[TANKS] Another busy day, suspension sorted
I finally sorted out my suspension - I've been stuffing around at nights after work during the week and I built this: http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090107/suspension%20detail%20corner%20detail%202.JPG but then I realised that the top mount angle bar was going to interfere with the top of the tracks. I could have just moved the tracks outboard by another 1 or so, but that would be getting really wide and would not look true to the real thing, so back to square 1. Then I thought that I have this 1 wide frame and with the current thinking, I am going to waste that 1 of space, so why not mount the springs inside (in-line) with the frame, here are the pics http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090110/Finished%20Suspension%20Detail%2001.JPG http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090110/Finished%20Suspension%20Detail%2002.JPG http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090110/Finished%20Suspension%20Detail%2003.JPG http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090110/Finished%20Suspension%20Detail%2004.JPG the springs, mounts and suspension arms do not protrude into the inside of the tank, and the skin for those two panels (where the springs are) will be 3mm aluminium riveted to the inside of the frame. This will leave the suspension in-line with the frame bars, but still exposed and on the outside of the panels. The riveted 3mm panel will also provide for HEAPS of vertical strength between the top and bottom frame pieces. You can see the two vertical straps I am using now to provide strength, those are just for testing to stop the frame coming apart and will be removed when the panel goes in. It took me just over a week to get this far, after work and on the weekends, including the abortion of the first suspension mount attempt :-( my motors, ESC, C6C and PS2 controller are all on the way and should be here in another week or so, so engine mounting and tracks are next. I have played with a trial hinge track, but I don't think its going to fly. I think I will need attachment chain. New attachment chain over here is anywhere between $14 and $30 PER FOOT, and that is for #50 non- double pitch. Will, if you're reading this do you have 33 feet of 2060 you could send me? I'm in Australia. Yes, 33 feet, I'm going to have twin chains on each track. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Another busy day, suspension sorted
Looking good! I wouldnt recommend twin chains, 2060 is damn heavy! even single row was too heavy for my liking... Chris. b On Jan 10, 6:44 pm, Modena b...@holnet.net wrote: I finally sorted out my suspension - I've been stuffing around at nights after work during the week and I built this: http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090107/suspension%20detail%20corn... but then I realised that the top mount angle bar was going to interfere with the top of the tracks. I could have just moved the tracks outboard by another 1 or so, but that would be getting really wide and would not look true to the real thing, so back to square 1. Then I thought that I have this 1 wide frame and with the current thinking, I am going to waste that 1 of space, so why not mount the springs inside (in-line) with the frame, here are the pics http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090110/Finished%20Suspension%20De... http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090110/Finished%20Suspension%20De... http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090110/Finished%20Suspension%20De... http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090110/Finished%20Suspension%20De... the springs, mounts and suspension arms do not protrude into the inside of the tank, and the skin for those two panels (where the springs are) will be 3mm aluminium riveted to the inside of the frame. This will leave the suspension in-line with the frame bars, but still exposed and on the outside of the panels. The riveted 3mm panel will also provide for HEAPS of vertical strength between the top and bottom frame pieces. You can see the two vertical straps I am using now to provide strength, those are just for testing to stop the frame coming apart and will be removed when the panel goes in. It took me just over a week to get this far, after work and on the weekends, including the abortion of the first suspension mount attempt :-( my motors, ESC, C6C and PS2 controller are all on the way and should be here in another week or so, so engine mounting and tracks are next. I have played with a trial hinge track, but I don't think its going to fly. I think I will need attachment chain. New attachment chain over here is anywhere between $14 and $30 PER FOOT, and that is for #50 non- double pitch. Will, if you're reading this do you have 33 feet of 2060 you could send me? I'm in Australia. Yes, 33 feet, I'm going to have twin chains on each track. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Sketchup Help
Done it before. You just need to know how to use sketchup. I could do it in Pro-desktop if you want but i'm rubbish at pro desktop and you would end up with something looking like a turd. On Jan 9, 12:14 am, Gregory Pwneror sockles...@gmail.com wrote: how do you do tech drawings with sketchup, shouldnt you use something like autocad? -greg On Wed, Jan 7, 2009 at 7:06 AM, callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com callum.king.underw...@hotmail.com wrote: Anyone need help with creating sketchup models from technical drawings. I may be able to do it for you if you can scan the drawings in. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Another busy day, suspension sorted
thanks Chris I'm not too concerned about the weight, from what I have read it is roughly 1 lb per foot, with my aluminum frame and lithium battery, I dont think weight is going to be an issue. Having said that, I did notice a massive difference between my frame on its own, and the frame with one side of suspension buttoned up - all those bolts, washers and nuts all made of steel do add up! I really don't like the look of single chain, but apart from chain it seems that there are not many other options for a slack track system the hinge idea was on the top of my list, but the possibility of easy derailment scares me, and I really don't want to spend $x00 on hinges, and lots of time, only to find that it doesn't really work On Jan 10, 8:50 pm, Chris. b barthelso...@hotmail.com wrote: Looking good! I wouldnt recommend twin chains, 2060 is damn heavy! even single row was too heavy for my liking... Chris. b On Jan 10, 6:44 pm, Modena b...@holnet.net wrote: I finally sorted out my suspension - I've been stuffing around at nights after work during the week and I built this: http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090107/suspension%20detail%20corn... but then I realised that the top mount angle bar was going to interfere with the top of the tracks. I could have just moved the tracks outboard by another 1 or so, but that would be getting really wide and would not look true to the real thing, so back to square 1. Then I thought that I have this 1 wide frame and with the current thinking, I am going to waste that 1 of space, so why not mount the springs inside (in-line) with the frame, here are the pics http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090110/Finished%20Suspension%20De... http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090110/Finished%20Suspension%20De... http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090110/Finished%20Suspension%20De... http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090110/Finished%20Suspension%20De... the springs, mounts and suspension arms do not protrude into the inside of the tank, and the skin for those two panels (where the springs are) will be 3mm aluminium riveted to the inside of the frame. This will leave the suspension in-line with the frame bars, but still exposed and on the outside of the panels. The riveted 3mm panel will also provide for HEAPS of vertical strength between the top and bottom frame pieces. You can see the two vertical straps I am using now to provide strength, those are just for testing to stop the frame coming apart and will be removed when the panel goes in. It took me just over a week to get this far, after work and on the weekends, including the abortion of the first suspension mount attempt :-( my motors, ESC, C6C and PS2 controller are all on the way and should be here in another week or so, so engine mounting and tracks are next. I have played with a trial hinge track, but I don't think its going to fly. I think I will need attachment chain. New attachment chain over here is anywhere between $14 and $30 PER FOOT, and that is for #50 non- double pitch. Will, if you're reading this do you have 33 feet of 2060 you could send me? I'm in Australia. Yes, 33 feet, I'm going to have twin chains on each track. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Another busy day, suspension sorted
I used dual rows of #60 chain, and, in an ideal world, would have used attachment chain too. I got a quote for the 32 feet I need, and that came to almost $1000 from a local supplier. Regular non-attachment chain from Princess Auto was $24 per 10 foot section. Guess which route I chose? Alas, the price for that is a heavily modified sprocket, requiring me to mill off every 2nd tooth, and mill in a recess to allow the bolt heads to fit. On the plus side, that reduces the weight of my sprockets by about 10%. Here's what I've ended up with: http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/coffee/pics/Tiger/Dec%2008%20159%20(Small).jpg I'm quite pleased, and with a bit of touch-up grinding, it fit together quite well, and meshes nicely. NS --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
Doug Conn wrote: Oh ! I see now. Ron, is this what you were describing, too ? Sorry, I misunderstood. I guess it would be like this, then, where I sand away the blue areas Yes, grasshopper - the pebble is getting closer. What material is a good choice ? I don’t think foam would work for vacuforming. Even I use fiberglass, I’d like a mold that survives more than one use. By far, the best choice is wait for it you'd never guess it on your own but the winner and all around best choice is: Cedar Fence Boards Cedar is relatively cheap, cuts and sand easily, the dust does not fly in the air (it actually freshens the air in the workshop) and accepts any filler and sealer you want to use. Cedar is very light when compared to other common woods and it forms a very smooth surface when sanded, even across the grain. Unlike balsa (which is also much more expensive), the sawdust drops to the floor instead of floating in the air. In fact, if you sweep up the sawdust and put it in a plastic container, you can mix it into any resin as a thickening agent to make a nice sandable putty (it's called wood flour when used like that). So, after shaping the plug, you mix some epoxy or polyester resin, throw in enough cedar dust to make a mayonnaise consistency and then smear that over the surface. When dried, you can sand that just like wood filler and finish the surface as smooth as you want. I've personally made two large scale sailboats using cedar: http://www.pittelli.com/schooner/photos/ships/Frank/Wasa/ http://www.pittelli.com/schooner/photos/ships/Frank/Junk/ and I've found it to be the best softwood to work with for non-structural components. (Popular is my favorite choice when a hardwood is needed for strength or durability.) Styrofoam is a workshop nightmare, especially in the winter when static electricity will cause it to stick to everything. Unless you have the right tools, it is harder to work with than wood and less forgiving. You cannot make a sharp angle or detail in styrofoam like you can in wood. Worst, when you push on it, it compresses and then rebounds, making it very difficult to get a smooth contour. We (not just me) tried using it for numerous large scale boat molds in the early warship days, learning with each bad project that wood was the proper plug-making material. Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Another busy day, suspension sorted
Modena wrote: I'm not too concerned about the weight, from what I have read it is roughly 1 lb per foot, with my aluminum frame and lithium battery, I dont think weight is going to be an issue. I generally don't shoot down anyone's design ideas, but if you are planning on using two rows of 2060 chain for your tracks, you are quite simply crazy ... especially if you have spent money on an aluminum frame and lithium batteries to save weight. I can assure you that two rows of 2060 chain on each side will not only wipe out all the weight savings you've already achieved, but will put you right back near the top of the heavyweight list. 2060 chain weighs 1 pound per foot, not counting the cost of the heavy sprockets needed on both ends. Double everything up and you're looking at approx 30 pounds of track weight for a 3 foot vehicle. Compare that with a TTS track system weighing a total of 10 pounds. The attachments on the 2060 chain are wide enough to support a 4 tread with no problem and are far stronger than necessary for the purpose. Placing two chains side by side would not only force the treads to be wider, but would be enormous overkill from a strength and durability standpoint. Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
gasoline will also melt the styrofoam out without damaging the fiberglass or stinking up the house. Tod J. - Original Message - From: Paul Hilton To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 2:54 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: turret molding question Doug, I used Styrofoam covered in aluminum foil for the BT-7 turret. I still have the form. It was constructed from layers of Styrofoam. Hard templates were used for guiding a bread knife to cut the conical shape. I used a positive mold method. The form was made a bit smaller than the finished product and served only to provide a general shape. Layers of fiberglass cloth and mat were then applied to the outside surface. Any imperfections can be sanded and refilled. This is the cheapest method that I could think of for an irregularly shaped turret. A lost foam method might work well for a post WWII American tank like the M-26 Pershing with an irregular, rounded shape and prominent overhang. In this method you would build your fiberglass shell over your foam core, then melt it out in an oven. Of course this would be a one off mold, but how many turrets of the same type would you want? Paul H. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
In a message dated 1/9/2009 9:45:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, barthelso...@hotmail.com writes: Make your master exactly how you want your turret to look, then give it a couple of coats of fibreglass. Pull the master out and discard it. Once the master is out you have a perfect negative replica of your turret, coat the inside of the fibreglass shell with a mold release, then layup more fibreglass inside it, then demold. With this method you can make as many turrets as you want using the 1 fibreglass mold. Chris. b ya, but if you make slight goof with the release you could stand to loose the mold Chris, _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
Another method I have been using lately. Build up most of the shape with any thing (I used 1/8 styrene cos that what I had) then model the final shape over the top of that in clay. The clay can be shaped very easily by hand, and is perfect for a single use mold because it can be reused over and over, this is the method I used for most of my KV-1 parts. Chris. b On Jan 11, 4:48 am, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 1/10/2009 10:54:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, todjo...@comcast.net writes: gasoline will also melt the styrofoam out without damaging the fiberglass or stinking up the house. Tod J. - Original just do it outside, acitone (?) works better but you should do that outside with a mask Chris, _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?red... cemailfooterNO62) --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: A possible elevation system?
You've got it all wrong, Chris! I have no intention of starting a new vehicle or artillery piece just yet. I was called out last sunday to repair a 30 pair cable that had been severed when an articulated petrol tanker crashed off the M5 in worcestershire ( see here; http://scotlandonsunday.scotsman.com/latest-west-midlands-news/Motorway-shut-after-tanker-crash.4841945.jp ). I just found where the door mirror had been ripped off the truck, noticed that there was an electric mechanism inside it and took it with me when I left. Why? Because it was free and it might, one day, be useful . . . On Jan 10, 10:45 pm, Chris Malton chr...@cmalton.me.uk wrote: Pete, It never ceases to amaze what you turn up with. Time, after time, after time. You've *still* got an unregistered FA (last I saw of it), and now look what you've tasked yourself with - another FA/bunker. It's a great bit of kit though. I like the look of it a lot. I think it would make a perfect basis for an FA/bunker. Chris I don't think I can afford to build anything else RIGHT now. M On 10/01/2009 22:31, Pureteenlard wrote: Got this door mirror actuator from the scene of a pretty good accident on the M5. I think it might make a good basis for an elevate mechanism although it's a little bulky and might work better on an artillery piece or bunker. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=z_QEfBdl7nM Since it came off a truck it's a 24v device but it's got the advantage of having a clutch on the motor so that there's no damage to motor or mechanism if you overrun it.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
just for molds, once the fibreglass sets you simply peel the clay out. Chris. b On Jan 11, 9:54 am, Mike Måne mike082...@gmail.com wrote: What do you mean by using clay? Did you use the clay for molds or actually part of the tank? On 1/10/09, Chris. b barthelso...@hotmail.com wrote: Another method I have been using lately. Build up most of the shape with any thing (I used 1/8 styrene cos that what I had) then model the final shape over the top of that in clay. The clay can be shaped very easily by hand, and is perfect for a single use mold because it can be reused over and over, this is the method I used for most of my KV-1 parts. Chris. b On Jan 11, 4:48 am, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 1/10/2009 10:54:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, todjo...@comcast.net writes: gasoline will also melt the styrofoam out without damaging the fiberglass or stinking up the house. Tod J. - Original just do it outside, acitone (?) works better but you should do that outside with a mask Chris, _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?red... cemailfooterNO62) -- -Mike Måne @http://moonrcprojects.googlepages.com- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Another busy day, suspension sorted
In a message dated 1/10/2009 8:59:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, b...@holnet.net writes: I'm not too concerned about the weight, from what I have read it is roughly 1 lb per foot, with my aluminum frame and lithium battery, I dont think weight is going to be an issue. i don't think it's so much an issue of over all weight, but the weight of the tracks themselves as the motors will need to move this weight to move the tank - at least that's my take on it Chris, _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Another busy day, suspension sorted
can you find hollow pin bike chain? it might be an idea to use it and screw into the sides of track links. what about timing chains? i know someone here knows where to get them. Chris, _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
