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2016-07-01 Thread Jeff Oldham
Has anyone R&R a single cell from an Outback AGM 2 cell can? The manual speaks 
to being careful to not let one slide out so that is encouraging, but I'm 
concerned about putting it back in. Do they have any tendency to bulge and make 
it difficult to replace? I have an extremely tight, steep and nearly 
inaccessible existing battery location that is not conducive to battery 
relocation or any reasonable rigging to handle 200# 2) cell cans. I hope a 
fellow Wrench has had to deal as I cannot get any answers from the manu. Thanks 
and have a fun and safe holiday weekend!


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[RE-wrenches] What are the most reliable OTG washers these days?

2015-12-22 Thread Jeff Oldham
I'm particularly interested in ones that are happy on Outback inverters, front 
loaders preferred. Thanks and Happy Holidays!!


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Re: [RE-wrenches] phone app/shading programs

2015-08-05 Thread Jeff Oldham
Hi Jay, I also use and like a lot "Sun Seeker", very nice features. My 
Pathfinder is collecting dust.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Pumping

2015-05-07 Thread Jeff Oldham
I would look at the AC options. The money saved over the DC or AC\DC pumps may 
well purchase the extra PV required for the increase in energy draw. Come 
winter time that larger array with a much lower pumping load will be most 
welcome for any OTG system further increasing the value of this option lowering 
genset run time.  With PV so cheap these days the highest efficiency is not 
always the best option anymore for OTG.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Using a Midnite Classic for Hydro

2015-03-20 Thread Jeff Oldham
Thanks Jay. My preferred method and most economical as well as no cost was also 
mentioned by you I was just asking if anyone can fault it -  "8. Other option.  
You can run the CC set points 5v above what you want and then run AUX 2 5v 
below ( or what you actually want) and then connect the AUX 2 to the dump load. 
 So it'll dump as the bulk/absorb/float. So the CC will never disconnect, but 
the diversion load will act like it is". This gives me full charge regulation 
while the CC is ALWAYS charging with the AUX doing the actual regulation. I'll 
stick in a time delay to minimize rapid cycling and we're good to go. I would 
have approached this design very differently had I known that the Classic would 
not actually protect the turbine from freewheeling w/o a $1000+ add on. I 
probably would have gone with 48V transmission and spent the money or highly 
reliable wire instead. However, the more I think about this AUX control method 
the better it is sounding as it allows high V transmission.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Using a Midnite Classic for Hydro

2015-03-19 Thread Jeff Oldham
Thanks Bob and all for the feedback. I would prefer to avoid the hassle and 
expense of the Triac's and gutting the hydro to remove the rectification for an 
AC output. We are not sure what the actual VOC freewheeling potential is 
because it was shutdown when it soared to 253V quickly as he did not want to 
smoke the Classic. I'm not thrilled about reducing jet flow rates to control 
VOC because that also means a reduction in output. Does anyone see any issue 
with my thought of setting the Classic setpoints comfortably above all Solar 
FM60 setpoints and letting the lower settings driving the AUX do the charge 
regulation via load dump? Is this just too simple and easy to be a effective 
solution? The load dump is a custom heater in the customers bathroom that he 
desires to get the most heat possible. Thus not wanting to limit hydro 
production that is not all that large to begin with. With continued 
appreciation, -jeff


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[RE-wrenches] Using a Midnite Classic for Hydro

2015-03-19 Thread Jeff Oldham
Finding this application quite frustrating - Harris 120Vdc 1kW turbine, Classic 
250, 48V batt., 1200W load dump. The manual downloaded just before purchase 
stated: "This mode will NOT go to resting even when the input has been 
disconnected and will always stay awake so the turbine has the least chance of 
over-spinning." It now seems that this is not the case and this sentence is no 
longer in the manual. My installer cannot get Midnite to confirm one way or the 
other and they have been guessing for over a month on how to keep the CC from 
going into RESTING that open circuits the hydro and puts the CC into hyperVOC 
at 253V and will never reconnect. To complicate things there is also ~4kW of PV 
on FM60's, when they drive up batt V. to above what the Classic wants it drops 
into RESTING and back into HyperVoc. Midnite has been very responsive and have 
suggested every possible setting and combination and my installer has made the 
3 hour RT drive far too many times to only find the most recent "suggestion to 
try" another approach not working. INSOMNIA does not do as the name implies and 
still allows the CC to step out if external charging elevates the V above what 
the Classic wants. i.e. FM60 in Bulk, Absorb or EQ. when the Classic wants to 
Float.  I fully realize that the Clipper will deal with this for a considerable 
amount of money, but I've heard of several folks using a Classic or Outback w/o 
a Clipper to deal with turbines w/o allowing freewheeling and runaway VOC. If 
the turbine is not dropped by the Classic the VOC will never exceed 120Vdc. Is 
there anyone of you out there that knows: 1) Is there a way to keep a Classic 
from ever moving into RESTING, a true INSOMNIA? If it will not do as originally 
stated in the manual I need someone to step up and say so, so we can stop 
guessing and wasting time.2) If so what is the secret, please? I really like 
all of Midnite's products and they are better than most with reasonable prices, 
support has always been 1st rate. This application oddly seems to have all of 
us at a loss pulling our hair out and losing money. With much appreciation for 
all input.


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[RE-wrenches] PV direct to a 230Vac pump?

2014-06-17 Thread Jeff Oldham
Anyone know of a way to power an AC 230V pump PV direct? AeroVironment’s 
USPC-5000/2000 are no longer made. No, a DC pump will not fulfill this need. 
Thanks 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Source for wire

2014-03-03 Thread Jeff Oldham
I've been getting mine for years off of eBay. It is hard to find it by the foot 
but in 25' increments is easy and the prices are so good that even buying an 
extra 50' is still a deal. The non-jacketed 2-3 conductor is cheaper but it is 
a solid wire and not my preference for splicing. Stick with the jacketed stuff. 
Search: Submersible Well Wire 10-2, 12-3, etc. Everything I purchased was 
US made and respected brands with full listings. BTW - also great for crimp on 
lugs and heat shrink, I've not found a better price on battery cable either.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Cycle Life

2013-12-18 Thread Jeff Oldham
I've been doing jobs in Mexico for a couple of decades and have seen amazing 
survival of Rolls batteries in the worse of conditions and the typical replies 
of "what's an EQ?". I'm sold on them and here state side I have yet to see a 
premature failure. I've seen SANDIA and NREL reports that indicate that 80% 
cycling yields the best economics, i.e. $/kWh/life. I have a monster bank (32 
cans -  12V @1690Ah of Hawker) in S. Mexico that is still going strong after 6 
years of 70% daily DOD (2200 ~ @ 70% DOD) and to make matters worse they hoover 
around 95F and hit 105-110F on charging. These should have been toast a couple 
of years ago. With PV so cheap these days many of us are migrating towards 
deeper daily cycling and robust PV recovery. Happy Holidays all! -jeff


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Kohler 14RES phantom load?

2013-08-22 Thread Jeff Oldham
Thank you Tom and Michael. Tom, are you saying that the load is DC/battery 
only, I understood it required an 120Vac input, no?


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[RE-wrenches] keeping mice and wasps out

2013-08-21 Thread Jeff Oldham
I've mentioned before but worth repeating - Dryer sheets (like Bounce) work 
extremely well at keeping nearly all pests at least 3' away from them. They 
last 2-3 months and then need replacement. I have them under my genny, washer, 
hoods of all vehicles, elec. panels, etc..No more mice, wasps or hornets!


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[RE-wrenches] Kohler 14RES phantom load?

2013-08-21 Thread Jeff Oldham
I know I read it in here and can't find it now, can anyone tell me the 24/7 
load a Kohler 14RES poses? much thanks!


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Wasps, rats and mice no more

2013-05-07 Thread Jeff Oldham
this is my gem - Dryer sheets (like Bounce) these hideous things smell 
God-awful to me and it seems many other lifeforms as well. I wear latex gloves 
or use my needle nose to touch them! A mouse, rat, wasp and most anything will 
not get within several feet of these noxious things! I put them in gensets, 
electrical enclosures, tractors, quads, under the hood of vehicles, battery 
boxes, washing machines etc. Anywhere you want the devils away from. They seem 
to last about 3 months. These will save you a fortune in mouse chewed wires and 
manifold nests when under your hood. A customer recently paid a few $100 for a 
new wiring harness in his genset due to mice antics. If you have issues that 
call for a spray approach I recently discovered an effective "safe" natural 
organic insecticide - EcoSmart. This contains only essential oils of Rosemary, 
Clove and Peppermint that naturally contain Octopamine that disrupts the 
central nervous system in invertebrates. You can spray it on eatables and 
consume the same day as these oils are completely harmless to mammals. I say 
"safe" because it does get to nearly all invertebrates like Honey bees and lady 
bugs for example, use carefully. Personally, for these reasons I do not use it 
around plants. Mostly for ant invasions is my use. I found it at Ace Hardware 
and I see that Home D. carries it too. For in ground yellow jackets (meat bees 
to some) at night place a clear glass bowel over the entry and berm up as short 
as possible a dirt seal around the edge. The hornets will come out and see 
daylight and do not attempt to dig a new way out and the entire nest will 
dehydrate after 3-5 days in feeble attempts to fly to the sky. This time of the 
year I chase queen yellow jackets with one of those fly zapper "tennis rackets" 
and put them down before they nest. each queen you take out means 15,000-60,000 
less hornets in your area! The queens are the 1st out in the season for several 
weeks and are huge, 2-4x the size of the workers. Please don't dump chem's into 
the earth! OK, I'm on a roll - a little piece of scotch tape on a mosquito bite 
will instantly stop the itch for good (unless you scratched the hell out of it 
1st). -jeff o


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Remote relay options

2012-12-05 Thread Jeff Oldham
If you can live w/o power at the garage during genny support, then simply 
connect that circuit to the Line side of the ATS. If that is not an option then 
I might look into narrowing the PVI AC window from 216V (low end) to 220V, this 
assumes that the utility is at least 230V. Then set the genny to about 215V and 
all should be fine. If you have a genny that is bigger than 25kW you MIGHT be 
able to sync to it, but this can be a can-o-worms with VAR issues. You should 
start by giving Campbell Scientific a call and explore their wireless options, 
it can get pricy but it is high quality gear.

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Water pump query

2012-11-20 Thread Jeff Oldham
I would try to find the Lorentz, I've been getting them from 
www.genproenergy.com w/o issue but I seem to recall them telling me that being 
that I've been a long time customer w/o good local options they can continue to 
support me, they stock Lorentz and are great folks to work with. If you get 
hung up Allan contact me off-list and I'll see what I can do for you.  Happy 
Thanksgiving!!


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Max Insolation

2012-09-18 Thread Jeff Oldham
Several years ago I measured 1250-1280 consistently over 2 weeks between 
16,000' - 18,000' in Tibet with my Daystar. Readings remain normal to this day 
still, it's a great little meter.  My research before I left on the trip 
revealed that if one allows for a 1% gain in current per 1000' ASL you will be 
well covered as it is closer to 1/2 of this modifier. Ended up doing hydro, 
never know what you'll find! Your readings do seem a bit ripe, I would suggest 
you find another insolation meter to compare to, if an issue Daystar will 
repair at a reasonable cost. -jeff


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Honda EU3000i pranks

2012-04-13 Thread Jeff Oldham
The inverter was a VFX, keep in mind however it turned out not to be an 
inverter issue but instead too high of an AC input setting.


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[RE-wrenches] Honda EU3000i pranks

2012-04-05 Thread Jeff Oldham
I recently had a costly lesson with one of these usually sweet gensets - With a 
good and fast meter like my Fluke 189 you can get wacky Hz readings. I had one 
that the inverter would not accept. checked V and Hz and saw the Hz at over 
1000. Talked to Honda service center and they confirmed that the genny's 
inverter module contained ALL control parts and if there is a V, Hz, low power 
or constant overload it will be this single module. So, $900 later and a quick 
and easy swap, the problem did not go away and the Hz was still crazy. Talked 
to service center again, they confirmed that it was the module but could not 
believe that the new one was defective and asked if I could bring it to them. I 
did and their meters read 60Hz, all 3 of the meters they had in the shop, put 
mine on it and over 1000Hz again. Plugged my leads into the shop utility power 
and it was 60Hz and so it was on a Honda 1000 and 2000, they had another 
EU3000i in the shop and again I got over 1000. OK, a call into Honda now this 
time we got a rep that saw this before and said it is normal for this with a 
very fast meter and ONLY on the EU3000i no other genny they make! Took it back, 
put the old inverter module back in and still no connection to inverter. Now 
(perhaps before?) I check his inverter settings, the AC input current was set 
too high!! UUuurrggg, never had my trusty Fluke live up to its brand name 
before. So, stuck with an inverter module for a EU3000i with 5 mins. on it, 
anyone need one contact me off list. Don't get caught in this one!


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Vent Pipes under an array?

2011-12-15 Thread Jeff Oldham
The AAV cap mentioned in a previous post is a clean and easy fix if your 
jurisdiction allows them. Most do and I'm aware of many installers using these, 
although I have not. It could be that some folks are getting away with it 
because the inspector had no idea of the attic terminations. In many cases a 
Loop Vent may be allowed, I have one on my island kitchen sink. I can't come up 
a good reason to disallow them.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] SWI Stacking cable

2011-12-08 Thread Jeff Oldham
If you Google it you will find a couple of folks with these still in stock for 
about $50.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] SMA Sunny Design temperature/voltage calculations

2011-12-02 Thread Jeff Oldham
My vote as well - SMA please oh please make both available! I too deeply miss 
the old tool and the "improved" clunky version typically has me using tools 
other than SMA's out of frustration. 


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Re: [RE-wrenches] OutBack Radian

2011-12-02 Thread Jeff Oldham
I've used the Radian w/MATE3 and like them both a lot. I've never been a big 
fan of the FLEXnet but with the MATE3 it is a mighty impressive combo. The 
Radian is my inverter of choice for these international projects and can't wait 
for 3 phase stacking, but Outback will wisely do the 50Hz 1st. The MATE3 is 
much easier to program and for the end user to navigate than the older 
versions. The Shortcut keys can be very helpful for the nervous customer that 
typically freaks out over MATE2's. Also the remote monitoring will be very 
sweet for out of country installs and the MATE3 gives critical troubleshooting 
DAS. Good luck with your project. -jeff o


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Low-power consuming LEDs

2011-10-27 Thread Jeff Oldham
SUPER low prices on LED's can be found here: www.dealextreme.com, be sure to 
only purchase Cree products for high quality. Their LED flashlights are killer, 
you can get 2000 lumens for under $50 delivered. I have a 1200 lumen that is 
almost too bright when used up close on brighter objects, be sure to get one 
w/brightness levels then go for 2000 lumens!


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Three-phase off-grid

2011-10-25 Thread Jeff Oldham
IMHO no one makes a better inverter than Exceltec. However, in these large 
stacks the idle current can really add up under low to no loads. You should 
look at average draw and do the quick math to see if it makes sense as you'll 
need to add additional generation to offset this. To my knowledge they are not 
"cascading slaves" like Outback does. Please correct me if I'm mistaken Dan. 
BTW - Outback is limited to only 3 inverters for 10.8kW in a 3 phase stack and 
you'll needs lots of dedicated distribution circuits, not one main panel.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Push-in Wire Connectors

2011-10-20 Thread Jeff Oldham
NEMA 4 enclosures do not require WP/RT connections. The enclosure provides the 
protection, just like all outdoor equipment like HVAC units, outdoor panels and 
terminal blocks inside NEMA 4. Ever see a WP breaker connection other than an 
open lug or how about rooftop combiners?


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Midnight Classic

2011-10-05 Thread Jeff Oldham
The Apollo is ok, but lacks the quality of data logging that Outback has and 
someday Midnite. They got me into trouble in advertizing 200Voc when it is 
really "180Voc" and that 180Voc is probably a bit optimistic at that as I had 
several fail in the 170-175Voc range. All replaced with the Classic 200's w/o 
any issues.

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its potential sooner than later. From the Solar, Wind and Hydro powered office 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Midnight Classic

2011-10-04 Thread Jeff Oldham
I have used both and like them, however they have been released too soon and 
much of the features and software/firmware have not been developed yet. This 
has been an ongoing "within the next month" chant for far too long now. The 
good news is when these updates are ready you load them over the 'net but it 
likely means a return trip to your customer to walk them through it. The worst 
deficiencies at the moment are no Auto EQ (and a couple of my customers can 
never recall the slightly complex manual process) and no Data Logging. There is 
much more than this to come but these are the biggies in my book, especially 
Data Logging. My favorite feature is the fact that a 150, 200 and 250Voc are 
just that, then there is battery voltage head room on top of that before smoke. 
This is very unlike most of the competition where 150Voc is really 145ish, and 
200 is really 180. If you must have 200 or 250Voc then there is little choice 
beyond the pricey Schneider 600Voc. From the Solar, Wind and Hydro powered 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Designing PV systems for lightning prone areas

2011-09-23 Thread Jeff Oldham
I don't recall how many ground rods we used but it was not a lot as we had such 
an extensive buried grid (I think 4, 1 at each corner). We bonded to the rebar 
in several places. Never have done ultra-deep extended rods, they are such a 
%&*# to drive just 8' I would not even want to try! Ground grids seem so much 
better and easier and I feel real good about encircling the structure as well.
I have had Delta's bulge and rupture in the past with the protected equipment 
surviving. I know they are borderline false security thus my migration to 
better options. One can easily spend a small fortune on protection schemes with 
wild manu's claims abound. Bottom line is do the best we can and afford, in the 
end you're at the mercy of enormous forces of nature as you flip the coin, one 
side is Murphy's Law, the other is Luck.

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Designing PV systems for lightning prone areas

2011-09-22 Thread Jeff Oldham
Yep, lots of copper in the ground is key as is a suppression specialist. I have 
a 23kW array on the top of a structure on the top of a 400' remote island at 8 
degrees from the Equator. This site averages 125 strikes/year. We built a 4/0 
CU ground grid completely around and under the building and have a lightning 
rod at each corner of the roof tied to this grid. Delta's everywhere and solid 
grounding. In over 5 years we have "only" lost 2 CC's and one HUB10. I consider 
this to be exceptional good considering the exposure. We are looking at both 
Outback and Midnite solutions and 86 the Deltas. Good luck, 'cuz w/lightning 
luck counts for a lot! -jeff o From the Solar, Wind and Hydro powered office of 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Pump

2011-08-24 Thread Jeff Oldham
I sure would put the pump near the bottom assuming the pump is rated for the 
submersion, perhaps 10-20' off the bottom. The only down side is the extra drop 
pipe and cable and that is pretty small price to add to the overall project and 
assures the best yield possible over the long system and well life.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Pump

2011-08-23 Thread Jeff Oldham
You should be able to find a 1/3hp or at most a 1/2hp AC sub. pump that will be 
close to 2gpm and you can "choke" it down to 1gpm with a gate valve, but it 
would likely be better (and more efficient) to run wide open and rely on low 
water protection to manage just that.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Lithium Ion Phosphate for grid back up

2011-08-23 Thread Jeff Oldham
I 2nd what Ray Waters is saying. Much too soon, BMS will be an insane 
challenge, we rarely care about weight and footprint like the EV's do. 
Returning defective cells to China IF they accept responsibility for the 
failure - I don't think so!! Sex appeal is overwhelming good judgement, one of 
the curses of our industry.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Large, off grid

2011-08-19 Thread Jeff Oldham
Yes it does!


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Large, off grid

2011-08-19 Thread Jeff Oldham
The new Outback Radian GS8048 (aptly nicknamed "The Beast") is one extremely 
impressive inverter! I've been beta testing one on a customer's system for a 
couple of months and it is a beast alright! However, it will not do 3 phase at 
this time. It has 2) 4kW 120/240V modules in it, if one fails the other 
continues to provide split phase and it can be field serviced and new firmware 
field upgraded as well. No load idle draw is only 30W max., I'm not aware of 
any 8kW inverter that is this low. But this bad boy really shines in motor 
surge. This customer has a full wood shop that was powered by his 15kW genset, 
that could only run one 3hp motor at a time, a second start would stall the 
genny. Not with the Beast, we turned on the 3hp table saw, then a 3hp 
compressor, then a 2hp planner and then and then and then until we had EVERY 
motor in his shop running, there were a total of 12.5 h.p. of motors running 
along with house loads and the Beast begged for more. The owners dream of 
having a honkin' dust vac system can now be fulfilled! It is shipping now as I 
understand it. Also this is a new look for an inverter, it looks a lot like an 
appliance (tankless water heater), no led's, switches, displays, nada just a 
very clean looking SS cabinet. Will only interface with the Mate3, another 
impressive Outback product albiet pricey but well worth the money.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Tracstar Linear Tracker

2011-08-10 Thread Jeff Oldham

Tracstar is as good as any of them, however I would not track this array unless 
it is dedicated to a pumping load or MAYBE grid tie on a PBI. My issue is that 
PV is too cheap now to do much in the way of justification for the added 
expense and reliability issues. We are so lucky to have energy systems that can 
produce power with no moving parts and have an extremely long life that I just 
cannot see intentionally adding complex and expensive moving parts to undo this 
elegance. Closely look at your math and see just how close the economics are 
considering PV can be retailed for likely under $2.20/W. Lastly and perhaps 
most importantly, you should consider tracker service life. With modules 
lasting 50+ years you surely will have to replace the tracker well before the 
array, if not twice or more. Personally, I think trackers lasting more than 
15-20 years w/o significant servicing is not realistic. Not much in the solar 
world more aggravating then seeing the sun shining on the BACK of your array at 
almost noon! It seems that we spend a lot of time trying to talk customers out 
of sexy notions like trackers, battery back-up grid tied systems and wind where 
there is little. I think trackers can have their place, but not many! And this 
is coming from a guy w/a tracker for 20 years and I refuse to remove it,I just 
keep rebuilding it (they are indeed very cool when working). All expansions 
have been fixed mounted.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] inverter waveform for LED lighting

2011-06-10 Thread Jeff Oldham
If there is an option to keep it all on DC you'll be way ahead in cost, 
efficiency, simplicity and reliability. In either case talk to the friendly 
pros at Holly Solar as they know solar and LEDs better than anyone and make 
some of the best AND affordable LED's in the world. 707-763-6173 -jeff o From 
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[RE-wrenches] Trace SWI stacking interface cable?

2011-05-27 Thread Jeff Oldham
I can't find a DIY paper on making you're own SWI stacking interface cable for 
the old Trace SW inverters. It seems all links I find are broken. Any help out 
there? I would be ok if someone had one for sale too! Thanks, -jeff o From the 
Solar, Wind and Hydro powered office of Jeff Oldham/Regenerative SOLutions

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Fwd: Hydrometer source

2011-05-25 Thread Jeff Oldham
Sorry about the delay Jay, been away. I simply wipe it off w/a paper towel 
between each cell test. The minimal film left over, if any, is an insignificant 
factor to the following test.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Fwd: Hydrometer source

2011-05-16 Thread Jeff Oldham
Search for Battery Refractometers on eBay, I got a nice one for under $25 from 
China, exact same item I've seen here in the U.S. for >$70. I keep a small vial 
of distilled water in the pouch for calibration, just a drop each time is all 
it takes. They often include a scale for Antifreeze readings, as does mine. I 
don't use my hydrometer much anymore.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Slow clocks

2011-04-04 Thread Jeff Oldham
Your assumption is right on. We used to use clocks as an old trick to check the 
Hz of gensets. Depending on the uinit you may be able to adjust this via the 
governor. Use a modern Hz meter though, some system monitors or inverters will 
display Hz as well.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] One renewable disconnect.

2011-03-02 Thread Jeff Oldham
That 5 pole disco will be one extremely expensive piece of wall art! The quick 
and easy (albeit not perfect) solution is to put it all into your AC combiner 
panel as you suggested and place the wind production meter before the wind 
input breaker. The solar production meter will now be net of both and likely 
what your client wants to know 99% of the time anyway and to get just the solar 
production it is a simple deduction of numbers between the meters.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] xantrex 600v controller

2011-02-21 Thread Jeff Oldham
It is still "vaporware" at this point. Rumors of a release 2nd or 3rd Q of this 
year. We'll see.Midnite Solar Classic 250's are starting to ship now as are 
the Apollo HV80's. From the Solar, Wind and Hydro powered office of Jeff 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Seam clamps with or w/o rails

2011-02-18 Thread Jeff Oldham
Also be careful w/high standoffs (keep the rail as close to the S-5! as 
possible) or that "long" lever will rock the S-5! and loosen it on the seam 
forcing a lot of back and forth to re-tightening set screws. A torque wrench 
properly set will also be helpful in preventing this. It is indeed easier 
w/rails but sure looks a lot better w/o them! Good luck!-jeff  From the Solar, 
Wind and Hydro powered office of Jeff Oldham/Regenerative SOLutions

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Re: [RE-wrenches] "Keep that there PV off my grid!"

2011-02-18 Thread Jeff Oldham
It is my understanding that it is a Federal Mandate that excess power be 
purchased at avoided cost (wholesale) if the generator demands it and meets all 
utility interconnection rules. Has this changed or have I been mistaken all 
these years?


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Re: [RE-wrenches] PV water pumping

2011-02-11 Thread Jeff Oldham
Jay is correct about the economics, but sometimes we must live with them as the 
only way to increase daily water production. However when the tracker fails 
they will not be making the daily need anymore and it is far more likely to be 
left dead than even batteries. In developing communities I have often used a 
"village tracker", a manually tracked array that anyone walking by can move to 
the sun. Along the line of Buddhist Prayer Wheels that are kept spinning by 
passerby's.  As an aside I once did a 40kW grid-tied PV system for a temple to 
offset the load of the countless motors spinning their Prayer Wheels (not 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] PV water pumping

2011-02-10 Thread Jeff Oldham
I strongly agree with the "no batteries" approach. All issues mentioned come to 
fruit and in far too few years those batteries will be abused to toast and now 
the system will sit for a very long time if not forever and no water for the 
community. Your best options are to live with what you can get PV-direct (I'm 
even hesitant to use trackers in these applications) or drill additional wells 
nearby if you cannot stack pumps in the well with minimal drop pipe sizing or 
larger boreholes. On a side note, I'm always hearing from remote folks that 
they cannot get distilled water and are forced to use whatever and those that 
can pay through the nose for tiny red bottles of it. I point out that it falls 
for free from the sky whenever it rains - collect it!


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[RE-wrenches] Be careful upgrading older Outback propducts!

2011-02-10 Thread Jeff Oldham
I continue to have issues with inaccurate MX60 meters, I can calibrate for 
EITHER the lower voltage setpoints OR the higher but can't get accuracy across 
full scale. I've seen this on nearly every MX I've been around. This has forced 
many a customer to run to start their genny on low V falsely. It will display 
12.2V when reality is 12.6V. Outback has not adaquately address this to me as 
of yet and at one point they offered to update the software in several MX's 
that I'm involved with. When they came back the metering error was still there 
and now they will no longer communicate with the MATE completely. You can 
access about 1/4 of the data at best. They then updated several MATES and still 
little communication. We don't know if it is a MATE issue or a MX one. This has 
been a giant step backwards and they tell me that they cannot put back the old 
codes. They also have not been able to tell me if the new MATE just released 
can fully communicate with older MX's after several requests for an answer. If 
you think updating a customers older products will make them happy with your 
awesome service take a long pause. I would be nervous updating a MATE on an 
older system and certainly would not do a MX. -jeff From the Solar, Wind and 
Hydro powered office of Jeff Oldham/Regenerative SOLutions

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[RE-wrenches] WD-40 was cleaning modules

2011-01-05 Thread Jeff Oldham
I just came across this today, maybe worth a try on those modules as well as 
all of these uses, many I had no idea of. I've always considered WD-40 about as 
useless as Thompson's Water Seal, who'd of thunk it?! -  
WD-40   uses:  1.Protects silver from tarnishing.
2.   Removes road tar and grime  from cars.
3.   Cleans and  lubricates guitar strings.
4.Gives floors that 'just-waxed' sheen without making them  slippery.
5.   Keeps flies  off cows.
6.   Restores and  cleans chalkboards.
7.   Removes  lipstick stains.
8.   Loosens  stubborn zippers.
9.   Untangles  jewelry chains.
10.   Removes  stains from stainless steel sinks.
11.Removes dirt and grime from the barbecue grill.
12.   Keeps ceramic/terra cotta  garden pots from  oxidizing.
13.Removes tomato stains from clothing.
14.   Keeps glass shower doors  free of water spots.
15.Camouflages scratches in ceramic and marble floors.
16.   Keeps scissors working  smoothly.
17.Lubricates noisy door hinges on vehicles and doors in  homes.
18.   It removes black  scuff marks from the kitchen floor!  Use WD-40 for  
those  nasty tar and scuff marks on flooring.  It doesn't seem to harm  the 
finish and you won't have to scrub nearly as hard to get them off.   Just 
remember to open some windows if you have a lot of marks.
19.   Bug guts will eat away the  finish on your car if not removed 
quickly!Use  WD-40!
20.   Gives a children's  playground gym slide a shine for a super fast  
slide.
21.   Lubricates gear shift and  mower deck lever for ease of handling on 
riding mowers...
22.   Rids kids rocking chairs  and swings of squeaky noises.
23.Lubricates tracks in sticking home windows and makes them  easier to 
open..
24.   Spraying  an umbrella stem makes it easier to open and close.
25.   Restores and cleans padded  leather dashboards in vehicles, as well 
as vinyl bumpers.
26.   Restores and cleans roof  racks on vehicles.
27.Lubricates and stops squeaks in electric fans
28.   Lubricates wheel sprockets  on tricycles, wagons, and bicycles for 
easy handling.
29.   Lubricates fan belts on  washers and dryers and keeps them running  
smoothly.
30.   Keeps rust from forming on  saws and saw blades, and other tools.
31.Removes splattered grease on stove.
32.   Keeps bathroom mirror from  fogging.
33.   Lubricates  prosthetic limbs.
34.   Keeps  pigeons off the balcony (they hate the smell).
35.   Removes all traces of duct  tape.
36.   Folks even spray it  on their arms, hands, and knees to relieve 
arthritis pain.
37.Florida€™s favorite use is: 'cleans and removes love bugs 
 from grills and bumpers.'
38.The favorite use in the state of New York, WD-40 protects  the 
Statue of Liberty from the elements.
39.   WD-40 attracts fish.   Spray a little on live bait or lures and you 
will be  catching the big one in no time.   Also, it's a lot cheaper than the 
chemical attractants   that are made for just that purpose.  Keep in mind 
though,  using  some chemical laced baits or lures for fishing are not  allowed 
in some states.
40.Use it for fire ant bites.  It takes the sting away  immediately and 
 stops the itch.
41.WD-40 is great for removing crayon from walls.  Spray  on the mark 
and wipe with a clean rag.
42.Also, if you've discovered that your teenage daughter has  washed 
and dried  a tube of lipstick with a load of laundry,  saturate the lipstick  
spots with WD-40 and rewash.  Presto!   The lipstick is gone!
43.If you sprayed WD-40 on the distributor cap, it would  displace the  
moisture and allow the car to start.
 
P.S.  The basic ingredient is  FISH  OIL!!!!!!


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Grundfos

2010-11-10 Thread Jeff Oldham

I'm having much better luck with Lorentz than Grundfos for several years now. 
My 1st choice is always Lorentz now. Easy to field service and I love the 
controls on the wall and out of the well. Dislike no AC-DC swapping and 
narrower V window and the need for 6 wires down the hole.  Good prices and 
service from GenPro in SD. I've had a trouble free ETA pump (predecessor to the 
Lorentz)  in my well for 10 years now. 

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery cell shorting

2010-10-22 Thread Jeff Oldham
Sure sounds like constant overcharging. What is the size of the battery bank 
what is the charge rate and what are the setpoints for Absorb, Absorb Time, 
Float and EQ (you should also confirm these with a trusted VOM during a charge 
cycle)? When batteries get too high on V, fast charging or excessive amps they 
will get quit hot (well over 110F) and after about 115-120F the plates can 
swell, deform and even structurally fail. Often when this happens they will 
short out killing the cell or worse yet causing a fire. I would take this 
situation very seriously and deal quickly.

Good luck!

-jeff o


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Re: [RE-wrenches] paralleling FM-60's

2010-10-20 Thread Jeff Oldham
Sorry, I did not read enough of this string, I wrongly assumed the issue was 
the 4/0 wire not being large enough for the addition. Perhaps be ever more 
conservative on the PV expansion and use a Apollo HV100? The migration to 48V 
is certainly a logical solution but can be a horrible economic solution if they 
have an expensive battery bank that is too new to replace and too old to add to 
which is quite likely the case, it gets even worse if there are 24V loads like 
refers and freezers. Those SW's seem to live a mighty long time, one of the 
best "do-all" inverters even made. 


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Re: [RE-wrenches] paralleling FM-60's

2010-10-20 Thread Jeff Oldham
I think you run a very high risk of smoking the controllers. So rather than 
waste the money, gear and potential fire I would suggest using either a Apollo 
HV-80 (200Voc) or the brand new Schneider/Xantrex 600Voc controller - the new 
holy grail of controllers! Then rewire the array accordingly. 

Good luck!

-jeff o


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Re: [RE-wrenches] On Demand Heaters for SDHW

2010-09-20 Thread Jeff Oldham
One of my favorite marriages is a solar ready (preheat) tankless and a 
ProgressivTube SHW collector. With this combo you get batch type collector that 
is storing the heated water, a 10 yr. P&L warranty, and no pumps, sensors or 
controls on the SDHW side. I double insulate the supply and return lines and in 
most U.S. climes you will not freeze the collector and surely not in So. Cal.  
I have an old SunFamily evacuated tube batch heater that supplies my Takagi 
T-KJr. that works great as the lowest flame modulation at 17k BTU heats little 
and if incoming is hot enough the burners do not even come on. The T-K3 
modulates down to 11k BTU. I do not like electric back-up storage tanks as I 
can't handle the concept of greeting the sunrise with a tank full of hot water! 
For about 4 months of the year my Takagi is simply turned off, if you switch 
the power to it this is very simple and when supplemental hot water is needed 
beyond what the solar is providing you simply flip the power switch and you 
have instant and endless hot water.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] minimum service

2010-08-27 Thread Jeff Oldham
Note that the language states min. service disconnect size, and not 
specifically the size of the service. In the old days we would go round and 
round w/the AHJ over this in OTG systems. In most cases we could point to the 
"Service Disconnect" that was rated at least 100A this being the Main DC 
breaker while the AC output rarely exceeded 30A @ 120V. However, some did not 
buy this and wanted 100A of delivered service, at this point here in CA we 
would have to fall back to Class K regs. This was created to accommodate the 
numerous OTG homes and cabins that could never meet the conventional UBC 
standards. Our home was the 1st court test case in the state as at the time a 
geodesic dome would not meet local codes even though we had blueprints stamped 
by Bucky Fuller himself. Interestingly, their main issue was that they could 
not determine where to draw the line between what was wall and roof!


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Net AC kW Derate Factor for Xantrex XW inverter and XW opinions

2010-08-24 Thread Jeff Oldham
I remain shy about Brand X but I hear nothing but good news about these XW's so 
I'm getting close to taking the plunge. Regarding DC to AC battery based 
conversion efficiency the good rule of thumb for O-T-G systems is 50% STC to AC 
this considers batteries at 1/2 life. You will surely do better out of the gate 
and near the end of battery life you will do worse. For years I balked at this 
50% travesty but time again it has proven to be pretty darn close to reality. 
Consider real life in the heat and minor dust STC - true DC output is perhaps 
as good as 85%, inverter 95% (at best), dust 5-10% loss, wire and connection 
losses 2-5%, battery in (10%) and out (10%) losses and it all adds up. However, 
if you're in float most of the time you might be closer to 65% STC - AC.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Power Loss from Dust on PV Modules

2010-08-24 Thread Jeff Oldham
Here's a wild notion -  if you're o-t-g perhaps it is best to not clean your 
modules all summer! I increased my array size last winter (doubled it) and 
this, my 1st summer, I've found that I'm in float for at least 4 hours/day so I 
decided to not clean my modules here in the dusty mountains and they are 
getting VERY dirty and power is down about 20% and dropping. My point is that 
my modules now have "Ray Bans" on, although they don't look cool I expect a 
slight reduction in module degradation over the years this way. I save a wee 
bit of time, water and effort in return for longer module life and the down 
side is what, I still can make more power than I can use? I must admit that 
looking at filthy modules is not easy and goes against all my solar upbringing 
but I'm adapting quickly to one less chore in this "simple living" life!


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Testing LSAs

2010-08-24 Thread Jeff Oldham
Never heard of a good test as I would expect it to be destructive, these can 
take A LOT of somewhat minor hits before failure and a failure is generally a 
rupture or bulge, bottom line  - if it looks good it likely is.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Voltage discrepancy

2010-08-19 Thread Jeff Oldham
I have seen this on my last 3 MX60 controllers and it is very frustrating and 
looks to be a design flaw. I can calibrate the meters to be accurate at either 
the Absorb point OR the Float point but NOT both!! Not only that but the meter 
calibrations tend to drift a bit in just a matter of days, just .1V not a big 
deal but anymore than that on a 12V sealed battery and it could be an issue. I 
spoke w/Outback about this and heard a mumbled "Ahh, uummm, yeah that is an 
issue". I'm guessing that you're seeing the same thing and when you spoke 
w/your customer again and the meters all agreed I'll bet it is because the MX 
was at the "line up point" of the other meters (just like a broken clock being 
correct twice a day!). The only way to live with this is to get the more 
important Absorb set point right on and take what you get on the lower end. It 
works and is usable but drives customers nuts when they have additional meters. 
In my experience the Tri-mets are dead on.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Padded equipment cases.

2010-08-12 Thread Jeff Oldham
I'm not aware of anyone doing these custom molds but I would encourage you to 
reconsider a DIY system based on Pelican cases. These cases are super strong 
(lifetime warranty), float, water and dust tight and the foam is perf cut into 
cubes that you simply pluck out to create the cavities you need they are about 
1" cubes so nearly any shape can be made. It actually comes out pretty darn 
nice and can be modified as your equip. evolves over time.

-jeff o


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Re: [RE-wrenches] generator surge on outback system

2010-08-12 Thread Jeff Oldham
The Cool Down program does disconnect the genset from the inverter (xfer & 
charger) for the cool down cycle. This likely will solve your issue. If the 
genset was not disconnected the it would remain loaded and there would not be a 
cool down. The whole point of cool down is to have the loads removed so the 
turbo can cool slowly to mitigate and deformity. In most modern machines this 
is generally no longer an issue, but again it should solve your surge.

-jeff o


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Green-Fasten

2010-07-29 Thread Jeff Oldham
I've not used them yet but will on my next job. I had a good look and 
discussion about them at Intersolar and walked away very impressed with the 
brilliant design. When you hold one in your hand you can see it is superior to 
all other competing products not to mention the price of about 1/2 and they 
sell direct to installers! 

-jeff o


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Re: [RE-wrenches] AL wire with DC

2010-07-28 Thread Jeff Oldham
IMHO one should never ever direct bury ANY class of wire, it can be a very 
expensive gamble making the cost of your conduit "insurance policy" an absolute 
bargain. This is one of the DIY'ers #1 mistake in UG wire runs.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] AL wire with DC

2010-07-26 Thread Jeff Oldham
I have used AL wire in DC circuits for 30 years and have never had a problem. 
If you carefully follow the protocols for working with AL you should have the 
same experience. As pointed out the cost difference can be staggering. I'm 
designing an o-t-g 3kW PV system now that has this array 1300' from the 
batteries, AL is the only reasonable answer.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Picking a Quality Chinese PV Module

2010-07-26 Thread Jeff Oldham
I tend to side with Peter on this and can recall the days when folks would not 
buy a German or Japanese product either, now both are respected for quality and 
politics are put aside. I have used both Trina and Yingli. Both have performed 
well out of the box. My most recent install was with Trina and the STC to AC 
was a very impressive 85% and the ambient temp was 85F. Time will tell of 
course, however I've had to deal w/many failed U.S. made modules over the years 
and have been bit in the rear far too many times by the likes of Solarex, 
Siemens, AstroPower and Uni-solar and a massive failure of Japanese made 
Kyocera's.

I've tried the boycott the Chinese thing and the longer I keep my head in the 
sand the more I feel like the joke is on me.

-jeff o


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Interstate UL-16 HC problem

2010-06-29 Thread Jeff Oldham
IMHO Interstate makes a decent battery. It sounds like to me that you are not 
Equalizing but just trying to BULK. You'll need at least one robust EQ cycle to 
bring the SG's in line and likely 2-3 a couple of days apart. At least the 
Magnum's of a couple of years ago are not intuitive to get into EQ, as I recall 
you need to 1st be in BULK charging before it can be set to EQ and this is/was 
done by holding down the "Charger" button until it moves into EQ. Wrenches 
please correct my fading memory if this is not correct. I would get the V to 
62-63 and hold it there for 3-4 hours and then recheck your SG and see if 
further EQ's are in order.

Good luck!

-jeff o


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Re: [RE-wrenches] SQflex pump line verses standard AC pumps

2010-06-29 Thread Jeff Oldham
I agree w/Don's comments and would add that I'm migrating away from Grundfos to 
Lorentz. My main reasons are the poor CS from Grundfos, the inability to 
rebuild the pump in the field and the electronics down the hole. In addition 
Lorentz has a huge line of DC pumps up to 45gpm and soon beyond even that. I 
often use GenPro as my supplier they are in SD. I've yet to have a customer 
need to bypass the solar to run a Grundfos on a genny, true it is a great 
talking and selling point but in reality it is rarely needed if you size for 
their needs properly on solar.

-jeff o


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Re: [RE-wrenches] For Big Bank Off Grid System Connoisseurs

2010-06-29 Thread Jeff Oldham
I use a non-contact IR thermometer and tag the electrolyte.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] For Big Bank Off Grid System Connoisseurs

2010-06-23 Thread Jeff Oldham
I have several 10 Outback inverter stacks in o-t-g applications and I use 66kW 
Prime Power gensets for charging. It is common for me to see a total of 25kW of 
charging w/low battery V although 18kW is about the average. I feel if the 
loads dictate 36kW of inverter power and I can charge at 25kW then supporting 
charging and loads could be 60kW plus. Most of these are in tropical 
environments and controlling battery cell temps has been my biggest challenge 
as I try to balance minimized run time/fuel consumption via robust charge rates 
and keeping cell temps below 105 F. This is not easy with diurnal temps about 
80F. Generous battery can spacing and big time ventilation is mandatory in hot 
climes. 


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Re: [RE-wrenches] off grid generators

2010-06-23 Thread Jeff Oldham
I use a lot of MQ Power, especially the WhiperWatt diesel models for o-t-g. MQ 
has known they are in o-t-g service and I use their Prime Power rated units, 
they have never mentioned any issue with my applications on denied a warranty 
claim. Maybe I'm slipping by but so far I'm well taken care of. I also like 
that they take a 12Vdc start signal that is very handy with Outback systems.


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Re: [RE-wrenches] For Big Bank Off Grid System Connoisseurs

2010-06-22 Thread Jeff Oldham
Those HUP batteries are still under warranty and you very well may have a free 
cell waiting for you, give Rob or Jean a call at NWES and run it past them. 
They offer 1st rate CS and should take good care of you. You won't get much for 
used batteries so I would be inclined to keep them in service even though 4 
strings in parallel is not ideal. I've had reasonable luck with 4 strings 
paralleled by getting my battery/inverter cables all over the bank, at the 
least put 1/2 of your inverters across 2 strings and the other 1/2 on the 
remaining 2 strings (still parallel all 4 strings).

You never mentioned an EQ cycle either, with that limited Absorption time it 
should happen at least every 6 weeks. 


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Supply side tap not allowed

2010-06-17 Thread Jeff Oldham
Thanks all for the good feedback. A service upgrade to this flush mount 
meter/main is beyond what the owner cares to spend as it is a major project 
being it is in a wall that is extremely crowded both structurally and 
electrically. There is no way to get between the meter and main w/o any 
modifications to what was UL listed as is. There is no distribution section, it 
is 200' away and trenching through landscape, gardens and patio's are not an 
option either.

I know all about the horror stories over Zinsco, but the vast majority of their 
problems are in the distribution panels not these simple meter/main's with only 
one breaker that is rail mounted w/o those funky bus and breaker "connections" 
to it. This is a bigger picture issue that I'm raising here - having to secure 
a written letter from the manu on how to tap their panels on ALL jobs that are 
over 120% of bus rating regardless of panel brand or age. I agree that service 
taps rules apply here as do fill calcs and that a listed tap meeting fill 
allowances does not modify the panel to the point of UL violation. I'm meeting 
with the County head of Building next week to discuss further

-jeff o


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Supply side tap not allowed

2010-06-17 Thread Jeff Oldham
Thanks for the input Jeff. This is a basic small Meter/Main (100A) only. The 
feeder leaves the main and runs about 200' to the house. Removing the short 
jumper leads from the meter socket and routing them to another panel and then 
back again to the Main seems like far more modification to the panel then my 
tap. I'm sure it is not listed for this increased conductor length and 
rerouting either.

-jeff o


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[RE-wrenches] Supply side tap not allowed

2010-06-17 Thread Jeff Oldham
I just had my proposal for a supply side tap (between meter and main) of on a 
residential system rejected by the inspector (CA) because he wants a letter 
from the service panel manu detailing the proper method of making this tap and 
that I must strictly follow it. This is a 1st for me, I've done lot's of 
commercial supply side taps as well as residential in numerous jurisdictions 
and this has never been requested. To make matters worse, the manu of this 
service is Zinsco, no letters are coming from this long ago defunct company. IF 
you could even get any manu to do this how many months do you think it would 
take to get and after how many prods? 

The inspector acknowledges that the NEC allows for supply side taps w/PV 
systems as well as noting that nowhere in the NEC does it require this 
permission letter. He says he found discussion about it on the 'net and that 
some feel the taps violate the U.L. on the panel. I can see this take, but feel 
a simple tap is not a significant "modification" to a listed panel and the 
impacts on our installs is significant as those letters will not come easy.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

-jeff o


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

2010-05-26 Thread Jeff Oldham
I've always used the mentioned much easier to find RTV Silcone and have it sun 
exposed for over 10 years and it's doing great, looks like day one.

-jeff o

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Cla-val valve

2010-05-19 Thread Jeff Oldham
Sorry, that should be the 3/4" 124G-01A, also it helps to create a "still well" 
by placing the discharge pipe below the water surface so the surface remains 
still and does not bounce the float around.

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Cla-val valve

2010-05-19 Thread Jeff Oldham
I use the 3/4" 124-01A as it is the same price as the 1/2".

-jeff o

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Solmetric Suneye 210

2010-05-19 Thread Jeff Oldham
SunTracker does within its built-in data base, you can use the iPhone's GPS to 
load it or do it manually.

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Solmetric Suneye 210

2010-05-13 Thread Jeff Oldham
You should also take a look at the slick app for a iPhone or iPod Touch (if you 
don't need or want the phone), it is called "SunTracker" and was recently 
purchased by Solmetric (if you can't beat 'em buy 'em!). Also the "Sun Seeker" 
app is very nice and also gives you shadow path ratio and length for any given 
day and hour. For under $250 you can get all of this and much, much more.

-jeff

>From the Solar, Wind and Hydro powered office of Jeff Oldham/Regenerative 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Lorentz Sub Pump

2010-04-23 Thread Jeff Oldham
Hi all,
Personally I would not consider a a direct burial run of anything as conduit is 
just too cheap and over the years I've had some hard lessons to arrive at this. 
Between sharp rocks, earth movement and varmints it is too risky and a HUGE 
hassle to locate and repair a problem. A long run like 3000' is an ideal 
application for the Cal-Val.

When system pressure exceeds the common 125psi of bladder tanks, then you can 
move on to a hydraulic accumulator (3000 psi!) or make your own stand pipe out 
of a 3' scrap of 4" PVC Sch. 80 (working press. 193, burst min. 1110 psi) or 
for pressures above 200psi go to Galv. but at the max lift of these DC pumps 
you're not going to exceed the rating of Sch. 80 PVC. and probably not Sch. 40. 
(what are you using for the delivery line anyway?). We are really only dealing 
with water hammer here.

For relays, I use standard cheapo 30A, 120V coil for inverter control, single 
module tap as David pointed out with 24Vdc coils for PV-direct. If the PV to 
pump run is long then I would use a cheap "Car battery maintainer" panel for 
under $20 at the pump/relay and use a common SSR that takes a control of 
3-32Vdc. If my pump is very close to the tank I simply run pump power through 
the float switch for the simplest control.

-jeff o

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Lorentz Sub Pump

2010-04-22 Thread Jeff Oldham
Hi Roy,

You do have a choice about controllers, as I mentioned I use off-the-shelf 
components. For your need you have at least 2 sweet options - 1) get a relay to 
switch the pump power and use a float switch to control the coil, go with a SSR 
for even higher reliability.  This is a $50 substitute for a $300 CU-200. 2) 
Use a Cla-val at the tank and a pressure switch and 2gal press. tank at the 
pump. This works at any distance w/o control wires and is fully hydraulic and 
highly reliable plus this valve does not throttle as it reaches full. This is 
my control of choice if the distance between pump and tank is much over 400', 
cost must be considered as this is about a $700 setup.

-jeff o

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>SOLutions


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Grid-tie hydro

2010-04-22 Thread Jeff Oldham
My 1st concern before hardware is legalities. What are the water use rights, 
EPA, Fish and Game, hydro tied to local utility and so on (and on and on) 
issues...? O-t-g responsible gorilla hydro is one thing, permitted to be grid 
connected is a whole 'nother can-o-worms! 20 years ago I did a grid connect 
micro-hydro (450kW) and the permitting process took 2 years. I realize you're 
talking about a much smaller and unobtrusive install that could go in 
"unnoticed" but the potential to get busted by the utility would scare me, risk 
my license and put the customer at risk. I would not think that anyone on this 
list would endorse that approach. It sure is hard to walk away from a good 
untapped hydro potential though!!


-jeff o

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>SOLutions


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Lorentz Sub Pump

2010-04-22 Thread Jeff Oldham
I'm aware of 2 CU-200 failures recently and I agree that Grundfos CS is about 
as bad as it gets in our industry. A customer had 3 Grundfos failures in the 
last 5 years all within 3 months of warranty expiration (of course!!), I did 
not make those sales but when he learned of my inclusion of the warranty his 
4th pump came from me. WHEN, I was installing Grundfos I always included the 
extended warranty (takes it to 5 years) at my cost and stopped selling any of 
their controllers and used off-the-shelf stuff for a fraction of the cost 
instead. 

Happy Earth Day!!

-jeff o

>From the Solar, Wind and Hydro powered office of Jeff Oldham/Regenerative 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Lorentz Sub Pump

2010-04-21 Thread Jeff Oldham
Hi David,
It's been a VERY long time since we last spoke! The Lorentz is a very good pump 
and being positive displacement and powered DC direct (w/o inverter) it is 
going to be about 4x the efficiency of the Grundfos SQ AC pump. It is likely 
that the Grundfos will outlast it, but if it is there I would use it up 1st as 
it could go 20 years. The earlier issues w/Lorentz ended in 2005 when they 
redesigned their stator. I'm now moving my o-t-g pump of choice from the SQ 
Flex to the Lorentz. The reasons: 1) Grundfos is dropping "our normal" 
distributors and selling them only through AC pump dealers. 2) Grundfos costs 
more, 3) Lorentz now lasts just as long, 4) You can rebuild a Lorentz (even in 
the field), 5) the electronics are on the wall not submerged "down-the-hole" as 
w/Grundfos. 6) A HUGE range of pumps are now available from Lorentz.

Yes, it is 48Vdc nom. (the only thing I don't like, the Grundfos accepting up 
to 300Vdc can have application advantages.)

Take care,

-jeff o

>From the Solar, Wind and Hydro powered office of Jeff Oldham/Regenerative 
>SOLutions


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Using Metal Roof as conductor

2010-04-01 Thread Jeff Oldham
Besides saving copper you've also solved the squirrel chewing conductors 
problem!!  Anyone  have good recipes for char-broiled squirrel?  

>From the Solar, Wind and Hydro powered office of Jeff Oldham/Regenerative 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Outback Grid Problems

2010-03-31 Thread Jeff Oldham
If you only need to log V, A and Hz (for this need anyway) you would do fine 
with the Fluke 289. I have one and love it. It will download to a computer too 
with FlukeView Forms via the IR port and interface cable (comes with 
FlukeView). This is a VERY fast meter and will capture anything that I can 
imagine that matters in your case. You'll find it for about 1/4 of the cost of 
the 345.

-jeff o

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Re: [RE-wrenches] rebar v/s fiber

2010-03-12 Thread Jeff Oldham
Fiber is not really intended to be structural, but to help mitigate cracking. 
Rebar is very structural as we all know. But I agree w/Peter, with a pole fully 
into the ground (and not flanged mounted to the top of the pour) the rebar 
serves little purpose and I've never done it.

Good luck!

-jeff o

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Module Warranty

2010-03-12 Thread Jeff Oldham
You lose power you have a power warranty, it falls apart under the material 
warranty but still produces full power it is a material warranty. This is 
everyone I know of.

However, my beef is with the majority of module manu's that shred POWER 
warranties if they are installed within 1/4 mi. or so of saltwater. Ok, I'll 
pass on the material warranty but if there is no laminate failure (and why 
would salt air do that anyway??) and a cell tracer fry's don't screw me please!

-jeff o

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[RE-wrenches] EE. in L.A.

2010-03-11 Thread Jeff Oldham
A friend is working on a complex 250kW system in LADWP land and they are being 
difficult. He is looking for a good and reliable E.E. to assist with this 
project in the area.

Any leads would be appreciated!

thanks,

-jeff o

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Pump choice - Grundfos or Lorentz; distributers of L orentz

2010-03-08 Thread Jeff Oldham
It seems that both the Lorentz and Grundfos are about equal in reliability 
these days so as Windy says look at the complete system and take it from there. 
I like having all of the electronics on the wall with the Lorentz over down the 
hole w/the Grundfos, but then the Grundfos wins most times with me due to the 
flexible input voltage. 

A couple of things I've learned (some the hard way):
Always purchased the 3 year extended warranty for the Grundfos, it is a bargain 
and takes you out to 5 years.
Do not use any of the Grundfos controllers, the pricing for what you get is 
insane unless your customer insists on knowing how many watts the pump is 
pulling to feed his/her thirst for data. I put together my own simple and cheap 
controls for the various needs.
Look at the larger Grunfos pumps then you might need, the 3 smaller ones are 
very close in W/GPM and all priced the same. Often a larger series offers the 
ability to add more PV one day and dramatically increase flow w/o replacing the 
pump if the future needs call for it.  In the mean time the wattage to drive 
the larger pump at the same flow as a smaller one can be nearly the same.

-jeff o

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Re: [RE-wrenches] iphone solar apps

2010-03-08 Thread Jeff Oldham
Good timing w/the question Kirk! An article I just wrote for Home Power Mag. on 
just this topic has just been released. Look for Issue #136. The iPhone has 
amazing apps that make our lives much easier.

-jeff

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Torchdown, low pitched PV. How to weatherproof.

2010-02-26 Thread Jeff Oldham
This is actually an easy one. Clean the roofing well where you plan to 
penetrate and use standoffs that you like secured into the structure and then 
cut a "patch" out of a new piece of tourchdown at least 6" larger then your 
standoff base on all sides, cut a hole for your riser and melt the surface of 
the existing tourchdown in the area of patch contact , then press your standoff 
into the hot tar and shoot your lags through the melted tar for a good seal. 
Then "flow" the back side of the patch and lay it in fusing the roof and patch 
together, you should see a flow of tar on all edges, this edge detail is most 
critical and I'll often "weld" this seam again and look for a good flow and 
monolithic bond.  For small areas like this often a conventional plumbers torch 
will suffice.  I've also cut thin strips of the tourchdown and used them like 
welding rods for touch ups and assuring a good bond between the patch and the 
riser. Remember - the devil is in the details! Wear thick lea
 ther gloves that you'll throw away after the job or you'll burn you hands big 
time!

-jeff

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Need Outback VFX3648 NOW in L.A.

2010-02-22 Thread Jeff Oldham
Thanks for the offer to help, I've got it covered.

Regards,

-jeff

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[RE-wrenches] Need Outback VFX3648 NOW in L.A.

2010-02-19 Thread Jeff Oldham
HELP!

Can anyone sell me a new Outback VFX3648 in or very near L.A. by Monday night?

thanks,

-jeff o

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Re: [RE-wrenches] 3 Phase Grid Tie with Battery Backup

2010-02-15 Thread Jeff Oldham
You can also do it w/Outback up to 10.8kW

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Absolyte Battery Question

2010-02-11 Thread Jeff Oldham
I agree with all the feedback. I've been personally using these batteries for 
about 5 years now and up until 2 weeks ago when I doubled my PV array I was 
doing quite well with a C/40 - C-50 charge rate. At the same time I've had no 
issues w/rates as high as C/16. All of these numbers are for a 100hr rating. As 
Brian said if you can replace the daily discharge plus ~20% your array will do 
the job. I also think a 2nd FM60 is by far the better option and avoids 
potential could edge overdrives, however it likely means a new wire run from 
the array.

good luck,

-jeff o

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Re: [RE-wrenches] sales commissions

2010-02-10 Thread Jeff Oldham
I agree w/most here - there is no reason to reduce commission %. Do  you really 
want to discourage sales staff from these sales and expanded customer 
relations? Every time you try to get chicken sh#$ w/employees it backfires in 
ugly ways.

-jeff o

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Outback manuals in German or French

2010-01-29 Thread Jeff Oldham
I'm quite certain that you will not find the manuals you're looking for in 
Spanish for Outback. The one that you found is more like a "quick start guide" 
and does little to help anyone with programming and set-up. This is a real 
shortcoming of Outback as they have a very large Latin market, strangely only 
their charge controllers can switch their displays to Spanish and we would all 
prefer  that if we could only have one it would be the MATE.

They do have a very good bi-lingual tech, Sandra Herrera, direct: 360-618-4396 
she can walk end users through  most anything.

>From the Solar, Wind and Hydro powered office of Jeff Oldham/Regenerative 
>SOLutions


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Hotel exclusion

2009-12-14 Thread Jeff Oldham
My understanding is that you have it correct, I also believe that this effects 
condo's too.

-jeff o

>From the Solar, Wind and Hydro powered office of Jeff Oldham/Regenerative 
>SOLutions


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery Automatic Watering

2009-12-10 Thread Jeff Oldham
I've had pretty good luck with Pro-Fill from Jan Watercraft Prod. But will only 
use them on monster battery banks of over 40 caps or so and only after trying 
my best to talk the owner out of it. The most important factor with these is to 
NEVER go fully automatic, it is imperative that a human stands watch as they 
open the fill valve until they close it. A stuck float can flood battery tops 
and cause a short that can lead to a fire. Perhaps on an EV where the cells can 
be a mother to get to for a smaller application. My largest battery bank has 
288 cells to fill, it is just unrealistic for the owner to fill all of these 
manually and if they did I'm sure they would flood more battery tops then a 
filling system would ever do. Another pro side is that they go a long way 
towards minimizing battery contamination from careless filling habits.

"When you try to make something idiot proof they just come up with a better 
idiot"

-jeff o

>From the Solar, Wind and Hydro powered office of Jeff Oldham/Regenerative 
>SOLutions


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