Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
Clayton - the cx70's have the cable carrier which has a set straddle angle and height. would it be wise to try a straddle wire in its place to mess with the height and adjustment? I'm also wondering if the 650b setup is a good idea for brake placement. I can position the pads at the highest setting to reach the 650b rims, but is more at the bottom of the rim rather than the middle or top of the rim like when it was a 26" rim. Does that play into how it brakes? I'm also coming off a week on a road bike with disc brakes which isn't helping ;) On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 7:40 PM, Clayton.sf wrote: > Campy cantis with salmon pads. Best ever. Paul vbrakes don't have the > modulation IMO. They stop but they are off or on, not good for dirt. The > CX70 are great though! Have you tried messing with straddle wires. Also, > mushy feel does not mean bad braking. > > Clayton Scott, > SF, CA > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the > Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this topic, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/oSXNjxvxYhM/unsubscribe > . > To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
Regarding straddle. You can use a "normal" straddle wire arrangement on the cx70. LBS should have those. Clayton Scott SF, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
dstein asked: "I'm also wondering if the 650b setup is a good idea for brake placement. I can position the pads at the highest setting to reach the 650b rims, but is more at the bottom of the rim rather than the middle or top of the rim like when it was a 26" rim. Does that play into how it brakes?" For any cantilever brake of this kind, pads at the top of the slots is the position of LEAST mechanical advantage. This goes completely counter to your main complaint, though. Your primary complaint is the brakes are squishy. Squishy feeling brakes is the most common symptom of HIGH mechanical advantage. With the pads at the top of the slots, your brakes should feel solid, but should feel like you don't have much power. This is what confuses me about the whole thing. It doesn't add up, and leads me to suspect there is something else going on. Bill Lindsay El Cerrito, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
I have CX70 on my 26" Hunqapillar, too. (Just swapped to studded tires. Was running Rat Trap Pass with VO fenders.) I changed from Tektro CR720, and CX70s are much better. I used the straddle hanger and cable, as I have several handlebar setups, and swapping them is easy using the straddle wire/hanger arrangement. One thing to try: change your brake housing to compressionless brake housing. (Don't get it confused with derailer housing!) I've heard that it can dramatically improve brake feel. (I do notice that the brakes feel more squishy on the longer cable runs on the albatross bars than the shorter cable runs on the moustache. I'll try new cable housing in the spring.) Good luck! Shoji On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 9:45:45 AM UTC-5, Clayton.sf wrote: > > Regarding straddle. You can use a "normal" straddle wire arrangement on > the cx70. LBS should have those. > > Clayton Scott > SF, CA > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
Maybe squishy isn't the right adjective then? My concern is I have to pull the road levers almost all the way then and even then I feel I am not getting near the stopping power I should be compared to my other bikes (mix of canti's and calipers and discs). Also on the minimotos for anyone that knows, should those be run with road brake levers? Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 4, 2016, at 7:04 AM, Bill Lindsay wrote: > > dstein asked: > > "I'm also wondering if the 650b setup is a good idea for brake placement. I > can position the pads at the highest setting to reach the 650b rims, but is > more at the bottom of the rim rather than the middle or top of the rim like > when it was a 26" rim. Does that play into how it brakes?" > > For any cantilever brake of this kind, pads at the top of the slots is the > position of LEAST mechanical advantage. This goes completely counter to your > main complaint, though. Your primary complaint is the brakes are squishy. > Squishy feeling brakes is the most common symptom of HIGH mechanical > advantage. With the pads at the top of the slots, your brakes should feel > solid, but should feel like you don't have much power. This is what confuses > me about the whole thing. It doesn't add up, and leads me to suspect there > is something else going on. > > Bill Lindsay > El Cerrito, CA > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the Google > Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this topic, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/oSXNjxvxYhM/unsubscribe. > To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
mini motos are short pull so road levers On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 10:21:44 AM UTC-5, dstein wrote: > > Maybe squishy isn't the right adjective then? My concern is I have to pull > the road levers almost all the way then and even then I feel I am not > getting near the stopping power I should be compared to my other bikes (mix > of canti's and calipers and discs). > > Also on the minimotos for anyone that knows, should those be run with road > brake levers? > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jan 4, 2016, at 7:04 AM, Bill Lindsay > > wrote: > > dstein asked: > > "I'm also wondering if the 650b setup is a good idea for brake placement. > I can position the pads at the highest setting to reach the 650b rims, but > is more at the bottom of the rim rather than the middle or top of the rim > like when it was a 26" rim. Does that play into how it brakes?" > > For any cantilever brake of this kind, pads at the top of the slots is the > position of LEAST mechanical advantage. This goes completely counter to > your main complaint, though. Your primary complaint is the brakes are > squishy. Squishy feeling brakes is the most common symptom of HIGH > mechanical advantage. With the pads at the top of the slots, your brakes > should feel solid, but should feel like you don't have much power. This is > what confuses me about the whole thing. It doesn't add up, and leads me to > suspect there is something else going on. > > Bill Lindsay > El Cerrito, CA > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the > Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this topic, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/oSXNjxvxYhM/unsubscribe > . > To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to > rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com . > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > . > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
Thanks for the advice all. I think I'll go back to the 26" rims to get the brake pads lowered and in a better position on the rim (also a good excuse to get some Rat Trap Passes!) and then rely on a LBS for adjustments if need be (any recommendations for a mechanic in Oakland? I've been using Hank and Frank on College Ave just for proximity to my house). If I still feel I need something after that I'll then take a look at Paul Touring or Campy canti's, or possibly Motolites. If anyone has any experience running Motolites on a Hunq with wide tires and also racks let me know! On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:06 AM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote: > Another aspect of "sponginess" that one should check for is brake pad > contact angle. While brake squeals can be attenuated by a bit of toe-in, > one should ensure that there isn't too much toe-in *and* the vertical > alignment of the pads is good. Specifically, ensure that the entire pad > contacts the rim and not just the top or bottom pad (this adjustment aspect > is 90° from the toe-in). One can easily verify this by examining the pads > after a little use; good adjustment means the pad has rub marks top to > bottom, on the front section of the pad. Of course, with enough wear, all > brake pads will become optimally adjusted. :) > > On the newer cantilever brakes that uses the "V-brake type mounting" (such > as on the Paul brakes), this adjustment can easily be done by actuating the > brakes semi-forcefully while the pad mounting nuts are tightened. > Cantilever brakes that use pads with the "smooth post" are a little more > challenging to get right. > > > > On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 9:29:55 AM UTC-8, Garth wrote: >> >> Direct facing photos of both front and rear would be useful ! >> This may help : >> http://www.bikeforums.net/recreational-cyclocross-gravelbiking/722673-cantilver-brake-faq.html >> >> I suspect and adjustment of the straddle wire would help. The basic >> straddle carriers are wonderful as they are much more flexible in setup. >> I've found any of the fixed ones are too limiting. Also, detach the >> straddle cable from the brake and hold it down at the carrier with one >> hand, and activate the brake with the other, it should feel smooth and >> without resistance. Cables and their routing angles all play a part in this >> and a resistance-free setup here is the foundation for any brake performing >> at it's best. >> >> A higher priced brakes is no more of a gauge of quality of braking than >> mid or even lower priced ones. Setup and pads are everything ! My favorite >> brakes are still the 80's post style cantilever Shimano or Suntour . >> > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the > Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this topic, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/oSXNjxvxYhM/unsubscribe > . > To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
On 01/03/2016 07:49 PM, Brian Campbell wrote: I have had Paul Canti's (Neo Retro & touring) as well as Paul Racer Centerpulls. None (in my opinion) stop as well as a set Shimano XTR V brakes I am using on a 1989 Trek mountain bike. The V brakes were much easier to set up and adjust. Again, all opinion, but opinion borne from actual experience. I would not, willingly, use cantilever brakes again. Presumably you are using these with mountain bike brake levers? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
The Paul brakes were all set up on road bikes, using road bike levers. The V brakes are using V-brake specific levers. On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 3:01:55 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote: > > > > On 01/03/2016 07:49 PM, Brian Campbell wrote: > > I have had Paul Canti's (Neo Retro & touring) as well as Paul Racer > > Centerpulls. None (in my opinion) stop as well as a set Shimano XTR V > > brakes I am using on a 1989 Trek mountain bike. The V brakes were much > > easier to set up and adjust. Again, all opinion, but opinion borne > > from actual experience. I would not, willingly, use cantilever brakes > > again. > > > > Presumably you are using these with mountain bike brake levers? > > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
> The Paul brakes were all set up on road bikes, using road bike levers. The V brakes are using V-brake specific levers. I have had good luck matching the Paul Min-Vs with Campagnolo Record MTB Flat Bar levers which I believe were made for a year or two in the early '90s. The modern MTB levers I tried did not work well. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 1:32:52 PM UTC-8, Matthew J wrote: > > > The Paul brakes were all set up on road bikes, using road bike levers. > The V brakes are using V-brake specific levers. > > I have had good luck matching the Paul Min-Vs with Campagnolo Record MTB > Flat Bar levers which I believe were made for a year or two in the early > '90s. The modern MTB levers I tried did not work well. > Yes, mini-v brakes, which were originally designed for BMX bikes, work great with road levers! On my cross bike, I used a cheapie Tektro 926al mini-v brake (under $20) with my Campy ergo levers and it was far superior to the crappy Suntour xc pro canti brake that I had on there. It was like night and day! No more squealing, shuddering or vibration of any sort. I heard from a friend who writes for a cx rag that the Paul minimoto mini-v brake is arguably the best non-disc brake in dry conditions. Good Luck! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
90% of the time if your brakes are "squishy" or lack feel, you are using the wrong lever, incorrect housing, or the are not adjusted properly. Most road bike levers for caliper or cantilevers won't work on V brakes or disc brakes. I have Paul levers on 4 bikes and I have the Touring cantis on my Clementine. I like them fine, but I am not sure if they are better than my favorite brake, the XTR cantilevers. I am running them with the Tektro FL750 levers which worked like crap with V brakes (even though I have seen numerous bikes with V brakes running them!?) The Pauls work great with these levers! Hope that helps! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 11:27:54 AM UTC-8, dstein wrote: > > (any recommendations for a mechanic in Oakland? I've been using Hank and > Frank on College Ave just for proximity to my house). > > Cyclesports on Grand has a mature mechanic (i.e., 50 or so) who knows his stuff. jim m wc ca -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
Ugh. So i got a deal on some rat trap pass tires from a list member which motivated me to put the 26" wheels back on to get a lower brake pad position compared to the 650b wheels. I also went nuts and bought some motolites and tektro rl520 long pull road brake levers for my albastaches. Spent an insane amount of time yesterday (good thing it was a rainy day and not much else to do) trying to make this work and I can only conclude that me and brakes just don't get along, I'm going to bring this one in to a mechanic. The brakes are either too tight and rub the rim or too loose and the levers bottom out against the handlebar. I feel like the spring adjustment and pad alignment for the motolites are right. But when I get the cable tension tight enough that the levers don't bottom out, I get one good spin on the wheels without tire rub, pull the brake lever, and then they stick to the side of the rim, if I loosen them a tiny bit then the levers bottom out again on the handlebars. I also stripped the cable tension bolt :(. Off to the bike shop. I'm also going to see if they can get some tubeless action going for these areoheat rims and rat traps. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
I've had nothing but great experiences with my Paul Motolites, first on my Fisher MTB and now on my Clem. No problems with setup with or without racks (Tubus rear and Pass & Stow front) and fenders. Excellent brakes and when paired with Paul levers there's tons of adjustability. I'd also highly recommend Montano Velo on Piedmont Ave On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 2:27:54 PM UTC-5, dstein wrote: > > Thanks for the advice all. I think I'll go back to the 26" rims to get the > brake pads lowered and in a better position on the rim (also a good excuse > to get some Rat Trap Passes!) and then rely on a LBS for adjustments if > need be (any recommendations for a mechanic in Oakland? I've been using > Hank and Frank on College Ave just for proximity to my house). > > If I still feel I need something after that I'll then take a look at Paul > Touring or Campy canti's, or possibly Motolites. If anyone has any > experience running Motolites on a Hunq with wide tires and also racks let > me know! > > On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:06 AM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA > wrote: > >> Another aspect of "sponginess" that one should check for is brake pad >> contact angle. While brake squeals can be attenuated by a bit of toe-in, >> one should ensure that there isn't too much toe-in *and* the vertical >> alignment of the pads is good. Specifically, ensure that the entire pad >> contacts the rim and not just the top or bottom pad (this adjustment aspect >> is 90° from the toe-in). One can easily verify this by examining the pads >> after a little use; good adjustment means the pad has rub marks top to >> bottom, on the front section of the pad. Of course, with enough wear, all >> brake pads will become optimally adjusted. :) >> >> On the newer cantilever brakes that uses the "V-brake type mounting" >> (such as on the Paul brakes), this adjustment can easily be done by >> actuating the brakes semi-forcefully while the pad mounting nuts are >> tightened. Cantilever brakes that use pads with the "smooth post" are a >> little more challenging to get right. >> >> >> >> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 9:29:55 AM UTC-8, Garth wrote: >>> >>> Direct facing photos of both front and rear would be useful ! >>> This may help : >>> http://www.bikeforums.net/recreational-cyclocross-gravelbiking/722673-cantilver-brake-faq.html >>> >>> I suspect and adjustment of the straddle wire would help. The basic >>> straddle carriers are wonderful as they are much more flexible in setup. >>> I've found any of the fixed ones are too limiting. Also, detach the >>> straddle cable from the brake and hold it down at the carrier with one >>> hand, and activate the brake with the other, it should feel smooth and >>> without resistance. Cables and their routing angles all play a part in this >>> and a resistance-free setup here is the foundation for any brake performing >>> at it's best. >>> >>> A higher priced brakes is no more of a gauge of quality of braking than >>> mid or even lower priced ones. Setup and pads are everything ! My favorite >>> brakes are still the 80's post style cantilever Shimano or Suntour . >>> >> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the >> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >> To unsubscribe from this topic, visit >> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/oSXNjxvxYhM/unsubscribe >> . >> To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to >> rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com . >> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com >> . >> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
I need to check out Montano Velo, I keep hearing good things about them, they were closed today so I went to Hank and Frank's. There's a cool mechanic there, Benji(?), who helped correct my mistakes and setup the brakes properly. Took it around the block and the braking power so far is aweome. My minor brake crisis comes to an end ;) On Sun, Jan 10, 2016 at 11:03 AM, ian m wrote: > I've had nothing but great experiences with my Paul Motolites, first on my > Fisher MTB and now on my Clem. No problems with setup with or without racks > (Tubus rear and Pass & Stow front) and fenders. Excellent brakes and when > paired with Paul levers there's tons of adjustability. > > I'd also highly recommend Montano Velo on Piedmont Ave > > On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 2:27:54 PM UTC-5, dstein wrote: >> >> Thanks for the advice all. I think I'll go back to the 26" rims to get >> the brake pads lowered and in a better position on the rim (also a good >> excuse to get some Rat Trap Passes!) and then rely on a LBS for adjustments >> if need be (any recommendations for a mechanic in Oakland? I've been using >> Hank and Frank on College Ave just for proximity to my house). >> >> If I still feel I need something after that I'll then take a look at Paul >> Touring or Campy canti's, or possibly Motolites. If anyone has any >> experience running Motolites on a Hunq with wide tires and also racks let >> me know! >> >> On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 11:06 AM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA >> wrote: >> >>> Another aspect of "sponginess" that one should check for is brake pad >>> contact angle. While brake squeals can be attenuated by a bit of toe-in, >>> one should ensure that there isn't too much toe-in *and* the vertical >>> alignment of the pads is good. Specifically, ensure that the entire pad >>> contacts the rim and not just the top or bottom pad (this adjustment aspect >>> is 90° from the toe-in). One can easily verify this by examining the pads >>> after a little use; good adjustment means the pad has rub marks top to >>> bottom, on the front section of the pad. Of course, with enough wear, all >>> brake pads will become optimally adjusted. :) >>> >>> On the newer cantilever brakes that uses the "V-brake type mounting" >>> (such as on the Paul brakes), this adjustment can easily be done by >>> actuating the brakes semi-forcefully while the pad mounting nuts are >>> tightened. Cantilever brakes that use pads with the "smooth post" are a >>> little more challenging to get right. >>> >>> >>> >>> On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 9:29:55 AM UTC-8, Garth wrote: Direct facing photos of both front and rear would be useful ! This may help : http://www.bikeforums.net/recreational-cyclocross-gravelbiking/722673-cantilver-brake-faq.html I suspect and adjustment of the straddle wire would help. The basic straddle carriers are wonderful as they are much more flexible in setup. I've found any of the fixed ones are too limiting. Also, detach the straddle cable from the brake and hold it down at the carrier with one hand, and activate the brake with the other, it should feel smooth and without resistance. Cables and their routing angles all play a part in this and a resistance-free setup here is the foundation for any brake performing at it's best. A higher priced brakes is no more of a gauge of quality of braking than mid or even lower priced ones. Setup and pads are everything ! My favorite brakes are still the 80's post style cantilever Shimano or Suntour . >>> -- >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the >>> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >>> To unsubscribe from this topic, visit >>> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/oSXNjxvxYhM/unsubscribe >>> . >>> To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to >>> rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. >>> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. >>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. >>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >>> >> >> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the > Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this topic, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/oSXNjxvxYhM/unsubscribe > . > To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-
Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation
The symptoms you've described sounds like you're using cantilever levers with Linear-pull brakes (that the Paul Motolites are, of course). Double-confirm that the levers are truly what they purport to be? I know that the RL520 levers will work with linear-pull brakes, as I have that a combo with Shimano Deore V-brakes at the pointy end. On Sunday, January 10, 2016 at 8:47:38 AM UTC-8, dstein wrote: > > Ugh. So i got a deal on some rat trap pass tires from a list member which > motivated me to put the 26" wheels back on to get a lower brake pad > position compared to the 650b wheels. I also went nuts and bought some > motolites and tektro rl520 long pull road brake levers for my albastaches. > Spent an insane amount of time yesterday (good thing it was a rainy day and > not much else to do) trying to make this work and I can only conclude that > me and brakes just don't get along, I'm going to bring this one in to a > mechanic. The brakes are either too tight and rub the rim or too loose and > the levers bottom out against the handlebar. I feel like the spring > adjustment and pad alignment for the motolites are right. But when I get > the cable tension tight enough that the levers don't bottom out, I get one > good spin on the wheels without tire rub, pull the brake lever, and then > they stick to the side of the rim, if I loosen them a tiny bit then the > levers bottom out again on the handlebars. I also stripped the cable > tension bolt :(. > > Off to the bike shop. I'm also going to see if they can get some tubeless > action going for these areoheat rims and rat traps. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
