[RBW] Re: Surly Cross Check sizing question

[Jon Cameron]

Hi Gino,

I own and ride a 55cm Romulus, and a 55cm Bleriot and they fit and
ride beautifully for my five foot six inch body with an 80cm PBH.  I
also own and ride a 52cm Surly cross check, and it too fits and rides
very well. The various strengths and weaknesses of the products from
both companies have been well discussed in this group over the years,
so I'll not fan those flames. The data point I'm offering you supports
your premise that Surly's are best sized by top tube length. ( and
Rivendell's remain best sized by PBH )  Hope this helps, Jon Cameron.

On Jun 30, 2:11 pm, Gino Zahnd  wrote:
> For those of you who ride a Rivendell, and also ride a Surly Cross Check or
> Travelers Check, what are the sizing differences?
>
> It looks like top tube is going to be the best bet on sizing a Surly, but if
> you know of any amazing secrets, please let me in!
>
> I'm currently trying to decide whether or not to couple one of my Rivs for
> all the travel I do, or to just build up a Surly Travelers Check.
>
> Thanks,
> Gino
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[RBW] Re: Bleriot build--bottom bracket and front derailer

[Jon Cameron]

I own a Bleriot that I purchased in 2006. It is set up with a full
Campy Centaur Group including a compact crank with custom 46/34
chainrings, It works great with the stock size Campy bottom bracket
( I think 111mm, but any good Campy dealer will know what size it
needs ) I could understand perhaps wanting to substitue some other BB
if the Campy were expensive, but it is around $60, so I just used it.
Similarly, I also just use the Campy "compact" front derailer with it
too, another item that is not very expecsive as long as you stay away
from Record or Chorus in the Campy line.  Likewise, it works great. I
understand you plan on using a non-Campy rear end, and I can see no
reason why this would not work very well with the Campy crank/BB/front
der. Good luck with getting your new bike set up, and I hope that you
enjoy your's as much as I enjoy mine. Happy riding, Jon.

On May 13, 12:19 am, cm  wrote:
> I am in the process of getting all the bits together to build my
> Bleriot. I have a Campy Mirage 50/34 compact crankset that I am
> planning on using. Has anyone out there used this or a similiar
> crankset? Or, does any one know what size bottom bracket would work
> and/or what front derailer would be best. I am planing on using a 9
> speed 12-34 cassette in the rear with an 9 speed LX rear derailer and
> Silver bar-end shifters. Any help is greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Cheers!
> cm
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[RBW] Re: Toe in or not toe in

[Jon Cameron]

Hi Andrew,

I have a number of different makes and models of cantilever brakes on
different bikes. Some expensive and fancy and beautiful. Other's
really low cost and industrial looking. My experience is that the
cheaper they are, the easier it is to set them up and simply use them
without squeeling, squeeking or fussing. If I'm remembering correctly,
the Tektro Oryx gets mentioned often on this list as being prone to
squeeling. ( as such, it's one that I have no first hand experience
with ) For my taste, the really in-expensive Tektro canti's on the peg
wall at most LBS's work great with their included, also cheap pads,
never squeel, or need any fussing over short of removing small bits of
detritus that imbed themselves in the pads of any brake. And even
then, they don't squeel, just threaten to grind through the rims due
to the foreign matter. At around twenty bucks a pair, they are not
beautiful, but they simply work. If you can accept the appearance on
your QuickBeam, give 'em a try. Jon Cameron.

On Apr 23, 8:31 am, Andrew Janjigian  wrote:
> RBWers -
> I've had an issue with my Quickbeam for ages now where the front brakes
> squeal at high rpms (Tektro Oryx/Kool Stop pads). I have replaced the pads a
> few times, and toed them in, and no matter what, the squeal returns after a
> brief respite. The KoolStops recommend installing the pads square to the
> rim, so I did that this last time, but even so the dreaded squeal came back.
> Even when I do toe them in, it only goes away for a short while.
>
> Any one have any tips? I can only guess at two possibilities: that the post
> adjustment slips over time, or that the pads wear.
>
> The odd thing is for the first year or so with these brakes, I had no
> trouble with them at all.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Andrew
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[RBW] Re: New York Times Fashion Pieces on Dutch Bicycles

[Jon Cameron]

Hi All,

Yup...nothing three speed about that bike. A
closer look reveals stem mounted shifters, and a pair of them at that.
Also note, no bar mounted trigger shifter like Sturmey equipped three
speeds would have. And yetagreed, and interesting article. Jon.

On Apr 17, 3:21 pm, Horace  wrote:
> On Fri, Apr 17, 2009 at 12:11 AM, aaronweis  wrote:
> > 
> > Fashion show with absurdly expensive outfits, and an equally absurdly
> > priced vintage Raleigh 3 speed at $275!
>
> >http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2009/04/15/fashion/20090416-codes-sl...
>
> Doesn't look like a 3-speed to me, either.
>
> Thanks for the links, though -- interesting read.
>
> Horace.
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[RBW] Re: Grand Bois Tires on My Romulus

[Jon Cameron]

Hi Bruce,

Glad to hear that they can be flat free under the right circumstances.
I sure like the way they ride. Thanx too for the tip on Pasela's. I
use them too on other bikes for the same cost issues you mentioned. A
great value.
Jon.

On Apr 11, 3:33 pm, Bruce  wrote:
> Jon:
>
>  I passed 1,000 flat free miles on my set of Cypres this morning. Love 'em. 
> Too pricey to be on all my bikes, but great none the less.  I have Paselas 
> elsewhere, and you should consider them as an alternate.
>
> The Rom is a great bike.
>
> Tailwinds!
>
> --- On Sat, 4/11/09, Jon Cameron  wrote:
> From: Jon Cameron 
> Subject: [RBW] Grand Bois Tires on My Romulus
> To: "RBW Owners Bunch" 
> Date: Saturday, April 11, 2009, 3:17 PM
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I purchased my Romulus new in May of 2003. 
> I have always really liked riding my Romulus, but always harbored a
> lingering feeling that the ride seemed to feel a bit "dead." . so I took 
> the plunge and purchased a pair of
> Grand Bois Cypres tires for the bike (700Cx30mm)Well, I have to tell
> you, these tires have transformed the ride
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[RBW] Grand Bois Tires on My Romulus

[Jon Cameron]

Hi Everyone,

I purchased my Romulus new in May of 2003. For those who don't recall
(or never needed to know) the bike came new with wire bead Ruffy Tuffy
tires on it. I had been using a set of Kevlar bead Rolly Poly's on
another bike and liked them, so the Ruffy's seemed like a perfect
choice and have been on my Romulus from day one. Until this morning.

I have always really liked riding my Romulus, but always harbored a
lingering feeling that the ride seemed to feel a bit "dead."  Those
Ruffy Tuffy tires wear like the name implies, and to this day the
tread is still pretty good ( a bit squared off on the rear, but O.K.)
but I figured that six years later, the rubber in them must be getting
pretty hard and dry, so I took the plunge and purchased a pair of
Grand Bois Cypres tires for the bike (700Cx30mm)Well, I have to tell
you, these tires have transformed the ride . That slight wooden
feeling is all gone. The bike feels lively and energetic.

I have read from many other members of this list that Grand Bois tires
can be prone to flats, and I have no reason to doubt these
experiences. I live and ride in southern Wisconsin where we are lucky
enough to have pretty good and clean roads. No goat head thorns to be
found. I have the luxury of other bikes to ride for commuting
purposes, so the Romulus is mostly used for fun, go-fast ( or as fast
as I can, which is pretty darn slow, but you get the idea) rides. For
those of you who share the luxury of clean roads who are looking for a
good, light, fast, and cushy, comfy tire, try the Brand Bois Cypres. I
like them.

PS: I have no affiliation to Grand Bois, or VBP in any way. I'm just
another Riv-Nut who wants to share my experiences. YMMV.

Jon in Wisconsin.
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[RBW] Re: Suntor?

[Jon Cameron]

Hi George,

I still use quite a bit of old Suntour stuff. While the name has been
resurrected of late, the stuff that you are asking about is sometimes
referred to today by using the parent company's name ie: Maeda Corp.
All pretty nice gear, but they did not survive the equipment change to
integrated shifting and braking, and the re-alignment of the Yen did
not help either. For more detail you might try www.yellowjersey.org.
This sight is certainly unique to navigate, but it also contains a
mountain of information ( including much about Suntour/Maeda ). Jon in
Madison, WI.

On Mar 26, 6:54 am, George Strickler  wrote:
> I was searching in old bike stuff last night to find a small thing and
> came across a Suntor Cyclone GT derailleur.  Whatever happened to
> Suntor?  It seems to have disappeared in one of those periods when I
> wasn't paying attention.
> G
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[RBW] Re: Nigel Smythe Tweed Handlebar Bag

[Jon Cameron]

Hi Michael,

Are you looking for a "bar tube" or a "hobo" ? Green tweed or blue ??
Not to seem picky, but all of the above have been made over the years,
and may effect the responses that you get. Jon Cameron.

On Mar 3, 2:35 pm, michaeltburn  wrote:
> Hello World!
>
> I confessed in a letter to John Bennett at Rivendell that my
> acquisition of taste did not coincide with the availability of Nigel
> Smythe Tweed Handlebar bags.  As this group knows, aesthetics are as
> important to bicycles as to food or a selecting a spouse.
>
> With all that mentioned, does anyone have a lead on obtaining a Tweed
> handlebar bag?  Desparation brings with it top dollar.  Any leads are
> appreciated.  Please reply to my post or directly
> michaelb...@comcast.net.
>
> Many thanks and maybe you too may share my lament on the money spent
> to rectify youthful indiscretion and poor judgement.
>
> My highest regards,
> Michael
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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam ?

[Jon Cameron]

Hi All,

I own both a Surly Cross Check (currently set up with derailer, but
that might change) and a Soma Delancey. Both of these particular
models come with long slots at the rear to allow for many gearing
options. The Cross Check is quite versatile and inexpensive, so the
value seems very good. It's a nice frame and I like it. I purchased my
Delancey about eighteen months ago when Quick Beams were " asleep" in
Rivendell parlance. The Delancey is really very nice, and while it has
those looongg fork ends to allow for gearing options, it is really a
road bike in terms of clearance for big tires and fenders. I run mine
with 28mm Grand Bois tires and no room for fenders. Now that there are
silver Quick Beams either in stock or arriving soon, I'd be buying one
of those but for these financial hard times. ( I simply can't afford
it right now )

All of these frames have strengths and weaknesses to them, but I feel
that Jim is spot on when he talks about how his Quick Beam rides. ( or
really any Rivendell bicycle [ I have a Bleriot and a Romulus too])

As to the original question, I'd strongly say " go ahead a buy
yourself a Quickbeam, you'll like it on so many levels."

Jon Cameron.

On Feb 27, 10:33 pm, David Estes  wrote:
> On Fri, Feb 27, 2009 at 7:42 PM, CycloFiend wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > on 2/27/09 1:54 PM, Patrick in VT at psh...@drm.com commented:
>
> > > On Feb 27, 2:18 pm, Esteban  wrote:
> > >>  I think the QB is the prototypical touring singlespeed.
>
> > > maybe, but there are other options, which are actually more versatile.
> > > the cross-check, casserole and old lugged steel road bikes come to
> > > mind - these can all be very comfortable, fit fat tires and fenders,
> > > accept racks and be converted back to geared rides if one had the
> > > notion.
>
> > > no doubt the QB is wonderful - it's a smart, sweet looking bike.  I
> > > just don't think it's the be-all-end-all of singlespeeding with so
> > > many good options out there.
>
> > I have to say I've ridden a couple of Surlys over the years, and although I
> > think they are a good value, it's hard to make a case that they have the
> > same ride.
>
> > You absolutely can make a comfortable bike out of those, and thank goodness
> > for the braze-on's on both models.  If you think you might want to rig it
> > with geary/shifty bits down the road, there are not a lot of options
> > available which have horizontal dropouts and will let you run it both
> > modes.
>
> > But, as I've said before I think Grant is onto something with the
> > combination of rider position and frame angles that just feels comfortable
> > and right for me. I had other singlespeeds mountain and road bikes and
> > fixed
> > gear rigs of various ilk before.  The Quickbeam really replaced them all.
>
> > So, for me, it kinda is the be-all-end-all in that realm.
>
> > - Jim
>
> > -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
>
> And Jim, I think in addition to that, the lng track ends give you an
> exceptional degree of gearing choices that a converted road bike doesn't.
> You just don't have the range that the QB gives you.  Don't know about the
> Surly or Soma bikes mentioned above, YMMV
>
> --
> Cheers,
> David
> Redlands, CA- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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[RBW] Re: shortening rack struts

[Jon Cameron]

Hi Mike,

The rack struts on a Mark's rack are made from solid aluminium. The
cutting tool shown in your link is intended for tubular stock, and
mostly copper at that. A hack saw will work much more effectively to
cut the length. From there, if you're anywhere near as anal as I am,
you can file the end of the cut to a nicely rounded cap and gently
sand and then polish for a very professional looking strut. In fact,
it will look like a factory finish with just a few minutes work and is
well worth the effort on my opinion. The hack saw and file will remain
useful tools for you after this job is finished. Jon.

On Jan 3, 9:47 am, Mike  wrote:
> I'll soon be putting my Mark's rack on my AHH and will need to shorten
> the rack struts for a better fit. I know a hacksaw will work but I'm
> wondering what folks think of this tool. Would it work well? Seems
> like it could be more precise given that I don't have a vice. Hell, I
> don't have a hacksaw.
>
> http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=27772
>
> Thanks,
> mike
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[RBW] Re: Polishing off the logos

[Jon Cameron]

Hi,

Some of the idea's mentioned might be overthinking the situation. I
have quite a few assorted, relatively new Shimano parts on assorted
bikes. Lately, Shimano seems to be putting their name on every single
part. Overkill to say the least. I did some reading on the issue of
logo removal, and it all seemed so involved. After taking a very close
look at the parts under very good light, it appeared to me that the
logo's had been silk screened on as the last part of the process. In
fact, the silk screening appeared to be done over the clear coat on
the actual metal. So, I made a pedal my first test case, and simply
took a utility/razor knife and scraped it sideways across the logo.
VERY gently. Don't panic ! The idea here is to just barely scrape off
the logo without going through the clear coat which is underneath it.
You do not have to scrape off every micron of logo paint because the
next step is equally gentle use of four o fine steel wool. Once you
get the feel for it, you'll be amazed at how easy it is to do. And how
much prettier the parts are without the silly logo's everywhere. If
the logo screening on your Shimano parts is anything like mine have
been, you'll have no trouble. I have now removed over a dozen Shimano
logo's in just minutes without any troubles. Give it a try. Jon
Cameron.

On Dec 13, 9:19 am, Wally  wrote:
> I've got a new wild hair - I've been thinking of polishing off the
> logos on my derailleur and brake levers. They say "Shimano 105" or
> just "Shimano", and I was thinking that a plain silver look would
> compliment my Rambouillet a bit better.
>
> I know, you can't see the logos from more than a few feet away, but
> winter is here, and why not?
>
> Does anyone have any experience in doing this? Does it work? What
> polishing compound and/or tools did you successfully use?
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[RBW] Re: Richard Sachs Cross Bike

[Jon Cameron]

Hello to all,

Patrickwell spoken.

To add to that sentimentit is my
understanding from reading about Richard Sachs that when he builds his
cyclo cross racing bikes for team members, that some thought goes in
to how to make it take a bit less time to build these machines for
their intended purpose of CX racing. While it might seem a pretty
simple thing to add on a few assorted bosses for bottle cages and
fenders and racks, it does all add up in time spent. To give all due
credit, the man had dedicated his life to frame building and before he
"closed" his waiting list for frames, he would and has built many
frames with just these kinds of extra's for broader focused bikes. The
frames mentioned in the article are built specifically for the cyclo
cross racing team that he sponsers, so leaving off these features
makes complete sense to me, and after building up two frames for each
team member, probably saves Richard a considerable amount of time. The
man is an artist in steel and a legend in frame building and I smile
each and every time I see one of his frames on the road.

As for my own bike riding..I'm perfectly
well served by our good friends at Rivendell. I own two of their bikes
now, and am making plans for another. Bottles, fenders, bags and all.
Enjoy the ride, Jon.

On Dec 10, 3:16 pm, Patrick in VT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >How could making something more useful for
> > general riding (with little or no impact on its performance in
> > competition) imply that it is a wall-hanger or casual rider?
> >But the notion a practical bike is lessor for its practicality is one that 
> >is lost on
> >me.
>
> hmm . .. I didn't read it that way.  maybe it could have been stated
> more eloquently, but the point was that Mr. Sachs builds his signature
> 'cross bike with one intent - to race cx.
>
> water bottles and fenders have no place in cx, and to have these
> features would imply that the bike can be, or might be used for other
> purposes.  The omission of these features speaks to Mr. Sachs passion
> and dedication to cx.
>
> serious cx racing is not about being practical or versatile - it's
> about riding as hard as you possibly can for 45-60mins without
> throwing up or having to think about what a pain it's going to be to
> remount my honjos.  adding fenders and bottle cages *would* make it a
> more casual rider kind of bike - so what?
>
> this doesn't make other practically designed bikes "lessor."  Did
> someone actually say that?  Kind of like comparing apples and oranges,
> isn't it?
>
> in any event, let's not get too defensive about our practically
> designed bicycles.  there's nothing wrong with having a bike that does
> only one thing and does it really well and saying that it's better for
> it's given purpose than other bikes designed with versatility in mind.
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