Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fiberglass antenna protective coating?

[mch]

Sounds like a StationMaster or Super StationMaster or Heavy Duty model.

The radials should be a fixed length from the factory, but I don't have
a set handy to measure.

As for whether they should be angled or not, again, that should be set
from the factory - some models were angled and some were not. From
memory, the ones that went straight out were 'vertical' while the ones
that sloped were horizontal so they could be bent.

Joe M.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> I have a Phelps-Dodge VHF antenna about 21'10" long.
> 
> Tell me about the three radials at the bottom.
> For the 2 meter band, what should the length be?
> 
> The NCG GP-6 antennas use about 19.5" long radials.
> 
> Should the radials be straight, like the GP-6, or angled down some degree(s)?
> 
> What should the length of the radials be, for a UHF band antenna?
> 
> 73's,
> Jim   Kh6jkg.





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fiberglass antenna protective coating?

[kh6jkg]

Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Thanks for your emails & information on Fiberglass antenna protective 
coating(s)?

I have a Phelps-Dodge VHF antenna about 21'10" long.

Tell me about the three radials at the bottom.
For the 2 meter band, what should the length be?

The NCG GP-6 antennas use about 19.5" long radials.

Should the radials be straight, like the GP-6, or angled down some degree(s)?

What should the length of the radials be, for a UHF band antenna?

73's,
Jim   Kh6jkg.

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Vertex VXR-5000

[Doug Zastrow]

Mike & Terry,
 
That RB web page pretty well covers it.  And 
it nicely details the Pin 13 advantage of being able to revert to 
stand-alone repeater operation when the DB-25 cable to the controller is 
unplugged.
 
Doug
 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Mike Morris 
  
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  
  Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 11:30 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Vertex 
  VXR-5000
  At 04:18 PM 03/23/06, you wrote:
  Terry, I've interfaced a Link Com Club Deluxe II 
to our Vertex VXR-5000.  It did not require any rewiring except for the 
verification of a Yaesu factory mod.  All interfacing was done via the 
DB-25 connector on the bottom panel. One nice benefit of interfacing via the 
accessory connector is the VXR-5000 will revert to a stand-alone repeater 
when the DB-25 is unplugged if configured properly. (Details omitted for 
brevity.) If 
you're interested in my notes please mail me off list at dzastrow -at- qwest 
-dot- net. And 
yes, our VXR-5000 does not include a factory 
  ID'er.If you have anything to add to the 
  procedure at < 
  http://www.repeater-builder.com/yaesu-vertex-standard/vx-5000-repeater-mods.html 
  > please let me know. That web page was put together from an  exchange 
  on this list over 18 months ago.Mike WA6ILQ














  




  
  
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Vertex VXR-5000

[Mike Morris]

At 04:18 PM 03/23/06, you wrote:

Terry,
 
I've interfaced a Link Com Club
Deluxe II to our Vertex VXR-5000.  It did not require any rewiring
except for the verification of a Yaesu factory mod.  All interfacing
was done via the DB-25 connector on the bottom panel.
 
One nice benefit of interfacing
via the accessory connector is the VXR-5000 will revert to a stand-alone
repeater when the DB-25 is unplugged if configured properly. (Details
omitted for brevity.)
 
If you're interested in my notes
please mail me off list at dzastrow -at- qwest -dot- net.
 
And yes, our VXR-5000 does not
include a factory ID'er.
If you have anything to add to the procedure at
<
http://www.repeater-builder.com/yaesu-vertex-standard/vx-5000-repeater-mods.html
> please let me know. That web page was put together from an 
exchange on this list over 18 months ago.
Mike WA6ILQ
















  




  
  
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr II Cabinet Stuff wanted

[n . mckie]

  Think I have the Motorola equivalent.  Interested in that? 

  Neil - WA6KLA 

 Original Message 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED],
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Mastr II Cabinet Stuff wanted
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 21:16:19 -0700

>Hi,
>I have a 6 foot GE cabinet and im looking for a panel for the top of
>it with metering on it.  Anyone have one laying around theyd part
>with
>?
>Thanks
>--Don Wisdom
>KD7WKF
>
>
>
>
> 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>






 
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[Repeater-Builder] Mastr II Cabinet Stuff wanted

[Don Wisdom]

Hi,
I have a 6 foot GE cabinet and im looking for a panel for the top of
it with metering on it.  Anyone have one laying around theyd part with
?
Thanks
--Don Wisdom
KD7WKF




 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Vertex VXR-5000

[Doug Zastrow]

Terry,
 
I've interfaced a Link Com Club Deluxe II to our Vertex 
VXR-5000.  It did not require any rewiring except for the verification of a 
Yaesu factory mod.  All interfacing was done via the DB-25 connector on the 
bottom panel.
 
One nice benefit of interfacing via the accessory connector is 
the VXR-5000 will revert to a stand-alone repeater when the DB-25 is unplugged 
if configured properly. (Details omitted for brevity.)
 
If you're interested in my notes please mail me off list at 
dzastrow -at- qwest -dot- net.
 
And yes, our VXR-5000 does not include a factory 
ID'er.
 
Lastly, the Pacific Research product really looks slick and it 
can't be beat for it's plug 'n play approach.  If it has all the features 
you need I'd vouch to say if Eric Lemmon is satisfied with it you couldn't 
go wrong.

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Terry Brown 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  
  Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 9:23 
  PM
  Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Vertex 
  VXR-5000
  I have one of the 5000's and i have a Link Controller that 
  never has interfaced correctly since I have had it.  Do you have to 
  rewire the 5000 in any manner other than when it came from the factory when 
  installing thr Pacific Research controller?  Eric Lemmon 
  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
  Mike,You're correct- the 
VXR-5000 controller did not include an ID-er. That'swhy I installed a 
Pacific Research RI-310 controller, which is stillperforming well after 
being in service for more than a decade.73, Eric Lemmon 
WB6FLY-Original Message-From: 
Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 3:43 
PMTo: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comSubject: Re: 
[Repeater-Builder] Vertex VXR-5000The VXR-5000 as far as I know 
didn't have its CWIDercan't find my service manual anywhere, 
Mike A N1KTDYahoo! Groups 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] DB222 Antenna

[Rob]

I've got a copy of that page downloaded on my computer. If anyone is 
interested in it, I'll email a copy. Contact me directly.

Its also cached in Google without the images:



- Rob ([EMAIL PROTECTED])



Paul Holm wrote:
> I had a site bookmarked where a fellow had done this mod to a 222 and had 
> done quite a bit of testing on how the modified antenna worked in comparison 
> to others.  His call is KC4FWC but his pages have disappeared.  The 
> technique was a SS bolt and nut through the end of each folded dipole.  No 
> changes to phasing lines.
> 
> Paul KC0HST
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Jay Urish" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 7:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] DB222 Antenna
> 
> 
> 
>>I saw a paper somewhere that described a mod using a long machine screw
>>through the bottom of each element..
>>
>>bzlljr wrote:
>>
>>>Has anyone modified an DB222 Antenna from 156mhz down to 146mhz?
>>>the matching cables are 35ohn(RG83?)The distance would have to be
>>>changed between the two elements & probably the 35ohm cable may have to
>>>be longer. May not be practical. Has anyone done it?
>>>
>>>Wesley AB8KD
>>>





 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Cushman CE-5

[n . mckie]

  Be careful for what you ask ... there are several different 
 manuals for the Cushman CE-5 ... depending on what the serial 
 number is of the instrument you have ... the wrong manual, the 
 wrong information. 

  Neil - WA6KLA 


 Original Message 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Cushman CE-5
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 19:50:15 -

>Does anyone have a pdf of the manual for a CE-5? How about a service 
>manual? The signal generator of mine seems to have become sick, the 
>tone audio sounds almost like its motorboating, but the 1k tone is 
>clean coming right out of the unit. The Signal level is way down as 
>well. Any Ideas?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Tom
>W9SRV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>






 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] GE DRC-200

[Vincent Caruso]

Dan,

It will go in to the ham band with some tuning, If i remember correctly 
the software allows you to enter ham frequencies with no problems,  it 
dose have an internal controller with 15 users on ccts or dcs or a 
combination of.  The controller dose have CWID and courtesy tone 
capability and there is a  DB15 connector on the back that allows you to 
interface external controllers, links etc...

Vince

Dan wrote:
> Can anyone give me some info on this repeater? Is it programmable into 
> the ham bands? Does it have a internal controller with ID? Any info 
> would be wonderful.
> 
> Thanks for your time.
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
















  




  
  
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[Repeater-Builder] GE DRC-200

[Dan]

Can anyone give me some info on this repeater? Is it programmable into 
the ham bands? Does it have a internal controller with ID? Any info 
would be wonderful.

Thanks for your time.

Dan








 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] DB222 Antenna

[Paul Holm]

I had a site bookmarked where a fellow had done this mod to a 222 and had 
done quite a bit of testing on how the modified antenna worked in comparison 
to others.  His call is KC4FWC but his pages have disappeared.  The 
technique was a SS bolt and nut through the end of each folded dipole.  No 
changes to phasing lines.

Paul KC0HST


- Original Message - 
From: "Jay Urish" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] DB222 Antenna


>I saw a paper somewhere that described a mod using a long machine screw
> through the bottom of each element..
>
> bzlljr wrote:
>> Has anyone modified an DB222 Antenna from 156mhz down to 146mhz?
>> the matching cables are 35ohn(RG83?)The distance would have to be
>> changed between the two elements & probably the 35ohm cable may have to
>> be longer. May not be practical. Has anyone done it?
>>
>> Wesley AB8KD
>>





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need IC SN79273N for MSF5000

[Mathew Quaife]

Two chips and the cap shipped to my door come to $18.71, so was not to bad.     Mathew  "Bob M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Dare I ask how much they stole from you for that IC?Bob M.==--- Mathew Quaife wrote:> I called Motorola, they had them, so I just ordered> it from them, got two of them, and then went ahead> and got a spare C706 cap, they tossed in the> shipping, should have them tomorrow. Maybe a bit> more than they should cost, but at least they are> coming, and I should have this pup on the air in the> next few days. Thanks.> > Mathew> > > "Bob M." wrote:> I sent this yesterday:> > The IC is probably an RC4136N. That's what they
 use> on> the digital-capable board; the circuit is similar> and> it's in the same location (U1551) too. These are> available at Jameco for a whole $0.68, or Mouser for> $1.20. Motorola, if they have any to sell, probably> would want $10 each. Definitely not worth that much.> > It's a quad op-amp, and almost any one will do. The> TI> part number is probably cross-reference-able> somehow.> > Bob M.> ==> --- n9lv wrote:> > > If anyone has a few of these lying around, or> knows> > of a source for > > them, I need one to fix my MSF5000 repeater and a> > spare. Thanks.> > > > Mathew> > N9LV__Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups
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[Repeater-Builder] DB222

[wa9ba]

I modified a DB224 about 6 years ago from 15x.xxx to our repeater 
pair of 144.890 / 145.490. I added 1 5/8 inches of tubing to each 
loop. Noting was done to the harness and it worked pretty well for 5 
years. Last fall, we were getting noise and it was decided the club 
would buy a new DB224 to see if that would end some problems. It 
did, I think some crud built up between the tubing I added and the 
original loops. A little cleaning and some grease and I'll bet tit 
would be good for another 5 years. On a side note, the new DB224 was 
cut for the ham bands and the mast is about 3 feet longer and each 
loop about 4 inches longer that the old ones, even after lengthening 
them. I would add another 2 inches and use an analyser to see what 
happened, you could always cut them shorter, but you know--- they 
won't strech!
Bill WA9BA
Message: 3 
   Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 19:18:37 -0600
   From: Jay Urish <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: DB222 Antenna

I saw a paper somewhere that described a mod using a long machine 
screw 
through the bottom of each element..

bzlljr wrote:
> Has anyone modified an DB222 Antenna from 156mhz down to 146mhz?
> the matching cables are 35ohn(RG83?)The distance would have to be 
> changed between the two elements & probably the 35ohm cable may 
have to 
> be longer. May not be practical. Has anyone done it?
> 
> Wesley AB8KD








 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need IC SN79273N for MSF5000

[Bob M.]

Dare I ask how much they stole from you for that IC?

Bob M.
==
--- Mathew Quaife <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I called Motorola, they had them, so I just ordered
> it from them, got two of them, and then went ahead
> and got a spare C706 cap, they tossed in the
> shipping, should have them tomorrow.  Maybe a bit
> more than they should cost, but at least they are
> coming, and I should have this pup on the air in the
> next few days.  Thanks.
>
>   Mathew
>   
> 
> "Bob M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>   I sent this yesterday:
> 
> The IC is probably an RC4136N. That's what they use
> on
> the digital-capable board; the circuit is similar
> and
> it's in the same location (U1551) too. These are
> available at Jameco for a whole $0.68, or Mouser for
> $1.20. Motorola, if they have any to sell, probably
> would want $10 each. Definitely not worth that much.
> 
> It's a quad op-amp, and almost any one will do. The
> TI
> part number is probably cross-reference-able
> somehow.
> 
> Bob M.
> ==
> --- n9lv wrote:
> 
> > If anyone has a few of these lying around, or
> knows
> > of a source for 
> > them, I need one to fix my MSF5000 repeater and a
> > spare. Thanks.
> > 
> > Mathew
> > N9LV

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Cushman CE-5

[Stephen Rice]

I am looking for one as well ! Or a schematic as my tone generator stopped 
on my CE-5.
Thanks Steve

- Original Message - 
From: "tgundo2003" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2006 2:50 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Cushman CE-5


> Does anyone have a pdf of the manual for a CE-5? How about a service
> manual? The signal generator of mine seems to have become sick, the
> tone audio sounds almost like its motorboating, but the 1k tone is
> clean coming right out of the unit. The Signal level is way down as
> well. Any Ideas?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Tom
> W9SRV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
> 





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need IC SN79273N for MSF5000

[Mathew Quaife]

I called Motorola, they had them, so I just ordered it from them, got two of them, and then went ahead and got a spare C706 cap, they tossed in the shipping, should have them tomorrow.  Maybe a bit more than they should cost, but at least they are coming, and I should have this pup on the air in the next few days.  Thanks.     Mathew  "Bob M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  I sent this yesterday:The IC is probably an RC4136N. That's what they use onthe digital-capable board; the circuit is similar andit's in the same location (U1551) too. These areavailable at Jameco for a whole $0.68, or Mouser for$1.20. Motorola, if they have any to sell, probablywould want $10 each. Definitely not worth that much.It's a quad op-amp, and almost any one will do. The TIpart
 number is probably cross-reference-able somehow.Bob M.==--- n9lv wrote:> If anyone has a few of these lying around, or knows> of a source for > them, I need one to fix my MSF5000 repeater and a> spare. Thanks.> > Mathew> N9LV__Do You Yahoo!?Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Need IC SN79273N for MSF5000

[Bob M.]

I sent this yesterday:

The IC is probably an RC4136N. That's what they use on
the digital-capable board; the circuit is similar and
it's in the same location (U1551) too. These are
available at Jameco for a whole $0.68, or Mouser for
$1.20. Motorola, if they have any to sell, probably
would want $10 each. Definitely not worth that much.

It's a quad op-amp, and almost any one will do. The TI
part number is probably cross-reference-able somehow.

Bob M.
==
--- n9lv <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> If anyone has a few of these lying around, or knows
> of a source for 
> them, I need one to fix my MSF5000 repeater and a
> spare.  Thanks.
> 
> Mathew
> N9LV

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[Repeater-Builder] Need IC SN79273N for MSF5000

[n9lv]

If anyone has a few of these lying around, or knows of a source for 
them, I need one to fix my MSF5000 repeater and a spare.  Thanks.

Mathew
N9LV








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Cushman CE-5

[tgundo2003]

Does anyone have a pdf of the manual for a CE-5? How about a service 
manual? The signal generator of mine seems to have become sick, the 
tone audio sounds almost like its motorboating, but the 1k tone is 
clean coming right out of the unit. The Signal level is way down as 
well. Any Ideas?

Thanks!

Tom
W9SRV







 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Folded Dipoles for 6m Repeaters; Stacking for Gain?

[Tony Faiola]

Hello Robin:

We have modified some used Decibel Products low band dipoles of 
different sizes and fabricated a phasing harness to provide us with an 
approximate 3 db gain omni directional 6 meter antenna.

These three modified dipoles are on each side face of a three leg self 
supporting 200 foot tower.

We are still in the testing stage of this system, however you can check 
our web site to see pictures of it.   The 
site is new, so we are still in the process of updating it.  We will 
eventually include the design parameters for the three face three dipole 
type 6 meter antenna.

Tony, K3WX
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Robin Midgett wrote:
> Hi,
> I'm interested in learning from anyone with experience in stacking 
> folded dipoles for gain on a 6m repeater. I have privileges at a few 
> 200'+ towers in Tn, so there's plenty of room for arrays. (former 
> AT&T long lines sites)
> Does anyone on the list have pearls of wisdom they'd like to share on 
> this subject?
> 
> Thanks,
> Robin Midgett K4IDC
> 615-322-5836 office - rolls to pager
> 615-835-7699 pager
> 615-301-1642 home
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.people.vanderbilt.edu/~robin.midgett/index.htm  







 
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[anwarxtpm] (Chase) Account 64856696 Client's Details Confirmation

[Chase Bank]

  

  


  
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Fiberglass antenna protective coating?

[na6df]

Thanks for all the info. I'll figure something out.

By the way, the new antenna was only $119 from AES, and seems much 
better built than the imports. They list the FG1440 at 0db gain, but 
they have some gain models too. In our case, 0db gain is perfect, as 
we have a lot of low spots to fill (cal north coast area). Just 
rying to lengthen the lifespan a bit, so we don't have to climb the 
big stick again anytime soon.

Thanks to all..

na6df

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> At 02:58 PM 03/22/06, you wrote:
> >I have a shiny new Antennex FG1440 2 meter repeater antenna, and I
> >thought that before we install it on the tower, maybe I should 
put an
> >additional protective coating on over the fiberglass. Looking for
> >something that would not get brittle and crack off any time soon. 
Any
> >ideas? Urethane maybe? I once used some urethane designed as a
> >marine finish with great results, but I'm open to suggestions..
> >
> >Thanks,
> >dave na6df
> 
> One local guy is using a double layer of white heat shrink.  Went 
up
> about 3-4 months ago. Dunno how it's going to stand up to to summer
> sunlight / UV.
> 
> The outside gelcoat is what gives fiberglass its watertight 
properties.
> Too many antennas have "died" after the fiberglass allowed rain 
water
> ingress.
> 
> Be very careful that whatever you use is either clear or has a NON-
> METALLIC pigment, for example, many white paints get the color
> from titanium dioxide, a metal.
> Black is OK as the color comes from lampblack(carbon) and won't
> detune the antenna.
> 
> (local urban legend comes to mind - a  ham, never identified, uses
> white fiberglass boat paint on his short stationmaster antenna,
> then wonders where the signal went... finds out the white pigment
> is metallic... realizes that he just put a shielding coating on the
> radiating element and ended using the antenna as a very expensive
> plant stake)
> 
> If you have a body shop in your area that specializes in fiberglass
> work (look under "Corvette" in the yellow pages) I'd start there.
> If you live in a maritime area, look for boat shops that specialize
> in fiberglass.
> 
> A number of years ago a local ham took a super stationmaster
> that was shedding to a local body shop and they did a very good
> job of resurfacing it.  He found the shop by an interesting
> method: one day he passed a late 1950s Corvette on the
> street and saw in his rear view mirror the 'vett pull into a
> fast food place. He drove around the block and pulled in, then
> walked into the place. A few minutes of talking to the 'vette
> owner and he had the name and location of a shop that did
> good fiberglass work.
> 
> He just told the shop manager that final cosmetics were
> not as important as something that was as good as the
> original coating... or better.  The antenna was 15 years old
> and it needed to last another 15. The manager promised to
> load the fiberglass outer coating up with lots of UV inhibitor.
> 
> Despite the comments about cosmetics they did a beautiful job
> of resurfacing the radome, coating it and applying a nice clear 
gell
> coat to the antenna, which, as I understand it, is still in 
service.
> 
> Personally, I would use what Celwave recommends even though it's
> about $150 a gallon. maybe more by now. This is a paint by Sherwin
> Williams, Polane Type "HS 2.8 Plus Polyurethane", along with the
> appropriate catalyst
> 
> Any good paint store should be able to get this, or its equivalent 
for
> you.  You can sometimes get quart samples for asking for them. If
> not, buy a quart (about $40). It will do two or three short 
antennas.
> But don't get the silver color...
> 
> If that's out of your price range, a good grade of urethane marine 
paint
> will _probably_ work just fine. A "painters mitt" will help apply 
it evenly.
> Just wear old clothes and if you can get it, put the mitt on over a
> elbow or shoulder length rubber glove (talk to your vet to get one
> or two - and I'm talking horse and cow vet, not a dog and cat vet).
> And you want to do it with old (read "disposable afterwards") 
clothes
> on, and on a warm day which means that you want to do it fast
> enough to get that damn glove off and let your arm breathe...
> Better to have a helper or two to help you manhandle the antennas,
> and a homebrew cradle to support them from the  ends only.
> No doubt that there are a few others around that need antennas
> coated - get enough paint to do all of them, split the cost between
> you guys and then they can be the helpers...
> 
> Mike Perryman K5JMP made a comment on this list back in 2003...
>  >If you use auto-body polyester resin, you will need to add a UV
>  >inhibitor.  If not, the surface will become very cloudy, and 
begin to chalk
>  >within a month or two.  In two years it will be just as before.
>  >Even a gel-coat will begin to chalk fairly quickly if it is used 
without
>  >the UV inhibitor.  Also ther

[Repeater-Builder] Folded Dipoles for 6m Repeaters; Stacking for Gain?

[Robin Midgett]

Hi,
I'm interested in learning from anyone with experience in stacking 
folded dipoles for gain on a 6m repeater. I have privileges at a few 
200'+ towers in Tn, so there's plenty of room for arrays. (former 
AT&T long lines sites)
Does anyone on the list have pearls of wisdom they'd like to share on 
this subject?

Thanks,
Robin Midgett K4IDC
615-322-5836 office - rolls to pager
615-835-7699 pager
615-301-1642 home
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.people.vanderbilt.edu/~robin.midgett/index.htm  





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Adding Bandpass Can to Duplexer

[ldgelectronics]

Bob,

I think you got it right on. Placing in random lengths of cables (out 
of the junk drawer) between the band pass and the duplexer got 
different results. 

Re-reading the VE2AZX duplexer theory paper on the Repeater-Builder 
web site verified that the cable should be shorter than a 1/4 
wavelength.

It seems it's pretty random on what the proper length should be 
depending on the can used. The PD-1173 can used a shorter jumper than 
a DB-4001 can. This is probably where the right angle connector trick 
would come into play.

Thanks for you input, that really helped track it down.

Dwayne Kincaid
WD8OYG


>
> I think the length of coax you use between that BP
> filter and the rest of the duplexer is critical.
> 
> I have a 900 MHz duplexer that has a BP filter and a
> BP/BR filter on each side. The BP filter gives me 25dB
> attenuation 25 MHz away, and the BP/BR gives me about
> 45dB. But when connected together with what seems to
> be a 1/2 wavelength coax, I get 90dB attenuation. The
> whole is greater than the sum of its parts, somehow.
> 
> I'd suggest trying a piece of coax that's the same
> length as what's being used now, which might be 1/4 or
> 1/2 wavelength, to couple your BP filter to the
> duplexer.
> 
> Bob M.
> ==
> --- ldgelectronics <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> 
> > This seems like a perplexing problem. Maybe someone
> > can point me in 
> > the right direction.
> > 
> > I have a TPD 1554, 4-can VHF duplexer. It provides
> > about 77 db of 
> > isolation with 1.4 db of loss. This is just about
> > what the spec says, 
> > so that all looks good.
> > 
> > I happen to have some extra PD-1173 VHF band pass
> > cans, so I'm 
> > thinking of adding a can on each side to get the
> > rejection up to 85 
> > db or so for use on a VHF repeater (Exec II base
> > station at 25 
> > watts). 
> > 
> > The bandpass can by its self shows about 0.5 db loss
> > and 8 db of 
> > rejection at 600 KHz. The curve on the spectrum
> > analyzer looks good 
> > and the return loss is very good (-40).
> > 
> > Here is where it gets messed up. I added a can on
> > the duplexer on the 
> > radio side (let's just say the RX side). The loss
> > goes up to 1.9 db 
> > as expected and the return loss is still good. But
> > when I go to 
> > measure the rejection, it now shows only 73 db. How
> > can this be?
> > 
> > Everything uses double sheilded cable and attenuator
> > pads are used on 
> > the input and output to the analyzer.
> > 
> > It seems like the rejection should be additive, but
> > for some reason 
> > it's not showing up that way. Anyone know why?
> > 
> > Dwayne Kincaid
> > WD8OYG
> 
> __
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Vertex VXR-5000

[Jim B.]

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Jim, unfortunately the vxr 5000 is just a dumb
> repeater. You'll need to run an outboard controller or
> install a simple IDer like the one listed below in the
> link.
> 
> "http://www.com-spec.com/insheet/id8insc.pdf";
> 
> Regards, Barry

That's surprising to me that Yaesu isn't putting ID'ers in their 
repeaters yet. Everybody else has had built-in ID'ers since about 1997 
or so. Earlier for many.

-- 
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Adding Bandpass Can to Duplexer

[Bob M.]

I think the length of coax you use between that BP
filter and the rest of the duplexer is critical.

I have a 900 MHz duplexer that has a BP filter and a
BP/BR filter on each side. The BP filter gives me 25dB
attenuation 25 MHz away, and the BP/BR gives me about
45dB. But when connected together with what seems to
be a 1/2 wavelength coax, I get 90dB attenuation. The
whole is greater than the sum of its parts, somehow.

I'd suggest trying a piece of coax that's the same
length as what's being used now, which might be 1/4 or
1/2 wavelength, to couple your BP filter to the
duplexer.

Bob M.
==
--- ldgelectronics <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> This seems like a perplexing problem. Maybe someone
> can point me in 
> the right direction.
> 
> I have a TPD 1554, 4-can VHF duplexer. It provides
> about 77 db of 
> isolation with 1.4 db of loss. This is just about
> what the spec says, 
> so that all looks good.
> 
> I happen to have some extra PD-1173 VHF band pass
> cans, so I'm 
> thinking of adding a can on each side to get the
> rejection up to 85 
> db or so for use on a VHF repeater (Exec II base
> station at 25 
> watts). 
> 
> The bandpass can by its self shows about 0.5 db loss
> and 8 db of 
> rejection at 600 KHz. The curve on the spectrum
> analyzer looks good 
> and the return loss is very good (-40).
> 
> Here is where it gets messed up. I added a can on
> the duplexer on the 
> radio side (let's just say the RX side). The loss
> goes up to 1.9 db 
> as expected and the return loss is still good. But
> when I go to 
> measure the rejection, it now shows only 73 db. How
> can this be?
> 
> Everything uses double sheilded cable and attenuator
> pads are used on 
> the input and output to the analyzer.
> 
> It seems like the rejection should be additive, but
> for some reason 
> it's not showing up that way. Anyone know why?
> 
> Dwayne Kincaid
> WD8OYG

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