Re: [RE-wrenches] REC Twin Peak 305/310/315/320

[MDElectricSolar via RE-wrenches]

Whew! Thank goodness! Love the REC products!Michael D NelsonMD Electric & Solar, Inc.707-684-0064 mobile707-884-1862 officewww.mdelectricsolar.comwww.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolarOn Jun 18, 2024, at 9:50 AM, George McClellan  wrote:







REC is doing just fine and is certainly not going out of business.  We have 430 W and a new 470 W available now, with a 610 W commercial product coming to the US in Q3/4. 

 

George McClellan | Senior Technical Sales Manager | REC Americas LLC

735 Tank Farm Rd Ste 130 | San Luis Obispo, CA |93401
Cell phone +1 805 704 3226 | Fax +1 805 357 6104 
www.recgroup.com
| george.mcclel...@recgroup.com
 
 

 


From: RE-wrenches 
On Behalf Of MDElectricSolar via RE-wrenches
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2024 9:39 AM
To: RE-wrenches 
Cc: MDElectricSolar 
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] REC Twin Peak 305/310/315/320


 
REC going out of business? 

 


Michael D Nelson


MD Electric & Solar, Inc.


707-684-0064 mobile


707-884-1862 office


www.mdelectricsolar.com


www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar

 






On Jun 18, 2024, at 8:58 AM, Glenn Burt via RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:




 


FYI, they distributed emails a month or so ago that they were going out of business...


 



-Glenn


Sent from my 'smart'phone, so please excuse typos and spelling errors.






 


-- Original message--


From: Christopher Warfel via RE-wrenches


Date: Tue, Jun 18, 2024 9:21 AM


To: Daryl DeJoy via RE-wrenches;


Cc: Christopher Warfel;


Subject:Re: [RE-wrenches] REC Twin Peak 305/310/315/320


 



Daryl, check SunElec in FL.  I got one from them. Chris

On 6/18/2024 7:11 AM, Daryl DeJoy via RE-wrenches wrote:



I have a client who dropped a tree on his array and I need to replace a single module. If anyone has one, used or otherwise, please contact me off list. I'd be happy to find one.


 


Thank you,


Daryl DeJoy


NABCEP Certified PVIP since 2006


Island Energy Storage


(207) 479-2252




Virus-free.www.avast.com
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-- 
  
 Christopher Warfel
          ENTECH Engineering Inc.
   PO Box 871, Block Island, RI 02807
              401-477-5773
https://entech-engineering.com/Home/default.php">





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Re: [RE-wrenches] REC Twin Peak 305/310/315/320

[MDElectricSolar via RE-wrenches]

REC going out of business?Michael D NelsonMD Electric & Solar, Inc.707-684-0064 mobile707-884-1862 officewww.mdelectricsolar.comwww.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolarOn Jun 18, 2024, at 8:58 AM, Glenn Burt via RE-wrenches  wrote:








  

FYI, they distributed emails a month or so ago that they were going out of business...-GlennSent from my 'smart'phone, so please excuse typos and spelling errors.-- Original message--From: Christopher Warfel via RE-wrenchesDate: Tue, Jun 18, 2024 9:21 AMTo: Daryl DeJoy via RE-wrenches;Cc: Christopher Warfel;Subject:Re: [RE-wrenches] REC Twin Peak 305/310/315/320
Daryl, check SunElec in FL.  I got one from them.
Chris

On 6/18/2024 7:11 AM, Daryl DeJoy via
  RE-wrenches wrote:


  
  I have a client who dropped a tree on his array and
I need to replace a single module. If anyone has one, used or
otherwise, please contact me off list. I'd be happy to find one.


Thank you,
Daryl DeJoy
NABCEP Certified PVIP since 2006
Island Energy Storage
(207) 479-2252
  
  
   
 Virus-free.www.avast.com

  

  
  
  

  
  
  
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-- 
  
  
    
  Christopher Warfel
          ENTECH Engineering Inc.
   PO Box 871, Block Island, RI 02807
              401-477-5773
  

   
  


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Water system with Grundfos SQFlex

[MDElectricSolar via RE-wrenches]

Poly or pvc is very common here in Northern California, and I have seen threaded schedule 80 PVC which takes longer to drop or pull but is a pretty nice solution.Michael D NelsonMD Electric & Solar, Inc.707-684-0064 mobile707-884-1862 officewww.mdelectricsolar.comwww.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolarOn May 26, 2024, at 11:58 AM, Bradley Bassett via RE-wrenches  wrote:Just went through all of Supplyhouse and did not find anything suitable. Off to do some looking down the well...On Sun, May 26, 2024 at 11:44 AM Dana Orzel via RE-wrenches  wrote:







Brad – Try supplyhouse.com
888.757.4774
 
_
Dana Orzel   
GREAT SOLAR WORKS! 

C – 208.721.7003  E –
d...@solarwork.com
W - www. greatsolarworks.com
www.solarwork.com
“Responsible Technologies for Responsible People since 1988!”
 



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Re: [RE-wrenches] PV/Charge Controller Troubleshoot Help

[MDElectricSolar via RE-wrenches]

It may be the fan. I had an FM 80 where the fan went bad that caused very 
limited solar production throughout the day.

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Apr 23, 2024, at 6:54 AM, jay via RE-wrenches 
>  wrote:
> 
> HI Jim,
> 
> The CC is sure suspect.
> You didn’t mention what the battery voltage is.
> Those CC have a hard PV watt input limit.
> 
> You can try and set it back to factory default and then reprogram, sometimes 
> that works.  
> 
> I don’t use the FM-60, but always the FM-80 because of the fan replacement.  
> the 80 takes 3 minutes, the 60 takes 2 hours.
> 
> jay
> 
>> On Apr 23, 2024, at 6:00 AM, Jim Gowdy via RE-wrenches 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I'm troubleshooting the solar aspect of a small offgrid 120v outback system 
>> and need some opinions.  The customer was complaining that the generator was 
>> running too much so I went out to their property and investigated.  The 
>> solar array consists of 16 total panels (4 strings of 4).  At the combiner 
>> box, I took the voltage and amperage reading of each string and found the 
>> following..BREAKER 1 (85VDC/8.87A) BREAKER 2 (84.5VDC/8.9A) BREAKER 3 
>> (.03VDC/0A) BREAKER 4(85VDC/8.89A).  Breaker 3 string was not producing and 
>> so I did a fix and then read (87.1VDC/8.43A).  After reviewing the online 
>> monitor since that fix from a few days prior I'm realizing that the first 
>> day after had 4.5KWH production, second day had 0.7KWH production, and 
>> yesterday had 0.3KWH production.sun has been out without clouds.  The 
>> 60A Outback charge controller shows there is PV voltage, but noticed it was 
>> in "silent mode" a good amount of time.  Charge controller is old, but all 
>> the other equipment was updated about a year and a half ago.  I was 
>> wondering if there is a way to diagnose if the charge controller is bad 
>> without just replacing it and what does it mean when it's in "silent mode".  
>> Another side note is that their generator threw an AGS fault code on the 
>> MATE3 controller and found that the generator has problems so I ended up 
>> turning from "auto" to "off"
>> --
>> Jim with Gowdy Electric
>> Cambria, Ca 93428
>> business  805 927 2630
>> cell  805 975 5279
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Re: [RE-wrenches] ESS in attached garage: Heat or smoke detectors

[MDElectricSolar via RE-wrenches]

Nest protect smoke/co’s inteconnect via wifiNest Protectstore.google.comMichael D NelsonMD Electric & Solar, Inc.707-684-0064 mobile707-884-1862 officewww.mdelectricsolar.comwww.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolarOn Nov 17, 2023, at 4:45 AM, Scot Arey via RE-wrenches  wrote:Wireless smoke alarms that interconnect to the home system. UL listed. Gamechanger for applications like this. From: RE-wrenches  On Behalf Of William Miller via RE-wrenchesSent: Friday, November 17, 2023 12:08 AMTo: RE-wrenches Cc: William Miller Subject: [RE-wrenches] ESS in attached garage: Heat or smoke detectors Friends: We are installing an off-grid power system in an attached garage with VRLA batteries (UnigyII).  I need to show compliance with California Residential Code section R328.7.  That code language is below: R328.7 Fire detection. Rooms and areas within dwelling units, basements and attached garages in which ESS are installed shall be protected by smoke alarms in accordance with Section R314. A heat detector, listed and interconnected to the smoke alarms, shall be installed in locations within dwelling units and attached garages where smoke alarms cannot be installed based on their listing. [SFMJ ESS installed in Group R-3 and townhomes shall comply with the following: 1. Rooms and areas within dwellings units, sleeping units, basements and attached garages in which ESS are installed shall be protected by smoke alarms in accordance with Section R314. 2. A listed heat alarm interconnected to the smoke alarms shall be installed in locations within dwelling units, sleeping units and attached garages where smoke alarms cannot be installed based on their listing.  R314 is the language about how where to install interconnected smoke detectors.   The home is already sheet-rocked and painted.  Does anyone have any idea how I can comply? Thanks in advance. William Miller Miller Solar17395 Oak Road, Atascadero, CA 93422805-438-5600www.millersolar.comCA Lic. 773985  ___List sponsored by Redwood AlliancePay optional member dues here: http://re-wrenches.orgList Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.orgChange listserver email address & settings:http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.orgThere are two list archives for searching. When one doesn't work, try the other:https://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.orgList rules & etiquette:http://www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htmCheck out or update participant bios:http://www.members.re-wrenches.org___
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Sunny Island AC-Coupled system integration with Fortress E-Vault

[MDElectricSolar via RE-wrenches]

I would tear all the sunny boys and sunny islands out and install two 15 kW Sol-Arks,  problem solved. DC coupled. I've done this several times now for existing clients (mostly connected to the grid) but it is so much cleaner and more compact and effective.Michael D NelsonMD Electric & Solar, Inc.707-684-0064 mobile707-884-1862 officewww.mdelectricsolar.comwww.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolarOn Oct 24, 2023, at 7:31 AM, William Miller via RE-wrenches  wrote:Friends: This situation is as yet unresolved.  It is complicated enough I created a web page to describe the scenario so I did not have to explain it over and over.  I submitted this to Fortress tech support.  They said they had likely not tested the Fortress compatibility with SI in an AC-Coupled system. While Fortress technicians and/or engineers ponder the situation I am brainstorming solutions.  One idea is to convert to a DC coupled system.  DC Charge controllers will have intrinsically better voltage control.  The charge controller most likely suitable is the Schneider 600 volt 100 amp unit.  I would need two of them.  It is compatible with the existing string wiring.  In researching it many questions came up about that product’s suitability.  There is an integration guide for a Schneider system and Fortress but this would be a mixed system of Schneider and SMA.  Would I be able to apply closed loop communication to both systems?  Could the charge controllers work in open loop?  Has anyone tried anything like this? I will keep you apprised. William Miller Miller Solar17395 Oak Road, Atascadero, CA 93422805-438-5600www.millersolar.comCA Lic. 773985  
___List sponsored by Redwood AlliancePay optional member dues here: http://re-wrenches.orgList Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.orgChange listserver email address & settings:http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.orgThere are two list archives for searching. When one doesn't work, try the other:https://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.orgList rules & etiquette:http://www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htmCheck out or update participant bios:http://www.members.re-wrenches.org___
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Pytes Batteries

[MDElectricSolar via RE-wrenches]

I have installed two Sol-Ark and Pytes off grid systems so far, have a couple 
more coming up. So far so good no issues they seem to be a well-built product.

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Oct 11, 2023, at 5:33 PM, Howie Michaelson via RE-wrenches 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with using Pytes LiFePO4 batteries? They 
> appear to be a solid option, but have little to no direct knowledge of them.
> TIA,
> Howie Michaelson
> Sun Catcher
> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Bonding Metal Roofs Part II

[MDElectricSolar via RE-wrenches]

How about extending your bonding wire out to the adjacent panels in roof areas with S5 clamps and attaching a ground lug to each instead of an L foot? I know it sounds a bit ridiculous, but an inexpensive and easy solution?Michael D NelsonMD Electric & Solar, Inc.707-684-0064 mobile707-884-1862 officewww.mdelectricsolar.comwww.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolarOn Jun 5, 2023, at 3:48 PM, AE Solar via RE-wrenches  wrote:Hey all,I had started a thread about bonding to metal roofs in 2018 but can't figure out how to respond via the archive. I know some things have changed since then, so I'm circling back and starting a new thread. In NY one of our inspection agencies (NYSERDA) requires bonding of metal roof panels below the array, as well as within a 3' perimeter of the array. S-5! in combination with Ironridge is now listed to bond the roof under the array (so long as you hit every pan with an attachment) but this doesn't solve the problem of trying to bond within the 3' perimeter. For installs where we are only 18" from the ridge, this means we are required to bond the adjacent roof as well.Whenever possible we install Illsco SGB-4 lugs under the ridge cap. But more and more we're finding roofs where the ridge cap feels inaccessible, tricky, or where we simply don't want to get into roof warranty issues associated with opening up a prior contractor's work.Wondering if anyone else is coming up against this and what some possible creative solutions might be. I don't want to walk away from potential projects but...As always, thanks for any thoughtsAdamAdam Katzman (he/him)Autonomous Energies | Owner/Operatorwww.AutonomousEnergies.com(518) 567-1468
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Re: [RE-wrenches] sol ark reliability question

[MDElectricSolar via RE-wrenches]

I’ve installed over 30 of them, not a single issue, tech support has been great!

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
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> On Sep 29, 2022, at 7:01 AM, jay via RE-wrenches 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I’ve got a question about how many folks are having issues with sol-ark 
> products?
> 
> the reason i ask is that i’ve got a friend, a good competent installer ( well 
> versed in OB, Schneider, magnum)  who’s had continuing nightmares with them.
> 
> he’s got 2 systems each on is a stacked pair of 12kw units, both offgrid.
> 
> each system was designed by sol-ark, meaning the design was approved by them 
> for the loads/solar etc.
> 
> He’s been through 7 MCU swaps. 
> He’s been through a field call required because the over the air firmware 
> update caused the inverters to go into 50hz and for some reason that isn’t 
> fixable via the web.
> He had an inverter that didn’t work correctly out of the box.  They charged 
> him $2500 deposit for a replacement.
> 
> Then they charged him $1500 to fix the inverter he sent back under warranty.  
> Thats right $1500 to fix a warranty which they agreed was a warranty issue.
> Hes not going to pay but this $1500 has been going on a while.  
> 
> The inverter they sent to replace the broken one had a older MCU firmware so 
> wouldn’t stack and it took tech support way to long to figure that out then 
> they had to send him a new MCU…...
> 
> And the list goes on.
> 
> But Im asking, is this poor guy just an anomaly or will anyone else chime in 
> about issues?,
> 
> Because at this point I have no desire to install one given his experiences
> 
> Jay
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Enphase

[MDElectricSolar via RE-wrenches]

After installing 4 or 5 of them I avoid them, too complicated, too many comm 
issues, too many hours on the phone with tech support, too many days wasted 
with no compensation.

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Sep 26, 2022, at 4:04 PM, Drake Chamberlin via RE-wrenches 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> Looking into the Enphase Ensemble system, I'm not sure that is a direction I 
> want to take. It seems that they are extremely complicated and require a 30 
> hour training course to commission.
> 
> Once installed, are they reliable? Do they require on going tweaks and 
> firmware upgrades?
> 
> Will the IQ8 micro inverters taper charge with phase shift? I am considering 
> the possibility of AC coupling some to a pair of Radians.
> 
> What is the most reliable and economically feasible way to provide backup 
> power today?
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Drake
> 
> Drake Chamberlin
> Media & Communication Action Project
> https://m-cap.org/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] wireless water tank level monitor

[MDElectricSolar via RE-wrenches]

Check these guys out:

https://www.scadalink.com/

I did a very similar project a few years ago with their product and it worked 
flawlessly, off grid as well.

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Jun 16, 2022, at 2:50 PM, jay via RE-wrenches 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Does anyone have recommendations  for a wireless water tank level monitor
> 
> Looking for multiple levels, not just empty.
> It is strictly for monitoring, not control
> 
> Could be cell service or internet ( which would be connected via wireless 
> radio) and its offgrid 
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> jay
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Large lithium chargers

[MDElectricSolar]

Maybe a DC output generator, the Wildcat Maverick charges a 48v battery bank 
directly and has it’s own controls, independent from the inverter.

https://wildcatpowergen.com/pages/maverick

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Dec 2, 2021, at 6:27 AM, Mac Lewis  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Jay, 
> 
> Is the plan to feed DC current (from generator and grid) into the batteries 
> and keep the inverters as power source for loads?
> 
>> On Thu, Dec 2, 2021 at 6:30 AM Darryl Thayer  wrote:
>> Jay I am confused as usual, what are the loads?  AC or DC?  How are you 
>> charging the battery from the generator or how is the battery powering the 
>> loads?   What is the desired current or the size of the generator?  sorry if 
>> this I dumb question
>> 
>>> On Wed, Dec 1, 2021 at 2:23 PM Jay  wrote:
>>> I got a call from a colleague that is designing a very large roughly 90-100 
>>> kWh lithium battery at 48v. 
>>> 
>>> He’s looking for large AC chargers to charge this bank. The reason is total 
>>> elimination of switch over delay from inverter to generator and back. 
>>> 
>>> One technique is to use inverters for this, but pretty pricey. 
>>> 
>>> Any recommendations as to equipment, brands etc?  
>>> 
>>> It would be a 208 3 phase AC side powered by a generator. 
>>> 
>>> Thx 
>>> Jay
>>> 
>>> Peltz power. 
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> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> 
> Mac Lewis
> 
> "Yo solo sé que no sé nada." -Sócrates
> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Grid-tie inverter with zero export or non-selling mode

[MDElectricSolar]

Check out Sol-Ark. They don’t need batteries to operate, but I’d consider 
throwing some storage in the mix. I’ve installed several zero-export systems 
using Sol-Ark. 

https://www.sol-ark.com/

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Apr 10, 2021, at 8:41 AM, Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Wrenches,
> 
> I do not see much grid-tie and never with a battery less inverter. I have a 
> client who wants me to explore zero export for them. I have looked at 
> http://www.elgrispower.com/
> 
> Is there such a thing in a medium size 6 KW Grid inverter built-in that can 
> zero export?  Or, Do I have to externally wire power meters ect?
> 
> Thank-you !
> 
>  
> Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar
> "we go where powerlines don't"
> http://members.sti.net/offgridsolar/
> e-mail  offgridso...@sti.net
> text 209 813 0060
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Re: [RE-wrenches] grid-tie solar behind a generator

[MDElectricSolar]

The Generac solution has worked well for me.

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Feb 25, 2021, at 5:40 AM, Nik Ponzio, Building Energy 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> We are installing 25kW of PV on a service with an existing backup generator 
> (Eaton 30KW) and auto transfer switch. Because of the remote location of the 
> generator and transfer switch, we can not easily connect on the grid-side of 
> the transfer switch as we usually do (without cutting a very long trench.) So 
> we're looking for a way to lock out the solar during generator use. And then, 
> ideally, reconnect the solar automatically when the grid is restored. 
> 
> Is there an off-the-shelf product available at this point to accomplish this? 
> 
> I see a thread on here from a couple years ago that recommended the Generac 
> SMM for this type of scenario. Any current thoughts on this approach?
> 
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> --
> Nik Ponzio 
> Building Energy
> 1570 South Brownell Road
> Williston, VT 05495
> direct: 802-318-7003
> npon...@buildingenergyus.com
> http://www.BuildingEnergyVT.com 
> 
>  
> "Building Solutions for a Sustainable Future"
> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Best LiPO Battery for Sol-Ark

[MDElectricSolar]

I’m using Simpliphi inside an outback battery box, very nice looking package.

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Jan 31, 2021, at 12:05 PM, Jerry Shafer  wrote:
> 
> 
> Blue planet has BMS integration with solar is a very stable product with the 
> best warranty
> Jerry
> 
>> On Sun, Jan 31, 2021, 11:25 AM Jason Szumlanski 
>>  wrote:
>> For those of you installing Sol-Arks, what LiPO battery do you recommend? I 
>> need something scalable to at least 60kWh and with closed-loop communication 
>> to the inverters. And cost is always an important consideration. Finally, 
>> something that looks pretty - competing with Tesla is tough with some of 
>> these ugly beasts.
>> 
>> Jason Szumlanski
>> Florida Solar Design Group 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Sol-Ark Gen Exercise Cycle

[MDElectricSolar]

Sol-Ark tech support has been fantastic to work with.
Mike

On Fri, Nov 13, 2020 at 9:09 AM Dustin Douglas  wrote:

> It is the same hardware as the dongle we provide with the unit and plugs
> directly into the Sol Ark Wi-fi port just like it would in a normal
> project, however the difference is that we customized the software to
> auto-update the inverter without the need for internet. This dongle is only
> compatible the Sol-Ark unit. We are currently sending them with the most up
> to date software for the units, but will be able to modify the software on
> the dongle so that it can be used for different versions of the Sol-Ark.
> The cost of the hardware is $100. We are wanting to add different options
> especially for those that are truly off grid.
>
> Thank you and have a blessed day,
>
> Dustin Douglas
>
> Sol Ark Engineering Support
>
> (972) 575-8875 x 108
> www.sol-ark.com
>
>
>  On Fri, 13 Nov 2020 10:05:37 -0600 *jay  >* wrote 
>
> HI Dustin,
>
> Can you elaborate on the custom dongle for the non internet people.  As
> its custom it sounds like its not a standard USB or SD or MSD?
>
> How much does it cost and can it be updated from a computer and then taken
> to the job site?
>
> Many if not most of my clients have no to limited internet and many that
> do,  don’t want internet connection for their equipment.
>
> thanks
>
> Jay
>
> Peltz Power
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Nov 13, 2020, at 8:57 AM, Dustin Douglas  wrote:
>
> The Time of Use feature can support this request. I do understand that
> programming can be somewhat confusing in completely covering what you are
> wanting the generator can do. However, if you are wanting the generator to
> turn on only when the batteries are low and getting through the night then
> we can set the Time of Use to only turn on with specific  hours and also
> charge up to specific SOC. We implemented this setting so that there is the
> ability to control how much fuel is used and not run the gen for long
> periods of time. The Time of Use settings are very customizable, if you
> would like to give our support team a call and we can help customize it to
> best fit your scenario.
>
> As for updating the system itself, we offer different avenues of doing so.
> The first is the Wi-fi dongle that is connected to the inverter and to the
> customers home network. We also offer different aftermarket versions for
> customers with specific needs or if they don't have internet altogether.
> There is a ethernet version for those that don't want the over the air
> (OTA) connection to there wireless network or possibly if there router
> itself is a little to far away from where the unit is located. Simply
> running a ethernet cable to this specific dongle will connect them for
> monitoring and also allow for updates. The final version is for those true
> off grid installs where they are not worried about monitoring but do need
> to get the system updated. We have developed a custom design dongle that
> once inserted into the unit will perform the update on the inverter
> locally. Plug it in and wait for the final part of the software to finish
> and now your system will have the current version of software. You can then
> remove it and adjust the settings for the new features that were added.
>
> Thank you and have a blessed day,
> Dustin Douglas
> Sol Ark Engineering Support
> (972) 575-8875 x 108
> www.sol-ark.com
>
>
>  On Fri, 13 Nov 2020 08:46:31 -0600 *Jay  >* wrote 
>
> I’m wondering how the firmware is updated?  USB or other?  I’ve looked on
> the website but I couldn’t find any instructions.
>
> Thx
> Jay
>
>
>
> On Nov 12, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Jeff Clearwater 
> wrote:
>
>  Thanks Dustin for keeping us up to date on Sol-Arks feature progress.
>
> While you are upgrading your firmware: :)
>
> So an essential feature for off-grid with a generator is to be able to
> program various SOC levels for generator start AND shuf-off after charge.
> 90% is way too high for many sunny climes and other configurations.  Often
> batteries need a boost in the wee morning hours - when they drop below the
> preferred recharge point but that's only perhaps a few hours before the sun
> comes up - So say you want to start a gen to charge a Lead-acid battery at
> 50% or an LFP batter at 20% SOC but you only want to bring it through to
> the next often or possibly sunny morning.  So you set it to run from 50% to
> 65% (or from 20%-40% for LFP) - knowing that the morning sun will take it
> the rest of the way.  90% would waste a ton of fuel in this scenario not
> too mention unwanted noise and wear and tear on the genny.  Depending on
> the clients use profile, the climate, and relative size of the array and
> battery and gen, these figures could vary anywhere from 20% to 100%.  So
> it's essential us off-grid installers have that flexibility.
>
> Also I know that your TOU settings might cover this (though not in all
> modes I believe) but another nice feature is to have 2 or 3 

Re: [RE-wrenches] Sol-Ark Gen Exercise Cycle

[MDElectricSolar]

William,
Haven’t had that come up yet. I don’t see why they can’t email the file to you 
and then you can upload it directly on site.

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Nov 13, 2020, at 7:54 AM, William Miller  wrote:
> 
> 
> Michael:
>  
> What if the site is not connected to the internet?
>  
> William
> Miller Solar
> 17395 Oak Road, Atascadero, CA 93422
> 805-438-5600
> www.millersolar.com
> CA Lic. 773985
>  
>  
> From: RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On 
> Behalf Of MDElectricSolar
> Sent: Friday, November 13, 2020 7:16 AM
> To: RE-wrenches
> Cc: Jeff Clearwater
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Sol-Ark Gen Exercise Cycle
>  
> Jay,
> You need to call Sol Ark tech support and they will push the update through 
> the Internet directly to your inverter, I had one done yesterday and it went 
> smoothly.
> 
> Michael D Nelson
> MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
> 707-684-0064 mobile
> 707-884-1862 office
> www.mdelectricsolar.com
> www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar
>  
> 
> 
> On Nov 13, 2020, at 7:03 AM, Jay  wrote:
> 
> 
> I’m wondering how the firmware is updated?  USB or other?  I’ve looked on the 
> website but I couldn’t find any instructions. 
>  
> Thx
> Jay
>  
>  
> 
> 
> On Nov 12, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Jeff Clearwater  
> wrote:
> 
>  Thanks Dustin for keeping us up to date on Sol-Arks feature progress.
> 
> While you are upgrading your firmware: :)
> 
> So an essential feature for off-grid with a generator is to be able to 
> program various SOC levels for generator start AND shuf-off after charge.  
> 90% is way too high for many sunny climes and other configurations.  Often 
> batteries need a boost in the wee morning hours - when they drop below the 
> preferred recharge point but that's only perhaps a few hours before the sun 
> comes up - So say you want to start a gen to charge a Lead-acid battery at 
> 50% or an LFP batter at 20% SOC but you only want to bring it through to the 
> next often or possibly sunny morning.  So you set it to run from 50% to 65% 
> (or from 20%-40% for LFP) - knowing that the morning sun will take it the 
> rest of the way.  90% would waste a ton of fuel in this scenario not too 
> mention unwanted noise and wear and tear on the genny.  Depending on the 
> clients use profile, the climate, and relative size of the array and battery 
> and gen, these figures could vary anywhere from 20% to 100%.  So it's 
> essential us off-grid installers have that flexibility.
> 
> Also I know that your TOU settings might cover this (though not in all modes 
> I believe) but another nice feature is to have 2 or 3 time periods with 
> different start and stop settings (Sunny Island does this nicely).  So if the 
> minimum SOC is reached in the evening you might as well bring it up to a 
> higher SOC for gen shut down as it needs to get through the entire night 
> whereas if that minimum SOC start trigger is met after 3 AM  it needs to only 
> bring it to a lower SOC as described above.
> 
> I'm loving the Sol-Ark product so far but it is obvious the software is a 
> work in progress - the architecture and thought behind it is an excellent 
> foundation - thanks for your work and openness for input to make it even 
> better.
> 
> Best,
> 
> Jeff
> 
> ~~~
> Jeff Clearwater
> Village Power Design
> linkedin 
> www.villagepowerdesign.com
> cell - 413-559-9763
> ~~~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dustin Douglas
> November 12, 2020 at 11:46 AM
> Hi All,
>  
> First and foremost thank you for sharing your experiences the the Sol-Ark 
> system. We try very hard to have different capabilities and add new features 
> that make it flexible for the customer. The two-wire start is a feature 
> however that we want to be seamless. In the instance where the customer is 
> seeing the system shutdown once the generator shuts off has been addressed 
> and fixed with a software update. With this update we are able to handle 
> larger generators that tend to drift from 60hz. Please give our support team 
> a call so that we can update the customer accordingly. We are also looking at 
> adding more features including the ability exercise the generator in the near 
> feature. 
>  
> Thank you and have a blessed day,
> Dustin Douglas
> Sol Ark Engineering Support
> (972) 575-8875 x 108
> www.sol-ark.com
>  
>  
>  On Thu, 12 Nov 2020 08:08:51 -0600 Jay  wrote 
>  
>  
>  
> ___
> List sponsored by Redwood Allian

Re: [RE-wrenches] Sol-Ark Gen Exercise Cycle

[MDElectricSolar]

Jay,
You need to call Sol Ark tech support and they will push the update through the 
Internet directly to your inverter, I had one done yesterday and it went 
smoothly.

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Nov 13, 2020, at 7:03 AM, Jay  wrote:
> 
> 
> I’m wondering how the firmware is updated?  USB or other?  I’ve looked on the 
> website but I couldn’t find any instructions. 
> 
> Thx
> Jay
> 
> 
> 
>>> On Nov 12, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Jeff Clearwater  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>  Thanks Dustin for keeping us up to date on Sol-Arks feature progress.
>> 
>> While you are upgrading your firmware: :)
>> 
>> So an essential feature for off-grid with a generator is to be able to 
>> program various SOC levels for generator start AND shuf-off after charge.  
>> 90% is way too high for many sunny climes and other configurations.  Often 
>> batteries need a boost in the wee morning hours - when they drop below the 
>> preferred recharge point but that's only perhaps a few hours before the sun 
>> comes up - So say you want to start a gen to charge a Lead-acid battery at 
>> 50% or an LFP batter at 20% SOC but you only want to bring it through to the 
>> next often or possibly sunny morning.  So you set it to run from 50% to 65% 
>> (or from 20%-40% for LFP) - knowing that the morning sun will take it the 
>> rest of the way.  90% would waste a ton of fuel in this scenario not too 
>> mention unwanted noise and wear and tear on the genny.  Depending on the 
>> clients use profile, the climate, and relative size of the array and battery 
>> and gen, these figures could vary anywhere from 20% to 100%.  So it's 
>> essential us off-grid installers have that flexibility.
>> 
>> Also I know that your TOU settings might cover this (though not in all modes 
>> I believe) but another nice feature is to have 2 or 3 time periods with 
>> different start and stop settings (Sunny Island does this nicely).  So if 
>> the minimum SOC is reached in the evening you might as well bring it up to a 
>> higher SOC for gen shut down as it needs to get through the entire night 
>> whereas if that minimum SOC start trigger is met after 3 AM  it needs to 
>> only bring it to a lower SOC as described above.
>> 
>> I'm loving the Sol-Ark product so far but it is obvious the software is a 
>> work in progress - the architecture and thought behind it is an excellent 
>> foundation - thanks for your work and openness for input to make it even 
>> better.
>> 
>> Best,
>> 
>> Jeff
>> 
>> ~~~
>> Jeff Clearwater
>> Village Power Design
>> linkedin 
>> www.villagepowerdesign.com
>> cell - 413-559-9763
>> ~~~
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> Dustin Douglas November 12, 2020 at 11:46 AM
>>> Hi All,
>>> 
>>> First and foremost thank you for sharing your experiences the the Sol-Ark 
>>> system. We try very hard to have different capabilities and add new 
>>> features that make it flexible for the customer. The two-wire start is a 
>>> feature however that we want to be seamless. In the instance where the 
>>> customer is seeing the system shutdown once the generator shuts off has 
>>> been addressed and fixed with a software update. With this update we are 
>>> able to handle larger generators that tend to drift from 60hz. Please give 
>>> our support team a call so that we can update the customer accordingly. We 
>>> are also looking at adding more features including the ability exercise the 
>>> generator in the near feature. 
>>> 
>>> Thank you and have a blessed day,
>>> Dustin Douglas
>>> Sol Ark Engineering Support
>>> (972) 575-8875 x 108
>>> www.sol-ark.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>>  On Thu, 12 Nov 2020 08:08:51 -0600 Jay  wrote 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> List sponsored by Redwood Alliance
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>>> 
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>>> Jay November 12, 2020 at 9:08 AM
>>> Hi Bill
>>> 
>>> In the past I’ve had similar issues with generators/inverters. Usually a 
>>> relay on the output power wires that opens( disconnects) when the stop 
>>> signal is sent works as the frequency doesn’t slowly go down, it drops to 0 
>>> instantly. 
>>> I don’t know if it will fix your issue. 
>>> 
>>> Seems like solark needs to greatly improve their firmware. 
>>> 
>>> Jay
>>> 
>>> Peltz power. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 

Re: [RE-wrenches] Sol-Ark Gen Exercise Cycle

[MDElectricSolar]

We’ve had the same issue.

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Nov 11, 2020, at 11:53 PM, Bill Hennessy  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi folks--We've also been disappointed with the Sol-Ark two-wire generator 
> start. The unit starts at the charge set point, but the inverter will shut 
> down for about a minute every time the generator stops running. After the 
> minute wait, the inverter restarts and everything is fine. But it is 
> aggravating for the homeowners to be left wondering in the dark.
> 
> Sol-Ark says that when the generator shuts off, the frequency drops out of 
> the Sol-Ark range and causes the inverter shut down. 
> They suggested we find a way to increase the generator speed to avoid the 
> frequency drop at shutdown. This seems like a lame suggestion, since the 
> generator has no idea of when the batteries will be satisfied--it only 
> responds to the on/off signal from the Sol-Ark. I would think that the unit 
> could be programmed to ignore the frequency drop when it sends the shut off 
> signal to the generator. The system has an an Ecogen 15kW.
> 
> Not having an exercise function is also a miss. As mentioned below, the time 
> of use can be used, but one has to go out and play with the programming to 
> check the generator.
> 
> regards, bill
> 
> Bill Hennessy
> Berks Solar, LLC
> 371 Centennial Rd
> Mertztown, PA 19539
> 
> o 610 682 4300
> c 484 560 4666
> NABCEP certified installer
> PA contractor #44411
> www.berkssolar.com
> 
> 
> On Wednesday, November 11, 2020, 8:20:57 PM EST, Chris Sparadeo 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion, Jay. 
> 
> Yes, the Sol-Ark has a very basic and limited AGS for 2 wire compatible gen 
> sets. Gen start can be programmed with voltage or SOC, however gen stop is 
> not a function that can not be readily programmed. Instead, the Sol-Ark is 
> programmed to charge the battery bank to 90% of  the rated Ah capacity of the 
> battery bank before turning off the generator. You can ultimately adjust this 
> gen stop parameter to be based on a specific SOC or voltage, but I believe 
> that doing so requires a call into tech support. The tech I spoke with 
> updated a setting (having to do with a TOU parameter I believe) that was not 
> accessible via the system interface. AGS  from Schnieder, Outback and even 
> Magnum are less clunky, but I am hoping that Sol-Ark will eventually come out 
> with new programming to remediate these minor but nevertheless, important 
> issues
> 
> -Chris
> 
> On Wed, Nov 11, 2020 at 3:58 PM Jay  wrote:
> Hi Chris
> 
> I would install a timer. There are many dry contact dc or ac powered with a 
> high degree of programmability. 
> 
> A question about the normal function of the AGS. I’ve talked to a few people 
> that have mentioned that the ags has its own fuzzy logic, with limited 
> programming. And they have had issues with it not turning on or not turning 
> off 
> 
> What do you say?
> 
> Jay
> 
>>> On Nov 11, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Glenn Burt  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> I believe the Atkinson GSCM could be used to do this.
>> 
>> -Glenn
>> Sent from my 'smart'phone, so please excuse typos and spelling errors.
>> 
>> -- Original message--
>> From: Chris Sparadeo
>> Date: Wed, Nov 11, 2020 11:16 AM
>> To: RE-wrenches;
>> Cc:
>> Subject:[RE-wrenches] Sol-Ark Gen Exercise Cycle
>> 
>> Hi all,
>> 
>> According to Sol-Ark tech support, they do not currently have a programmable 
>> exercise cycle for
>> its two-wire start function. When paired with a generator like a Generac 
>> Ecogen (exercise cycle is automatically disabled when configured with two 
>> wire start) this means that the only way to effectively run an exercise 
>> cycle on your generator would be to do it manually. I am wondering if anyone 
>> has run into this issue and if there are work arounds? Kind of a bummer and 
>> my first and only negative experience with Sol-Ark thus far. 
>> 
>> Kindly,
>> 
>> Chris Sparadeo 
>> -- 
>> Chris Sparadeo
>> 
>> 
>> C_802-369-4458
>> H_802-728-3059
>> ___
>> List sponsored by Redwood Alliance
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Re: [RE-wrenches] trickle charger for 4 12V batteries

[MDElectricSolar]

https://www.iotaengineering.com/dls5413.htm

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Oct 19, 2019, at 5:39 AM, John Blittersdorf  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> The least expensive way and easiest way (not having to reconnect string) 
> would be 4 inexpensive battery maintainers.  Unless they 
> Already have something like an Iota 48volt battery charger. 
> 
> John Blittersdorf
> 
>> On Mon, Oct 14, 2019 at 3:02 PM Dave Tedeyan  wrote:
>> Hi All,
>> 
>> If someone were to bring their set of 4 sealed LA batteries from an off grid 
>> cabin into their house for the winter, I am recommending that they get a 
>> trickle charger to keep them topped off for the ~6 months that they will not 
>> be in use. 
>> 
>> Does anyone have recommendations for a product? And is it best to get 4 
>> separate 12V chargers, one 48V charger, or a single 12V charger and put them 
>> all in parallel? Or am I just overthinking this?
>> 
>> Cheers, 
>> Dave
>> 
>> Dave Tedeyan, PE
>> Senior Engineer | Taitem Engineering, PC
>> 
>> 110 South Albany Street | Ithaca, NY 14850
>> o. 607.277.1118 x121  f. 607.277.2119
>> www.taitem.com
>> 
>> Solar • Sustainability • Energy • Design
>> B-Corporation Best for the World 2018 Honoree
>> ___
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Re: [RE-wrenches] DC-DC converter for SQFlex

[MDElectricSolar]

Is there an inverter, you could power it with 120 or 240V AC?

On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 11:17 AM Gary Higbee 
wrote:

> Hi Wrenches,
>
> I’m assisting a customer and well person in replacing a failed Lorentz
> ETApump (after 15 years of intermittent use). We’re looking for a quality
> DC-DC converter to power a not-yet- ordered Grundfos SQFlex 6 SQF-3 from a
> 24 V Surrette battery bank (wish it was 48!). The pump draws a max of 8.4A
> and the curves say we’ll need about 600 watts so I figure we’d want at
> least 70 volts out. Ideal would be a higher DC output, say 200V (save a
> couple hundred feet of larger copper, greater efficiency) and at least 3A
> (see questions).
>
> The primary power source will be 240V AC but my customer wants a fallback
> for battery operation. We plan to use the Grundfos IO 101 SQFlex switch
> box, which will switch to DC if the AC fails. Also the CU 200 SQFlex
> control unit, so we can accommodate the existing float switch up the hill,
> etc.
>
> The Grundfos tech person I spoke with today said the DC system should be
> able to supply 8.4A, regardless of the DC voltage.The pump curve says we
> need 600W for maximum performance at the lift we’ve got. It seems to me
> that if we’ve got 200V and need 600W we’d be drawing 3A. Yet if the
> Grundfos factory line is there should be 8.4A available that’s 1680W. The
> tech guy said he didn’t have specific information why we’d need 8.4A
> regardless of pump input voltage.
>
> The Grundfos Product Guide says:
>
> *Max. ratings are as follows:*
> *• Maximum power input (P1) of 1400 W*
> *• maximum current of 8.4 A*
> *• maximum speed of 3600 rpm *(think I read somewhere it’s 3000 rpm for
> this helical rotor model)
>
> *The pump delivers its maximum performance when **one of the above
> parameters is reached.*
>
> Two questions:
>
> 1) Do any of you have experience running the SQFlex on DC, and what to
> make of the 8.4A at any input voltage factory recommendation? Maybe basic
> amps/volts/power calculations aren’t applicable given the pump electronics?
>
> 2) Are you aware of any DC-DC converters that will get us from a nominal
> 24V battery bank to 200V, or somewhere between 70 and 200V, with an
> appropriate current limiting amp rating to get us at least 600W (depending
> on thoughts regarding the above question)?
>
>
> Thank you,
>
> Gary
>
> Gary Higbee
> Windstream Solar
> Oregon License 17LRT
> Renewable Energy Consulting
> g...@windstreamsolar.com
> 541-954-3881
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-- 
Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar Inc.
Office: 707-884-1862
Cell: 707-684-0064
www.mdelectricsolar.com
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Enphase question

[MDElectricSolar]

I don’t believe so, although you will need to use the new trunk cable system 
and new envoy.

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Jul 6, 2018, at 6:05 PM, RM You  wrote:
> 
> I have a legacy system with 12 Sanyo HIT 215N panels and Enphase 210’s. 
> Client wants to re-do roof and add two more panels when the system is 
> re-installed. Are there any concerns with mixing Enphase inverters on a 
> single string, e.g. adding a couple of 265w panels and appropriate inverters? 
> We don’t do a lot of grid tie and this hasn’t come up before.
> 
> Ron
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Microinverter Fault Trips Branch Circuit Breaker

[MDElectricSolar]

I’ve had this happen many times with Enphase micro inverters. I’ve actually had 
them burn the back of a PV module. The cause was an internal short circuit 
which tripped the strings circuit breaker, when I cycled the breaker and turned 
it back on.. instant trip. I would put someone up on the roof to visually 
and audibly confirm which micro inverter was causing the short, it was 
typically very obvious to the naked eye.

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Jul 3, 2018, at 12:45 PM, Jason Szumlanski 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> This is not a knock on microinverters, but information to potentially help 
> save the next guy a bunch of time... This is not specific to any brand, but 
> for purposes of explaining I will mention it was an Enphase IQ6+ system.
> 
> One of the great advantages of microinverters, even over optimizers, in my 
> mind is how when a single unit fails the rest of the string just keeps on 
> running. I recently ran into a tripping breaker. My first diagnostic step was 
> to swap the string with another string's breaker to eliminate the breaker 
> itself as a source of the problem. That wasn't it. It just popped the other 
> breaker. So I probably had a dreaded wiring fault. Knowing that pulling wires 
> out of this particular conduit would be a nightmare, I hoped to disconnect 
> the string at the j-box on the roof and crossed my fingers that the problem 
> wasn't in the pipe. I was delighted to find out that there was no fault in 
> the home run wiring, so I suspected the trunk cable. To check that I tested 
> continuity line to line and line to ground. Nothing. Next stop was the string 
> terminator just to double check because I have seen intermittent faults from 
> a poorly installed terminator. It looked great. I checked the waterproof caps 
> on a couple of unused drops. Looked good. I carefully inspected for any cuts 
> and scuffs in the cable. No luck. But I was convinced it was a trunk cable 
> issue. I was just about to cut the trunk cable in half to isolate the issue 
> to one half of the trunk cable when I decided to just try turning on the 
> breaker once more.
> 
> Pop, sizzle, boom, smoke. Found the problem. It was a microinverter with an 
> internal fault. Fortunately, it tripped the breaker and damage was isolated 
> to that unit, which was swapped out and everything was fine. Problem solved.
> 
> It got me thinking about my approach to diagnosing this issue. I think next 
> time I will start with disconnecting the string in the junction box just like 
> I did this time, then test and reconnect it. My next step will be to 
> disconnect every micro in the string from the trunk cable and test again by 
> turning on the breaker. Then if it's not the trunk cable or home run wiring I 
> can narrow down the offending microinverter by plugging in subsets of the 
> string. I just got lucky because it finally failed catastrophically when I 
> had the modules off. The owner had reset the breaker several times before and 
> the system ran for hours or days without issue. There must have been an 
> intermittent AC fault within the bad micro that finally just manifest itself 
> in a more demonstrative way.
> 
> So a single point of failure can result in taking down a whole string. That's 
> the first time I've had that happen other than a straight-up wiring fault.
> 
> 
> Jason Szumlanski
> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Enphase tech support

[MDElectricSolar]

707-763-4784

On Wed, Jun 13, 2018 at 10:29 AM Roy Butler 
wrote:

> Does anyone have contact information for Enphase Tech Support?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> --
> Roy Butler
> Four Winds Renewable Energy, LLC
> 8902 Route 46, Arkport, NY 14807
> 607-324-9747  www.four-winds-energy.com
>
> Check out the Annual Small Wind Conference
> A Gathering of Installers, Manufacturers, Dealers, & Distributors
> www.smallwindconference.com
>
> Although no trees were killed in the sending of this message,
> a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
>
>
>
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MD Electric & Solar Inc.
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Re: [RE-wrenches] rain guard

[MDElectricSolar]

We always try and move the lower edge of the array up approx 12" for this
exact reason, it's getting harder and harder with the 3' fire clearance
rule.

Mike

On Mon, Apr 30, 2018 at 5:32 AM Nik Ponzio, Building Energy <
npon...@buildingenergyus.com> wrote:

> We have a roofmount PV array that is very close to the run gutter. The
> customer is concerned that the runoff during heavy rain will overshoot the
> gutter. So I'm looking for a product that will mount at the lower edge of
> the array and slow down the rain water. I looked that Alpine SnowGuards but
> they all have a small gap between top of solar module and bottom of the
> snow rail.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
> --
> Nik Ponzio
> Building Energy
> 1570 South Brownell Road
> Williston, VT 05495
> 802-859-3384 ext.115
> http://www.BuildingEnergyVT.com
>
>
>
>
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Looking for insulated #6 bare standoff

[MDElectricSolar]

Or just thhn #6 ?

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Apr 18, 2018, at 5:24 PM, Benn Kilburn  wrote:
> 
> Dana, 
> Why does it have to be bare copper? Can you not use a green insulated #6?
> 
> Benn Kilburn
> SkyFire Energy
> 780-906-7807
> 
>> On Apr 18, 2018, at 10:59 AM, Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Why is it #6? Usually the solar panels wire size determine Array Teks size
>> for this wiring. What do they say please?  --Dave
>> 
>>> How about an insulated loop clamp like this one:
>>> https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0216763
>>> 
>>> You can get them in stainless and they have the rubber grommet so it won't
>>> touch the rack.
>>> 
 On Wed, Apr 18, 2018 at 12:00 PM, Dana  wrote:
 
 Good Morning Wrenches,
 
 
 
 I am required to keep the bare #6 copper from touching the aluminum
 frame
 work of a Array Technologies tracker where it is not mechanically
 connected
 by a pass-through ground clamp on a tracking array [dissimilar metals]
 and
 am looking for a lead on an insulated standoff or strap to hold the #6
 bare
 copper as it passes from panel to panel and rail to rail. The plans
 examiner would accept pass through clamps & this is a worst case-spendy
 solution to this.
 
 
 
 I have searched the inquired at local electrical warehouse  the
 internet and to no avail under “insulated strap” & “insulated
 cable
 standoff”.
 
 
 
 Has anyone else encountered his & what did you use? Where did you source
 this strap?
 
 
 
 I remember seeing something like this in the fuzzy past & cannot recall
 where I saw it or what it was for.
 
 
 
 Thanks for any suggestions.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Dana Orzel  Great Solar Works, Inc.
 
 *C - 208.721.7003   d...@solarwork.com
 *
 
 Idaho Contractor - # 028765 Idaho PV # 028374
 
 NABCEP # 051112-136   www.solarwork.biz
 
 *"Responsible Technologies for Responsible People since 1988"  *
 
 *P* Please consider the environment before printing this email.
 
 
 
 
 
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> *Will White*
>>> Curriculum Developer
>>> 
>>> [image: Inline image 3]
>>> 
>>> e: w...@solarenergy.org
>>> w: www.solarenergy.org
>>> p: 802-272-3092
>>> 
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>>> # 093006-34
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>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar
>> "we go where powerlines don't"
>> http://members.sti.net/offgridsolar/
>> e-mail  offgridso...@sti.net
>> text 209 813 0060
>> 
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Re: [RE-wrenches] TJI rafters

[MDElectricSolar]

We have done different things, but simple solution is to add blocking and lag 
into that instead and avoid the TJI's.

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Mar 2, 2018, at 6:18 PM, frenergy  wrote:
> 
> Jerry,
> 
> Metal roof? comp? tile?
> 
> Bill
> 
>> On 3/2/2018 1:23 PM, Jerry Caldwell wrote:
>> Dear Wrenches,
>> 
>> I have a customer with a low slope roof supported by TJI beams. Does anyone 
>> have experience permitting and installing on TJIs? I'm curious if 
>> jurisdictions are requiring Structural Engineer stamps.
>> 
>> Since the top chord of the beams is only 1 3/8" thick should we be using 
>> shorter lag bolts for these installations? It also seems that it would be 
>> undesirable to penetrate into the web of the beam.
>> 
>> Any advice would be appreciated here.
>> 
>> Thank you,
>> 
>> Jerry Caldwell
>> 
>> 
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> 
> -- 
> Feather River Solar Electric
> Bill Battagin, Owner
> 4291 Nelson St.
> Taylorsville, CA 95983
> 530.284.7849
> CA Lic 874049
> www.frenergy.net
> 
>   Virus-free. www.avast.com
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Wire management with S5! Railless System

[MDElectricSolar]

I would use rails with the s-5, gives you something to attach wires to.

Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar, Inc.
707-684-0064 mobile
707-884-1862 office
www.mdelectricsolar.com
www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar


> On Jan 10, 2018, at 9:18 PM, Ray  wrote:
> 
> Hi All;
> 
> I was wondering what folks were doing these days for wire management on 
> Standing seam roofs with the S5! clamps and no rails. I'm at a loss (once 
> again) for how to secure the home runs without a rail.  I have some of those 
> module edge clips, but those only hold one wire, and I've had them slip off 
> (wire dangling visible from ground.)
> Also most suppliers seem to only carry the universal S5! clamps, but I have 
> found those to really bend up the metal on certain types of standing seam 
> roofs.  I wanted to order the recommended model for the particular roof.  AEE 
> quit carrying S5 altogether.
> Give me your Standing seam wisdom.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ray Walters
> Remote Solar
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Interstate battery charging info

[MDElectricSolar .]

Here is a document I received from Interstate about charging parameters.

On Mon, Dec 18, 2017 at 6:17 PM, Jay  wrote:

> Hi all
>
> I can’t seem to find much information at all on the interstate web site.
>
> I’m trying to find out charging information and maybe cycle curves for
> someone with interstate L-16 HCL.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thx
> Jay
>
>
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-- 
Michael D Nelson
MD Electric & Solar Inc.
Office: 707-884-1862
Cell: 707-684-0064
www.mdelectricsolar.com
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Wire nuts

[MDElectricSolar .]

Never had an issue, they crimp fine. But just like with any electrical
work, you must pay attention all day long!
Mike

On Tue, Sep 6, 2016 at 4:21 PM, Benn Kilburn  wrote:

> August, et al,
> Do you have any issues with crimping the fine wires that are typically on
> a microinverter cable, to a coarse stranded or solid wire?
> Or, do you know if there is an issue with using these crimps with fine
> stranded wire?
>
> Benn Kilburn
> SkyFire Energy Inc.
> 780-906-7807
>
> On Sep 6, 2016, at 3:55 PM, August Goers  wrote:
>
> We’re using ideal/Buchanan splice cap crimp connectors as I’ve posted here
> a couple of times:
>
>
>
> http://www.idealind.com/ideal-electrical/us/en/products/
> wire-termination/60-crimp-connectors/copper-splice-cap-
> crimp-connectors.aspx
>
>
>
> We really like these in nearly every way. I just spoke with Ideal on the
> phone to verify their listing for damp/wet locations. They gave me a verbal
> okay to use them in outdoor boxes, but don’t have any documentation
> providing a specific listing for this purpose. This puts us in a bind, but
> they still seem like the least of all evils.
>
>
>
> It looks from Jerry’s picture that the box got wet inside. You can see
> signs of dirty water intrusion towards the back of the box and the wires
> look they were once muddy as well. The outdoor rated wire nuts that are
> pre-packed with grease likely would have been okay in a very wet box
> provided they were assembled properly. We are putting weep holes in our
> boxes and conduit bodies because we’ve had multiple issues with water
> flooding boxes and conduits. Dirty conductive water and 600 VDC don’t mix
> well.
>
>
>
> August
>
>
>
> *From:* RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] *On
> Behalf Of *Jason Szumlanski
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 06, 2016 1:25 PM
> *To:* RE-wrenches
> *Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] Wire nuts
>
>
>
> I was just called last week to a three phase Enphase system installed by
> others with three of eight strings that were exhibiting erratic voltages on
> random phases. First I checked the combiner panels and everything checked
> out. I went to the roof and discovered that wet rated wire nuts were used
> (red). The first of eight j-boxes that I opened, I just pushed a wire a
> little and heard crackling sounds. I didn't have to go any further... bad
> connections. Problem identified.
>
>
>
> So the question remains... what ARE you using? There is a recent thread
> about fine stranded wire and Polaris taps not being acceptable. There are
> also people using Alumiconn and Polaris black connectors, which are not
> rated for wet/damp locations. This all ties in together in terms of best
> practices in roof junction/transition boxes.
>
>
>
>
>
> ​Jason Szumlanski​
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2016 at 3:19 PM, August Goers  wrote:
>
> Are those wire nuts listed for wet locations? Most ideal outdoor
> (damp/wet) rated wire nuts are blue or grey in my experience.
>
>
>
> August
>
> Luminalt
>
>
>
> *From:* RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] *On
> Behalf Of *Benn Kilburn
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 06, 2016 12:02 PM
> *To:* RE-wrenches
> *Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] Wire nuts
>
>
>
> The reason i'm asking is that the only time i have seen a short,
> first-hand, in a wire nut, was because it appeared that one wire was pushed
> down rather than binding with the other wire, which would have happened if
> the wires were not held tightly when the nut was twisted on.  Also, it was
> a stranded wire (that was pushed down) being connected to a solid wire,
> which is acceptable, but care must be taken to do it properly.
>
> Also, on all the Ideal wire nut packages I have, the instructions say to
> twist the wire nut on until there are two visible twists in the wire.  I
> suppose this is to ensure the twist/connection is sufficient to make a
> solid connection and perhaps to keep the wires together if the wire nut is
> removed.
>
> The ones in this photo do not look like they were installed as per the
> instructions, which brings how much attention was put in to installing them
> in the first place.
>
> I've always questioned the why wire nuts are cautioned against, especially
> considering how many wire nuts are used in residential and commercial
> jobs.  I'm sure if there was a legit issue with them then insurance
> companies would insist they not be used, such as aluminum wiring?
>
>
> *Benn Kilburn *
>
> CSA Certified Solar Photovoltaic Systems Electrician, SkyFire Energy Inc
>
> 14515 – 121A Ave NW | Edmonton, AB | T5L 2T2
>
> P: 780-474-8992 | F: 888-405-5843 | www.skyfireenergy.com
>
> [image: email]  [image: facebook]
>  [image: twitter]
>  [image: linkedin]
> 
>

Re: [RE-wrenches] Wire nuts

[MDElectricSolar .]

Again, I am using Buchannon copper crimp sleeves, with a Buchannon crimper,
never seen one NOT work or go BAD. This is the best connection I have seen.
I've never had an inspector open up my rooftop j-box/combiner box and ask
about the listing of my connectors, but as a solar business owner who's
reputation rests on good installation practice, this is the best
connection, and it lasts long term, especially when you fill the crimp cap
with anti-oxidant compound, before you install the cap.
Mike

On Tue, Sep 6, 2016 at 1:25 PM, Jason Szumlanski <
ja...@floridasolardesigngroup.com> wrote:

> I was just called last week to a three phase Enphase system installed by
> others with three of eight strings that were exhibiting erratic voltages on
> random phases. First I checked the combiner panels and everything checked
> out. I went to the roof and discovered that wet rated wire nuts were used
> (red). The first of eight j-boxes that I opened, I just pushed a wire a
> little and heard crackling sounds. I didn't have to go any further... bad
> connections. Problem identified.
>
> So the question remains... what ARE you using? There is a recent thread
> about fine stranded wire and Polaris taps not being acceptable. There are
> also people using Alumiconn and Polaris black connectors, which are not
> rated for wet/damp locations. This all ties in together in terms of best
> practices in roof junction/transition boxes.
>
>
> ​Jason Szumlanski​
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2016 at 3:19 PM, August Goers  wrote:
>
>> Are those wire nuts listed for wet locations? Most ideal outdoor
>> (damp/wet) rated wire nuts are blue or grey in my experience.
>>
>>
>>
>> August
>>
>> Luminalt
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] *On
>> Behalf Of *Benn Kilburn
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 06, 2016 12:02 PM
>> *To:* RE-wrenches
>> *Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] Wire nuts
>>
>>
>>
>> The reason i'm asking is that the only time i have seen a short,
>> first-hand, in a wire nut, was because it appeared that one wire was pushed
>> down rather than binding with the other wire, which would have happened if
>> the wires were not held tightly when the nut was twisted on.  Also, it was
>> a stranded wire (that was pushed down) being connected to a solid wire,
>> which is acceptable, but care must be taken to do it properly.
>>
>> Also, on all the Ideal wire nut packages I have, the instructions say to
>> twist the wire nut on until there are two visible twists in the wire.  I
>> suppose this is to ensure the twist/connection is sufficient to make a
>> solid connection and perhaps to keep the wires together if the wire nut is
>> removed.
>>
>> The ones in this photo do not look like they were installed as per the
>> instructions, which brings how much attention was put in to installing them
>> in the first place.
>>
>> I've always questioned the why wire nuts are cautioned against,
>> especially considering how many wire nuts are used in residential and
>> commercial jobs.  I'm sure if there was a legit issue with them then
>> insurance companies would insist they not be used, such as aluminum wiring?
>>
>>
>> *Benn Kilburn *
>>
>> CSA Certified Solar Photovoltaic Systems Electrician, SkyFire Energy Inc
>>
>> 14515 – 121A Ave NW | Edmonton, AB | T5L 2T2
>>
>> P: 780-474-8992 | F: 888-405-5843 | www.skyfireenergy.com
>>
>> [image: email]  [image: facebook]
>>  [image: twitter]
>>  [image: linkedin]
>> 
>>
>>
>> [image: SkyFire Energy Logo_horizontal]
>>
>> *WE HAVE MOVED!** Please note our new address above.*
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 6, 2016 at 12:47 PM, Jerry Shafer 
>> wrote:
>>
>> All the other nuts are tight so l cant not say it was or not but l see
>> this alot and this was one that was caught just at the right time.
>> Jerry
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sep 6, 2016 8:44 AM, "Benn Kilburn"  wrote:
>>
>> Jerry,
>>
>> Can you confirm that this was caused by a failure of the wire nut,
>> itself, and not due to user error (not properly stripping enough jacket,
>>  inserting even length wires and sufficiently twisting on the wire nut)
>>
>> Benn Kilburn
>>
>> SkyFire Energy Inc.
>>
>> 780-906-7807
>>
>>
>> On Sep 6, 2016, at 12:32 PM, Jerry Shafer 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Wrenches
>> Better pic
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sep 5, 2016 4:52 PM, "Jerry Shafer"  wrote:
>>
>> To my fellow wrenches
>> It comes up every so often and with DC, I will not use, approve or pass
>> any wire nuts on any DC side. Some say its OK but the facts are they will
>> fail, this connection was just six years and when l opened the junction box
>> it was glowing and by the looks of it has for some time. There are 8
>> strings 2 per string and thats 

Re: [RE-wrenches] demolition hammer drills

[MDElectricSolar .]

I purchased one of the larger Makita roto hammers, after the bosch was just
too light to drive ground rods, the Makita has NO problem driving a ground
rod in most soils. Can't go wrong with Makita, they make the best tools.
Mike Nelson
MD Electric & Solar

On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 2:27 PM, frenergy  wrote:

> Jay,
>
> Several years ago I saw a review on 7-8-9 or so Rotary hammers
> (accepts SDS, max bits) in the Journal of Light Construction and their top
> one was the Hitachi DH40MR, so I bought it and have been happy with it.  I
> too thought it was the tool for installing ground rods, they even supplied
> the "bit" for that purpose.  After many drives, I have found that nothing
> beats a hand held sledge hammer though.  I'm glad I got it for the many
> other things it does beautifully.  It came in a hard case that holds many
> bits...have drilled many 1 1/2" holes in concrete, digs clay/dirt etc great.
>
> Living in the bush of NE CA, I usually go to the enemy for
> specialized toolsAmazon.
>
> Bill
> Taylorsville
>
>
>
> On 1/6/2016 1:29 PM, jay wrote:
>
>> HI All,
>>
>> Any recommendations for a demo hammer, and where to get.
>>
>> I don’t use it much, but for digging holes, and installing ground rods.
>>
>> Standard 15 amp 120v unit.
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> jay
>>
>> peltz power
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MD Electric & Solar Inc.
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Battery charger

[MDElectricSolar .]

Why not use an IOTA 48V plug in battery charger? In a backup situation, the
TL can output at 120V up to 1500W, should be enough to help out.
Mike

On Sun, Jun 7, 2015 at 9:38 AM, Jerry Shafer jerrysgarag...@gmail.com
wrote:

 No, however you will need to keep the tl charger input demand well within
 the tl capability. There are a lot of 48 volt golf cart chargers out there
 but most are fixed output.
 You might consider AC coupling the tl to the Radian skip the charger
 altogether. Just a thhought.
 On Jun 7, 2015 5:53 AM, gary easton g...@arp-solar.com wrote:

 I have a customer with an outback Radian system as well as an SMA TL
 inverter.  He would like to plug a small battery charger into the emergency
 outlet on the SMA if the grid goes down and send that little extra juice
 into his battery bank.  Is there an issue with two systems charging the
 same bank?

 --
 Sent from Gmail Mobile

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Hot water heater heat pumps

[MDElectricSolar .]

Just installed one. A little noisy (like a small refrigerator running) but
installed on a 15A/240V breaker. Sonoma County, coastal, but it's working
fine so far. Challenge was enough airspace, definitely puts out cold,
conditioned air.
Mike

On Tue, May 26, 2015 at 3:43 PM, Phil Forest pfor...@southmountain.com
wrote:

 Wrenches,
 My take so far on this great discussion about heat pump hot water heaters
 (HPHW's) for domestic hot water:
 A HPHW powered by off-grid PV could be very effective, if there was a
 timer which controlled it to only operate during daylight, so it doesn't
 load the batteries at night.  And the HPHW cools and dries the
 appropriately large space where installed, which food, beer and batteries
 are stored.

 Phil Forest
 South Mountain Company

  On May 26, 2015, at 5:35 PM, Tom Lane t...@ecs-solar.com wrote:
 
  The water heater heat pump tanks , I am referring to are ONLY FOR
 HEATING DOMESTIC HOT WATER for washing clothes , showers , baths , and dish
 washing . On April 15 the Feds mandated all new standards for water heaters
 , ALL ELECTRIC AND GAS HOT WATER HEATERS ARE NOW ABOUT TWO INCHES IN
 DIAMETER AND SIX INCHES TALLER that were MANUFACTURED AFTER THAT DATE . All
 66 , 80 and 120 gallon electric water heaters were OUTLAWED except for
 Solar Hot Water Tanks  and 80 gallon water heater heat pumps are  allowed .
 The normal size 30 , 40 ,  and 55 gallon electric and gas water heaters are
 now wider and taller ! Water heater heat pump tanks are usually 55 or 50
 gallons or 80 gallons and have a heat pump only ,  hybrid ( heat pump and
 electric )  , electric only and off modes - for vacation . The idiot Feds
 think they should be used all over the USA , however , my research , sez to
 only use them in hot humid climates in garages ( which they will cool and
 dehumidify ) in climates in the
   h
  ot humid south and East Texas . Do your own research , or look at the
 research done at the Florida Solar Energy Center  . GatorTom PS : rumor has
 it that the Feds may rescind  the order from their hot water Czar on 80 and
 120 gallon electric water heaters ! Or maybe they  will send SWAT teams
 into plumbing supply houses to check on that and also their outlawing brass
 fittings with tiny amounts of lead .
 
 
  Sent from my iPad
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Modules over vents

[MDElectricSolar .]

I have installed modules over plumbing vents many times. Some
inspectors don't seem to care, some DON'T like it. One inspector
claimed that a plumber might need to get onto the roof to snake the
drain lines through the plumbing vents on the roof. If there is
adequate air flow into and out of the vent, that is all that really
matters. They are primarily installed to allow the system to breathe,
and not create vacuums in the drain system.

Michael D. Nelson
MD Electric  Solar


On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 7:33 AM, Solarguy nt...@1scom.net wrote:
 I just finished installing an exhaust vent/intake pipe for a NG powered
 demand water heater in rental property I own. The manufacturers instructions
 require the vent to be a minimum of 12 inches above the roof.

 If you added another 6” of PV you could potentially disrupt the flow of
 exhaust and likely violate its UL listing. The ‘pipe’ trade name is “3X5”, 3
 inch diameter exhaust pipe inside a 5 inch galv pipe.

 If needed you could buy a 6” extension to maintain the clearance but the
 shading would still be a problem.

 Jim Duncan



 From: RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On
 Behalf Of Bill Loesch
 Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2014 5:38 AM
 To: RE-wrenches
 Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Modules over vents




 Bruce, August, et al,

 This is but one more example of confusing terminology. A plumbing vent is
 not an exhaust vent!

 A plumbing vent (what August calls a cold vent) is provided to allow the
 sanitary drain traps (and perhaps more) to operate properly. Without the
 properly functioning traps you would have sewer gas smell and sewer gas from
 the plumbing fixtures. This was commonplace when indoor plumbing was
 introduced to early adopters.

 An exhaust vent is another animal entirely. An exhaust vent carries the
 combustion products to a suitable exterior location for dilution with
 ambient air. With the advent of power vented combustion appliances, a direct
 vent (one that takes in combustion air from the outside and naturally
 exhausts combustion products to the outside) is IMHO the only responsible
 way to install any power vented appliance in a freezing climate. (Power
 vented appliances come in both condensing and non-condensing flavors-they
 can penetrate the side wall or the roof). Originally, two separate pipes
 (with two independent properly separated penetrations) was used. That
 technique is still often used today. More recently concentric vents have
 been introduced both for condensing and non-condensing applications. A
 concentric vent can simplify some installations by putting the exhaust pipe
 inside a larger air intake pipe allowing for one, albeit larger,
 penetration. As you might imagine if the exhaust flow is
 hindered/diverted/redirected by an inappropriately located solar module
 combustion gasses will be re-ingested into the intake air. Not good for
 equipment performance. My understanding is the power vented appliance
 manufacturer dictates what kind of separation/clearances are needed with
 their product. My guess is you find they want at least a foot of separation
 between the top of the  inverted cone and the module. Probably not what
 you had in mind for an aesthetically pleasing installation.

 I hope this helps,

 Bill Loesch

 Solar 1 - Saint Louis Solar

 314 631 1094

 On 23-Sep-14 6:54 PM, August Goers wrote:

 Bruce and All,



 Sorry, I hit send before I had a chance to complete my thoughts. What I

 meant to say was that I've found AHJs often allow us to cover cold

 plumbing vents but I've never tried or had any luck with covering hot

 vents including condensing boiler PVC vents. Once again, if in doubt you

 could see what the plan checker or inspector thinks.



 Best,



 August



 -Original Message-

 From: August Goers [mailto:aug...@luminalt.com]

 Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 4:15 PM

 To: 'RE-wrenches'

 Subject: RE: [RE-wrenches] Modules over vents



 Bruce,



 I'll send you the CA plumbing code vent section offlist (attachment too

 large for this list). The way I read the code is that you technically

 can't cover any type of plumbing or hot vent. However, and I've run into

 little resistance from AHJs in the Bay Area by covering these. You might

 want to check in with your plan checker.



 Best,



 August



 Luminalt



 -Original Message-

 From: RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On

 Behalf Of Bruce Leininger

 Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 3:49 PM

 To: RE-wrenches

 Subject: [RE-wrenches] Modules over vents



 Hi all.  We're designing a system on a roof that is literally infested

 with plumbing, exhaust and combustion vents.  The combustion vents are PVC

 and none of the vents are more than 1.5' above the roof.



 A racking company says that we can cover them with modules, since the

 modules will be at least 4' above the roof.  They have not yet provided

 any building code references to say that this is