It won't take more than 30 minutes to remove the crank, lightly sand
and clean and apply paint or nail polish to the area; you could do it
in 10 minutes, in fact, if you were familiar with the tools and
operation.
A crank puller is a very useful home mechanic's tool; I'd say spend
$20 and do the job right.
As for front derailleur adjustment, yes, it can be tricky: you have to
get the cage's angle and height as well as the stop screws' position
just right. But it can be done; this is, frankly, more of a job than
removing the crank.
Review Sheldon:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html (rather general)
and http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
Not to mention
http://www.cyclingforums.com/forum/thread/355156/chain-keeps-falling-off-little-ring
On Tue, May 24, 2011 at 7:48 PM, Joe S wrote:
> I've had my Atlantis about 10 months and love it. I ride it nearly
> every day, usually on my 30 mile round-trip commute to and from work.
>
> When I first rode the bike, the low stop setting on the front
> derailleur was not set correctly. It took throwing the chain off onto
> the chain stay with minor jamming a few times before I realized what
> was happening and the paint on the chain stay was taken off in a swath
> of about 1/2 inch. I haven't done anything to it other than to keep
> checking (duh!) but now after a few weeks of bad timing and riding in
> rain, I can see rust on the surface. There isn't a lot of room
> between the crank, chain stay and frame in this vicinity and I'm
> thinking that to really get at the rust I would need to remove the
> crank. I don't mind giving this a shot, but will need to get a crank
> puller and since I'm planning to tour on the bike in a month, I don't
> want to get in a position where I'm getting tools, doing something new
> and become pressed to get everything back and road tested with a
> deadline looming. What is the best way to contain the rust? Can it
> be done without removing the crank (at least for now)?
>
> BTW, it seems to me that the high / low stop settings are very
> sensitive as I had the chain and cassette replaced recently at my
> LBS. I wound up throwing the chain several times on my first ride
> after getting the bike back, roughing up my nice polished crank. This
> time it was the high setting that I needed to adjust. It seems to be
> set correctly now but is this a configuration problem--I have a Campy
> triple on the front and Shimano XT long cage on the rear? I recall
> reading somewhere (Sheldon Brown?) that these screws should not be
> loose--they are loose but not excessively so and they seem to stay
> once set correctly? Is blue lock-tite a recommended solution?
>
> Thanks for your advice.
>
> Joe
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
> rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> For more options, visit this group at
> http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
>
>
--
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com
A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
