Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 58 Rambouillet Frame/Fork/HS

[Nat Lichten]

Is it a slightly sloping top tube? 57cm as measured, 58cm ETT in catalogue?

On Friday, July 26, 2024 at 11:23:26 AM UTC-4 Michael Ullmer wrote:

> I measured from the center of the bb to the point where the seatpost first 
> becomes visible.
>
> On Fri, Jul 26, 2024 at 9:40 AM Hoch in ut  wrote:
>
>> To what point on the set tube are you measuring CTT? I don’t know the 
>> answer but always wondered whether you go to the pointy end of the lug or 
>> to where the seatpost first becomes visible. 
>>
>> On Friday, July 26, 2024 at 7:31:19 AM UTC-7 Michael Ullmer wrote:
>>
>>> Correct, but mine has a 57 top tube, unless I'm measuring it wrong.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jul 26, 2024 at 9:22 AM maxcr  wrote:
>>>
 Hi Mike,

 I think you have a 60 (like mine). Here's the geo from the Ram brochure 
 
  
 where you can see the 60 has a 58 top tube. Hope this helps.

 [image: ram.jpg]

 Max
 On Friday, July 26, 2024 at 9:32:40 AM UTC-4 Michael Ullmer wrote:

> Bump and an update on sizing:
>
> I listed this as a size 58 based on the 57 c-t-c top tube, though it 
> also has a 60cm c-t-t seat tube. Confusing, because the 58 size should 
> have 
> a 58 c-t-t seat tube. I had one buyer back out because they were 
> concerned 
> about standover.
>
> As a data point, I had this set up as 650x42 and it had a standover of 
> 83.5. I'm an 88 pbh, 5'11" height for reference and I found it fit well 
> for 
> me with a 90mm stem and drops.
>
> On Wednesday, July 24, 2024 at 4:08:04 PM UTC-5 Mike Godwin wrote:
>
>> Another data point, I shoed Ram #005 with up to 700x38 tires, with 
>> acceptable room to spare. Same brakes as noted above. I may have some 
>> photos on my home computer showing tire clearances.  I picked up #005, a 
>> floor demo, in August 2002. 
>> Mike SLO CA 
>> On Tuesday, July 23, 2024 at 3:37:25 PM UTC-7 Erik Wright wrote:
>>
>>> Not to derail too hard, but on the topic of Suntour Superbe brakes, 
>>> I happen to be selling a 1st gen Suntour Superbe group (brakes, levers, 
>>> DT 
>>> shifters, FD, RD) and a campagnolo crankset in case anybody needs the 
>>> parts 
>>> to build up this frameset. $300+ship if anyone is interested.
>>>
>>> Erik, Philly
>>> On Tuesday, July 23, 2024 at 5:28:05 PM UTC-4 Mike Godwin wrote:
>>>
 I had my Ram speed modulated with Suntour Superbe "normal" reach 
 brakes, i.e., 57 mm reach.
 Mike SLO CA

 On Tuesday, July 23, 2024 at 2:17:53 PM UTC-7 Michael Ullmer wrote:

> I only did 700x32 with fenders, I never tried bigger without 
> fenders
>
> On Tue, Jul 23, 2024 at 4:15 PM Hoch in ut  
> wrote:
>
>> From the link you provided, it says 700x38 fit? Did you mean 
>> 38’s? That’s definitely mid-reach territory. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, July 23, 2024 at 2:09:47 PM UTC-7 Michael Ullmer 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Yes, I don't recall if they were short or mid reach. They 
>>> weren't the Tektro R559s
>>>
>>> On Tue, Jul 23, 2024 at 4:07 PM Hoch in ut  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 For the 700x32 set up, did you use regular (short reach) 
 brakes? 

 On Tuesday, July 23, 2024 at 1:11:55 PM UTC-7 Michael Ullmer 
 wrote:

> It's time to part ways with my Ram. It's been a great frame 
> capable of lots of different build options, but overlaps too much 
> with my 
> Fitz Rando. 
>
> It was sold to me as a 60, but the top tube measures 57, so it 
> leads me to believe its a 58. Here's a link to the original 
> catalog with 
> geo chart at the end: 
> https://notfine.com/rivreader/Brochures/Rivendell%20Frames%20Rambouillet.pdf
>
> Frame is in great shape, one small dent on the top tube 
> presumably from the handlebar/shifter hitting it. I've tried to 
> capture 
> most of the paint scratches. This made a great 650bx42 conversion 
> with 
> fenders. I used Tektro R559 brakes to reach the lower rim brake 
> surface. As 
> a 700c build, I was able to do 32s with fenders.
>
> Comes with an Ultegra Headset installed and cable stops.
>
> I'll include an original Rambouillet catalog as well.
>
> Pics here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/kVPXz1K3bdXdt4ax9
>
> $750 plus shipping via ups ground.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mike in Minneapolis
>
 -- 

Re: [RBW] Re: Bike shop recs sought

[Nat Lichten]

Gearin' Up Bikes on Rhode Island Ave is a co-op with a great mission,
enthusiastic young workers/volunteers and a fun vibe. They tend to have an
interesting assortment of used bikes/parts and occasionally a good find for
cheap (were my go-to source for 7&8 spd XT when I lived in DC).

http://gearinupbicycles.org/

On Sun, Aug 8, 2021 at 10:19 AM ascpgh  wrote:

> I was hoping to read Steve P.'s rec.
>
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Saturday, August 7, 2021 at 10:46:28 AM UTC-5 Lucky wrote:
>
>> Hey all,
>> I will be in DC and the Alexandria, VA area for a few days next week. Any
>> good bike shops/Riv dealers I should visit? Bolster my tee shirt collection?
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Play & Slipping with Silver Bar End Shifters

[Nat Lichten]

Hi Johnny,

No solutions to suggest, but I had the same irritating issue with a rear
Riv silver shifter running 9 spd shimano mtn rear derailleurs. For me
tightening the thumb screw that held the shifter did help somewhat, but
only temporarily. I was going to try some loctite, but passed the bike on
to someone else before I had a chance.

-Nat in DC

On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 11:56 AM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> OK, it came from a shop, not from Rivendell, but we're assuming that it is
> stuff that's supposed to work together.  That's good
>
> There is no particular Left vs Right.  Either one can serve either role.
>  It's just a matter of whether you want the D-rings on the outside or the
> inside.  Since you've swapped things around liberally, can I assume you've
> already swapped the shifters?  Did they both do equally badly when used for
> the rear der?
>
> Next, please describe the "play".  What does this mean?  Do you mean you
> can wiggle the shifter side to side?  Do you mean you can wiggle the
> shifter in it's normal travel direction and it moves a bit before the cable
> starts moving?
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 8:05:44 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I have a complete set. It's the right hand shifter that's causing the
>> problem. 9 speed. I have a double chainring on the front with a granny gear
>> and a 36t big ring. This is setup to avoid shifting the front derailleur
>> too often, so I don't use the left hand shifter enough to say if it's got a
>> major problem. I tried a few different derailleurs, mostly variants of
>> Shimano Deore, but the slipping/ghost shifting persisted.
>>
>> The setup is a full Rivendell branded barend shifter set. No cobbling
>> together. I ordered it as a Dia Compe barend shifter set, and the shop I
>> bought it from sent me the Riv set.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Johnny
>>
>> On Mon, 1 Feb 2021 at 16:27, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>
>>> OK one step at a time
>>>
>>> 1. Do you have one Silver Bar end shifter or two?  Do both have a
>>> problem or only one?
>>> 2. Did you buy these Silver Bar end shifters complete from Rivendell
>>> Bicycle Works as bar end shifters?  Or did you or somebody else cobble
>>> together Silver Downtube shifters onto Shimano, or somebody elses bar end
>>> pods?
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2021 at 1:29:59 AM UTC-8 john...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Hello RBWers,

 I've been having problems with a set of older type RBW Silver bar end
 shifters.
 There seems to be a lot of play in the shifters. They've been like this
 out of the box.
 They also slip a  bit in the middle sprockets, ghost shifting from the
 bigger to smaller
 sprocket. Tightening the bolt that holds the shifter lever doesn't make
 much difference,
 even with the bolt done up pretty tight the play and slipping seem to
 persist.

 It seems this is a bit of a known problem with these shifters. Does
 anyone have any suggestions for a remedy for this? E.g. is it possible to
 add an additional washer somewhere?

 Thanks for any help,

 Johnny in Belgium

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Re: [RBW] Re: Talk Me Out of Building My Own Wheels

[Nat Lichten]

Do it! I built my first (and so far only) wheelset about a year ago. I
bought Roger Musson’s ebook and found it fairly straightforward if I
followed the instructions and took my time.

I used a cheap, flimsy stand off craigslist which worked fine. I would
invest in a dishing gauge if I were to do it over again—I had a hard time
getting this exactly right, and the front rim is a mm or two off center.

Overall I’m glad I did it. I haven’t had time to build more wheels, but as
someone who likes to do their own wrenching it’s nice to know I can.

The wheels have held up fine, too, even through a head-on crash that
totaled the frame I had them on.

-Nat,
Also in DC

On Mon, Oct 19, 2020 at 12:39 PM lconley  wrote:

> I built wheels for years with the sidepull brakes on the bike as the
> truing stand. Reversed the brake pads and let the acorn nut heads be the
> side to side, rubber banded a small combination wrench across the brake
> pads to do the up and down. It can be done - did it that way for decades. A
> few years ago, I got a truing stand, then a dish gage, then a tension gage,
> then a stand centering tool, then dial indicators. I also started using
> spoke prep and never-seize. I am somewhat faster now, but my rims are much,
> much truer longer. I have built 3 pairs of wheels in the last few months -
> for my Rivendell Custom, Rivendell Cargo Bike, and just this past weekend -
> the Gus Boots Wilsen. Now I am getting really picky - making sure that the
> "Phil" lettering on the hub faces the spoke hole, from the side of the bike
> the rim decal on the left says "Velocity" on the rim decal on the right
> says "Cliffhanger" or "Quill" as the case may be. Its a slippery slope. I
> really enjoy building my own wheels - go for it. One side effect - I have
> even more wheels than bikes and I own way too many bikes.
>
> Spoke prep, never-seize and tensioning gage were big improvements to
> quality. Dial indicators added speed, which adds to quality - I get the
> wheels truer now, before getting impatient and declaring "good enough."
>
> Laing
> Delray Beach FL
>
> On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 11:25:58 AM UTC-4, Steven Seelig wrote:
>>
>> So with COVID and all, I've decided that now is the time to do stuff that
>> I haven't ever done before.  Learning to speak French is perhaps a bridge
>> too far - not so good at language.  But it seems reasonable to think that I
>> can at least build a front wheel with a Dyno hub to put on the Sam I ride
>> in the means streets of DC and on some gravel.
>>
>> I have a truing stand but not a dishing tool.  I would say I am a
>> competent wrencher.  Of course anyone who has built up a wheel did it once
>> for the first time.  Is this something I should take on?  What are the odds
>> for success?  Will I quit in frustration?
>>
>> Points of view encouraged.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Bags, parts, wheels, nice and cheap

[Nat Lichten]

Hi Marty,

I may be interested in experimenting with the caradice bag as a handlebar
bag, if it’s still available and it wouldn’t be too much trouble to meet
up. I’m in DC—live in NE and work by Union Station. Let me know if you’re
ever in the area!

Thanks,
Nat

On Sat, Aug 17, 2019 at 8:20 AM Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA <
martinpgie...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Updated list
>
>
>> Sackville Back-a-bike bag. Grey. Unused.  $65 shipped
>> Caradice Cadet. Great condition with extra new straps.  $35 shipped
>> Ritchey stem for 1" threadless headtube. $12 shipped
>> Campagnolo SR Seatpost. 26.6 with box.  $25 shipped
>> 700c CR18 wheelset with Shimano dynohub front. 135 rear. 36h f 7-speed
>> cassette. Strong and true.  $125 + shipping
>> GreaseGuard headset (from a Bridgestone MB-1)  $10 shipped
>> Dia Compe levers. Early big ones. $12 shipped
>>
>>
>> Pics here:
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/32306142@N07/albums/72157708893255016
>>
>> Bundle offers welcome. Ask for details. Local meetups fine and I'll knock
>> off $5 per item. (Baltimore Washington area) Reply offline.
>>
>> Marty
>>
>>
>>
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