Re: [TANKS] Remote Triggering - R/C digital switch works fine ... I think!

2014-10-29 Thread Mike Lyons
I think Frank is onto something here.

Once I understood the active-low issue 

I tried holding my "fire" button down (to put the switch into the 
active-high state)
and manually pulling the trigger.

I also tried holding down the "fire" button and releasing it briefly,
assuming the reverse logic would work.

No luck.

The R/C switch is running off the 6 V R/C receiver power.
The marker has a 9 V battery for its supply.
The pull-up in the marker logic may be too much for the digital signal to 
overcome.
Interfacing systems with different signal levels is always a challenge.


On Saturday, October 11, 2014 8:08:40 PM UTC-4, Frank Pittelli wrote:
>
> Psst.   Weak pull-up.
>

On Friday, October 10, 2014 12:19:41 PM UTC-4, Mike Lyons wrote:
>
> ... 
>
Advanced challenge #1: Devise a diagnostic procedure using the existing 
setup to confirm your theory. 

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Re: [TANKS] Remote Triggering - R/C digital switch

2014-10-29 Thread Mike Lyons
The output of the Pololu switch is active-*high*.
The input to the marker is active-*low *(the trigger is a low-side switch).
The digital signal needs to be inverted.
(Note: The latest version of the Pololu series of switches has an 
"inversion" function
 but this changes the direction of the activation signal (from "above 
center' to "below center".
 I believe it addresses the need to flip the controls of a combat robot 
when it has been "inverted", *i.e.* turned upside down.)

I connected a 1K resistor to a +5V active digital output of a microprocessor
to feed the base of a small, general-purpose NPN transistor
connected across the trigger contacts (emitter to the black wire, *i.e.* 
marker ground)
of my electronic marker and it works fine.
A 1 ms "on" time (the shortest "pause" time on the PICAXE I'm using to 
test) is plenty.
I assume the same solution would work for the Pololu Digital Switch.

For this application (R/C firing of an electronic marker)
I recommend the Pololu Switch with Small Low-Side MOSFET.
The extra cost $1.26 more than the Digital Switch, less the resistor and 
transistor)
is justified by the simple implementation (see above 
 ).


On Friday, October 10, 2014 12:19:41 PM UTC-4, Mike Lyons wrote:
>
> ... 
>
Challenge: Explain the problem.  Hint:  All you need to know is in this 
> discussion thread over the last few days.
>


On Wednesday, October 8, 2014 2:38:02 PM UTC-4, Frank Pittelli wrote:
>
> The switch on the e-trigger is a standard active-low input to 
> a micro-processor I/O port

...

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Re: [TANKS] Remote Triggering - R/C digital switch works fine ... I think!

2014-10-11 Thread Frank Pittelli
Psst.   Weak pull-up.

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Re: [TANKS] Remote Triggering - R/C digital switch works fine ... I think!

2014-10-11 Thread 'jvragu47' via R/C Tank Combat


>
> Principals of Tri-Pact are not eligible to enter.
>
>
> On Wednesday, October 8, 2014 5:48:33 PM UTC-4, Mike Lyons wrote:
>>
>> ... 
>>
> Since I'm not an E-Guru as aptly put by Steve, this would be my solution.. 
>>
>
A larger hammer sir.   Did I win? LOL

John" I can bolt it, nail it , rivet it, hammer it and mold it with a 
dremel" Pittelli

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Re: [TANKS] Remote Triggering - R/C digital switch works fine ... I think!

2014-10-10 Thread Mike Lyons
oops ... the above should read "I tested the solution described below 
(4.1)" not "(4.2)".

>
>>

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Re: [TANKS] Remote Triggering - R/C digital switch works fine ... I think!

2014-10-10 Thread Mike Lyons
I tested the solution described below (4.2) today and it didn't work as 
expected ... but I believe it's a viable solution.
Whaaa  Stay tuned.

I built a Pololu R/C Switch with Digital Output.
The process was almost identical to the previous one for the Pololu MOSFET 
switch,
except I needed two 2-position screw terminals as the two connections I 
needed were not adjacent.
On the upside if I ever want to know the GOOD state and/or tap into the VCC 
it's ready to go.

I turned on the marker power and my remote controller.
When I turned on the power to the receiver (which also powers the switch 
board) the marker immediately fired.
The switch board blinked its LED briefly about once a second as specified.
I pressed the FIRE button on my controller and the switch board LED stayed 
on as specified while the button was pressed but the marker didn't fire.
I pressed the manual trigger on the marker and it fired once, but didn't 
fire one subsequent presses.
I pressed the FIRE button on my controller a few times and nothing.
I pressed the manual trigger and again it fired once but no more.

After scratching my head I realized the problem and a potential solution.

Challenge: Explain the problem.  Hint:  All you need to know is in this 
discussion thread over the last few days.
Advanced challenge #1: Devise a diagnostic procedure using the existing 
setup to confirm your theory.
Advanced challenge #2: Propose a solution using the existing hardware.
Principals of Tri-Pact are not eligible to enter.


On Wednesday, October 8, 2014 5:48:33 PM UTC-4, Mike Lyons wrote:
>
> ... 
>
4.1  Connect the output of a logic-level device (examples in 4 above) to 
> the high side of the trigger,
> and the ground of the device to the marker ground (the low side of the 
> trigger would be convenient).
> ...
>
>

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