Re: [RBW] Salt Lake City Cycling Question

[Jay Fichialos]

Goat heads are not a major issue in Salt Lake in my experience riding along
the Wasatch front. Welcome to Utah! Fun riding, lots of climbing
opportunities :)

Jay in Pleasant Grove

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 7:43 AM Brady Smith  wrote:

> Looks like the family and I are relocating to Salt Lake City. Question for
> fellow Utah listers: How big of a problem are goat heads? I was on the
> verge of ordering a new dynamo wheel a few months ago but held off in case
> going fully tubeless winds up making more sense. In New Jersey, where we
> have glass but not thorns, I've been running Rene Herse tires in 700x44
> with tubes and had no flat issues. I gather that this setup is not going to
> serve me especially well out west. Do I put sealant in my tubes? Go fully
> tubeless? Or would something like the Soma Shikoro be enough as long as I'm
> riding mostly road/gravel?
>
> Best,
>
> Brady in NJ/soon to be Utah
>
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> .
>

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[RBW] question re Brooks leather bar tape

[Jim S.]

So I splurged and bought this fancy, pricey bar tape. I'm embarrassed to 
admit what I paid for it, but now I've got it. Does anyone have any 
experience with it? That is, do I install it the same way I install 
Newbaum's, or is there some special method for this stuff? 

Thanks in advance for any thoughts. 

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[RBW] question re Brooks leather bar ape

[Jim S.]

So I splurged and bought this fancy, pricey bar tape. I'm embarrassed to 
admit what I paid for it, but now I've got it. Does anyone have any 
experience with it? That is, do I install it the same way I install 
Newbaum's, or is there some special method for this stuff? I just don't 
want to screw it up as I don't see myself every buying another set of it. 
I've got to get it right the first time.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts. 

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[RBW] WTB: 7cm tallux or technomic (26.0)

[Eric G@rs]

Title says it all. Let me know!

Eric G
Menlo Park

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Re: [RBW] Re: Let's see your shop and workbench

[Bill Schairer]

Ha, thanks, Eric, but I inherited the color scheme from my wife.  I really 
don’t have an eye for that sort of thing.

Bill S
On Saturday, March 6, 2021 at 12:29:32 PM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Pretty rad, Bill! I like those yellow walls and the white plywood. Not 
> enough paint goes up in most shops. 
>
> On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 12:12:09 PM UTC-5 Bill Schairer wrote:
>
>> My wife's woodshop was in the garage but she moved it to commercial space 
>> so I converted the space to my bike shop.
>>
>> Bill S
>> San Diego
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: Nitto S83 Seatpost

[David Person]

Sold.

On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 5:03:22 PM UTC-8 David Person wrote:

> Yeah, Riv switched most of their bikes over to 26.8 from 27.2 a couple 
> years ago.  Really limited the seatpost options.
>
> On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 4:58:01 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
>> I just checked, I need the 26.8 dia. Argh! 
>>
>> Thank you, though!
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mar 5, 2021, at 4:04 PM, David Person  wrote:
>>
>> Southern Cal.
>>
>>
>> On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 3:55:15 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:
>>
>>> Where are you located?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mar 5, 2021, at 3:54 PM, David Person  wrote:
>>>
>>> 27.2mm, 300mm length.  Nice condition but does have a couple marks from 
>>> being installed on the bike.  Front view picture shows the marks about 3" 
>>> above the Min Insert line.  
>>>
>>> $75 shipped (Conus)
>>>
>>> 
>>>
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Convert to Tubeless?

[velomann]

My experience is limited but so far (knock on wood) positive.
Based on that, and understanding others feel differently (sometimes 
strongly) here's my recommendation.

Don't use Stans tubeless tape. It's too stiff, hard to apply just right, 
and too thick.
Don't use Gorilla tape for the reasons mentioned.
Buy some of the economical and highly effective tubeless tape Analog cycles 
sells. I don't know what it was originally, but the stuff works great. Use 
two layers because.
https://analogcycles.com/product/analog-tubeless-tape/

I bought a Topek Tubibooster because a compressor was overkill for me, I 
didn't want to have to depend on borrowing one from whoever, and I have a 
friend who has been very successful with multiple tubeless set-ups using 
this: https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-TubiBooster-One-Color-Size/dp/B084Z468P6

That said, I haven't had to use it. I've so far been able to set up 
tubeless with just a regular Joe Blow floor pump. I credit that to using 
good tubeless rims (HED Belgium, Velocity Dually) and good tubeless 
compatible tires (WTB Byway, WTB Trail Boss), the Analog tape, good 
tubeless valves, and liberal soapy water on the beat before pumping 
vigorously. So far has worked like a charm.

We'll see if my luck continues. This week I'll be setting up some Terravail 
Sparwood tires on WTB KOM i23 light rims. My next wheelset build will be 
Velocity A23 rims with Panaracer Gravelking SK tires. Fingers crossed.

More tubeless info from Analog 
Cycles: 
https://analogcycles.com/true-facts-components/analogs-tubeless-set-up-guide/

Learning new bike skills is a good thing. 

Do It & Good Luck!

Mike M

On Thursday, March 4, 2021 at 8:46:57 PM UTC-8 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

> Okey dokey folks - I'm thinking I'd like to convert my Clem Smith (650b) 
> to tubeless. Reason being that my neighborhood and favorite route to the 
> trails is pretty much old school industrial and I'm constantly fighting 
> punctures from debris. Since the Alex rims look to support a tubeless set 
> up it seems like I'll need the following;
>
>- tubeless compatible tires
>- rim tape (Gorilla)
>- tubeless valve stems
>- tire sealant
>
> I have done the same conversion on a dirt motorcycle so familiar with the 
> concept and install procedures but...
>
> What am I missing? Any caveats? Am I mad to attempt this? Plus any other 
> advice would be most welcome.
>

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[RBW] Re: Convert to Tubeless?

[André P]

Aside from what others have stated the only other piece of advice is when 
installing the valve stem push really hard from the tire inside side while 
you tighten down the whatever it's called, grommet? nut? spinny thing? I 
had trouble getting it to seal around the valve stems on my stans 
valve/cliffhanger rim combo but that did the trick.
On Saturday, March 6, 2021 at 6:29:15 AM UTC-8 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks all lots of good info here, makes sense to use the "real" tape as 
> the cost is not very high. As to the fitting; I've done this many times 
> with dirt motorcycle tires so have an idea of what I'm facing!
>
>
>
> On Saturday, March 6, 2021 at 5:52:16 AM UTC-8 eddietheflay wrote:
>
>>
>> yes forgot soapy water and it can also help to warm up new tires in the 
>> sun for a while. when i received my Gravel King Slicks in the mail the 
>> vendor had squished them down to their smallest size for mailing by folding 
>> them tightly to fit in the envelope. the folding did not wreck the beads 
>> but put a definite kink in the bead that was harder to straighten out when 
>> installing on the rim. the kink made it extra hard to get the air to stay 
>> in. in the end i first installed a tube, inflated to high pressure, seated 
>> bead on both sides, deflated, took the tube out of one side, left the other 
>> bead seated, and proceeded, with soapy water, and co2 to get the other side 
>> to seat. oh what fun.
>> On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 8:52:08 PM UTC-8 Jim M. wrote:
>>
>>> Tubeless tape isn't very expensive. As mentioned I'd use it over 
>>> Gorilla. And inflation can be difficult with a standard pump. I have a 
>>> small compressor, and I also have a Topeak Joeblow Booster, which allows 
>>> you to pump a chamber to high psi and let it out in one blast to seat 
>>> tubeless tires. Works well in my experience. 
>>>
>>> Soap water on the bead helps seat. Also, the tires will probably leak 
>>> sealant out the sidewall until they are sealed, so you'll see little white 
>>> specks. You may need to use a couple of extra shots of sealant the first 
>>> time.
>>>
>>> jim m
>>> tubeless in walnut creek
>>>
>>> On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 7:45:30 PM UTC-8 eddietheflay wrote:
>>>
 i would say make yourself ready for asking yourself why you decided to 
 go tubeless :). the learning curve in my garage was hours long. get ready 
 for tight tires (Conti 5000) that are impossible to get on rim. or get 
 ready for loose tires (GravelKing Slicks) that are impossibly loose and 
 challenging to set the beads. tight tires make it easier to set the beads. 
 loose tires are a pain in the butt to set the beads. regardless you might 
 be successful with a standard floor pump but there's a high likelihood 
 you'll need CO2 or compressor or an a cannister like an Airshot. the tough 
 ones need a strong and quick blast of air. without the blast get ready for 
 anger.

 On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 5:21:14 PM UTC-8 David Person wrote:

> I will say that if you use Gorilla tape, it is a bitch to clean up the 
> rim when you remove it.  Lots of residue left on the rim that will need 
> to 
> be stripped off with acetone.  Analog sells tubeless tape at a very 
> reasonable price.  One roll will do at least a dozen wheels.
>
> https://analogcycles.com/product/analog-tubeless-tape/
>
>
> On Thursday, March 4, 2021 at 11:01:37 PM UTC-8 Nick Payne wrote:
>
>> I'd say so-called tubeless-compatible tyres aren't necessary unless 
>> you need to buy new tyres. For several years now I've been running 
>> Hutchinson Confrérie des 650B tyres tubeless on one bike (Velocity A23 
>> rims) and Grand Bois Lierre tubeless on another (MCFK i25 hookless 
>> rims), 
>> and although neither model of tyre is rated as tubeless, I've had zero 
>> problems.
>>
>> Nick
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Bike day- Red Mixte but not a Raspberry Platypus.

[Linda G]

Thanks for checking it out Tom. That sounds like more weight than I tried 
to carry with better results. 
Linda

On Saturday, March 6, 2021 at 10:37:36 AM UTC-8 Tom Palmer wrote:

> Hi Linda,
> Test completed. First with just 24lbs in rear in panniers. not bad, front 
> end really lightened up steering wise, which is expected. Some flex, but 
> not too much. Second test 34lbs rear and 10 lbs in front basket. Noticeably 
> more flexy, but not annoying, nor brake rub on an the few tight turns or 
> climbing small hill. The steering was much heavier, as expected again. I do 
> not have low riders on her yet, but usually I keep the rack weight very low 
> and heavy stuff in front panniers. I hope to get low riders in near future 
> to try. 
> I hope your search is fruitful,
> Tom
>
> On Thursday, March 4, 2021 at 8:17:57 PM UTC-5 Linda G wrote:
>
>> Does this bike feel flexy with a load in front and back, set fairly high 
>> on your racks? I ask because I have a Velo Orange mixte, size 54, which has 
>> a similar design and rack configuration. The flex bothers me. It's kind of 
>> an unstable feeling side to side. It's also enough to make the rear brake 
>> rub on a rough road. I'm looking for an alternative and the Platypus is too 
>> long and big-tired for me. I like the fact that the Soma can run 650 b's.
>> Linda
>>
>> On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 6:18:25 AM UTC-8 Tom Palmer wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>> This is a cross post for IBob, with correction, now with Riv content.
>>> I built this Soma Buena Vista up over the winter and finally rode it. 
>>> Probably the best first ride on a new bike ever, maybe I am finally 
>>> understanding how to fit my own bikes. undoubtedly, things will change, but 
>>> its pretty close right now. The build is pretty Bobish- 650b with 38mm Pari 
>>> motos (red Hetres on the way as change #1) Shimano Deore rear hub Shimano 
>>> dyno front on velocity Dyad rims. Tektro r559 brakes that stop very well. 
>>> Riv Nitto Choco norm bars on long generic stem. SKS longboard fenders at 
>>> least for now. Front basket and rear rack for commuting if that is ever a 
>>> thing in the future. Drivtrain is 10 speed microshift shifters and Shimano 
>>> SLX deraillers. and  a vintage Shimano 600 crankset with Willow triplizer 
>>> 46/30 chainrings. Rides great- tweaked the bars a few times after about 5 
>>> miles into the ride. Hit  a couple steep hills and climbs well in the bends 
>>> of the Chocos. The interweb info on this for tire fit is way conservative. 
>>> I had 650bx48 Pari motos on at first and they fit fine, probably fenders 
>>> too. The handling is typical high trail drop road bike even with the swept 
>>> back bars. This is a little surprising. I was afraid it would be too light 
>>> but the longer chainstays may play into it- 450mm. Geometry is pretty road 
>>> bike too- 73 degree parallel with 45mm rake. This is the biggest frame they 
>>> still make-58cm. They did have a 62 in the past. The color is tremendous- 
>>> even better than anything on the web. Russo Red is what they call it and it 
>>> really pops. Real paint, not powder coat.
>>>
>>> Doing a tour of lakes Huron, Superior, and Michigan in the fall, and 
>>> this may be the ride.
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] In search of brass ferrules

[Eric Marth]

Can someone tell me where I can find 4mm brass ferrules in stock? I have a 
bottle of 5mm ferrules from Wheels Mfg, can't find anyone stocking the 4mm. 

Thanks! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Let's see your shop and workbench

[Eric Marth]

Pretty rad, Bill! I like those yellow walls and the white plywood. Not 
enough paint goes up in most shops. 

On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 12:12:09 PM UTC-5 Bill Schairer wrote:

> My wife's woodshop was in the garage but she moved it to commercial space 
> so I converted the space to my bike shop.
>
> Bill S
> San Diego
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem H Seatpost Bolt Size?

[Joe Bernard]

Oh, you just need to know which wrench to use. Yep, 5mm Hex/Allen wrench. 


On Saturday, March 6, 2021 at 11:09:50 AM UTC-8 Marty Gierke, Stewartstown 
PA wrote:

> BTW - I don't have the bike yet,  but need to let my son know how to 
> loosen/remove the post so he can ship it to me. 
>
> On Saturday, March 6, 2021 at 2:08:18 PM UTC-5 Marty Gierke, Stewartstown 
> PA wrote:
>
>> Standard 5mm, or something else? I seem to recall a discussion around 
>> them using an inch standard bolt, but I could be wrong. 
>>
>> Thanks. 
>>
>> Marty
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem H Seatpost Bolt Size?

[Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA]

BTW - I don't have the bike yet,  but need to let my son know how to 
loosen/remove the post so he can ship it to me. 

On Saturday, March 6, 2021 at 2:08:18 PM UTC-5 Marty Gierke, Stewartstown 
PA wrote:

> Standard 5mm, or something else? I seem to recall a discussion around them 
> using an inch standard bolt, but I could be wrong. 
>
> Thanks. 
>
> Marty
>

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[RBW] Clem H Seatpost Bolt Size?

[Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA]

Standard 5mm, or something else? I seem to recall a discussion around them 
using an inch standard bolt, but I could be wrong. 

Thanks. 

Marty

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[RBW] Re: New Bike day- Red Mixte but not a Raspberry Platypus.

[Tom Palmer]

Hi Leah, 
I am JEALOUS that you can ride year round. I attempt to but the cold and 
ice stop me eventually. 
Tom

On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 9:45:30 AM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> Well, if it can’t be a red Platy, this is the next best thing! Riding the 
> Great Lakes? JEALOUS OVER HERE.
>
> Mixtes in shades of red are the new cool kids in town.
> Leah
>
> On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 5:52:53 AM UTC-8 Marc Irwin wrote:
>
>> No, Tom I didn't name this one.  I had a little too much fun building the 
>> first one.
>>
>> Marc
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 5:58:35 PM UTC-5 Tom Palmer wrote:
>>
>>> Looks very racy, Marc! 
>>> i also read everything you wrote about Byron during my search. 
>>> Does this one have a name?
>>> Tom
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 10:27:24 AM UTC-5 Marc Irwin wrote:
>>>

 Nice looking build, I got one last year and built it very light for 
 brisk city riding and commuting.  I love it.  The red is real, damn red.   

 Marc[image: 20200104_150722.jpg]
 On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 9:18:25 AM UTC-5 Tom Palmer wrote:

> Hi all,
> This is a cross post for IBob, with correction, now with Riv content.
> I built this Soma Buena Vista up over the winter and finally rode it. 
> Probably the best first ride on a new bike ever, maybe I am finally 
> understanding how to fit my own bikes. undoubtedly, things will change, 
> but 
> its pretty close right now. The build is pretty Bobish- 650b with 38mm 
> Pari 
> motos (red Hetres on the way as change #1) Shimano Deore rear hub Shimano 
> dyno front on velocity Dyad rims. Tektro r559 brakes that stop very well. 
> Riv Nitto Choco norm bars on long generic stem. SKS longboard fenders at 
> least for now. Front basket and rear rack for commuting if that is ever a 
> thing in the future. Drivtrain is 10 speed microshift shifters and 
> Shimano 
> SLX deraillers. and  a vintage Shimano 600 crankset with Willow triplizer 
> 46/30 chainrings. Rides great- tweaked the bars a few times after about 5 
> miles into the ride. Hit  a couple steep hills and climbs well in the 
> bends 
> of the Chocos. The interweb info on this for tire fit is way 
> conservative. 
> I had 650bx48 Pari motos on at first and they fit fine, probably fenders 
> too. The handling is typical high trail drop road bike even with the 
> swept 
> back bars. This is a little surprising. I was afraid it would be too 
> light 
> but the longer chainstays may play into it- 450mm. Geometry is pretty 
> road 
> bike too- 73 degree parallel with 45mm rake. This is the biggest frame 
> they 
> still make-58cm. They did have a 62 in the past. The color is tremendous- 
> even better than anything on the web. Russo Red is what they call it and 
> it 
> really pops. Real paint, not powder coat.
>
> Doing a tour of lakes Huron, Superior, and Michigan in the fall, and 
> this may be the ride.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New Bike day- Red Mixte but not a Raspberry Platypus.

[Tom Palmer]

Hi Linda,
Test completed. First with just 24lbs in rear in panniers. not bad, front 
end really lightened up steering wise, which is expected. Some flex, but 
not too much. Second test 34lbs rear and 10 lbs in front basket. Noticeably 
more flexy, but not annoying, nor brake rub on an the few tight turns or 
climbing small hill. The steering was much heavier, as expected again. I do 
not have low riders on her yet, but usually I keep the rack weight very low 
and heavy stuff in front panniers. I hope to get low riders in near future 
to try. 
I hope your search is fruitful,
Tom

On Thursday, March 4, 2021 at 8:17:57 PM UTC-5 Linda G wrote:

> Does this bike feel flexy with a load in front and back, set fairly high 
> on your racks? I ask because I have a Velo Orange mixte, size 54, which has 
> a similar design and rack configuration. The flex bothers me. It's kind of 
> an unstable feeling side to side. It's also enough to make the rear brake 
> rub on a rough road. I'm looking for an alternative and the Platypus is too 
> long and big-tired for me. I like the fact that the Soma can run 650 b's.
> Linda
>
> On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 6:18:25 AM UTC-8 Tom Palmer wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>> This is a cross post for IBob, with correction, now with Riv content.
>> I built this Soma Buena Vista up over the winter and finally rode it. 
>> Probably the best first ride on a new bike ever, maybe I am finally 
>> understanding how to fit my own bikes. undoubtedly, things will change, but 
>> its pretty close right now. The build is pretty Bobish- 650b with 38mm Pari 
>> motos (red Hetres on the way as change #1) Shimano Deore rear hub Shimano 
>> dyno front on velocity Dyad rims. Tektro r559 brakes that stop very well. 
>> Riv Nitto Choco norm bars on long generic stem. SKS longboard fenders at 
>> least for now. Front basket and rear rack for commuting if that is ever a 
>> thing in the future. Drivtrain is 10 speed microshift shifters and Shimano 
>> SLX deraillers. and  a vintage Shimano 600 crankset with Willow triplizer 
>> 46/30 chainrings. Rides great- tweaked the bars a few times after about 5 
>> miles into the ride. Hit  a couple steep hills and climbs well in the bends 
>> of the Chocos. The interweb info on this for tire fit is way conservative. 
>> I had 650bx48 Pari motos on at first and they fit fine, probably fenders 
>> too. The handling is typical high trail drop road bike even with the swept 
>> back bars. This is a little surprising. I was afraid it would be too light 
>> but the longer chainstays may play into it- 450mm. Geometry is pretty road 
>> bike too- 73 degree parallel with 45mm rake. This is the biggest frame they 
>> still make-58cm. They did have a 62 in the past. The color is tremendous- 
>> even better than anything on the web. Russo Red is what they call it and it 
>> really pops. Real paint, not powder coat.
>>
>> Doing a tour of lakes Huron, Superior, and Michigan in the fall, and this 
>> may be the ride.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS 56 MUSA Atlantis 650b Great Condition.

[Jonathan D.]

Bump.

I am happy to ship. Please let me know if you have any questions.  I am 
flexible on price as well if. you want to discuss options.

On Thursday, March 4, 2021 at 1:00:42 PM UTC-8 Jonathan D. wrote:

> I am in Portland Oregon.  Thank you Sean!
>
> On Thursday, March 4, 2021 at 10:55:48 AM UTC-8 Sean McDermott wrote:
>
>> Hey Jonathan,
>> What a wonderful bike! Where are you located, just in case a local pickup 
>> is possible?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Sean
>> On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 10:04:06 PM UTC-5 Jonathan D. wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Doug. You are right it needs more information.  I can't find the 
>>> MUSA Geometry chart but I am confident someone has it.  I think it is 
>>> similar to the Toyo Atlantis but with longer chain stays - I want to say 
>>> 47-48 mm for Waterford, versus 52 range for the new MIT version, and 45 for 
>>> the Toyo.
>>>
>>> Here is an old listing that the previous bike mechanic posted I traded 
>>> for it. I traded a 58 Atlantis that Doug connected me with and I bought 
>>> from the list. I rode it maybe 200 miles since I traded for it, mostly 
>>> because of Covid and very little bike commuting. 
>>>
>>> It has Nitto Noodle bars, Shimano brakes, bar ends but not Shimano 
>>> (can't tell name), Origin Seatpost but probably have a Nitto and can look, 
>>> Brooks C17 but could trade it for a leather B17, Cx-70 Canti Brakes, Sugino 
>>> Crank triple, 9 speed cassette, Deore Rear derailleur, and Pasela 42 mm 
>>> tires. The Wheels are Velocity Atlas wheels, Atlas rims with Velocity Hubs. 
>>> Everything looks in great shape.  I found one small paint chip on the top 
>>> tube and will add a picture when the sun is shining.  
>>>
>>> https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2629426/
>>>
>>> I would love to sell to someone local.  These bikes are hard to price. 
>>>  I'll drop to $2250 plus shipping. Happy to talk build and price.  I don't 
>>> want to part out, because of the hassle of selling each part.  I have 
>>> enough parts.
>>>
>>> I am not in a rush to sell and if I don't sell this one, I might try 
>>> selling a 55 Joe Appaloosa or Some Grand Randeneur. 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 3:22:12 PM UTC-8 dougP wrote:
>>>
 Not in the market (I already have a 58 cm Atlantis) but a couple of 
 questions come to mind that potential buyers may ask.  Cassette? (range & 
 how many speeds?) Chainring sizes?  Brakes? Hubs? Tires?  The Atlantis has 
 evolved a lot over the last few years, so listing the chainstay length may 
 be helpful.  

 Best of luck in finding it a new home.  An Atlantis needs to be 
 ridden.  

 dougP

 On Monday, March 1, 2021 at 10:27:58 AM UTC-8 Jonathan D. wrote:

> I decided I have too many bikes and need to sell at least one.  This 
> is a really nice, great condition, typical Rivendell build.  This is a 
> MUSA 
> Atlantis, 650 B, size 56.  My PBH is 85.5 and I fit.  It might be a 
> little 
> small.  I was planning on keep the racks, but happy to consider 
> including.  
>
> These bikes are hard to know what they are worth.  I am not in a rush 
> to sell but wanted to put it out there.  I am asking for $2500 plus 
> shipping. I will have it professionally packaged.  I am happy to answer 
> questions.
>
> https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0ZGf693ZgcrSx
>


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Re: [RBW] Re: Talk Me Out of Building My Own Wheels

[Den John]

If you don't want to cough up for a book, I found the Barnett Manual 
section on wheel building excellent. The system for spoke lacing is really 
clear and
systematic. I've probably built 10 or so sets of wheels, and with the BM I 
never got into trouble with lacing up. You should be able to find a pdf of 
an old edition
of the BM online.

I have a cheapish truing stand and dish stick that have lasted me nearly 10 
years. A worthwhile investment IMO. You can bodge along with homemade tools 
but
I found as a beginner that it's less frustrating with the proper tools. 

Johnny in Belgium

On Friday, 5 March 2021 at 19:07:09 UTC+1 Mike Godwin wrote:

> Yep, build your own. I'm somewhere north of 100 wheel builds (not pairs), 
> for friends and family, and self. I've used Brandt's method and over time 
> picked up a truing stand, tension meter (both Park), and dishing tool 
> (Minoura). My first wheels were done using the bike for a truing stand, and 
> like others here, changing rims and just tensioning pre-built wheels. It is 
> relaxing, a way to catch up on long neglected albums or CDs, and its 
> rewarding to ride the wheels you built for thousands of miles.
>
> Mike SLO CA 
>
> On Thursday, March 4, 2021 at 3:50:35 PM UTC-8 RichS wrote:
>
>> It is indeed Jim Langley. Agree with Garth on how well the information is 
>> presented.
>>
>> Best,
>> Rich in ATL
>> (Building a set of wheels right now)
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Mar 4, 2021, at 11:50 AM, Pancake  wrote:
>>
>> Is this the video you were referring to? 
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUqul03hbZ8
>> Jim Langley (not Land)?
>>
>> On Monday, 19 October 2020 at 10:48:25 UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>  You'll be alright Steven. The difference to me between wheels built 
>>> by me and wheels built by a dedicated professional is theirs are within 
>>> tighter tolerances and they don't ever need touched, at least mine haven't 
>>> and I have a 20 year old pair from Joe Young. They also do it much quicker 
>>> of course. 
>>>
>>>Jim Land on youtube has the best video of building/truing wheels I've 
>>> seen, his way is presentation is very easy going and more intuitive than 
>>> all the books that I once read, and hated. 
>>>
>>> "Just one more book Alice ... and POW .. right in the kisser !" 
>>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] FS: New Mark's rack M-1, plus Wald med. basket

[Ray Evans]

SOLD, thanks!

On Fri, Mar 5, 2021 at 2:00 PM Ray  wrote:

> I never got around to using these, they are good as new. Mark's Rack Nitto
> M-1 (uncut struts), Wald medium basket, silver, and Captain Hook basket
> net, blue. How is $120 plus shipping for the lot? I'm in Santa Barbara if
> you are passing through any time soon. Thanks.
>
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> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Salt Lake City Cycling Question

[Brady Smith]

Looks like the family and I are relocating to Salt Lake City. Question for 
fellow Utah listers: How big of a problem are goat heads? I was on the 
verge of ordering a new dynamo wheel a few months ago but held off in case 
going fully tubeless winds up making more sense. In New Jersey, where we 
have glass but not thorns, I've been running Rene Herse tires in 700x44 
with tubes and had no flat issues. I gather that this setup is not going to 
serve me especially well out west. Do I put sealant in my tubes? Go fully 
tubeless? Or would something like the Soma Shikoro be enough as long as I'm 
riding mostly road/gravel?

Best,

Brady in NJ/soon to be Utah

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[RBW] Re: Convert to Tubeless?

[Philip Barrett]

Thanks all lots of good info here, makes sense to use the "real" tape as 
the cost is not very high. As to the fitting; I've done this many times 
with dirt motorcycle tires so have an idea of what I'm facing!



On Saturday, March 6, 2021 at 5:52:16 AM UTC-8 eddietheflay wrote:

>
> yes forgot soapy water and it can also help to warm up new tires in the 
> sun for a while. when i received my Gravel King Slicks in the mail the 
> vendor had squished them down to their smallest size for mailing by folding 
> them tightly to fit in the envelope. the folding did not wreck the beads 
> but put a definite kink in the bead that was harder to straighten out when 
> installing on the rim. the kink made it extra hard to get the air to stay 
> in. in the end i first installed a tube, inflated to high pressure, seated 
> bead on both sides, deflated, took the tube out of one side, left the other 
> bead seated, and proceeded, with soapy water, and co2 to get the other side 
> to seat. oh what fun.
> On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 8:52:08 PM UTC-8 Jim M. wrote:
>
>> Tubeless tape isn't very expensive. As mentioned I'd use it over Gorilla. 
>> And inflation can be difficult with a standard pump. I have a small 
>> compressor, and I also have a Topeak Joeblow Booster, which allows you to 
>> pump a chamber to high psi and let it out in one blast to seat tubeless 
>> tires. Works well in my experience. 
>>
>> Soap water on the bead helps seat. Also, the tires will probably leak 
>> sealant out the sidewall until they are sealed, so you'll see little white 
>> specks. You may need to use a couple of extra shots of sealant the first 
>> time.
>>
>> jim m
>> tubeless in walnut creek
>>
>> On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 7:45:30 PM UTC-8 eddietheflay wrote:
>>
>>> i would say make yourself ready for asking yourself why you decided to 
>>> go tubeless :). the learning curve in my garage was hours long. get ready 
>>> for tight tires (Conti 5000) that are impossible to get on rim. or get 
>>> ready for loose tires (GravelKing Slicks) that are impossibly loose and 
>>> challenging to set the beads. tight tires make it easier to set the beads. 
>>> loose tires are a pain in the butt to set the beads. regardless you might 
>>> be successful with a standard floor pump but there's a high likelihood 
>>> you'll need CO2 or compressor or an a cannister like an Airshot. the tough 
>>> ones need a strong and quick blast of air. without the blast get ready for 
>>> anger.
>>>
>>> On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 5:21:14 PM UTC-8 David Person wrote:
>>>
 I will say that if you use Gorilla tape, it is a bitch to clean up the 
 rim when you remove it.  Lots of residue left on the rim that will need to 
 be stripped off with acetone.  Analog sells tubeless tape at a very 
 reasonable price.  One roll will do at least a dozen wheels.

 https://analogcycles.com/product/analog-tubeless-tape/


 On Thursday, March 4, 2021 at 11:01:37 PM UTC-8 Nick Payne wrote:

> I'd say so-called tubeless-compatible tyres aren't necessary unless 
> you need to buy new tyres. For several years now I've been running 
> Hutchinson Confrérie des 650B tyres tubeless on one bike (Velocity A23 
> rims) and Grand Bois Lierre tubeless on another (MCFK i25 hookless rims), 
> and although neither model of tyre is rated as tubeless, I've had zero 
> problems.
>
> Nick
>


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[RBW] Re: Convert to Tubeless?

[eddietheflay]

yes forgot soapy water and it can also help to warm up new tires in the sun 
for a while. when i received my Gravel King Slicks in the mail the vendor 
had squished them down to their smallest size for mailing by folding them 
tightly to fit in the envelope. the folding did not wreck the beads but put 
a definite kink in the bead that was harder to straighten out when 
installing on the rim. the kink made it extra hard to get the air to stay 
in. in the end i first installed a tube, inflated to high pressure, seated 
bead on both sides, deflated, took the tube out of one side, left the other 
bead seated, and proceeded, with soapy water, and co2 to get the other side 
to seat. oh what fun.
On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 8:52:08 PM UTC-8 Jim M. wrote:

> Tubeless tape isn't very expensive. As mentioned I'd use it over Gorilla. 
> And inflation can be difficult with a standard pump. I have a small 
> compressor, and I also have a Topeak Joeblow Booster, which allows you to 
> pump a chamber to high psi and let it out in one blast to seat tubeless 
> tires. Works well in my experience. 
>
> Soap water on the bead helps seat. Also, the tires will probably leak 
> sealant out the sidewall until they are sealed, so you'll see little white 
> specks. You may need to use a couple of extra shots of sealant the first 
> time.
>
> jim m
> tubeless in walnut creek
>
> On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 7:45:30 PM UTC-8 eddietheflay wrote:
>
>> i would say make yourself ready for asking yourself why you decided to go 
>> tubeless :). the learning curve in my garage was hours long. get ready for 
>> tight tires (Conti 5000) that are impossible to get on rim. or get ready 
>> for loose tires (GravelKing Slicks) that are impossibly loose and 
>> challenging to set the beads. tight tires make it easier to set the beads. 
>> loose tires are a pain in the butt to set the beads. regardless you might 
>> be successful with a standard floor pump but there's a high likelihood 
>> you'll need CO2 or compressor or an a cannister like an Airshot. the tough 
>> ones need a strong and quick blast of air. without the blast get ready for 
>> anger.
>>
>> On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 5:21:14 PM UTC-8 David Person wrote:
>>
>>> I will say that if you use Gorilla tape, it is a bitch to clean up the 
>>> rim when you remove it.  Lots of residue left on the rim that will need to 
>>> be stripped off with acetone.  Analog sells tubeless tape at a very 
>>> reasonable price.  One roll will do at least a dozen wheels.
>>>
>>> https://analogcycles.com/product/analog-tubeless-tape/
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, March 4, 2021 at 11:01:37 PM UTC-8 Nick Payne wrote:
>>>
 I'd say so-called tubeless-compatible tyres aren't necessary unless you 
 need to buy new tyres. For several years now I've been running Hutchinson 
 Confrérie des 650B tyres tubeless on one bike (Velocity A23 rims) and 
 Grand 
 Bois Lierre tubeless on another (MCFK i25 hookless rims), and although 
 neither model of tyre is rated as tubeless, I've had zero problems.

 Nick

>>>

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