Re: [RE-wrenches] PV Wiring methods
SS cable ties for ~.33/ea http://electricalwireties.com benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. > On Nov 14, 2013, at 10:51 AM, Ray Walters wrote: > > Where are you buying them from? I am so ready to move away from plastic zip > ties. 59 cents is quite a bit, but that's actually doable. Last time I > looked at SS ties, they were a couple bucks each. > > Thanks, > R.Ray Walters > CTO, Solarray, Inc > Nabcep Certified PV Installer, > Licensed Master Electrician > Solar Design Engineer > 303 505-8760 > On 11/14/2013 9:41 AM, Kirpal Khalsa wrote: >> Bill.we have been using the Hellerman Tyton Sunbundler cable >> tiesThey are braided stainless steel wire with a UV resistant vinyl >> jacketWe have been getting them in quantities of 500 for approximately >> $.59 eachfor the 12" length tiesWe like them alotthey do not >> have any sharp edges and are easy to install >> Hope that helps >> >> >> Sunny Regards, >> Kirpal Khalsa >> NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional >> Renewable Energy Systems >> www.oregonsolarworks.com >> 541-218-0201 m >> 541-592-3958 o >> >> >> On Thu, Nov 14, 2013 at 7:46 AM, frenergy wrote: >>> William, Billfrom another Bill, >>> >>> Two things: For the rest of us (maybe it's just me?!) that's still >>> trying to figure out how (or why) to stuff a MC4 connector into conduit and >>> my hesitation in using SS wire ties for fear of the sharp edges cutting or >>> chaffing into cables, I'm open for advice. Any wire I use on the roof is >>> rated for that type of service and I have some off-grid systems that have >>> been in the sun for some 25 years where the wire still looks nearly new >>> even when flexing it to look for checking/cracks. It seems the >>> wire/insulation can take it, thus it seems like the key to "wire management >>> is to keep the wire from moving and off the roof, secured to the racking, >>> thus not compromising the insulation. >>> >>> I know many on this list are way past this point in their >>> installation skills. However my living in a county in the bush of just 20K >>> folks, I haven't had the opportunity to install 100's of systemsyet. >>> Again, I express my humble appreciation of experienced wrenches to help >>> those of us working to install the tightest systems possible despite living >>> in the boonies. >>> >>> Details on where to source appropriate SS wire ties (rounded >>> edges?, plastic coated?) would be appreciated. My goto place for such >>> things (Grainger) has "regular" SS wire ties that range from $1.50 to $3 >>> each, but none that I can see that address the sharp edge issue...or is >>> that an issue? Have people been using regular SS wire ties in the field >>> for 10-20 years, behind a roof mounted array without any issues related to >>> the wire ties? >>> Thanks for your help and patience, >>> >>> Bill >>> >>> Feather River Solar Electric >>> 4291 Nelson St. >>> Taylorsville, CA 95983 >>> 530.284.7849 / 6544 fax >>> "solar powered since 1982" >>> >>> - Original Message - >>> From: "Bill Loesch" >>> To: "RE-wrenches" >>> Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2013 1:34 AM >>> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] PV Wiring methods >>> >>> > >>> > Hi William (and any other person who wishes to describe themselves as >>> > professional (designer, installer, etc.)), >>> > >>> > Please accept this note as confirmation that your evangelism on wire >>> > management has not fallen on entirely deaf ears. >>> > >>> > Additionally, I'm curious how the practice of requiring a ten year >>> > equipment warranty squares with the acceptance of plastic wire ties. >>> > >>> > Sincere thanks from one convert, >>> > >>> > Bill Loesch >>> > Solar 1 - Saint Louis Solar >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > On Wed, Nov 13, 2013 at 3:41 PM, William Miller wrote: >>> > >>> >> Bill: >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> I respectfully disagree with your logic: Define "perfectly >>> >> installed." If >>> >> your connections are tight and permanent and the conductors are >>> >> protected >>> >> from damage, you have a great chance of a reliable, safe lifetime of >>> >> service. How can you guarantee that your leads will stay protected >>> >> after >>> >> the ties fail? Studies show that even UV resistant wire ties will >>> >> fail well >>> >> before the life expectancy of the system has expired. When the ties >>> >> fail, >>> >> your PV leads are hanging on the roof. Even before the ties fail, >>> >> rodents >>> >> can chew on them. Conduit was invented for a reason and we should be >>> >> using >>> >> it. >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> I agree that arc-fault breakers will improve the situation, but I >>> >> don't >>> >> think any form of OCPD is a substitute for good wiring practices. I >>> >> think >>> >> wire protection is just as important on PV circuits as it is on any >>> >> other >>> >> high voltage circuit. Try
Re: [RE-wrenches] Engineered rafters
William For what it's worth, you may want to check with the rafter mfgr and/or Eng as it is possible they will not allow holes being drilled into them and you could open yourself up to liability issues. I have a structural eng who is insisting I squeeze a construction adhesive (such as LePage PL400) into pilot holes before screwing in the lags when attaching to engineered trusses. Yes, an adhesive, not a sealant. It is to reinforce the strength of the engineered truss that you have just drilled into. Easy feet or other attachments that have multiple lags per attachment point (kinetic flashings have two lags each) are good because they have better/more holding strength if your lag bolt passes thru the structural attachment (a typical lag bolt will stick out about an inch or more past a 2x4 rafter/truss when laid flat, so your lag has less pull-out strength (thread depth). Multiple lags per attachment remedies this. Or consider installing backboards between the rafters and attaching to them. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. > On Nov 6, 2013, at 11:14 AM, "William Miller" wrote: > > Friends: > > I am designing an installation on a roof built with engineered rafters. > These are wood I-beams with 2X4s (or smaller) on flat, dadoed to accept an > OSB flange in between. On top is sheeting and then sheet metal. I have > never attached to engineered rafters > > I checked on DPW easy Feet and they look like my best option so far. . Has > anyone else done this before? > > Thanks in advance for all the great idea I you professionals are willing to > share. > > William Miller > > > > 17395 Oak Rd. Atascadero, CA 93422 > www.millersolar.com > 805-438-5600 voice > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery reading materials
Jesse, 'The Renewable Handbook' by William Kemp is a great resource for off-grid living. There are a couple editions but any one of them makes a great read. Also homepower.com and the solarpro website are packed with great articles. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-10-29, at 11:23 PM, Jesse Dahl wrote: > Hello, > > I have a client that just bought an off-grid home and is interested in > learning more about batteries. He is a very smart guy and a retired mine > electrician. Being older, he's not interested in sitting at a computer and > reading, he wants something he can take into the fish house this winter and > read. > > So any books I can point him to? I'd also print things off and binder them > for him if I need so websites will work. > > Thanks as always! > > Jesse > > Sent from my iPhone > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] question about pole mount interconnection
I would like to retract the part of my last post on this thread where I was referring to the bare conductor size. My bad, I wasn't thinking clearly when writing that last email. Lots of numbers in my head today. A #8 bare with #10 conductors is way out to lunch :/ The bare conductors are indeed always included and are available in different sizes, to an extent. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-10-09, at 1:31 PM, Benn At DayStarSolar wrote: > William, > With Tech90 regardless of the conductor size it always comes with a bare #8 > included. A 3 conductor #10 (aka 10/3) will have red, white, and black #10 > plus the bare#8. > A four conductor will have red, white, black and blue. > > I have only ever seen or been made aware by my suppliers that the bare is a > #8, however would not be surprised if a different size bare could be ordered, > if you were willing to pay extra and wait a bit longer. > > We typically pay $15-18ea for the outdoor rated tech connector, which are > required outdoors for weatherproofing, however inspectors are fine with an > indoor rated flex-connector ($2-3 bucks ea) where weather/moisture will not > be an issue. > > For surface runs you may want to support it at more frequent intervals, > especially on horizontal runs as it is not rigid and can look sloppy if not > adequately supported. > > benn > Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts > and typos. > > On 2013-10-08, at 9:40 PM, "William Miller" wrote: > >> Hilton: >> >> Can you get this cable with mixed wire gauges, i.e. 3 #10 (white and two >> colors) and 1 #8(green or bare)? >> >> How does this material look on surface runs? Can you get it to run nice and >> straight? >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> William >> >> -Original Message- >> From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org >> [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Hilton Dier >> III >> Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2013 4:28 PM >> To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org >> Subject: [RE-wrenches] question about pole mount interconnection >> >> We just did a 4 pole installation using DPW top-of-pole mounts. We used >> Teck-90 armored watertight cable between the poles and from the poles to the >> house. The Teck-90 spiral wound metal flex conduit with an >> everything-resistant black sheath on it pre-stuffed with just about any >> combo of wires you might want. We cast 2" PVC sweeps into the 36" dia. >> sonotubes so the cable could enter underground and come up next to the pole. >> We put PVC end caps on the tops of the sweeps with cable holes in them, just >> for neatness. >> >> Teck-90 is a revelation. We laid out and buried a double run of 100 feet of >> the stuff in the time it took the excavator to go along the trench. >> He never got out of the cab. We get it on a 500' spool and mount the spool >> in the back of a pickup. Then we just run off however much we need, cut it >> to length, and throw dirt on it. >> >> We got it from Graybar for slightly less than the price per foot of the >> equivalent wire and PVC conduit. I had been meaning to write a post on here >> about it. >> >> We also just did PV on a barn roof and did the spool-it-off-and-clip-it-up >> routine. Made the run from the roof to the inverter on the north side first >> floor in about 40 minutes. No conduit bending. The end connectors are kind >> of pricey, but the time saved is huge. >> >> Hilton >> >> -- >> Hilton Dier III >> Renewable Energy Design >> Partner, Solar Gain LLC >> 453 East Hill Rd. >> Middlesex, VT 05602 >> >> ___ >> List sponsored by Home Power magazine >> >> List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org >> >> Change email address & settings: >> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List-Archive: >> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List rules & etiquette: >> www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm >> >> Check out participant bios: >> www.members.re-wrenches.org >> >> >> >> - >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 2014.0.4142 / Virus Database: 3604/6704 - Release Date: 09/27/13 >> >> - >> No virus found in this
Re: [RE-wrenches] question about pole mount interconnection
William, With Tech90 regardless of the conductor size it always comes with a bare #8 included. A 3 conductor #10 (aka 10/3) will have red, white, and black #10 plus the bare#8. A four conductor will have red, white, black and blue. I have only ever seen or been made aware by my suppliers that the bare is a #8, however would not be surprised if a different size bare could be ordered, if you were willing to pay extra and wait a bit longer. We typically pay $15-18ea for the outdoor rated tech connector, which are required outdoors for weatherproofing, however inspectors are fine with an indoor rated flex-connector ($2-3 bucks ea) where weather/moisture will not be an issue. For surface runs you may want to support it at more frequent intervals, especially on horizontal runs as it is not rigid and can look sloppy if not adequately supported. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-10-08, at 9:40 PM, "William Miller" wrote: > Hilton: > > Can you get this cable with mixed wire gauges, i.e. 3 #10 (white and two > colors) and 1 #8(green or bare)? > > How does this material look on surface runs? Can you get it to run nice and > straight? > > Thanks in advance. > > William > > -Original Message- > From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org > [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Hilton Dier > III > Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2013 4:28 PM > To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > Subject: [RE-wrenches] question about pole mount interconnection > > We just did a 4 pole installation using DPW top-of-pole mounts. We used > Teck-90 armored watertight cable between the poles and from the poles to the > house. The Teck-90 spiral wound metal flex conduit with an > everything-resistant black sheath on it pre-stuffed with just about any > combo of wires you might want. We cast 2" PVC sweeps into the 36" dia. > sonotubes so the cable could enter underground and come up next to the pole. > We put PVC end caps on the tops of the sweeps with cable holes in them, just > for neatness. > > Teck-90 is a revelation. We laid out and buried a double run of 100 feet of > the stuff in the time it took the excavator to go along the trench. > He never got out of the cab. We get it on a 500' spool and mount the spool > in the back of a pickup. Then we just run off however much we need, cut it > to length, and throw dirt on it. > > We got it from Graybar for slightly less than the price per foot of the > equivalent wire and PVC conduit. I had been meaning to write a post on here > about it. > > We also just did PV on a barn roof and did the spool-it-off-and-clip-it-up > routine. Made the run from the roof to the inverter on the north side first > floor in about 40 minutes. No conduit bending. The end connectors are kind > of pricey, but the time saved is huge. > > Hilton > > -- > Hilton Dier III > Renewable Energy Design > Partner, Solar Gain LLC > 453 East Hill Rd. > Middlesex, VT 05602 > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > > > > - > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2014.0.4142 / Virus Database: 3604/6704 - Release Date: 09/27/13 > > - > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2014.0.4142 / Virus Database: 3604/6722 - Release Date: 10/04/13 > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Sealing roof vent
Drake, If you are relocating the vent and abandoning the existing hole then could you not just cut the vent flush to the roof or cut it right out and slide a "flashing" up under the above shingles to cover the hole, rather than plugging and filling the vent? Or... Given the pitch of the roof and the height of the array off the roof surface, can you cut the vent as low as possible to cap it and seal the cap (PVC cement if a PVC pipe). benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-10-03, at 3:45 PM, Drake wrote: > Hi Max and Bill, > > Thanks for your input. The actual plumbing vent will be rerouted to go out of > the north pitch of the roof. There will only be a an open pipe left in the > attic. The main issue is finding ways of keeping water out of the vent pipe > (now abandoned) and getting it short enough to fit under the array. I think a > cap on the pipe would make it too high, so I'm looking for other ways to seal > it. > > Drake > > At 11:19 AM 10/3/2013, you wrote: >> Content-Type: multipart/alternative; >> boundary="=_NextPart_000_0020_01CEC022.1E610960" >> Content-Language: en-us >> >> So this is a plumbing vent instead of a furnace or hot water exhaust vent? >> I’ve used Fernco rubber caps on unused vents, with the screw down pipe >> clamps around the bottom. Also these are just to allow air into the vent so >> draining water doesn’t create a vacuum so I suspect there is little to be >> concerned about with cutting them off just above the roof flashing and >> allowing enough room over the top to allow air to flow into it. On a three >> inch vent that is only ¾” to equal the surface area of the pipe. The top of >> the flashing is protected by the module over its top. Over time would there >> be sewer gases which might cause trouble on the back sheet of the module? I >> don’t know. >> >> Bill Dorsett >> Manhattan, KS >> >> From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org [ >> mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Drake >> Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2013 8:03 AM >> To: RE-wrenches >> Subject: [RE-wrenches] Sealing roof vent >> >> Hello Wrenches, >> >> We are moving a roof vent. My plumber suggested that we cut the old one and >> cap it instead of having to repair the roof. I'm not sure a capped vent >> would be short enough to fit under the array. >> >> What if we were to cut the vent off at the flashing level and plug the pipe. >> A rubber plug could be put in and topped with hydraulic water-stop cement. >> Neoprene roof sealant could be spread on top of that. >> >> Has anyone tried anything like that? Are there any other good options? Can >> you see any issues with this method? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Drake >> >> Drake Chamberlin >> Athens Electric LLC >> OH License 44810 >> CO License 3773 >> NABCEP Certified Solar PV >> 740-448-7328 >> http://athens-electric.com/ >> >> ___ >> List sponsored by Home Power magazine >> >> List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org >> >> Change email address & settings: >> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List-Archive: >> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List rules & etiquette: >> www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm >> >> Check out participant bios: >> www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Minimum Lux needed
Thank you Kelly. Not that I don't believe you, but can you provide any data to back this up? I should have asked for that upfront. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-09-05, at 10:24 AM, Kelly Larson wrote: > Hi Benn, > > It's around 200W per square meter. > > Blessings, > Kelly > > Kelly Larson > Electrical Engineer > NABCEP Certified Solar PV Installation Professional > ISPQ Master Trainer > CA Electrical Contractor# 868189 > SolarKelly.com > > On Sep 5, 2013, at 9:06 AM, Benn At DayStarSolar wrote: > >> Wrenches, >> I was asked... What is the minimum Lux level required to make usable >> electricity with a commonly installed monocrystaline PV module. >> >> The question is for the purpose of designing a tracker that will not operate >> until a particular threshold is reached. >> Thanks, >> benn >> Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts >> and typos. >> ___ >> List sponsored by Home Power magazine >> >> List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org >> >> Change email address & settings: >> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List-Archive: >> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List rules & etiquette: >> www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm >> >> Check out participant bios: >> www.members.re-wrenches.org > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Minimum Lux needed
Wrenches, I was asked... What is the minimum Lux level required to make usable electricity with a commonly installed monocrystaline PV module. The question is for the purpose of designing a tracker that will not operate until a particular threshold is reached. Thanks, benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] GFX Series with generator
I believe there is an issue with connecting the GFX (or GVFX) to just any generator, such that Outback recommends or perhaps requires (warranty reasons?) that the only generator that can be used is a particular Honda generator. The EU series maybe. A real down fall of the GFX's. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-08-08, at 9:47 AM, "William Miller" wrote: > Friends: > > We a have a client that is off-grid right now but will have a grid connection > in a few months. They need an inverter that will connect to a generator now > and the grid later. Can the Outback G series inverter do that? How about > any other inverters in the 4Kw range? > > Thanks in advance. > > William > > > > 17395 Oak Rd. Atascadero, CA 93422 > www.millersolar.com > 805-438-5600 voice* > *Note: above number replaces cell number > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Unknown rail.
I'm not debating that it is snapnrack, but it does look very similar to Kinetic, which we are using a lot of these days. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-07-31, at 2:21 PM, All Solar wrote: > Can anyone please identify the rail on the photo? > > Regards > Jeremy Rodriguez > AllSolar > > > > Sent by Jeremy's iPhone. Sorry for typos and shorthand! > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Tape on modules for wire management
Workmanship. Quality of work As the Cdn Electrical Code does, I'm sure your NEC has a mention that any work shall be done using acceptable means. "Canadian Electrical Code Rule 2-108 Quality of work The mechanical arrangement and execution of the work in connection with any electrical installation shall be acceptable." This rule give an inspector the right, by code, to reject any work that is 'reasonably" not up to par (acceptable). You would have to think that anyone in their right mind would agree that electrical tape holding wires to the back of a module is not going to last and the wires will simply fall off before long. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-07-10, at 7:37 PM, jay peltz wrote: > Hi all, > > You code wonks can help out here > > I had a friend ask about an install he saw that used electrical tape to > attach the PV wires to the modules, yep actually taping them to the back of > the module. > > I'm having trouble figuring out if this actually breaks any codes and if so > which ones > > Then there is the whole ul,listing of the modules and is that approved? > > Thanks, > > Jay > Peltz power > > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery vent distance
Jesse, Can't imagine there is a definitive answer. The further the better. Given what you are venting out of the battery box (very light hydrogen gas) I would at the very least make sure the battery vent is higher up than the furnace intake. Any other sort of barrier btwn the two vents, mounted to the wall would only make it safer. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-07-10, at 12:42 PM, Jesse Dahl wrote: > Hello, > > How far away does the vent from a battery box need to be away from an air > intake for a home's furnace? > > Jesse > > Sent from my iPhone > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Painting rails
I've suggested leaving the rails black with silver-framed mods. They are considering it. It certainly looks better than black-framed mods w/ silver rails. Can anyone share a few install photos with me with black rails and silver-framed mods, so I can show the client that it doesn't look that bad. Thanks benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-07-05, at 9:30 AM, August Goers wrote: > Hi Benn, > > This sounds tricky. We've occasionally painted silver rail black on the > ends with Rust-Oleum matte black paint. It always seems to adhere well but > I don't know for sure how long it will last. I've never tried painting > silver over black. > > Is the client unhappy with black rail and silver modules? As long as > you're consistent with the type of rail maybe you can talk them into > leaving it? > > > Best, > > August > > -Original Message- > From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org > [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Benn At > DayStarSolar > Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2013 6:29 PM > To: RE-wrenches > Subject: [RE-wrenches] Painting rails > > Anyone successfully/properly painted silver/anodized rails to black, or > black rails to silver to match module frames? > > We have a large project and the supplier hiccup'd the order (if you can > believe it). The black rails are already installed and silver framed > modules are what arrived. > > One of the options being considered is painting the visible black rail > portions to silver. > Are there any known, tried and true methods/products for doing this so > that the paint will last? > > Reluctantly, > benn > Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts > and typos. > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Painting rails
Anyone successfully/properly painted silver/anodized rails to black, or black rails to silver to match module frames? We have a large project and the supplier hiccup'd the order (if you can believe it). The black rails are already installed and silver framed modules are what arrived. One of the options being considered is painting the visible black rail portions to silver. Are there any known, tried and true methods/products for doing this so that the paint will last? Reluctantly, benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] SE or SW
Thanks for pointing that out Dave. PVWatts is a great tool but you're right, unfortunately it doesn't account for snow cover. It's best to go into the derate settings and using your knowledge of the different site/equipment factors, adjust accordingly. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-05-14, at 6:18 PM, "Dave Palumbo" wrote: > PV Watts does not consider snow. So, if you are in an area that snow > coverage is an issue then you have become the decider based on what your > best instincts and your experience tell you. I've got some second story (not > workable for a roof rake unfortunately) low sloped roofs for clients that > can stay snow covered for weeks at a time. But I know that going in and I > take PV watts and de-rate the 5 months that we get significant snow here in > northern Vermont and no one is surprised and disappointed with the poor > winter production. > > Dave Palumbo > > -Original Message- > From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org > [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Benn At > DayStarSolar > Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:10 PM > To: RE-wrenches > Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] SE or SW > > Jesse, > A good decision can be based on, among other site/load specific details, the > site's "micro-climate". > > Do they tend to have clear mornings and cloudier afternoons/evenings? > ...or cloudy/foggy mornings and clearer afternoons/evenings? > > Maybe throw the different directions into PVWatts and see what it says, > since it is based on weather history (isn't it?) > > Good luck. > benn > Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts > and typos. > > On 2013-05-14, at 4:34 PM, Jesse Dahl wrote: > >> Hello, >> >> I was asked to look at a site today for a homeowner looking for a grid-tie > with battery-back up. They are Doomsday Preppers for lack of a better term > and want certain loads if and when the grid goes down for good. Aside from > parts selection, they have two roof lines, one facing SE one facing SW. the > SW is very low slope and is only accessible with a ladder and climbing on > the roof, the other is SE, much steeper slope and accessible from the ground > or deck. I mention the access because of snow removal. We had lots of snow > last year and I spent lots of time on my roof removing 8" snow falls. Both > have good solar access. >> >> I'm inclined to chose the SE roof line, but I am interested in arguments > for the SW. >> >> Thanks! >> >> Jesse >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> ___ >> List sponsored by Home Power magazine >> >> List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org >> >> Change email address & settings: >> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List rules & etiquette: >> www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm >> >> Check out participant bios: >> www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] SE or SW
Jesse, A good decision can be based on, among other site/load specific details, the site's "micro-climate". Do they tend to have clear mornings and cloudier afternoons/evenings? ...or cloudy/foggy mornings and clearer afternoons/evenings? Maybe throw the different directions into PVWatts and see what it says, since it is based on weather history (isn't it?) Good luck. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-05-14, at 4:34 PM, Jesse Dahl wrote: > Hello, > > I was asked to look at a site today for a homeowner looking for a grid-tie > with battery-back up. They are Doomsday Preppers for lack of a better term > and want certain loads if and when the grid goes down for good. Aside from > parts selection, they have two roof lines, one facing SE one facing SW. the > SW is very low slope and is only accessible with a ladder and climbing on the > roof, the other is SE, much steeper slope and accessible from the ground or > deck. I mention the access because of snow removal. We had lots of snow last > year and I spent lots of time on my roof removing 8" snow falls. Both have > good solar access. > > I'm inclined to chose the SE roof line, but I am interested in arguments for > the SW. > > Thanks! > > Jesse > > Sent from my iPhone > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Consumption limiting meter
Wrenches, This is a request for a colleague. Anybody have suggestions where I could access a consumption limiting kWh meter with the following characteristics? > 120VAC 30A > Displays accumulated wattage and turns off power access at a preset point. > Resettable after 24 hours. It is for a campground solar system. The visitor pays a daily fee to have access to say 1.5kWh of electricity per day. They can see how their account is doing by reading the meter. When their consumption reaches 1.5kWh the meter, through a relay, turns off the power. It resets automatically or manually the next day. Thanks, benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Wasps
Jason's suggestion of hiring a pro is great. Just to throw another 'remedy' idea out there. If you are still looking to do it yourself. Vinegar would be effective. Not sure it's effect on mod back sheets thou? But it could be sprayed down with water after the chaos has calmed down. A few squirts from a spray bottle directly on the nest (without getting any on the modules) may be enough to have the wasps looking for a better nesting area. Remember, anything sprayed on the roof will end up washing off one way or another. Remember that if they collect the rainwater runoff for watering lawns/gardens. Vinegar works great for ant hills as well. Just keep the area that you apply it to small and let it soak down into the nest. Don't cover a large area or all vegetation that is contacted will die as well. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-05-07, at 7:41 AM, Jason Szumlanski wrote: > Unless I missed it, I'm kinda surprised that nobody suggested the obvious: > hire a professional. Hand the manufacturer's datasheet and instructions to > them and let them do their job. > > Jason Szumlanski > Fafco Solar > > > On Thu, May 2, 2013 at 2:13 PM, Dana Brandt wrote: >> Hi Wrenches, >> >> I have a client who has developed quite a problem with wasps behind her >> array. Does anyone have experience getting rid of them? I'm afraid of the >> possibility of sprays damaging the backsheet. Is that a legitimate concern? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Dana >> >> Dana Brandt >> Ecotech Energy Systems, LLC >> www.ecotechenergy.com >> d...@ecotechenergy.com >> 360.318.7646 >> >> ___ >> List sponsored by Home Power magazine >> >> List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org >> >> Change email address & settings: >> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List-Archive: >> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List rules & etiquette: >> www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm >> >> Check out participant bios: >> www.members.re-wrenches.org > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Stainless Steel Cable Ties
Andrew, Thanks for the feedback. What are the chances that you would know the mfgr of the ties? Long shot? Under an array(on a roof), yes the ties would be protected from direct sunlight, but exposed to higher than ambient temperatures. I have seen some brittle/broken nylon cable ties that were exposed to elements and light. Ill see if I can find some pics. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-04-25, at 9:48 AM, Solar Energy Solutions wrote: > We have used black cable ties since 1987 to strap sensor wire to PVC pipe for > our solar pool heating systems. I was just at a system we installed in 1989 > mounted on an East facing roof yesterday. The exposed 20g sensor wire still > had intact and plyable sheilding and the black cable ties still firmly > attached and not brittle. We have other similiar scenes with systems mounted > on South facing roof were the black cable ties are still in tact under full > solar exposure... for Portland Oregon. Yanking on some of these cable ties > sometimes break the ancient tie. But, more often than not, as yesterday, we > have to break out our wire cutters to accomplish this task. > > Thus, I gotta think that black cable ties under a PV array which are not > exposed to any of the heat or sun we usually subject them to... are going to > last an even longer time. > > > Andrew Koyaanisqatsi > President > Solar Energy Solutions, Inc. > Since 1987, > Moving Portland and Beyond > to an Environmentally Sustainable Future. > 503-238-4502 > http://www.solarenergyoregon.com/ > > "Better one's House too little one day > than too big all the Year after." > > > From: Chris Mason > To: RE-wrenches > Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 8:12 AM > Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Stainless Steel Cable Ties > > Make sure you use black cable ties, the white ones fail in UV from sunlight. > > > On Thu, Apr 25, 2013 at 11:06 AM, August Goers wrote: > I too share the concern about standard plastic zip ties. However, I started > in the industry in 1997 and have yet to see zip ties that are falling apart. > Does anyone on the list have firsthand experience with failed plastic zip > ties? > > Best, > > August > > > August Goers > > Luminalt Energy Corporation > 1320 Potrero Avenue > San Francisco, CA 94110 > m: 415.559.1525 > o: 415.641.4000 > aug...@luminalt.com > > From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org > [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Solarguy > > Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 7:08 AM > To: 'RE-wrenches' > Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Stainless Steel Cable Ties > > We have used 8” flat SS ties for years and I have no concern about the wear > on the conductor insulation. They are long enough to circle a standard Unirac > rail and several wires leaving 1” or so tag end. Needle nose pliers work to > twist the end and snug down the tie as tight as you’re comfortable with. The > metal tie, once bent around the corners cannot stretch any tighter, unlike > nylon, regardless of how tightly you twist the pliers. As for the edges, > quality ties are not sharp. Or cheap. > > Jim Duncan > North Texas Renewable Energy Inc > http://www.ntrei.com/ > NABCEP PV 031310-57 > TECL-27398 > nt...@1scom.net > 817.917.0527 > > > > > From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org > [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Jason > Szumlanski > Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 8:08 AM > To: RE-wrenches > Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Stainless Steel Cable Ties > > There was a recent thread about wire management. Heyco SunBundler ties have a > vinyl coating. I recommended the clips from PV Racking that are stainless > steel coated in rubber. I've had the same concern, and both of these seem > like good solutions to me. > > Jason Szumlanski > Fafco Solar > > On Thu, Apr 25, 2013 at 1:20 AM, Benn Kilburn - DayStar Renewable Energy > wrote: > Wrenches, > I searched the archives, but came up with nothing on this…. > > I have found a good supplier for reasonably priced stainless steel cable ties > and have been using them in place of black nylon cable ties for supporting > cables, PV wires and micro-inverter wires to the mounting rails and such. I > feel better knowing the wires under the array are supported this way rather > than with plastic/nylon cable ties, for which I tried but cannot get a > manufacturer to guarantee will last 20+yrs. > > A colleague is questioning this method (SS ties) with the concern that over > time the (albeit small) movement in the wires and/or expansion/contraction of > the rails could result in the stainless steel cable ties cutting thru the > wire's insulation and then….. > I have heard this concern before from others as well. > > The way I see it is that the very popular stainless steel "S" cable clips > that hold wires to module frames have comparable equal sharp edges as
Re: [RE-wrenches] Stainless Steel Cable Ties
Chris, If using black nylon ones then I'd add that you use the ones with the metal "catch tooth" (for lack of a better term) as opposed to the ones with a plastic catch tooth. There is a price and quality difference. I get my stainless steel ties from a local supplier. I'd have to check the mfgr. I share Augusts request for firsthand experience with failed black nylon cable ties, please. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-04-25, at 9:12 AM, Chris Mason wrote: > Make sure you use black cable ties, the white ones fail in UV from sunlight. > > > On Thu, Apr 25, 2013 at 11:06 AM, August Goers wrote: >> I too share the concern about standard plastic zip ties. However, I started >> in the industry in 1997 and have yet to see zip ties that are falling apart. >> Does anyone on the list have firsthand experience with failed plastic zip >> ties? >> >> >> >> Best, >> >> >> >> August >> >> >> >> >> >> August Goers >> >> >> >> Luminalt Energy Corporation >> >> 1320 Potrero Avenue >> >> San Francisco, CA 94110 >> >> m: 415.559.1525 >> >> o: 415.641.4000 >> >> aug...@luminalt.com >> >> >> >> From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org >> [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Solarguy >> >> >> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 7:08 AM >> To: 'RE-wrenches' >> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Stainless Steel Cable Ties >> >> >> We have used 8” flat SS ties for years and I have no concern about the wear >> on the conductor insulation. They are long enough to circle a standard >> Unirac rail and several wires leaving 1” or so tag end. Needle nose pliers >> work to twist the end and snug down the tie as tight as you’re comfortable >> with. The metal tie, once bent around the corners cannot stretch any >> tighter, unlike nylon, regardless of how tightly you twist the pliers. As >> for the edges, quality ties are not sharp. Or cheap. >> >> >> >> Jim Duncan >> >> North Texas Renewable Energy Inc >> >> www.ntrei.com >> >> NABCEP PV 031310-57 >> >> TECL-27398 >> >> nt...@1scom.net >> >> 817.917.0527 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org >> [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Jason >> Szumlanski >> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2013 8:08 AM >> To: RE-wrenches >> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Stainless Steel Cable Ties >> >> >> >> There was a recent thread about wire management. Heyco SunBundler ties have >> a vinyl coating. I recommended the clips from PV Racking that are stainless >> steel coated in rubber. I've had the same concern, and both of these seem >> like good solutions to me. >> >> >> >> Jason Szumlanski >> Fafco Solar >> >> >> On Thu, Apr 25, 2013 at 1:20 AM, Benn Kilburn - DayStar Renewable Energy >> wrote: >> >> Wrenches, >> >> I searched the archives, but came up with nothing on this…. >> >> >> >> I have found a good supplier for reasonably priced stainless steel cable >> ties and have been using them in place of black nylon cable ties for >> supporting cables, PV wires and micro-inverter wires to the mounting rails >> and such. I feel better knowing the wires under the array are supported >> this way rather than with plastic/nylon cable ties, for which I tried but >> cannot get a manufacturer to guarantee will last 20+yrs. >> >> >> >> A colleague is questioning this method (SS ties) with the concern that over >> time the (albeit small) movement in the wires and/or expansion/contraction >> of the rails could result in the stainless steel cable ties cutting thru the >> wire's insulation and then….. >> >> I have heard this concern before from others as well. >> >> >> >> The way I see it is that the very popular stainless steel "S" cable clips >> that hold wires to module frames have comparable equal sharp edges as well >> and would pose the same risk, but there doesn't seem to be any concern there. >> >> >> >> I am wondering who else is using SS ties in place of nylon ones, and if you >> are taking additional steps to protect the wire's insulation from the SS >> ties? >> >> Common sense abides, meaning don't wrap a wire around the SS ties so that >> the wire has tension on the sharp edge of the tie. Flat edge contact with >> the wire only, the same way that you wouldn't run a wire across/around a >> sharp cut edge of a rail or anything else. >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> benn >> >> >> ___ >> List sponsored by Home Power magazine >> >> List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org >> >> Change email address & settings: >> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List-Archive: >> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List rules & etiquette: >> www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm >> >> Check out participant bios: >> www
Re: [RE-wrenches] torque screwdrivers
Kris, I use a Mac (mechanic tools). It ranges up to 88 in-lb. let me know if you are interested in the model#. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-04-22, at 12:43 PM, Kristopher Schmid wrote: > Any of you folks using these? > Any brand recommendations? > What kind of in-lb range should i be looking for? > > Thanks! > > -- > Shine On! > > Kris Schmid > Legacy Solar, LLC > 864 Clam Falls Trail > Frederic, WI 54837 > www.legacysolar.com > 715-653-4295 > NABCEP Certified PV Installer > Licensed Wisconsin Master Electrician > BSEE > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Modules approved for horizontal mounting
Carl, Each specific module install instruction guide should state the acceptable mounting attachment points. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-04-19, at 7:27 PM, Carl Adams wrote: > Hello wrenches, > > I have a request for quote, which shows modules mounted horizontally on a > supporting structure. This is being done more for show than production > obviously. The approved modules in the bid spec are Sharp, Renesolar, LDK, > and Trina. > > Does anyone know if these modules are approved, by the manufacturer, for flat > (horizontal) mounting, or have a good point of contact with any of these > manufacturers so I can get a quick answer direct from them? We have a 20 psf > design snow load in our area. > > Cheers > Carl Adams > SunRock Solar > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Change email address & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Snow guards for pitched roof arrays?
Allen, What is the roofing material? S-5 has a product that works well with standing-seam. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2013-02-08, at 9:02 AM, Allen Frishman wrote: > Wrencher's, > I'm working on a project for a New construction housing complex and the GC > had planned to install snow guards to protect people in the below walkways > from large sheets of ice/snow. I will be installing large sections of > arrays on much of the pitched roof and am looking for a solution to work with > the Solar panels. Does anyone know of a product? > > Thank you, > > Al Frishman > AeonSolar > > (917) 699-6641 - cell > (888) 460-2867 > www.aeonsolar.com > > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Protecting bonding wire on flat roofs
Jason, for a flat roof with any sort of equipment or obstructions on it, tripping hazards are to be expected and a person with access should be expected to watch out for them. However these days we have to go out of our way to protect against stu**dity (I mean those who are out of their element :) ) To start with post a sign at the entrance to the area that there are trip hazards (as well as a roof edge and...) Additionally you can mark the hazards with reflective flags on fiberglass poles (think driveway markers) on either edge/side or along the trip hazard. Or eliminate the trip hazard by elevating the wire jump and clearly marking so that it *should be obvious. Ramps over conduit runs... this can be wise to prevent some from using the conduit as a 'step', but can get out of hand (and budget) if the area is large and there are lots of places the ramps are needed. Designated walkways enclosed with handrails can be a good idea if the area may be frequented. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2012-12-18, at 2:23 PM, Jason Szumlanski wrote: > On flat roofs, how are you protecting against tripping hazards, particularly > for bonding wire that jumps from array rows? I was thinking about wiremold, > but I don't they make it UV rated. > > And while on the subject, are you installing ramps over elevated conduit runs > typically? > > Jason Szumlanski > Fafco Solar > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Pilot Hole Template
Jesse, I can't picture how you will use the flashing and EMT as a guide? 2x6 tongue and groove? So is it laid flat (interconnecting the T&G) or is it on edge like a truss? Either way, if you can establish a reference point from inside to the roof, then from the inside (if accessible) accurately measure the distances you want to hit the 'beams' (are these the 2x6s you mentioned?) and either record the measurements or mark them on a length of something (EMT, mounting rail, make marks on your tape) and transfer it to the roof. Make sure to note north/south on each end of your measurement 'template' while inside so it doesn't get switched around when you get on the roof. Also it might be good to confirm the measurements for each rail/row to account for any variances from row to row. Hope this helps? benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2012-12-11, at 7:00 PM, Jesse Dahl wrote: > Hello, > > The roof I'm currently working on is not a typical roof. The construction is > as follows: > > 2"x6" tongue and groove exposed inside, with 4 inches of foam (blue board) > and on top of that 3/4" plywood with asphalt shingles on top of that. > > I'd like to make a template to ensure that my pilot bit doesn't wander when > I'm going through the blue board. If I miss the beams inside, the hole or > the lag would be exposed. > > Anybody run across this? Ideas? I thought of maybe using a qucikmount > flashing, with a short section of EMT attached to help guide the bit > > Thanks! > > Jesse > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] PV String Over-voltage
Larry, Would it not be a more straightforward approach to just size the strings, temperature compensating for the coldest anticipated temp? Nonetheless, such a device could be useful in some circumstances. I'd be interested to know if your search comes up with something. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2012-11-29, at 6:53 PM, "Larry Crutcher, Starlight Solar Power Systems" wrote: > Wrenches, > > I seem to recall seeing something about a device for PV string over-voltage > protection by bypassing a module. I can't find any info by Goggling. > > Some customers in the FAR north, ay, can see > 40° below zero with bright sun > and snow reflection. I want to be able to switch off one or more modules in a > string for protecting the controllers. > > Thank you, > > Larry Crutcher > Starlight Solar Power Systems > > > > > > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Roof flashings on L-feet in high snow load conditions
Troy, Maybe adding additional support to the trusses would allow you to spread out the Lfeet a bit more? ...but then there is still that added cost!?! QuickmountPV for one, makes a pretty solid case that any roof penetration needs to be flashed if the waterproof integrity of a roof is to be maintained. Especially when the roof is under warranty. Yeah the added cost can be tough to get used to, but it is the cost of doing it right.(my perception) I was always 100% confidant that none of my Lfeet-straight-to-shingle penetrations would ever leak but when the flashed mounts came along it didn't take long to accept them as a better method. Regarding working with the shingles... Do you use a good flat roofing bar to separate the shingles? That is a must! Sometimes you have to be patient and dont rush it, just break the seal a bit at a time or they will crack/tear for sure. Also the working temperature is key. Shingles have a recommended working temp and above/below that temp greatly increases the chance of damage. If the temp is to cold and the shingles are brittle then a heat gun may help soften them and loosen the adhesive. Not to much, not to little William, Yeah the term 'gravity flashing' is new to me too. While adding Lfeet for support without lagging them into the roof seems like a reasonable solution to supporting longer rail spans, are you not concerned that the Lfoot may wear thru the shingle after years of shifting around with wind lift and snow load? Maybe I'm thinking to cautiously? Do you put anything btwn the Lfoot and the shingle? benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2012-11-13, at 5:51 PM, William Miller wrote: > Troy: > > I do not know what a gravity flashing is. Can you elucidate? > > If you have adequate upload mounting strength and need more download support, > you can consider using additional L-fee that simply rest on the shingles > without penetrating the roof. We do that sometimes to take the sag out of > some DPW racking products if the span is long. This should be an easy way to > provide more snow load support. The caveat is that, on pitched roofs, the > resting feet do not provide any support down pitch. > > William Miller > > At 08:04 AM 11/13/2012, you wrote: >> Hi all, >> >> We have been doing PV installs for years with L-feet and silicone without >> problems ever. Even still, gravity flashings seem attractive in shingle >> roofs, to provide a second level of security, and a more professional >> install (at least in perception). But the cost of these systems in >> significant in high snow load areas where we often have L-feet every 2 feet >> on center, to evenly load the structure below. In todays costs, the feet >> could cost as much as 33% of the panel value. >> >> I'm wondering what other people are doing in high snow load areas? >> >> Also. I have noticed that there is a flip side to the risks. We have found >> that unless you have good quality shingles, on a preexisting roof, that >> sometimes the adhesive sticking the shingles together is stronger than the >> low quality shingles themselves - adding risk of trying to shoe horn >> flashing in after the fact. Your experience? >> >> thanks, >> >> Troy Harvey > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] EMT in attic - vs FMC vs armored cable
Sounds like you are referring to what we refer to around here as teck cable. Very common stuff for industrial applications. Here, pretty much any electrical wholesaler has stock in several configurations. Can be ordered in 2,3,4,5,6... (Not sure the limit extent) number of conductors and in pretty much any awg size and usually comes with an appropriate sized bond. Just have to watch the exposed/visible horizontal runs as it will sag and look sloppy. I'm pretty sure I have some spec sheets if you like. Request them offline. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2012-11-09, at 1:37 PM, "William Miller" wrote: > Hilton: > > This is an intriguing concept: The universal PV AC/DC cable. It has a red, > black and white #10, a green #8, it's rated for 600 V AC or DC and for wet > locations with a metallic cover. I'd buy a roll. Where do we get it? > > William Miller > > > > At 11:54 AM 11/9/2012, you wrote: >> This subject interests me as I had been considering using waterproof >> metallic armored cable. I can get pre-made cable with just about any number >> of conductors of any size, sheathed in a flexible metallic layer and then a >> UV resistant waterproof layer. The stuff is direct burial as well. Buying 4 >> conductor and ground #8 would handle 95% of my residential work. I could >> overkill with #6, or 6 conductor, and the savings on all the screwing around >> with conduit would still make it better. In bulk it's actually about the >> same price per foot as individually purchased wire and conduit. >> >> The thing I like about it is that it eliminates all the cutting, measuring, >> bending, and pulling, or in the case of PVC, stocking of fittings, >> measuring, cutting, gluing, and pulling. Just roll it off the reel. >> >> The question is, will the AHJ accept it for a >250VDC interior run? Maybe >> with the right end fittings? >> >> Hilton > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Enphase and Romex
Jason, Why don't you transition to romex in the Soladeck, eliminating the need for a junction box in the attic? I abide by the CE Code (Canadian) and run a #6green from the roof to the dist pnl. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2012-10-25, at 7:12 AM, Jason Szumlanski wrote: > I'm sure this has been covered, but I could not find it in the archives. > > We are considering using Romex in the attic for the first time. My plan was > to use the new Enphase coupler to connect the trunk cable to Type TC-ER, > enter a Soladeck passthrough box on the roof into a junction box in the attic > where I would make the transition to 10/3 Romex. I'm hung up on the GEC going > back to the service panel. Any suggestions? > > By the way, we are on NEC 2008, and in most cases there is also a requirement > for an additional grounding electrode per NEC 690.47(D) (that shouldn't > really relate to my issue). > > Jason Szumlanski > Fafco Solar > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Best practices for comp shingle flashing?
Eric, you can purchase L-foot brackets of varying heights upwards of 7" from several PV racking mfgrs. You are not limited by the height of the flashing bolt or post. Check DPW's catalogue for example. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with touch screen keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2012-08-15, at 5:21 PM, "SunHarvest" wrote: > Thanks guys. Talked with TTi and mentioned Mr. Miller's experience with rust. > They said they got a lot of feedback about this problem on their 1st > generation line and have since corrected the issue. I'll remain > cautious...thanks Willy. > > TTi, DPW, EcoFasten, and Quick-mount all seem to have the same issue of > lacking versatility in height adjustment. Anyway, going to check out a sample > from TTi. DPW and EcoFasten look like they still require cutting of both > flash base and comp courses. I'm trying to avoid cutting anything as I want > to avoid disturbing original flashing and original roofing material. > > Thanks for all your input!! > > Eric Stikes > SunHarvest Solar > A Sustainable Energy Group Partner > +1 (530) 798 - 3738 > www.harvesthesun.com > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] roof attachment in tile roof
William, Jason; I appreciate the suggestion, it sounds like an ideal solution. I do wonder why you prefer posts when you could use the tile hooks and avoid the extra work and time of cutting and flashing? If it makes for a better attachment structurally and weather-proof wise, then I'm all for it. Could you make a few points for/against tile hooks vs flashed posts? Thanks. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with tiny keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2012-07-13, at 2:20 PM, Jason Szumlanski wrote: > I should have mentioned that a few manufacturers make complete standoff and > flashing systems: > > http://www.quickmountpv.com/products/universal-tile-mount.html#page=overview > http://www.verde-industries.com/solar-flashings/solar-flashings.html > > There are others. > > Jason Szumlanski > Fafco Solar > > > > On Fri, Jul 13, 2012 at 4:12 PM, Jason Szumlanski > wrote: > Agreed. AKA Stand-offs. Unirac makes two-piece standoffs in 4-7". Two lags > per base make a highly secure connection to the truss. > > NRCA Flashing detail > http://www.nrca.net/consumer/types/details/tile-7.pdf > > Jason Szumlanski > Fafco Solar > > > > On Fri, Jul 13, 2012 at 2:18 PM, William Miller > wrote: > Benn: > > None of the below. Use stanchions, also known as power posts. Flash them > properly, just like a roof vent, only they will be perpindicular to the roof > surface, not vertical. > > William Miller > > > At 06:40 AM 7/13/2012, benn kilburn wrote: > > > Hanger bolts or tile hooks….What does the collective wisdom of this list have > to suggest/recommend? > > Cheers, > Benn > > DayStar Renewable Energy Inc. > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > > > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
I haven't read up on the mentioned structural screws yet, but do they specifically state that they can be driven "without" a pilot hole? What is the justification and how are they different so that they won't cause a board to split under pressure? Does anyone have some good info on this? benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with tiny keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2012-07-03, at 3:53 PM, "David Brearley" wrote: > +1 on the use of structural screws. We ran an article about lag screws a > couple years ago: > > http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP3_4_pg70_Shelly > > One of the things that surprised me when I read this manuscript is how > variable lag screws are in terms of construction and quality. Besides the > convenience of being able to drive a structural screw without a pilot hole, > the engineering specs are likely better documented and the manufacturing > tolerances are probably tighter as well. > > FWIW: I think that using unflashed attachments in these litigious times is > unwise. It's not consistent with best practices in the construction industry. > It does not meet building codes. It violates the roof warranty. It makes your > competition look good. > > We ran our first article on this topic 4 years ago, in our inaugural issue of > SolarPro magazine: > > http://solarprofessional.com/article/?file=SP1_1_pg72_Fain > > The industry has come a long way since then, both in terms of awareness and > in terms of off-the-shelf flashed attachment options. There are so many > quality flashed attachment solutions to chose from now that I'm not sure why > anyone would knowingly expose themselves to a possible construction > negligence claim. > > Drive straight, > > David Brearley, Senior Technical Editor > SolarPro magazine > NABCEP Certified PV Installer ™ > david.brear...@solarprofessional.com > Direct: 541.261.6545 > > On Jul 3, 2012, at 4:11 PM, Garrison Riegel wrote: > >> The EcoFasten GF1 flashing is easy to install on a retrofit and will not >> necessarily add any height to the rail. If you do need to trim the >> flashings installed around the skylight, then I would recommend adding >> sealant to these penetrations. We ditch the included lag and use a 5/16” >> GRK RSS (self tapping structural screw). The combination works great and >> does not require a pilot hole. >> >> RSS: >> http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/RSS_1_2_information.htm >> >> GF1 >> http://ecofastensolar.com/pdf/GF1%20Cutsheets.pdf >> >> Best, >> >> Garrison Riegel >> Project Manager >> >> Solar Service Inc >> [p] 847-677-0950 >> [f] 847-647-9360 >> www.solarserviceinc.com >> >> NABCEP Certified Solar PV and Thermal Installer™ >> >> >> “There is no room for flashings. The L feet will go very close to the >> skylights and the flashing would hit the edge of them. Plus there is an >> existing array that was done by another installer that is done with L feet >> only. The new array would be higher.” >> >> >> ___ >> List sponsored by Home Power magazine >> >> List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org >> >> Options & settings: >> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List-Archive: >> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org >> >> List rules & etiquette: >> www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm >> >> Check out participant bios: >> www.members.re-wrenches.org >> > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
Drake, This won't help with the height issue, but maybe you could trim the flashing where it is close to the skylights? Or is it possible to access the underside of the roof beside the skylight so you can add a spanner btwn the rafters so you can have room for the flashing? No answer for the height issue. But if shadowing is not an issue maybe you can sell it on the basis of "doing it right" and depending on personal preference, maybe the varying heights will look good/interesting/different/acceptable?!? Cheers, benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with tiny keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2012-06-29, at 1:10 PM, "Drake" wrote: > Hi Jay, > > There is no room for flashings. The L feet will go very close to the > skylights and the flashing would hit the edge of them. Plus there is an > existing array that was done by another installer that is done with L feet > only. The new array would be higher. > > >> And given that we have really good off the shelf approved flashed feet, why >> would you use anything else? >> >> My 2 cents, >> >> Jay >> >> peltz power >> >> >> On Jun 29, 2012, at 5:16 AM, Glenn Burt wrote: >> >>> We have used a variety of sealants over the years, and determined simple >>> Henry roofing cement is the best product for use on comp roofing. >>> >>> We also used to bend our own L-foot flashing, which we cut from standard Al >>> coil stock (before all the manufactured options were available). This might >>> be a good option for you in this case. >>> >>> >>> >>> Glenn >>> >>> From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org >>> [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Drake >>> Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2012 6:40 PM >>> To: RE-wrenches >>> Subject: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof >>> >>> I'm quoting a job that has an existing array with L feet bolted down to a >>> shingle roof with no flashings. I want to match the height of the existing >>> array. Also some modules are being worked in around skylights where it is >>> unlikely that room would be available for flashings to center over rafters. >>> >>> I've always used flashings. Would it be completely crazy to follow suit of >>> the existing array and bolt L feet straight to the shingle roof with good >>> roof sealant? If so, how would you seal it? > Drake Chamberlin > ATHENS ELECTRIC LLC > OH License 44810 > CO license 3773 > NABCEP Certified PV > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Proposed CE Code Rule -rodent damage control
Let me correct myself here... I don't believe that the proposal is suggesting that PV wire specifically be in conduit, but that it is protected (by whatever means) from rodents. Thanks, benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with tiny keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2012-06-29, at 11:25 AM, "Benn At DayStarSolar" wrote: > Wrenches, > It has come to my attention that there is a proposed code rule for Section 50 > (photovoltaics) of the CE Code (Canada's electrical code book) that wants to > see all PV wires protected from potential rodent damage. > > It is suggesting that "all" PV wires be protected in conduit, even under the > array on a roof. I see that this would require that mod manufactures bring > back the j-box for conduit attachmentYeah right! > and micro-inverter mfgrs either allow for DC conduit connection or have the > MC connectors protruding directly from the unit with no exposed wire. > > I'm aware of wire mesh that can wrap around the edges of an array to limit > rodent access, but unless the mesh is attached to the roof I'm sure a > determined rodent will find a way > It seems that protecting the 'wiring area' would be a simpler solution than > enclosing the wires in conduit. > I have my doubts that this proposal will go thru but you never know. Good > thing that 2012 CE Code was just released, so we have til 2015 to deal with > this. > > Comments and suggestions would be appreciated. > > benn > Sent from a 'smart' phone, with tiny keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Proposed CE Code Rule -rodent damage control
Wrenches, It has come to my attention that there is a proposed code rule for Section 50 (photovoltaics) of the CE Code (Canada's electrical code book) that wants to see all PV wires protected from potential rodent damage. It is suggesting that "all" PV wires be protected in conduit, even under the array on a roof. I see that this would require that mod manufactures bring back the j-box for conduit attachmentYeah right! and micro-inverter mfgrs either allow for DC conduit connection or have the MC connectors protruding directly from the unit with no exposed wire. I'm aware of wire mesh that can wrap around the edges of an array to limit rodent access, but unless the mesh is attached to the roof I'm sure a determined rodent will find a way It seems that protecting the 'wiring area' would be a simpler solution than enclosing the wires in conduit. I have my doubts that this proposal will go thru but you never know. Good thing that 2012 CE Code was just released, so we have til 2015 to deal with this. Comments and suggestions would be appreciated. benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with tiny keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Ladders for Inspectors
This issue came up for me as well. I dont recall at the moment where it is written, perhaps it was OSHA, but apparently the contractor (permit puller) is responsible for supplying access and safety equip ie, fall protection (with exception of personal PPE, boots, hat, glasses) for inspectors to inspect the permitted work. You do bring up a valid issue re leaving a ladder up for them, especially considering they typically leave a pretty big window open for when they will drop by. I believe that this puts the onus on the inspector to provide an accurate inspection time. I'm impressed that your inspector even wants to get up on a ladder!!! benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with tiny keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. On 2011-09-01, at 8:46 AM, "Jason Szumlanski" wrote: > Is anyone being forced to leave ladders up and secured in place for > inspectors? One jurisdiction in our neck of the woods is insisting that we do > this. I believe this is a serious risk to public safety, and I won’t be > responsible for some homeowner or curious child getting injured on or around > a ladder propped against a building. The jurisdiction does not do timed > inspections, so we can’t even be there to raise the ladder for them. > > > > Can anyone point to some resources (OSHA?) that I can use to convince the > building official that this is a very bad idea? > > > > Jason Szumlanski > > Fafco Solar > > > > ___ > List sponsored by Home Power magazine > > List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org > > Options & settings: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List-Archive: > http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org > > List rules & etiquette: > www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm > > Check out participant bios: > www.members.re-wrenches.org > ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Battery interconnect cable length
Since batteries seem to be a hot topic lately, I've got a question... ...in a single 48V string, (24 x 2V) if each interconnect cable is 14"-4/0awg and one cable in the middle of the string must be longer (btwn 20"-24" total length)... How detrimental will that be to the overall efficiency? Should it be OK or should the awg size for the longer cable be larger? What other factors should I consider? Thanks, benn Sent from a 'smart' phone, with tiny keys. Please excuse shortcuts and typos. ___ List sponsored by Home Power magazine List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Options & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
