RE: [Repeater-Builder] Crimp versus Clamp Connectors

[Rod Lane]

You should probably not be looping those patch cables through cinder blocks
before you attach them to the antenna.  ;^)

Seriously, the rated pull force for Amphenol Type N is on their web site at
http://www.amphenolrf.com/products/typen.asp

Cable Retention; 
Crimps: 60-120 lbs
Clamps: 30-70 lbs.

If you had this kind of problem, I'd sincerely suspect an installation
issue.  Improper strip length or crimping can lead to poor cable retention.
Check you connector manufacturers' data sheet.

73

Rod Lane,  N1FNE

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Q
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 3:11 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Crimp versus Clamp Connectors

There is no "knife edge" against the braid,it is a clamping type 
connector that the braid folds over a stepped insert.
 I will relate my experience with crimp connectors when we decided to 
try them for the first time. We had put 22 antennas up on a 500' Rohn 65 
tower with crimped on connectors on all the pigtails and 11 of them 
failed within a month. They had pulled out or had broken the shield 
braid at the crimp. We did a little non-scientific stress test on crimp 
vs. clamp pigtails by suspending a weight from the cable ,adding more 
until they failed. The clamp type took THREE TIMES as much weight before 
it let go.We also did a flex test and the crimp braid failed long before 
the clamp one did. That was all I needed to see to change my mind! All 
were replaced with mil-spec clamp style connectors and are all still in 
service 20 years after the fact. Company policy was implemented that 
required all outdoor connectors be mil-spec clamp type Amphenols at all 
303 company tower sites. Now maybe you can get away with crimps on some 
sites,but not up north on the Great Lakes where winds are tough and ice 
is common. You quickly learn what works and what doesnt and you will 
NEVER convice me to use crimp on connectors again! I guess I'm old and 
set in my ways,for good reason   73,Lee

Eric Lemmon wrote:

>Lee,
>
>I appreciate your comments, but I can rebut them easily.  I have seen too
>many clamp-type connectors pull apart, usually because they were
>over-tightened during assembly.  Take a close look at a MIL-spec clamp-type
>N connector, and you can see that the knife-edge component can slice right
>through the braid if the nut is over-tightened, allowing the cable and the
>center conductor to pull right out of the connector.  That seldom, if ever,
>happens with a properly-applied crimp connector.  Moreover, how often do
you
>see a technician use a torque wrench to tighten the nut, per instructions?
>Most cable techs just wrench the nut until it doesn't move any more- and
>that's exactly where the faulty installation occurs.  When the proper
>crimper is used, that cannot occur with a crimp connector.
>
>One of the first requirements of a jumper or cable installation is that
>there should not be any tension on the connector or the cable.  I daresay
>that any connector, whether crimp or clamp, that pulls apart did so because
>of tension.  DUH!  A proper cable or jumper installation does *not* subject
>its connectors to tension, so there should be no case of connectors pulling
>apart!
>
>As far as consistent results, I think it's a wash.  I recognize that an
>experienced craftsman can assemble and attach any connector consistently,
>time after time.  But, time is money.  I can install a crimp-type male N
>connector on a given type of cable in perhaps 1/2 or 1/3 the time it takes
>to install a MIL-spec clamp connector.  On a complex job, this disparity
may
>amount to several hours.  If the project engineer knows that a high-quality
>crimp connector is just as reliable as a high-quality clamp connector, he
or
>she will make the right choice.  Since the N connector is a
>constant-impedance design, there should not be any impedance "bump" seen on
>a VNA, regardless of whether it is attached by crimp or by clamp means.
>
>I will admit that a crimp N connector is not waterproof to the degree that
a
>MIL-clamp N connector is, but I don't install crimp N connectors outdoors
>without a multiple overwrap of bi-seal tape.  The final installation is
>absolutely waterproof and reliable, as evidenced by several decades of
>performance.  I happen to prefer silver/gold connectors made by RF
>Industries, but equally reliable crimp connectors are made by Amphenol,
>Delta, Huber+Suhner, and others.
>
>73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
>
>
>-Original Message-
>From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Q
>Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 4:53 AM
>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Loss through adaptors:
>
>I have issues with crimp-on connectors. I have seen too many of them 
>pull apart when used as pigtails to tower mounted antennas.I have also 
>seen the braid break right at the crimp. Blame i

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Crimp versus Clamp Connectors

[Glenn Little WB4UIV]

How did the installer get the braid ring installed backwards? In all of the 
Type-N connectors that I have installed on RG-214, The braid ring is 
relived so that it seats at the end of the insulation with the braid coming 
through and being fanned out. The person that installed the braid ring 
backwards could not have read any installation instructions for the 
connector. I sure would not want them doing ANY work for me.

I have not had a Type-N connector fail, that I installed, due to braid 
fatigue. I have seen some sloppy installs. The center pin set to the wrong 
depth, destroying the female connector on first mate. I have even seen a 
Type-N connector with an attempt having been made to solder the braid to 
the braid ring.

Where do these idiots come from??

73
Glenn
WB4UIV

At 09:10 PM 02/01/06, you wrote:
>Tony,
>
>You are absolutely correct.  It amazes me that anyone would install that
>component backwards, but some idiots do just that.  I and many others have
>seen it happen.  My statement would have been clearer, had I emphasized that
>excessive torque on the clamping nut will extrude the shield braid to the
>point that it is severely weakened.  Any tension or side-to-side movement
>will almost certainly break the braid and allow the feedline to pull right
>out of the connector.
>
>I stand by my statement that a *proper* installation of any feedline or
>antenna connector should not have *any* tension imposed upon it, and should
>not allow *any* side to side movement of the cable at the connector.
>Whether a clamp type or a crimp type connector is resistant to flapping
>around in the winds of Montana is irrelevant; that connection should be
>secured so that it does not move!
>
>The posters who described instances of cables breaking at the shield crimp
>(or clamp) should, perhaps, be correcting their installations so that the
>cable has neither tension nor the possibility of movement.  I submit that,
>if the above two conditions are met, braid breakage or separation cannot
>occur.  When properly installed and waterproofed, the method of attachment
>should have little influence on the longterm reliability.  As always, YMMV.
>
>73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
>
>
>-Original Message-
>From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tony King, W4ZT
>Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 6:47 AM
>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Crimp versus Clamp Connectors
>
>
>Every Mil-spec clamp type N connector I have ever made put the knife
>edge towards the red gasket material, not the braid. See the scan of an
>original instruction sheet: 
>
>73, Tony W4ZT
>






 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Crimp versus Clamp Connectors

[Eric Lemmon]

Tony,

You are absolutely correct.  It amazes me that anyone would install that
component backwards, but some idiots do just that.  I and many others have
seen it happen.  My statement would have been clearer, had I emphasized that
excessive torque on the clamping nut will extrude the shield braid to the
point that it is severely weakened.  Any tension or side-to-side movement
will almost certainly break the braid and allow the feedline to pull right
out of the connector.

I stand by my statement that a *proper* installation of any feedline or
antenna connector should not have *any* tension imposed upon it, and should
not allow *any* side to side movement of the cable at the connector.
Whether a clamp type or a crimp type connector is resistant to flapping
around in the winds of Montana is irrelevant; that connection should be
secured so that it does not move!

The posters who described instances of cables breaking at the shield crimp
(or clamp) should, perhaps, be correcting their installations so that the
cable has neither tension nor the possibility of movement.  I submit that,
if the above two conditions are met, braid breakage or separation cannot
occur.  When properly installed and waterproofed, the method of attachment
should have little influence on the longterm reliability.  As always, YMMV.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY


-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tony King, W4ZT
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 6:47 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Crimp versus Clamp Connectors


Every Mil-spec clamp type N connector I have ever made put the knife 
edge towards the red gasket material, not the braid. See the scan of an 
original instruction sheet: 

73, Tony W4ZT




 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Crimp versus Clamp Connectors

[Brett]

I have never had a clamp up style connector cut the braid.
All the connectors I use on pro installs are clamp up style and never a 
joiner, adapter in sight. I was taught that if you don't the correct 
connector GET ONE no adaptors ever. This maybe is an old idea but for 30 
years has worked for me.
P.S. justhad a look at the duplexer pics on W4ZT and spied a Eastpenn gel 
battery these I use for back up power.
Cheers from down under
Brett

- Original Message - 
From: "Tony King, W4ZT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 10:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Crimp versus Clamp Connectors


> Eric Lemmon wrote:
>> Lee,
>>
>> I appreciate your comments, but I can rebut them easily.  I have seen too
>> many clamp-type connectors pull apart, usually because they were
>> over-tightened during assembly.  Take a close look at a MIL-spec 
>> clamp-type
>> N connector, and you can see that the knife-edge component can slice 
>> right
>> through the braid if the nut is over-tightened, allowing the cable and 
>> the
>> center conductor to pull right out of the connector. 
>
> Every Mil-spec clamp type N connector I have ever made put the knife
> edge towards the red gasket material, not the braid. See the scan of an
> original instruction sheet: 
>
> 73, Tony W4ZT
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> 





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Crimp versus Clamp Connectors

[Neil McKie]

  Never forget  MIL-TDD-41 ... 

  Neil - WA6KLA





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: no-screw mic clip?

[Neil McKie]

  Those too. 

  Neil 

Ken Arck wrote:
> 
> At 09:10 AM 2/1/2006 -0800, you wrote:
> >  I have several different types of mic hang-up clips you can use
> > ... I'll even let you use my electric drill to drill the holes to
> > mount it too.
> 
> <---Heh I bet genuine Batwing hangup boxes, complete with slide
> switches, eh?
> 
> Ken
> ---
> President and CTO - Arcom Communications
> Makers of the world famous RC210 Repeater Controller and accessories.
> http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
> Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
> we offer complete repeater packages!
> AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
> http://www.irlp.net
>





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Power transistors

[Captainlance]

Anyone know what the interchange is for M9995 power 
transistors used in Micor   uhf PAs like the TLE1713?
Thanks...
lance N2HBA













  




  
  
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[Repeater-Builder] Re> Mic hangup clip installation

[albemarle7]

Velcro, foam tape and any type of glue just don't do it. Come 
summertime the heat build makes the glue soft and the weight from the mic pulls 
the clip away from the plastic dashboard. Outgassing of the plastic dashboard 
and glue is a problem also. My solution is the get your new mic clip 
you bought from the local truck stop and make up a thin metal plate. Look 
for a partition between two items on the dashboard and slightly pry it apart, 
jam the end of the little metal plate (which should have a slight curve on the 
opposite end from the mic clip) between the dashboard partition. 
 Been mounting mobile mic clips this way for years and never 
have a problem. Look for a horizontal partition slot. The fabricated thin plate 
should look like a "J" when viewed from the edge. 
Gary K2UQ
 













  




  
  
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Crimp versus Clamp Connectors

[Q]

There is no "knife edge" against the braid,it is a clamping type 
connector that the braid folds over a stepped insert.
 I will relate my experience with crimp connectors when we decided to 
try them for the first time. We had put 22 antennas up on a 500' Rohn 65 
tower with crimped on connectors on all the pigtails and 11 of them 
failed within a month. They had pulled out or had broken the shield 
braid at the crimp. We did a little non-scientific stress test on crimp 
vs. clamp pigtails by suspending a weight from the cable ,adding more 
until they failed. The clamp type took THREE TIMES as much weight before 
it let go.We also did a flex test and the crimp braid failed long before 
the clamp one did. That was all I needed to see to change my mind! All 
were replaced with mil-spec clamp style connectors and are all still in 
service 20 years after the fact. Company policy was implemented that 
required all outdoor connectors be mil-spec clamp type Amphenols at all 
303 company tower sites. Now maybe you can get away with crimps on some 
sites,but not up north on the Great Lakes where winds are tough and ice 
is common. You quickly learn what works and what doesnt and you will 
NEVER convice me to use crimp on connectors again! I guess I'm old and 
set in my ways,for good reason   73,Lee

Eric Lemmon wrote:

>Lee,
>
>I appreciate your comments, but I can rebut them easily.  I have seen too
>many clamp-type connectors pull apart, usually because they were
>over-tightened during assembly.  Take a close look at a MIL-spec clamp-type
>N connector, and you can see that the knife-edge component can slice right
>through the braid if the nut is over-tightened, allowing the cable and the
>center conductor to pull right out of the connector.  That seldom, if ever,
>happens with a properly-applied crimp connector.  Moreover, how often do you
>see a technician use a torque wrench to tighten the nut, per instructions?
>Most cable techs just wrench the nut until it doesn't move any more- and
>that's exactly where the faulty installation occurs.  When the proper
>crimper is used, that cannot occur with a crimp connector.
>
>One of the first requirements of a jumper or cable installation is that
>there should not be any tension on the connector or the cable.  I daresay
>that any connector, whether crimp or clamp, that pulls apart did so because
>of tension.  DUH!  A proper cable or jumper installation does *not* subject
>its connectors to tension, so there should be no case of connectors pulling
>apart!
>
>As far as consistent results, I think it's a wash.  I recognize that an
>experienced craftsman can assemble and attach any connector consistently,
>time after time.  But, time is money.  I can install a crimp-type male N
>connector on a given type of cable in perhaps 1/2 or 1/3 the time it takes
>to install a MIL-spec clamp connector.  On a complex job, this disparity may
>amount to several hours.  If the project engineer knows that a high-quality
>crimp connector is just as reliable as a high-quality clamp connector, he or
>she will make the right choice.  Since the N connector is a
>constant-impedance design, there should not be any impedance "bump" seen on
>a VNA, regardless of whether it is attached by crimp or by clamp means.
>
>I will admit that a crimp N connector is not waterproof to the degree that a
>MIL-clamp N connector is, but I don't install crimp N connectors outdoors
>without a multiple overwrap of bi-seal tape.  The final installation is
>absolutely waterproof and reliable, as evidenced by several decades of
>performance.  I happen to prefer silver/gold connectors made by RF
>Industries, but equally reliable crimp connectors are made by Amphenol,
>Delta, Huber+Suhner, and others.
>
>73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
>
>
>-Original Message-
>From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Q
>Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 4:53 AM
>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Loss through adaptors:
>
>I have issues with crimp-on connectors. I have seen too many of them 
>pull apart when used as pigtails to tower mounted antennas.I have also 
>seen the braid break right at the crimp. Blame it on improper crimping 
>or the human element or whatever,but I will use the clamp style 
>connectors. I seem to be able to get more consistent results and better 
>mechanical strength. I agree with all the other points and will add 
>proper weatherproofing to outside connections with vapor wrap and Scotch 
>tape topped off with Scotchkote. 28 years with a large RCC taught me 
>what works and what doesnt,lessons learned the hard way are not soon 
>forgotten!   73,Lee,N3APP
>
>
>  
>
>  
>




 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: no-screw mic clip?

[Ken Arck]

At 09:10 AM 2/1/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>  I have several different types of mic hang-up clips you can use 
> ... I'll even let you use my electric drill to drill the holes to 
> mount it too. 

<---Heh I bet genuine Batwing hangup boxes, complete with slide
switches, eh?

Ken
--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of the world famous RC210 Repeater Controller and accessories.
http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net




 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: OT: no-screw mic clip?

[Neil McKie]

  Ten - Four ... 

  Neil 

Ken Arck wrote:
> 
> At 11:39 AM 2/1/2006 -0500, you wrote:
> 
> >Course we also usually tell customers to leave the mount on the 
> >vehicle when they get rid of it. Mostly.
> 
> <---That's what I've always done in the past.
> 
> BTW, Dave's suggestion of checking a truck stop for the hangup clip 
> was a good one. I found exactly what I was looking for at a local 
> one.
> 
> Ken
> 
> --
> President and CTO - Arcom Communications
> Makers of the world famous RC210 Repeater Controller and accessories.
> http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
> Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
> we offer complete repeater packages!
> AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
> http://www.irlp.net
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: OT: no-screw mic clip?

[Neil McKie]

  The term NMO was created by Larsen Electronics a number of years 
 ago ... meaning New MOtorola ... 

  The mount you are referring to is the Motorola TAB/TAC/TAD/TAE/TAF 
 Series mounts - the last letter is determined by the frequency band 
 of antenna you are planning to use. 

  Neil McKie - WA6KLA   


Ken Arck wrote:
> 
> At 04:23 PM 2/1/2006 -, you wrote:
> >We carry a mount that results in the motorola nmo
> >equivalent, but requires a smaller hole (about
> >5/8").  I used to call it the Larsen Hole style
> >mount, but many other mfgrs offer it.
> 
>  
> Ken
> 
> President and CTO - Arcom Communications
> Makers of the world famous RC210 Repeater Controller and accessories.
> http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
> Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
> we offer complete repeater packages!
> AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
> http://www.irlp.net
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: no-screw mic clip?

[Neil McKie]

  Give it up Ken. 

  I have several different types of mic hang-up clips you can use 
 ... I'll even let you use my electric drill to drill the holes to 
 mount it too. 

  Neil 

Ken Arck wrote:
> 
> I just bought a new car and while I wasted no time in punching a 
> 3/4" hole for an NMO mount (my non-ham friends were amazed I'd do 
> that within hours of getting the car  home), I'm trying to avoid 
> drilling holes in the dash to mount a mic hangup clip.
> 
> Years ago, I remember someone made such a beast that was molded 
> plastic and double-sided tape on the back. But no one seems to 
> remember such a beast.
> 
> Anyone know of one still available? Google was kinda useless
> 
> Ken
> -
> President and CTO - Arcom Communications
> Makers of the world famous RC210 Repeater Controller and accessories.
> http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
> Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
> we offer complete repeater packages!
> AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
> http://www.irlp.net
>





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: OT: no-screw mic clip?

[Ken Arck]

At 04:23 PM 2/1/2006 -, you wrote:
>We carry a mount that results in the motorola nmo 
>equivalent, but requires a smaller hole (about 
>5/8").  I used to call it the Larsen Hole style 
>mount, but many other mfgrs offer it. 

 To visit your group on the web, go to:
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: OT: no-screw mic clip?

[Ken Arck]

At 11:39 AM 2/1/2006 -0500, you wrote:

>Course we also usually tell customers to leave the mount on the vehicle 
>when they get rid of it. Mostly.

<---That's what I've always done in the past. 

BTW, Dave's suggestion of checking a truck stop for the hangup clip was a
good one. I found exactly what I was looking for at a local one.

Ken

--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of the world famous RC210 Repeater Controller and accessories.
http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net




 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: no-screw mic clip?

[Chuck Kelsey]

Try velcro.

Chuck
 >WB2EDV




Ken Arck wrote:

>I just bought a new car and while I wasted no time in punching a 3/4" hole
>for an NMO mount (my non-ham friends were amazed I'd do that within hours
>of getting the car  home), I'm trying to avoid drilling holes in the dash
>to mount a mic hangup clip.
>
>Years ago, I remember someone made such a beast that was molded plastic and
>double-sided tape on the back. But no one seems to remember such a beast.
>
>Anyone know of one still available? Google was kinda useless
>
>Ken
>--
>President and CTO - Arcom Communications
>Makers of the world famous RC210 Repeater Controller and accessories.
>http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
>Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
>we offer complete repeater packages!
>AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
>http://www.irlp.net
>
>
>
>
> 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>  
>





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: OT: no-screw mic clip?

[Jim B.]

skipp025 wrote:

> We carry a mount that results in the motorola nmo 
> equivalent, but requires a smaller hole (about 
> 5/8").  I used to call it the Larsen Hole style 
> mount, but many other mfgrs offer it. 

Course we also usually tell customers to leave the mount on the vehicle 
when they get rid of it. Mostly.

-- 
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: OT: no-screw mic clip?

[skipp025]

We carry a mount that results in the motorola nmo 
equivalent, but requires a smaller hole (about 
5/8").  I used to call it the Larsen Hole style 
mount, but many other mfgrs offer it. 

We carry rubber hole plugs for both hole sizes 
(but they really sell out fast...)  People come 
in and buy them for other applications.. don't 
ask. 

Some of the newer antenna mounts have near true 
impedance through 900MHz vs the bump provided 
by some of the earlier legacy nmo and equiv mounts. 

Some times you've just gotta' use the drill. 

cheers,
skipp 
skipp025 at yahoo.com 
www.radiowrench.com 

> "Jim B." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > I just bought a new car and while I wasted no time in punching a 3/4"
> > hole
> > for an NMO mount (my non-ham friends were amazed I'd do that within
> > hours
> > of getting the car  home), 
> 
> I wind up telling them that fixing a 3/4" hole in the roof is actually 
> cheaper to do then repairing the scratch and rust damage from a mag
mount...
> 
> -- 
> Jim Barbour
> WD8CHL
>







 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: no-screw mic clip?

[Jim B.]

> I just bought a new car and while I wasted no time in punching a 3/4"
> hole
> for an NMO mount (my non-ham friends were amazed I'd do that within
> hours
> of getting the car  home), 

I wind up telling them that fixing a 3/4" hole in the roof is actually 
cheaper to do then repairing the scratch and rust damage from a mag mount...

-- 
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Loss through adaptors:

[skipp025]

Keep in mind the early brown connector insulator is 
hydroscopic, so yes... it might act like wet toilet 
paper. 
skipp 

> "Laryn Lohman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> What are they using, wet toilet paper for dielectric?
> Laryn K8TVZ
>
> > I've seen barrel connectors with 3 db loss at 150 MHz. 
> > ron
> >







 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Crimp versus Clamp Connectors

[DCFluX]

I just salvaged some silver amphenol BNCs and this was the case.On 2/1/06, Tony King, W4ZT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:Eric Lemmon wrote:> Lee,>> I appreciate your comments, but I can rebut them easily.  I have seen too
> many clamp-type connectors pull apart, usually because they were> over-tightened during assembly.  Take a close look at a MIL-spec clamp-type> N connector, and you can see that the knife-edge component can slice right
> through the braid if the nut is over-tightened, allowing the cable and the> center conductor to pull right out of the connector. Every Mil-spec clamp type N connector I have ever made put the knife
edge towards the red gasket material, not the braid. See the scan of anoriginal instruction sheet: 73, Tony W4ZT
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: mods.dk (possiably OT)

[ve7ltd]

I have an even better solution:

Use the "WayBack Machine" at www.archive.org

An example:
http://web.archive.org/web/20040622203623/mods.dk/view.php?ArticleId=2942

This server archives the internet, and has very good archives of
mods.dk, including a lot of the manuals, and simple mods. There is no
limit, as it uses the code from the old site.

David Cameron
VE7LTD








 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: no-screw mic clip?

[dalite01]

Check your local truck-stop (I kid you not).  

You would be amazed at what they carry for 2-way accessories that is
non-license class specific..

David
KD4NUE


-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Arck
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 10:23 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT: no-screw mic clip?

I just bought a new car and while I wasted no time in punching a 3/4"
hole
for an NMO mount (my non-ham friends were amazed I'd do that within
hours
of getting the car  home), I'm trying to avoid drilling holes in the
dash
to mount a mic hangup clip.

Years ago, I remember someone made such a beast that was molded plastic
and
double-sided tape on the back. But no one seems to remember such a
beast.

Anyone know of one still available? Google was kinda useless

Ken






 
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[Repeater-Builder] OT: no-screw mic clip?

[Ken Arck]

I just bought a new car and while I wasted no time in punching a 3/4" hole
for an NMO mount (my non-ham friends were amazed I'd do that within hours
of getting the car  home), I'm trying to avoid drilling holes in the dash
to mount a mic hangup clip.

Years ago, I remember someone made such a beast that was molded plastic and
double-sided tape on the back. But no one seems to remember such a beast.

Anyone know of one still available? Google was kinda useless

Ken
--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of the world famous RC210 Repeater Controller and accessories.
http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net




 
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<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Crimp versus Clamp Connectors

[Tony King, W4ZT]

Eric Lemmon wrote:
> Lee,
> 
> I appreciate your comments, but I can rebut them easily.  I have seen too
> many clamp-type connectors pull apart, usually because they were
> over-tightened during assembly.  Take a close look at a MIL-spec clamp-type
> N connector, and you can see that the knife-edge component can slice right
> through the braid if the nut is over-tightened, allowing the cable and the
> center conductor to pull right out of the connector. 

Every Mil-spec clamp type N connector I have ever made put the knife 
edge towards the red gasket material, not the braid. See the scan of an 
original instruction sheet: 

73, Tony W4ZT




 
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[Repeater-Builder] F.S. Tower Lighting System

[Joel Mele]

I have a Flash Technology Dual-Medium intensity Tower Lighting 
System for Sale.
 
The system is appx 4 years old and includes 3
red/white flash beacons, 3 controllers and 6 side light 
markers.
 
I will be happy to describe the system in detail off list or 
telcon at 252-249-2344
 
Regards...Joel W4SLH













  




  
  
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