What I found was getting the actual camping gear was more effort (bag, 
>> tent, pad, cookware, etc.). I do like a small handlebar or saddle bag for 
>> my cell/keys/wallet type of items. 
>>
>> Two panniers may be a bit overkill on a S24O in warm weather, but if 
>> you're only on your bike for a day or so the little extra weight and 
>> capacity won't kill you.
>>
>> On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 9:41:08 PM UTC-4, J L wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello all, 
>>>
>>> I would love to hear how folks have set up a bike for camping duty. Any 
>>> sage advice? I am looking forward to a time where I can ride out from the 
>>> house, do one or two overnights, and ride home. 
>>>
>>> Let’s say in this scenario I am doing more than putting stuff in a 
>>> backpack or bike basket and going. 
>>>
>>> Jason 
>>> SF, CA
>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com .
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/730d36f4-de7a-4b37-980a-aeb28bbced1c%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Camping bikes

[Curtis McKenzie]

James,

Needed to add good friends.  But not always.  A solo overnight is good for
the sole.

Curtis

On Mon, Apr 20, 2020, 9:01 AM James / Analog Cycles 
wrote:

> Should have added:  Low gears for exploring, wide tires for taking the
> road less traveled, fenders if it's gross out, good tool kit, good first
> aid kit.
>
> On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 12:00:19 PM UTC-4, James / Analog Cycles
> wrote:
>>
>> I find it's pretty easy (ok really easy) to overpack panniers.  I like a
>> Carradice camper sized saddle bag, 3 water bottles cages, one of which can
>> handle a 48oz nalgene if it's dry out or I won't be camping near a creek,
>> and a basket up front with a decent sized roll top bag.  Plenty of space
>> for luxury minimalist camping.  Not an oxymoron, if you pack well.
>>
>> -James / Analog Cycles
>>
>> On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 9:41:08 PM UTC-4, J L wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> I would love to hear how folks have set up a bike for camping duty. Any
>>> sage advice? I am looking forward to a time where I can ride out from the
>>> house, do one or two overnights, and ride home.
>>>
>>> Let’s say in this scenario I am doing more than putting stuff in a
>>> backpack or bike basket and going.
>>>
>>> Jason
>>> SF, CA
>>
>> --
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Camping bikes

[James / Analog Cycles]

Should have added:  Low gears for exploring, wide tires for taking the road 
less traveled, fenders if it's gross out, good tool kit, good first aid 
kit.  

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 12:00:19 PM UTC-4, James / Analog Cycles wrote:
>
> I find it's pretty easy (ok really easy) to overpack panniers.  I like a 
> Carradice camper sized saddle bag, 3 water bottles cages, one of which can 
> handle a 48oz nalgene if it's dry out or I won't be camping near a creek, 
> and a basket up front with a decent sized roll top bag.  Plenty of space 
> for luxury minimalist camping.  Not an oxymoron, if you pack well.  
>
> -James / Analog Cycles
>
> On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 9:41:08 PM UTC-4, J L wrote:
>>
>> Hello all, 
>>
>> I would love to hear how folks have set up a bike for camping duty. Any 
>> sage advice? I am looking forward to a time where I can ride out from the 
>> house, do one or two overnights, and ride home. 
>>
>> Let’s say in this scenario I am doing more than putting stuff in a 
>> backpack or bike basket and going. 
>>
>> Jason 
>> SF, CA
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Camping bikes

[Ginz]

For an over-nighter, I usually do two rear panniers and something in the 
front -- usually a basket or I strap a something to the bars.  

It's nice to have more capacity than you need because you don't have to be 
so fussy with packing.  Throw stuff in the bike and go!  If packing is too 
tedious for one night, I tend to feel exhausted before I even leave the 
house.  


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[RBW] Re: What have you learned during the isolation?

[Nathan Mattia]

I’ve been thinking about this for over a week, and finally collected my 
thoughts enough to write about it. ‘
It’s complicated, but here it is.

https://pipesbikesandleather.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=218=edit


On Friday, April 10, 2020 at 6:20:52 PM UTC-5, aeroperf wrote:
>
>
> It’s the first time I’ve started a thread, but I’d be interested to hear 
> about what you’ve learned that’s new to you.
>
> I live on a 93 mile bike trail that’s now closed.   The bike trail, being 
> rails-to-trails, had no corners (or real hills).  So for five years I’ve 
> been cranking away in relatively straight lines.
>
> Now that I’m riding 4 laps through a small neighborhood, I’m learning how 
> to take corners at speed without pedal strikes.
> My 2015 Sam had no problem.  My 2019 Homer taught me that you had to 
> either open up the corner a little or “outside foot down, inside foot up” 
> coast through it.  They have the same 170mm crank arms, so it is probably 
> both the bottom bracket drop and the smaller wheels - 650 vs 700 - that put 
> me lower.  And 15mph might not be “speed” for others, but it is interesting 
> in tight quarters for me.
>
> So what have you learned?  Riding Zwift is fun?  Riding solo is no fun?  
> Cleaning clothes is easier without chain grease?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Camping bikes

[James / Analog Cycles]

I find it's pretty easy (ok really easy) to overpack panniers.  I like a 
Carradice camper sized saddle bag, 3 water bottles cages, one of which can 
handle a 48oz nalgene if it's dry out or I won't be camping near a creek, 
and a basket up front with a decent sized roll top bag.  Plenty of space 
for luxury minimalist camping.  Not an oxymoron, if you pack well.  

-James / Analog Cycles

On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 9:41:08 PM UTC-4, J L wrote:
>
> Hello all, 
>
> I would love to hear how folks have set up a bike for camping duty. Any 
> sage advice? I am looking forward to a time where I can ride out from the 
> house, do one or two overnights, and ride home. 
>
> Let’s say in this scenario I am doing more than putting stuff in a 
> backpack or bike basket and going. 
>
> Jason 
> SF, CA

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[RBW] Re: ISO / WTT / WTB: Lezyne Road Drive pump, short or medium

['islaysteve' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Patrick, I have an SKS Supershort, *missing the chuck*, that's about 6.5"  
Also have a cheap Giyo plastic mini, complete, about 9".  You can have them 
both for shipping cost, if you think you can find a chuck for the SKS.  I 
see that Riv now sells another SKS mini, but its out of stock.  You are 
welcome to these.  Let me know and I can take pix if you want.  I don't 
know if I ever used the SKS on the road, probably not.  Cheers, Steve


On Friday, April 17, 2020 at 5:14:42 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Arrgghh! I left my expensive Road Drive on the bike path just now. Before 
> I pay full retail, does anyone have one of the ~9" or one of the ~7" ones 
> to sell/trade? 
>
> I know that some of you hate these pumps, so I hope that one of you such 
> will have one that you are very eager to sell on good terms.
>
> Can trade for an Impero -- fits 57 cm tt -- with Campy head ... And 
> probably have some other things.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Camping bikes

[Patrick Moore]

Aren't the bikepacker-type of bags meant to make riding easier in bush, and
also to save a wee bit of weight for those who like minimalist camping?
Just curious; I agree that, if these aren't the reasons, I can't see why
you'd forgo racks and panniers. Racks and panniers are certainly better for
errands and they are my preferred setup because they allow such flexibility
of volume 1 or a pair of either Sports Packers or Backrollers.

Tubus racks were my choice until I started having customs made; the Fly --
no longer made -- weighed 11 oz but was rated to 20 kg and several of them
served me well indeed.

On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 8:11 AM Pat Smith  wrote:

> I'm a big fan of the traditional 2 pannier setup. All these special
> bikepacking bags seem more hassle than they are worth.
>
> Get a decent rack, like a Blackburn Grid (or something nicer if you're
> feeling fancy) and a pair of Ortlieb backrollers and you're good to go for
> a night or two. The space on top of the rack between the two panniers is
> good for bungee cording a tarp/footprint or whatever else is weatherproof.
> What I found was getting the actual camping gear was more effort (bag,
> tent, pad, cookware, etc.). I do like a small handlebar or saddle bag for
> my cell/keys/wallet type of items.
>
> Two panniers may be a bit overkill on a S24O in warm weather, but if
> you're only on your bike for a day or so the little extra weight and
> capacity won't kill you.
>
> On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 9:41:08 PM UTC-4, J L wrote:
>>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I would love to hear how folks have set up a bike for camping duty. Any
>> sage advice? I am looking forward to a time where I can ride out from the
>> house, do one or two overnights, and ride home.
>>
>> Let’s say in this scenario I am doing more than putting stuff in a
>> backpack or bike basket and going.
>>
>> Jason
>> SF, CA
>
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> 
> .
>


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[RBW] Re: beautifying beausage: caring for worn paint

['islaysteve' via RBW Owners Bunch]

With regard to the right chainstay paint damage, why not wrap, twine and 
shellac it?  My Bleriot came to me from its previous owner that way.  This 
is purported to be yellow cloth handlebar tape with several coats of red 
shellac.  

On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 2:23:30 PM UTC-4, Matthew P wrote:
>
> While on the topic of paint, what does one do, other than just enjoy it, 
> when the bike's paint has "plenty of beausage"?
>
> I'm building an Atlantis whose paint has some wear.  The areas where the 
> chain ate the paint are really the problem, although perhaps my approach 
> helps protect those places.
>
> There are spots on this frame where it looks like you can see the 
> clearcoat separate from the paint underneath.  I'd just like for those 
> parts to blend a little better and give the paint an overall cleaner look, 
> just "smooth things out" if possible.  Not repaint.  Not even touch it up 
> (although I am interested in getting some Atlantis Russian submarine 
> interior green touch up paint, if the people in the know see this).
>
> I'm thinking I'll try waxing it, which would at least protect the paint & 
> metal some, if it doesn't make it look better.  
>
> I assume a rubbing compound would be too much, would strip away too much 
> clear coat and paint.
>
> Would a buffing compound be appropriate?
>
> I have little experience with paint care, clearly.
>
> Thanks.
> -Matthew
> San Diego
>

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Re: [RBW] Frame color!

[Patrick Moore]

I should know soon; Chauncey didn't seem too worried about actually getting
it, just said that they were currently out. But I've got "slightly
bluer-than-Herse blue" and industrial green as fallbacks (thanks, lists).

On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 8:29 AM Rob Kristoff  wrote:

> Patrick,
> When will they let you know if they can get the sage? Is it just a
> question of how long you're willing to wait? (Sorry if I missed this detail)
>
> RK
>
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>


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Re: [RBW] Dyno light installation, which side of the do you prefer?

['Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch]

The great French constructeurs (Singer, Herse, etc.) mounted the light on the 
left side of the small front rack or on the front fender. Never on the 
righthand side. Trust the experts.

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

> On Apr 20, 2020, at 7:57 AM, ted  wrote:
> 
> When faced with this situation I’ve gone with mounting on the left side. This 
> lights up more pavement since one rides on the right side of the lane. 
> However mounting on the right would give shadow free illumination of the road 
> edge, so you might prefer that.
> This is why I’m so disappointed they stoped putting the plate with a mounting 
> whole on the front center of the marks and mini front racks. Personally, I 
> really really want my front light dead center. Not having the tire centered 
> in the beam drives me crazy.
> 
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[RBW] ISO Velo Orange hinged thumbshifter clamp

[Patrick Moore]

Does anyone have a single one of these, or something similar, to sell? Note
again: something similar, with *HINGED CLAMP, *to fit this 3-speed trigger
shifter:

https://www.fruugo.us/sturmey-archer-3-speed-thumb-shifter-222mm/p-36710288-75295244?language=en=google=EAIaIQobChMIre3s49P16AIVePvjBx1pvQgJEAQYASABEgJMtfD_BwE

Alternately, does anyone want to buy one of a pair from me for $35 shipped?

https://velo-orange.com/collections/shifters/products/vo-thumb-shifter-mounts-22-2-23-8

VO
has them, but they sell only as a pair, and want $65 + $12 shipping, so I
thought I'd check the lists first.

Thanks.



Thanks.

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[RBW] Dyno light installation, which side of the do you prefer?

[ted]

When faced with this situation I’ve gone with mounting on the left side. This 
lights up more pavement since one rides on the right side of the lane. However 
mounting on the right would give shadow free illumination of the road edge, so 
you might prefer that.
This is why I’m so disappointed they stoped putting the plate with a mounting 
whole on the front center of the marks and mini front racks. Personally, I 
really really want my front light dead center. Not having the tire centered in 
the beam drives me crazy.

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Re: [RBW] Frame color!

[Rob Kristoff]

Patrick, 
When will they let you know if they can get the sage? Is it just a question of 
how long you're willing to wait? (Sorry if I missed this detail)

RK

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[RBW] Re: St. Joe's, MI to Chicago route

[marshmonster]

I ride from Chicago to New Buffalo at least once a year, this is roughly 
the route I take: https://goo.gl/maps/6bdPWJDeQEZogXrj7
Really nice trails that go around Gary. FYI not sure if they are all 
currently open, the lakefront trail in Chicago is closed and the City is in 
lockdown.
Not the best time for a visit IMO. I can post an old Apple Cider Century 
route if you want some noce quite roads to ride on.

- Fred

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[RBW] Dyno light installation, which side of the do you prefer?

[Jeffery S]

I'm installing a Son Edelux light to a Nitto M12 front rack running with a 
basket and can't decide if the light should be mounted on the left or right 
side of the wheel. The mounts are a little low, so there is going to be a 
shadow from the wheel/basket on either side. A front center mount would 
sort this issue out by itself, but there isn't one on this rack.

Most lights I've seen on the web are mounted on the left (towards oncoming 
traffic in the US). However, I've also read about some who prefer it on the 
right (curb side) to be better seen by drivers stopped at the right of an 
upcoming intersection. I've had a driver only glance left and turn into me 
like this (in daylight) so this kind of makes sense IMO.

Any experience/thoughts/preferences for this situation?
Thanks, Jeff

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[RBW] Re: FS: SOMA Fabrications San Marcos - 58cm

[Robb]

SOLD


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Re: [RBW] Re: 30 Days of Biking!

[ANDREW ALLEN ERMAN]

Great story.  Thanks for the lift!

On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 7:54:50 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> Day 19. 
>
> Like many of you, I am married to someone who does not share my wild 
> enthusiasm for bikes. Two years ago my husband bought an e-bike as a 
> compromise: it is like a motorcycle but less dangerous, and this way the 
> rest of the family can join. You would think the ebike would buy me more 
> miles and longer rides, but no, JP’s only good for a few miles and then 
> he’s had enough. 
>
> Tonight, he smoked the best brisket you can possibly ever imagine. I made 
> honey cornbread muffins and roasted asparagus and a potato and chive dish 
> and we ate like it was our JOB. I was feeling repentant and had decided to 
> go for a nice long ride (as if that would make up for it) after the kitchen 
> was put back in order. JP looked up at me from his chair and said, “Are you 
> hitting the old dusty trail?” (This is my announcement every time I leave 
> for a ride.) 
>
> “Yes, I’m heading out,” I said. 
>
> He looked at me imploringly. 
>
> Now, I had plans. I have a favorite 11 mile loop I love to take that 
> incorporates several miles of MUP black top with wild desert on one side, 
> and lovely homes backing up on the other. I call it my Top Secret Trail. 
> The yards are strung with outdoor garden party lights and fairy lights and 
> come nightfall, it’s a beautiful sight. For that ride, I will put on Apple 
> Music and when the sun goes down I sail. I will think all my thoughts, sing 
> all the songs and I will come home when I darn well please. I will be 
> refreshed and rejuvenated. 
>
> “Oh, did you want to come?” I asked. 
>
> He got up and started looking for all his stuff and my heart sunk a 
> little. This ride would now be a COMPROMISE. The ride would be much 
> shorter, the route would be changed, and here’s the worst of it - he would 
> get to choose the music. I put on a happy face. 
>
> So, we set off. Now, my husband believes that he has to have music on his 
> bike. He pictures us on an ocean boardwalk, but here we are in the 
> mountains of a desert. Since riding your bike on the boardwalk by the ocean 
> always involves music, he got himself a speaker...that he shoves in his 
> bottle cage and operates via his iPhone. I have long given up arguing 
> against the speaker. I have also given up hope of ever controlling the 
> music. 
>
> As we rolled down the mountain I was keenly aware that he had left his 
> panniers wide open and they were flapping in the wind. Little aqua zippered 
> pockets emerged from the gray panniers and flapped like flags. He had 
> chosen an obnoxiously twangy country music channel. The man is a suit, 
> there is nothing country about him, but the twangier the songs were, the 
> more he seemed to relate. 
>
> He let me lead us to my Top Secret Trail. I was starting to relax and 
> believe that maybe I really was going to get my way about our route, but 
> only 3 miles into our ride he asked, “If we turn here, where does it take 
> us?” 
>
> “Probably back towards home,” I said, heart sinking. “Do you want to take 
> it?” 
>
> He did. I chose not to protest because I’d like him to think biking is fun 
> and we had a great time. Also, he made a killer brisket today. Big points, 
> people. 
>
> The entire way home is uphill, and with him on an ebike we are poorly 
> matched. But I really want him to have a good time and not to be bored, so 
> I try extra hard to keep us at a quick pace on Killer Hill. I am not 
> kidding when I say I was feeling the burn. My hamstrings. My core. Like, 
> what do you have to do on your bike rides to make your CORE hurt? I was 
> sweating and gasping and he was in the lead, blithely enjoying the weather 
> and crumby music. The whole route only took us 6.2 miles, round trip. 
>
> We’re back at home now. He’s in the living room under a quilt and I’m in 
> shorts and tank top - still sweating. I think he had a good time. 
>
> I know I could make my case for more miles and my choice of music, but in 
> the end I’ll lay those down in trade for biking together. 
>
> But you mark my words - tomorrow I’m doing my twilight ride and I’ll do it 
> all my way. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Jim-the-moderator's email address?

[Cyclofiend Jim]

Hey there Patrick - 

For list stuff, cyclofi...@gmail.com should work.

You can always "email the moderator" via the group menu as well.

- J
 

On Saturday, April 18, 2020 at 6:56:05 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I just sent Jim a message, but it bounced; the address I have is 
> apparently out of date. Does anyone have the correct email address for him?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Patrick Moore
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: MUSA Shorts, large, old style

[Jim S.]

all shorts sold.

>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Swift Bags

[Jim S.]

All Swift bags sold.

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[RBW] Re: Camping bikes

[Pat Smith]

I'm a big fan of the traditional 2 pannier setup. All these special 
bikepacking bags seem more hassle than they are worth. 

Get a decent rack, like a Blackburn Grid (or something nicer if you're 
feeling fancy) and a pair of Ortlieb backrollers and you're good to go for 
a night or two. The space on top of the rack between the two panniers is 
good for bungee cording a tarp/footprint or whatever else is weatherproof. 
What I found was getting the actual camping gear was more effort (bag, 
tent, pad, cookware, etc.). I do like a small handlebar or saddle bag for 
my cell/keys/wallet type of items. 

Two panniers may be a bit overkill on a S24O in warm weather, but if you're 
only on your bike for a day or so the little extra weight and capacity 
won't kill you.

On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 9:41:08 PM UTC-4, J L wrote:
>
> Hello all, 
>
> I would love to hear how folks have set up a bike for camping duty. Any 
> sage advice? I am looking forward to a time where I can ride out from the 
> house, do one or two overnights, and ride home. 
>
> Let’s say in this scenario I am doing more than putting stuff in a 
> backpack or bike basket and going. 
>
> Jason 
> SF, CA

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Re: [RBW] Frame color!

[somervillebikes]

I don't know...

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 8:37:55 AM UTC-4, Tom Norton wrote:
>
> Anton,
> I like that color!!
> I am getting ready to paint the frame,fork and rack that I built. So my 
> question is can a base coat color be matched to a powder coat color?
> Thanks!
> Tom
> Chardon,Ohio

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[RBW] Re: Cherry Blossoms Season!

[Takashi]

David, that looks like a gorgeous place, and your Appaloosa looks cool, too!

Bob, you have cherry tree in your yard? It must be sweet to enjoy cherry 
blossoms whenever you like. Blue sky and cherry blossoms make really nice 
contrast.

Jim, I can't see your picture on my screen. Maybe a wrong link?

Takashi

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[RBW] Re: WTB/WTT: Billie Bar

[Reid Echols]

I’ve got a little-used Billie bar I’d sell for something like $70 plus shipping 
from Austin, TX. Or possibly trade for other interesting bike-related things. 


Reid in ATX

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[RBW] Re: Ghost shifting on the Clem

[Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY]

I think it's more of a bucket than a roll, but yes. Rivendell cuts them to 
length, no more than one master link needed (not that two is bad)
-Kai

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[RBW] Re: St. Joe's, MI to Chicago route

[Kevin M]

There's a rail trail detour that'll add a few miles around Gary if you 
don't want to go that way, but it's fine. I've ridden through Gary a few 
times and it's really nothing to worry about. Just take the most direct 
route through there and you'll be fine. 

Lakeshore and Red Arrow Hwy are probably your best options and it should be 
quiet for auto traffic for the time being! Be aware that the lake front 
path and the bike path by Wolf Lake in Chicago are currently closed to 
bikes. 

Kevin
In Madison, WI
But formerly of Chicago and NWI


On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 1:57:19 PM UTC-5, Jim S. wrote:
>
> I rode part of this route, Evanston to Michigan City, en route to South 
> Bend, way back in 1991! I can't believe it's been that long.
>
> (I had a black and orange Cannondale mountain bike - I could have 
> purchased a Bridgestone and I have no idea why I didn't. I thought 
> Cannondales were so cool when I was 20.)
>
> Were I to undertake this ride today, I'd just use the google map route for 
> bicycle. I just reviewed the suggested route. It's not awful. And there's 
> some nice parts, like the ride through Indiana Dunes.
>
> The most direct route would be through Gary, which I think is probably 
> undesirable. I still remember my ride through Gary - I had no maps. I went 
> through Gary because I was navigating by following the lake. There were 
> four ferocious junkyard dogs that came barreling at me from various 
> directions as I made my way through town. For those terrifying moments, I 
> became a very strong rider.
>
>
> On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 10:17:42 AM UTC-5, Tom Palmer wrote:
>>
>> I second the request. I have been planning a ride around Lake Michigan in 
>> the fall and this has been the largest concern. Crazy Guy on Bike has 
>> several stories about it but nothing obvious to me for the southern end of 
>> the lake,
>>
>> Tom Palmer
>> Twin Lake, MI
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Frame color!

[Tom Norton]

Anton,
I like that color!!
I am getting ready to paint the frame,fork and rack that I built. So my 
question is can a base coat color be matched to a powder coat color?
Thanks!
Tom
Chardon,Ohio

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[RBW] Tonite, 4/20 at 8pm EST, Handlebar Wrap Clinic

[James / Analog Cycles]

Monday 4/20, at 8pm:  Candice will be holding a clinic on wrapping bar tape 
the Analog way.  The clinic will be on Instagram live, and you can type 
questions real time for her to answer.  Check out the image below for an 
example of Candice's work: a stumpjumper she taped up yesterday.  
On Wedneday, Analog will be hosting a drivetrain cleaning and lubing 
clinic, same time same place.  Most folks over or under do it on drivetrain 
cleaning, but really, it can be super simple and effective with just a few 
basic steps.  Hint... No degreaser!  

All the clinics are free.

Tune in at instagram.com/analogcycles

[image: 94400051_1072645723106673_7946021893708972032_o.jpg]
-James / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Discord Components / Fifth 
Season Canvas

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[RBW] Re: Ghost shifting on the Clem

[Mark Roland]

I wasn't saying that you messed with it. Perhaps I wasn't clear enough. I 
believe a "stock" Clem chain still needs to be lengthened by adding 
additional links, even at Riv headquarters. Which would mean that is the 
possible cause of your stiff link. 

(Do they really make rolls of bicycle chain? I was just kidding about that. 
Unlike, say, brake cable housing, never heard of chain coming in rolls.)

On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 11:03:02 PM UTC-4, Wayne Naha wrote:
>
> Yeah, but this is the stock chain from Riv, so other than the frozen link, 
> I haven't messed with it
>
> On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 10:21:01 PM UTC-4, Mark Roland wrote:
>>
>> Clem Smith Jr.'s require a chain plus extra. So unless the chain came 
>> from a spool of chain and was made exactly to length, it would have 
>> required pinning on an additional section, and then using a master link. As 
>> Patrick does, whenever I put back a rivet I check to make sure it protrudes 
>> the same amount as the nearby rivets, then bend it a few times to make sure 
>> it moves freely.
>>
>

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