Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

2010-05-26 Thread Peter Parrish
I would recommend using Sikaflex 1A. It is about as environmentally sound as
a caulking comes. Moisture curing, as well. One other thought (if someone
hasn’t already mentioned it): put this puppy at the bottom of your string so
that the potential difference to ground is a low as possible. 
 
- Peter
 
 

 
  _  

From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Bill Hoffer
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 6:12 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing
 
Brian

In my past life working for a module manufacturer, we used Dow Corning PV
804 silicone sealant. It comes in black and white flavors, usually not found
off the shelf at Home Depo.   I believe it is the standard used by most
module manufacturers and the only silicon sealant that meets UL746 Polymeric
materials for electrical applications (Insulating tabs electrically).  We
experimented with many types with similar results, but when UL listing a
module you can only use UL listed components (or you get to pay to perform
those tests on that material too!).  The price of PV 804 reflects the UL
listing.  You would need to ask a chemist at Dow Corning if it has a
different composition than the common off the shelf varieties.  It is great
stuff, sticks to everything (especially opposite colored pants!) and moves
well between two materials that may expand and contract at different rates
with varying temperatures, like a module is often exposed to.

Bill
On Tue, May 25, 2010 at 4:51 PM, Brian Teitelbaum bteitelb...@aeesolar.com
wrote:
I like Blair’s idea, but I’ve always used a silicone sealant that doesn’t
use acetic acid as the curing agent. Dow #739 is one type, but any silicone
sealant that is rated as food-grade, or for aquariums, should work fine. The
739 is a “moisture-cure”, 100% silicone, which uses moisture present in the
air as the curing agent. I was told many years ago that this is the stuff
that is used by module manufacturers to attach and seal module junction
boxes and the exit point in the laminate where the tabs come out. It would
be great if a module rep could confirm this with us.
 
Brian Teitelbaum
AEE Solar
 
 
 
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Blair May
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 3:09 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing
 
I use a heat gun to remove moisture  smooth out the rip then I've used some
bitchathane w/ foil tape over that.
I am not sure about the possible corrosive effects of the silicone during
curing.
-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of bob
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 5:49 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing
I have a customer who just put a rip in the (tedlar?) on the back of a Solar
World 175 watt panel. For some reason he thought that he needed to move the
leg to a different hole on his RGM mount instead of just collapsing it.
What’s the best way to seal it back up?
There is no other internal damage that is noticeable its about 1.5” long and
½” at the widest end.
My first thought is to use silicone caulk, but I thought I would pick the
collective brain, so to speak.
 
Thanks,
Bob Ellison

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-- 
Bill Hoffer PE
Sunergy Engineering Services PLLC
2504 Columbia Ave NW
East Wenatchee WA 98802-3941
suneng...@gmail.com (509)470-7762
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

2010-05-26 Thread Exeltech
Bob,

My follow-up as promised...


The sealant in my office is Dow Corning Solar PV 804.  The tube states it's 
Neutral silicone, non-corrosive.  The sealant I have is black, but it's also 
available in white.

As Brian mentioned below, this isn't an off-the-shelf product.  We ordered some 
and waited several weeks for it to arrive.  He's also correct about at least 
one aspect of the application usage .. it's used to attach junction boxes to 
PV.  Likely other purposes as well.



Dan

Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing 

Brian

In my past life working for a module manufacturer, we used Dow Corning PV 804 
silicone sealant. It comes in black and white flavors, usually not found off 
the shelf at Home Depo.   I believe it is the standard used by most module 
manufacturers and the only silicon sealant that meets UL746 Polymeric materials 
for electrical applications (Insulating tabs electrically).  We experimented 
with many types with similar results, but when UL listing a module you can only 
use UL listed components (or you get to pay to perform those tests on that 
material too!).  The price of PV 804 reflects the UL listing.  You would need 
to ask a chemist at Dow Corning if it has a different composition than the 
common off the shelf varieties.  It is great stuff, sticks to everything 
(especially opposite colored pants!) and moves well between two materials that 
may expand and contract at different rates with varying temperatures, like a 
module is often exposed to.

Bill 



On Tue, May 25, 2010 at 4:51 PM, Brian Teitelbaum bteitelb...@aeesolar.com 
wrote: 

I like Blair’s idea, but I’ve always used a silicone sealant that doesn’t use 
acetic acid as the curing agent. Dow #739 is one type, but any silicone sealant 
that is rated as food-grade, or for aquariums, should work fine. The 739 is a 
“moisture-cure”, 100% silicone, which uses moisture present in the air as the 
curing agent. I was told many years ago that this is the stuff that is used by 
module manufacturers to attach and seal module junction boxes and the exit 
point in the laminate where the tabs come out. It would be great if a module 
rep could confirm this with us. 

Brian Teitelbaum 

AEE Solar 

  

  

  


-Original Message-
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 5:49 AM

To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing 

I have a customer who just put a rip in the (tedlar?) on the back of a Solar 
World 175 watt panel. For some reason he thought that he needed to move the leg 
to a different hole on his RGM mount instead of just collapsing it.

What’s the best way to seal it back up? 

There is no other internal damage that is noticeable its about 1.5” long and ½” 
at the widest end. 

My first thought is to use silicone caulk, but I thought I would pick the 
collective brain, so to speak. 

  

Thanks, 

Bob Ellison 



  
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

2010-05-26 Thread Jeff Oldham
I've always used the mentioned much easier to find RTV Silcone and have it sun 
exposed for over 10 years and it's doing great, looks like day one.

-jeff o

From the Solar, Wind and Hydro powered office of Jeff Oldham/Regenerative 
SOLutions



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[RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

2010-05-25 Thread bob
I have a customer who just put a rip in the (tedlar?) on the back of a Solar
World 175 watt panel. For some reason he thought that he needed to move the
leg to a different hole on his RGM mount instead of just collapsing it.

What’s the best way to seal it back up?

There is no other internal damage that is noticeable its about 1.5” long and
½” at the widest end.

My first thought is to use silicone caulk, but I thought I would pick the
collective brain, so to speak.

 

Thanks,

Bob Ellison

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

2010-05-25 Thread Blair May
I use a heat gun to remove moisture  smooth out the rip then I've used some
bitchathane w/ foil tape over that.
I am not sure about the possible corrosive effects of the silicone during
curing.

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of bob
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 5:49 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing



I have a customer who just put a rip in the (tedlar?) on the back of a Solar
World 175 watt panel. For some reason he thought that he needed to move the
leg to a different hole on his RGM mount instead of just collapsing it.

What’s the best way to seal it back up?

There is no other internal damage that is noticeable its about 1.5” long and
½” at the widest end.

My first thought is to use silicone caulk, but I thought I would pick the
collective brain, so to speak.

 

Thanks,

Bob Ellison

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Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

2010-05-25 Thread Brian Teitelbaum
I like Blair's idea, but I've always used a silicone sealant that doesn't use 
acetic acid as the curing agent. Dow #739 is one type, but any silicone sealant 
that is rated as food-grade, or for aquariums, should work fine. The 739 is a 
moisture-cure, 100% silicone, which uses moisture present in the air as the 
curing agent. I was told many years ago that this is the stuff that is used by 
module manufacturers to attach and seal module junction boxes and the exit 
point in the laminate where the tabs come out. It would be great if a module 
rep could confirm this with us.

Brian Teitelbaum
AEE Solar



From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Blair May
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 3:09 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

I use a heat gun to remove moisture  smooth out the rip then I've used some 
bitchathane w/ foil tape over that.
I am not sure about the possible corrosive effects of the silicone during 
curing.
-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of bob
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 5:49 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing
I have a customer who just put a rip in the (tedlar?) on the back of a Solar 
World 175 watt panel. For some reason he thought that he needed to move the leg 
to a different hole on his RGM mount instead of just collapsing it.
What's the best way to seal it back up?
There is no other internal damage that is noticeable its about 1.5 long and ½ 
at the widest end.
My first thought is to use silicone caulk, but I thought I would pick the 
collective brain, so to speak.

Thanks,
Bob Ellison
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

2010-05-25 Thread Exeltech
Brian and all...

I have some of the PV-specific sealant in my office.  I'll confirm the 
manufacturer and part number when I go in tomorrow...

Some sealants I've used over the decades to repair PV seal initially, but don't 
stay sealed permanently to the PV backsheet.  It takes a few years to become 
unglued.  By then .. moisture has entered and damaged the PV.

The sealant at my office goes on .. and stays on.

Watch this space.

Dan


--- On Tue, 5/25/10, Brian Teitelbaum bteitelb...@aeesolar.com wrote:

From: Brian Teitelbaum bteitelb...@aeesolar.com
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing
To: RE-wrenches re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
Date: Tuesday, May 25, 2010, 6:51 PM

I like Blair’s idea, but I’ve always used a silicone sealant that doesn’t use 
acetic acid as the curing agent. Dow #739 is one type, but any silicone sealant 
that is rated as food-grade, or for aquariums, should work fine. The 739 is a 
“moisture-cure”, 100% silicone, which uses moisture present in the air as the 
curing agent. I was told many years ago that this is the stuff that is used by 
module manufacturers to attach and seal module junction boxes and the exit 
point in the laminate where the tabs come out. It would be great if a module 
rep could confirm this with us. 

Brian Teitelbaum 
AEE Solar 



  
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

2010-05-25 Thread Bill Hoffer
Brian

In my past life working for a module manufacturer, we used Dow Corning PV
804 silicone sealant. It comes in black and white flavors, usually not found
off the shelf at Home Depo.   I believe it is the standard used by most
module manufacturers and the only silicon sealant that meets UL746 Polymeric
materials for electrical applications (Insulating tabs electrically).  We
experimented with many types with similar results, but when UL listing a
module you can only use UL listed components (or you get to pay to perform
those tests on that material too!).  The price of PV 804 reflects the UL
listing.  You would need to ask a chemist at Dow Corning if it has a
different composition than the common off the shelf varieties.  It is great
stuff, sticks to everything (especially opposite colored pants!) and moves
well between two materials that may expand and contract at different rates
with varying temperatures, like a module is often exposed to.

Bill

On Tue, May 25, 2010 at 4:51 PM, Brian Teitelbaum
bteitelb...@aeesolar.comwrote:

  I like Blair’s idea, but I’ve always used a silicone sealant that doesn’t
 use acetic acid as the curing agent. Dow #739 is one type, but any silicone
 sealant that is rated as food-grade, or for aquariums, should work fine. The
 739 is a “moisture-cure”, 100% silicone, which uses moisture present in the
 air as the curing agent. I was told many years ago that this is the stuff
 that is used by module manufacturers to attach and seal module junction
 boxes and the exit point in the laminate where the tabs come out. It would
 be great if a module rep could confirm this with us.



 Brian Teitelbaum

 AEE Solar







 *From:* re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org [mailto:
 re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] *On Behalf Of *Blair May
 *Sent:* Tuesday, May 25, 2010 3:09 AM
 *To:* 'RE-wrenches'
 *Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing



 I use a heat gun to remove moisture  smooth out the rip then I've used
 some bitchathane w/ foil tape over that.

 I am not sure about the possible corrosive effects of the silicone during
 curing.

 -Original Message-
 *From:* re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org [mailto:
 re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] *On Behalf Of *bob
 *Sent:* Tuesday, May 25, 2010 5:49 AM
 *To:* 'RE-wrenches'
 *Subject:* [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

 I have a customer who just put a rip in the (tedlar?) on the back of a
 Solar World 175 watt panel. For some reason he thought that he needed to
 move the leg to a different hole on his RGM mount instead of just collapsing
 it.

 What’s the best way to seal it back up?

 There is no other internal damage that is noticeable its about 1.5” long
 and ½” at the widest end.

 My first thought is to use silicone caulk, but I thought I would pick the
 collective brain, so to speak.



 Thanks,

 Bob Ellison


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-- 
Bill Hoffer PE
Sunergy Engineering Services PLLC
2504 Columbia Ave NW
East Wenatchee WA 98802-3941
suneng...@gmail.com (509)470-7762
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

2010-05-25 Thread Joel Davidson
MessageBrian is correct. 739 is a reliable sealant. Some people put acid-free, 
clear, insulating tape on the tear after cleaning (clean, dry or lightly damp 
cotton cloth) and drying (heat gun on low setting or hair dryer) the area and 
before applying the silicone. The tape is optional.
Joel Davidson
  - Original Message - 
  From: Brian Teitelbaum 
  To: RE-wrenches 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 4:51 PM
  Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing


  I like Blair's idea, but I've always used a silicone sealant that doesn't use 
acetic acid as the curing agent. Dow #739 is one type, but any silicone sealant 
that is rated as food-grade, or for aquariums, should work fine. The 739 is a 
moisture-cure, 100% silicone, which uses moisture present in the air as the 
curing agent. I was told many years ago that this is the stuff that is used by 
module manufacturers to attach and seal module junction boxes and the exit 
point in the laminate where the tabs come out. It would be great if a module 
rep could confirm this with us.

   

  Brian Teitelbaum

  AEE Solar

   

   

   

  From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Blair May
  Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 3:09 AM
  To: 'RE-wrenches'
  Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

   

  I use a heat gun to remove moisture  smooth out the rip then I've used some 
bitchathane w/ foil tape over that.

  I am not sure about the possible corrosive effects of the silicone during 
curing.

-Original Message-
From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of bob
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 5:49 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

I have a customer who just put a rip in the (tedlar?) on the back of a 
Solar World 175 watt panel. For some reason he thought that he needed to move 
the leg to a different hole on his RGM mount instead of just collapsing it.

What's the best way to seal it back up?

There is no other internal damage that is noticeable its about 1.5 long 
and ½ at the widest end.

My first thought is to use silicone caulk, but I thought I would pick the 
collective brain, so to speak.

 

Thanks,

Bob Ellison



--


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Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

2010-05-25 Thread Joel Davidson
MessageYou can also use GE Silicone RTV-108 sold by Grainger.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Joel Davidson 
  To: RE-wrenches 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 6:07 PM
  Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing


  Brian is correct. 739 is a reliable sealant. Some people put acid-free, 
clear, insulating tape on the tear after cleaning (clean, dry or lightly damp 
cotton cloth) and drying (heat gun on low setting or hair dryer) the area and 
before applying the silicone. The tape is optional.
  Joel Davidson
- Original Message - 
From: Brian Teitelbaum 
To: RE-wrenches 
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing


I like Blair's idea, but I've always used a silicone sealant that doesn't 
use acetic acid as the curing agent. Dow #739 is one type, but any silicone 
sealant that is rated as food-grade, or for aquariums, should work fine. The 
739 is a moisture-cure, 100% silicone, which uses moisture present in the air 
as the curing agent. I was told many years ago that this is the stuff that is 
used by module manufacturers to attach and seal module junction boxes and the 
exit point in the laminate where the tabs come out. It would be great if a 
module rep could confirm this with us.

 

Brian Teitelbaum

AEE Solar

 

 

 

From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Blair May
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 3:09 AM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

 

I use a heat gun to remove moisture  smooth out the rip then I've used 
some bitchathane w/ foil tape over that.

I am not sure about the possible corrosive effects of the silicone during 
curing.

  -Original Message-
  From: re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org 
[mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of bob
  Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 5:49 AM
  To: 'RE-wrenches'
  Subject: [RE-wrenches] Rip in panel backing

  I have a customer who just put a rip in the (tedlar?) on the back of a 
Solar World 175 watt panel. For some reason he thought that he needed to move 
the leg to a different hole on his RGM mount instead of just collapsing it.

  What's the best way to seal it back up?

  There is no other internal damage that is noticeable its about 1.5 long 
and ½ at the widest end.

  My first thought is to use silicone caulk, but I thought I would pick the 
collective brain, so to speak.

   

  Thanks,

  Bob Ellison






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