[Repeater-Builder] Quantar Audio static
Hi Everyone, I have been tasked with programming and installing a UHF quantar by my local amateur radio club. I got it on the air tonight. The P25 side appears to work fin, however the analogue side has some annoying static at the end of the TX audio, just before the tails drops. Basically it is just as the person dekeys, there is a split second of static prior to the tail dropping. The tail drops clean. The unit is programmed with a 123Hz tone and 293 NAC. Any help on removing the static would be appreciated. Thanks Greg
[Repeater-Builder] Re: my previous Caution post
Mike Morris wa6i...@... wrote: You won't hear anything from me ! Skipp, please consider this an invitation to continue to post your warnings. Mike WA6ILQ moderator of repeater-builder Thank you Mike and everyone else... It was not a moderator of this group giving me grief for my first caution post. You've saved my bacon. I have since loaded Adblock Plus to Firefox and Thunderbird... 73 VK4JKL While Adblock Plus is one of the better Mozilla Firefox free Add-ons, the absolute best has to be Flashblock. Before Flashblock became available I couldn't even stand to have Flash Player installed on my computer. Now Flash Ads and unwanted items don't play unless I want them to and with the use of the white list allows me to enable entire sites (like Youtube). The use of Mozilla Firefox and the free Add-ons (available at the Mozilla web site) make it much more sane to browse the web. ... and of course everyone knows I'm a normal person, aren't all Amateur Radio Operators normal? cheers, s.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Quantar Audio static
gregmrfs wrote: Hi Everyone, I have been tasked with programming and installing a UHF quantar by my local amateur radio club. I got it on the air tonight. The P25 side appears to work fine, however the analogue side has some annoying static at the end of the TX audio, just before the tails drops. Basically it is just as the person dekeys, there is a split second of static prior to the tail dropping. The tail drops clean. The unit is programmed with a 123Hz tone and 293 NAC. Any help on removing the static would be appreciated. Thanks Greg ummm-it's called a squelch burst or squelch tail or squech crash by most. It takes a short period of time for the squelch circuit to mute the receive audio, so a brief 'burst' is normally heard. To eliminate it, there are two main methods: -All the users use commercial gear that has 'reverse-burst' or 'squelch-tail eliminator', which inverts the phase of the CTCSS tone for abt 100-200 mS after PTT is released and before the transmitter unkeys. Anyone using a 'made-for-ham' rig will still have the 'tail' -Install an outboard controller that has an audio delay circuit of some sort in it. It delays the audio by abt the same 100-200 mS, but mutes the repeat audio path instantly, closing the gate before the signal goes away.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: my previous Caution post
At 08:44 AM 01/20/10, you wrote: Mike Morris wa6...@... wrote: You won't hear anything from me ! Skipp, please consider this an invitation to continue to post your warnings. Mike WA6ILQ moderator of repeater-builder Thank you Mike and everyone else... It was not a moderator of this group giving me grief for my first caution post. You've saved my bacon. I have since loaded Adblock Plus to Firefox and Thunderbird... 73 VK4JKL While Adblock Plus is one of the better Mozilla Firefox free Add-ons, the absolute best has to be Flashblock. Before Flashblock became available I couldn't even stand to have Flash Player installed on my computer. Now Flash Ads and unwanted items don't play unless I want them to and with the use of the white list allows me to enable entire sites (like Youtube). The use of Mozilla Firefox and the free Add-ons (available at the Mozilla web site) make it much more sane to browse the web. ... and of course everyone knows I'm a normal person, aren't all Amateur Radio Operators normal? cheers, s. To quote my dad (WB6SOX, now SK), Normal is a setting on the clothes dryer. Mike WA6ILQ
[Repeater-Builder] Fwd: [LMR_Narrowbanding] UPDATE - 3rd Party Narrowbanding Kits; Certification Info
From a list devoted to the Part 90 narrowbanding issue. WalterH -- Forwarded message -- From: nbruark nbru...@gmail.com Date: Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 11:44 AM Subject: [LMR_Narrowbanding] UPDATE - 3rd Party Narrowbanding Kits; Certification Info To: lmr_narrowband...@yahoogroups.com FCC official answers to technical narrowbanding questions from Ira Keltz, deputy chief of the FCC's Office of Engineering and Technology http://mccmag.com/onlyonline.cfm?OnlyOnlineID=147 NOTE: The above article is in response to this previous MissionCritical article regarding the City of Spokane (WA) narrowbanding project: http://mccmag.com/onlyonline.cfm?OnlyOnlineID=144
RE: [Repeater-Builder] FS- Motorola R100 UHF Repeaters
All you need is the programming cable an the right software witch i have you can email me if you like Jim tmyr...@xcelco.on.ca --- On Wed, 1/20/10, N9WYS n9...@ameritech.net wrote: From: N9WYS n9...@ameritech.net Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] FS- Motorola R100 UHF Repeaters To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Received: Wednesday, January 20, 2010, 2:04 AM Dave, This is your best resource for information regarding your inquiry: http://www.repeater -builder. com/motorola/ r100/r100- index.html Mark – N9WYS From: Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:Repeater- buil...@yahoogro ups.com] On Behalf Of Dave Hubbell Whats involved in making these work on ham band? Dave On 1/16/2010 9:10 AM, tracomm wrote: For sale--Motorola R-100 UHF Repeaters UHF, now on 461/466 MHz. 110 vac or 12 vdc 4 units- Complete, clean 2 ea. Power out, working when removed 1 ea. ½ watt output 1 ea. Power up, no tx or rx no further checking Model H5016B (3) H5018 (1) 1 ea ComSpecTP3200 Controller with cable to R-100 Make great link repeaters #1- H5016B 794FRW0114 ½ watt output #2- H5016B 794FSA0173 28 watts output #3- H5018B 794FPS0081 No tx/No rx #4- H5016B 376FPL0087 24 watts output Sold as a package $500.00 plus UPS Shipping weight 2 boxes, 75 lbs ea. Shipped from 48088 trac...@aol. com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 270.14.150/2632 - Release Date: 01/19/10 07:34:00 __ Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca
Re: [Repeater-Builder] MSF 5000 Repeater for sale
Thanks to all that responded. Parts from the repeater has been sold. Steve N4YZA
[Repeater-Builder] Repeater Linking
OK, I know I've mentioned this before, but I think I'm on to something now... I wanted to have a stand alone repeater linker, kind of a crossband repeater, that would link uhf and vhf repeaters together without needing to make any changes to either repeater. The problem I ran into is when the first repeater finishes transmitting, the linker will hear the second repeater (if the pl doesn't drop out) and will key up the first repeater again. This cycle will continue until you turn off the linker. I tried this with my crossband radio and it causes the same problem. One solution is to have the repeater controller stop transmitting their pl right after the COR drops. Not all repeaters do this, so you would have to be selective as to which repeaters you link. The solution I came up with today is to use a microcontroller with a built in a/d converter. If after the first repeater stops transmitting, the microcontroller can sample the audio coming from the second repeater. If I go through a high pass filter, I should (might) be able to determine if the audio is 'dead air', a courtesy tone, or someone talking. If it's dead air or a tone, I won't key the linker. I can then wait for the COR from the second repeater to drop, or listen for audio. Do you think it will work? - Jerry
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater Linking
Can you not get the cooperation of the operators of the repeaters you want to link? Without that, the technical issues will be the least of your problems. If they approve, the PL solution can actually work quite well. The decision to be part of a linked system belongs to the licensee of each repeater. A remote which allows you to use your own repeater to access another is one thing, but linking two repeaters and their communities to each other through a third-party box without approval is a no-no in my book. 73, Paul, AE4KR - Original Message - From: Jerry To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 4:05 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater Linking OK, I know I've mentioned this before, but I think I'm on to something now... I wanted to have a stand alone repeater linker, kind of a crossband repeater, that would link uhf and vhf repeaters together without needing to make any changes to either repeater. The problem I ran into is when the first repeater finishes transmitting, the linker will hear the second repeater (if the pl doesn't drop out) and will key up the first repeater again. This cycle will continue until you turn off the linker. I tried this with my crossband radio and it causes the same problem. One solution is to have the repeater controller stop transmitting their pl right after the COR drops. Not all repeaters do this, so you would have to be selective as to which repeaters you link. The solution I came up with today is to use a microcontroller with a built in a/d converter. If after the first repeater stops transmitting, the microcontroller can sample the audio coming from the second repeater. If I go through a high pass filter, I should (might) be able to determine if the audio is 'dead air', a courtesy tone, or someone talking. If it's dead air or a tone, I won't key the linker. I can then wait for the COR from the second repeater to drop, or listen for audio. Do you think it will work? - Jerry
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater Linking
The best way is to have the pl drop when the cor drops --- On Wed, 1/20/10, Jerry gdste...@yahoo.com wrote: From: Jerry gdste...@yahoo.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater Linking To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Received: Wednesday, January 20, 2010, 6:05 PM OK, I know I've mentioned this before, but I think I'm on to something now... I wanted to have a stand alone repeater linker, kind of a crossband repeater, that would link uhf and vhf repeaters together without needing to make any changes to either repeater. The problem I ran into is when the first repeater finishes transmitting, the linker will hear the second repeater (if the pl doesn't drop out) and will key up the first repeater again. This cycle will continue until you turn off the linker. I tried this with my crossband radio and it causes the same problem. One solution is to have the repeater controller stop transmitting their pl right after the COR drops. Not all repeaters do this, so you would have to be selective as to which repeaters you link. The solution I came up with today is to use a microcontroller with a built in a/d converter. If after the first repeater stops transmitting, the microcontroller can sample the audio coming from the second repeater. If I go through a high pass filter, I should (might) be able to determine if the audio is 'dead air', a courtesy tone, or someone talking. If it's dead air or a tone, I won't key the linker. I can then wait for the COR from the second repeater to drop, or listen for audio. Do you think it will work? - Jerry __ Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com.
[Repeater-Builder] Programming a GR300 repeater
I just talked to a ham who bought a GR300 repeater with the Zetron controller an he needs some help. Anyone know where I can find info on how to program the GR300 radios? I found the Zetron info, but need to reprogram the radios from narrow band to 5KHz deviation, plus change the frequency. Thanks, Joe, K1ike
[Repeater-Builder] Kenwood TKR 720
Trying to interface a NHRC controler with a TKR 720 can hear the controler ID very faintly in the background but cannot get it to accept any commands. Any suggestions why the repeater cannot communicate with the controler? The repeater works fine just cant get the controler to work. Thanks Greg K9GJN
[Repeater-Builder] Re: my previous Caution post
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, N9WYS n9...@... wrote: For those wanting to be extra careful while continuing to use Internet Explorer, I think you can prevent this as well... In my instance, I have the following configuration in IE: 73 de Mark - N9WYS Thank you Mark for the detailed setting Thank you Mike for encouraging this type of post Thank you Skip for being brave enough to do it!!! I run Linux myself but have a LOT of friends that do not. Now i can help them also. Thanks again KB8STB Steve
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: my previous Caution post
At 08:44 AM 01/20/10, you wrote: Mike Morris wa6...@... wrote: You won't hear anything from me ! Skipp, please consider this an invitation to continue to post your warnings. Mike WA6ILQ moderator of repeater-builder Thank you Mike and everyone else... It was not a moderator of this group giving me grief for my first caution post. You've saved my bacon. I have since loaded Adblock Plus to Firefox and Thunderbird... 73 VK4JKL While Adblock Plus is one of the better Mozilla Firefox free Add-ons, the absolute best has to be Flashblock. Before Flashblock became available I couldn't even stand to have Flash Player installed on my computer. Now Flash Ads and unwanted items don't play unless I want them to and with the use of the white list allows me to enable entire sites (like Youtube). The use of Mozilla Firefox and the free Add-ons (available at the Mozilla web site) make it much more sane to browse the web. ... and of course everyone knows I'm a normal person, aren't all Amateur Radio Operators normal? cheers, s. To quote my dad (WB6SOX, now SK), Normal is a setting on the clothes dryer. Mike WA6ILQ Normal is also a place in Illinois.. de K4SLB
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Kenwood TKR 720
Greg, Have you disabled the internal controller? It needs to be completely disconnected and some wires jumpered before the external controller will work as designed... Mark - N9WYS -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of k9gjn Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 7:27 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Kenwood TKR 720 Trying to interface a NHRC controler with a TKR 720 can hear the controler ID very faintly in the background but cannot get it to accept any commands. Any suggestions why the repeater cannot communicate with the controler? The repeater works fine just cant get the controler to work. Thanks Greg K9GJN
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Programming a GR300 repeater
Re: Programming a GR300 repeater In any event, the same software package will handle any of the models I listed. The P/N is HVN8177, and is NLA from Motorola. You will need the software, an old slow computer running genuine MS-DOS, a RIB box, and cable. Actually... another option is available. If your computer will boot from an External USB thumb Drive... you can install DOS on the thumb drive, boot and program radios from it using various required software and the many slow down Moslo type programs. I'm doing that with a copy of MS-Dos 5.0 on a 2 Gig PNY Thumb drive and it works pretty well. The computer is a very fast CF-52 Tough Book. s.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Kenwood TKR 720
Mark I have only jumpered pin #11 to ground what else needs to be done? Thanks, Greg --- On Thu, 1/21/10, N9WYS n9...@ameritech.net wrote: From: N9WYS n9...@ameritech.net Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Kenwood TKR 720 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, January 21, 2010, 2:47 AM Greg, Have you disabled the internal controller? It needs to be completely disconnected and some wires jumpered before the external controller will work as designed... Mark - N9WYS -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of k9gjn Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 7:27 PM To: Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Kenwood TKR 720 Trying to interface a NHRC controler with a TKR 720 can hear the controler ID very faintly in the background but cannot get it to accept any commands. Any suggestions why the repeater cannot communicate with the controler? The repeater works fine just cant get the controler to work. Thanks Greg K9GJN
[Repeater-Builder] Kenwood repeaters
hi all i am doing an exchange locally ,my Master 2 repeater for a little kenwood repeater i dont recall the model but it is not powerful,15 or 20 watts i think,,,it looks like an audio amplifier,,, tk? is there a web site with many information on these little repeaters from kenwood? i dont need power anymore that is why i am bargainning this big 100 watts master 2 for the little one. 73/s all and thanks for the help gervais ve2ckn Emoticon10.gif
[Repeater-Builder] Re: follow up on lightening strike last spring response
Rich, it sounds like an antenna, feedline, or tower/site issue. The easiest way to find out would be a dummy load connected in place of your antenna. Operate into the repeater locally with an ht and listen for any noise. What you're describing is a fairly common problem with repeaters that share an antenna for tx/rx. How was the antenna Tested? A simple vswr test usually won't reveal this sort of problem. Its usually caused by loose metal-metal contact in close proximity of the antenna. However anything's possible :) 73 and good luck. Dan K8PLW Livonia, MI --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Richard rra...@... wrote: Sorry if I've been late in posting. First, the antenna and hard line is ok. We've tested that part out and its working. We think ( I ) that we got zapped through a unused phone line which is mounted behind the repeater rack. Yes, we have tested the can's using both a IRL (?sp) and a General Dynamics service monitor. They were taken apart and cleaned and retuned. Everything indicated they were functioning normally. Till we put them back in service. I don't know if they were tested with a dummy load. The technicians made many trips to the site: the technicians worked for the company that we rent the site from. We replaced all of the connectors and only found one that had scorched indications on it, but that was all. I asked if any of you knew how to find out if a can was operational, because all the test equipment that was used indicated they were ok. We finally found a workable solution. We added a fifth can, tuned to the transmit freq. That stoped the crackling noise. Now we're going to replace the can's, and go with a 6 can configuration. this is what was reconmended by the technician. Rich K8JX www.w8usa.org
[Repeater-Builder] Re: follow up on lightening strike last spring response
Most duplexers are passive, mechanical devices. You did say the cavities had been visually inspected and cleaned so we can assume the cans themselves are fine. In my opinion the single component on a duplexer that's most likely to fail would be the cable harness and its associated connectors/adaptors. Is this a vhf repeater? What is the power output? Dan K8PLW Livonia, MI --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Richard rra...@... wrote: Sorry if I've been late in posting. First, the antenna and hard line is ok. We've tested that part out and its working. We think ( I ) that we got zapped through a unused phone line which is mounted behind the repeater rack. Yes, we have tested the can's using both a IRL (?sp) and a General Dynamics service monitor. They were taken apart and cleaned and retuned. Everything indicated they were functioning normally. Till we put them back in service. I don't know if they were tested with a dummy load. The technicians made many trips to the site: the technicians worked for the company that we rent the site from. We replaced all of the connectors and only found one that had scorched indications on it, but that was all. I asked if any of you knew how to find out if a can was operational, because all the test equipment that was used indicated they were ok. We finally found a workable solution. We added a fifth can, tuned to the transmit freq. That stoped the crackling noise. Now we're going to replace the can's, and go with a 6 can configuration. this is what was reconmended by the technician. Rich K8JX www.w8usa.org
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: follow up on lightning strike last spring response
Since the typical BpBr duplexer uses an adjustable capacitor to tune the notch, I would think that one or more of those capacitors would be the most likely component to be damaged by a lightning-induced surge. For example, a Sinclair Q202G duplexer uses Johanson piston capacitors which have extremely close tolerances to achieve values of 10-30 pF. A digital capacitance meter could be used to measure the value of the notch tuning capacitor in each cavity, to find one that is out of family. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of dan173mi Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 8:43 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: follow up on lightning strike last spring response Most duplexers are passive, mechanical devices. You did say the cavities had been visually inspected and cleaned so we can assume the cans themselves are fine. In my opinion the single component on a duplexer that's most likely to fail would be the cable harness and its associated connectors/adaptors. Is this a vhf repeater? What is the power output? Dan K8PLW Livonia, MI --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com , Richard rra...@... wrote: Sorry if I've been late in posting. First, the antenna and hard line is ok. We've tested that part out and its working. We think ( I ) that we got zapped through a unused phone line which is mounted behind the repeater rack. Yes, we have tested the can's using both a IRL (?sp) and a General Dynamics service monitor. They were taken apart and cleaned and retuned. Everything indicated they were functioning normally. Till we put them back in service. I don't know if they were tested with a dummy load. The technicians made many trips to the site: the technicians worked for the company that we rent the site from. We replaced all of the connectors and only found one that had scorched indications on it, but that was all. I asked if any of you knew how to find out if a can was operational, because all the test equipment that was used indicated they were ok. We finally found a workable solution. We added a fifth can, tuned to the transmit freq. That stoped the crackling noise. Now we're going to replace the can's, and go with a 6 can configuration. this is what was reconmended by the technician. Rich K8JX
[Repeater-Builder] Re: follow up on lightning strike last spring response
Yes, its certainly possible a piston capacitor could be damaged due to lightening, but I'd think this would more apply to a direct hit scenario. It'd also be very apparent during tuning and would likely have a profound impact on system performance. There are also many cavites that don't utilize a piston capacitor for reject notch, i.e. many of the popular Wacom BpBr vhf duplexers: WP-641, 642, 643 etc. Dan K8PLW Livonia, MI --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lemmon wb6...@... wrote: Since the typical BpBr duplexer uses an adjustable capacitor to tune the notch, I would think that one or more of those capacitors would be the most likely component to be damaged by a lightning-induced surge. For example, a Sinclair Q202G duplexer uses Johanson piston capacitors which have extremely close tolerances to achieve values of 10-30 pF. A digital capacitance meter could be used to measure the value of the notch tuning capacitor in each cavity, to find one that is out of family. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of dan173mi Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 8:43 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: follow up on lightning strike last spring response Most duplexers are passive, mechanical devices. You did say the cavities had been visually inspected and cleaned so we can assume the cans themselves are fine. In my opinion the single component on a duplexer that's most likely to fail would be the cable harness and its associated connectors/adaptors. Is this a vhf repeater? What is the power output? Dan K8PLW Livonia, MI --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com , Richard rranta@ wrote: Sorry if I've been late in posting. First, the antenna and hard line is ok. We've tested that part out and its working. We think ( I ) that we got zapped through a unused phone line which is mounted behind the repeater rack. Yes, we have tested the can's using both a IRL (?sp) and a General Dynamics service monitor. They were taken apart and cleaned and retuned. Everything indicated they were functioning normally. Till we put them back in service. I don't know if they were tested with a dummy load. The technicians made many trips to the site: the technicians worked for the company that we rent the site from. We replaced all of the connectors and only found one that had scorched indications on it, but that was all. I asked if any of you knew how to find out if a can was operational, because all the test equipment that was used indicated they were ok. We finally found a workable solution. We added a fifth can, tuned to the transmit freq. That stoped the crackling noise. Now we're going to replace the can's, and go with a 6 can configuration. this is what was reconmended by the technician. Rich K8JX
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: current state of our lightening struck repeater.
I thought I'd better update the list on what was found. First off, the entire repeater was taken in to the shop for exhaustive testing. The can's were taken apart, inspected and cleaned. All that was visibly found was a little carbon. The two service monitors showed they were working ok. But, when placed back into service at the site, the transmit side leaked into the receiver side. It presented a crackling noise, like saran wrap being crushed. I don't know if the technicians tested the repeater at full power, ( 110 watts) during testing, but I think so. We did solve part of the problem. A fifth can was put into line, on the transmit side and by golly, it did the trick. The repeater is sounding better than before the strike. Interesting enough, there are two or three UHF repeaters also in the site, and none were affected? We're now looking for a 6 can set and controller. I'll share with you when we finally find out where the problem is. Rich K8JX www.w8usa.org
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Kenwood repeaters
At 08:08 PM 1/20/2010, gervais wrote: hi all i am doing an exchange locally ,my Master 2 repeater for a little kenwood repeater i dont recall the model Triste émoticône but it is not powerful,15 or 20 watts i think,,,it looks like an audio amplifier,,, tk? is there a web site with many information on these little repeaters from kenwood? i dont need power anymore that is why i am bargainning this big 100 watts master 2 for the little one. 73/s all and thanks for the help ---Hi Gervais. You're thinking of the TKR series. As for power, you can always add an external amp if you need more power. Here's a link to the brochure about them http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ftp/pub/manuals/tkr-750_850.pdf Ken inline: 3381c4a.gif -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and we offer complete repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Kenwood repeaters
On Jan 20, 2010, at 9:08 PM, gervais wrote: hi all i am doing an exchange locally ,my Master 2 repeater for a little kenwood repeater i dont recall the modelEmoticon10.gif but it is not powerful,15 or 20 watts i think,,,it looks like an audio amplifier,,, tk? is there a web site with many information on these little repeaters from kenwood? i dont need power anymore that is why i am bargainning this big 100 watts master 2 for the little one. 73/s all and thanks for the help gervais ve2ckn Gervais, Are you buying the Kenwood from a Kenwood dealer, or a private party? Any good Kenwood 2-way dealer should be able to help you obtain proper manuals/documentation for it, unless it's an old enough model that documentation is out of print. A GREAT dealer will help you find the manuals, program the repeater, etc... even if you bought it from someone else, perhaps charging a reasonable price for their shop technician's time. A merely good dealer might not be as motivated to assist, but usually will. -- Nate Duehr, WY0X n...@natetech.com http://facebook.com/denverpilot http://twitter.com/denverpilot
