Re: [RBW] Re: Seat post clamp bolt snapped

2014-10-15 Thread David Stein
Hunter - You are correct. Problem 2 has been solved by a simple tap out of
the nut and bolt per previous suggestions. I did not realize it was just a
bolt on the other side, I was under the impression there was some threads
in the housing and the bolt would have to be extracted by drilling a hole
or something. It was way more simple than I thought. Thankfully ;)

Interesting thought on the tightening (or lack of). Now that I was able to
get a replacement nut and bolt in there I'll monitor it and if there is any
more slippage, if so I'll bring it to riv to apply some knurling on the
seat post to add some friction and keep it from sliding.



On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 10:30 AM, Hunter Harr crazydogfa...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Pictures would help. But if I understand what I read right, Head broke off
 bolt so what is left in the frame is post and locknut, so should just punch
 out and get a replacement bolt and nut. The seat clamp part that is part of
 the frame on Rivs is not threaded, one size captures a nut then bolt come
 in from the other side. My bet is the stainless steel gauled and you were
 never actually tightening the seat post as much as you though, so maybe no
 undersized seat post or oversize seat tube, bad bolt and nut.

 If bolt sheared off coming out, drilling and extractor are not going to do
 the job. If there is some of the head still there, not letting it pouch
 through, drill on the bolt with just oversize bit until you just kiss the
 frame, then it should pouch out.

 Hunter

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Re: [RBW] Re: Seat post clamp bolt snapped

2014-10-15 Thread Joe Bunik
Just a thought, Dave - but are you using a hanger-stop (eg Nitto) that
attaches to the seatpost bolt? And, if so- was it perhaps getting
lodged between the ears of the lug-slot and causing less-than-100%
clampage?

Something to watch out for!
=- Joe Bunik
Walnut Creek, CA

On 10/15/14, David Stein davecst...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hunter - You are correct. Problem 2 has been solved by a simple tap out of
 the nut and bolt per previous suggestions. I did not realize it was just a
 bolt on the other side, I was under the impression there was some threads
 in the housing and the bolt would have to be extracted by drilling a hole
 or something. It was way more simple than I thought. Thankfully ;)

 Interesting thought on the tightening (or lack of). Now that I was able to
 get a replacement nut and bolt in there I'll monitor it and if there is any
 more slippage, if so I'll bring it to riv to apply some knurling on the
 seat post to add some friction and keep it from sliding.



 On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 10:30 AM, Hunter Harr crazydogfa...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Pictures would help. But if I understand what I read right, Head broke
 off
 bolt so what is left in the frame is post and locknut, so should just
 punch
 out and get a replacement bolt and nut. The seat clamp part that is part
 of
 the frame on Rivs is not threaded, one size captures a nut then bolt come
 in from the other side. My bet is the stainless steel gauled and you were
 never actually tightening the seat post as much as you though, so maybe
 no
 undersized seat post or oversize seat tube, bad bolt and nut.

 If bolt sheared off coming out, drilling and extractor are not going to
 do
 the job. If there is some of the head still there, not letting it pouch
 through, drill on the bolt with just oversize bit until you just kiss the
 frame, then it should pouch out.

 Hunter

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Re: [RBW] Re: Seat post clamp bolt snapped

2014-10-15 Thread David Stein
Do you mean the hanger stop for the brakes? Yes, but it was pretty well
centered, though I may not understand what you're asking.

On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 12:43 PM, Joe Bunik jbu...@gmail.com wrote:

 Just a thought, Dave - but are you using a hanger-stop (eg Nitto) that
 attaches to the seatpost bolt? And, if so- was it perhaps getting
 lodged between the ears of the lug-slot and causing less-than-100%
 clampage?

 Something to watch out for!
 =- Joe Bunik
 Walnut Creek, CA

 On 10/15/14, David Stein davecst...@gmail.com wrote:
  Hunter - You are correct. Problem 2 has been solved by a simple tap out
 of
  the nut and bolt per previous suggestions. I did not realize it was just
 a
  bolt on the other side, I was under the impression there was some threads
  in the housing and the bolt would have to be extracted by drilling a hole
  or something. It was way more simple than I thought. Thankfully ;)
 
  Interesting thought on the tightening (or lack of). Now that I was able
 to
  get a replacement nut and bolt in there I'll monitor it and if there is
 any
  more slippage, if so I'll bring it to riv to apply some knurling on the
  seat post to add some friction and keep it from sliding.
 
 
 
  On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 10:30 AM, Hunter Harr crazydogfa...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
  Pictures would help. But if I understand what I read right, Head broke
  off
  bolt so what is left in the frame is post and locknut, so should just
  punch
  out and get a replacement bolt and nut. The seat clamp part that is part
  of
  the frame on Rivs is not threaded, one size captures a nut then bolt
 come
  in from the other side. My bet is the stainless steel gauled and you
 were
  never actually tightening the seat post as much as you though, so maybe
  no
  undersized seat post or oversize seat tube, bad bolt and nut.
 
  If bolt sheared off coming out, drilling and extractor are not going to
  do
  the job. If there is some of the head still there, not letting it pouch
  through, drill on the bolt with just oversize bit until you just kiss
 the
  frame, then it should pouch out.
 
  Hunter
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Seat post clamp bolt snapped

2014-10-14 Thread Patrick Moore
But integrated clamps are so much prettier! I cringe whenever I see a
separate clamp.

A bit more seriously, I myself tend to overtighten, less from being
hamfisted than from being impatient and anxious, and I've bent more than
one integrated clamp (fixed as Ron says with large screwdriver), and I have
snapped at least one sp clamp bolt (I think it was a Campy). If your
seatpost is right, and the seat tube and lug is right, it really takes
little torque to hold the sp in place -- as I only belatedly discovered and
even more belatedly admitted. IME, which is not inconsiderable, it is
usually cheap frames and seatposts that tend to slip, though not always --
my Syncros, mentioned earlier, was certainly not cheap.

On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 12:45 PM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:

 Every time I see a bike with a built-in seat post clamp I cringe a little
 bit.  I've never been mechanically inclined and just started learning to
 work on my own bikes less than two years ago.  My only mishaps were
 breaking the bolt in one of my Ergon grips (twice!!) and breaking the bolt
 in a stem.  After the third time I bought one of those 5nM torque wrenches
 for the smaller bolts.




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Re: [RBW] Re: Seat post clamp bolt snapped

2014-10-13 Thread David Stein
Thanks!

Glad to know I'm not the only one! I almost never am hence why I asked.
Brian @ riv said I could bring in the seatpost and he would apply some
knurling to it, I had to look that up, will help with slipping.

Now I just need to work on tapping out the bolt and getting a new one.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Seat post clamp bolt snapped

2014-10-13 Thread Eric Norris
Campagnolo's seat post bolts were notorious for breaking--I've snapped several. 
When I went to PBP, I took a spare ... and ended up using it when I snapped 
mine in France while making a small adjustment in seat height.

--Eric Norris
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
campyonlyguy.blogspot.com

On Oct 13, 2014, at 2:38 PM, Tom Harrop twhar...@gmail.com wrote:

 I know the feeling because I've had seatpost slippage on several bikes (I'm 
 100 kg +). The first time I ran into it, I also incrementally cranked the 
 bolt down tighter and tighter (without helping the slipping) until it 
 snapped. With that in mind, I guess if the bolt snaps it means the seatpost 
 is undersized (or the clamp is deformed), which causes the bolt to bend as 
 you try to tighten it.
 
 Anyway, each time I've managed to solve the problem by going up a seatpost 
 size, even if it means ignoring the manufacturer's recommended size. One time 
 the required size didn't seem to exist, so I used a wrap of 0.2 mm thick 
 steel shim, which also worked.
 
 In my hands, none of the other commonly suggested methods (like beer can 
 shim, abrasive rub etc.) have ever helped... but it could just be a question 
 of weight.
 
 Good luck, and let us know how you end up fixing it.
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Seat post clamp bolt snapped

2014-10-13 Thread Bill Lindsay
Regarding tapping the bolt out.  You should be able to shove it out with a 
ballpoint pen.  If you have a cable hanger hanging from the bolt to your 
rear brake, then disconnect the cable down at the brakes.  With slack in 
the system there, literally you should be able to just shove it out with a 
pen or similar.  The broken bolt will pop out with a nylock nut connected 
to it.  

On Monday, October 13, 2014 2:43:17 PM UTC-7, DS wrote:

 Thanks!

 Glad to know I'm not the only one! I almost never am hence why I asked. 
 Brian @ riv said I could bring in the seatpost and he would apply some 
 knurling to it, I had to look that up, will help with slipping. 

 Now I just need to work on tapping out the bolt and getting a new one. 


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