[TANKS] Air Supply Question ---

2010-03-30 Thread Mark_123521
I am building the turret on my M1A1 Abrams tank.
I have a 22 cubic inch, high pressure, air tank I would like to use.
It will give about 80 shots. Refilling air is no problem, as I own a
carbon fiber, 4500 PSI, 30 minute, SCBA tank.

Will 80 shot air tank capacity be enough??
I know the Magazine is limited to 40 shots, but can you reload during
a battle?

There will be a micro line hose to connect the tank and marker.
I think there is a way to vent the air using this hose?
Would that work as the air supply shut off required by the rules?
Does a quick disconnect  count as  the air shutoff ??

What are people using for an air shut off?


Thanks
Mark

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[TANKS] Air Supply Questions ----

2010-03-30 Thread Mark_123521
I am building the turret on my M1A1 Abrams tank.
I have a 22 cubic inch, high pressure, air tank I would like to use.
It will give about 80 shots. Refilling air is no problem, as I own a
carbon fiber, 4500 PSI, 30 minute, SCBA tank.

Will 80 shot air tank capacity be enough??
I know the Magazine is limited to 40 shots, but can you reload during
a battle?

There will be a micro line hose to connect the tank and marker.
I think there is a way to vent the air using this hose?
Would that work as the air supply shut off required by the rules?
Does a quick disconnect  count as  the air shutoff ??

What are people using for an air shut off?


Thanks
Mark

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[TANKS] How big an air tank do I need?

2010-03-30 Thread Mark_123521
I am building the turret on my M1A1 Abrams tank.
I have a 22 cubic inch, high pressure, air tank I would like to use.
It will give about 80 shots. Refilling air is no problem, as I own a
carbon fiber, 4500 PSI, 30 minute, SCBA tank.

Will 80 shot air tank capacity be enough??
I know the Magazine is limited to 40 shots, but can you reload during
a battle?

There will be a micro line hose to connect the tank and marker.
I think there is a way to vent the air using this hose?
Would that work as the air supply shut off required by the rules?

What are people using for an air shut off?


Thanks
Mark

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[TANKS] How Much Air Do I Need??

2010-03-30 Thread Mark_123521
I am building the turret on my M1A1 Abrams tank.
I have a 22 cubic inch, high pressure, air tank I would like to use.
It will give about 80 shots. Refilling air is no problem, as I own a
carbon fiber, 4500 PSI, 30 minute, SCBA tank.

Will 80 shot air tank capacity be enough??
I know the Magazine is limited to 40 shots, but can you reload during
a battle?

There will be a micro line hose to connect the tank and marker.
I think there is a way to vent the air using this hose?
Would that work as the air supply shut off required by the rules?

What are people using for an air shut off?


Thanks

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[TANKS] How big should my Air supply be?

2010-03-30 Thread Mark_123521
I am building the turret for my M1A1 Abrams tank.
I can fit in a 22 cubic high pressure tank or a 47  cu inch tank.
There is space for ether tank, but I prefer the small one.
Its good for about 80 shots.
I have a 4500 psi carbon fiber, bulk tank (30 minute, SCBA,
firefighters tank), so refilling in the field is no problem.

Heres my question:
  Is 80 shots out of the small tank enough for a battle?
I know the magizine is limited 40 balls, but can you reload during a
battle?

Thanks!
Mark

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[TANKS] Air Supply Question ??????

2010-03-30 Thread Mark_123521
I am building the turret on my M1A1 Abrams tank.
I have a 22 cubic inch, high pressure, air tank I would like to use.
It will give about 80 shots. Refilling air is no problem, as I own a
carbon fiber, 4500 PSI, 30 minute, SCBA tank.

Will 80 shot air tank capacity be enough??
I know the Magazine is limited to 40 shots, but can you reload during
a battle?

There will be a micro line hose to connect the tank and marker.
I think there is a way to vent the air using this hose?
Would that work as the air supply shut off required by the rules?
Does a quick disconnect  count as  the air shutoff ??

What are people using for an air shut off?


Thanks
Mark

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[TANKS] Paintball Air Supply Questions

2010-03-30 Thread Mark_123521
I am building the turret on my M1A1 Abrams tank.
I have a 22 cubic inch, high pressure, air tank I would like to use.
It will give about 80 shots. Refilling air is no problem, as I own a
carbon fiber, 4500 PSI, 30 minute, SCBA tank.

Will 80 shot air tank capacity be enough??
I know the Magazine is limited to 40 shots, but can you reload during
a battle?

There will be a micro line hose to connect the tank and marker.
I think there is a way to vent the air using this hose?
Would that work as the air supply shut off required by the rules?

What are people using for an air shut off?


Thanks

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[TANKS] Air Supply Question

2010-03-30 Thread Mark_123521
I am building the turret on my M1A1 Abrams tank.
I have a 22 cubic inch, high pressure, air tank I would like to use.
It will give about 80 shots. Refilling air is no problem, as I own a
carbon fiber, 4500 PSI, 30 minute, SCBA tank.

Will 80 shot air tank capacity be enough??
I know the Magazine is limited to 40 shots, but can you reload during
a battle?

There will be a micro line hose to connect the tank and marker.
I think there is a way to vent the air using this hose?
Would that work as the air supply shut off required by the rules?

What are people using for an air shut off?


Thanks

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[TANKS] Air Supply

2010-03-30 Thread Mark_123521
I am building the turret on my M1A1 Abrams tank.
I have a 22 cubic inch, high pressure, air tank I would like to use.
It will give about 80 shots. Refilling air is no problem, as I own a
carbon fiber, 4500 PSI, 30 minute, SCBA tank.

Will 80 shot air tank capacity be enough??
I know the Magazine is limited to 40 shots, but can you reload during
a battle?

There will be a micro line hose to connect the tank and marker.
I think there is a way to vent the air using this hose?
Would that work as the air supply shut off required by the rules?
Does a quick disconnect count as a shut off?

What are people using for an air shut off?


Thanks
Mark

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[TANKS] 900 MHZ radio link and robot controller $75 on ebay

2010-03-22 Thread Mark_123521
on ebay:

A robot controller and 900 MHZ controler

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=320503790759

This is the second listing @ $75

Is this thing useful to anyone here??

Mark

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[TANKS] Paintball Gun Mounting Question

2010-03-18 Thread Mark_123521
Has anyone tried this?

I am building one of those low profile modern tanks -- M1A1 Abrams.
Theres not much head room in the turret to mount the marker and feed
system.

Why couldnt a guy mount the paintball marker in the lower hull and
shoot the paintball through a hose?
The hose would connect to a barrel in the turret and the gun would be
mounted under the turret where theres plenty of room?
The gun could rotate with the turret or the gun could be fixed mounted
and the  hose could have a rotary connection.
The hose would allow flexability to elevate the gun.

I have ordered a lazy Susan turntable with a 6 inch hole in it.
This would allow some room to pass the hose through.

I have machine tools in the basement and can build about anything to
make the hose idea work.

Could you shoot the paintball through a hose and not have it break up
going through the curves??

Mark

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[TANKS] Re: Paintball Gun Mounting Question

2010-03-18 Thread Mark_123521
Derek:

  I thought Blackwater was out of business!
What would you do over there, or cant you tell me without being
required to kill me?

Mark

On Mar 18, 7:14 pm, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:
 The other issue is that the tube would compress when it bends causing the
 internal
 space to compress.  How do I know?  I was trying to look for a way to feed
 the top
 of my gun using a large diameter rubber hose.  There are types of hoses that
 wouldn't
 do that, but they also don't want to bend very well either.  You would need
 some bend
 in the tube to compensate for the raising and lowering.  I'm having issues
 fitting my
 magazine in since the gun of the KV-2 is mounted really high in the turret.
 My problem
 is reliably feeding the gun during elevation.  10 degrees isn't that much
 elevation, but I
 have a lot of depression on the gun.  The difference between the two is
 causing the issues.
 I could limit the depression, but I want to be able to hit targets within a
 couple of feet of the
 tank.  The feed angle that works for the depression of the gun doesn't
 always work for the
 raising of the gun and vise versa.  At this point, I'm not sure if I'll
 solve the problem before
 I have to go off to work in the big sand box (just got a contract job for a
 year in Afghanistan).

 Derek
 T065



 On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 6:45 PM, Mike Måne mike082...@gmail.com wrote:
  I'm no expert, but I think it would be very difficult to prevent the
  ball from bursting on the curve. Even if it happened to survive the
  journey, it probably will lose so much energy that it simply flings
  out of the barrel. The best way would be to load the balls into the
  straight, rigid barrel, rather than anywhere in or before the curved,
  flexible hose. Do you think you could build a loading mechanism and
  hopper in the turret? Keep in mind that Article III, Section 1, Line
  'f.' of the Rules states that ...The maximum elevation of any
  paintball marker will be 10 degrees, which isn't much of an
  elevation, especially if the fulcrum is toward the front of the gun.

  -Mike M.

  On 18/03/2010, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
   Has anyone tried this?

   I am building one of those low profile modern tanks -- M1A1 Abrams.
   Theres not much head room in the turret to mount the marker and feed
   system.

   Why couldnt a guy mount the paintball marker in the lower hull and
   shoot the paintball through a hose?
   The hose would connect to a barrel in the turret and the gun would be
   mounted under the turret where theres plenty of room?
   The gun could rotate with the turret or the gun could be fixed mounted
   and the  hose could have a rotary connection.
   The hose would allow flexability to elevate the gun.

   I have ordered a lazy Susan turntable with a 6 inch hole in it.
   This would allow some room to pass the hose through.

   I have machine tools in the basement and can build about anything to
   make the hose idea work.

   Could you shoot the paintball through a hose and not have it break up
   going through the curves??

   Mark

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[TANKS] Re: Paintball Gun Mounting Question

2010-03-18 Thread Mark_123521
Derek:

WoW thats cool!!
But theres no girls and no booze and theres the IED's.
We know that your qualified to work on remote control, tracked
vehicles  -- like bomb defusing robots??!!!
I'll bet the pay is fantastic!!!


Mark

On Mar 18, 7:32 pm, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:
 Network and computer installations and maintenance on the forward operating
 bases.  Not sure yet on my deployment date.

 Derek
 T065

 On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 7:22 PM, Mark_123521
 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.netwrote:



  Derek:

   I thought Blackwater was out of business!
  What would you do over there, or cant you tell me without being
  required to kill me?

  Mark

  On Mar 18, 7:14 pm, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:
   The other issue is that the tube would compress when it bends causing the
   internal
   space to compress.  How do I know?  I was trying to look for a way to
  feed
   the top
   of my gun using a large diameter rubber hose.  There are types of hoses
  that
   wouldn't
   do that, but they also don't want to bend very well either.  You would
  need
   some bend
   in the tube to compensate for the raising and lowering.  I'm having
  issues
   fitting my
   magazine in since the gun of the KV-2 is mounted really high in the
  turret.
   My problem
   is reliably feeding the gun during elevation.  10 degrees isn't that much
   elevation, but I
   have a lot of depression on the gun.  The difference between the two is
   causing the issues.
   I could limit the depression, but I want to be able to hit targets within
  a
   couple of feet of the
   tank.  The feed angle that works for the depression of the gun doesn't
   always work for the
   raising of the gun and vise versa.  At this point, I'm not sure if I'll
   solve the problem before
   I have to go off to work in the big sand box (just got a contract job for
  a
   year in Afghanistan).

   Derek
   T065

   On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 6:45 PM, Mike Måne mike082...@gmail.com wrote:
I'm no expert, but I think it would be very difficult to prevent the
ball from bursting on the curve. Even if it happened to survive the
journey, it probably will lose so much energy that it simply flings
out of the barrel. The best way would be to load the balls into the
straight, rigid barrel, rather than anywhere in or before the curved,
flexible hose. Do you think you could build a loading mechanism and
hopper in the turret? Keep in mind that Article III, Section 1, Line
'f.' of the Rules states that ...The maximum elevation of any
paintball marker will be 10 degrees, which isn't much of an
elevation, especially if the fulcrum is toward the front of the gun.

-Mike M.

On 18/03/2010, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 Has anyone tried this?

 I am building one of those low profile modern tanks -- M1A1 Abrams.
 Theres not much head room in the turret to mount the marker and
  feed
 system.

 Why couldnt a guy mount the paintball marker in the lower hull and
 shoot the paintball through a hose?
 The hose would connect to a barrel in the turret and the gun would be
 mounted under the turret where theres plenty of room?
 The gun could rotate with the turret or the gun could be fixed
  mounted
 and the  hose could have a rotary connection.
 The hose would allow flexability to elevate the gun.

 I have ordered a lazy Susan turntable with a 6 inch hole in it.
 This would allow some room to pass the hose through.

 I have machine tools in the basement and can build about anything to
 make the hose idea work.

 Could you shoot the paintball through a hose and not have it break up
 going through the curves??

 Mark

 --
 You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group.
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ME as the subject.- Hide quoted text -

   - Show quoted text -

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[TANKS] Re: Paintball Gun Mounting Question

2010-03-18 Thread Mark_123521
Derek:

Sounds like an adventure of a lifetime!
Go for it!

Mark


On Mar 18, 8:59 pm, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:
 Well, I'm married so that rules out the girl thingand I really don't
 drink much so that's
 really not an issue either...;)  Robotic work would be out of scope of the
 contract so I
 doubt that would happen.  Yeah, the pay is good.  My wife said that I would
 never make
 more than her now that she has her PharmD degree (PhD in pharmacy).  I guess
 she
 was wrong.  :)

 Derek
 T065

 On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 7:46 PM, Mark_123521
 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.netwrote:



  Derek:

  WoW thats cool!!
  But theres no girls and no booze and theres the IED's.
  We know that your qualified to work on remote control, tracked
  vehicles  -- like bomb defusing robots??!!!
  I'll bet the pay is fantastic!!!

  Mark

  On Mar 18, 7:32 pm, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:
   Network and computer installations and maintenance on the forward
  operating
   bases.  Not sure yet on my deployment date.

   Derek
   T065

   On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 7:22 PM, Mark_123521
   gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.netwrote:

Derek:

 I thought Blackwater was out of business!
What would you do over there, or cant you tell me without being
required to kill me?

Mark

On Mar 18, 7:14 pm, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:
 The other issue is that the tube would compress when it bends causing
  the
 internal
 space to compress.  How do I know?  I was trying to look for a way to
feed
 the top
 of my gun using a large diameter rubber hose.  There are types of
  hoses
that
 wouldn't
 do that, but they also don't want to bend very well either.  You
  would
need
 some bend
 in the tube to compensate for the raising and lowering.  I'm having
issues
 fitting my
 magazine in since the gun of the KV-2 is mounted really high in the
turret.
 My problem
 is reliably feeding the gun during elevation.  10 degrees isn't that
  much
 elevation, but I
 have a lot of depression on the gun.  The difference between the two
  is
 causing the issues.
 I could limit the depression, but I want to be able to hit targets
  within
a
 couple of feet of the
 tank.  The feed angle that works for the depression of the gun
  doesn't
 always work for the
 raising of the gun and vise versa.  At this point, I'm not sure if
  I'll
 solve the problem before
 I have to go off to work in the big sand box (just got a contract job
  for
a
 year in Afghanistan).

 Derek
 T065

 On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 6:45 PM, Mike Måne mike082...@gmail.com
  wrote:
  I'm no expert, but I think it would be very difficult to prevent
  the
  ball from bursting on the curve. Even if it happened to survive the
  journey, it probably will lose so much energy that it simply flings
  out of the barrel. The best way would be to load the balls into the
  straight, rigid barrel, rather than anywhere in or before the
  curved,
  flexible hose. Do you think you could build a loading mechanism and
  hopper in the turret? Keep in mind that Article III, Section 1,
  Line
  'f.' of the Rules states that ...The maximum elevation of any
  paintball marker will be 10 degrees, which isn't much of an
  elevation, especially if the fulcrum is toward the front of the
  gun.

  -Mike M.

  On 18/03/2010, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
   Has anyone tried this?

   I am building one of those low profile modern tanks -- M1A1
  Abrams.
   Theres not much head room in the turret to mount the marker and
feed
   system.

   Why couldnt a guy mount the paintball marker in the lower hull
  and
   shoot the paintball through a hose?
   The hose would connect to a barrel in the turret and the gun
  would be
   mounted under the turret where theres plenty of room?
   The gun could rotate with the turret or the gun could be fixed
mounted
   and the  hose could have a rotary connection.
   The hose would allow flexability to elevate the gun.

   I have ordered a lazy Susan turntable with a 6 inch hole in it.
   This would allow some room to pass the hose through.

   I have machine tools in the basement and can build about anything
  to
   make the hose idea work.

   Could you shoot the paintball through a hose and not have it
  break up
   going through the curves??

   Mark

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[TANKS] Re: M1A1 ABRAMS -- MORE PROGRESS, MORE PICTURES

2010-03-15 Thread Mark_123521
Jason:

Motors are 450 watt, 24 volt, geared about 7 to 1, maximum RPM = 550
#35 chain drive from the motor to the track drive sprocket is 1 to 1
ratio.
The track drive sprocket is 3 inch diameter, with 8 flats.
Theres 2  12 volt , 12AH batteries, but I have another set if need
them.
For another 16 pounds weight, I could have 24 AH capacity.

I think final weight will be about 135 pounds with 2 batteries, 150
with 4 batteries.

Mark

On Mar 14, 11:39 pm, Jason R Schafer jasonrscha...@gmail.com wrote:
 what are you using for motors?  what voltage?  what is the reduction from
 motor to final drive?  only one 12 amp hour battery?  What do you think the
 final weight will be?
 Thanks,
 Jason
 On Sun, Mar 14, 2010 at 5:54 PM, Mark_123521
 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.netwrote:



  Got some of the sheet metal done this week.
  Tank hull weighs about 100 pounds, as shown.
  This thing moves, it can easily spin the tracks on a fast start
  It tears the heck out of the lawn when you do a full skid turn.
  It has 12 amp hour batteries in it right now and I ran it hard for 45
  minutes - no sign of run down batteries. Installed a 30 amp circuit
  breaker for on/off control and circuit protection - works good - no
  trips.
  You can run it up the trunk of a tree until its higher than 45
  degrees!!!

  I'll start on the turret this week.

  ME SITTING ON TANK, I ACTUALY TOOK A RIDE
  The little dog belongs to my daughter.
 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/Meontank.jpg

  GOING OVER PARKING LOT BARRIERS:
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzLvXVVajUQ
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtSAa4eJvgs

  TANK GOING DOWN A 30 FOOT HILL @ 30 DEGREES ANGLE:
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QTgBzeI440

  Mark

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[TANKS] Re: M1A1 ABRAMS -- MORE PROGRESS, MORE PICTURES

2010-03-14 Thread Mark_123521
No, not the Interlox plastic track.

Home built, from scratch.
Started with treadmill belt.
Glued (super glue) on 76, 1 inch X 3.75 inch X .187 inch thick, PVC
plastic treads.
On the inside are 76 aluminum, T shaped track guides, pop rivited
on.
I built this alignment fixture:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0711.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0707.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0749.jpg

76 + 76 = 152 treads
76 + 76 = 152 machined aluminum track guides
152 + 152 = 304 pop rivits
about 60 or 70 hours to build.

Mark

On Mar 14, 7:00 pm, Saxondog blakebobb...@ymail.com wrote:
 Hello Mark.are you running the Intralox belting for tracks? It seems
 they do not grip very well on paved surfaces.Please advise Blake

 On Mar 14, 5:54 pm, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:



  Got some of the sheet metal done this week.
  Tank hull weighs about 100 pounds, as shown.
  This thing moves, it can easily spin the tracks on a fast start
  It tears the heck out of the lawn when you do a full skid turn.
  It has 12 amp hour batteries in it right now and I ran it hard for 45
  minutes - no sign of run down batteries. Installed a 30 amp circuit
  breaker for on/off control and circuit protection - works good - no
  trips.
  You can run it up the trunk of a tree until its higher than 45
  degrees!!!

  I'll start on the turret this week.

  ME SITTING ON TANK, I ACTUALY TOOK A RIDE
  The little dog belongs to my 
  daughter.http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/Meontank.jpg

  GOING OVER PARKING LOT 
  BARRIERS:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzLvXVVajUQhttp://www.youtube.com/watc...

  TANK GOING DOWN A 30 FOOT HILL @ 30 DEGREES 
  ANGLE:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QTgBzeI440

  Mark- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[TANKS] Re: M1A1 ABRAMS -- MORE PROGRESS, MORE PICTURES

2010-03-14 Thread Mark_123521

Saxondog:

The PVC plastic, when new, is very slippery.
After the tracks get run for a while, they get roughed up and the
surface has a little better grip.

GOING UP A TREE:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/photo.jpg
IT HAS GONE A LOT HIGHER THAN IN THE PHOTO.

Mark

On Mar 14, 7:00 pm, Saxondog blakebobb...@ymail.com wrote:
 Hello Mark.are you running the Intralox belting for tracks? It seems
 they do not grip very well on paved surfaces.Please advise Blake

 On Mar 14, 5:54 pm, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:



  Got some of the sheet metal done this week.
  Tank hull weighs about 100 pounds, as shown.
  This thing moves, it can easily spin the tracks on a fast start
  It tears the heck out of the lawn when you do a full skid turn.
  It has 12 amp hour batteries in it right now and I ran it hard for 45
  minutes - no sign of run down batteries. Installed a 30 amp circuit
  breaker for on/off control and circuit protection - works good - no
  trips.
  You can run it up the trunk of a tree until its higher than 45
  degrees!!!

  I'll start on the turret this week.

  ME SITTING ON TANK, I ACTUALY TOOK A RIDE
  The little dog belongs to my 
  daughter.http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/Meontank.jpg

  GOING OVER PARKING LOT 
  BARRIERS:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzLvXVVajUQhttp://www.youtube.com/watc...

  TANK GOING DOWN A 30 FOOT HILL @ 30 DEGREES 
  ANGLE:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QTgBzeI440

  Mark- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[TANKS] Re: cv9040 progress

2010-03-13 Thread Mark_123521
Leif:
 Your work is absolutly amazing
You chose a GREAT tank:

http://axiomsun.com/home/video/cv9040_tank_with_l70_40mm_cannon.html

Mark

On Mar 13, 6:07 am, Leif Westermark leif.westerm...@telia.com
wrote:
 the turret is under construction. wide but wery low, only 100mm (4 inch) 
 height inside.
 its going to be a challange to fit everything inside and make it work.

 http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad6/leffew63/S5002806.jpghttp://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad6/leffew63/S5002807.jpghttp://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad6/leffew63/S5002808.jpghttp://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad6/leffew63/S5002809.jpg

 Leif.

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[TANKS] Re: M1A1 Abrams -- Progress

2010-03-07 Thread Mark_123521

Ran the heck out of the tank hull.
The motors/ controler/ wireing dint even get warm!
Did a range test on radio, 100 yards and no problem.
Goes over the street curb with ease.

Tank running around in front yard:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7w2CrUYRtnk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRlCCT8tGsE

Mark

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[TANKS] Re: M1A1 Abrams -- Progress

2010-03-06 Thread Mark_123521
Leif:

Thanks!

Now I have a rolling chassis.
Theres tank tracks all over the snow in the back yard.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lze3rpkIMXg


Mark


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[TANKS] Re: M1A1 Abrams -- Progress

2010-03-06 Thread Mark_123521
Greg:

I posted the next video on U-tube.
Is it any better?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lze3rpkIMXg

Mark

On Mar 4, 9:52 pm, Gregory Kampjes sockles...@gmail.com wrote:
 Looking good.
 Just a suggestion, I've generally had a better experience with watching
 YouTube videos, as they load a lot faster. Also consider having the camera
 fixed, the video was a bit shaky at times.
 Regardless, the progress looks good.

 -Gregory

 On Fri, Mar 5, 2010 at 3:45 PM, Mark_123521 
 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.netwrote:





  Another video:
  It is 16 MB -- may take a while to load
  The drive gear ratio should produce 5.5 MPH

 http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/?action=view¤t=...

  Mark

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[TANKS] Re: M1A1 Abrams -- Progress

2010-03-06 Thread Mark_123521
Patron:
   Yah, its geared to go 5.5 MPH fully loaded.
Actual calculations are using the motors no load speed of 550RPM and
gives 5.8 MPH, but I know the motors going to slow down when running
loaded, and I hope to get 5.5 ??

Mark

On Mar 4, 9:55 pm, Patron saintofswitchbla...@tmail.com wrote:
 Looking good! Is the 5.5 fully built?





 On Thu, 4 Mar 2010 21:38, Mark_123521 wrote:
  Got a track on one side!

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0778.jpg
 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0773.jpg

  Video of track moving:
  Its running directly off a 6 volt battery.
  Hull is blocked from moving forward and track is skidding on the
  concrete.
  It is drawing 10 amps. The track running free (lifted off the ground)
  draws 3.5 amps.
  Hull as shown weighs 50 pounds + 7 pounds for the single track.
 http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/?action=view¤t=...

  Mark

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 horribly sick and die.- Hide quoted text -

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[TANKS] Re: M1A1 Abrams -- Progress

2010-03-06 Thread Mark_123521
Derek:

I tapped that dryer on the previous run, because both RC channels were
backwards.
I was surprised it moved.

Blew the budget today - bought 4 12 volt 12 AH batteries.
That will make 24 volts @ 24 Amp Hours.

Next, I need one of those spread spectrum 2.4 ghz , 6 channel radios.

Hows your plastic tank going? I dont know how you do it in a cold
garage!!

Mark

On Mar 6, 8:57 pm, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:
 What did the dryer do to you that you had to beat on it like that?  :)
 Nice work.  Seems like a nice quiet runner.

 Derek
 T065

 On Sat, Mar 6, 2010 at 8:49 PM, Mark_123521 
 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.netwrote:



  Patron:
    Yah, its geared to go 5.5 MPH fully loaded.
  Actual calculations are using the motors no load speed of 550RPM and
  gives 5.8 MPH, but I know the motors going to slow down when running
  loaded, and I hope to get 5.5 ??

  Mark

  On Mar 4, 9:55 pm, Patron saintofswitchbla...@tmail.com wrote:
   Looking good! Is the 5.5 fully built?

   On Thu, 4 Mar 2010 21:38, Mark_123521 wrote:
Got a track on one side!

   http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0778.jpg
   http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0773.jpg

Video of track moving:
Its running directly off a 6 volt battery.
Hull is blocked from moving forward and track is skidding on the
concrete.
It is drawing 10 amps. The track running free (lifted off the ground)
draws 3.5 amps.
Hull as shown weighs 50 pounds + 7 pounds for the single track.
   http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/?action=view¤t=...

Mark

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   horribly sick and die.- Hide quoted text -

   - Show quoted text -

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[TANKS] M1A1 Abrams -- Progress

2010-03-04 Thread Mark_123521
Got a track on one side!

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0778.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0773.jpg

Video of track moving:
Its running directly off a 6 volt battery.
Hull is blocked from moving forward and track is skidding on the
concrete.
It is drawing 10 amps. The track running free (lifted off the ground)
draws 3.5 amps.
Hull as shown weighs 50 pounds + 7 pounds for the single track.
http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/?action=viewcurrent=HPIM0775.flv


Mark

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[TANKS] Re: M1A1 Abrams -- Progress

2010-03-04 Thread Mark_123521

Another video:
It is 16 MB -- may take a while to load
The drive gear ratio should produce 5.5 MPH

http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/?action=viewcurrent=HPIM0774.flv

Mark

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[TANKS] Re: #50 Attachment Chain?

2010-03-02 Thread Mark_123521
I have priced the Japanise chain @ about $40 per foot.
I have priced the import chain (from Peer Chain) @ $20 / foot in 100
foot lots.
There is no such thing as $2 chain?

Mark

On Mar 1, 10:24 pm, Ben Holko b...@holnet.net wrote:
 One of you guys in the US needs to buy a bunch from China at $2 a foot and 
 on-sell it.

 Ben

 
 From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf 
 of Derek Engelhaupt [tan...@gmail.com]
 Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 3:02 PM
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] #50 Attachment Chain?

 Right now that's the million dollar question.  I'm having no luck finding 
 attachment chain for a decent price too.

 Derek
 T065

 On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 10:00 PM, Jeremy Caylor 
 nighthawk...@gmail.commailto:nighthawk...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hello everyone! I'm close to getting out of the Marine Corps, and I'm really 
 anxious to get to work on my Tiger again, but I've been thinking a lot about 
 the tracks. Looking at a few tanks on the site that use #50 attachment chain 
 (attachments every other link), I've decided this would be the best for my 
 tank. My only problem is: where do I find the chain? I've searched everywhere 
 but can't find a good source of it without spending a fortune. Does anyone 
 know where I can get some of the chain for a relatively decent price? Thanks!

 --
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[TANKS] Re: #50 Attachment Chain?

2010-03-02 Thread Mark_123521
Ben:
 Didnt someone here price chain there and they wanted a $2000 minimum
order??
Mark

On Mar 2, 5:11 pm, Ben Holko b...@holnet.net wrote:
  There is no such thing as $2 chain?

 yes there is:www.mccchain.com.tw

 I bought from there at about USD$2.30 per foot. I dealt with them wholly via 
 email, and a SWIFT transfer for payment. You will need to buy a fair bit 
 though to meet a minimum order, I purchased 40 feet and had to pay an 
 additional $100 minimum order fee. Even with that, and shipping (40 feet of 
 #50 chain is not light!) it was still over $150 cheaper than getting 
 something locally.

 Ben

 
 From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf 
 of Mark_123521 [gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net]
 Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2010 10:07 AM
 To: R/C Tank Combat
 Subject: [TANKS] Re: #50 Attachment Chain?

 I have priced the Japanise chain @ about $40 per foot.
 I have priced the import chain (from Peer Chain) @ $20 / foot in 100
 foot lots.
 There is no such thing as $2 chain?

 Mark

 On Mar 1, 10:24 pm, Ben Holko b...@holnet.net wrote:





  One of you guys in the US needs to buy a bunch from China at $2 a foot and 
  on-sell it.

  Ben

  
  From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on 
  behalf of Derek Engelhaupt [tan...@gmail.com]
  Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 3:02 PM
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
  Subject: Re: [TANKS] #50 Attachment Chain?

  Right now that's the million dollar question.  I'm having no luck 
  finding attachment chain for a decent price too.

  Derek
  T065

  On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 10:00 PM, Jeremy Caylor 
  nighthawk...@gmail.commailto:nighthawk...@gmail.com wrote:
  Hello everyone! I'm close to getting out of the Marine Corps, and I'm 
  really anxious to get to work on my Tiger again, but I've been thinking a 
  lot about the tracks. Looking at a few tanks on the site that use #50 
  attachment chain (attachments every other link), I've decided this would be 
  the best for my tank. My only problem is: where do I find the chain? I've 
  searched everywhere but can't find a good source of it without spending a 
  fortune. Does anyone know where I can get some of the chain for a 
  relatively decent price? Thanks!

  --
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[TANKS] Re: M1A1 Abrams -- Wide Open Spaces

2010-02-28 Thread Mark_123521
More progress on the M1A1 ABRAMS:

Track drive sprocket with brass bearing:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0771.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0770.jpg

Hull (a nautical term) with induvidaly adjustable front axles
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0761.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0767.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0768.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0766.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0765.jpg

I doubled up on suspension springs on one side and need to buy more
springs for the remaining side.
Now I can stand in the hull (a marine term) and the suspension
retracts but does not bottom out.

IN A FEW WEEKS I'LL HAVE THE TRACKS TURNING!!

Mark   K.M.S.M.A. (KISS MY SHINEY METAL POSTERIOR)




The crews gave naval terms to the parts of the tank: hatches,
hull, bows, bulkheads, fore, and aft.

 Tod (ex-Navy)  ;-)

 Doesn't surprise me, Clark.  Although, I've never accused any of my Marine 
 friends of being smart... :)  Sorry, couldn't resist.

 Derek (ex-Army)
 T065

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[TANKS] Re: Where to..

2010-02-27 Thread Mark_123521

I'll never pick up another Wii!!!
The last one I used cost me a $3000 check, to cover the 52 TV I
through it through!!
OOPS!
(You gotta remember to use the wrist strap - damn it!)


Mark

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[TANKS] Re: M1A1 Abrams -- Wide Open Spaces

2010-02-27 Thread Mark_123521
Phyl:
  It just looked easier to mount the motors to the hull sidewall.
Also, that allows the drive axle to be mounted closer to the hull end
(looks more like the real tank)
I hope the chain doesnt get fouled with twigs and debris
The track drive axle is dead  -- it does not rotate.
The drive sproket is made of UHMW polyethelene and rotates on the dead
axle - no bearings.
UHMW polyetheline is a good bearing material itself.

Mark

On Feb 25, 7:05 am, Phil sasquevane...@aol.com wrote:
 Looks good Mark. Why did you have an external drive chain as opposed
 to internal?

 Phil

 On Feb 22, 1:53 am, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:



  Made some good progress this week.
  Built the hull sides, mounted the motors, and installed the drive
  wheels axle.
  Built adjustable motor mounts, they have a chain adjustment of about
  1/2 inch.

  Got lots of space in the hull!!

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0753.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0755.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0756.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0757.jpg

  Mark- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[TANKS] Re: M1A1 Abrams -- Wide Open Spaces

2010-02-27 Thread Mark_123521
Steve:

When we get into battle, I'am gonna paint a sign on the rear of my
aluminum tank, just for you.

Bite My Shiney Metal Ass  :-) :-)

I'am about 2 weeks away from a rolling Chassis

Got the front axles and track tensioning built (it has individual
tensioning for the port and starboard tracks).

By the end of the weekend, I'll have the drive axle and drive
sprockets installed.

Whens the first battle of the season

Mark B.M.S.M.A

Mark


On Feb 25, 11:22 am, Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com wrote:
 Mark,

 I want to thank you for considering my worsening eyesight in the
 construction of your overly large target  I mean tank.  A paint
 scheme in neon orange would be appreciated!  ;-)

 Steve Tyng

 On Feb 21, 8:53 pm, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:



  Made some good progress this week.
  Built the hull sides, mounted the motors, and installed the drive
  wheels axle.
  Built adjustable motor mounts, they have a chain adjustment of about
  1/2 inch.

  Got lots of space in the hull!!

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0753.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0755.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0756.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0757.jpg

  Mark- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[TANKS] Re: M1A1 Abrams -- Wide Open Spaces

2010-02-27 Thread Mark_123521
Chris:

  Old habit, I used to be an officer on a ship in the Pacific Ocean.

Mark

On Feb 27, 9:22 pm, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:
 In a message dated 2/27/2010 10:05:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  

 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net writes:

 Got the  front axles and track tensioning built (it has individual
 tensioning for  the port and starboard tracks).

 your building a tank, not a ship...

 Chris,
 _Odyssey  Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html)

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[TANKS] M1A1 Abrams -- Wide Open Spaces

2010-02-21 Thread Mark_123521
Made some good progress this week.
Built the hull sides, mounted the motors, and installed the drive
wheels axle.
Built adjustable motor mounts, they have a chain adjustment of about
1/2 inch.

Got lots of space in the hull!!


http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0753.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0755.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0756.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0757.jpg

Mark

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[TANKS] Re: KV-2 update

2010-02-21 Thread Mark_123521
Derek:

  Nice work!!
That PVC plastic is cool stuff, strong, glues easly, cuts nice, impact
resistant, and I see it bends well. It looks like a good choice for
building a tank.
Your plastic tank is looking good!

How hard was it to get good bends for your turret? How did you heat it
for the bends?

Mark

On Feb 20, 11:34 am, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:
 whoops...sage=sag

 Derek



 On Sat, Feb 20, 2010 at 11:33 AM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:
  Phil  the tracks weren't connnected, so they don't sage quite so much when
  they are.
  The attachment chain tracks can sage since they do not come off the
  sprockets.  Yes,
  it is an ugly tank, but it does have tons of room.  I'll easily get a
  20oz. CO2 bottle in
  there to feed the gun.

  Chris, yes that is frost.  We are renting a place on a lake since we had to
  move for my
   wife to find work.  Still haven't sold our house way up north.  This place
  has a detached
  3 stall garage with no heat.  My garage in my house was attached and
  heated.  Boy I
  miss it.  It was about 10 degrees outside last night when I was working.  I
  only have a
  dual head sunflower type portable LP heater that I use.  It can bring the
  temp up in the
  garage to about 40 degrees after a couple of hours.  I work wearing my
  Carhart pants,
  jacket, insulated hunting boots, ski hat, and gloves.  Not sure why anyone
  in their right
  mind would install new garage doors in MN that aren't insulated.  I put up
  plastic sheeting
  between the stalls so I'm only heating the one stall.

  As far as the velcro is concerned, I put a strip all the way across both
  the front and rear edge
  of the top.  The top is very snug since I rough cut the shape and hand
  fitted it to the top by
  sanding the edges on a belt sander.  It was a lot of work, but I wanted the
  seal tight to keep
  paint out.

  Derek
  T065

  On Sat, Feb 20, 2010 at 9:34 AM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:

   is that a bad case of frost on the garage door?

  looks good in plastic

  as to the lid, how much velco did you use?

  Chris,
  Odyssey Slipways http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html

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[TANKS] Re: Motor Controllers

2010-02-21 Thread Mark_123521
Fred:

 After you brought up wheelchair controllers, I did some looking
around.
Check out curtis controller on EBAY or curtis instruments on the
web.
They make controllers for mobility scooters all the way up to electric
fork truck controllers (400 amps!!!).
 I go to a local scrapyard to get materials for my projects.
I know they have at least 3 or 4 of the big fork truck controlers (on
fork trucks)in there.
They are too big for our tanks, but I can buy them for $10 each and
sell on EBAY for over $100.
Just a way to finance this expensive hobby!

Mark

On Feb 10, 4:33 pm, Fred Thomson f...@thomson-online.org wrote:
 Mark,

  I was pretty disappointed with the initial performance and started
 digging around with the settings. It was a big suprise at the amount
 of speed you can get. What is really neat is that you can program your
 turns. :-)

  Honestly, I don't know which one would be good or bad. I've got three
 now, though. :-)

 On Feb 8, 6:57 pm, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:



  Fred:

  Sounds like your on to something!
  I would have never guessed they were programmable.
  It's ideal, a two channel, 24 volt, high current, programable, motor
  controler!
  What brand is good?

  Mark

  On Feb 8, 10:19 am, Fred Thomson f...@thomson-online.org wrote:

   Hi Mark,

    The interesting thing about wheelchair controllers is they are
   programmable. Most are setup ultra conservative form the factory or
   dealer. The joystick is programmed with a delay so that accidental
   activation does not launch the chair like a race car, this can be
   reset. The motors are typically set to 50 to 70% of max rpm as well as
   50 to 60% torque for forward speed and less for reverse. The are also
   set to reach max rpm very gradually. Braking can be setup to either
   coast to a stop or slam to a stop. Turning is also setup
   conservatively.

    In the test I did, I rest all the values for top speed (both in High
   and Low range), turning, and acceleration to their respective max
   values. I then set the braking to 10%. This worked wonders as the
   motors now have no delay once the joystick is pushed forward and hit
   max rpm in about 2 seconds. Fully proportional speed control. :-)

    I have thought about controlling the POTS directly but I am unsure
   how to do this (still searching the internet, tho) and I am leery
   about ripping apart the joystick as I don't have a spare in case
   (when?) I screw it up. I thought that for proof-of-concept using a
   mechanical joystick control will do.

    The real trick to all this is either getting a programming unit with
   the controller or sweet-talking the nearest dealer into it. The dealer
   may refuse due to liability issues as he only has your word it won't
   go into a chair and injure the occupant or someone else. I imagine if
   you show up with it INSTALLED in a tank they *might* accommodate you.
   Otherwise, your choices are limited to finding someone with the
   programming unit for your controller or biting the bullet and buying
   one, which can be as much as the cost of a speed controller.
   Fortunately, one of the speed controllers came with the programming
   unit.

    I bought two de-commissioned power wheelchairs, for less than the
   fuel to go 40km to pick them up, with the understanding that they
   would not be repaired and sold. Both were fully functional, even the
   batteries are good.

   Cheers,
   Fred- Hide quoted text -

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[TANKS] Re: Road Wheels and Suspension

2010-02-17 Thread Mark_123521
Steve:

Those are electric bicicle motors, 450 watts, 24 volts.

http://www.electricscooterparts.com/motors.html#top

They have a 7 or 8 to 1 gearing built in.
550 RPM and 4.5 inch pounds of torque per amp.

Mark

On Feb 17, 12:11 pm, steveh ste...@avdesigners.com wrote:
 Mark, what kind of motors are those in the pictures?
 Thank You

 On Feb 11, 10:08 pm, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:



  Check out the progress.
  I have just completed a bar with my suspension and road wheels.
  The suspension has a travel of 1.25 inches.
  Each wheel has an initial force of 10 pounds and a fully retracted
  force of 14 pounds.
  See how the road wheels engage the track guide tabs.

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0726.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0725.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0724.jpghttp://i1...

  Mark- Hide quoted text -

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[TANKS] Re: Road Wheels and Suspension

2010-02-17 Thread Mark_123521
Steve:
  This is my first tank,so I am not an expert.
For goning in a straight line it should not take a big motor, but a
pivot-in-place type turn is another situation. A Pivot-in-place
turn is going to take a LOT of torque.

My setup will produce about 80 pounds of force at the track (without
overloading the motor too much). My tank will weigh about 150 pounds.
Hopefully, 80 pounds will be enough to pivot-in-place.

The force you get on the track is the inch pounds torque of the motor
times the final drive ratio and divided by the radus (in inches) of
the track drive sprocket.

 My tank:
  track drive sprocket = 1.5 inch radius
  full load motor torque = 84 inch pounds
  Final drive ratio = 1

force on the track = 84 inch pounds X 1 divided by 1.5 = 56 pounds

If I overload the motor by 40% then I end up with about 80 pounds
force on the track.
I am hoping that will be enough to skid turn (pivot-in-place).

A 175 pound tank will be harder to skid turn than a 150 pound tank. A
lighter tank will turn easier.
The way I fiuure it, my 150 pound tank has 75 pounds sitting on each
track. With 75 pounds on the track, can 80 pounds force on the track
make it skid?

If I change the final drive gear ratio to 2 to 1 then I could get 2 X
80 pounds = 160 pounds force on the track. The trade off is it also
cuts the top speed in half.

Anyway, all of this is just mathamatical guess (bull s---t).
I have my fingers crossed that these motors (and the final drive ratio
 track sprocket size) will work OK.

The other guys here could answer your question better than me.

Mark



On Feb 17, 4:32 pm, steveh ste...@avdesigners.com wrote:
 Mark, thanks for the response.  Since I am not sure about the torque,
 let me see if you can answer my question.  The unit I am building
 Is projected to weigh in at around 175lbs.  I only need to be
 able to achieve a speed a little faster then walking.  Do you
 think that motor would be sufficient?
 Thanks
 Steve

 On Feb 17, 5:11 pm, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:



  Steve:

  Those are electric bicicle motors, 450 watts, 24 volts.

 http://www.electricscooterparts.com/motors.html#top

  They have a 7 or 8 to 1 gearing built in.
  550 RPM and 4.5 inch pounds of torque per amp.

  Mark

  On Feb 17, 12:11 pm, steveh ste...@avdesigners.com wrote:

   Mark, what kind of motors are those in the pictures?
   Thank You

   On Feb 11, 10:08 pm, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

Check out the progress.
I have just completed a bar with my suspension and road wheels.
The suspension has a travel of 1.25 inches.
Each wheel has an initial force of 10 pounds and a fully retracted
force of 14 pounds.
See how the road wheels engage the track guide tabs.

   http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0726.jpg

   http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0725.jpg

   http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0724.jpghttp://i1...

Mark- Hide quoted text -

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[TANKS] Re: Road Wheels and Suspension

2010-02-17 Thread Mark_123521
Steve:

   To figure out how fast your tank will go:
take the diameter of your track drive sprocket and multiply by 3.14
and that gives you the distance the tank will move for each revolution
of the drive sprocket.

Track sprocket diameter(in inches) X 3.14 = inches the tank will
travel for each revolution of the sprocket.

For my tank:
  track sprocket diameter = 3 inches

3 x 3.14 = 9.42 inches per revolution of the sprocket.

my motor goes 550 RPM, so the tank will go 9.42 inches 550 times each
minute

9.42 X 550 = 5181 inches in a  minute

5181 inches X 60 minutes per hour = 310860 inches per hour

310860 inches per hour  divided by 12 inches per foot = 25905 feet per
hour

25905 feet per hour divided by 5280 feet per mile = 4.9 miles per
hour


So my tank should go about 4.9 miles per hour.

Just more mathamatical B.S.

Mark

On Feb 17, 4:32 pm, steveh ste...@avdesigners.com wrote:
 Mark, thanks for the response.  Since I am not sure about the torque,
 let me see if you can answer my question.  The unit I am building
 Is projected to weigh in at around 175lbs.  I only need to be
 able to achieve a speed a little faster then walking.  Do you
 think that motor would be sufficient?
 Thanks
 Steve

 On Feb 17, 5:11 pm, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:



  Steve:

  Those are electric bicicle motors, 450 watts, 24 volts.

 http://www.electricscooterparts.com/motors.html#top

  They have a 7 or 8 to 1 gearing built in.
  550 RPM and 4.5 inch pounds of torque per amp.

  Mark

  On Feb 17, 12:11 pm, steveh ste...@avdesigners.com wrote:

   Mark, what kind of motors are those in the pictures?
   Thank You

   On Feb 11, 10:08 pm, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

Check out the progress.
I have just completed a bar with my suspension and road wheels.
The suspension has a travel of 1.25 inches.
Each wheel has an initial force of 10 pounds and a fully retracted
force of 14 pounds.
See how the road wheels engage the track guide tabs.

   http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0726.jpg

   http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0725.jpg

   http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0724.jpghttp://i1...

Mark- Hide quoted text -

   - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

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[TANKS] Re: Road Wheels and Suspension

2010-02-16 Thread Mark_123521
Derek  Clark:

  Ok, I get it. Thanks for the advice!.
I allready have $30 into springs. May have to invest more.

The lever arms are drilled for 2 springs, but I would need to add
another anchor screw to hold the other end of the spring. I better do
that now while it is easy to work on the suspension bar.

What about ground clearence? Any thoughts??

Mark

On Feb 16, 4:56 am, Clark Ward Jr ki4...@gmail.com wrote:
 Also, when you hit a bump, the front springs take a bunch of load.
 --
 Clark in Georgia

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[TANKS] Re: Road Wheels and Suspension

2010-02-16 Thread Mark_123521
Thanks Clark!


On Feb 16, 9:52 am, Clark Ward Jr ki4...@gmail.com wrote:
 My sherman (not yet rolling) has 2 inches maybe 2.5 of ground
 clearance when loaded.

 --
 Clark in Georgia

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[TANKS] Re: Road Wheels and Suspension

2010-02-15 Thread Mark_123521
The bottom hull plate is .093 inch thick aluminum.
The ends need to be bent up. A buddy of mine is loaning a sheet metal
brake tomorrow.
The motors are 450 watt, geared. 550 RPM.
The white drive sprockets will run on fixed axle shafts.

So far I have:
motors  motor controler
Radio
Track drive and Idler sprockets
Motor sprockets and chain
Suspension system with road wheels.
Tracks (but not spliced into a loop)
Aluminum hull bottom .093 thick (needs to be bent)
Aluminum plate for the hull sides - .125 thick (but not cut yet)
Aluminum plate for the hull top - .093 thick (but not cut and bent)

I still gotta buy batteries,- waiting to see how uch room I have in
the hull.
Four 9AH batteries will fit 2 wide and 2 deep. Looks like two 18AH
batteries will not fit 2 wide, so they will take up too much space.

I WILL make battles this summer!

Mark

On Feb 15, 8:32 pm, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 Derek:

 I have 16 road wheels, each with an initial force of 10 pounds.
 That should support 160 pounds tank weight.
 I hope it doesnt get over that!!??
 There are extra holes in the lever arms so I can double up on the
 springs, if needed.

 Cut the hull bottom yesterday.
 Check out the pictures, the suspension bars temporarly clamped to the
 hull bottom.

 I'll have the rolling chassis in about 3 weeks or so.

 What is a good ground clearance
 Scale is 2.7 inches ground clearance. The width of the hull is 12
 inches, measured from inside of track to inside of track. Overall
 width is 20.5 inches. Overall length is 42 inches.

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0737.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0735.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0734.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0737.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0733.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0749.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0746.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0738-1.jpg

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0729.jpg

 Mark

 On Feb 12, 1:16 am, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:



  Looks good Mark, but I think you will find that those springs might be a tad
  bit weak
  by the time you get the hull and batteries loaded on them.  Getting the
  spring tension
  correct on a suspended tank is a bit of a PITA.  I have found that I always
  need springs
  that are stronger than the ones I have :)

  Derek
  T065

  On Thu, Feb 11, 2010 at 9:08 PM, Mark_123521
  gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.netwrote:

   Check out the progress.
   I have just completed a bar with my suspension and road wheels.
   The suspension has a travel of 1.25 inches.
   Each wheel has an initial force of 10 pounds and a fully retracted
   force of 14 pounds.
   See how the road wheels engage the track guide tabs.

  http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0726.jpg

  http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0725.jpg

  http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0724.jpg
  http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0706.jpg

   Mark

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[TANKS] Road Wheels and Suspension

2010-02-11 Thread Mark_123521
Check out the progress.
I have just completed a bar with my suspension and road wheels.
The suspension has a travel of 1.25 inches.
Each wheel has an initial force of 10 pounds and a fully retracted
force of 14 pounds.
See how the road wheels engage the track guide tabs.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0726.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0725.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0724.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0706.jpg


Mark

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[TANKS] Re: Motor Controllers

2010-02-08 Thread Mark_123521
Fred:

Sounds like your on to something!
I would have never guessed they were programmable.
It's ideal, a two channel, 24 volt, high current, programable, motor
controler!
What brand is good?

Mark

On Feb 8, 10:19 am, Fred Thomson f...@thomson-online.org wrote:
 Hi Mark,

  The interesting thing about wheelchair controllers is they are
 programmable. Most are setup ultra conservative form the factory or
 dealer. The joystick is programmed with a delay so that accidental
 activation does not launch the chair like a race car, this can be
 reset. The motors are typically set to 50 to 70% of max rpm as well as
 50 to 60% torque for forward speed and less for reverse. The are also
 set to reach max rpm very gradually. Braking can be setup to either
 coast to a stop or slam to a stop. Turning is also setup
 conservatively.

  In the test I did, I rest all the values for top speed (both in High
 and Low range), turning, and acceleration to their respective max
 values. I then set the braking to 10%. This worked wonders as the
 motors now have no delay once the joystick is pushed forward and hit
 max rpm in about 2 seconds. Fully proportional speed control. :-)

  I have thought about controlling the POTS directly but I am unsure
 how to do this (still searching the internet, tho) and I am leery
 about ripping apart the joystick as I don't have a spare in case
 (when?) I screw it up. I thought that for proof-of-concept using a
 mechanical joystick control will do.

  The real trick to all this is either getting a programming unit with
 the controller or sweet-talking the nearest dealer into it. The dealer
 may refuse due to liability issues as he only has your word it won't
 go into a chair and injure the occupant or someone else. I imagine if
 you show up with it INSTALLED in a tank they *might* accommodate you.
 Otherwise, your choices are limited to finding someone with the
 programming unit for your controller or biting the bullet and buying
 one, which can be as much as the cost of a speed controller.
 Fortunately, one of the speed controllers came with the programming
 unit.

  I bought two de-commissioned power wheelchairs, for less than the
 fuel to go 40km to pick them up, with the understanding that they
 would not be repaired and sold. Both were fully functional, even the
 batteries are good.

 Cheers,
 Fred

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[TANKS] Re: Motor Controllers

2010-02-07 Thread Mark_123521
Fred:

  Dont those wheelchair motors turn too slow?
Most of the ones I see are 120 RPM -- a little slow for a tank?
The controler should be plenty big enough for a tank.
Could you remove the pots from the joystick control and drive the pot
directly (rotational) by the servo? It might give better control than
operating the joystick from levers.

I see wheelchair controlers on Ebay all the time, and  much cheeper
than buying a dual channel proportional controller. Figure it out for
all of us!

Mark

On Feb 7, 11:31 am, Fred Thomson f...@thomson-online.org wrote:
 The progress on this is going ok. The first thing to do was to make
 sure all these used electronics were working. Having done that I set
 about doing a rough design of the joystick control. I know I can
 remove th joystick and control the POTS directly with the servos but
 that will have to wait till Version Two Point Oh. Even managed to get
 some batteries. :-)

 http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat/web/Ariete_Joystick.jpg?h...

  Although I have scads of room in the hull of the Ariete, I wanted to
 use a smaller controller. One of the ones we had fit this requirement.
 The Pilot+ motor controller is a mere  180mm (7) L x 95mm (3.7) W x
 46mm (1.8) H and has no special mounting requirements. The joystick
 (is the approx shape in the jpeg) is 158mm (6.2) L x 77mm (3.0) W x
 151 (5.9) H but this can be reduced by quite a lot by merely
 relocating the electronics to a custom made box.
  The biggest surprise was the motors. Right angle gear head with a
 beautiful 3/4 diameter keyed shaft. This means I can mount the drive
 hubs directly to the shafts. I will post the motor specs later.
 Even managed to get some batteries.

 Cheers,
 Fred

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[TANKS] Re: Possible source for new electric motors

2010-01-26 Thread Mark_123521
Those bums are only doing it for the $105,000,000 government grant!
We are still waiting for the volt - the most hyped up car in the
history of automaking.
I am sure it will be a disapointment -- The main limitation on
electric cars is not the motor, its the battery. No battery exists
today that will go far enough or last longenough for the automotive
application.
 I am waiting for someone to develop the Electric motor in the wheel
hub concept.
You get true 4 wheel drive, regenerative breaking, anti-lock breaking,
and stability control in one package.

Mark

On Jan 26, 3:04 pm, copperhead martin.hels...@earthlink.net wrote:
 This looks promising but the cost and/or scale may be an issue ...

 http://money.cnn.com/2010/01/26/autos/gm_electric_motors/index.htm?hp...

 :D

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[TANKS] Building Tracks is a Lot of Work

2010-01-24 Thread Mark_123521
Building tracks for y M1A1 Abrams.
Using treadmill belt.
Cut the track guides out of an aluminum extrusion.
The treads are cut from .187 PVC sheet and are 1 inch X 3.75 inches.
The treads and track guides are super glued and pop rivited to the
treadmill belt.

Sure wish I could find some attachment chain - This takes a lot of
time!

See the tread spacing jig I built from 1/2 inch thick clear lexan.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0703.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0700.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0702.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0690.jpg

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[TANKS] Building Tracks is a Lot of Work and Money

2010-01-24 Thread Mark_123521
Alluminum extrusion  = $ 28   (from the scrap yard)
Tread mill belt   = $ 16   (off EBAY)
PVC sheet (treads) = $ 60   (from Grangers Industrial supply)
Super glue   = $ 20
Pop rivits = $ 20
TOTAL=$144.00

 I have 50 hours of construction time so far, and another 30 or so to
complete.

Yesterday, I bought a used, RoboteQ, AX2550 dual channel, 120 amp,
motor controler.

Got the suspension system figured out and prototyped, but not built.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0705.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0706.jpg

I got 2, 450 watt, geared scooter motors.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/yhst-92821211804676_2083_16903969.jpg



MARK

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[TANKS] Building track - pictures

2010-01-24 Thread Mark_123521
Watching Kelley's Heros (you know Shermans vs. Tigers) on TV and
assembling track.


http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0711.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0707.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0710.jpg



I got 70 inches of track built.
I need 90 inches times two sides.

Mark

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[TANKS] Re: newbie alert!

2010-01-24 Thread Mark_123521
Dave:

  I bought these motors:
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-450-watt-brushless-electric-motor-9-tooth-chain-sprocket.html

I did some testing and they produce 4.5 inch pounds torque per amp.
They are rated at 19 amps, so they will produce about 80 inch pounds
at full 450 watt rating.

I am changing the sprockets to a heavier #35 chain.

Mark

On Jan 20, 1:53 pm, thenephili...@hotmail.com
thenephili...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Hi All

 Well my Tamiya completely failed to arrive =( So I have been studying
 the archives and the build pictures for ideas and to get some sort of
 reference on materials and how strength and lightness of build can be
 implemented. So my thoughts so far.

 Hull/Chassis = The base panel in 1/2ply. Front rear and sides in
 1/4. 1/4 Doublers to beef up corners and where the suspension ends
 fit in the hull sides. Formers to partition the space and add
 torsional rigidity to the hull. The formers will be 'holed' to reduce
 weight.

 Top = 4mm ply with 6mm doubler 'ring' for the hole where the turret
 will sit.

 Turret = 6mm Base and the rest in 3mm ply unless I bite the bullet and
 have ago at a fibreglass molding (possibly)

 Wheels = Wood, laminated for simple detail with the possibility of
 doing an ABS detail molding (possibly) I am going for the friction
 drive method with the 'belt' type tracks.

 Overall I intend to build the 'whole' without detail. If it gets that
 far and works then detail pieces can be added.

 Now I have been trawling for motors ideas but could do with a bit of a
 steer as in what are you using, where did you get it, are they readily
 available and this is within the UK please. I am looking for 12V
 motors and I have found some 12V ones but have no idea as to their
 physical size but I do know they aren't geared so this is also
 something that needs considering as space for gearing may be needed
 and this will have a bearing on the scale of the build and or the
 internal layout of the hull structure to suit.

 carry on sanding!

 Dave

 On Jan 19, 8:18 pm, thenephili...@hotmail.com



 thenephili...@hotmail.com wrote:
  Now that is a smart idea =D Along similar lines I import PCB patterns
  into my circuit design software. Trace over it with the tracks and
  then adjust or 'redesign' the circuit layout to suit my needs/
  preferences before getting 'my' version printed for toner transfer. I
  have a scanner up in the attic I may dig it out and see what I can do.

  regards

  Dave

  On Jan 19, 8:10 pm, Morgan, John jmor...@greeley-hansen.com wrote:

   I just scan in the sprues and then scale the scans up in CAD.  I can then 
   trace them (in CAD) to make a pattern and then adjust it as necessary due 
   to materials, size etc.  See my Sherman HVSS sprue attached.  The higher 
   the resolution, the easier it is to scale.

   Regards,

   John

   -Original Message-
   From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
   [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
   thenephili...@hotmail.com
   Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 3:04 PM
   To: R/C Tank Combat
   Subject: [TANKS] Re: newbie alert!

   Thanks for all the info Chaps!

   I spy 'inexpensive' markers =D An hours running and firing seems 
   adequate. I presume that using PWM speed controllers would give a 
   significant increase, subject to driving style, in duration? I don't 
   think I can afford the PWM method anyway but out of interest..

   With reference to 'tweaking' the scale of portions of the build to suit 
   hardware needs this was used quite a bit with some of the builds (R/C 
   Aircraft) to help with the 'moments' and fitting the glow motors.
   It's amazing what you can get away withunless the local 'rivet 
   counter' happens to be in the area =D

   My Tamiya Challenger failed to arrive today and I had my digi calipers, 
   steel rule and protractor ready =D =(

   regards

   Dave

   On Jan 19, 7:20 pm, neroc funkyne...@ntlworld.com wrote:
Just popping my head up from the sweat and toil of working on phil`s
Hetzer ;0) (To57 for those who dont know) .
A general ballpark answer to your battery question Dave , in the
battles I have been involved in where a 12v tank is used , in this
case my Marder ( To68 ) .One 18 Amp hour will easly last one hour long
battle , possibly longer ,much depends on the way you battle
,personaly I tend to speed to a safe place and then stay there till i
see fit to move on. not everyone is the same .
I use pairs of 7 or 12 Amp hour batteries at 24 v in my Leopard ( To51
) but if I build another Tank it will be designed to hold 18amp hour
batteries because they can be charged quicker ( High amp chargers
dammage smaller AH batteries im told ). a rough price rule of thumb is
£10 per 6 Amp hour at 12v Redarding fitting Paintball markers and
gravity feed trays into the turrets of 3 feet tanks , I just made me
Leopard turret a little taller than it should be when I 

[TANKS] Re: #2060 attachment chain

2010-01-06 Thread Mark_123521
It's on ebay, listed as:
Rexnord Table Top Chain SS 1864AK3-1/2 ASSY w/SSTP NIB!

I just bought 20 feet for $113.00 shipped.
I'll see how it works!



http://pt.rexnord.com/products/e-catalog/sproducts.aspx?srch=1864AK3-1/4
http://pt.rexnord.com/products/e-catalog/sproducts.aspx?
srch=1864AK3-...
chtype=2srchscope=Keyword srchtype=2srchscope=Keyword


It is #60 carbon steel chain with a snap on stainless steel table
top.


It is 3.25 inch wide and weighs 2.5 pounds per foot - TOO HEAVY


Over 100 feet of this stuff is available for about $65 / 10 foot box
-
shipped.




Mark




On Jan 6, 8:22 pm, Mike Mangus mikem5...@yahoo.com wrote:
 2.5 pounds per foot.  A single track for the Merkava would weigh somewhere 
 around 22.5 pounds.  Both tracks together would be 45 pounds!

 
 From: Clark Ward Jr ki4...@gmail.com
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Wed, January 6, 2010 9:09:28 PM
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: #2060 attachment chain



  Is it too heavy?
  Will the “snap-on” table top pop off in use?
  Will it dig in and not slip sideways on a turn?

 1) Heavy? Meh.  More POWER, Igor!!

 2) If the table snaps off too easily, I'm betting a quick afternoon of
 the wire-feed welder's gentle caress will fix that.

 3) Good question.

 If someone coordinates, I can send a check or USPS money order for 20
 feet worth, today.  :)

 --
 Clark in Georgia
 --
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[TANKS] Re: #2060 attachment chain

2010-01-06 Thread Mark_123521

Additional information:

Specifications on table top chain on ebay:
http://pt.rexnord.com/products/e-catalog/sproducts.aspx?srch=1864AK3-1/4srchtype=2srchscope=Keyword


It's on ebay, listed as:
Rexnord Table Top Chain SS 1864AK3-1/2 ASSY w/SSTP NIB!

Mark



On Jan 6, 10:12 pm, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 It's on ebay, listed as:
 Rexnord Table Top Chain SS 1864AK3-1/2 ASSY w/SSTP NIB!

 I just bought 20 feet for $113.00 shipped.
 I'll see how it works!

 http://pt.rexnord.com/products/e-catalog/sproducts.aspx?srch=1864AK3-1/4
 http://pt.rexnord.com/products/e-catalog/sproducts.aspx?
 srch=1864AK3-...
 chtype=2srchscope=Keyword srchtype=2srchscope=Keyword

 It is #60 carbon steel chain with a snap on stainless steel table
 top.

 It is 3.25 inch wide and weighs 2.5 pounds per foot - TOO HEAVY

 Over 100 feet of this stuff is available for about $65 / 10 foot box
 -
 shipped.

 Mark

 On Jan 6, 8:22 pm, Mike Mangus mikem5...@yahoo.com wrote:



  2.5 pounds per foot.  A single track for the Merkava would weigh somewhere 
  around 22.5 pounds.  Both tracks together would be 45 pounds!

  
  From: Clark Ward Jr ki4...@gmail.com
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
  Sent: Wed, January 6, 2010 9:09:28 PM
  Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: #2060 attachment chain

   Is it too heavy?
   Will the “snap-on” table top pop off in use?
   Will it dig in and not slip sideways on a turn?

  1) Heavy? Meh.  More POWER, Igor!!

  2) If the table snaps off too easily, I'm betting a quick afternoon of
  the wire-feed welder's gentle caress will fix that.

  3) Good question.

  If someone coordinates, I can send a check or USPS money order for 20
  feet worth, today.  :)

  --
  Clark in Georgia
  --
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  Visit the group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat- Hide quoted 
  text -

 - Show quoted text -
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[TANKS] Re: #2060 attachment chain

2010-01-04 Thread Mark_123521
I need about 18 feet also.

I called tsubaki (http://www.ustsubaki.com/) a week ago.
They make chain.

Their list price was $47 per foot !!

WHAT??? Too expensive for me!! -- gotta find some used chain.


Mark


On Jan 4, 12:44 pm, amigaman andyman61...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Looking to get some of this type of chain  Can anyone point me in the
 right direction with a reasonable cost.  Need enough for 66 tracks
 total.

 Andy

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[TANKS] Re: Rubber for Wheels

2010-01-04 Thread Mark_123521
heres some gum rubber tubing from McMaster Carr Supply:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#gum-rubber-tubing/=58f32j

Mark


On Jan 4, 10:30 am, Morgan, John jmor...@greeley-hansen.com wrote:
 Hi all,

 I nearly have the suspension done for the Sherman.  I need to get rubber for 
 the wheels.  The wheels are 2.75 in diameter and 1.25 in width.  I would 
 love to get an elastic band so the rubber would be seamless, but have had no 
 luck finding such.  If any of you have ideas, let me know.

 Thank you,

 John Morgan
 Richmond, VA

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[TANKS] Re: ProtoType Suspension System

2010-01-04 Thread Mark_123521
you guys are right, A thin plastic washer is what it needs.
or bushings in the pivot hole.

Mark

On Jan 4, 11:16 am, SteveH n1xnx...@gmail.com wrote:
 Two words, there: Nylon Washers. Won't be very visible even in the
 pix, but should eliminate any such wear issues.

 That's a stunningly simple and elegant suspension system, I must say.
 Of course, you'll want much stiffer springs on the first and last
 bogies.

 Regards, Steve

 On Jan 4, 3:26 am, Ben Holko b...@holnet.net wrote:



  That's a nice looking system, all aluminum always looks the goods :)

  I'd be a bit worried about the surface where the two pieces slide, it 
  will wear quickly wont it?

  Ben

  -Original Message-
  From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] 
  On Behalf Of Mark_123521
  Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 11:23 AM
  To: R/C Tank Combat
  Subject: [TANKS] ProtoType Suspension System

  Prototyped a suspension system today.
  It has a 1 inch thick aluminum bar that all boggies will be built on.
  The drive sprocket, rear sprocket, and track tensioning system will also 
  mount on this bar.
  It will be a complete track system that will bolt to the outside of the 
  hull.

   http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0698.jpghttp://i1...

  The boggie has 1.3 inch travel and a compressed wheel pressure of 14 pounds.
  There are positive travel stops (up and down) built into the 1 inch bar.
  The lever bar is pivoted on a shoulder bolt, and a 3/8 inch shoulder bolt 
  is the wheel axle.
  The lever bar is 3/4 X 5/8 X 5 inch aluminum.
  The springs are captive in pockets on both sides.

  Mark

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 - Show quoted text -

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[TANKS] ProtoType Suspension System

2010-01-03 Thread Mark_123521
Prototyped a suspension system today.
It has a 1 inch thick aluminum bar that all boggies will be built on.
The drive sprocket, rear sprocket, and track tensioning system will
also mount on this bar.
It will be a complete track system that will bolt to the outside of
the hull.

  http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0698.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0699.jpg

The boggie has 1.3 inch travel and a compressed wheel pressure of 14
pounds.
There are positive travel stops (up and down) built into the 1 inch
bar.
The lever bar is pivoted on a shoulder bolt, and a 3/8 inch shoulder
bolt is the wheel axle.
The lever bar is 3/4 X 5/8 X 5 inch aluminum.
The springs are captive in pockets on both sides.

Mark

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[TANKS] Re: Building Track

2010-01-02 Thread Mark_123521
Chris:
  Thanks for the reply.
I spent half of the day going through old posts on suspension systems
-- theres a lot of good stuff here, if you dig it out.
Suspension does look cool!
I need to make a decision soon - suspension or not- so I dont get
stalled out on actually building a tank.

Thanks!
Mark

On Jan 2, 8:35 pm, Chris. b barthelso...@hotmail.com wrote:
 I like suspension simply for the fact it looks cool! people seemed to
 be impressed with complex moving parts...

 I have built a few tanks, my first had no suspension, it performed
 great, and trust me I beat that thing up all the time, it wasnt
 uncommon to see me out in the scrub trying to flip it over!

 I have also built a couple of suspended tanks, much more work and alot
 of moving parts that could potentially fail... The biggest advantage I
 have seen is the amount of extra traction you gain, it just hugs the
 ground better.

 All this in mind I do tend to pick suspended over rigidly mounted
 wheels.

 Chris. b

 On Jan 3, 4:23 am, Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:



  Trying to get started on my tank.
  Found an aluminum extrusion at the scrap yard that I can cut a T
  section out of.
  Its .090 thick and 2.4 inches wide.
  I cut up a bunch of track sections with a .625 tall tracking guide.
  They will get pop rivited to the 3.5 inch wide X .25 thick X 1 inch,
  PVC treads.
  Still looking for a treadmill belt.

 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/HPIM0690.jpghttp://i1...

  I have two of these motors coming in the 
  mail:http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/yhst-92821211804676_2...

  I have drawn up the sprockets in AutoCad.
  Still trying to design a suspension system.
  I see a lot of tanks on this site with No suspension.
  How valuable is suspension???

  You guys have a GREAT site here, a lot of good pictures  info!!

  Thanks!
  Mark  (near Chicago and its 5 degrees outside!)- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[TANKS] Re: 2060 Attachment Chain Search

2009-12-29 Thread Mark_123521
Derek,

Thanks for taking a run at getting chain!

I a also trying to get off the ground building a tank.

Need advice:

1.   Thinking about an M1 Abrams tank, but is it OK to model a non WW2
tank?

2.   M1 Abrams is a BIG tank -- 1/7 th scale makes it 44 inches long
(plus the gun barrel). Tub width = 13 inches wide @ 1/7 scale. Is
1/7th scale and 44 inches long gonna be OK? (I know the rules allow
variations from 1/6 scale, but is 44 inches too big?)

3.   I have some nice motors: 24 volt, 1100 RPM, 4 diameter, 7.5 inch
long(+ 1.25 inches for the shaft), full ball bearings, but they weigh
11.5 pounds each. Should only need 2 to 1 sprocket ratio. The motors
could be spaced fore and aft, rather than side by side as I see in
most designs.

4. I will go to the scrap yard tomorrow and purchase some 1/4 inch
aluminum plate for the Tub sidewalls and 3/16 plate for the tub
bottom.

5. On a previous trip to the scrapyard, I found an aluminum T shaped
extrusion that is 2.5 inches wide and .09 inch thick (purchased 16
feet of it). I think I can cut it into segments and use it for the
center guide on a TTS track. I have a sheet of 1/4 inch, gray, PVC
that I can cut into 3.5 inch wide by .75 long treads.
I can liminate the PVC treads with the treadmill track and aluminum
T segments to make track.

Have a Lathe and Milling machine in the basement, so working with
aluminum is no problem.

Could use all the advice I can get!

Thanks!
Mark


On Dec 29, 11:54 am, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:
 Well, they responded and I doubt I will do this since their minimum order to
 ship the the US is $3000.

 Dear Derek,

 Thank you very much for your email and we are glad to learn your interesting
 in our products of double pitch attachment chain.

 However, there is a min order q'ty as 200~300ft per size and US$3000 per
 shipment to make an oversea shipment. Could you let us know if there is any
 other chain items you need, we would like to make an offer at the same
 time. Here is our website,www.mccchain.com.tw, wish you can find more items
 you are interesting in.

 Taking this chance, we would like to learn more about your company. Please
 advise your company name, contact number, fax number and what brand of chain
 you are current using.

 Look forward to hear from you soon.

 With best regards,

 Erina Ou / Sales Dept
 Ming Chang Traffic Parts Mfg
 Web :www.mccchain.com.tw
 Fax + 886-8-7229920

 I have one more option to check into today.  I'll see what they say.

 Derek
 T065



 On Tue, Dec 29, 2009 at 10:59 AM, Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com wrote:
  I'll BUILD TTS track at those prices!  ;-)

  Steve TTS is BEST Tyng

  On Dec 28, 4:10 pm, wsmon...@aim.com wrote:
    I might have some more for sale at those prices.

   Will

   -Original Message-
   From: Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net
   To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
   Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2009 3:34 pm
   Subject: [TANKS] Re: 2060 Attachment Chain Search

   I just called tsubaki (http://www.ustsubaki.com/).
   They make chain.
   The sales person set me up with a part number C2060h k1 2l rb.
   It is 2060, double pitch, with an attachment every other link.
   Is that the right stuff?
   His list price was $47 per foot !!

   WHAT???

   Mark

   On Dec 22, 5:51 pm, Ben Holko b...@holnet.net wrote:
the stuff I bought from there was perfect, same quality as any local
  chain I
   have ever seen.


From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on
  behalf
   of odysseyslipw...@aol.com [odysseyslipw...@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 10:32 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] 2060 Attachment Chain Search

In a message dated 12/22/2009 4:40:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
   b...@holnet.net writes:http://www.mccchain.com.tw/english/1.htm

shipping will cost a bit, but depending on how much you buy you can
  save a
   lot, the chain is cheap. From memory I paid about USD$2 per foot for #50
   attachment chain.

Ben
at this point even if it was a unbeatable price, with the stuff that's
  been
   coming from China, i'd be a bit leery to buy from them

Chris,
Odyssey Slipwayshttp://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html

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[TANKS] Re: 2060 Attachment Chain Search

2009-12-28 Thread Mark_123521
I just called tsubaki (http://www.ustsubaki.com/).
They make chain.
The sales person set me up with a part number C2060h k1 2l rb.
It is 2060, double pitch, with an attachment every other link.
Is that the right stuff?
His list price was $47 per foot !!

WHAT???

Mark

On Dec 22, 5:51 pm, Ben Holko b...@holnet.net wrote:
 the stuff I bought from there was perfect, same quality as any local chain I 
 have ever seen.

 
 From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf 
 of odysseyslipw...@aol.com [odysseyslipw...@aol.com]
 Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 10:32 AM
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] 2060 Attachment Chain Search

 In a message dated 12/22/2009 4:40:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
 b...@holnet.net writes:http://www.mccchain.com.tw/english/1.htm

 shipping will cost a bit, but depending on how much you buy you can save a 
 lot, the chain is cheap. From memory I paid about USD$2 per foot for #50 
 attachment chain.

 Ben
 at this point even if it was a unbeatable price, with the stuff that's been 
 coming from China, i'd be a bit leery to buy from them

 Chris,
 Odyssey Slipwayshttp://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html

 --
 You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group.
 To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
 Visit the group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat

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