[Repeater-Builder] Re: Fixing Stationmaster
Joe, If you can get hold of a TDR that worked well for us to find the problem. If also is a easy method to test for antenna problems while still on the tower. We had a Stationmaster with a bad solder joint and it was causing desense in windy days. Found and fixed with the TDR. Also we had problems with guy wires causing noise in the system and fixed finally by installing Phylistran guys. Randy --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I have a stationmaster in the garage that is noisy. It came off the local club repeater and replacing it made our noise problem go away. I've taken it apart and inspected it for cracks in the joints but can't find any. I've been thinking of sending a 12VDC voltage through it using a ballast resistor and looking for the warm joint with a handheld thermometer we just got at work. With enough current going through the joints, I should be able to detect the bad joint. > > Any other ideas? > > Joe > skipp025 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > I've had the same problem caused by an old station master. > > We swapped it out and the new antenna fixed the problem Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] whats is the differ between the VHF & UHF
Hi can anyone please tell me which the best VHF or UHF to select it to communicate inside the big ship , i think the UHF best to select it thanks Best Regards YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] For Sale - OT, hopefully the end
U NO -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Richard Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:05 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] For Sale - OT, hopefully the end Oh, ummm... isn't that the same as a comma? Richard -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Chuck Kelsey Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 6:59 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] For Sale - OT, hopefully the end I never cease to be amazed by the number of people whom don't understand that the PERIOD is the important thing here and that it was in the correct place. If you go to buy gasoline and it's $2.579 per gallon, do you really think it's two thousand five hundred and seventy nine dollars a gallon? Geez! Sorry for the off-topic, but I couldn't stand it anymore. Chuck - Original Message - From: "Jim McLaughlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:27 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] For Sale > Don't worry yourself about it as it's sold anyway. > > Jim > - Original Message - > From: "Mark A. Holman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 19:13 PM > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] For Sale > > >> $65 Grand or $65.00 ? >> >> yeouch! >> >> Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Fixing Stationmaster
One way to know for sure where the noise is coming from is to take the antenna out of the shell and lay the elements out on a tarp or large sections of cardboard. I usually take 3 long tables back to back and set them up in the shop and lay the insides of the antenna on the tables for a comfortable working position. If you by any chance can get the repeater and duplexer to your shop, do it. From the output of the duplexer, run a short piece of dependable cable (like Heliax or Superflex) to the antenna laying on your work area. With a signal generator, generate a signal in free space on the repeater input frequency until you get a pretty much full quieting signal. Keep the transmitter keyed at the same time (simulating the repeater is actually repeating) but keep the power down (to prevent RF burns) and go through each 1/2 wave section of the antenna and wiggle the upper and lower joints back and forth. An obvious crackle from the repeater receiver will appear where the broken joints are. Make sure you don't have any change in your pocket, belt buckles on, or watches/jewelry as they can all act as metal touching metal and make noises while you are trying to do your test. If you don't believe it, while the repeater is operating, take two screwdrivers and rub them together. At VHF and only at 15 or 20 watts into the antenna, you can completely demolish a good receive signal by rubbing metal together 20 feet away! If you are talking about the PD-220-2, before you disassemble, make close note of how far up in the support tube the large "lock washer" piece rests. Take a measuring tape and mark it before you loosen the three hex bolts that hold tension on the washer. This is part of the decoupling assembly and its position affects the match. You will have to use a long hex tool to loosen the bolts, I think it's like a 7/32" hex head. The PD-220 models also have been known to make noise in the bottom feed section. Careful heating with mapp gas or propane torch will allow you to disassemble the bottom portion and clean the contacts that are compression fit, especially into the bottom SO-239 connector. Steel wool, then cleaning with a solvent, and then using no-oxide grease usually makes for a long lasting antenna. If you suspect a joint, and find it making noise, you can usually wiggle tbe joint back and forth and see a hairline crack develop. 60/40 solder will bond to the existing solder, but it's not as strong. I use 15% silver solder and an oxy-acetylene torch like used in HVAC to repair the joints, but you must heat it very hot, very quick, get on and get off to prevent total melting of the little plastic spacers inside the copper. In a pinch, I have used a stainless worm clap around the joint and screwed it tight and wrapped it with rubber tape and sticky goo and it's still working (only because I didn't have a torch and solder at the site) I tried pumping a little 12 VDC through a PD-200 one time and it melted the joint that was loose. I also did this with a PD-455 UHF version and it melted the center pin on the N connector. Be careful. I know it's long and detailed but good luck anyway on your repair. 73, KC4FWC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I have a stationmaster in the garage that is noisy. It came off the local club repeater and replacing it made our noise problem go away. I've taken it apart and inspected it for cracks in the joints but can't find any. I've been thinking of sending a 12VDC voltage through it using a ballast resistor and looking for the warm joint with a handheld thermometer we just got at work. With enough current going through the joints, I should be able to detect the bad joint. > > Any other ideas? > > Joe Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] ICOM PROGRAMMING
Hello Group Looking for some one with a programmer for eeprom for IC RP 3010 repeater. I have a friend in need of some minor changes in the program Pls reply off list Thanks Ed K9QPJ [EMAIL PROTECTED] YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Fixing Stationmaster
I have a stationmaster in the garage that is noisy. It came off the local club repeater and replacing it made our noise problem go away. I've taken it apart and inspected it for cracks in the joints but can't find any. I've been thinking of sending a 12VDC voltage through it using a ballast resistor and looking for the warm joint with a handheld thermometer we just got at work. With enough current going through the joints, I should be able to detect the bad joint. Any other ideas? Joe skipp025 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I've had the same problem caused by an old station master. > We swapped it out and the new antenna fixed the problem Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Induced RF on tower - May cause desense, too?
Yes you need to keep that in mind. I know the bolts that are on my tower came with grade 5. keep that in mine. I don't know if SS comes in grade 5. - Original Message - From: "Joe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 7:57 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Induced RF on tower - May cause desense, too? > I've been told that stainless steel is alot weaker that the original tower > bolts. > > 73, Joe, K1ike > > Chuck Kelsey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> That's why I pitch the cheap, plated bolts that come with the tower >> sections >> and use stainless steel ones instead. The zinc plated ones would be rusty >> about a year later. >> >> Chuck >> WB2EDV >> >> >> >> - Original Message - >> From: "Frank R. Vondra" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> To: >> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:56 PM >> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Induced RF on tower - May cause desense, >> too? >> >> >> > We experienced a similar situation with an VHF repeater >> > two years ago. The culprit was traced down to rusty bolts >> > on the Rohn 25 tower. Tapping on the tower legs with a >> > large hammer would make the problem go away for a short >> > period of time, but it would return in a few weeks or days. >> > >> > Finding and replacing the bolts cured the problem. >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > Yahoo! Groups Links >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Yahoo! Groups Links >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor PA wanted
Looking for a UHF Micor continous duty / working condx / capable of 452 Mhz. Ed K9QPJ enail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.com-rad.com - Original Message - From: Ted Bleiman K9MDM - MDM Radio To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com ; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 11:48 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor parts wanted we have tln4926 and m9701 network may take a while mdm "Terry A. Gibbs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I'm searching for replacement parts needed to repair apparent lightning damage on a Micor base station used as an ARES repeater operating on 442.425. I'm in need of a Power Control Board (current one is TLN4926), an Antenna Network (current one is TLE1673A), and a control stage transistor (Q902 - M9701).Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.TerryWK4EYahoo! Groups Links<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Ted Bleiman K9MDM MDM Radio Ltd - 1629-B N. 31 st Ave Melrose Park, IL 60160 708.681.0300 fax 708.681.9800 web http://www.mdmradio.com - Check it now!! Yahoo! Mail for MobileTake Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Induced RF on tower - May cause desense, too?
I've been told that stainless steel is alot weaker that the original tower bolts. 73, Joe, K1ike Chuck Kelsey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > That's why I pitch the cheap, plated bolts that come with the tower sections > and use stainless steel ones instead. The zinc plated ones would be rusty > about a year later. > > Chuck > WB2EDV > > > > - Original Message - > From: "Frank R. Vondra" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:56 PM > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Induced RF on tower - May cause desense, > too? > > > > We experienced a similar situation with an VHF repeater > > two years ago. The culprit was traced down to rusty bolts > > on the Rohn 25 tower. Tapping on the tower legs with a > > large hammer would make the problem go away for a short > > period of time, but it would return in a few weeks or days. > > > > Finding and replacing the bolts cured the problem. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] ARR preamp schematic
Are you trying to repair one? If so, you might call Jay at ARR. He was very reasonable the last time a had a few repaired. 73, Joe, K1ike Ralph Mowery <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Is there a place that I can find a schematic for an > ARR gasfet preamp ? I need the one with the switching > relays. The two meter version, but they are probably > all the same. > > > > > __ > Yahoo! Mail for Mobile > Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. > http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Batteries in Parallel
I just had an experience at work with battery problems. I work for a wireless company and we use 105 amp lead acid cells in a series-paralel configuration, 12 volt cells, three 48 volt strings. I was at the site last week and detected the smell (and taste) of overcharging batteries. I learned a trick in my old "Bell Head" days to open my mouth and inhale while in the battery room of central offices. This was taught to me by and old time technician. If a battery is overcharging, you will detect a strange taste on your tongue that you learn to remember, that also warns you of the possibility of explosive gasses in the area. In the cellsite, I found one of the 48 volt strings very warm and the battery cases of all 4 batteries buckling and swelling. A voltage test showed one battery reading 10.5 volts instead of 13.5 volts. This indicated a shorted cell in that 12 volt battery. I ventilated the room, put on safety glasses, and disconnected the sting from the other two strings. The entire string will have to be replaced. This is an example of what can happen to a series battery. I would discourage you from using parallel batteries on a repeater, one large battery would be a much better and safer choice. We do use parallel batteries at work, but routine maintenance is required to keep them safely operating. 73, Joe, K1ike goodyk3ng <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Greetings, > > I'm curious if anyone has experience paralleling deep cycle batteries > for a repeater backup. Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] TM-733
Hi Mike, thanks for your reply... At 23:12 23/08/05, you wrote: >At 01:17 PM 8/23/05, you wrote: > > >Hi all, > >I need your help with a TM-733... > >It is warming up a lot and has no reception in vhf band... > >It does heat up in reception, after few minutes on it cannot you play it of > >so hot... > >Are you sure that the transmit on VHF isn't locked on? Perhaps >by a damaged (shorted) mic cable? Or a fragment of metal in >the jack? Or a shorted mic jack? (it happens). I have transmit just I preess PTT... > >I´m looking for the service manual too... > >Don't have one, but someone else here may. > > >Can somebody help me please??? > >Thanks in advance... > >Best 73´s, > >Silva. > > > > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > Best 73´s, Silva. * Brazilian Ham Radio Callsign : PY8ELO Old calls : PU2ELO/PP2ELO/PY9ELO QRA : Silva Address : PO BOX ( CAIXA POSTAL ) 151 Centro CEP 68180-630 ITAITUBA - PARÁ - BRASIL - GI25AR Amazon forest the lung of the world ! * QRV: 7.075,00 KHz 14.145,00 KHz 28.365,00 KHz 50.110,00 KHz - Power: 0,05 - 25 Watts Power: 0,05 - 100 Watts 160 up 10 meter Please visit : "http://www.zzum.com.br/silva"; and post Your DX info. *** Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
