Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Form vs. function? I would say if my life depended on it, I would take the V-Brakes. In my experience, they have more leverage and are more powerful. I don't buy the "too much" is bad - it's a matter of learning how much braking you've got, and experimenting a bit to find out what to do with it. You have the same issue if the surface is slippery - a slight touch on less powerful brakes can wipe you out. Gotta learn to feel your brake control. It's like throttle control on a motor bike. I guess we could also argue that all brakes are an eyesore (like the fixie crowd). Brian On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 9:42 PM, cm wrote: > I would think cantis are much more powerful-- especially if they have > longer arms. One respected brake maker recommends against putting > their cantis on lighter weight frames as the stopping power can ruin > the frame. That is impressive. I'd like to see that. > > I see the +'s and -'s to both. In the end I prefer v-brakes if only > cuz cantis always seem so darn fickle. > > Cheers! > cm > > On Nov 30, 9:37 pm, Earl Grey wrote: > > I have to agree with Jim Thill that V-brakes are more powerful than > > cantis, but I think that is one reason to *stay away* from them unless > > you do a lot of steep downhill single track, where hand-fatigue from > > braking can become a real issue. > > > > More power = less modulation, all other things being equal. One data > > point: My 100 lb ex-girlfriend was riding her V-brake non-suspension > > Cannondale mtn bike in the park, going slow on a slight down slope > > (10-12mph?) and casually reached for her brakes to slow down a bit. A > > second later she found herself on the pavement, having gone over the > > bars as the front brake had locked up. Her brakes were properly set > > up. A brake that is so powerful that it can lock up a wheel when you > > are simply trying to slow very gently is at least as dangerous as a > > brake that requires white knuckles to lock up the wheel. > > > > In addition to being driven by ease of set-up, reduced costs, and > > trying to convince people that what they bought two years ago isn't > > good enough anymore, too much bike innovation is developed for the > > lunatic road- or downhill-racing fringe, and may actually be a step in > > the wrong direction for transportation/smell the roses type cyclists. > > > > Just my 2 Thai Baht, > > > > Gernot > > > > On Nov 30, 11:58 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery > > > > wrote: > > > Making build-ups faster is certainly a consideration. But I disagree > > > that the refinements in bicycle and component design are not, in fact, > > > genuine improvements. Here's my take on how these examples represent > > > improvements for the end-user: > > > > > V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantilevers have > > > stopping power that's comparable to that of v-brakes, provided that > > > the set-up is correct. This has never been my observation, as v-brakes > > > have always seemed much more powerful to me. I concede that I may not > > > know the secrets to canti set-up, though I have done it many, many > > > times, usually for money. For my own bikes, I was a canti-fan up until > > > the last year or so, and I used them all. Now I'm all about v-brakes. > > > > > outboard BB bearings: there's no point in considering these bearings > > > except as part of the modern crank/bb assembly. The outboard > > > positioning of the bearings allow for a larger bearing with the wider > > > spacing reducing the force on each bearing. This should represent > > > added stiffness and durability and perhaps reduced weight, which may > > > or may not be relevant to the end-user. Aside from that, the entire > > > assembly can be disassembled and serviced with an 5mm wrench and a > > > Park BBT-9 tool. These are much easier to use (and harder to screw up) > > > than a thread-in crank puller and the splined BB tool (plus big wrench > > > or ratchet) that is required for the older Shimano UN series square- > > > taper cartridge BBs. Consider chain suck. With the modern style of > > > crank, it is a simple matter to loosen the crank with a 5mm wrench to > > > extract the chain without further damaging the paint on the chainstay. > > > With square taper systems, I have had times where I would have been > > > stranded if I wasn't compulsive about carrying lots of tools, like a > > > crank puller and 8mm allen wrench, for example... > > > > > Threadless headsets: > > > Again, ease of adjustment with common tools is a big one for me. I've > > > had loosening threaded headsets on long rides...where did I put those > > > headset spanners again? I also much prefer a 9/8" threadless set-up > > > for the added stiffness when I have a heavy front load. I still use > > > bikes with threaded/quill arrangements because I have them and they're > > > fine for most of my riding, but if I'm buying a new bike, I consider > > > threadless to be a significant advantage. Aesthetically, I think both > > > are fine,
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
I would think cantis are much more powerful-- especially if they have longer arms. One respected brake maker recommends against putting their cantis on lighter weight frames as the stopping power can ruin the frame. That is impressive. I'd like to see that. I see the +'s and -'s to both. In the end I prefer v-brakes if only cuz cantis always seem so darn fickle. Cheers! cm On Nov 30, 9:37 pm, Earl Grey wrote: > I have to agree with Jim Thill that V-brakes are more powerful than > cantis, but I think that is one reason to *stay away* from them unless > you do a lot of steep downhill single track, where hand-fatigue from > braking can become a real issue. > > More power = less modulation, all other things being equal. One data > point: My 100 lb ex-girlfriend was riding her V-brake non-suspension > Cannondale mtn bike in the park, going slow on a slight down slope > (10-12mph?) and casually reached for her brakes to slow down a bit. A > second later she found herself on the pavement, having gone over the > bars as the front brake had locked up. Her brakes were properly set > up. A brake that is so powerful that it can lock up a wheel when you > are simply trying to slow very gently is at least as dangerous as a > brake that requires white knuckles to lock up the wheel. > > In addition to being driven by ease of set-up, reduced costs, and > trying to convince people that what they bought two years ago isn't > good enough anymore, too much bike innovation is developed for the > lunatic road- or downhill-racing fringe, and may actually be a step in > the wrong direction for transportation/smell the roses type cyclists. > > Just my 2 Thai Baht, > > Gernot > > On Nov 30, 11:58 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery > > wrote: > > Making build-ups faster is certainly a consideration. But I disagree > > that the refinements in bicycle and component design are not, in fact, > > genuine improvements. Here's my take on how these examples represent > > improvements for the end-user: > > > V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantilevers have > > stopping power that's comparable to that of v-brakes, provided that > > the set-up is correct. This has never been my observation, as v-brakes > > have always seemed much more powerful to me. I concede that I may not > > know the secrets to canti set-up, though I have done it many, many > > times, usually for money. For my own bikes, I was a canti-fan up until > > the last year or so, and I used them all. Now I'm all about v-brakes. > > > outboard BB bearings: there's no point in considering these bearings > > except as part of the modern crank/bb assembly. The outboard > > positioning of the bearings allow for a larger bearing with the wider > > spacing reducing the force on each bearing. This should represent > > added stiffness and durability and perhaps reduced weight, which may > > or may not be relevant to the end-user. Aside from that, the entire > > assembly can be disassembled and serviced with an 5mm wrench and a > > Park BBT-9 tool. These are much easier to use (and harder to screw up) > > than a thread-in crank puller and the splined BB tool (plus big wrench > > or ratchet) that is required for the older Shimano UN series square- > > taper cartridge BBs. Consider chain suck. With the modern style of > > crank, it is a simple matter to loosen the crank with a 5mm wrench to > > extract the chain without further damaging the paint on the chainstay. > > With square taper systems, I have had times where I would have been > > stranded if I wasn't compulsive about carrying lots of tools, like a > > crank puller and 8mm allen wrench, for example... > > > Threadless headsets: > > Again, ease of adjustment with common tools is a big one for me. I've > > had loosening threaded headsets on long rides...where did I put those > > headset spanners again? I also much prefer a 9/8" threadless set-up > > for the added stiffness when I have a heavy front load. I still use > > bikes with threaded/quill arrangements because I have them and they're > > fine for most of my riding, but if I'm buying a new bike, I consider > > threadless to be a significant advantage. Aesthetically, I think both > > are fine, but I came of age with bikes after threaded headsets and > > clamp-on stems were commonplace. > > > compact frames: If the bike fits and rides well, then it doesn't > > matter unless you're attached to a certain look as being "correct". I > > have come to prefer traditional designs, because they make for a > > bigger triangle to accommodate my 40oz water bottles, various frame > > bags, etc. > > > I have often noticed that older bikes, say a 1970s/80s touring bike or > > a 1950s 3-speed are more similar to modern bikes than they are > > dissimilar. I could have a grand time riding a 50-year-old 3-speed > > across the continent. Older equipment and older technologies work as > > well now as they ever did. And if certain aesthetics or certain > > nostalgic leanings are importa
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
I have to agree with Jim Thill that V-brakes are more powerful than cantis, but I think that is one reason to *stay away* from them unless you do a lot of steep downhill single track, where hand-fatigue from braking can become a real issue. More power = less modulation, all other things being equal. One data point: My 100 lb ex-girlfriend was riding her V-brake non-suspension Cannondale mtn bike in the park, going slow on a slight down slope (10-12mph?) and casually reached for her brakes to slow down a bit. A second later she found herself on the pavement, having gone over the bars as the front brake had locked up. Her brakes were properly set up. A brake that is so powerful that it can lock up a wheel when you are simply trying to slow very gently is at least as dangerous as a brake that requires white knuckles to lock up the wheel. In addition to being driven by ease of set-up, reduced costs, and trying to convince people that what they bought two years ago isn't good enough anymore, too much bike innovation is developed for the lunatic road- or downhill-racing fringe, and may actually be a step in the wrong direction for transportation/smell the roses type cyclists. Just my 2 Thai Baht, Gernot On Nov 30, 11:58 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: > Making build-ups faster is certainly a consideration. But I disagree > that the refinements in bicycle and component design are not, in fact, > genuine improvements. Here's my take on how these examples represent > improvements for the end-user: > > V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantilevers have > stopping power that's comparable to that of v-brakes, provided that > the set-up is correct. This has never been my observation, as v-brakes > have always seemed much more powerful to me. I concede that I may not > know the secrets to canti set-up, though I have done it many, many > times, usually for money. For my own bikes, I was a canti-fan up until > the last year or so, and I used them all. Now I'm all about v-brakes. > > outboard BB bearings: there's no point in considering these bearings > except as part of the modern crank/bb assembly. The outboard > positioning of the bearings allow for a larger bearing with the wider > spacing reducing the force on each bearing. This should represent > added stiffness and durability and perhaps reduced weight, which may > or may not be relevant to the end-user. Aside from that, the entire > assembly can be disassembled and serviced with an 5mm wrench and a > Park BBT-9 tool. These are much easier to use (and harder to screw up) > than a thread-in crank puller and the splined BB tool (plus big wrench > or ratchet) that is required for the older Shimano UN series square- > taper cartridge BBs. Consider chain suck. With the modern style of > crank, it is a simple matter to loosen the crank with a 5mm wrench to > extract the chain without further damaging the paint on the chainstay. > With square taper systems, I have had times where I would have been > stranded if I wasn't compulsive about carrying lots of tools, like a > crank puller and 8mm allen wrench, for example... > > Threadless headsets: > Again, ease of adjustment with common tools is a big one for me. I've > had loosening threaded headsets on long rides...where did I put those > headset spanners again? I also much prefer a 9/8" threadless set-up > for the added stiffness when I have a heavy front load. I still use > bikes with threaded/quill arrangements because I have them and they're > fine for most of my riding, but if I'm buying a new bike, I consider > threadless to be a significant advantage. Aesthetically, I think both > are fine, but I came of age with bikes after threaded headsets and > clamp-on stems were commonplace. > > compact frames: If the bike fits and rides well, then it doesn't > matter unless you're attached to a certain look as being "correct". I > have come to prefer traditional designs, because they make for a > bigger triangle to accommodate my 40oz water bottles, various frame > bags, etc. > > I have often noticed that older bikes, say a 1970s/80s touring bike or > a 1950s 3-speed are more similar to modern bikes than they are > dissimilar. I could have a grand time riding a 50-year-old 3-speed > across the continent. Older equipment and older technologies work as > well now as they ever did. And if certain aesthetics or certain > nostalgic leanings are important to a cyclist, and the parts are still > available, there's no reason to not be "retro". But for those of us > who are mechanical geeks and get exposed to all the latest and > greatest, some of the older technologies, while they may be adequate, > seem rather archaic and cumbersome. > > cyclotourist wrote: > > Basically every "improvement" in bicycle components & design over the > last > two decades has been to make build ups faster. They may or may not > improve > things on the bike, usually neutral at best. Consider the following: > > V-brakes: check
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
I would also say that the ease of set-up is a major help to bike shops too, especially ones that have inexperienced folks (cheap) running the repair side of things. I guess for me its easy to be retro-grouchy I do all my own wrenching except for wheel truing, I give that to a friend who has been doing it for 30 plus years. I know how to set-up anything except disc brakes, which is fine cause I dont plan on using them. Im one of those odd cats that loves fiddly parts and I like working on my bikes almost as much as I like riding. I like the challenge of getting odd combinations of things working well together, when they can, and have tried many different kinds of set-ups. I like mixing it all up a bit. my interest in bike tech ends at about the year 1998 though. Disc brakes, full suspension, carbon fiber, 9 spd and above, are all a distraction from the purity of the experience of riding a bike for me at least. Aesthetically too most bike stuff after the late 90's is just plain fugly for me. surprise surprise, after all this is the RBW Owners bunch. On Nov 30, 8:58 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: > Making build-ups faster is certainly a consideration. But I disagree > that the refinements in bicycle and component design are not, in fact, > genuine improvements. Here's my take on how these examples represent > improvements for the end-user: > > V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantilevers have > stopping power that's comparable to that of v-brakes, provided that > the set-up is correct. This has never been my observation, as v-brakes > have always seemed much more powerful to me. I concede that I may not > know the secrets to canti set-up, though I have done it many, many > times, usually for money. For my own bikes, I was a canti-fan up until > the last year or so, and I used them all. Now I'm all about v-brakes. > > outboard BB bearings: there's no point in considering these bearings > except as part of the modern crank/bb assembly. The outboard > positioning of the bearings allow for a larger bearing with the wider > spacing reducing the force on each bearing. This should represent > added stiffness and durability and perhaps reduced weight, which may > or may not be relevant to the end-user. Aside from that, the entire > assembly can be disassembled and serviced with an 5mm wrench and a > Park BBT-9 tool. These are much easier to use (and harder to screw up) > than a thread-in crank puller and the splined BB tool (plus big wrench > or ratchet) that is required for the older Shimano UN series square- > taper cartridge BBs. Consider chain suck. With the modern style of > crank, it is a simple matter to loosen the crank with a 5mm wrench to > extract the chain without further damaging the paint on the chainstay. > With square taper systems, I have had times where I would have been > stranded if I wasn't compulsive about carrying lots of tools, like a > crank puller and 8mm allen wrench, for example... > > Threadless headsets: > Again, ease of adjustment with common tools is a big one for me. I've > had loosening threaded headsets on long rides...where did I put those > headset spanners again? I also much prefer a 9/8" threadless set-up > for the added stiffness when I have a heavy front load. I still use > bikes with threaded/quill arrangements because I have them and they're > fine for most of my riding, but if I'm buying a new bike, I consider > threadless to be a significant advantage. Aesthetically, I think both > are fine, but I came of age with bikes after threaded headsets and > clamp-on stems were commonplace. > > compact frames: If the bike fits and rides well, then it doesn't > matter unless you're attached to a certain look as being "correct". I > have come to prefer traditional designs, because they make for a > bigger triangle to accommodate my 40oz water bottles, various frame > bags, etc. > > I have often noticed that older bikes, say a 1970s/80s touring bike or > a 1950s 3-speed are more similar to modern bikes than they are > dissimilar. I could have a grand time riding a 50-year-old 3-speed > across the continent. Older equipment and older technologies work as > well now as they ever did. And if certain aesthetics or certain > nostalgic leanings are important to a cyclist, and the parts are still > available, there's no reason to not be "retro". But for those of us > who are mechanical geeks and get exposed to all the latest and > greatest, some of the older technologies, while they may be adequate, > seem rather archaic and cumbersome. > > cyclotourist wrote: > > Basically every "improvement" in bicycle components & design over the > last > two decades has been to make build ups faster. They may or may not > improve > things on the bike, usually neutral at best. Consider the following: > > V-brakes: check > outboard BB bearings: check > threadless headsets: check > "compact" frames: check > > All these are fine and good, and don't hurt anything, but are
Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
On Tue, 2010-11-30 at 10:32 -0800, CycloFiend wrote: > > To me, linear pulls changed the response from "pressure-based" to > "time-based". On my lp bikes, you would brake with a little "dit" of > pressure to the lever - usually with one or two fingers, which would > nearly lock the wheel. So the braking would tend to be be on/off, > on/off, on/off until you had decellerated. In a word, "binary". Add "ugly," and you have the two words that together define and rule them out for me. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
on 11/30/10 8:58 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: > V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantilevers have > stopping power that's comparable to that of v-brakes, provided that > the set-up is correct. This has never been my observation, as v-brakes > have always seemed much more powerful to me. I concede that I may not > know the secrets to canti set-up, though I have done it many, many > times, usually for money. For my own bikes, I was a canti-fan up until > the last year or so, and I used them all. Now I'm all about v-brakes. The specific benefit for the linear-pull brake design was that it liberated cable routing. For suspension mtb's, this was critical. The cable stop became part of the brake, so you could run the cabling in all manner of methods. And although Sheldon stated it better than I, the other major difference was that it took the leverage and "moved" it from the brake to the brake lever. This simplified setup tremendously, which is arguably what Shimano had attempted to do by changing to a fixed straddle yoke method of attachment. Ease of setup is a good thing. You want brakes to stop you. When canti's are set up wrong, the braking can be horrible. Use the brakes you can set up reliably and understand when things go wrong. My main beef with linear pull has never changed - aside from the issues of fender mounting with a lp brake - they lack the range of useful response which properly set up canti's have. To me, linear pulls changed the response from "pressure-based" to "time-based". On my lp bikes, you would brake with a little "dit" of pressure to the lever - usually with one or two fingers, which would nearly lock the wheel. So the braking would tend to be be on/off, on/off, on/off until you had decellerated. With canti's, I've found there to be much more middle ground. You can scrub a little speed to start, and if you aren't quite right, apply more pressure. In the real world, where panic starts to set in, as you ramp up your adrenalin, you apply more brake. With linear pulls, where you quickly get to skidding levels, you need an "anti-lock" circuit in your brain which tells your paws to lighten up. Obviously, this is what works for me, and it also gets reinforced biomechanically everytime I use canti's, on and off-road. If I'd just ridden lp brakes, I'd have a better developed sense of pressure sensitivity with the narrower range inherent to the design. - Jim "off to work on a canti-braked Quickbeam..." -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com "I had to ride slow because I was taking my guerrilla route, the one I follow when I assume that everyone in a car is out to get me." -- Neal Stephenson, "Zodiac" -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Making build-ups faster is certainly a consideration. But I disagree that the refinements in bicycle and component design are not, in fact, genuine improvements. Here's my take on how these examples represent improvements for the end-user: V-brakes: A lot of people seem to be saying that cantilevers have stopping power that's comparable to that of v-brakes, provided that the set-up is correct. This has never been my observation, as v-brakes have always seemed much more powerful to me. I concede that I may not know the secrets to canti set-up, though I have done it many, many times, usually for money. For my own bikes, I was a canti-fan up until the last year or so, and I used them all. Now I'm all about v-brakes. outboard BB bearings: there's no point in considering these bearings except as part of the modern crank/bb assembly. The outboard positioning of the bearings allow for a larger bearing with the wider spacing reducing the force on each bearing. This should represent added stiffness and durability and perhaps reduced weight, which may or may not be relevant to the end-user. Aside from that, the entire assembly can be disassembled and serviced with an 5mm wrench and a Park BBT-9 tool. These are much easier to use (and harder to screw up) than a thread-in crank puller and the splined BB tool (plus big wrench or ratchet) that is required for the older Shimano UN series square- taper cartridge BBs. Consider chain suck. With the modern style of crank, it is a simple matter to loosen the crank with a 5mm wrench to extract the chain without further damaging the paint on the chainstay. With square taper systems, I have had times where I would have been stranded if I wasn't compulsive about carrying lots of tools, like a crank puller and 8mm allen wrench, for example... Threadless headsets: Again, ease of adjustment with common tools is a big one for me. I've had loosening threaded headsets on long rides...where did I put those headset spanners again? I also much prefer a 9/8" threadless set-up for the added stiffness when I have a heavy front load. I still use bikes with threaded/quill arrangements because I have them and they're fine for most of my riding, but if I'm buying a new bike, I consider threadless to be a significant advantage. Aesthetically, I think both are fine, but I came of age with bikes after threaded headsets and clamp-on stems were commonplace. compact frames: If the bike fits and rides well, then it doesn't matter unless you're attached to a certain look as being "correct". I have come to prefer traditional designs, because they make for a bigger triangle to accommodate my 40oz water bottles, various frame bags, etc. I have often noticed that older bikes, say a 1970s/80s touring bike or a 1950s 3-speed are more similar to modern bikes than they are dissimilar. I could have a grand time riding a 50-year-old 3-speed across the continent. Older equipment and older technologies work as well now as they ever did. And if certain aesthetics or certain nostalgic leanings are important to a cyclist, and the parts are still available, there's no reason to not be "retro". But for those of us who are mechanical geeks and get exposed to all the latest and greatest, some of the older technologies, while they may be adequate, seem rather archaic and cumbersome. cyclotourist wrote: Basically every "improvement" in bicycle components & design over the last two decades has been to make build ups faster. They may or may not improve things on the bike, usually neutral at best. Consider the following: V-brakes: check outboard BB bearings: check threadless headsets: check "compact" frames: check All these are fine and good, and don't hurt anything, but are really unnecessary. They let a factory put more bikes out and let the shops assemble them faster (with less customer complaints). The problem is that they're marketed as "improvements" which they aren't for the end user. And they make perfectly good parts and designs outdated, which bugs most of us here. My $.02 for the evening. On Nov 29, 7:53 pm, cyclotourist wrote: > Basically every "improvement" in bicycle components & design over the last > two decades has been to make build ups faster. They may or may not improve > things on the bike, usually neutral at best. Consider the following: > > V-brakes: check > outboard BB bearings: check > threadless headsets: check > "compact" frames: check > > All these are fine and good, and don't hurt anything, but are really > unnecessary. They let a factory put more bikes out and let the shops > assemble them faster (with less customer complaints). The problem is that > they're marketed as "improvements" which they aren't for the end user. And > they make perfectly good parts and designs outdated, which bugs most of us > here. > > My $.02 for the evening. > > > > On Mon, Nov 29, 2010 at 1:46 PM, williwoods wrote: > > I have to disagree with some of the statements. > > > V-brakes are just e
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Bummer the 90mm brake arm on the TRP V brakes would put the cable right through where my Nitto mini attaches to the fork crown...not good. On Nov 30, 10:53 am, stevep33 wrote: > those Tekro V road levers don't work for me either. > > v-brakes with regular road leversawesome. > > On Nov 23, 4:17 pm, Erik wrote: > > > Regarding brakes--you might check out the new TRP CX-9 v-brakes > > (http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1040&catid=185). They > > are a short-armed v-brake designed to work with road levers. I have > > some of the Tektro road levers designed for regular v-brakes, and am > > not particularly impressed. The shape isn't great, and the leverage > > ratio doesn't seem quite right. > > > -Erik > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
those Tekro V road levers don't work for me either. v-brakes with regular road leversawesome. On Nov 23, 4:17 pm, Erik wrote: > Regarding brakes--you might check out the new TRP CX-9 v-brakes > (http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1040&catid=185). They > are a short-armed v-brake designed to work with road levers. I have > some of the Tektro road levers designed for regular v-brakes, and am > not particularly impressed. The shape isn't great, and the leverage > ratio doesn't seem quite right. > > -Erik -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
"unsymmetrical arms?" Maybe you're thinking of sidepulls? :^) I have a bike with v-brakes. It's an outlier in my history, in that in ten years I've never had to dick around with the setup once. The levers have adjusters to change the pivot point, and there's plenty of modulation. They're prettier than my Quickbeam's stock brakes, too... I love that Google's first return for "v-brakes" is Sheldon's article on adjusting them. Philip Philip Williamson www.biketinker.com On Nov 29, 1:25 pm, Michael_S wrote: > V brakes had their place in the evolution of braking IMO. For big > knobby tired bikes( 2.3 inches+) they were better than poorly adjusted > canti's. On those same MTB bike they have been replaced by disc brakes > almost exclusively. A well adjusted good quality cantilever brake is > just as powerful and is orders of magnitude better looking. The > mismatched, unsymetrical arms of the V brake look out of place on a > beautiful Rivendell bike. :-} > > ~Mike~ > > On Nov 29, 12:05 pm, RoadieRyan wrote: > > > +1 on V brakes with the Tektro road levers. I have them set up with > > some Avid V brakes on my Handsome Devil. Overall I still prefer > > sidepulls for set up and adjustment but I like the V's over the > > Canti's. > > > R > > > On Nov 29, 12:07 am, Daniel M wrote: > > > > Can I also chime in in favor of V-brakes with Tektro levers? I have > > > had my Hillborne since May built by Rivendell with Deore V-brakes, > > > Noodle bars, and Tektro levers and interruptors. The braking is > > > superb. Loaded touring with tent, sleeping bag, food, clothes, etc, > > > coming down paved roads at 35mph, in the drops, and literally only > > > needing ONE finger on each lever to moderate slowing/stopping > > > perfectly. I had a Bianchi Volpe with short-arm cantis and needed to > > > apply so much pressure in similar situations that my hands ached. > > > > The long-arm cantis that Rivendell sells are doubtless much better > > > than the ones that came on my Volpe, but V-brakes are so powerful, so > > > simple, and so easy to adjust that I can't imagine using anything > > > else. > > > > DM > > > > On Nov 24, 3:28 am, EricP wrote: > > > > > Another one who feels that the 113 BB length is good. > > > > > Will chime in on the brakes - my SH presently has Tektro 720 > > > > cantilevers. The main winter project is switching it over to V > > > > brakes. The cantis are not bad. But overall the newer V brakes are > > > > so much nicer for stopping power. The only cantis, IMO, that come > > > > close are the Pauls. If price is no object, then, yeah, go that > > > > route. Otherwise, it's V for me. > > > > > Oh yeah, my back story is originally riding on old mountain bikes > > > > (back when they were new) and cantilevers were king. So I've always > > > > been able to set them up. Even with that, still prefer them > > > > newfangled stoppythingies. > > > > > Eric Platt > > > > St. Paul, MN > > > > > On Nov 24, 12:52 am, charlie wrote: > > > > > > If it doesn't rub its okay..- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
I would agree with the brakes thing. A canti and V brake have exactly the same mechanical stopping power. The issue is setup. It is also cable routing in that liniar pull brake has fewer issues with the cable placement and with articulated frames. Tha t said, I replace a set of Suntour XC-Pro canti's on my Sam because I could not get pads for them at the time and the Avid didgit 7 liniar pull brake stops just amazingly well. The problem I had is that the levers were made for Cantis and don't work great however, that was easily corrected as well On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 9:53 AM, cyclotourist wrote: > Basically every "improvement" in bicycle components & design over the last > two decades has been to make build ups faster. They may or may not improve > things on the bike, usually neutral at best. Consider the following: > > V-brakes: check > outboard BB bearings: check > threadless headsets: check > "compact" frames: check > > All these are fine and good, and don't hurt anything, but are really > unnecessary. They let a factory put more bikes out and let the shops > assemble them faster (with less customer complaints). The problem is that > they're marketed as "improvements" which they aren't for the end user. And > they make perfectly good parts and designs outdated, which bugs most of us > here. > > My $.02 for the evening. > > > On Mon, Nov 29, 2010 at 1:46 PM, williwoods wrote: > >> I have to disagree with some of the statements. >> >> V-brakes are just easier not to screw up during setup (fewer >> adjustments, fewer things to setup wrong), thats really the only major >> advantage, there is a small leverage benefit but canti's have better >> modulation in general. >> >> If you setup Canti's properly and run the right brake pads and proper >> short pull levers they will stop as well as any cable actuated rim >> brake will maybe even as good as cable discs. I have bikes that run >> Canti's that you can lock up the wheels with 1 finger. I have also >> used V-brakes that sucked. >> >> The trick is older Canti's can be a pain to setup right, Im talking XT >> cantilever brakes here or similar. Or really any kind that uses the >> plain non-threaded post mount brake pads, except the 90's Avid >> Cantilever brakes those are the best for setup ever. Most of it is >> about geometry though. You have to have the Straddle cable setup right >> and then have to have the brake pads hitting the rim at 90 degrees and >> toed in, most of the poorly performing Canti brakes are not adjusted >> to the correct geometry. Proper setup of Canti Brakes is a bit of a >> lost art these days. >> >> >> Nowadays the Tektro CR720 Cantilever Brakes are just about as easy to >> setup as V brakes, mostly due to the fact that they use regular V- >> brake style brake pads. The only thing more fiddly on these is setting >> up the straddle cable correctly. The Pauls would also be just as easy >> to setup right, or again any canti brake that uses the threaded V >> brake brake pads. >> >> >> anyway thats my 2 cents. >> >> Will >> >> >> On Nov 29, 12:05 pm, RoadieRyan wrote: >> > +1 on V brakes with the Tektro road levers. I have them set up with >> > some Avid V brakes on my Handsome Devil. Overall I still prefer >> > sidepulls for set up and adjustment but I like the V's over the >> > Canti's. >> > >> > R >> > >> > On Nov 29, 12:07 am, Daniel M wrote: >> > >> > >> > >> > > Can I also chime in in favor of V-brakes with Tektro levers? I have >> > > had my Hillborne since May built by Rivendell with Deore V-brakes, >> > > Noodle bars, and Tektro levers and interruptors. The braking is >> > > superb. Loaded touring with tent, sleeping bag, food, clothes, etc, >> > > coming down paved roads at 35mph, in the drops, and literally only >> > > needing ONE finger on each lever to moderate slowing/stopping >> > > perfectly. I had a Bianchi Volpe with short-arm cantis and needed to >> > > apply so much pressure in similar situations that my hands ached. >> > >> > > The long-arm cantis that Rivendell sells are doubtless much better >> > > than the ones that came on my Volpe, but V-brakes are so powerful, so >> > > simple, and so easy to adjust that I can't imagine using anything >> > > else. >> > >> > > DM >> > >> > > On Nov 24, 3:28 am, EricP wrote: >> > >> > > > Another one who feels that the 113 BB length is good. >> > >> > > > Will chime in on the brakes - my SH presently has Tektro 720 >> > > > cantilevers. The main winter project is switching it over to V >> > > > brakes. The cantis are not bad. But overall the newer V brakes are >> > > > so much nicer for stopping power. The only cantis, IMO, that come >> > > > close are the Pauls. If price is no object, then, yeah, go that >> > > > route. Otherwise, it's V for me. >> > >> > > > Oh yeah, my back story is originally riding on old mountain bikes >> > > > (back when they were new) and cantilevers were king. So I've always >> > > > been able to set them up. Even with that, stil
Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Basically every "improvement" in bicycle components & design over the last two decades has been to make build ups faster. They may or may not improve things on the bike, usually neutral at best. Consider the following: V-brakes: check outboard BB bearings: check threadless headsets: check "compact" frames: check All these are fine and good, and don't hurt anything, but are really unnecessary. They let a factory put more bikes out and let the shops assemble them faster (with less customer complaints). The problem is that they're marketed as "improvements" which they aren't for the end user. And they make perfectly good parts and designs outdated, which bugs most of us here. My $.02 for the evening. On Mon, Nov 29, 2010 at 1:46 PM, williwoods wrote: > I have to disagree with some of the statements. > > V-brakes are just easier not to screw up during setup (fewer > adjustments, fewer things to setup wrong), thats really the only major > advantage, there is a small leverage benefit but canti's have better > modulation in general. > > If you setup Canti's properly and run the right brake pads and proper > short pull levers they will stop as well as any cable actuated rim > brake will maybe even as good as cable discs. I have bikes that run > Canti's that you can lock up the wheels with 1 finger. I have also > used V-brakes that sucked. > > The trick is older Canti's can be a pain to setup right, Im talking XT > cantilever brakes here or similar. Or really any kind that uses the > plain non-threaded post mount brake pads, except the 90's Avid > Cantilever brakes those are the best for setup ever. Most of it is > about geometry though. You have to have the Straddle cable setup right > and then have to have the brake pads hitting the rim at 90 degrees and > toed in, most of the poorly performing Canti brakes are not adjusted > to the correct geometry. Proper setup of Canti Brakes is a bit of a > lost art these days. > > > Nowadays the Tektro CR720 Cantilever Brakes are just about as easy to > setup as V brakes, mostly due to the fact that they use regular V- > brake style brake pads. The only thing more fiddly on these is setting > up the straddle cable correctly. The Pauls would also be just as easy > to setup right, or again any canti brake that uses the threaded V > brake brake pads. > > > anyway thats my 2 cents. > > Will > > > On Nov 29, 12:05 pm, RoadieRyan wrote: > > +1 on V brakes with the Tektro road levers. I have them set up with > > some Avid V brakes on my Handsome Devil. Overall I still prefer > > sidepulls for set up and adjustment but I like the V's over the > > Canti's. > > > > R > > > > On Nov 29, 12:07 am, Daniel M wrote: > > > > > > > > > Can I also chime in in favor of V-brakes with Tektro levers? I have > > > had my Hillborne since May built by Rivendell with Deore V-brakes, > > > Noodle bars, and Tektro levers and interruptors. The braking is > > > superb. Loaded touring with tent, sleeping bag, food, clothes, etc, > > > coming down paved roads at 35mph, in the drops, and literally only > > > needing ONE finger on each lever to moderate slowing/stopping > > > perfectly. I had a Bianchi Volpe with short-arm cantis and needed to > > > apply so much pressure in similar situations that my hands ached. > > > > > The long-arm cantis that Rivendell sells are doubtless much better > > > than the ones that came on my Volpe, but V-brakes are so powerful, so > > > simple, and so easy to adjust that I can't imagine using anything > > > else. > > > > > DM > > > > > On Nov 24, 3:28 am, EricP wrote: > > > > > > Another one who feels that the 113 BB length is good. > > > > > > Will chime in on the brakes - my SH presently has Tektro 720 > > > > cantilevers. The main winter project is switching it over to V > > > > brakes. The cantis are not bad. But overall the newer V brakes are > > > > so much nicer for stopping power. The only cantis, IMO, that come > > > > close are the Pauls. If price is no object, then, yeah, go that > > > > route. Otherwise, it's V for me. > > > > > > Oh yeah, my back story is originally riding on old mountain bikes > > > > (back when they were new) and cantilevers were king. So I've always > > > > been able to set them up. Even with that, still prefer them > > > > newfangled stoppythingies. > > > > > > Eric Platt > > > > St. Paul, MN > > > > > > On Nov 24, 12:52 am, charlie wrote: > > > > > > > If it doesn't rub its okay.. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA *...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would probably benefit more from improving their t
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
I have to disagree with some of the statements. V-brakes are just easier not to screw up during setup (fewer adjustments, fewer things to setup wrong), thats really the only major advantage, there is a small leverage benefit but canti's have better modulation in general. If you setup Canti's properly and run the right brake pads and proper short pull levers they will stop as well as any cable actuated rim brake will maybe even as good as cable discs. I have bikes that run Canti's that you can lock up the wheels with 1 finger. I have also used V-brakes that sucked. The trick is older Canti's can be a pain to setup right, Im talking XT cantilever brakes here or similar. Or really any kind that uses the plain non-threaded post mount brake pads, except the 90's Avid Cantilever brakes those are the best for setup ever. Most of it is about geometry though. You have to have the Straddle cable setup right and then have to have the brake pads hitting the rim at 90 degrees and toed in, most of the poorly performing Canti brakes are not adjusted to the correct geometry. Proper setup of Canti Brakes is a bit of a lost art these days. Nowadays the Tektro CR720 Cantilever Brakes are just about as easy to setup as V brakes, mostly due to the fact that they use regular V- brake style brake pads. The only thing more fiddly on these is setting up the straddle cable correctly. The Pauls would also be just as easy to setup right, or again any canti brake that uses the threaded V brake brake pads. anyway thats my 2 cents. Will On Nov 29, 12:05 pm, RoadieRyan wrote: > +1 on V brakes with the Tektro road levers. I have them set up with > some Avid V brakes on my Handsome Devil. Overall I still prefer > sidepulls for set up and adjustment but I like the V's over the > Canti's. > > R > > On Nov 29, 12:07 am, Daniel M wrote: > > > > > Can I also chime in in favor of V-brakes with Tektro levers? I have > > had my Hillborne since May built by Rivendell with Deore V-brakes, > > Noodle bars, and Tektro levers and interruptors. The braking is > > superb. Loaded touring with tent, sleeping bag, food, clothes, etc, > > coming down paved roads at 35mph, in the drops, and literally only > > needing ONE finger on each lever to moderate slowing/stopping > > perfectly. I had a Bianchi Volpe with short-arm cantis and needed to > > apply so much pressure in similar situations that my hands ached. > > > The long-arm cantis that Rivendell sells are doubtless much better > > than the ones that came on my Volpe, but V-brakes are so powerful, so > > simple, and so easy to adjust that I can't imagine using anything > > else. > > > DM > > > On Nov 24, 3:28 am, EricP wrote: > > > > Another one who feels that the 113 BB length is good. > > > > Will chime in on the brakes - my SH presently has Tektro 720 > > > cantilevers. The main winter project is switching it over to V > > > brakes. The cantis are not bad. But overall the newer V brakes are > > > so much nicer for stopping power. The only cantis, IMO, that come > > > close are the Pauls. If price is no object, then, yeah, go that > > > route. Otherwise, it's V for me. > > > > Oh yeah, my back story is originally riding on old mountain bikes > > > (back when they were new) and cantilevers were king. So I've always > > > been able to set them up. Even with that, still prefer them > > > newfangled stoppythingies. > > > > Eric Platt > > > St. Paul, MN > > > > On Nov 24, 12:52 am, charlie wrote: > > > > > If it doesn't rub its okay.. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
V brakes had their place in the evolution of braking IMO. For big knobby tired bikes( 2.3 inches+) they were better than poorly adjusted canti's. On those same MTB bike they have been replaced by disc brakes almost exclusively. A well adjusted good quality cantilever brake is just as powerful and is orders of magnitude better looking. The mismatched, unsymetrical arms of the V brake look out of place on a beautiful Rivendell bike. :-} ~Mike~ On Nov 29, 12:05 pm, RoadieRyan wrote: > +1 on V brakes with the Tektro road levers. I have them set up with > some Avid V brakes on my Handsome Devil. Overall I still prefer > sidepulls for set up and adjustment but I like the V's over the > Canti's. > > R > > On Nov 29, 12:07 am, Daniel M wrote: > > > > > Can I also chime in in favor of V-brakes with Tektro levers? I have > > had my Hillborne since May built by Rivendell with Deore V-brakes, > > Noodle bars, and Tektro levers and interruptors. The braking is > > superb. Loaded touring with tent, sleeping bag, food, clothes, etc, > > coming down paved roads at 35mph, in the drops, and literally only > > needing ONE finger on each lever to moderate slowing/stopping > > perfectly. I had a Bianchi Volpe with short-arm cantis and needed to > > apply so much pressure in similar situations that my hands ached. > > > The long-arm cantis that Rivendell sells are doubtless much better > > than the ones that came on my Volpe, but V-brakes are so powerful, so > > simple, and so easy to adjust that I can't imagine using anything > > else. > > > DM > > > On Nov 24, 3:28 am, EricP wrote: > > > > Another one who feels that the 113 BB length is good. > > > > Will chime in on the brakes - my SH presently has Tektro 720 > > > cantilevers. The main winter project is switching it over to V > > > brakes. The cantis are not bad. But overall the newer V brakes are > > > so much nicer for stopping power. The only cantis, IMO, that come > > > close are the Pauls. If price is no object, then, yeah, go that > > > route. Otherwise, it's V for me. > > > > Oh yeah, my back story is originally riding on old mountain bikes > > > (back when they were new) and cantilevers were king. So I've always > > > been able to set them up. Even with that, still prefer them > > > newfangled stoppythingies. > > > > Eric Platt > > > St. Paul, MN > > > > On Nov 24, 12:52 am, charlie wrote: > > > > > If it doesn't rub its okay..- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
+1 on V brakes with the Tektro road levers. I have them set up with some Avid V brakes on my Handsome Devil. Overall I still prefer sidepulls for set up and adjustment but I like the V's over the Canti's. R On Nov 29, 12:07 am, Daniel M wrote: > Can I also chime in in favor of V-brakes with Tektro levers? I have > had my Hillborne since May built by Rivendell with Deore V-brakes, > Noodle bars, and Tektro levers and interruptors. The braking is > superb. Loaded touring with tent, sleeping bag, food, clothes, etc, > coming down paved roads at 35mph, in the drops, and literally only > needing ONE finger on each lever to moderate slowing/stopping > perfectly. I had a Bianchi Volpe with short-arm cantis and needed to > apply so much pressure in similar situations that my hands ached. > > The long-arm cantis that Rivendell sells are doubtless much better > than the ones that came on my Volpe, but V-brakes are so powerful, so > simple, and so easy to adjust that I can't imagine using anything > else. > > DM > > On Nov 24, 3:28 am, EricP wrote: > > > Another one who feels that the 113 BB length is good. > > > Will chime in on the brakes - my SH presently has Tektro 720 > > cantilevers. The main winter project is switching it over to V > > brakes. The cantis are not bad. But overall the newer V brakes are > > so much nicer for stopping power. The only cantis, IMO, that come > > close are the Pauls. If price is no object, then, yeah, go that > > route. Otherwise, it's V for me. > > > Oh yeah, my back story is originally riding on old mountain bikes > > (back when they were new) and cantilevers were king. So I've always > > been able to set them up. Even with that, still prefer them > > newfangled stoppythingies. > > > Eric Platt > > St. Paul, MN > > > On Nov 24, 12:52 am, charlie wrote: > > > > If it doesn't rub its okay.. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Can I also chime in in favor of V-brakes with Tektro levers? I have had my Hillborne since May built by Rivendell with Deore V-brakes, Noodle bars, and Tektro levers and interruptors. The braking is superb. Loaded touring with tent, sleeping bag, food, clothes, etc, coming down paved roads at 35mph, in the drops, and literally only needing ONE finger on each lever to moderate slowing/stopping perfectly. I had a Bianchi Volpe with short-arm cantis and needed to apply so much pressure in similar situations that my hands ached. The long-arm cantis that Rivendell sells are doubtless much better than the ones that came on my Volpe, but V-brakes are so powerful, so simple, and so easy to adjust that I can't imagine using anything else. DM On Nov 24, 3:28 am, EricP wrote: > Another one who feels that the 113 BB length is good. > > Will chime in on the brakes - my SH presently has Tektro 720 > cantilevers. The main winter project is switching it over to V > brakes. The cantis are not bad. But overall the newer V brakes are > so much nicer for stopping power. The only cantis, IMO, that come > close are the Pauls. If price is no object, then, yeah, go that > route. Otherwise, it's V for me. > > Oh yeah, my back story is originally riding on old mountain bikes > (back when they were new) and cantilevers were king. So I've always > been able to set them up. Even with that, still prefer them > newfangled stoppythingies. > > Eric Platt > St. Paul, MN > > On Nov 24, 12:52 am, charlie wrote: > > > If it doesn't rub its okay.. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Another one who feels that the 113 BB length is good. Will chime in on the brakes - my SH presently has Tektro 720 cantilevers. The main winter project is switching it over to V brakes. The cantis are not bad. But overall the newer V brakes are so much nicer for stopping power. The only cantis, IMO, that come close are the Pauls. If price is no object, then, yeah, go that route. Otherwise, it's V for me. Oh yeah, my back story is originally riding on old mountain bikes (back when they were new) and cantilevers were king. So I've always been able to set them up. Even with that, still prefer them newfangled stoppythingies. Eric Platt St. Paul, MN On Nov 24, 12:52 am, charlie wrote: > If it doesn't rub its okay.. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
If it doesn't rub its okay.. On Nov 23, 8:36 pm, Minh wrote: > So i'll just keep this thread going as i pull the bike together, > headset went in ok, cockpit looks roughly ok. went to install the > cranks (an old suntour superbe pro double) and realized the 107 > installed BB would be too narrow, the 113 i popped in looks ok, but > the inside chainring is really close to the chainstay, there's day > light, maybe 1/4 inch, is that dangerously close? I guess i could go > to 117 but that only get's me 2mm, 122mm seems a little extreme... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
1/4" is about 6 mm, which is plenty. I have three bikes with either ring or crankarm or both within 2 mm of stay, with no problems yet. IIRC, Sheldon thought 2 mm the safe minimum. On Tue, Nov 23, 2010 at 9:36 PM, Minh wrote: > So i'll just keep this thread going as i pull the bike together, > headset went in ok, cockpit looks roughly ok. went to install the > cranks (an old suntour superbe pro double) and realized the 107 > installed BB would be too narrow, the 113 i popped in looks ok, but > the inside chainring is really close to the chainstay, there's day > light, maybe 1/4 inch, is that dangerously close? I guess i could go > to 117 but that only get's me 2mm, 122mm seems a little extreme... > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- Patrick Moore Albuquerque, NM For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Quarter inch gap is more than fine. On 11/23/2010 8:36 PM, Minh wrote: So i'll just keep this thread going as i pull the bike together, headset went in ok, cockpit looks roughly ok. went to install the cranks (an old suntour superbe pro double) and realized the 107 installed BB would be too narrow, the 113 i popped in looks ok, but the inside chainring is really close to the chainstay, there's day light, maybe 1/4 inch, is that dangerously close? I guess i could go to 117 but that only get's me 2mm, 122mm seems a little extreme... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Bruce, I agree on the PBH thing, i'm just shy of 6ft but my PBH is only 85 so right inline with you. I guess i have short legs compared to other people, good to know your 56 fits ok, makes me feel better once i have everything put together that i'm in the right ball park. Jim, to be fair the last time i used canti brakes was nearly 15 years ago (wierd how this particular technology came back). My biggest complaint then was adjustability so i really hope i'm more patient as i've gotten older. i know i could swap out levers + liner brakes for less then $100, but i'm grouchy about replacing a perfectly good set of dia-compe road levers, so i'll give the canti's another try... I would consider putting magura hyraulic rim brakes on this bike if i were running a compatible handlebar--i have them on my mt bike and despite the risk of ripping a line out the feel is amazing on those things, if i could find a set of the mythical HS66 magura road brake- set for a reasonable price i'd consider being one of the first, though running the oil-lines on the top tube would not be tidy. I really wish i had some time this week to get this bike rideable but looks like it will be middle december so only dreaming until then... . On Nov 23, 1:19 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: > I'm with you on being less than enchanted with cantilever brakes. > "Spirit of the group" notwithstanding (it's your bike, after all), the > Magura hydraulic rim brakes are nice, but may be limiting in terms of > what kind of handlebar bar you can use with them. My choice would be > to use v-brakes (aka linear-pull). Even the cheapest Tektro or Shimano > v-brakes are a HUGE improvement over the fanciest cantilevers in terms > of stopping power and ease of adjustment. And now Tektro and Cane > Creek both have drop-bar levers that work with v-brakes. Also, I hear > (but have not tried personally) that the latest series of Shimano STI > levers will pull enough cable to adequately operate v-brakes (I've > heard of new stock Santana tandems set up like that). > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Regarding brakes--you might check out the new TRP CX-9 v-brakes (http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1040&catid=185). They are a short-armed v-brake designed to work with road levers. I have some of the Tektro road levers designed for regular v-brakes, and am not particularly impressed. The shape isn't great, and the leverage ratio doesn't seem quite right. -Erik -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
So i'll just keep this thread going as i pull the bike together, headset went in ok, cockpit looks roughly ok. went to install the cranks (an old suntour superbe pro double) and realized the 107 installed BB would be too narrow, the 113 i popped in looks ok, but the inside chainring is really close to the chainstay, there's day light, maybe 1/4 inch, is that dangerously close? I guess i could go to 117 but that only get's me 2mm, 122mm seems a little extreme... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
On Tue, Nov 23, 2010 at 11:19 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: > I'm with you on being less than enchanted with cantilever brakes. > "Spirit of the group" notwithstanding (it's your bike, after all), the > Magura hydraulic rim brakes are nice, but may be limiting in terms of > what kind of handlebar bar you can use with them. My choice would be > to use v-brakes (aka linear-pull). Even the cheapest Tektro or Shimano > v-brakes are a HUGE improvement over the fanciest cantilevers in terms > of stopping power and ease of adjustment. And now Tektro and Cane > Creek both have drop-bar levers that work with v-brakes. I agree with the niceness of the Cane Creek levers for Vs and mech disks, but disagree about cantis. I am a long-time canti hater, but the wide profile IRCs on my erstwhile Sam Hill worked as well as any brakes I've used. Actually, the front did, the rear was better than many but not as good as a V or mech disk. So stetup or design, dunno, but there are exceptions to the (my experience only) horrible pattern. Installed by Riv, of course. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
I'm with you on being less than enchanted with cantilever brakes. "Spirit of the group" notwithstanding (it's your bike, after all), the Magura hydraulic rim brakes are nice, but may be limiting in terms of what kind of handlebar bar you can use with them. My choice would be to use v-brakes (aka linear-pull). Even the cheapest Tektro or Shimano v-brakes are a HUGE improvement over the fanciest cantilevers in terms of stopping power and ease of adjustment. And now Tektro and Cane Creek both have drop-bar levers that work with v-brakes. Also, I hear (but have not tried personally) that the latest series of Shimano STI levers will pull enough cable to adequately operate v-brakes (I've heard of new stock Santana tandems set up like that). On Nov 22, 3:51 pm, Minh wrote: > First i want to say thanks to everyone on this group, i've been a Riv > member for a long time but away for the last few years. I recently > looked at my stable of bikes and realized i didn't actually want to > ride any of them for a long period of time so i decided to solve > that. A new go-fast bike was not that appealing to me and the new > Rivendell's like the AHH or Roadeo were more then i wanted to spend. > > The Hillborne looked like a good idea as i wanted to put a rack and > fenders on mine, the canti brakes were a slight turn-off (i gave up > canti's like 10 years ago!) But i got over this too, as an aside is > anyone running the old magura hydraulic brakes on an Hillborne or > Atlantis? I know this is counter to the spirit of the group but > curious if anyone has done this. I have them on a mt bike only. > > Anyway i've been lurking for awhile hoping to pick up a Rambouillet, > Atlantis, Bleriot etc but nothing in my size or i was too late. I > finally picked up a Hillborne on ebay last week (yes the orange single > tt one in the box on ebay last week--sorry if you were bidding against > me, for the record his reserve price was almost his BIN price). I > just got it today and i realized that this is actually the first "new" > bike i've had to build up from scratch ever and it's by far the nicest > one, the thought of putting it into the work-stand for the first time > feels a little strange. > > One thing i will say, i know what Grant means about not quite as nice > as AHH finish but perfectly fine nonetheless, there are some less then > perfect paint areas (one spot on the top tube looks like they got some > sediment in the paint, it's actually quite bad) it's the kind of > thing that bothers you at first but then you realize there are a lot > worse things in life but since i plan on riding this bike it's not the > end of the world for me, the sparkly paint is nice. > > Sorry if there is not much point to this post, just excited to build > up my first Rivendell bicycle. I'm a little worried about the size i > got (went with 56, scared of the 60 and my PBH is low relative to > height), but i'll see once i get wheels etc on the bike and whether i > need to swap out stems etc. > > Now on to the important decisions like what color bar tape -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
BB, thanks, i know i just need to chip some paint and get over it :) I was thinking of running liner pull, but i'm happy with the road brake levers i have at the moment and don't want to use a cable adaptor. i actually have an ONZA HOLA sitting in a box looking for something to do, i need to find a new home for that. On Nov 23, 10:08 am, Montclair BobbyB wrote: > I never imagined I'd say this, but I'm REALLY pleased with my first > ever set of linear pull (aka "V-brakes") on my Bombadil. For years I > was a hydraulic disc-brake snob, thumbing my nose at all other brakes > (in general), and any rim brakes that weren't cantis (Boy, what a > maroon!!!). I run Avid Single Digit SLs with NOS (oversized Suntour > XC 9000) levers on the Bombadil, and I can brake with 1 finger... the > touch is so light, I'm still amazed. > > Enjoy the Sam... go get it dirty, nick it in a few places, and just > love life... > > Peace, > BB > > On Nov 23, 2:30 am, Earl Grey wrote: > > > > > > > > > I actually much prefer a cable hanger from the seatpost bolt (The WF > > Sams have a brazed on cable stop). However, the cable hanger included > > with my Sam didn't really fit, so I got the longer Surly with built in > > barrel adjuster. Very nice, though the new Nitto cable hanger Riv > > sells looks even nicer (but no barrel adjuster). > > > Enjoy. > > > Gernot > > > On Nov 23, 12:04 pm, Minh wrote: > > > > thanks guys, wierd duh moment for me tonite, for some reason it never > > > registered to me that i could run side-pulls or canti's on this. I > > > stared at the frame tonite for a few minutes wondering why grant built > > > a canti bike without the cable stop in the rear before i realized that > > > i could use side-pulls if i wanted to, i guess this is one of the > > > earlier taiwan frames. i think i'll still run cantis as i'd rather > > > use the studs then leave them unused. > > > > i'm a little paranoid about the exposed brake cable on the top tube, > > > don't worry or run housing in the center? > > > > On Nov 22, 11:24 pm, cyclotourist wrote: > > > > > Those orange Sams are a pretty nice gateway drug... > > > > > On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 7:52 PM, rcnute wrote: > > > > > Nice to score the orange! Soon you'll ride it so much you'll forget > > > > > about the paint. I vote blue bar tape. > > > > > > Ryan > > > > > > On Nov 22, 1:51 pm, Minh wrote: > > > > > > First i want to say thanks to everyone on this group, i've been a > > > > > > Riv > > > > > > member for a long time but away for the last few years. I recently > > > > > > looked at my stable of bikes and realized i didn't actually want to > > > > > > ride any of them for a long period of time so i decided to solve > > > > > > that. A new go-fast bike was not that appealing to me and the new > > > > > > Rivendell's like the AHH or Roadeo were more then i wanted to spend. > > > > > > > The Hillborne looked like a good idea as i wanted to put a rack and > > > > > > fenders on mine, the canti brakes were a slight turn-off (i gave up > > > > > > canti's like 10 years ago!) But i got over this too, as an aside is > > > > > > anyone running the old magura hydraulic brakes on an Hillborne or > > > > > > Atlantis? I know this is counter to the spirit of the group but > > > > > > curious if anyone has done this. I have them on a mt bike only. > > > > > > > Anyway i've been lurking for awhile hoping to pick up a Rambouillet, > > > > > > Atlantis, Bleriot etc but nothing in my size or i was too late. I > > > > > > finally picked up a Hillborne on ebay last week (yes the orange > > > > > > single > > > > > > tt one in the box on ebay last week--sorry if you were bidding > > > > > > against > > > > > > me, for the record his reserve price was almost his BIN price). I > > > > > > just got it today and i realized that this is actually the first > > > > > > "new" > > > > > > bike i've had to build up from scratch ever and it's by far the > > > > > > nicest > > > > > > one, the thought of putting it into the work-stand for the first > > > > > > time > > > > > > feels a little strange. > > > > > > > One thing i will say, i know what Grant means about not quite as > > > > > > nice > > > > > > as AHH finish but perfectly fine nonetheless, there are some less > > > > > > then > > > > > > perfect paint areas (one spot on the top tube looks like they got > > > > > > some > > > > > > sediment in the paint, it's actually quite bad) it's the kind of > > > > > > thing that bothers you at first but then you realize there are a lot > > > > > > worse things in life but since i plan on riding this bike it's not > > > > > > the > > > > > > end of the world for me, the sparkly paint is nice. > > > > > > > Sorry if there is not much point to this post, just excited to build > > > > > > up my first Rivendell bicycle. I'm a little worried about the size > > > > > > i > > > > > > got (went with 56, scared of the 60 and my PBH is low relative to > > > > > > height), bu
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
I never imagined I'd say this, but I'm REALLY pleased with my first ever set of linear pull (aka "V-brakes") on my Bombadil. For years I was a hydraulic disc-brake snob, thumbing my nose at all other brakes (in general), and any rim brakes that weren't cantis (Boy, what a maroon!!!). I run Avid Single Digit SLs with NOS (oversized Suntour XC 9000) levers on the Bombadil, and I can brake with 1 finger... the touch is so light, I'm still amazed. Enjoy the Sam... go get it dirty, nick it in a few places, and just love life... Peace, BB On Nov 23, 2:30 am, Earl Grey wrote: > I actually much prefer a cable hanger from the seatpost bolt (The WF > Sams have a brazed on cable stop). However, the cable hanger included > with my Sam didn't really fit, so I got the longer Surly with built in > barrel adjuster. Very nice, though the new Nitto cable hanger Riv > sells looks even nicer (but no barrel adjuster). > > Enjoy. > > Gernot > > On Nov 23, 12:04 pm, Minh wrote: > > > > > thanks guys, wierd duh moment for me tonite, for some reason it never > > registered to me that i could run side-pulls or canti's on this. I > > stared at the frame tonite for a few minutes wondering why grant built > > a canti bike without the cable stop in the rear before i realized that > > i could use side-pulls if i wanted to, i guess this is one of the > > earlier taiwan frames. i think i'll still run cantis as i'd rather > > use the studs then leave them unused. > > > i'm a little paranoid about the exposed brake cable on the top tube, > > don't worry or run housing in the center? > > > On Nov 22, 11:24 pm, cyclotourist wrote: > > > > Those orange Sams are a pretty nice gateway drug... > > > > On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 7:52 PM, rcnute wrote: > > > > Nice to score the orange! Soon you'll ride it so much you'll forget > > > > about the paint. I vote blue bar tape. > > > > > Ryan > > > > > On Nov 22, 1:51 pm, Minh wrote: > > > > > First i want to say thanks to everyone on this group, i've been a Riv > > > > > member for a long time but away for the last few years. I recently > > > > > looked at my stable of bikes and realized i didn't actually want to > > > > > ride any of them for a long period of time so i decided to solve > > > > > that. A new go-fast bike was not that appealing to me and the new > > > > > Rivendell's like the AHH or Roadeo were more then i wanted to spend. > > > > > > The Hillborne looked like a good idea as i wanted to put a rack and > > > > > fenders on mine, the canti brakes were a slight turn-off (i gave up > > > > > canti's like 10 years ago!) But i got over this too, as an aside is > > > > > anyone running the old magura hydraulic brakes on an Hillborne or > > > > > Atlantis? I know this is counter to the spirit of the group but > > > > > curious if anyone has done this. I have them on a mt bike only. > > > > > > Anyway i've been lurking for awhile hoping to pick up a Rambouillet, > > > > > Atlantis, Bleriot etc but nothing in my size or i was too late. I > > > > > finally picked up a Hillborne on ebay last week (yes the orange single > > > > > tt one in the box on ebay last week--sorry if you were bidding against > > > > > me, for the record his reserve price was almost his BIN price). I > > > > > just got it today and i realized that this is actually the first "new" > > > > > bike i've had to build up from scratch ever and it's by far the nicest > > > > > one, the thought of putting it into the work-stand for the first time > > > > > feels a little strange. > > > > > > One thing i will say, i know what Grant means about not quite as nice > > > > > as AHH finish but perfectly fine nonetheless, there are some less then > > > > > perfect paint areas (one spot on the top tube looks like they got some > > > > > sediment in the paint, it's actually quite bad) it's the kind of > > > > > thing that bothers you at first but then you realize there are a lot > > > > > worse things in life but since i plan on riding this bike it's not the > > > > > end of the world for me, the sparkly paint is nice. > > > > > > Sorry if there is not much point to this post, just excited to build > > > > > up my first Rivendell bicycle. I'm a little worried about the size i > > > > > got (went with 56, scared of the 60 and my PBH is low relative to > > > > > height), but i'll see once i get wheels etc on the bike and whether i > > > > > need to swap out stems etc. > > > > > > Now on to the important decisions like what color bar tape > > > > > -- > > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google > > > > Groups > > > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > > > e...@googlegroups.com> > > > > . > > > > For more options, visit this group at > > > >http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > > > -- > >
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
I actually much prefer a cable hanger from the seatpost bolt (The WF Sams have a brazed on cable stop). However, the cable hanger included with my Sam didn't really fit, so I got the longer Surly with built in barrel adjuster. Very nice, though the new Nitto cable hanger Riv sells looks even nicer (but no barrel adjuster). Enjoy. Gernot On Nov 23, 12:04 pm, Minh wrote: > thanks guys, wierd duh moment for me tonite, for some reason it never > registered to me that i could run side-pulls or canti's on this. I > stared at the frame tonite for a few minutes wondering why grant built > a canti bike without the cable stop in the rear before i realized that > i could use side-pulls if i wanted to, i guess this is one of the > earlier taiwan frames. i think i'll still run cantis as i'd rather > use the studs then leave them unused. > > i'm a little paranoid about the exposed brake cable on the top tube, > don't worry or run housing in the center? > > On Nov 22, 11:24 pm, cyclotourist wrote: > > > > > Those orange Sams are a pretty nice gateway drug... > > > On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 7:52 PM, rcnute wrote: > > > Nice to score the orange! Soon you'll ride it so much you'll forget > > > about the paint. I vote blue bar tape. > > > > Ryan > > > > On Nov 22, 1:51 pm, Minh wrote: > > > > First i want to say thanks to everyone on this group, i've been a Riv > > > > member for a long time but away for the last few years. I recently > > > > looked at my stable of bikes and realized i didn't actually want to > > > > ride any of them for a long period of time so i decided to solve > > > > that. A new go-fast bike was not that appealing to me and the new > > > > Rivendell's like the AHH or Roadeo were more then i wanted to spend. > > > > > The Hillborne looked like a good idea as i wanted to put a rack and > > > > fenders on mine, the canti brakes were a slight turn-off (i gave up > > > > canti's like 10 years ago!) But i got over this too, as an aside is > > > > anyone running the old magura hydraulic brakes on an Hillborne or > > > > Atlantis? I know this is counter to the spirit of the group but > > > > curious if anyone has done this. I have them on a mt bike only. > > > > > Anyway i've been lurking for awhile hoping to pick up a Rambouillet, > > > > Atlantis, Bleriot etc but nothing in my size or i was too late. I > > > > finally picked up a Hillborne on ebay last week (yes the orange single > > > > tt one in the box on ebay last week--sorry if you were bidding against > > > > me, for the record his reserve price was almost his BIN price). I > > > > just got it today and i realized that this is actually the first "new" > > > > bike i've had to build up from scratch ever and it's by far the nicest > > > > one, the thought of putting it into the work-stand for the first time > > > > feels a little strange. > > > > > One thing i will say, i know what Grant means about not quite as nice > > > > as AHH finish but perfectly fine nonetheless, there are some less then > > > > perfect paint areas (one spot on the top tube looks like they got some > > > > sediment in the paint, it's actually quite bad) it's the kind of > > > > thing that bothers you at first but then you realize there are a lot > > > > worse things in life but since i plan on riding this bike it's not the > > > > end of the world for me, the sparkly paint is nice. > > > > > Sorry if there is not much point to this post, just excited to build > > > > up my first Rivendell bicycle. I'm a little worried about the size i > > > > got (went with 56, scared of the 60 and my PBH is low relative to > > > > height), but i'll see once i get wheels etc on the bike and whether i > > > > need to swap out stems etc. > > > > > Now on to the important decisions like what color bar tape > > > > -- > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > > e...@googlegroups.com> > > > . > > > For more options, visit this group at > > >http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > > -- > > Cheers, > > David > > Redlands, CA > > > *...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would > > probably benefit more from > > improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
you can use those little rubber donuts to keep the cable away from the frame. Glad you are haapy with the new Hillborne. That was my 1st too. I've since sold it and have a green Rambuillet. I was very happy with the fit and ride of the Sam, not as much with the expanded top tube "look". I do miss the tire clearance. ~Mike~ On Nov 22, 9:22 pm, cyclotourist wrote: > Don't worry! :-) > > Although Jagwire has a nice cable kit with a sheath for the exposed cable. > > > > > > On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 9:04 PM, Minh wrote: > > thanks guys, wierd duh moment for me tonite, for some reason it never > > registered to me that i could run side-pulls or canti's on this. I > > stared at the frame tonite for a few minutes wondering why grant built > > a canti bike without the cable stop in the rear before i realized that > > i could use side-pulls if i wanted to, i guess this is one of the > > earlier taiwan frames. i think i'll still run cantis as i'd rather > > use the studs then leave them unused. > > > i'm a little paranoid about the exposed brake cable on the top tube, > > don't worry or run housing in the center? > > > On Nov 22, 11:24 pm, cyclotourist wrote: > > > Those orange Sams are a pretty nice gateway drug... > > > > On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 7:52 PM, rcnute wrote: > > > > Nice to score the orange! Soon you'll ride it so much you'll forget > > > > about the paint. I vote blue bar tape. > > > > > Ryan > > > > > On Nov 22, 1:51 pm, Minh wrote: > > > > > First i want to say thanks to everyone on this group, i've been a Riv > > > > > member for a long time but away for the last few years. I recently > > > > > looked at my stable of bikes and realized i didn't actually want to > > > > > ride any of them for a long period of time so i decided to solve > > > > > that. A new go-fast bike was not that appealing to me and the new > > > > > Rivendell's like the AHH or Roadeo were more then i wanted to spend. > > > > > > The Hillborne looked like a good idea as i wanted to put a rack and > > > > > fenders on mine, the canti brakes were a slight turn-off (i gave up > > > > > canti's like 10 years ago!) But i got over this too, as an aside is > > > > > anyone running the old magura hydraulic brakes on an Hillborne or > > > > > Atlantis? I know this is counter to the spirit of the group but > > > > > curious if anyone has done this. I have them on a mt bike only. > > > > > > Anyway i've been lurking for awhile hoping to pick up a Rambouillet, > > > > > Atlantis, Bleriot etc but nothing in my size or i was too late. I > > > > > finally picked up a Hillborne on ebay last week (yes the orange > > single > > > > > tt one in the box on ebay last week--sorry if you were bidding > > against > > > > > me, for the record his reserve price was almost his BIN price). I > > > > > just got it today and i realized that this is actually the first > > "new" > > > > > bike i've had to build up from scratch ever and it's by far the > > nicest > > > > > one, the thought of putting it into the work-stand for the first time > > > > > feels a little strange. > > > > > > One thing i will say, i know what Grant means about not quite as nice > > > > > as AHH finish but perfectly fine nonetheless, there are some less > > then > > > > > perfect paint areas (one spot on the top tube looks like they got > > some > > > > > sediment in the paint, it's actually quite bad) it's the kind of > > > > > thing that bothers you at first but then you realize there are a lot > > > > > worse things in life but since i plan on riding this bike it's not > > the > > > > > end of the world for me, the sparkly paint is nice. > > > > > > Sorry if there is not much point to this post, just excited to build > > > > > up my first Rivendell bicycle. I'm a little worried about the size i > > > > > got (went with 56, scared of the 60 and my PBH is low relative to > > > > > height), but i'll see once i get wheels etc on the bike and whether i > > > > > need to swap out stems etc. > > > > > > Now on to the important decisions like what color bar tape > > > > > -- > > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google > > Groups > > > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com > > . > > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > e...@googlegroups.com> > > > > . > > > > For more options, visit this group at > > > >http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > > > -- > > > Cheers, > > > David > > > Redlands, CA > > > > *...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would > > > probably benefit more from > > > improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > > To unsubscribe fro
Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Don't worry! :-) Although Jagwire has a nice cable kit with a sheath for the exposed cable. On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 9:04 PM, Minh wrote: > thanks guys, wierd duh moment for me tonite, for some reason it never > registered to me that i could run side-pulls or canti's on this. I > stared at the frame tonite for a few minutes wondering why grant built > a canti bike without the cable stop in the rear before i realized that > i could use side-pulls if i wanted to, i guess this is one of the > earlier taiwan frames. i think i'll still run cantis as i'd rather > use the studs then leave them unused. > > i'm a little paranoid about the exposed brake cable on the top tube, > don't worry or run housing in the center? > > On Nov 22, 11:24 pm, cyclotourist wrote: > > Those orange Sams are a pretty nice gateway drug... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 7:52 PM, rcnute wrote: > > > Nice to score the orange! Soon you'll ride it so much you'll forget > > > about the paint. I vote blue bar tape. > > > > > Ryan > > > > > On Nov 22, 1:51 pm, Minh wrote: > > > > First i want to say thanks to everyone on this group, i've been a Riv > > > > member for a long time but away for the last few years. I recently > > > > looked at my stable of bikes and realized i didn't actually want to > > > > ride any of them for a long period of time so i decided to solve > > > > that. A new go-fast bike was not that appealing to me and the new > > > > Rivendell's like the AHH or Roadeo were more then i wanted to spend. > > > > > > The Hillborne looked like a good idea as i wanted to put a rack and > > > > fenders on mine, the canti brakes were a slight turn-off (i gave up > > > > canti's like 10 years ago!) But i got over this too, as an aside is > > > > anyone running the old magura hydraulic brakes on an Hillborne or > > > > Atlantis? I know this is counter to the spirit of the group but > > > > curious if anyone has done this. I have them on a mt bike only. > > > > > > Anyway i've been lurking for awhile hoping to pick up a Rambouillet, > > > > Atlantis, Bleriot etc but nothing in my size or i was too late. I > > > > finally picked up a Hillborne on ebay last week (yes the orange > single > > > > tt one in the box on ebay last week--sorry if you were bidding > against > > > > me, for the record his reserve price was almost his BIN price). I > > > > just got it today and i realized that this is actually the first > "new" > > > > bike i've had to build up from scratch ever and it's by far the > nicest > > > > one, the thought of putting it into the work-stand for the first time > > > > feels a little strange. > > > > > > One thing i will say, i know what Grant means about not quite as nice > > > > as AHH finish but perfectly fine nonetheless, there are some less > then > > > > perfect paint areas (one spot on the top tube looks like they got > some > > > > sediment in the paint, it's actually quite bad) it's the kind of > > > > thing that bothers you at first but then you realize there are a lot > > > > worse things in life but since i plan on riding this bike it's not > the > > > > end of the world for me, the sparkly paint is nice. > > > > > > Sorry if there is not much point to this post, just excited to build > > > > up my first Rivendell bicycle. I'm a little worried about the size i > > > > got (went with 56, scared of the 60 and my PBH is low relative to > > > > height), but i'll see once i get wheels etc on the bike and whether i > > > > need to swap out stems etc. > > > > > > Now on to the important decisions like what color bar tape > > > > > -- > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google > Groups > > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com > . > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com e...@googlegroups.com> > > > . > > > For more options, visit this group at > > >http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > > > -- > > Cheers, > > David > > Redlands, CA > > > > *...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would > > probably benefit more from > > improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA *...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would probably benefit more from improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To po
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
thanks guys, wierd duh moment for me tonite, for some reason it never registered to me that i could run side-pulls or canti's on this. I stared at the frame tonite for a few minutes wondering why grant built a canti bike without the cable stop in the rear before i realized that i could use side-pulls if i wanted to, i guess this is one of the earlier taiwan frames. i think i'll still run cantis as i'd rather use the studs then leave them unused. i'm a little paranoid about the exposed brake cable on the top tube, don't worry or run housing in the center? On Nov 22, 11:24 pm, cyclotourist wrote: > Those orange Sams are a pretty nice gateway drug... > > > > > > > > > > On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 7:52 PM, rcnute wrote: > > Nice to score the orange! Soon you'll ride it so much you'll forget > > about the paint. I vote blue bar tape. > > > Ryan > > > On Nov 22, 1:51 pm, Minh wrote: > > > First i want to say thanks to everyone on this group, i've been a Riv > > > member for a long time but away for the last few years. I recently > > > looked at my stable of bikes and realized i didn't actually want to > > > ride any of them for a long period of time so i decided to solve > > > that. A new go-fast bike was not that appealing to me and the new > > > Rivendell's like the AHH or Roadeo were more then i wanted to spend. > > > > The Hillborne looked like a good idea as i wanted to put a rack and > > > fenders on mine, the canti brakes were a slight turn-off (i gave up > > > canti's like 10 years ago!) But i got over this too, as an aside is > > > anyone running the old magura hydraulic brakes on an Hillborne or > > > Atlantis? I know this is counter to the spirit of the group but > > > curious if anyone has done this. I have them on a mt bike only. > > > > Anyway i've been lurking for awhile hoping to pick up a Rambouillet, > > > Atlantis, Bleriot etc but nothing in my size or i was too late. I > > > finally picked up a Hillborne on ebay last week (yes the orange single > > > tt one in the box on ebay last week--sorry if you were bidding against > > > me, for the record his reserve price was almost his BIN price). I > > > just got it today and i realized that this is actually the first "new" > > > bike i've had to build up from scratch ever and it's by far the nicest > > > one, the thought of putting it into the work-stand for the first time > > > feels a little strange. > > > > One thing i will say, i know what Grant means about not quite as nice > > > as AHH finish but perfectly fine nonetheless, there are some less then > > > perfect paint areas (one spot on the top tube looks like they got some > > > sediment in the paint, it's actually quite bad) it's the kind of > > > thing that bothers you at first but then you realize there are a lot > > > worse things in life but since i plan on riding this bike it's not the > > > end of the world for me, the sparkly paint is nice. > > > > Sorry if there is not much point to this post, just excited to build > > > up my first Rivendell bicycle. I'm a little worried about the size i > > > got (went with 56, scared of the 60 and my PBH is low relative to > > > height), but i'll see once i get wheels etc on the bike and whether i > > > need to swap out stems etc. > > > > Now on to the important decisions like what color bar tape > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > e...@googlegroups.com> > > . > > For more options, visit this group at > >http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- > Cheers, > David > Redlands, CA > > *...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would > probably benefit more from > improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
I'd not worry about trying put a disc brake on the bike. They stop just fine with either a canti or liniar brake. On Tue, Nov 23, 2010 at 12:24 PM, cyclotourist wrote: > Those orange Sams are a pretty nice gateway drug... > > > On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 7:52 PM, rcnute wrote: > >> Nice to score the orange! Soon you'll ride it so much you'll forget >> about the paint. I vote blue bar tape. >> >> Ryan >> >> On Nov 22, 1:51 pm, Minh wrote: >> > First i want to say thanks to everyone on this group, i've been a Riv >> > member for a long time but away for the last few years. I recently >> > looked at my stable of bikes and realized i didn't actually want to >> > ride any of them for a long period of time so i decided to solve >> > that. A new go-fast bike was not that appealing to me and the new >> > Rivendell's like the AHH or Roadeo were more then i wanted to spend. >> > >> > The Hillborne looked like a good idea as i wanted to put a rack and >> > fenders on mine, the canti brakes were a slight turn-off (i gave up >> > canti's like 10 years ago!) But i got over this too, as an aside is >> > anyone running the old magura hydraulic brakes on an Hillborne or >> > Atlantis? I know this is counter to the spirit of the group but >> > curious if anyone has done this. I have them on a mt bike only. >> > >> > Anyway i've been lurking for awhile hoping to pick up a Rambouillet, >> > Atlantis, Bleriot etc but nothing in my size or i was too late. I >> > finally picked up a Hillborne on ebay last week (yes the orange single >> > tt one in the box on ebay last week--sorry if you were bidding against >> > me, for the record his reserve price was almost his BIN price). I >> > just got it today and i realized that this is actually the first "new" >> > bike i've had to build up from scratch ever and it's by far the nicest >> > one, the thought of putting it into the work-stand for the first time >> > feels a little strange. >> > >> > One thing i will say, i know what Grant means about not quite as nice >> > as AHH finish but perfectly fine nonetheless, there are some less then >> > perfect paint areas (one spot on the top tube looks like they got some >> > sediment in the paint, it's actually quite bad) it's the kind of >> > thing that bothers you at first but then you realize there are a lot >> > worse things in life but since i plan on riding this bike it's not the >> > end of the world for me, the sparkly paint is nice. >> > >> > Sorry if there is not much point to this post, just excited to build >> > up my first Rivendell bicycle. I'm a little worried about the size i >> > got (went with 56, scared of the 60 and my PBH is low relative to >> > height), but i'll see once i get wheels etc on the bike and whether i >> > need to swap out stems etc. >> > >> > Now on to the important decisions like what color bar tape >> >> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >> rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com >> . >> For more options, visit this group at >> http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. >> >> > > > -- > Cheers, > David > Redlands, CA > > *...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would > probably benefit more from > improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > -- Fai Mao The Blogger who sometimes responds to comments -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Those orange Sams are a pretty nice gateway drug... On Mon, Nov 22, 2010 at 7:52 PM, rcnute wrote: > Nice to score the orange! Soon you'll ride it so much you'll forget > about the paint. I vote blue bar tape. > > Ryan > > On Nov 22, 1:51 pm, Minh wrote: > > First i want to say thanks to everyone on this group, i've been a Riv > > member for a long time but away for the last few years. I recently > > looked at my stable of bikes and realized i didn't actually want to > > ride any of them for a long period of time so i decided to solve > > that. A new go-fast bike was not that appealing to me and the new > > Rivendell's like the AHH or Roadeo were more then i wanted to spend. > > > > The Hillborne looked like a good idea as i wanted to put a rack and > > fenders on mine, the canti brakes were a slight turn-off (i gave up > > canti's like 10 years ago!) But i got over this too, as an aside is > > anyone running the old magura hydraulic brakes on an Hillborne or > > Atlantis? I know this is counter to the spirit of the group but > > curious if anyone has done this. I have them on a mt bike only. > > > > Anyway i've been lurking for awhile hoping to pick up a Rambouillet, > > Atlantis, Bleriot etc but nothing in my size or i was too late. I > > finally picked up a Hillborne on ebay last week (yes the orange single > > tt one in the box on ebay last week--sorry if you were bidding against > > me, for the record his reserve price was almost his BIN price). I > > just got it today and i realized that this is actually the first "new" > > bike i've had to build up from scratch ever and it's by far the nicest > > one, the thought of putting it into the work-stand for the first time > > feels a little strange. > > > > One thing i will say, i know what Grant means about not quite as nice > > as AHH finish but perfectly fine nonetheless, there are some less then > > perfect paint areas (one spot on the top tube looks like they got some > > sediment in the paint, it's actually quite bad) it's the kind of > > thing that bothers you at first but then you realize there are a lot > > worse things in life but since i plan on riding this bike it's not the > > end of the world for me, the sparkly paint is nice. > > > > Sorry if there is not much point to this post, just excited to build > > up my first Rivendell bicycle. I'm a little worried about the size i > > got (went with 56, scared of the 60 and my PBH is low relative to > > height), but i'll see once i get wheels etc on the bike and whether i > > need to swap out stems etc. > > > > Now on to the important decisions like what color bar tape > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > . > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. > > -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA *...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would probably benefit more from improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Nice to score the orange! Soon you'll ride it so much you'll forget about the paint. I vote blue bar tape. Ryan On Nov 22, 1:51 pm, Minh wrote: > First i want to say thanks to everyone on this group, i've been a Riv > member for a long time but away for the last few years. I recently > looked at my stable of bikes and realized i didn't actually want to > ride any of them for a long period of time so i decided to solve > that. A new go-fast bike was not that appealing to me and the new > Rivendell's like the AHH or Roadeo were more then i wanted to spend. > > The Hillborne looked like a good idea as i wanted to put a rack and > fenders on mine, the canti brakes were a slight turn-off (i gave up > canti's like 10 years ago!) But i got over this too, as an aside is > anyone running the old magura hydraulic brakes on an Hillborne or > Atlantis? I know this is counter to the spirit of the group but > curious if anyone has done this. I have them on a mt bike only. > > Anyway i've been lurking for awhile hoping to pick up a Rambouillet, > Atlantis, Bleriot etc but nothing in my size or i was too late. I > finally picked up a Hillborne on ebay last week (yes the orange single > tt one in the box on ebay last week--sorry if you were bidding against > me, for the record his reserve price was almost his BIN price). I > just got it today and i realized that this is actually the first "new" > bike i've had to build up from scratch ever and it's by far the nicest > one, the thought of putting it into the work-stand for the first time > feels a little strange. > > One thing i will say, i know what Grant means about not quite as nice > as AHH finish but perfectly fine nonetheless, there are some less then > perfect paint areas (one spot on the top tube looks like they got some > sediment in the paint, it's actually quite bad) it's the kind of > thing that bothers you at first but then you realize there are a lot > worse things in life but since i plan on riding this bike it's not the > end of the world for me, the sparkly paint is nice. > > Sorry if there is not much point to this post, just excited to build > up my first Rivendell bicycle. I'm a little worried about the size i > got (went with 56, scared of the 60 and my PBH is low relative to > height), but i'll see once i get wheels etc on the bike and whether i > need to swap out stems etc. > > Now on to the important decisions like what color bar tape -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
