[RBW] Re: More Sam Love--and do you ride your Riv through winter?

[Matt B.]

Anti-seize compound works well on bolt heads and nuts to keep corrosion away
. 

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[RBW] Re: More Sam Love--and do you ride your Riv through winter?

[Matt B.]

Here's my rivendell getting me to work last winter.  It fits large studded 
tires.





On Monday, July 20, 2015 at 9:08:36 PM UTC-4, murphyjrfk wrote:
>
> I didn't want to hijack a thread so I figured I would start another.
>
> I bought one of the last Sage Sams. Hot damn I'm glad I did.  I've ridden 
> lots of bikes and have access to lots of cool bikes but man this one is 
> special.  Of all the Riv's I've ridden and I've seen this is just by far my 
> favorite.  It's so perfectly--well I don't know--neutral.  I have ridden it 
> every day and lots o miles in the past month. Only bike I have ridden. 
>  It's a super typical nothing special build.  Velocity Synergy (which I 
> hate-anything better?) Deore LX hubs rear der blah blah.  The 9 speed 
> Microshift Thumbies are the best and I really like the Surly Knard tires as 
> jack of all trade type. Actually I really love them they are nothing 
> special but good at lots o things and not crazy expensive.  
>
> But alas--do you ride it through the winter?  Not California winters. More 
> like nasty rust belt Cleveland winters with salt and brine and crap 
> everywhere and tons o snow.  I normally just ride a different beater every 
> winter and junk it--but man I don't want to stop riding the Sam.  I ride a 
> lot in the winter too so I'm usually thinking about it. I really don't care 
> about scratches paint chips bits o rust--can always repaint it I guess. 
>  Just curious how you handle the really bad stuff--but not give up that 
> Magic Riv Ride.
>
> Attached is a picture.  I stink and pictures and computer stuff so I hope 
> it shows up.  
>

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[RBW] Re: Toyo Frame

[Matt B.]

On Friday, July 3, 2015 at 10:07:21 PM UTC-4, Wayne Naha wrote:
>
> I thought it was really interesting because it used two types of joining: 
> the lug and the fillet braze.  I have never seen that before.
>
>

it is sometimes called partial bi-laminate construction

 

> On Friday, July 3, 2015 at 7:21:23 PM UTC-4, Liesl wrote:
>>
>> Gosh that's beautiful!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: O.T. Cyclo Camping in the Adirondack Park Loop

[Matt B.]

I did some cyclo-camping in Adirondack park, it's pretty awesome.It is 
true the campgrounds are mostly parking lots for RVs.   Luckily you'll see 
lots of trails from the road through the woods that offer up some good 
camping spots that are off map.You'll see these trail heads frequently 
enough that you don't need to plan where you'll stay for the night. 
TLDR I recommend just winging it, camping randomly lightly and leaving no 
trash of course.



On Monday, June 29, 2015 at 12:21:19 PM UTC-4, jandrews_nyc wrote:
>
> Hello 
> Does anyone here have experience with biking the 393 mi Adirondack Park 
> Loop and camping along the way?
> I have the a.c.a map and am looking for info from others who have ridden 
> the park and could shed some light on good places to camp.  I don't see a 
> lot of great camping information online except that which is geared towards 
> RV camping.  I will be riding this loop the 2nd week of August on a S.H.
> thank you
> Jason
>

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[RBW] Re: loaded handling question

[Matt B.]

On Monday, June 1, 2015 at 8:57:12 AM UTC-4, Doug Williams wrote:
>
> I just got a new Homer and love it. I did get a small amount of shimmy 
> when I had my SaddleSack Large fully loaded on an R14 rack with no other 
> weight anywhere else. But really...I have a Mark's front rack so there is 
> no excuse for that. I added a basket on the front so I'll put some weight 
> there if the shimmy returns. But now I wish I had popped for the 
> NeedleBlasteur headset. Maybe I'll get a NeedleBlasteur now anyway. But I 
> don't want to ding up my Hilsen trying to install it. How tough is it for 
> someone of only basic mechanical expertise to swap out a headset?
>
> Doug
>



Changing out a headset is a pretty easy job if you have the right tools, 
but potentially messy without them.To do it right, for removing the old 
headset you'll want a crown race puller, a cup remover, and a mallet or 
light hammer. For installation, you'll want a crown race setter.   For 
installing the cups you can just use a piece of 5/8" threaded rod, two 
nuts, and some big washers. 
 

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[RBW] loaded handling question

[Matt B.]

For mid trail or Surly/Rivendell-like geometries, when configuring a rear load 
it helps to keep as much weight as possible in front of the rear axle.   The 
contact patch of the rear tire is the fulcrum of a shimmy inducing lever. 
For the front you want low panniers with mass nearly concentric with the axle.  
A basket or rack is great for your tent and some lightweight clothing.   After 
that you can refine the handling with some experimentation, but ultimately you 
won't expert to ride with no hands when the bike is fully loaded.   

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[RBW] Re: Brilliant Bicycle Company

[Matt B.]

On Friday, May 29, 2015 at 9:00:22 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I've been getting Brilliant Bicycle stuff in my email (on purpose). The 
> bikes seem nice enough for the price, but the "we're super more better than 
> the others" copy, combined with a dearth of specs on the website, are a 
> little off-putting. But hey, I'd ride one to the corner store. 
>
>

I agree with you on the sparse/missing spec info, but I guess these aren't 
for bike geeks like me.  One thing that did put me off was the "When in 
doubt, size down for comfort." caption near the sizing selection.
Totally backwards to a Riv acolyte.  


 

> On Friday, May 29, 2015 at 5:15:49 PM UTC-7, Kieran J wrote:
>>
>> As one commenter rightfully put it, "truly unremarkable".
>>
>> KJ
>>
>>
>> On Friday, May 29, 2015 at 4:23:24 PM UTC-4, Eric Norris wrote:
>>>
>>> Thought this might be of interest to the group—a new company selling 
>>> simple MUSA bicycles:
>>>
>>>
>>> http://techcrunch.com/2015/05/27/ex-vcs-launch-brilliant-bicycle-co-with-1-5-million-in-funding/?ncid=rss&cps=gravity_1462_4834067520792034342#.7chmya:hLTJ
>>>  
>>>
>>> According to the article, their goal is to sell “reasonably priced 
>>> bikes to people who care more about simplicity and color than specs and 
>>> ounces."
>>>
>>> Hmmm … who else does that? They also point at mainstream cycling 
>>> companies whose ads feature, "pictures of high-end racing bikes ridden 
>>> by middle-aged, spandex-clad men."
>>>
>>> Oh, by the way, their prices start at $299 with free shipping in the 
>>> USA. 
>>>
>>> --Eric Norris
>>> campyo...@me.com
>>> www.campyonly.com
>>> campyonlyguy.blogspot.com 
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Threaded Headset Recommendation

[Matt B.]

+1 for the IRD roller drive headset sold by Rivendell.   




On Tuesday, May 26, 2015 at 12:33:11 PM UTC-4, George Schick wrote:
>
> This might be a good time for a testimonial for the IRD needle bearing 
> headset Riv sells.  The Shimano headset on my Rambouillet indexed about 4 
> years ago so I started looking for replacements.  I like the Chris King 
> products, but thought I'd give the IRD a shot, since Grant "sold" the idea 
> of needle bearings for the lower race.  So far it's worked flawlessly and I 
> do not detect any of the sluggishness that Grant described on the Riv web 
> page.  So I'd say give it a try if you want to go in that direction. 
>  Tightening the headset was tricky; I had to re-tighten it once or twice 
> after riding for a while because it doesn't seem to have the "feel" of the 
> bearing movement that ordinary ball-types do.  But once I got it dialed-in 
> it was OK.
>
> Installation was a different matter, however.  First of all, it comes 
> packed in a light corrosion inhibitor of some sort.  Opening everything up 
> and looking at the lower race components made me think of a miniature 
> version of an automobile front axle tapered bearing set.  So I had to 
> decide what kind of grease to use on everything.  I wound up just using the 
> regular Phil grease and it's worked fine.  Pressing the upper and lower 
> races into the head tube was one of the most difficult operations.  I had 
> everything well greased both inside the head tube as well as around the 
> races, but it went in with much greater difficulty than any headset I can 
> recall installing.  Not sure why this was.  In fact, some of the chrome 
> stripped off of the lower race during the process.  But I finally got it in 
> there OK.  I would definitely not recommend installing this (or any 
> headset, for that matter) without a decent installation tool, either like 
> the one Park makes or an improvised equivalent.  Then, getting the old 
> crown "race" off of the fork was a major challenge.  Whoever installed it 
> needs to think hard and long about how to do things - it was very 
> un-Riv-like.  Instead of sanding off the paint and primer and then greasing 
> the steering tube, they just hammered on there over paint and everything, 
> sans grease.  Never do that. It took lots of hammering with a drift punch. 
>  I'm not sure that even a bone fide crown race puller would've budged it. 
>  But that's all a different matter, unrelated to the IRD itself.
>
> On Tuesday, May 26, 2015 at 10:44:27 AM UTC-5, Darin G. wrote:
>>
>> I've managed to notch the Shimano 105  headset on my Rom.  My shop says 
>> he can't find the cartridge bearings for this headset, so we switched the 
>> bottom cartridge to the top for now, but  I'm researching a new one. This 
>> is the second headset I've had that was worn out by the 3500 mile mark, the 
>> other being the original Tange on my Hillborne, and I'm searching for a 
>> replacement that will last.  I've considered the CK headsets in the past 
>> but they seem mighty expensive and while most reviews are positive there 
>> are some reviews suggesting they are not worth the money.  Also considering 
>> the IRD needle roller bearing headset on the Riv site.  Other ideas would 
>> be appreciated!.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: stupid stem question

[Matt B.]

Just make sure the wedge is down past the threaded portion of the 
steerer.   On Rivendell frames the threaded portion is long, so just to be 
on the safe side you might want to hold the stem next to the HT and 
visually see how high the stem can be, and mark it yourself with a sharpie 
or some tape.




On Monday, May 25, 2015 at 8:18:08 PM UTC-4, drew wrote:
>
> Regarding minimum insertion line.  does the minimum insertion line mean 
> 'this far below the headset" or "below the locknuts" or "if you cant see 
> the line, you're good"?  ive got about 5cm in below the headset, and 
> another 5cm taken up by locknut/cable hanger/spacer
> too little?
>
>  father's day present bike building requires way high bars and even a 
> technomic is looking too short. 
>

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[RBW] Re: QB sizing questions

[Matt B.]

They measure center to top, and the top of the seat tube is the same as the 
top of the TT junction since it's lugged.The head tube on the 64cm QB 
is about 23cm. If you're eyeing one for sale, give riv a call and get 
their advice.But if you know your pbh, according to their sizing info 
webpage pbh minus 25 is a good rule to go by.



On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 6:19:34 PM UTC-4, Eric Daume wrote:
>
> One general Riv question and one QB specific question I'm hoping someone 
> can help me with:
>
> - How does Riv measure their frames? I think c-t, but center to top of the 
> seat tube, or the seat tube/top tube junction?
>
> - How long is the headtube on a 64cm QB?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

[Matt B.]

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 12:08:37 AM UTC-4, hangtownmatt wrote:
>
> For as long as I can remember, grease has been applied to seat posts to 
> prevent corrosion that WILL fuse the seat post to the seat tube.  Am I the 
> only one who thinks it is a mistake to eliminate grease from this contact 
> point?
>
> Matt
>
>

Definitely with you on that, you don't want to encourage seizing between 
the aluminum and steel.Grease works for this but I've also used 
anti-seize compound sometimes, which I think is less prone to slippage. 
In any case, sounds like the OP is all set now that the cable hanger has 
been ID'ed as the culprit.





 

> On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 7:17:04 AM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
>>
>> Just finished building my Hunqapillar over the weekend and rode it 20+ 
>> miles to work this morning.  Although still too early to tell, it has "my 
>> very favorite bike" stamped all over it.
>> With one possible exception:  I can't get the seatpost to stop slipping 
>> down.  Despite tightening the bolt to so hard that the allen hole is 
>> starting to strip, it still inches down as I ride, and we had to stop six 
>> times on the ride in this morning to raise the seat back up.  Very 
>> frustrating.  I had thought that maybe the brake cable hanger was 
>> interfering with the seat tube somehow, but I don't see how that can be 
>> avoided, given the shape of the hanger and the fact that it has to remain 
>> attached to the seatpost bolt.
>> Has anyone else experienced this problem?
>> Best to all,
>> Kevin
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Fender Frustration

[Matt B.]

I recommend cutting the top off the fork crown bracket on SKS fronts with a 
hacksaw & file.This among other things makes it very easy to remove by 
allowing you to slip it on/off the bolt or front-rack bolt when 
removing.The secu-clips on the rear thing is another good optimization 
though I haven't done it even when I had fenders on my qb, opting instead 
for the flared rear fender approach for rear-wheel removal.  Anyway 
it's good to have at least one bike with fenders on even if it doesn't rain 
much in a given season, just in case.




On Saturday, April 18, 2015 at 9:38:01 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Thanks! I'd forgotten to check their videos. It addresses several of my 
> issues. Like bolt cutters, bending the fork piece, etc. H.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick 
>
> On Saturday, April 18, 2015 at 7:13:46 PM UTC-6, lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> If I lived in your neck of the woods, Patrick, I would just come over 
>> there and do it with you!
>>
>> Have you watched the RBW fender installation video? It is helpful.  
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lG_WZVS9SUY
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Old Quickbeam

[Matt B.]

Mine also has a sticker S/N.If the QB fits you well and has been 
otherwise comfortable up to this point, I'd look into a SA internal gear 
hub like a fixed 3-speed, which you can just use with a freewheel.   good 
luck with it either way.



On Tuesday, March 31, 2015 at 8:24:24 PM UTC-4, Minh wrote:
>
> my QB only has a sticker for a SN.  
>
> IMHO, a QB (or a Rivendell in general) is not a Herse, and a QB was always 
> meant as an affordable bike so i don't see this as collectible.  Just my 
> opinion, i'd price this like all the other QBs that have floated through 
> the list and not worry too much about the provenance.
>
> On Tuesday, March 31, 2015 at 3:10:28 PM UTC-4, abar...@olypen.com wrote:
>>
>> I have an old Quickbeam that I am trying to get a little history on.  I 
>> purchased it used several years ago from a fellow who had an impressive 
>> stable full of spectacular bikes.  He said that he purchased it from the 
>> floor of a bicycle show some time around 2004.  He thought that it might be 
>> a prototype, but it does not have the fancy lugs that are shown on 
>> prototype examples in cyclofiend's website.  The trail grows cold here.  
>> There is no serial number stamped on the bottom bracket where I would 
>> expect to see it.  Only the name Rivendell is stamped into the shell.
>>
>> Did QB's have s/n's stamped like other Rivendell's?  Perhaps it is 
>> located in a different place?  Maybe it was on a sticker?
>>
>> I was hoping to find this information as I am considering selling this 
>> old friend as my knees aren't enjoying the ss experience like they once did 
>> and I would like to offer as much information as I can.
>>
>> Thank you, Adam.
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: All beausage team nomination

[Matt B.]

On Thursday, March 26, 2015 at 12:15:29 AM UTC-4, Don Compton wrote:
>
> While I love Rivendells, I just do not fall into the beausage crap. I have 
> ridden 6000 miles a year for over 25 years. I have always tried to keep my 
> bikes clean and well-lubed. I recently sold my Roadeo and the buyer got a 
> bike that was ridden many miles, but was in excellent condition and I feel 
> good about that. 
>


There is definitely a point when lack of care shortens the life of a bike 
or its parts, where you can probably call it neglect or abuse. But 
think the original purpose of the term 'beausage' was to celebrate the 
inevitable marks, wear, and other evidence of  a bicycle having been used 
as a faithful tool for living and doing.   Not sure where the above bikes 
fit, but it looks and sounds like they're being well used.
 



On Wednesday, March 25, 2015 at 4:46:27 PM UTC-7, joe b. wrote:
>
> Years ago there was a great mini-writeup on a former Riv-employee's 
> seriously patina-ed Rivendell (custom or Longlow, I think). Actually, I 
> think Grant mentioned it was straddling the abuse/beausage line. I nominate 
> this venerable Atlantis for the all beausage team. I've seen it doing 
> yeoman's work around campus for a while and finally captured it at rest.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclerslife/16723348737/
>
> It might take me another 10 years to get my canti-Rom on the JV squad if 
> that's the standard.
>
> Best,
> joe broach
> pdx or
>

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[RBW] Re: The aftermath of my recent car vs. bike hit and run.

[Matt B.]

What everyone else said-get well soon. You seem to be bouncing 
right back mentally, with looking into getting the S.O. fixed right away.   
In light of that I think it's a great idea to get that bike fixed soon.  It 
may help your spirit to see it back in shape as you heal too.


On Thursday, March 26, 2015 at 9:59:27 AM UTC-4, David Spranger wrote:
>
> Anyone have someone (east coast) qualifies to replace bent seat stays? 
> Worth sending back to RBW to let them handle the repairs? This is the bike 
> I consider most likely to carry me through the rest of my life. I am not 
> yet ready to give up on it.
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/73873271@N03/16909618466/
>
> David
>
> Charlotte, NC
>

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[RBW] Re: Chains do not like me.

[Matt B.]

The park mini chain tool easily handles most road chains like sram etc.
but some chains are pretty hard on that tool, like especially the kmc 
z510hx or some whipperman chains for instance.even the bigger park tool 
needs replacement pins after a few kmc chain adjustments. great chains 
though.


On Sunday, March 22, 2015 at 9:18:50 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> I've owned two chain tools in 40 years - lost the first one
>
> On Saturday, March 21, 2015 at 4:49:40 PM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> You think I'm THAT smart? Sardonic grin. I keep meaning to. I've broken 
>> my two old mini chain tools. Hopefully one of these day's I'll get them 
>> re-stocked in my bag. Still, I enjoyed the few miles of uphill running. All 
>> part of the fun! Grin.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Chains do not like me.

[Matt B.]

Cheers from another year-round bicycler in New England.This winter has 
been a doozy.



On Saturday, March 21, 2015 at 9:35:33 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>
> Good advice Matt. I use fenders, but I ride year round and I'm not at all 
> proactive about cleaning. I'm guessing the amount of grit and grime from 
> the New England winters has substantially lessened the lifespan of my 
> drivetrain.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Chains do not like me.

[Matt B.]

Fenders and especially a good mudflap can really prolong drive-train 
life.I'm just guessing but the increase in lifespan is maybe 4-5x.



On Saturday, March 21, 2015 at 7:21:22 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>
> Everyone seems to get many, many more miles out of everything than I do. I 
> have to change cassettes each season. The proof is in the pudding. I put on 
> a new chain, the bike doesn't shift well. I change the cassette, problem 
> solved. I tend to wear stuff out. I'm not really sure why. I'm not a 
> flyweight, and I tend to ride a bit bigger gear than others do. But I don't 
> really mind replacing parts. It''s well worth it to ride a machine that 
> shifts perfectly. 

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