[Repeater-Builder] Re: Speaking of Wacom WP-678
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At 04:03 PM 8/5/2004 -0500, you wrote: Hello, that is one of Lloyd Alcorn's marvels. He showed that design to me a long time ago, it is BpBr, between the notch and the pass you should have a really good duplexer. ---Yea? How can it be a BP/BR with only one port per cavity? REAL EASY, It's not hard. You haven't seen many BpBr Duplexers have you? The pass is tuned with the plunger (inthe center) and the notch is tuned with the Rod (not plexiglass). The RF is applied at the connector (one end of the internal loop) the other end of the loop has a cap to ground adjusted by changing the dielectric of the cap by adjusting the rod. That's how it works in a very very simplestic exp. And I don't think it's a hybrid ring either. RIGHT !!! That's another animal. Ken (somewhat stumped) --- --- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of state-of-the-art repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Speaking of Wacom WP-678
At 11:42 PM 8/5/2004 -, you wrote: REAL EASY, It's not hard. You haven't seen many BpBr Duplexers have you? ---Actually, I've seen tons of Batwing ones, Sinclair, even ol' Celwave ones. Even the newer Wacom ones (now RxTx) have cavities in series, not parallel. The pass is tuned with the plunger (inthe center) and the notch is tuned with the Rod (not plexiglass). The RF is applied at the connector (one end of the internal loop) the other end of the loop has a cap to ground adjusted by changing the dielectric of the cap by adjusting the rod. That's how it works in a very very simplestic exp. ---Thanks for the explanation. It must have to do with the propagation mode to/from the cavity. It took awhile to wrap my head around a bandpass cavity being in parallel with the feed and not in series with it. Ken -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of state-of-the-art repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Help Please - Hooking up 2x GM-300 Radios for Full-Duplex Link
Piece of cake here (sorry, dun it before :) ) Pin 2 - Mic Audio (Pre-emphasis) Pin 3 - PTT (pull to ground to tx, works with link-comm_ Pin 5 - Flat TX Audio (no pre-emp) Pin 7 - Ground Pin 8 - CSQ or CSQandPL detect (CSQ and PL detect only works if microphone H.U.B. input is grounded) Pin 11 - Discriminator audio (may also be de-emp audio, changed by jumper on logic board, I forget which one, maybe JU551) Pin 1 and 16 - Speaker audio (neither lead should ever come to ground, balanced audio) NOTE - 8 Channel models, accessory pins are NOT programmable, the 16 channel units are much better. On front mic plug, pin 8 is handset audio (low level speaker audio) I hope that helps you out. If you have any other questions, you can write direct or here. James Kevin Natalia wrote: Hi All, I have 2x GM-300 radios which I wish to use as a full duplex link at one of our main repeater sites. These radios are 8 ch ones, and I want to use the connector in the back of the radio. Could someone please advise of the correct way of wiring it up. Should mention it will be going into a Link-Comm RLC-3 controller. Regards Kev. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] UHF Micor RX
Comes off the collector of the 3rd doubler - a coupling capacitor to the L106/L107/L108 Injection Filter - factory says it is a 2.7 pf. Neil - WA6KLA Kevin Custer wrote: John Sichert wrote: Did the RX have rated sensitivity on the original operating frequency? If not, Q104 may be bad. If so, try replacing C138 with a 4.7pf. John Hey John, What does that capacitor change actually do? I don't have my UHF book here to look and see. Maybe this should be added to the conversion page? Kevin Custer Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Hi All, Help with Building Cavity
I had a set of copper copper pipe duplexers for 220 years ago. I thinnk they were 4 inch in diameter. I had a stability problem due to temperature changes. They required a "winter tune" and "summer tune" twice a year. I used them for several years and the taught me why I neede to find a good set of duplexers. I learned alot from those cans. I contemplated the PC board cavities, but heard that they were even more unstable than the copper pipe. There was some scheme to silver plate the PC boards using DC current, some sort of solution, and silver coins. The plating was extremely thin, but did work. 73, Joe, K1ikeRandy Karen Long [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ed,I have a set built out of the May 1973 QST... With few modifications theywork as well or better than the Wacoms or Cellwaves I have used. Amcurrently sourcing some 4" type L copper now to build more. If you have morttime than money, you can come up with duplexers that may not always be theprettiest, but darn functional.QST also had an article I am looking back to see if I can find, that if Irecall is called the "Six-pack". Its made from double-sided PC boards andthen plated with Silver as a part of the construction. I have not talked toanyone who has used them, or even built them, but certainly am looking atthem for a repeater that we can back pack to its destination.Randy, W0AVV Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q-203d Duplexer Question
After talking with the helpful people at Sinclair it appears that the Q-203d is indeed a wide separation (3MHz) duplexer. Thanks to all for your help. 73, KD5TKR Charles Blythe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Charles Blythe [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well, in keeping with my tradition, I saved another batch of radio equipment from the dumpster. I need some information on a duplexer I picked up. It is a Sinclair Q-203d VHF. I'm thinking it will probably be a wide separation model, but you can't be sure with all the folded designs out there. As a side note, if anyone is looking for a complete 7 channel LTR SMR, mail me off the list. 73, KD5TKR Charles Blythe Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] UHF Micor RX
Thanks Neil, So increasing the value of C138 increases the injection to the mixer I always thought the UHF Micor suffered from insufficient drive from the LO anyway. Kevin Custer Neil McKie wrote: Comes off the collector of the 3rd doubler - a coupling capacitor to the L106/L107/L108 Injection Filter - factory says it is a 2.7 pf. Neil - WA6KLA Kevin Custer wrote: John Sichert wrote: Did the RX have rated sensitivity on the original operating frequency? If not, Q104 may be bad. If so, try replacing C138 with a 4.7pf. John Hey John, What does that capacitor change actually do? I don't have my UHF book here to look and see. Maybe this should be added to the conversion page? Kevin Custer Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Hi All, Help with Building Cavity
Joe, My experience was that with silver plating, so long as it was reasonably thick (its all relative) I have had no problem with summer Vs winter tuning. Problems do arise if the plating is too thin as it tends to peel off inside detuning the cans and the only short time fix is to knock a rubber mallet on the side of the cans (gently but firmly) causing the platting that has become loose to fall to the bottom and all is well with the world again. With a reasonable plating job, the tuning remains pretty constant is my experience. Perhaps climates that are more humid than we have here in the Colorado area have more of an issue. I dunno J BTW current relative humidity is 14%. Randy, W0AVV From: Joe [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 6:49 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Hi All, Help with Building Cavity I had a set of copper copper pipe duplexers for 220 years ago. I thinnk they were 4 inch in diameter. I had a stability problem due to temperature changes. They required a winter tune and summer tune twice a year. I used them for several years and the taught me why I neede to find a good set of duplexers. I learned alot from those cans. I contemplated the PC board cavities, but heard that they were even more unstable than the copper pipe. There was some scheme to silver plate the PC boards using DC current, some sort of solution, and silver coins. The plating was extremely thin, but did work. 73, Joe, K1ike Randy Karen Long [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ed, I have a set built out of the May 1973 QST... With few modifications they work as well or better than the Wacoms or Cellwaves I have used. Am currently sourcing some 4 type L copper now to build more. If you have mort time than money, you can come up with duplexers that may not always be the prettiest, but darn functional. QST also had an article I am looking back to see if I can find, that if I recall is called the Six-pack. Its made from double-sided PC boards and then plated with Silver as a part of the construction. I have not talked to anyone who has used them, or even built them, but certainly am looking at them for a repeater that we can back pack to its destination. Randy, W0AVV Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] UHF Micor RX
Kevin, Increasing the cap gives a little more injection, it does make a difference. I never saw a response if the receiver is working now. John At 08:46 PM 8/5/04, you wrote: Comes off the collector of the 3rd doubler - a coupling capacitor to the L106/L107/L108 Injection Filter - factory says it is a 2.7 pf. Neil - WA6KLA Kevin Custer wrote: John Sichert wrote: Did the RX have rated sensitivity on the original operating frequency? If not, Q104 may be bad. If so, try replacing C138 with a 4.7pf. John Hey John, What does that capacitor change actually do? I don't have my UHF book here to look and see. Maybe this should be added to the conversion page? Kevin Custer Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Celwave PD200 Repair
I looked at a VHF PD-200 in my garage that I had apart a few years ago, the tip has a small allen screw in it. I think I loosened this screw to get the guts out of the radome. My PD-200 is noisy, this is usually caused by joints that have become intermittant. I was never able to find the bad joint, my next plan was to pass voltage thru the antenna using a car headlight or something else as a current limiter. I was then going to take voltage readings across the joints and see if I can find the bad joint. You could use the same technique to find the open. If the radome is weathered badly, I wonder if it is worth fixing. There has been various methods to reseal the fiberglass mentioned. While you have the antenna apart, make sure that you check all the joints. The PD-200 has a history of noise problems as stated above. 73, Joe, K1ikeTony Faiola [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Subject: Antenna Repair Fiberglass Collinear AntennaWe were given a 5.8 db Gain Stationmaster for the 220 band, and it seemsto be very sick.There is no DC continuity directly across the UHF connector, and theVSWR is horrible! We are in the process of taking this antenna apart, however there aresome of you on this site have been there and done that. This subjecthas been covered a while back, but I can't seem to find any reference inthe index. If I recall, there are three screws holding the base, butthe antenna fiber glass sheath will not pull out, only if a torch heatsthe solder at the antenna tip. Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Celwave PD200 Repair
The epoxy sealing the three recessed screws on 120 deg centers near the aluminum mounting tube meets the fiberglass must be removed. The set screw at top must be removed and the tip heated with heat gun. Cap will come off. Don't overheat fiberglass. The complete antenna then can be removed from the fiberglass tube. Suggest you place complete antenna on a flat board at least 4 inches wide prior to pulling fiberglass tube off. It gets very floppy and the board will keep things straight for you. My problem was the first radiating section where it connected from one outside tube to the next center conductor. It flexes and the center conductor becomes work hardened and eventually forms a fine hairline crack. Could not see it with eye, touched it with a finger and it broke. Soldering the joint with lead/tin is a temporary fix. I used low temp silversolder. Made a sleeve from brass tubing purchased at hobby shop. The spacers for the center conductor will melt if you apply too much heat. Adjust nothing in bottom of antenna near the coax connector. Painted antenna with similiar color fiberglass Sherwin-Williams Co paint from boat store. Worked fine. Don't use a dark color. Have more info from CellWave if you want, contact me directly. Gary K2UQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] UHF Micor RX
John Sichert wrote: Kevin, Increasing the cap gives a little more injection, it does make a difference. I'm sure it does. The Micor UHF always seemed to be LO starved in my opinion. I never saw a response if the receiver is working now. Neither did I, but I also gave him the other mods that we use so I'm not sure what (if anything) fixed his problem. Thanks John... Kevin Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
