Re: [RE-wrenches] Aluminum Roof shingles flashing
James, Can you better describe the aluminum shingles? Are they flat, or curved, or…? I'm looking at a project that is using these…metrotile_roman.cfm http://metroroofproducts.com/metrotile_roman.cfm Conergy is recommending their roman tile roof hook that mounts to the roof deck and curves out from under the shingle/tile for attaching the rails. Although Conergy's install manual states that these can be installed with the shingle/tiles already in place, the roofers I spoke with recommended installing the hooks while they are installing the shingles, so as to not damage the shingles by lifting them up and back to gain access to attach the roof hook to the roof. I prefer this approach since it would be the first time working on this roof material. Apparently these shingles cannot withstand a lot of weight without suffering damage, so it may be best to use a manlift. Hope this helps, Benn DayStar Renewable Energy Inc. www.daystarsolar.ca 780-906-7807 Certified Construction Electrician Solar Photovoltaic Systems Certified Certificate # 0007S HAVE A SUNNY DAY On 02/07/12 5:07 PM, James Reismiller ja...@abundantsolar.com wrote: HI All, I’m bidding a job that has an existing aluminum shingle roof. I’m wondering how to properly flash the penetrations, and what to use for standoffs. We typically use Unirac 2-piece aluminum standoffs with Oatey no-calks on a comp roof. We have used S5 VB-47’s for face-fastened metal roofs, but never encountered aluminum shingles yet. Ideas? Regards, James Reismiller NABCEP Certified Solar PV Installer® Abundant Solar 541-231-8772 CCB#175919 www.abundantsolar.com http://www.abundantsolar.com/abundantsolar/Home.html ”I’d put my money on the sun and solar energy. What a source of power! I hope we don’t have to wait until oil and coal run out before we tackle that.”-Thomas Edison ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org inline: image001.png___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
Yep, a properlysized pilot hole is the key. As far as I knowsplitting of rafters has not been a problem for me; it's not always possible to get inside to see. When the lag tightens down and doesn't spin out, Iassume it's good. Maybe we have better quality building supplies in Indiana. A lot of the Amish buildings that I install on are built with native lumber. It is generallyMUCH stronger than the knotty Home Depot variety, and a 2x4 really is 2x4. Thebenefits of a pilot holeare duly noted and accepted. I have the luxury of working in a market where I don't need to worry about inspectors finding fault with things just to justify their existence. God knows we do have that kind in Indiana too. 5 modules that I know of perished in our recent high winds: 3 are missing and presumed dead because the barn roof they were on is also missing. 1 was beaten to death because the customer screwed it down with screws intended to be used on steel roofing, and did not even hit a rafter. 1 well, may have been my fault. One lag pulled out and allowed the panel to bow and break. It's location shouldn'thave been a problemas far aswind is concerned. We apparently have lots of mini-twisters. Two or three trees in the middle of a woods were twisted together with the rest barely touched. We live and learn. My eyes have been opened to a few new things. Thanks. Original Message Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roofFrom: benn kilburn b...@daystarsolar.caDate: Mon, July 02, 2012 9:19 pmTo: RE-wrenches re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Mark, You wrote, "If you put the lag anywhere near the middle of the rafter it won't split. If it splits, it must be some cheap stuff from Home Depot. Only an engineer with no practical experience would insist on a pilot hole and the resulting reduction in holding strength." Drilling a properly sized and depth pilot hole will… -reduce the possibility of the rafter splitting, -reduce further opening an existing split and -reduce the chance of splitting a rafter when lagging directly into solid knot that will surely split without a pilot hole ...and if the whole roof is built with the same 'cheap stuff from home depot' then wouldn't you want to reduce the chance of every penetration/rafter splitting and compromising the integrity of the installation? A properly sizedpilot bit will not reduce the pullout or shear strength of a lag bolt. There are charts for reference for different types of wood. Anyone who works with wood and where splitting, structural or aesthetics are a concern (carpenter, cabinet maker, framer…rooftop PV installer) should know that wood splitting is significantly reduced when a pilot hole is used. It is a 'best practice' method. I don't sweat over using just L-feet, because when I do I'm confidant that I'm using an approved sealant and enough of it to make each hole I drill in the roof leak-free, but I will not deny that a flashed roof penetration is a superior and first choice method. Cheers, Benn DayStar Renewable Energy Inc. www.daystarsolar.ca 780-906-7807 Certified Construction Electrician Solar Photovoltaic Systems Certified Certificate # 0007S HAVE A SUNNY DAY On 02/07/12 4:40 PM, "m...@hurshtown.com" m...@hurshtown.com wrote: My 18V Milwaukee cordless hammer drill has no trouble driving a 5/16" lag into anything I've ever encountered. If you put the lag anywhere near the middle of the rafter it won't split. If it splits, it must be some cheap stuff from Home Depot. Only an engineer with no practical experience would insist on a pilot hole and the resulting reduction in holding strength. I'm assuming the IBC consists of a bunch of bureaucrats that value control over common sense. In this instance flashing offers no benefit, and may even be counter-productive if incorrectly installed and it causes rain to collect under it. My experience is in northern Indiana where it does rain and the wind does blow. (Record 91 mph winds last Thursday.) Less severe weather than Michigan, but close. I use the best silicone caulk Menards has to offer. I've never worried about compatibility. It definitely won't dry up and crack away like the black roof cement some swear by and insist on. 15+ year old silicone caulk is yellowed a bit but that's the only change. If the silicone and shingle aren't getting along, I've never heard them complain. Mark (Disclaimer: Portions of theprecedingare the opinions of the author.) Original Message Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roofFrom: Dave Click davecl...@fsec.ucf.eduDate: Mon, July 02, 2012 10:29 amTo: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.orgI always thought that installing lag screws was tough enough with pilot holes- I should hit the gym. I'm not a structural PE, but I think that not drilling pilot holes violates the American Wood Council's National Design Specs and therefore violates the IBC too. I would imagine that you'd be much more likely to split your
Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
I don't believe you are correct here. The body of the lag does not do anything for the holding power, it is the threads that prevent pullout. If you drive a 5/16 lag into a 3 x 8 without a pilot hole, you will be putting a lot of pressure into the wood to split it. It might not split every time, it might not split right then, but you are definitely introducing a lot of stress for no good reason. On any of these techniques for mounting, I want to follow the manufacturers recommendations, otherwise how can you be sure if you are right. Without a testing lab, you have no way to know. I think mounting PV systems IS a science project, it takes care and thought to do it right. We do a lot of concrete roof installations in hurricane areas, and mounting keeps me up at night. On Sun, Jul 1, 2012 at 9:13 PM, m...@hurshtown.com wrote: In my 20 year experience of lagging down L feet on shingle roofs in Indiana with a good dollop of silicone caulk under the foot, I've never had an issue. No pre-drilling, just drive the lag home. Drilling a hole first is not necessary, and reduces holding strength. No reason to make a science project out of it and increase cost and labor. Mark Original Message Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof From: Drake drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org Date: Fri, June 29, 2012 3:09 pm To: RE-wrenches re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Hi Jay, There is no room for flashings. The L feet will go very close to the skylights and the flashing would hit the edge of them. Plus there is an existing array that was done by another installer that is done with L feet only. The new array would be higher. And given that we have really good off the shelf approved flashed feet, why would you use anything else? My 2 cents, Jay peltz power On Jun 29, 2012, at 5:16 AM, Glenn Burt wrote: We have used a variety of sealants over the years, and determined simple Henry roofing cement is the best product for use on comp roofing. We also used to bend our own L-foot flashing, which we cut from standard Al coil stock (before all the manufactured options were available). This might be a good option for you in this case. Glenn *From:* re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org [ mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.orgre-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] *On Behalf Of *Drake *Sent:* Thursday, June 28, 2012 6:40 PM *To:* RE-wrenches *Subject:* [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof I'm quoting a job that has an existing array with L feet bolted down to a shingle roof with no flashings. I want to match the height of the existing array. Also some modules are being worked in around skylights where it is unlikely that room would be available for flashings to center over rafters. I've always used flashings. Would it be completely crazy to follow suit of the existing array and bolt L feet straight to the shingle roof with good roof sealant? If so, how would you seal it? ** Drake Chamberlin**** ATHENS ELECTRIC LLC OH License 44810**** CO license 3773 NABCEP Certified PV -- ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org ** ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org -- Chris Mason President, Comet Systems Ltd www.cometenergysystems.com Cell: 264.235.5670 Skype: netconcepts ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
Bill, Can you provide a link to the product you are using - I found a lot of screws on that site but none called structural. Thanks Chris On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 7:08 PM, Bill Hoffer suneng...@gmail.com wrote: Mark Lags for me are old hat after using the newer structural screws. I get them local from www.screw-products.com although I know there are more companies out there that make them for the Structural Insulation Panel industry. Thinner than lags with comparable strength, they drive easy with no predrilling, and are less likely to blow out a truss. Come in many different lengths and use a special star head with a built in washer. I use thick butyl tape on the foot and a small rubber washer on the screw head , together they work great! If you want a little more security a dab of the appropriate sealer in the foot slot before finally tightening it down works too. Only way to go on corrugated metal roofs where there is no real option for flashing. Bill On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 3:40 PM, m...@hurshtown.com wrote: My 18V Milwaukee cordless hammer drill has no trouble driving a 5/16 lag into anything I've ever encountered. If you put the lag anywhere near the middle of the rafter it won't split. If it splits, it must be some cheap stuff from Home Depot. Only an engineer with no practical experience would insist on a pilot hole and the resulting reduction in holding strength. I'm assuming the IBC consists of a bunch of bureaucrats that value control over common sense. In this instance flashing offers no benefit, and may even be counter-productive if incorrectly installed and it causes rain to collect under it. My experience is in northern Indiana where it does rain and the wind does blow. (Record 91 mph winds last Thursday.) Less severe weather than Michigan, but close. I use the best silicone caulk Menards has to offer. I've never worried about compatibility. It definitely won't dry up and crack away like the black roof cement some swear by and insist on. 15+ year old silicone caulk is yellowed a bit but that's the only change. If the silicone and shingle aren't getting along, I've never heard them complain. Mark (Disclaimer: Portions of the preceding are the opinions of the author.) Original Message Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof From: Dave Click davecl...@fsec.ucf.edu Date: Mon, July 02, 2012 10:29 am To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org I always thought that installing lag screws was tough enough with pilot holes- I should hit the gym. I'm not a structural PE, but I think that not drilling pilot holes violates the American Wood Council's National Design Specs and therefore violates the IBC too. I would imagine that you'd be much more likely to split your trusses. IBC also requires flashings be used but at least around here inspectors never ask for it (which makes sense- as you all know, Florida never sees wind or rain, and definitely not at the same time). What silicone do you use that's compatible with asphalt shingles? DKC On 2012/7/1 21:13, m...@hurshtown.com wrote: In my 20 year experience of lagging down L feet on shingle roofs in Indiana with a good dollop of silicone caulk under the foot, I've never had an issue. No pre-drilling, just drive the lag home. Drilling a hole first is not necessary, and reduces holding strength. No reason to make a science project out of it and increase cost and labor. Mark Original Message Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof From: Drake drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org mailto:drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.orgdrake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org Date: Fri, June 29, 2012 3:09 pm To: RE-wrenches re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.orgre-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Hi Jay, There is no room for flashings. The L feet will go very close to the skylights and the flashing would hit the edge of them. Plus there is an existing array that was done by another installer that is done with L feet only. The new array would be higher. And given that we have really good off the shelf approved flashed feet, why would you use anything else? My 2 cents, Jay peltz power On Jun 29, 2012, at 5:16 AM, Glenn Burt wrote: We have used a variety of sealants over the years, and determined simple Henry roofing cement is the best product for use on comp roofing. We also used to bend our own L-foot flashing, which we cut from standard Al coil stock (before all the manufactured options were available). This might be a good option for you in this case. Glenn *From:* re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.orgre-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.orgre-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org]
[RE-wrenches] Cheap Backup
Hello Wrenches, We are having a prolonged power outage due to the recent storm that ripped through the eastern U.S., and people with PV systems are contacting me about ways to harvest their solar. I'm investigating inexpensive ways to at least let people have power during the day. The only possible option that comes up so far is to use an inexpensive off grid inverter to set up a mini grid. Maybe set up a 24V unit with two small 12 V gel cells. AC couple the on grid inverter with the off grid in an essential loads panel. My questions are: * How big an inverter can go on how small a battery bank? * Would the Magnum be a good choice for this? * How much PV can you backfeed through a Magnum * Is there a better way to accomplish this? Thanks, Drake Drake Chamberlin ATHENS ELECTRIC LLC OH License 44810 CO license 3773 NABCEP Certified PV ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
Chris Bronze Star Construction Lags are what I use. I usually use the 5/16 and 1/4 with the most thread I can into the truss without popping out the other side. I have dropped to #7 with more penetrations if the truss warranted it. http://www.screw-products.com/star-drive-construction-lag-screws.htm Here is their strength tests for 5/16, very comparable to lags. I tend to be pretty conservative and use a 2x - 2.5x strength tests safety factor with almost all my fasteners, especially blind attachment to trusses. Full test results are available. http://www.screw-products.com/specs.htm I have had luck with Cannon gasket for butyl or EDPM washers, use .75 dia outer with dia of fastener inner about .25 thick. About $.15 each for 1000, about half that for 2500. Can order direct online. Buytl to me works better since it flows well when tightened. http://www.cannongasket.com/ I believe there are several manufacturers making these types of screws now, so there may be other sources. Hope that helps! Bill On Tue, Jul 3, 2012 at 6:43 AM, Chris Mason cometenergysyst...@gmail.comwrote: Bill, Can you provide a link to the product you are using - I found a lot of screws on that site but none called structural. Thanks Chris On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 7:08 PM, Bill Hoffer suneng...@gmail.com wrote: Mark Lags for me are old hat after using the newer structural screws. I get them local from www.screw-products.com although I know there are more companies out there that make them for the Structural Insulation Panel industry. Thinner than lags with comparable strength, they drive easy with no predrilling, and are less likely to blow out a truss. Come in many different lengths and use a special star head with a built in washer. I use thick butyl tape on the foot and a small rubber washer on the screw head , together they work great! If you want a little more security a dab of the appropriate sealer in the foot slot before finally tightening it down works too. Only way to go on corrugated metal roofs where there is no real option for flashing. Bill On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 3:40 PM, m...@hurshtown.com wrote: My 18V Milwaukee cordless hammer drill has no trouble driving a 5/16 lag into anything I've ever encountered. If you put the lag anywhere near the middle of the rafter it won't split. If it splits, it must be some cheap stuff from Home Depot. Only an engineer with no practical experience would insist on a pilot hole and the resulting reduction in holding strength. I'm assuming the IBC consists of a bunch of bureaucrats that value control over common sense. In this instance flashing offers no benefit, and may even be counter-productive if incorrectly installed and it causes rain to collect under it. My experience is in northern Indiana where it does rain and the wind does blow. (Record 91 mph winds last Thursday.) Less severe weather than Michigan, but close. I use the best silicone caulk Menards has to offer. I've never worried about compatibility. It definitely won't dry up and crack away like the black roof cement some swear by and insist on. 15+ year old silicone caulk is yellowed a bit but that's the only change. If the silicone and shingle aren't getting along, I've never heard them complain. Mark (Disclaimer: Portions of the preceding are the opinions of the author.) Original Message Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof From: Dave Click davecl...@fsec.ucf.edu Date: Mon, July 02, 2012 10:29 am To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org I always thought that installing lag screws was tough enough with pilot holes- I should hit the gym. I'm not a structural PE, but I think that not drilling pilot holes violates the American Wood Council's National Design Specs and therefore violates the IBC too. I would imagine that you'd be much more likely to split your trusses. IBC also requires flashings be used but at least around here inspectors never ask for it (which makes sense- as you all know, Florida never sees wind or rain, and definitely not at the same time). What silicone do you use that's compatible with asphalt shingles? DKC On 2012/7/1 21:13, m...@hurshtown.com wrote: In my 20 year experience of lagging down L feet on shingle roofs in Indiana with a good dollop of silicone caulk under the foot, I've never had an issue. No pre-drilling, just drive the lag home. Drilling a hole first is not necessary, and reduces holding strength. No reason to make a science project out of it and increase cost and labor. Mark Original Message Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof From: Drake drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org mailto:drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.orgdrake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org Date: Fri, June 29, 2012 3:09 pm To: RE-wrenches re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
I agree. I would drill a pilot for anything bigger than #12. 5/16 Lags get a 1/8 pilot minimum. Unfortunately, common 1/8 bits are usually pretty short and break off easily. Jason Szumlanski Fafco Solar On Tue, Jul 3, 2012 at 9:35 AM, Chris Mason cometenergysyst...@gmail.comwrote: I don't believe you are correct here. The body of the lag does not do anything for the holding power, it is the threads that prevent pullout. If you drive a 5/16 lag into a 3 x 8 without a pilot hole, you will be putting a lot of pressure into the wood to split it. It might not split every time, it might not split right then, but you are definitely introducing a lot of stress for no good reason. On any of these techniques for mounting, I want to follow the manufacturers recommendations, otherwise how can you be sure if you are right. Without a testing lab, you have no way to know. I think mounting PV systems IS a science project, it takes care and thought to do it right. We do a lot of concrete roof installations in hurricane areas, and mounting keeps me up at night. On Sun, Jul 1, 2012 at 9:13 PM, m...@hurshtown.com wrote: In my 20 year experience of lagging down L feet on shingle roofs in Indiana with a good dollop of silicone caulk under the foot, I've never had an issue. No pre-drilling, just drive the lag home. Drilling a hole first is not necessary, and reduces holding strength. No reason to make a science project out of it and increase cost and labor. Mark Original Message Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof From: Drake drake.chamber...@redwoodalliance.org Date: Fri, June 29, 2012 3:09 pm To: RE-wrenches re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Hi Jay, There is no room for flashings. The L feet will go very close to the skylights and the flashing would hit the edge of them. Plus there is an existing array that was done by another installer that is done with L feet only. The new array would be higher. And given that we have really good off the shelf approved flashed feet, why would you use anything else? My 2 cents, Jay peltz power On Jun 29, 2012, at 5:16 AM, Glenn Burt wrote: We have used a variety of sealants over the years, and determined simple Henry roofing cement is the best product for use on comp roofing. We also used to bend our own L-foot flashing, which we cut from standard Al coil stock (before all the manufactured options were available). This might be a good option for you in this case. Glenn *From:* re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org [ mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.orgre-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] *On Behalf Of *Drake *Sent:* Thursday, June 28, 2012 6:40 PM *To:* RE-wrenches *Subject:* [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof I'm quoting a job that has an existing array with L feet bolted down to a shingle roof with no flashings. I want to match the height of the existing array. Also some modules are being worked in around skylights where it is unlikely that room would be available for flashings to center over rafters. I've always used flashings. Would it be completely crazy to follow suit of the existing array and bolt L feet straight to the shingle roof with good roof sealant? If so, how would you seal it? ** Drake Chamberlin**** ATHENS ELECTRIC LLC OH License 44810**** CO license 3773 NABCEP Certified PV -- ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org ** ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org -- Chris Mason President, Comet Systems Ltd www.cometenergysystems.com Cell: 264.235.5670 Skype: netconcepts ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Home
Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
The EcoFasten GF1 flashing is easy to install on a retrofit and will not necessarily add any height to the rail. If you do need to trim the flashings installed around the skylight, then I would recommend adding sealant to these penetrations. We ditch the included lag and use a 5/16 GRK RSS (self tapping structural screw). The combination works great and does not require a pilot hole. RSS: http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/RSS_1_2_information.htm GF1 http://ecofastensolar.com/pdf/GF1%20Cutsheets.pdf Best, Garrison Riegel Project Manager Solar Service Inc [p] 847-677-0950 [f] 847-647-9360 www.solarserviceinc.com http://www.solarserviceinc.com/ NABCEP Certified Solar PV and Thermal InstallerT There is no room for flashings. The L feet will go very close to the skylights and the flashing would hit the edge of them. Plus there is an existing array that was done by another installer that is done with L feet only. The new array would be higher. _ ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
Getting back to the flashing aspect of this thread, the comment about improperly installed flashings doing more harm than good and the general comments about L feet straight to the roof… Yes, if you install ANYTHING wrong it's counterproductive but if you read the instructions and use common sense then flashing is a no-brainer. L feet straight to the roof not only voids roof warranties, but they also violate ALL roofing best practices and it makes our industry look bad. No roofer or roof manufacturer would ever hold a warranty on a roof with just L feet attached to it. We wouldn't want a roofer making electrical connections or designs on a PV system without the right training so why would we want to violate their standards when we penetrate their roofs? Ryan On 02/07/12 4:40 PM, m...@hurshtown.com m...@hurshtown.com wrote: My 18V Milwaukee cordless hammer drill has no trouble driving a 5/16 lag into anything I've ever encountered. If you put the lag anywhere near the middle of the rafter it won't split. If it splits, it must be some cheap stuff from Home Depot. Only an engineer with no practical experience would insist on a pilot hole and the resulting reduction in holding strength. I'm assuming the IBC consists of a bunch of bureaucrats that value control over common sense. In this instance flashing offers no benefit, and may even be counter-productive if incorrectly installed and it causes rain to collect under it. My experience is in northern Indiana where it does rain and the wind does blow. (Record 91 mph winds last Thursday.) Less severe weather than Michigan, but close. I use the best silicone caulk Menards has to offer. I've never worried about compatibility. It definitely won't dry up and crack away like the black roof cement some swear by and insist on. 15+ year old silicone caulk is yellowed a bit but that's the only change. If the silicone and shingle aren't getting along, I've never heard them complain. Mark (Disclaimer: Portions of the preceding are the opinions of the author.) ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
+1 on the use of structural screws. We ran an article about lag screws a couple years ago: http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP3_4_pg70_Shelly One of the things that surprised me when I read this manuscript is how variable lag screws are in terms of construction and quality. Besides the convenience of being able to drive a structural screw without a pilot hole, the engineering specs are likely better documented and the manufacturing tolerances are probably tighter as well. FWIW: I think that using unflashed attachments in these litigious times is unwise. It's not consistent with best practices in the construction industry. It does not meet building codes. It violates the roof warranty. It makes your competition look good. We ran our first article on this topic 4 years ago, in our inaugural issue of SolarPro magazine: http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP1_1_pg72_Fain The industry has come a long way since then, both in terms of awareness and in terms of off-the-shelf flashed attachment options. There are so many quality flashed attachment solutions to chose from now that I'm not sure why anyone would knowingly expose themselves to a possible construction negligence claim. Drive straight, David Brearley, Senior Technical Editor SolarPro magazine NABCEP Certified PV Installer ™ david.brear...@solarprofessional.com Direct: 541.261.6545 On Jul 3, 2012, at 4:11 PM, Garrison Riegel wrote: The EcoFasten GF1 flashing is easy to install on a retrofit and will not necessarily add any height to the rail. If you do need to trim the flashings installed around the skylight, then I would recommend adding sealant to these penetrations. We ditch the included lag and use a 5/16” GRK RSS (self tapping structural screw). The combination works great and does not require a pilot hole. RSS: http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/RSS_1_2_information.htm GF1 http://ecofastensolar.com/pdf/GF1%20Cutsheets.pdf Best, Garrison Riegel Project Manager Solar Service Inc [p] 847-677-0950 [f] 847-647-9360 www.solarserviceinc.com NABCEP Certified Solar PV and Thermal Installer™ “There is no room for flashings. The L feet will go very close to the skylights and the flashing would hit the edge of them. Plus there is an existing array that was done by another installer that is done with L feet only. The new array would be higher.” ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Kyocera KC 120-1R = 102 Watt
On Jun 28, 2012, at 11:11 AM, Marv Dargatz wrote: What is “peak volts” and “peak amps”? The only ratings that should apply here are Vmp and Imp. Plus, of course, deratings for temperature and correction for irradiance and angle of incidence. See ya! Marv I multiplied the labeled peak volts x the peak amps at STC. That is, using the stated data from label on back of module. Uh yeah, up here in Northern California, or at least the small padded room I'm in, peak volts and peak amps are the same as Vmp and Imp. I just got sloppy being way tired when I posted that. Even with that fuzzyness explained, the KC120-1R modules being sent as replacements are actually LABELED on back as putting out 102 watts at STC if you multiply the stated on the label. Yet it is called KC120-1R That is shocking and represents deliberate deception in my opinion. If any of you have replaced these faulty KC120s with KC120-1R then I encourage you to find out what the labeled Vmp x Imp is. If you want to open a can of worms that is. It may be these two are an anomaly. I am having the recipient of the batch in question confirm on those he has. Happy trails, Wallace Stahle Future Electric Energy Co P O Box 236 Willits, CA 95490 fut...@pacific.net CA Lic.# C10-762093 707-459-0474 ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
I haven't read up on the mentioned structural screws yet, but do they specifically state that they can be driven without a pilot hole? What is the justification and how are they different so that they won't cause a board to split under pressure? Does anyone have some good info on this? benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with tiny keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2012-07-03, at 3:53 PM, David Brearley david.brear...@solarprofessional.com wrote: +1 on the use of structural screws. We ran an article about lag screws a couple years ago: http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP3_4_pg70_Shelly One of the things that surprised me when I read this manuscript is how variable lag screws are in terms of construction and quality. Besides the convenience of being able to drive a structural screw without a pilot hole, the engineering specs are likely better documented and the manufacturing tolerances are probably tighter as well. FWIW: I think that using unflashed attachments in these litigious times is unwise. It's not consistent with best practices in the construction industry. It does not meet building codes. It violates the roof warranty. It makes your competition look good. We ran our first article on this topic 4 years ago, in our inaugural issue of SolarPro magazine: http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP1_1_pg72_Fain The industry has come a long way since then, both in terms of awareness and in terms of off-the-shelf flashed attachment options. There are so many quality flashed attachment solutions to chose from now that I'm not sure why anyone would knowingly expose themselves to a possible construction negligence claim. Drive straight, David Brearley, Senior Technical Editor SolarPro magazine NABCEP Certified PV Installer ™ david.brear...@solarprofessional.com Direct: 541.261.6545 On Jul 3, 2012, at 4:11 PM, Garrison Riegel wrote: The EcoFasten GF1 flashing is easy to install on a retrofit and will not necessarily add any height to the rail. If you do need to trim the flashings installed around the skylight, then I would recommend adding sealant to these penetrations. We ditch the included lag and use a 5/16” GRK RSS (self tapping structural screw). The combination works great and does not require a pilot hole. RSS: http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/RSS_1_2_information.htm GF1 http://ecofastensolar.com/pdf/GF1%20Cutsheets.pdf Best, Garrison Riegel Project Manager Solar Service Inc [p] 847-677-0950 [f] 847-647-9360 www.solarserviceinc.com NABCEP Certified Solar PV and Thermal Installer™ “There is no room for flashings. The L feet will go very close to the skylights and the flashing would hit the edge of them. Plus there is an existing array that was done by another installer that is done with L feet only. The new array would be higher.” ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Kyocera KC 120-1R = 102 Watt
OK, got it. The reason I asked, is some people in the past have used Isc and Voc to attempt a power calculation. Obviously very erroneous results with this. I agree that the labeling, as you've described it, is a bit misleading. Perhaps they just had a dyslexic person running the labeling machine. To some, 120 and 102 might look the same. I see errors like this way too frequently. Have you tested the modules for actual power output? See ya! Marv Director of Technology and Support, North America SolarEdge Technologies, Inc. Tech Support North America: +877.360.5292 Mobile: +530.392.0356 From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Wallace Stahle Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2012 3:36 PM To: RE-wrenches Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Kyocera KC 120-1R = 102 Watt On Jun 28, 2012, at 11:11 AM, Marv Dargatz wrote: What is peak volts and peak amps? The only ratings that should apply here are Vmp and Imp. Plus, of course, deratings for temperature and correction for irradiance and angle of incidence. See ya! Marv I multiplied the labeled peak volts x the peak amps at STC. That is, using the stated data from label on back of module. Uh yeah, up here in Northern California, or at least the small padded room I'm in, peak volts and peak amps are the same as Vmp and Imp. I just got sloppy being way tired when I posted that. Even with that fuzzyness explained, the KC120-1R modules being sent as replacements are actually LABELED on back as putting out 102 watts at STC if you multiply the stated on the label. Yet it is called KC120-1R That is shocking and represents deliberate deception in my opinion. If any of you have replaced these faulty KC120s with KC120-1R then I encourage you to find out what the labeled Vmp x Imp is. If you want to open a can of worms that is. It may be these two are an anomaly. I am having the recipient of the batch in question confirm on those he has. Happy trails, Wallace Stahle Future Electric Energy Co P O Box 236 Willits, CA 95490 fut...@pacific.netmailto:fut...@pacific.net CA Lic.# C10-762093 707-459-0474 CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This e-mail and its attachments are intended only for the use of the individual or entity who is the intended recipient and may contain information that is privileged, confidential and exempt from disclosure or any type of use under applicable law. If the reader of this e-mail is not the intended recipient, or the employee, agent, or representative responsible for delivering the e-mail to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, copying, or other use of this e-mail is strictly prohibited. If you have received this e-mail in error, please reply immediately to the sender. P Please think of the environment before printing this email ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
The GRK fasteners mentioned in a previous post associated with the Ecofasten flashing and L feet are self-drilling, but a pilot hole is still helpful in some instances. Very nice structural fasteners – high quality stainless, extremely course thread to increase pull out value and they use a T30 bit to drive. Rich From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Benn At DayStarSolar Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2012 6:36 PM To: RE-wrenches Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof I haven't read up on the mentioned structural screws yet, but do they specifically state that they can be driven without a pilot hole? What is the justification and how are they different so that they won't cause a board to split under pressure? Does anyone have some good info on this? benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with tiny keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2012-07-03, at 3:53 PM, David Brearley david.brear...@solarprofessional.com wrote: +1 on the use of structural screws. We ran an article about lag screws a couple years ago: http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP3_4_pg70_Shelly http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP3_4_pg70_Shelly One of the things that surprised me when I read this manuscript is how variable lag screws are in terms of construction and quality. Besides the convenience of being able to drive a structural screw without a pilot hole, the engineering specs are likely better documented and the manufacturing tolerances are probably tighter as well. FWIW: I think that using unflashed attachments in these litigious times is unwise. It's not consistent with best practices in the construction industry. It does not meet building codes. It violates the roof warranty. It makes your competition look good. We ran our first article on this topic 4 years ago, in our inaugural issue of SolarPro magazine: http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP1_1_pg72_Fain http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP1_1_pg72_Fain The industry has come a long way since then, both in terms of awareness and in terms of off-the-shelf flashed attachment options. There are so many quality flashed attachment solutions to chose from now that I'm not sure why anyone would knowingly expose themselves to a possible construction negligence claim. Drive straight, David Brearley, Senior Technical Editor SolarPro magazine NABCEP Certified PV Installer ™ david.brear...@solarprofessional.com Direct: 541.261.6545 On Jul 3, 2012, at 4:11 PM, Garrison Riegel wrote: The EcoFasten GF1 flashing is easy to install on a retrofit and will not necessarily add any height to the rail. If you do need to trim the flashings installed around the skylight, then I would recommend adding sealant to these penetrations. We ditch the included lag and use a 5/16” GRK RSS (self tapping structural screw). The combination works great and does not require a pilot hole. RSS: http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/RSS_1_2_information.htm GF1 http://ecofastensolar.com/pdf/GF1%20Cutsheets.pdf Best, Garrison Riegel Project Manager Solar Service Inc [p] 847-677-0950 [f] 847-647-9360 www.solarserviceinc.com http://www.solarserviceinc.com/ NABCEP Certified Solar PV and Thermal Installer™ “There is no room for flashings. The L feet will go very close to the skylights and the flashing would hit the edge of them. Plus there is an existing array that was done by another installer that is done with L feet only. The new array would be higher.” _ ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
Thanks for the information, I really like these fasteners. Bronze not stainless? We normally use stainless for everything. Given our coastal location, we want to avoid corrosion. On Tue, Jul 3, 2012 at 1:46 PM, Bill Hoffer suneng...@gmail.com wrote: Chris Bronze Star Construction Lags are what I use. I usually use the 5/16 and 1/4 with the most thread I can into the truss without popping out the other side. I have dropped to #7 with more penetrations if the truss warranted it. http://www.screw-products.com/star-drive-construction-lag-screws.htm Here is their strength tests for 5/16, very comparable to lags. I tend to be pretty conservative and use a 2x - 2.5x strength tests safety factor with almost all my fasteners, especially blind attachment to trusses. Full test results are available. http://www.screw-products.com/specs.htm I have had luck with Cannon gasket for butyl or EDPM washers, use .75 dia outer with dia of fastener inner about .25 thick. About $.15 each for 1000, about half that for 2500. Can order direct online. Buytl to me works better since it flows well when tightened. http://www.cannongasket.com/ I believe there are several manufacturers making these types of screws now, so there may be other sources. Hope that helps! Bill On Tue, Jul 3, 2012 at 6:43 AM, Chris Mason cometenergysyst...@gmail.comwrote: Bill, Can you provide a link to the product you are using - I found a lot of screws on that site but none called structural. Thanks Chris On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 7:08 PM, Bill Hoffer suneng...@gmail.com wrote: Mark Lags for me are old hat after using the newer structural screws. I get them local from www.screw-products.com although I know there are more companies out there that make them for the Structural Insulation Panel industry. Thinner than lags with comparable strength, they drive easy with no predrilling, and are less likely to blow out a truss. Come in many different lengths and use a special star head with a built in washer. I use thick butyl tape on the foot and a small rubber washer on the screw head , together they work great! If you want a little more security a dab of the appropriate sealer in the foot slot before finally tightening it down works too. Only way to go on corrugated metal roofs where there is no real option for flashing. Bill On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 3:40 PM, m...@hurshtown.com wrote: My 18V Milwaukee cordless hammer drill has no trouble driving a 5/16 lag into anything I've ever encountered. If you put the lag anywhere near the middle of the rafter it won't split. If it splits, it must be some cheap stuff from Home Depot. Only an engineer with no practical experience would insist on a pilot hole and the resulting reduction in holding strength. I'm assuming the IBC consists of a bunch of bureaucrats that value control over common sense. In this instance flashing offers no benefit, and may even be counter-productive if incorrectly installed and it causes rain to collect under it. My experience is in northern Indiana where it does rain and the wind does blow. (Record 91 mph winds last Thursday.) Less severe weather than Michigan, but close. I use the best silicone caulk Menards has to offer. I've never worried about compatibility. It definitely won't dry up and crack away like the black roof cement some swear by and insist on. 15+ year old silicone caulk is yellowed a bit but that's the only change. If the silicone and shingle aren't getting along, I've never heard them complain. Mark (Disclaimer: Portions of the preceding are the opinions of the author.) Original Message Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof From: Dave Click davecl...@fsec.ucf.edu Date: Mon, July 02, 2012 10:29 am To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org I always thought that installing lag screws was tough enough with pilot holes- I should hit the gym. I'm not a structural PE, but I think that not drilling pilot holes violates the American Wood Council's National Design Specs and therefore violates the IBC too. I would imagine that you'd be much more likely to split your trusses. IBC also requires flashings be used but at least around here inspectors never ask for it (which makes sense- as you all know, Florida never sees wind or rain, and definitely not at the same time). What silicone do you use that's compatible with asphalt shingles? DKC On 2012/7/1 21:13, m...@hurshtown.com wrote: In my 20 year experience of lagging down L feet on shingle roofs in Indiana with a good dollop of silicone caulk under the foot, I've never had an issue. No pre-drilling, just drive the lag home. Drilling a hole first is not necessary, and reduces holding strength. No reason to make a science project out of it and increase cost and labor. Mark Original Message Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in
Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
i wasn't going to enter into this discussion, but this posting prompted me. my most recent job was done with the assistance of the customer. he and i have a long working history, my being his employee some 25 years ago installing shw systems in the area, and now he hiring me to do his personal home's pv system. he insisted on straight L foot mounting without flashings... and i have to agree. in the 25 to 30 years since we did those shw systems, not a single one has leaked. plus, the installation was at the roof ridgeline, so pv quick mounts wouldn't have worked anyway. we put 2 X 8 blocking in the attic between the trusses to acomodate the mounting bolts and used a nice fattie gob of black silicone on each foot, which gooshed out when tightened. the mount will easily outlast the roof... leak free. honestly, i don't care what the ubc/ibs says. if done properly, these kinds of mounts are bombproof. years of experience backs this up. also, i have seen plenty of 'code compliant' oatey no-caulk sewer vent flashings with rotten rubber leaking into homes to know flashed penetrations are no panacea either. todd On Tuesday, July 3, 2012 2:53pm, David Brearley david.brear...@solarprofessional.com said: +1 on the use of structural screws. We ran an article about lag screws a couple years ago: [http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP3_4_pg70_Shelly] http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP3_4_pg70_Shelly One of the things that surprised me when I read this manuscript is how variable lag screws are in terms of construction and quality. Besides the convenience of being able to drive a structural screw without a pilot hole, the engineering specs are likely better documented and the manufacturing tolerances are probably tighter as well. FWIW: I think that using unflashed attachments in these litigious times is unwise. It's not consistent with best practices in the construction industry. It does not meet building codes. It violates the roof warranty. It makes your competition look good. We ran our first article on this topic 4 years ago, in our inaugural issue of SolarPro magazine: [http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP1_1_pg72_Fain] http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP1_1_pg72_Fain The industry has come a long way since then, both in terms of awareness and in terms of off-the-shelf flashed attachment options. There are so many quality flashed attachment solutions to chose from now that I'm not sure why anyone would knowingly expose themselves to a possible construction negligence claim. Drive straight, David Brearley, Senior Technical Editor SolarPro magazine NABCEP Certified PV Installer ™ [mailto:david.brear...@solarprofessional.com] david.brear...@solarprofessional.com Direct: 541.261.6545 On Jul 3, 2012, at 4:11 PM, Garrison Riegel wrote: The EcoFasten GF1 flashing is easy to install on a retrofit and will not necessarily add any height to the rail. If you do need to trim the flashings installed around the skylight, then I would recommend adding sealant to these penetrations. We ditch the included lag and use a 5/16” GRK RSS (self tapping structural screw). The combination works great and does not require a pilot hole. RSS: [http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/RSS_1_2_information.htm] http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/RSS_1_2_information.htm GF1 [http://ecofastensolar.com/pdf/GF1%20Cutsheets.pdf] http://ecofastensolar.com/pdf/GF1%20Cutsheets.pdf Best, Garrison Riegel Project Manager Solar Service Inc [p] 847-677-0950 [f] 847-647-9360 [http://www.solarserviceinc.com/] www.solarserviceinc.com NABCEP Certified Solar PV and Thermal Installer™ “There is no room for flashings. The L feet will go very close to the skylights and the flashing would hit the edge of them. Plus there is an existing array that was done by another installer that is done with L feet only. The new array would be higher.” ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: [mailto:RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org] RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: [http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org] http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: [http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org] http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules etiquette: [http://www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm] www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: [http://www.members.re-wrenches.org] www.members.re-wrenches.org Sent from Finest Planet WebMail. ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive:
