RE: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws
The clips are called tinerman clips and I have found them at auto parts stores but I think they are a little spendey. They do come in different gauge (screw) sizes, I think the GE ones are #10. I have found them in bulk, but they are black and not silver. The model number is stamped on the tinerman clips. McMasters also might be for a source. Butch, KE7FEL/r To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 23:45:17 +Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws Hello Everyone,Does anybody have a source for the spring clips and screws for the rackmount cabinet rails.Either type (that was used with the GE and Motorola cabinets) will work. What few I have are used up and needing additional to mount more equipment.73 and thanks,DougN4TZD
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing instructions
It's very simple , obtain some self sealing rubber tape from an electrical supplier 1/ tighten as required for mechanical connection 2/ start from the coax wrapping the rubber tape towards the join over the joint and to the high end of the joint and coax with some over lap , the tape will seal and water wont gain entry . make sure the finish end is higher than the start easy huh ? Takes all of 40 seconds if your slow and careful To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 23:23:01 -0500 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing instructions Hello to the group: Recently there was a post on the proper way to seal inline coax connectors on a tower to make them weather resistant. As I recall, there was a response from one of the members that directed the original poster to a major antenna manufacturer which had instructions in a .pdf on how to seal everything using tape and sealant. Anyone recall the website? I'd like to download the .pdf into my archives for future reference. Any help is welcomed and appreciated. Thanks in advance. '73 Don, KD9PT _ Shout your Messenger buddies to the movies http://www.livelife.ninemsn.com.au/compIntro.aspx?compId=4590
[Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing instructions
Hello to the group: Recently there was a post on the proper way to seal inline coax connectors on a tower to make them weather resistant. As I recall, there was a response from one of the members that directed the original poster to a major antenna manufacturer which had instructions in a .pdf on how to seal everything using tape and sealant. Anyone recall the website? I'd like to download the .pdf into my archives for future reference. Any help is welcomed and appreciated. Thanks in advance. '73 Don, KD9PT
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tait 800 TXO Module
cisfuk wrote: > this is going to be a silly question to you lot but what is a TXO > module for Tait 800? thanks > Normally it would be TCXO or Temperature Compensated Crystal Oscillator. X is shorthand for crystal. On most T800s, the TCXO is 12.8MHz +/-2.5 ppm. Ed Yoho W6YJ
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws
Lowes has them also Ace - Original Message - From: souryatlexcomincdotnet To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 7:45 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws Hello Everyone, Does anybody have a source for the spring clips and screws for the rackmount cabinet rails. Either type (that was used with the GE and Motorola cabinets) will work. What few I have are used up and needing additional to mount more equipment. 73 and thanks, Doug N4TZD
[Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws
Hello Everyone, Does anybody have a source for the spring clips and screws for the rackmount cabinet rails. Either type (that was used with the GE and Motorola cabinets) will work. What few I have are used up and needing additional to mount more equipment. 73 and thanks, Doug N4TZD
[Repeater-Builder] Tait 800 TXO Module
this is going to be a silly question to you lot but what is a TXO module for Tait 800? thanks
[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE MASTR II PWR SUPPLY - What dies first?
Eric, You are right as rain. The PN is off the back of the 'sheet metal' case. Thanks for the tip on what to look for. I'll check this weekend and let you know results. 73 de Rich AF1K --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Lemmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Rich, > > Please re-check that part number- the number 19D436272G1 applies to some > sheet-metal parts, and not to any power supply, according to my GE > microfiche file. Regardless of the part number, your symptoms are typical > of a power supply in which one of the rectifier diodes has opened. You can > check this by using an oscilloscope to view the ripple on the output, when > the PA is transmitting. If all diodes are conducting, the ripple will be > 120 Hz; if not, the ripple will be 60 Hz. > > 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY > >
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Scanner as repeater receiver?
Much appreciated !! I'll pass the info on (though I think the guy is monitoring the list now hi hi !!) - Original Message - From: Nate Duehr To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 6:10 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Scanner as repeater receiver? Sorry, replying to myself... Another website about the USB dongles... http://app-rpt.qrvc.com/usbsoundfob.html Nate WY0X
RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question
John, Assuming that the output of the repeater and amp are clean. This would be my suggestions do this in order to avoid spending any more than needed. 1) Verify clean output from TX and amp. 2) Verify tuning on the duplexer. Both of these are most likely fine. 3) Replace all interconnect cables with ¼ of ½ superflex 4) Add circulator to the output of Amp (dual at least maybe even a triple) 5) Replace duplexer with something from this century. I read the post about the spur from adding a cavity to the tx output . the only way that should happed is if there is a problem in the amp in the 1st place. Any RF that makes it back through the transmit side of the duplexer can mix with your frequency and anything else that can get in there. An isolator is like an RF diode with a drain. Anything that comes toward your amp from the outside will be diverted into a dummy load (drain) to be burned off as heat. You did not say what frequency that you are operating on but how close in frequency are the nearest repeaters ? And example if is you are on 464.025 and there is another repeater on 464.050 then your duplexer no matter how good offers no protection itself that would be the isolators job. I hope this was helpful and while yes I do have some stuff available my post is to be helpful not sell stuff. Regards, Robert Mitchell From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Transue Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 11:37 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question First a big thank you to Eric, David, Rodney, and Robert. It seems clear now that a circulator is not what I need. I plan to re-tune a pass cavity and put it on the TX side as suggested by Eric. David has warned of the possibility that this can cause a spur that might interfere with another system so I will try to have a spectrum analyzer look at the output. Robert asked for some additional information. Here it is: RG-400 (new) in the cabinet, RG-214 (new) to the Heliax feed line. The RF environment is intense. I do not know what all is transmitting, but there are numerous antennas within 100 feet. The repeater is a Yaesu Musen FTR-5410. It drives a Mirage PA to about 90 watts. John Transue -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KD4PBC Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 7:50 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question John, A couple questions. What are you using for interconnect cables, antenna, feedline ? Tell us something about the RF environment Hostile or not ? What type of radio are you using ? That Motorola duplexer is a very poor duplexer. With all the holes in them after a few years they may generate more noise than the suppress. All interconnecting cables need to be superflex or some other solid shielded cable. Any RG type cable the braided shield becomes illuminated and will cause noise and if there is a non linear junction can produce intermod. Send me the details and I will try and make some suggestions. Robert / KD4PBC
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: SADL or EPLRS ?
Hi-An older engine that runs a mag? They need real wire,or loose the mag. Can't imagine anyone running one 24/7 HI HI. Have wisc. v/4 and it makes a lot of noise.Jerry --- On Thu, 8/21/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: SADL or EPLRS ? To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, August 21, 2008, 12:27 AM At 8/20/2008 17:18, you wrote: >wd8chl wrote: > > Nate Duehr wrote: > > > >> http://www.natetech .com/files/ EPLRSNoise. wav > >> > >> That's what it sounded like here. > >> > > > > heh-sounds like a car with bad spark plug wires...;c} Actually, what we get here is similar but not the same. The pulses aren't quite as frequent & are seemingly random (no discernable period, more like real popcorn). Bob NO6B
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Low Band Mitrek - WTB
At 03:24 AM 08/22/08, you wrote: Good Morning All, Would someone on the list have a working 10mtr Mitrek they would be willing to sell? If so could you please contact me off the list, my email address will be in the header. I have a couple and can not get them anywhere near the specs for a good RX, the best I can get is 1.8-2mV. Should mention I am looking for one for RX only, my TX radios are working great. Regards and Thanks Kevin. Check your injection level (one of the metering points) on the original frequency (with the original element), then with your 10 meter element. You may need to reorder the element for a high side injection. Mike WA6ILQ
[Repeater-Builder] Re: OK, this one is driving me nuts.... VXR-7000 (FIXED!!!) - see post bottom
> I put the 2 diodes in series and fed the gate a 2n7000 > FET with a pullup resistor on the drain and the source > to ground. The 2N7000 aka VN10KM device is an enhancement mode FET, which turns on around +3 vdc. You probably didn't need the two diodes in series. In a start from scratch circuit you might also consider adding a gate to source 15 V Zener Diode (cathode or banded end to the gate) in parallel with around a 470K resistor and a 220pf capacitor. The zener diode protects the gate from reverse & over-voltage, the resistor provides a gate to source potential bleed down path and the 220pf cap some RF bypassing. Some people (like myself) also like to put a low value resistance in series to the gate... say a 47 to 100 ohm resistor in place of one of your un-needed series diodes. You might also RF bypass the drain to ground using another 220pf cap and parallel a diode with the drain lead when controlling an external relay (for protection). A single common source FET circuit inverts the logic... low to high or high to low. If folks want/need same logic transition (change) in to out voltage swing they often follow the FET with another same (pretty much) exact device for another inverted logic circuit. Two series inverters equals same in to out logic transitions. If your repeater controller has a COR logic active high or active low choice... the second FET inverter follower is kind of silly unless you spec active low logic at each controller I/O locations. > I tied the gate of a second 2n7000 to the drain of the first, > the source to ground, and the drain through a pullup resistor > to 12v. For the life of me I could not figure out why I > wasn't getting the 1.4v drop across the two diodes. Then it > came to me, there is no current from the gate to source in a > FET. Yep, the FET can almost be considered an ideal device but you've got to pay attention to the details. An ideal gate lead path (high impedance) also makes a pretty darn good radio/RF antenna and (in the presence of radiated RF) you might find the circuit active for no obvious visual reason. > I put a resistor between the gate of the first FET and ground > (provided some current to pass through the diodes) and VOILA! > It worked like a champ! You might parallel a low value disc cap (say 220pf) and a diode with the resistor for added protection (as mentioned above). > I haven't played around much with FETs. I just got started > with them when a keyer I bought had a bad FET and I had to > troubleshoot it. Depending on what type of FET you buy... you might consider it a solid state triode tube less the heater supply and a different grid control voltage requirement. > Thanks for all of your help. The voltage at the COR input is > 0.00 volts when the correct pl is heard and the repeater > controller keys up just like it should. > 73, > Jerry Steele K8CMI Clap your hands up high and back away from the black-jack table with a smile on your face. Shift change... Congrads on getting your VXR-7000 to external repeater controller circuit working. Pretty much the same issues are involved with most all the other brands of equipment. cheers, s.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: OK, this one is driving me nuts.... VXR-7000 (FIXED!!!) - see post bottom
Maybe you could draw it up and post your circuit diagram in the files section? tom > [Original Message] > From: Jerry Steele <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Date: 8/22/2008 3:04:34 AM > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: OK, this one is driving me nuts VXR-7000 (FIXED!!!) - see post bottom >.
[Repeater-Builder] Low Band Mitrek - WTB
Good Morning All, Would someone on the list have a working 10mtr Mitrek they would be willing to sell? If so could you please contact me off the list, my email address will be in the header. I have a couple and can not get them anywhere near the specs for a good RX, the best I can get is 1.8-2mV. Should mention I am looking for one for RX only, my TX radios are working great. Regards and Thanks Kevin.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: OK, this one is driving me nuts.... VXR-7000 (FIXED!!!) - see post bottom
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > At 09:30 PM 08/19/08, you wrote: > >On the VXR-7000, the RJ45 pins 1 and 2 are the collector and emitter > >respectively of an optoisolator that changes state when the squelch is > >broken and the correct pl/dpl is used. www.jammerdave.com/vertex.html > >says to connect the pin 1 to the pl detect of the repeater controller > >and pin 2 to ground. He also says it is basically an open collector > >circuit. > > > >I tried step 1 and no luck. I then connected a 33k pullup resistor > >between 12v and pin 1. I took pin 2 to ground. I keyed the HT on the > >correct freq and pl and lo and behold, pin 1 dropped to ~1.3 volts. > >Problem is, my controller needs to see more like 0 volts. I looked in > >the service manual and it looks like there is a zener keeping pin 1 at > >1.3 volts or higher. > > > >Any ideas > > > >- Jerry K8CMI > > Two series diodes plus a 2.2 K resistor to the base of an NPN transistor. > Emitter grounded. > A 4.7 K resistor from the collector to +5vDC. > > The collector also feeds the input of your repeater controller. > > Then a writeup to repeater-builder > > Mike WA6ILQ > Well, using Mike's suggestion, a suggestion from the VXR-7000 group, and some playing around, I finally came up with a solution. Both suggestions were to use npn transistors, but I had some FETs laying around and I wanted to try those. Here is what I did... I put the 2 diodes in series and fed the gate a 2n7000 FET with a pullup resistor on the drain and the source to ground. I tied the gate of a second 2n7000 to the drain of the first, the source to ground, and the drain through a pullup resistor to 12v. For the life of me I could not figure out why I wasn't getting the 1.4v drop across the two diodes. Then it came to me, there is no current from the gate to source in a FET. I put a resistor between the gate of the first FET and ground (provided some current to pass through the diodes) and VOILA! It worked like a champ! I haven't played around much with FETs. I just got started with them when a keyer I bought had a bad FET and I had to troubleshoot it. Thanks for all of your help. The voltage at the COR input is 0.00 volts when the correct pl is heard and the repeater controller keys up just like it should. 73, Jerry Steele K8CMI
