Fw: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Diversity FM reception

[wb8art]

Well, I have only one observation on this statment.  In late 70's or early 80's 
CP was the proposed solution to ghosting.  WTTV - 4 Bloomington converted to CP 
for that exact reason.  Working in the field we documented the difference at a 
receive site.  I still have the Poloraid's somewhere but it was a significant 
improvement I can say.  Of course getting the recieve ant's for CP was not an 
option, which would have given an additional improvement, per the Ch4 chief 
engineer.  That was for a single data point I grant you, and maybe as many seen 
a downgraded picture, but I can't say for sure on that.  Sure seems curious to 
me.

Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, John Sehring  wrote:

> 
> TV tried & abandoned CP due to ghosting.  With color TV, the ghosting is even 
> more obnoxious.  This I have on the authority of the VP of Engineering of one 
> of the largest national Canadian TV networks (he's a ham).
> 

>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: isolation

[wb8art]

Tony,  Try this one at RB website.

http://www.repeater-builder.com/downloads/download-index.html

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Tony KT9AC  wrote:
>
> Other than ordering the software, is there an "old-school" formula that 
> can be used for this? I been using the "decibel-wheel" to convert from 
> microvolts to dbm.
> 
> NORM KNAPP wrote:
> >  
> >
> > H
> > How about a mastr ii pll Vhf 147.225/147.825 with db224a @ 270' with 
> > 300' ldf7-50a and 110watts. I am running 45 watts right now.
> > Thanks
> > De N5NPO
> > Norm
> >
> > - Original Message -
> > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
> >  
> >  > >
> > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
> >  
> >  > >
> > Sent: Sat Aug 22 10:22:36 2009
> > Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] isolation
> >
> >
> >
> > My CommShop calculates 99.65 dB is required. I'd definitely be looking 
> > at a
> > six-cavity BpBr duplexer for this station.
> >
> > 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
> >  
> > 
> > [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
> >  
> >  ] On Behalf Of kj4si
> > Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 6:55 AM
> > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
> >  
> > 
> > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] isolation
> >
> > Hope someone may have a program,commshop? What I need to know is what 
> > amount
> > of isolation with duplexers that is required for a GE m2 receiver with
> > .1...@12db and a m2 pll exciter,100 watt PA on vhf,600kc split?1/2in
> > helix,with 4pole db224 antenna at 70 ft.
> >
> > thanks kj4si
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: newbie

[wb8art]

Welcome Andy and yes a lot more harder these days to get a good site.  

Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Andy Hearn"  wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone
> 
> Just found this group from repeater-builder site. Run GB3CC, but off air due 
> to loss of commercial site due to increased rent etc.
> Hoping to get CC back on air soon, just have to acquire some more cavities, 
> and negotiate a new site !
> GB3CC is (was) running a Vertex VXR-5000 with G8CUL logic.
> 
> Regards
> Andy  G3UEQ
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Exec II input problem

[wb8art]

Yes I have and I know they can be hard to see. But don't think thats it but 
will be tearing it a apart again and clean and resolder as that did seem to 
make progress with the issue. At first with the problem I could get the 
sensistivity up to .35 better than spec with pulling out the RCA jack to only 
the center pin connected now that doesn't help much so why I think it was 
bypassing the loss of the filter stage and the fact that possible resoldering 
the coil base improved the issue concurs with my thought. 
Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Kelsey"  wrote:
>
> Did you check the front end for tin whiskers like someone else posted? They 
> can easily destroy sensitivity.
> 
> Chuck
> WB2EDV
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "wb8art" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2009 9:28 AM
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Exec II input problem
> 
> 
> Hi Jim,  I am using a Wavetek 3001. I also have a MVP here with the same 
> helical filter and it doesn't exhibit this.  Hence fairly convinced that 
> something is going on with the Exec's filter.  It seems like the signal is 
> getting better because were loosing the loss of the filter stage.  Update 
> now is that I have resoldered the base of the first coil and ant connections 
> and it has got a lot better. I don't see the change near as much, but moving 
> the cable around still does impact the signal.. The RX freq is 448.625 and 
> sensitivity seems to be .72uV for 20db of quieting versus spec of .5uV.  So 
> still fighting it.
> 
> Randy
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Exec II input problem

[wb8art]

Hi Jim,  I am using a Wavetek 3001. I also have a MVP here with the same 
helical filter and it doesn't exhibit this.  Hence fairly convinced that 
something is going on with the Exec's filter.  It seems like the signal is 
getting better because were loosing the loss of the filter stage.  Update now 
is that I have resoldered the base of the first coil and ant connections and it 
has got a lot better. I don't see the change near as much, but moving the cable 
around still does impact the signal.. The RX freq is 448.625 and sensitivity 
seems to be .72uV for 20db of quieting versus spec of .5uV.  So still fighting 
it.  

Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown  wrote:
>
> What are you using for a signal generator?  Some generators leak a lot of 
> signal and might have more than .35 uV of signal radiated on the outside of 
> the coax.  When you break the shield path, this higher signal level might get 
> to the radio.
> 
> Another post mentioned that the RCA connector uses a short pin.  I use a BNC 
> to RCA connector with the center pin cut back to match the radio internal 
> connectors to avoid problems in this area.
> 
> 734 - Jim  W5ZIT 
> 
> --- On Thu, 5/28/09, wb8art  wrote:
> 
> From: wb8art 
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Exec II input problem
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, May 28, 2009, 4:02 PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
>Wonder if anyone has had this problem and know what the problem 
> is.  I am working on a GE Exec II repeater (converted mobile) which has no 
> Comb no.  I any case the issue is that if I move around the cable feeding it 
> with a generator I was seeing a change in the recieve.  
> 
>  I went directly to the RCA jack, and then found that just making 
> connection with the center pin, I have about 10 to 20db stronger recieved 
> signal than when I push it all the way in making the ground connection.  
> 
>  This is a mobile and the RF deck is no. is 19D417075G14 rev A covered by 
> LBI30032E. This shows a option of either non floating ground or floating 
> ground input.  This one is a non floating ground one.  Might have been 
> changed but I have know knowledge of its history. 
> 
>  The RCA jack center pin connects directly with a wire thru a hole to the 
> first helical and I have looked and can see no connection issues and measures 
> a short with an ohm meter.  I even reheated the solder joints and no change.  
> Anythoughts would be appreciated. 
> 
> 
> 
> Randy
>

[Repeater-Builder] Exec II input problem

[wb8art]

 Wonder if anyone has had this problem and know what the problem is.  I am 
working on a GE Exec II repeater (converted mobile) which has no Comb no.  I 
any case the issue is that if I move around the cable feeding it with a 
generator I was seeing a change in the recieve.  
 I went directly to the RCA jack, and then found that just making 
connection with the center pin, I have about 10 to 20db stronger recieved 
signal than when I push it all the way in making the ground connection.  
 This is a mobile and the RF deck is no. is 19D417075G14 rev A covered by 
LBI30032E. This shows a option of either non floating ground or floating ground 
input.  This one is a non floating ground one.  Might have been changed but I 
have know knowledge of its history. 
 The RCA jack center pin connects directly with a wire thru a hole to the 
first helical and I have looked and can see no connection issues and measures a 
short with an ohm meter.  I even reheated the solder joints and no change.  
Anythoughts would be appreciated. 

Randy 

[Repeater-Builder] Re: TX max power

[wb8art]

Thanks Eric,  That is exactly what I was needing to know. This will give us a 
good starting point and since it is looking to run only 35 watts it should be 
OK.  That is better than I expected.  Anyway I believe it, (the duplexer) is 
only rated at 50 watts.  

Your a gentleman & a scholar.
Thanks Randy


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Lemmon"  wrote:
>
> Randy,
> 
> Using a TX frequency of 443.000 MHz and a RX frequency of 448.000 MHz, and
> with a receive sensitivity of 0.35 uV, my CommShop program calculates that
> 100 watts of TX power requires at least 74 dB of isolation.  Since a mobile
> (notch only) duplexer is hardly an ideal choice, I'd suggest keeping the
> power below 50 watts.  Keep in mind that CommShop, like most similar
> programs, makes many assumptions that may or may not be true in your
> particular case.  Keeping the PA from burning up due to a high duty cycle in
> repeater service may be more important than avoiding desense.
> 
> 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
>  
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wb8art
> Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 11:11 AM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] TX max power
> 
> 
> 
> Can some one with one of those fancy programs like Comm-Shop run it and tell
> me the max power a Exec II on UHF ham band run with a 75 isolation mobile
> duplexer. Assuming that the coax and ant are a ideal setup. 
> 
> Randy WB8ART
>

[Repeater-Builder] TX max power

[wb8art]

Can some one with one of those fancy programs like Comm-Shop run it and tell me 
the max power a Exec II on UHF ham band run with a 75 isolation mobile 
duplexer.  Assuming that the coax and ant are a ideal setup.  

Randy WB8ART

[Repeater-Builder] Re: OT - recommendation needed - battery charger

[wb8art]

Mike,  I use a 2 watt solar powered SP-2 by PulseTech.  Works great.

http://www.pulsetech.net/

Randy

PS no noise that  I have detected on any bands yet.


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ  wrote:
>
> Got a friend who is laid up with back problems.
> 
> His car has been sitting for several months between uses.
> 
> He has already lost one battery from sitting idle.
> 
> He wants to purchase something packaged like a trickle charger
> that can be connected to the battery and left there (maybe even
> semi-permanently with a cord hanging out the grille).
> 
> Does anyone have a suggestion for such a product ?
> 
> Maybe one of the "desulfator" devices ?
> 
> Mike WA6ILQ
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Remote receiver "suicide" control

[wb8art]

Paul, 
  So your thinking of a seperate RX with a control to kill the link.  That 
with a decoder & logic could drive the breaker to trip mentioned earlier.  

Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul Kelley N1BUG 
 wrote:
>
> Randy,
> 
> I will be using a small repeater controller. What I want is some way 
> to kill power to everything in the box... receiver, link 
> transmitter, controller, the whole works. This would be a last 
> resort in the event something fails in such a way that it is 
> critical to shut it down, at a time when I can't physically get to 
> the site. Some sites here are not easily reached in winter. Since I 
> really want to be able to kill power to everything, including the 
> controller, it will pretty much end up requiring a later trip to 
> revive the site. Hopefully I will never need to use the last resort 
> kill command, but I consider it a must have feature. My main concern 
> is that the kill switch be as reliable as possible. Of course 
> nothing is 100% reliable! If a receiver or DTMF decoder dies, I will 
> lose the ability to kill the site anyway.
> 
> Paul
> 
> 
> wb8art wrote:
> > Paul,  I have a question on this suicide control.  Are you
> > killing everything thus no ability to revive the site without
> > visiting it?  Not withstanding I would use a simple small
> > repeater controler.  Chose your poison there, but in any case,
> > there are some that give you a small amount of logic outputs to
> > drive whatever kill switch you decide on. Added plus you have
> > control of remote on/off, ID PL on/off etc.  Just a thought.
> > 
> > Randy
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: MASTR II PTT

[wb8art]

Vern,  If your relay coil doesn't draw very much current it probably would 
work.  I would say using a opto isolator or minumum a transistor switch would 
be a more practical method.  I use a simple 2n transitor to fire a MII for 
echolink.  

Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Vernon Densler"  wrote:
>
> I am trying to key my MASTR II from my PC.  Is there any reason I can't use
> a 5v 1a relay connected to the serial port and the PTT line on the MASTR II
> to do this?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Vern
> 
> KI4ONW
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Remote receiver "suicide" control

[wb8art]

Paul,  I have a question on this suicide control.  Are you killing everything 
thus no ability to revive the site without visiting it?  Not withstanding I 
would use a simple small repeater controler.  Chose your poison there, but in 
any case, there are some that give you a small amount of logic outputs to drive 
whatever kill switch you decide on. Added plus you have control of remote 
on/off, ID PL on/off etc.  Just a thought.  

Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "rahwayflynn"  wrote:
>
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul Kelley N1BUG 
>  wrote:
> >
> > For my application I'm wondering about how to interface the DTMF 
> > decoder output to permanently kill power to a site. I'm thinking I 
> > want to have it do something like deliberately blow a fuse... but 
> > maybe there are better ways to handle it.
> 
> Paul,
> Take a look at http://www.broadcastboxes.com/products/DS8lit1.html Each relay 
> can be programmed to respond to 1-4 DTMF digits.  I use one to decode the 
> DTMF squelch for the paramedics.
> 
> A 50A 2 pole relay with a 12V shunt trip coil is available under 
> Airpax/Sensata part number APL11-3-51-503. 
> 
> Martin
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Anyone ever used this repeater controller?

[wb8art]

Bob I have been able to fit the ICS Basic controller in the front in place of 
the tone bd. similar to the NHRC retro.  So far not had any problems.

Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, n...@... wrote:
>
> At 3/27/2009 07:36, you wrote:
> >Bob, I've been considering getting one of the NHRC controllers for a GE 
> >MVP. Are they dependable, or like your email mentions, having some 
> >occasional failures?
> 
> IMO, no.  Our NHRC-micro has failed 3 times.  The first time NHRC was nice 
> enough to repair it under warranty, but the 2nd time they stopped answering 
> e-mails, so I fixed it myself as well as the 3rd time a couple of months 
> ago.  Each time the problem was a bad chip capacitor.  On the last failure 
> the chip cap shorted the V+ line, vaporizing a trace as well as some of the 
> board material.  I managed to fix it but it's barely hanging on now.
> 
> The repeater itself is installed in a rather benign environment (3 story 
> medical office building) & I've been told there hasn't been any lightning 
> in the area during the entire time it's been in operation.  Also nothing 
> else in the system suffered any damage during this time, including the 
> Astron power supply, which never crowbarred.  So my conclusion is that a 
> bad batch of chip caps found their way into this unit.  Given this 
> conclusion & NHRC's failure to communicate with me on the 2nd failure I 
> can't recommend their products, & have been looking for a non-NHRC 
> replacement controller that would fit in the multi-freq area of an 
> MVP.  Looks like we finally have something available in the RC-99.
> 
> Bob NO6B
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Quieting duplex noise from a tower

[wb8art]

Don,  Its pretty straight forward. They have a size equivilent to the 3/16 in 
mechanical strength, and you should use the Phillystran preforms and timble 
sleeves.  Make sure not going thru trees or other such things that could rub 
against it.  Hope that answers it.  But we had them up for 12 or so years with 
no issues.  

Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Don Kupferschmidt"  wrote:
>
> I've been looking at phillystran for many years now, but never implemented 
> it.  I've used 3/16 EHS with associated hardware.  I too, have issues with 
> noise.
> 
> Any others out there who have, and can give any ideas on how to use it for 
> guying a tower?  Hardware used, hints and kinks?
> 
> Or are there docs or web sites that can be referred to?
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Don, KD9PT
> 
> 
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: Nate Duehr 
>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2009 7:18 PM
>   Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Quieting duplex noise from a tower
> 
> 
>   This fixes the RF problem, but creates a new one. the guy anchors can now 
> explode in a direct lightning strike if your shorting wires don't give up 
> first. if the lightning thinks the path down the guy wire looks "better" than 
> others. 
> 
>   Nate WY0X
> 
>
> 
>   From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kerinvale
>   Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2009 4:28 PM
>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>   Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Quieting duplex noise from a tower
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Quieting duplex noise from a tower

[wb8art]

Hello Paul,  Worked you a few times many moons ago.  I would agree with Jeff 
with tapping and slightly causing movement with the repeater up with a weak 
signal. 
  I have before experiened both an antenna (stationmaster) with internal 
broken joint which caused severe noise and desense but also dependent on 
movement in the structure.  Also have seen with a 100ft. guyed 3/36 town like 
yours having the same issue.  I tried grounding bonding all joints on guys to 
tower and between tower sections to no avail. Also tried isolating the preforms 
from tower and bottom supports with no change.  I decided that the 3/16 
stranded was the generation source.  We changed the guys to Phillystran and 
never had another issue.  

Good luck with isolating the problem. 
Randy
 

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul N1BUG  wrote:
>
> OK guys... I thought I could figure this out on  my own, but I was 
> wrong. I could use some wisdom from the group! I have been chasing a 
> stubborn case of "duplex noise" for a long time without success.
> 
> The 2 meter repeater will run clean all day at 100 watts (or any 
> lower power level) into a quality RF load placed on the antenna port 
> of the duplexer. It will run clean all day with the same load placed 
> at the antenna end of the feedline.
> 
> With the antenna connected it will SOMETIMES run clean. At other 
> times we get the crackling and popping of "duplex noise". And at 
> times we get increased noise floor (I can see it on the receiver 
> limiter current but it has no specific "sound", it's just like the 
> normal receiver noise floor came up 20 to 30 dB!) None of this 
> happens when it is run into the RF load. It is only when running 
> into the antenna, and then only sometimes. The steady high noise 
> floor, when present, happens only when my transmitter is up. It 
> happens even if no other transmitters on the hill are up. It will 
> occasionally go for days or even weeks without a glitch, then be 
> essentially unusable for hours or days.
> 
> The crackling does seem to be worse in windy weather. The steady 
> noise does not seem to be better or worse in any kind of weather, 
> but occurs completely at random as far as I can tell.
> 
> Three different antennas (all DB or Sinclair, two of them NEW) have 
> been tried with no significant change. The feedline (Andrew 
> LDF5-50A) has been swapped out once with no change.
> 
> I think that leaves the tower or other nearby metal structures as 
> the prime suspects.
> 
> The tower is 100 feet of Rohn 25G guyed with 3/16" EHS. I have tried 
> more than once to "bond" the sections of tower with straps across 
> the leg joints, and similarly where guys attach to the tower and/or 
> turnbuckles etc. at ground level. These efforts did not help and 
> seemed to actually make matters worse. By the way, the guy ends use 
> Big Grips, not clamps. Was that a mistake for a repeater tower?
> 
> I am looking for advice. If anyone has solved noise problems in a 
> similar tower, I would very much like to know specifically what 
> materials you used and how you installed them that worked for you!
> 
> I do have another newly erected 100 foot tower close by. It could be 
> part of the problem. However, I was having this problem long before 
> that tower went up so I'm still pointing fingers at my own stuff.
> 
> A 440 repeater on the same tower does not have any problems. Neither 
> repeater seems to be affected by the other's transmitter. It is only 
> the 2 meter repeater killing itself.
> 
> Both my tower structure and the new adjacent tower structure are 
> "hot" with RF from my 2 meter transmitter, as evidenced by horrible 
> noise when something like a screwdriver shaft is lightly rubbed 
> against the towers or guys. I do not find any other metal structures 
> in the vicinity that react that way.
> 
> There is NO loose hardware in my system. I've been over it time and 
> time again. There is NO visible rust anywhere.
> 
> Any suggestions before I pull the rest of my rapidly thinning hair out?
> 
> Here's one for ya... this problem first reared it ugly head right 
> after I put up the tower. For years prior to that I had run the 
> antenna on a rusty metal mast with loose fitting joints without ever 
> a hint of trouble!!!
> 
> Paul N1BUG
> 147.105 and 444.950
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Interference or Intermod ( ? ) Help....here goes

[wb8art]

Hi Skipp, Yes I reread the post and realize I jumped to some horrible 
conclusion.  My bad.  Guess I'll sink back into my cave and think 
twice before commenting.  

Randy
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "skipp025"  
wrote:
>
> 
> Hi Randy, 
> 
> I did place a notch cavity in the antenna feed line, tuned 
> to the image frequency of the receiver IF.
> 
> As an example 
> 
> Notch 245.750MHz (TV Channel 14 Audio Carrier Frequency) 
> 
> 245.750MHz minus 21.4 IF = 224.05 
> 
> Receiver IF Frequencies vary a bit... and both Channel 
> 13 and 14 analog are quite happy to provide a strong 
> image source. 
> 
> Original Icom 3AT portables are/were really problematic 
> to use in my area because of poor TV signal image rejection. 
> 
> cheers, 
> skipp 
> 
> > "wb8art"  wrote:
> > Skipp, why would you not filter it on the input?
> > Randy
> > 
> > 
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "skipp025"  
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I remember that Neutec Unit... saw it on Ebay. 
> > > 
> > > Mike
> > > 
> > > Do you have any analog television stations on channel(s) 11 
> > > through 14 in the area still on the air? 
> > > 
> > > If so, I might suspect an IF image might be possible. I had 
> > > the same type of problem here from channel 13 getting into a 
> > > number of Icom receivers. 
> > > 
> > > I had to notch the image frequency of my IF to get rid of 
> > > it. 
> > > 
> > > s. 
> > > 
> > > > "Michael Ryan"  wrote:
> > > >
> > > > My recent efforts at putting a 220 repeater on the air here 
in 
> > western
> > > > Florida have been mildly succesful.  I am using a Neutec 
designed
> > > repeater.
> > > > ( I know there are some uhf and vhf models around, this one 
is on 
> > 220, a
> > > > RANGER brand ).  The repeater is open access. And runs quiet 
all 
> > day or
> > > > night, nothing cracking the squelch at all.  But during times 
when
> > > there is
> > > > a conversation going on after a few minutes a rather nasty 
signal
> > > captures
> > > > the repeater sometimes in short bursts, sometimes much 
longer. 
> > > "Sounds like
> > > > someone talking into a reverb chamber.."  I had been using a 
> > Mirage
> > > brick
> > > > amp in the rack, but suspected that this amp might be the 
> > problem, some
> > > > oscillation or internal mixing of some sort.  This turned out 
not 
> > to
> > > be the
> > > > case, the amp though still in the circuit is OFF but we still 
get 
> > the
> > > > garbage.  When the amp would be ON, and I would sometimes 
hear 
> > this
> > > stuff
> > > > start, and I could turn OFF the amp an it would stop.  But 
> > shortly later
> > > > even with the amp OFF, it is back.very odd that it would 
appear 
> > to me. 
> > > > 
> > > > Now, all cables in the rack are RG-400. Every one in the 
rack.  
> > Half
> > > inch
> > > > hardline runs to the antenna, though there is a splice with a 
> > double
> > > male N
> > > > connector as I recall. The Neutec unit does about 25 watts 
output
> > > but I have
> > > > it cut back to about 10 watts thinking it will run cooler.  
Thus
> > > with the
> > > > small brick amp it was doing about 65 watts output to the 
> > Telewave 4
> > > cavity
> > > > duplexer.  
> > > > 
> > > > While at the site tonight, I could hear something getting 
into the
> > > recvr.
> > > > The repeater was UP, but no one talking at that moment.  
Again,
> > > nothing on
> > > > it's own ever appears to break the squelch. The noise was 
heard
> > > through the
> > > > repeater's on board speaker, meaning it was coming through 
the 
> > antenna /
> > > > recvr and not something produced in the rack I would assume.  
> > > > 
> > > > There is a cel tower about 1,000ft away and another tower 
with ( 
> > who
> > > knows )
> > > > how many other users,  another 500ft further away.  Based on 
this
> > > little bit
> > > > of info what would the masses suggest in first FINDING the 
> > offending
> > > source
> > > > if is indeed intermod?Then, is there much than can be 
done 
> > short of
> > > > moving my machine?   Any ideas or suggestions?
> > > > 
> > > > n  Mike
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Interference or Intermod ( ? ) Help....here goes

[wb8art]

Skipp, why would you not filter it on the input?

Randy


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "skipp025"  
wrote:
>
> I remember that Neutec Unit... saw it on Ebay. 
> 
> Mike
> 
> Do you have any analog television stations on channel(s) 11 
> through 14 in the area still on the air? 
> 
> If so, I might suspect an IF image might be possible. I had 
> the same type of problem here from channel 13 getting into a 
> number of Icom receivers. 
> 
> I had to notch the image frequency of my IF to get rid of 
> it. 
> 
> s. 
> 
> > "Michael Ryan"  wrote:
> >
> > My recent efforts at putting a 220 repeater on the air here in 
western
> > Florida have been mildly succesful.  I am using a Neutec designed
> repeater.
> > ( I know there are some uhf and vhf models around, this one is on 
220, a
> > RANGER brand ).  The repeater is open access. And runs quiet all 
day or
> > night, nothing cracking the squelch at all.  But during times when
> there is
> > a conversation going on after a few minutes a rather nasty signal
> captures
> > the repeater sometimes in short bursts, sometimes much longer. 
> "Sounds like
> > someone talking into a reverb chamber.."  I had been using a 
Mirage
> brick
> > amp in the rack, but suspected that this amp might be the 
problem, some
> > oscillation or internal mixing of some sort.  This turned out not 
to
> be the
> > case, the amp though still in the circuit is OFF but we still get 
the
> > garbage.  When the amp would be ON, and I would sometimes hear 
this
> stuff
> > start, and I could turn OFF the amp an it would stop.  But 
shortly later
> > even with the amp OFF, it is back.very odd that it would appear 
to me. 
> > 
> > Now, all cables in the rack are RG-400. Every one in the rack.  
Half
> inch
> > hardline runs to the antenna, though there is a splice with a 
double
> male N
> > connector as I recall. The Neutec unit does about 25 watts output
> but I have
> > it cut back to about 10 watts thinking it will run cooler.  Thus
> with the
> > small brick amp it was doing about 65 watts output to the 
Telewave 4
> cavity
> > duplexer.  
> > 
> > While at the site tonight, I could hear something getting into the
> recvr.
> > The repeater was UP, but no one talking at that moment.  Again,
> nothing on
> > it's own ever appears to break the squelch. The noise was heard
> through the
> > repeater's on board speaker, meaning it was coming through the 
antenna /
> > recvr and not something produced in the rack I would assume.  
> > 
> > There is a cel tower about 1,000ft away and another tower with ( 
who
> knows )
> > how many other users,  another 500ft further away.  Based on this
> little bit
> > of info what would the masses suggest in first FINDING the 
offending
> source
> > if is indeed intermod?Then, is there much than can be done 
short of
> > moving my machine?   Any ideas or suggestions?
> > 
> > n  Mike
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Cable velocity

[wb8art]

Seems to be TFC T10 drop and should be 85%.

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "mike"  wrote:
>
> 
> I have been searching for the velocity factor for E86650 cable. This 
> was the stamp on the cable. I think it is simular to RG-59 but want 
to 
> make sure. I need to build a phasing harness and wanted to use this 
> cable and of course the velocity factor is an important in 
determining 
> the length.
> Thanks for any help
> Mike
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Cable velocity

[wb8art]

Did you Google the no.?  

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "mike"  wrote:
>
> 
> I have been searching for the velocity factor for E86650 cable. This 
> was the stamp on the cable. I think it is simular to RG-59 but want 
to 
> make sure. I need to build a phasing harness and wanted to use this 
> cable and of course the velocity factor is an important in 
determining 
> the length.
> Thanks for any help
> Mike
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Tower Identification

[wb8art]

It certainly looks like Rohn 45.  

Randy


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kris Kirby  wrote:
>
> On Wed, 7 Jan 2009, Chuck Kelsey wrote:
> > > How can I identify an otherwise unknown tower as Rohn 20, 25, 
45, etc. 
> > > or even another tower manufacturer altogether?
> > > 
> > > I'm printing off the Rohn 25, 45, and 55 section details, but 
beyond 
> > > those drawings, I've no other clues to ID the tower.
> > >
> > Post a picture.
> 
> http://catonic.us/wigi/pics/ham/tower/
> 
> I believe it to be a Rohn 45. It is approximately 18" from side to 
side, 
> and has the "Z" railing.
> 
> --
> Kris Kirby, KE4AHR  
> But remember, with no superpowers comes no responsibility. 
>   --rly
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Helper Instruments

[wb8art]

Hi Mike,  Best I can find out it is called a service monitor, hence SM 
in model no..  Has Sinadder function as well as monitor RX and signal 
generator and modulator, deviation, and off frequency detector meter.  

Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ 
 wrote:
>
> At 04:06 PM 12/22/08, you wrote:
> >Anyone have a operations manual and or service manual for a Helper
> >Instruments SM-512
> >
> >Randy
> 
> Is that a Sinadder, an RG voltmeter, or another type of equipment?
>

[Repeater-Builder] Helper Instruments

[wb8art]

Anyone have a operations manual and or service manual for a Helper 
Instruments SM-512

Randy

[Repeater-Builder] Re: RC 1000 controller code table

[wb8art]

Joe can you send it direct to wb8art at netzero dot com.  I use the 
web base mostly and it does get the attachments.

Thanks Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe  wrote:
>
> Here are the codes from the July 1, 1995 Rev 4.3 manual.
> 
> 73, Joe, K1ike
> 
> 
> wb8art wrote:
> > Well its not that old then and a lot of the codes are current with 
> > 4.7 rev, but there are a few that do other things, not expected so 
> > just trying to get the real data.
> > Randy
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: RC 1000 controller code table

[wb8art]

Well its not that old then and a lot of the codes are current with 
4.7 rev, but there are a few that do other things, not expected so 
just trying to get the real data.
Randy


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, neal Newman  
wrote:
>
> The Old codes were 3 digits  like 100 ,101,102,103
>  the newer versions had 4 digits  4100,4101,4102  Ect..
>  try that
> 
> --- On Wed, 12/17/08, wb8art  wrote:
> 
> > From: wb8art 
> > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] RC 1000 controller code table
> > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > Date: Wednesday, December 17, 2008, 4:36 PM
> > Anyone have a copy of an older version of the code &
> > user tables?  I 
> > have chip version rev 4.34, and the RB sites text is rev
> > 4.7.. There 
> > are some differences apparently and it would be nice to get
> > the 
> > correct tables.
> > 
> > Randy 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] RC 1000 controller code table

[wb8art]

Anyone have a copy of an older version of the code & user tables?  I 
have chip version rev 4.34, and the RB sites text is rev 4.7.. There 
are some differences apparently and it would be nice to get the 
correct tables.

Randy 

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Measuring Desense

[wb8art]

I don't beleive that to be correct.  The FCC has mandated 3 years for 
the continued carriage of analog.  Some exceptions on small systems 
and low bandwidth but most will still carry analog.  

Randy




--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Nate Duehr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> 
> On Jul 12, 2008, at 9:31 AM, Ron Wright wrote:
> 
> > Understand the FCC has mandated typical coaxial cable keep analog 
to  
> > I think 2012 although they can offer digital on the cable as 
Bright  
> > House does here.
> 
> Their set-top boxes have to provide analog service to the TV 
itself,  
> but what they send down their distribution pipe is up to them.
> 
> --
> Nate Duehr
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies

[wb8art]

I am not buying it.  Seems over the top and you would never have 
enough breaker panel posistions for all of the needed outlets. 
Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Bruce,
> 
> Probably should kill this topic for it has radiacally changed from 
orginal posting and not really repeater related although AC power is 
a concern for about any repeater builder.
> 
> I think one reason for separate wiring to each outlet is the way so 
many are wired using the little spring loaded connections that 
require only stripping the wire and inserting...do not use the screw 
terminals that most all have.
> 
> Over time the spring tention weakens producing a poor connection at 
one outlet that can lead to a high resistance and heat.  Having 
multiple outlets on one string of wiring can amplify this situation.
> 
> I don't like the strip and insert connections and think they sould 
no be allowed.  Whenever I replace/repair an outlet I cut the wire 
and connect to the screws.
> 
> I am sure there are other reasons for separate wiring to each 
outlet.  The electric code has many not so obvious reasons for what 
they do mainly from experience.
> 
> 73, ron, n9ee/r
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> >From: Bruce Bagwell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Date: 2008/07/06 Sun PM 09:08:33 EDT
> >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies
> 
> >
> >I figured that was A local code, not NEC.  The only reason I 
can think of for that requirement is the ampacity of the 12 or 14 ga 
wires.  While we all know, in actual use, 2 or more outlets strung 
along will not all have 15 amp or higher loads in EACH outlet. 
However, theoretically, each outlet could have A 20 amp load plugged 
into it.That is probably why some pencil pusher decided each outlet 
needs its own wire.  (Never mind the fact the breaker would trip 
regardless of what is plugged into each outlet or the number of wires 
leading to said outlets, but that's another crazy thread) As for the 
Breaker Box, I would assume each also has its own breaker. Trying to 
stuff more than one wire into A breaker would more fun than I care to 
have.  BruceKE5TPN 
> >Dave,
> >
> >This is a code requirement here in my county and think all of 
Florida.
> >
> >The code requirements for building is a county/state issue and 
vary. Most use the NEC code. Many have additional codes such as 
having wind resistance building. The way homes are constructed in the 
north would not be allowed in Florida mainly due to the wind. This is 
why we see so much concrete block construction with lots of 
requirements for attaching to foundation and roof securing. Just 
different part of the US.
> >
> >Same with electric code. For various reasons some additional 
changes are often made. Just because you have a code in your area 
does not mean it is in all of US. It is county mostly with some state 
codes. In my county there were NO building codes until the 70s. Can 
you believe this.
> >
> >73, ron, n9ee/r
> >
> >>From: Dave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>Date: 2008/07/06 Sun AM 11:43:50 EDT
> >>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> >>Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power 
Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards
> >
> >> 
> >>Where is the requirement for running a separate feed to EACH 
OUTLET 
> >>REQUIRED? Not in the US> A "dedicated out is required for certain 
> >>special situations but not for each outlet elsewhere. There are 
certain 
> >>other requirements such as GFCI and AFCI. But, certainly no 
dedicated 
> >>feeder for each out.
> >>
> >>Ron Wright wrote:
> >>> Gary,
> >>>
> >>> I've noticed in panels the safety ground and neutral go to a 
different buss bar. I had thought maybe because the neutral was 
sometimes, not now to code, smaller than the neutral. However, both 
got connected to the panel case. One can Ohm out neutral to safety 
and only see the resistance in the wiring to/from the panel. However, 
as you well know, should not be considered the same.
> >>>
> >>> In most plastic coated wireing I see today the safety wire is 
green coated, but some is still bare as you said. I've seen lots of 
this.
> >>>
> >>> Now in our county following NEC code the safety wire has to be 
same size as neutral . No more of the 14-2 w/G cable, but 14-3 one 
being safety ground color or bare. Also they are doing something 
different, a separate set of wires must be ran between panel and each 
outlet...no more of one wire to one outlet and then from here to 
another outlet, etc. Can you imagine the extra cost and labor. Not 
sure what they do at the breaker panel...put in separate breaker for 
each outlet. Not sure if this NEC code or something to do with the 
hurricane code we have here in Florida. We do lots of construction 
very different here, hi.
> >>>
> >>> 73, ron, n9ee/r
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> 
>  From: Gary Glaenzer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>  Date: 2008/07/06 

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna Gain (WAS antenna question - Dip It and Scotch Kote)

[wb8art]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Custer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> 
> Steve Bosshard wrote:
> > Aluminum gives directivity and pattern - GAIN comes from EIMAC.
> 
> Now THIS guy knows his stuff.
> 
> 4CX250R (Eimac) and 2 metersYea!
>
Yeah 8877 Now your talking

Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft

[wb8art]

Well it won't be broadcasting every 5 minutes! What else?:-)
Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Plack" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> OK, Rob, I'll bite...
>  
> If the cable's been cut, activating the alarm, how will the 
repeater alert you?
>  
> This sounds like a solution I'd come up with, then later 
say, "...d'oh!"
>  
> 73,
> Paul, AE4KR
>   _  
> 
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-
[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Robert Pease
> Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 7:16 AM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> Thats not a bad idea, I was getting tired of the weapon approach, I 
started to think this was a weapon list.
>  
> Hook your alarm to an input on the repeater and it could alert you 
also if someone tampered with it.
>  
> Rob - KS4EC
> 
>   _  
> 
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-
[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Steve
> Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 11:08 AM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> At least here in Kansas we can now have full auto weapons and 
machine guns with silencers, makes security a little quieter.
>  
> Anyway, why not  just wrap your hard-line with burglar alarm tape, 
connected to a dc relay. This would trip a  dc horn or siren (old 
police sirens work well or 28 volt locomotive horns) and halogen 
lights. A nice small camera to record the bad guys crapping their 
pants and away you go.  I know most repeater sights are out in the 
middle of nowhere, but a very loud sound coupled with an intense 
bright light has a tendency to scare the crap out of someone whose 
nerves are all ready wound up tight from doing the crime.  I would 
guess some dna samples could also be picked up from the surrounding 
fence as they took off. 
>  
> OH well my 3 cents worth. 
>  
>  
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: Ron Wright   
> To: Repeater-Builder@  
yahoogroups.com 
> Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 5:50 AM
> Subject: Re: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
> 
> 
> Fire Arms are good if you are there.
> 
> When I was in the Nam we put up "mechnical ambushes" as they were 
called. About 15 claymores along a trail with a trip wire in the 
middle. Only real problem is a FNG who knew nothing wanted so much to 
help and would connect up the battery making the thing go off. Always 
kept the battery in hidden place until needed.
> 
> Well maybe don't need 15 of these critters, but one or two would be 
nice unless you got long run of cable. Just make sure when they do go 
off they do not spray the feedline, tower or equipment building. This 
might take some good engineering, but anyone well trained in fire 
arms should figure it out. (do they have claymore safety classes 
where you are???)
> 
> 73, ron, n9ee/r
> 
> ps Hand grenades can be used in place of claymores. However, 
provide something to shape the charge. Again don't want to damage the 
feedline.
> 
> >From: Wayne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]  com>
> >Date: 2008/04/24 Thu PM 10:44:57 CDT
> >To: Repeater-Builder@  
yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
> 
> > UInless I wind up being able to put mine at the volunteer fire 
station, 
> >it will be here at my home. Three dogs here at night who will make 
a 
> >racket, not to mention a nice 40 caliber magnum revolver. Legal 
enough as 
> >long as I don't carry it concealed.
> > More freedom here in Pecos County...
> >
> > Wayne WA2YNE
> > Imperial, Tejas...
> > 441.950 TX 446.950 RX 167.9
> >
> >
> >On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:15:58 -0500, <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 net> wrote:
> >
> >> Here in Texas you can use deadly force to protect your property, 
day or 
> >> night. Might be a good idea to move to the site for security 
with as big 
> >> a weapon you can handle.
> >>
> >>
> >> David
> >>
> >-
> >
> >-- 
> >Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera. 
 com/mail/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> 
> Ron Wright, N9EE
> 727-376-6575
> MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
> Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
> No tone, all are welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> Since 1974, the award-winning Alpert JFCS has helped families of 
all faiths throughout most of Palm Beach County, FL, via counseling, 
seniors services, residences for the disabled, mentoring children, 
support groups and a lot more. 
> 
> SOLUTIONS FOR LIVING (R)
>   www.JFCSonline.com
>  
> Please take note of our new website and E-Mail Addresses.
> Please update your contacts ASAP.
>  
> 
> 

> 
> NOTICE:
> 
> T

[Repeater-Builder] Re: FW: Dayton and Parts you might need....

[wb8art]

Looks like you should be on 444.85. Nothing close here on that freq.  
Both 12.5 up and down have repeaters closer. Cinci and Troy I beleive.

Randy


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9wys" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> OK, thanks Paul!
> 
>  
> 
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Paul Finch
> Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 1:38 PM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] FW: Dayton and Parts you might 
need
> 
>  
> 
> Mark,
> 
>  
> 
> The repeater is currently on 444.850 transmit and 449.850 Receive, 
the
> normal split.  I am going to move it either up or down 12.5 KHz so 
I don't
> interfere with any repeaters in the area on the normal spilt.  Lets 
say
> right now it's going to be on 444.8625 for now.  I will let you 
know if that
> changes.
> 
>  
> 
> Paul
> 
> WB5IDM
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>   _  
> 
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9wys
> Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 9:12 AM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] FW: Dayton and Parts you might 
need
> 
> Well, Paul, I still don't have my tickets yet, either. although I 
paid for
> them a month ago.
> 
> Been hearing more and more horror stories about how the Hamvention 
is being
> run.
> 
> Also - what will be your repeater split?  I don't think I 
understood your
> statement below.  If a conventional 5MHz split is used, will your 
input be
> 449.850?  Or were you trying to say you'll be on a "12.5 kHz 
splinter freq"
> somewhere near that center freq?
> 
> For others reading this list/thread, I am putting together an Excel
> spreadsheet of freqs that wil most likely be used at Dayton, so I 
can
> program them into my radios.  Feel free to send along any freqs you 
will be
> using so I can add them in!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark - N9WYS
> 
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Paul Finch
> Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 8:01 AM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] FW: Dayton and Parts you might 
need
> 
> Mark,
> 
> Thanks to the Hamvention's wonderful "new" registration system we 
still
> don't have my space numbers.  As soon as I get them I will let all 
of
> message boards know.  I will have a portable repeater there on the 
12.5 KHz
> spit above or below 444.850 MHz on CTCSS of 110.9.   Who know I may 
have a
> flashing beacon on top of the antenna, that is if I have enough 
battery
> power and gas for the generator!
> 
> Paul
> 
> WB5IDM
> 
>   _  
> 
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9wys
> Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 10:21 PM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] FW: Dayton and Parts you might 
need
> 
> So where are these famous brats being sold? This will be my first 
year at
> Dayton, and I want to be sure I take in all the "important" sights 
and
> activities.
> 
> Also, what's the secret Repeater-Builder "handshake" or is the 
group using
> any specific simplex freq? Just so I know who I'm meeting when I get
> there hehehe
> 
> Mark - N9WYS
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>   On Behalf Of Nate Duehr
> 
> Paul Finch wrote:
> 
> I may still fly out, if all the airlines haven't gone under by then.
> 
> I want a braut. ;-)
> 
> Nate WY0X
> 
>  
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1387 - Release Date: 
4/19/2008
> 11:31 AM
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1387 - Release Date: 
4/19/2008
> 11:31 AM
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: 440 de-sense

[wb8art]

Kudos and many thanks to you Jeff, got the filter in yesterday and 
installed it today and seems to have solved the problems. Muchos 
Gratis and see you here in Dayton.  
Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff DePolo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> > Randy,
> > 
> > There could be 2 problems why you get desense. 1.overload by 
> > the other repeater tx, but more likely 2. his wide band tx 
> > noise, down maybe 85 db, is getting into your receiver...the 
> > wide band noise is actually on your rcvr freq.
> 
> I thought about that issue (Tx noise from the repeater) when I 
wrote my
> original reply but didn't bother to comment on it.  The offending
> transmitter is a repeater, transmitting low (444.6) and receiving 
high
> (449.6).  Its duplexer, assuming it's pass/reject, and I can't 
imagine it
> wouldn't be if it's at a commercial site, should provide a fair 
amount of
> noise supression at the vicitim's receive frequencies in the 
446.7ish range,
> though not the full 90 dB or thereabouts that it provides on the 
repeater's
> receive channel at 449.6.  Maybe it's affording 40 dB or so of 
attenuation
> at 446.7 as a WAG.  When combined with the spatial isolation between
> antennas (20 or 30 dB as another WAG), there should be a decent 
amount of
> noise attenuation already.
> 
> In contrast, the victim receivers have no protection from the high-
level
> signal from the repeater transmitter, hence I would expect the lack 
of
> carrier supression to be the first evil to combat.  But, Tx noise 
supression
> via additional filtering on the repeater Tx may ultimately need to 
be added
> later if protecting the receivers from overload doesn't cure the 
problem.
> Again, without having measurement data to work with, it's hard to 
say for
> sure, but starting with filtering on the link Rx's seems like a 
logical
> first step.
> 
>   --- Jeff WN3A
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: 440 de-sense

[wb8art]

That sounds great Jeff and yes I would take it.  If you can ship it I 
would more than reimburse you for the shipping costs.  

email me direct at wb8art at netzero dot com

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff DePolo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> > 
> > Thanks Jeff yes I felt I would need more Q than the stub could 
> > provide. I need to get the measurements but the links should have 
> > plenty of margin so I felt I could suffer some loss. But if some 
one 
> > has one laying around I would entertain trying it. Could you a 
power 
> > divider as well. 
> > 
> > Randy
> 
> For the heck of it, I swept a cavity leftover from a Decibel 
Products
> DB-4076 pass/reject duplexer.  It gives 32 dB rejection at 444.6 
with the
> pass tuned for 446.66 (about mid-way between your two freqs), 
insertion loss
> about 0.7 dB.  A bigger, higher-Q cavity would likely provide more
> attenuation, but if you want this one, you can have it.  It's not 
going to
> win any beauty pagents as far as its cosmetic condition goes, but it
> works...
> 
> For a power divider, since your Rx's are close in frequency, 
they'll provide
> a decent match at both frequencies so you probably don't need any 
isolation
> in the splitter.  You can just use a pair of 75 ohm odd-quarterwave 
cables
> as a power divider.
> 
>   --- Jeff WN3A
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: 440 de-sense

[wb8art]

Thanks Jeff yes I felt I would need more Q than the stub could 
provide. I need to get the measurements but the links should have 
plenty of margin so I felt I could suffer some loss.  But if some one 
has one laying around I would entertain trying it.  Could you a power 
divider as well.  

Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff DePolo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> 
> A quarter-wave stub of coax won't have enough Q to attenuate the 
444.6
> signal without also degrading the 446.x signals as well.  A high-Q
> pass/reject cavity is the way to go.  The bandpass characteristics 
of a
> typical pass/reject cavity should allow both 446.7125 and 446.600 
to pass
> with near-equal attenuation as they are close in frequency, while 
still
> being able to knock down the 444.6 signal about 40 dB or more 
depending on
> loop settings.
> 
> Before going out and spending money, measure how strong the 444.6 
sig is at
> your 446.x receivers.  That will tell you how much rejection you 
really
> need.  If your desired signals are strong, you might only need to 
knock down
> the 444.6 to maybe -20 dBm.  If your 444.6 sigs are marginal, it 
may need to
> be down below -30 dBm, but probably not more than -40 dBm for your 
MVP's.
> I'm assming you're not using a preamp, for if you are, it's 
probably only
> exacerbating the problem.
> 
> You could try using filter sections from a duplexer to do this, but 
most UHF
> duplexers are designed for a 5 MHz split, so you may not be able to 
get the
> notch close enough to the pass (about 2 MHz) without incurring high
> insertion loss at the pass frequencies.  But your paths have enough 
margin,
> maybe you can get away with it.
> 
>   --- Jeff WN3A
> 
> 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chuck Kraly
> > Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 9:04 AM
> > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] 440 de-sense
> > 
> > how about trying a 1/4 wave stub tuned to his freq on your 
> > rcv line? That is IF it is coming in there. or is it coming 
> > in thru the wiring?
> > Chuck K0XM
> > 
> > 
> > On Thu, Mar 6, 2008 at 7:57 AM, wb8art <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Hi,  I have a slight problem with a 444.6 output 
> > repeater and looking
> > for the best and low cost approach to fix.  We have 
> > just moved to the
> > site and the owner has the 440 repeater.  The ants are 
> > all at the same
> > height and hence we only have a small amount of horiz 
> > separation.  We
> > can't change this as on cell tower as part of the 
> > owners deal for the
> > site.  So what it is, is it.  We link the the site on 
> > 446.7125 and
> > 446.60, and his repeater at 10 watts, is DE-sensing our 
> > receivers
> > which are GE MVP's.  Guess looking to the experts on best 
viable
> > solution.  I have been able to try anything yet but 
> > have considered a
> > mobile duplexer as an option.
> > 
> > Thanks Randy
>

[Repeater-Builder] 440 de-sense

[wb8art]

Hi,  I have a slight problem with a 444.6 output repeater and looking 
for the best and low cost approach to fix.  We have just moved to the 
site and the owner has the 440 repeater.  The ants are all at the same 
height and hence we only have a small amount of horiz separation.  We 
can't change this as on cell tower as part of the owners deal for the 
site.  So what it is, is it.  We link the the site on 446.7125 and 
446.60, and his repeater at 10 watts, is DE-sensing our receivers 
which are GE MVP's.  Guess looking to the experts on best viable 
solution.  I have been able to try anything yet but have considered a 
mobile duplexer as an option.

Thanks Randy

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Problem with C16 on RFPA board in VHF HB MVP

[wb8art]

I would replace the .1 uf & 150 pF at same time and try again.

Randy


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> I've had a 6.8 µF 35 V capacitor burn up on the GE VHF HB MVP.  
This is a 
> filter cap. for the final PA DC voltage, in parallel with 0.1 µF & 
150 pF 
> caps.  I replaced it just before Dayton & noticed that the 
replacement got 
> rather warm (too hot to touch), so I did a 2 hour burn-in.  It 
survived 
> just fine, so I concluded that the cap. was simply conducting heat 
up from 
> the PA board.  The radio worked fine at Dayton, & I've been doing 
some more 
> testing at home in preparation for an installation in about 3 weeks.
> 
> This evening after TXing for only ~5 minutes, smoke began to pour 
out the 
> back of the radio.  After carrying it to the garage to open it, I 
found C16 
> charred once again.  My first suspicion was (very) low frequency 
> oscillation of the RFPA, but if this were the case I think I'd be 
> experiencing desense, RF feedback & other oddities during testing.  
I'll 
> check it on the spectrum analyzer tomorrow (after it's somewhat 
> "deodorized"), but I doubt it's spurious.
> 
> Any other ideas as to what would cause this cap. to repeatedly fail?
> 
> Bob NO6B
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: GM300 - 433MHz?

[wb8art]

Hum so your saying law office is a landfill?  :-) 

 "Paul Plack"  wrote:
>
> You guys are just looking in the wrong place. You need to go 
computer shopping at a landfill!
> I have an old 386 SX 16 running DOS 6.2. I keep it around just for 
these eventualities. I built it in the early 1990s from a motherboard 
cast off in a law office upgrade. Still works great. I have an old 
DTMF dialer I wrote in basic and compiled into an exe file, and it 
runs better on the older 28.8 modems.
> 
> I do worry about floppies becoming obsolete.
> 
> 73,
> Paul, AE4KR
> 
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: n9wys 
>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:30 AM
>   Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] GM300 - 433MHz?
> 
> 
> 
>   It may not run well on that fast of a machine. remember that old 
DOS software used clock pulses from the computer for timing. But it 
might at least be worth a try.  Let us know, Ric, If it DOES work OK 
that way (DOS boot disk on fast machine)!!
> 
> 
> 
>   I need to come up with some options for the future - I'm not sure 
how much longer I can keep my old AMD K6-2/350 machine going.  
> 
> 
> 
>   Mark - N9WYS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
--
> 
>   From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-
[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Russ Crisp
>   Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 12:42 PM
>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>   Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] GM300 - 433MHz?
> 
> 
> 
>   Hey Rick,
> 
> 
> 
>   You can format a floppy with / using an old DOS computer, and 
make a DOS boot disk.  May be able to download one from 
bootdisks.com.  Then insert the floppy with RSS and run it.
> 
>   Works for me.
> 
> 
> 
>   73's
> 
>   Russ
> 
>   K4RCC
> 
> 
> 
>   From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-
[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rick T
>   Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 1:40 PM
>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>   Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] GM300 - 433MHz?
> 
> 
> 
>   Thanks for the info guys... Sounds easy enough.
> 
> 
> 
>   2nd question Will the DOS programming software work in a DOS 
window under XP? I have my suspicions that it won't. That means I 
need to convert one of my old machines to DOS only. (yuk)!
> 
> 
> 
>   Rick - W7VTM
> 
> 
> 
>   - Original Message 
>   From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 12:44:44 PM
>   Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] GM300 - 433MHz?
> 
>   Remember also while using the "shift"method to fill in the entire 
freq area including the trailing zeros.
> 
>   Glenn
> 
>   W8AK
> 
> 
> 
>   In a message dated 1/13/2008 1:39:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] net writes:
> 
> Rick
> 
> Kevin is correct - you can try the "SHIFT Entry" method, except 
do NOT hold down the shift key when entering the decimal point.  For 
example, a frequency of 433.1750 would appear as follows:  $##.!&%)  
(notice the decimal).  Should work OK for your application.  But 
Kevin is correct - check the BatLabs pages first to be absolutely 
certain.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Mark - N9WYS
> 
> 
> 

> 
> From: Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com On Behalf Of Gmail - 
Home
> 
> The answer is "YES" but you need to do a few things to get it 
there.
> 
> Best would be to check out the information on www.batlabs. com 
and click on the GM300 link.
> 
> You need of course the Motorola programming software and 
interface, and when you want to program a new frequency, in your case 
433Mhz, you have to hold the shift key down for the whole frequency, 
so it would be $##))). It's been awhile since I have done one, so I 
am only going off memory, thats why I suggest looking at Batlabs.
> 
> Best of luck
> 
> Kevin, ZL1KFM.
> 
>   - Original Message - 
> 
>   From: w7vtm 
> 
>   I have a Motorola GM300 that has a frequency range of 438MHz 
to 470MHz. 
>   Is it possible to program these radios down to 433MHz? Or, 
how low can 
>   these radios go?
> 
>   Thanks,
>   Rick - W7VTM 
> 
> 
> 
>   Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape in the new 
year. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
--
> 
>   Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with 
Yahoo! Search.
>

[Repeater-Builder] TS 64 and voter

[wb8art]

Hi,  Anyone here tried using a TS64 after a voter.  I can see were 
decoding would chop in and out, as it changes between site selected, 
but thought we would ask the group. 


Randy

[Repeater-Builder] Re: MastrII Mobil repeater spur

[wb8art]

QSL Jim and yes I am aware of RUS & CAS and with the dual squelch mod 
as have been running MastrII mobils for years as repeater and MVP's 
for remote RX and links. Kind wished the P&S unit was set to loop out 
to a voter and back.  Guess we can roll our own. Still to looking for 
the controller in the station upgrade. 

Thanks and Merry Xmas and all
Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Yep - I used the info on the Repeater-Builder site to
> identify the pick off points where the signals are
> found, and soldered directly to the backside of the
> pin that the boards plug into on the other side.  You
> can figure out which points they are by looking at a
> schematic of the card cage also.  But it was all laid
> out in the note on the RB site.
> 
> By the way, if you have not noticed it yet, the RUS
> signal on a GE system is a combination of the COS and
> CTCSS signals, and works great as the COS input to
> your controller.  It shows a slight delay coming up
> (while the CTCSS decoder locks up) but turns off
> instantly when the COS goes down.  This allows you to
> use a stock GE CTCSS board plugged into the receiver
> system board.  Conversely, if your controller can use
> both COS and CTCSS detects, Hook up the COS direct to
> the controller and hook the RUS signal up as the tone
> detect.  They both go positive when active.
> 
> Also, be sure to do the squelch mod documented on the
> RB site. You will be very pleased with the results. 
> If you use a stock SAS board from a station, it will
> cause a lot of pops and such in the audio as the COS
> goes up and down when a station is picket fencing. 
> The squelch mod completely eliminates that problem. 
> You may find the caps already installed, but the .82
> cap needs to be replaced with the larger value.  I
> have found several boards from stations that did not
> have one of the caps installed at all.
> 
> 73 - Jim  W5ZIT
> 
> --- wb8art <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > Hi Jim,  So you just solder wires onto the back
> > plane circuit board?  
> > I quess this is my quest to see where most people
> > connect to the 
> > repeater.  
> > 
> > Randy
> 
> 
> 
>   
__
__
> Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: MastrII Mobil repeater spur

[wb8art]

I will look into that when we get a chance. Thanks for the thought.
Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Randy,
> 
> I've experienced problems similar to what you describe on several 
MII and found it to be harmonic noise on the  ptt  (osc 10v) line.  
Installing a >10 uh inductor  where the line enters the exciter pcb 
did wonders for mine. You may also want to install a pair of 
inductors on the 12v lines in the PA (at the feed through caps). The 
original GE design has  this on a number of their PAs.
> 
> While, once I did have a spur that required me to move the entire 
mobile radio away from another mobile cased unit, I've never had a 
desense problem internally between the tx and rx in a mobile. NO6B 
may want to revisit his problem MII and look at the ptt line. He may 
be pleasantly surprised.
> 
> -Steve
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: wb8art 
>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 4:44 AM
>   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MastrII Mobil repeater spur
> 
> 
>   Thanks Bob & Paul for the response.  Yes it is the unit with the 
>   compensation line running between all ICOMS.  This is kind of 
where I 
>   have been leaning to.. Course the consternation is that its been 
>   working for a long time without an issue or at least one on that 
>   freq.  It may have just moved to a location to be noticed. I will 
>   purse it some more and Bob I suspect you maybe ahead of us on 
this.  
>   I have a station I am working on to replace the mobiles so may 
not 
>   worry about this to long.  
>   Question while on the topic.  How do you guys generally connect 
the 
>   controller to a station?  Do you get the Molex connectors and 
pins or 
>   what exactly?  If so, you have a easy source on and nos. for the 
pins 
>   and plugs?  
> 
>   Thanks Randy
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Plack"  
>   wrote:
>   >
>   > Randy,
>   >
>   > I'm trying to recall...is this a rig where one ICOM has the 
>   temperature compensation network, and develops a control voltage 
>   which is then distributed and shared by all the other ICOMs in 
the 
>   radio? If so, and the problem just showed up one day, perhaps 
there's 
>   some RF bypass cap or other component that's failed within the 
ICOM 
>   itself, allowing RF to travel that DC temperature control line.
>   > 
>   > It's been 10 years since my last MII mobile conversion, so the 
>   memories are somewhat dusty, but I'd try another ICOM to see.
>   > 
>   > 73,
>   > Paul, AE4KR
>   > 
>   >   - Original Message - 
>   >   From: wb8art 
>   >   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>   >   Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 6:06 AM
>   >   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MastrII Mobil repeater spur
>   > 
>   > 
>   >   One for the wonderfull experts here. I have been working to 
many 
>   >   nights this week to be able to think straight.
>   > 
>   >   Our MastrII converted mobil developed a spur problem last 
nite. 
>   Were 
>   >   on 145.43 and the spur was on 145.11. Very strong and subbing 
in 
>   a 
>   >   standy unit produced the same results. The only components 
used 
>   in 
>   >   both are the ICOMs and the stock tone card (used to encode 
tone 
>   >   only). The fix was to pull the reciever ICOM (144.83)killing 
the 
>   >   local rx. Guys what are your thoughts on this and the 
possible 
>   fix.
>   > 
>   >   Randy
>   >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
>   Yahoo! Groups Links
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: MastrII Mobil repeater spur

[wb8art]

Hi Jim,  So you just solder wires onto the back plane circuit board?  
I quess this is my quest to see where most people connect to the 
repeater.  

Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Randy, a method I have used a couple of times is to
> take an old computer card back-panel with a cutout for
> a 9 or 25 pin connector and bend it so that it picks
> up a couple of screws on the rear of the card cage top
> or bottom. (You kept those and did not throw them away
> did'nt you) I then wired the various points on the
> card cage back to pins on the connector and interfaced
> it that way.  
> 
> I have even used a standard 25 pin computer serial
> cable to connect between one of Ron Wright's RC-1000
> controllers and a 25 pin connector I installed this
> way.  Makes a pretty clean installation, although one
> of the controller manufacturers on here recommended
> against using computer serial cables as interconnects
> for controllers - HI.  Worked fine for me though -
> 
> 73 - Jim  W5ZIT
> 
> --- wb8art <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > Yes I checked power levels and change in power has
> > no effect on the 
> > issue.  Yes see where the connections are on a
> > station/repeater.  
> > More a question of how of it.  With Molex connectors
> > on backplane or 
> > what works the best?
> > 
> > Randy
> 
> 
> 
>   
__
__
> Be a better friend, newshound, and 
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: MastrII Mobil repeater spur

[wb8art]

Yes I checked power levels and change in power has no effect on the 
issue.  Yes see where the connections are on a station/repeater.  
More a question of how of it.  With Molex connectors on backplane or 
what works the best?

Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> If the spur is causing a particular problem to someone
> and is caused by some harmonic of the LO chain beating
> with the transmitter, you could move the beat by
> changing to the opposite side injection on the
> receiver.  Check the new beat frequencies to make sure
> you are not just trading one problem for another.
> 
> Another possible source of a spur is if you have
> reduced the power output of the final amp below about
> 60% of full power.  Some amps will not tolerate
> running below rated output without developing spurs.
> 
> By the way, check the Repeater-Builder web site for
> suggestions on where to connect your controller to the
> backplane on the GE Station.
> 
> 73 - Jim  W5ZIT
> 
> --- wb8art <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > Thanks Bob & Paul for the response.  Yes it is the
> > unit with the 
> > compensation line running between all ICOMS.  This
> > is kind of where I 
> > have been leaning to.. Course the consternation is
> > that its been 
> > working for a long time without an issue or at least
> > one on that 
> > freq.  It may have just moved to a location to be
> > noticed. I will 
> > purse it some more and Bob I suspect you maybe ahead
> > of us on this.  
> > I have a station I am working on to replace the
> > mobiles so may not 
> > worry about this to long.  
> > Question while on the topic.  How do you guys
> > generally connect the 
> > controller to a station?  Do you get the Molex
> > connectors and pins or 
> > what exactly?  If so, you have a easy source on and
> > nos. for the pins 
> > and plugs?  
> > 
> > Thanks Randy
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Paul
> > Plack"  
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Randy,
> > > 
> > > I'm trying to recall...is this a rig where one
> > ICOM has the 
> > temperature compensation network, and develops a
> > control voltage 
> > which is then distributed and shared by all the
> > other ICOMs in the 
> > radio? If so, and the problem just showed up one
> > day, perhaps there's 
> > some RF bypass cap or other component that's failed
> > within the ICOM 
> > itself, allowing RF to travel that DC temperature
> > control line.
> > > 
> > > It's been 10 years since my last MII mobile
> > conversion, so the 
> > memories are somewhat dusty, but I'd try another
> > ICOM to see.
> > > 
> > > 73,
> > > Paul, AE4KR
> > > 
> > >   - Original Message - 
> > >   From: wb8art 
> > >   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
> > >   Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 6:06 AM
> > >   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MastrII Mobil
> > repeater spur
> > > 
> > > 
> > >   One for the wonderfull experts here. I have been
> > working to many 
> > >   nights this week to be able to think straight.
> > > 
> > >   Our MastrII converted mobil developed a spur
> > problem last nite. 
> > Were 
> > >   on 145.43 and the spur was on 145.11. Very
> > strong and subbing in 
> > a 
> > >   standy unit produced the same results. The only
> > components used 
> > in 
> > >   both are the ICOMs and the stock tone card (used
> > to encode tone 
> > >   only). The fix was to pull the reciever ICOM
> > (144.83)killing the 
> > >   local rx. Guys what are your thoughts on this
> > and the possible 
> > fix.
> > > 
> > >   Randy
> > >
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
>   
__
__
> Be a better friend, newshound, and 
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: MastrII Mobil repeater spur

[wb8art]

Yeah Thanks Paul,  Although my question was related to a station or 
repeater not a converted mobil.

Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Plack" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Randy,
> 
> The conversion I did was based on instructions from the guy who 
sold the radios, out of a shop in Colorado or Wyoming, if I 
recall...he suggested just running the controller cable through a 
hole in the front of the rig, and soldering the wires inside the 
radio. I did that, put a DB25 plug on the cable to mate with the 7K, 
and it worked out fine.
> 
> His conversions also called for removing the audio transformer from 
the receiver, and I was glad I did that one. Less weight, less 
current draw on receive.
> 
> That mobile conversion went on the air on 442.250 in Orlando as 
AE4KR/R in about 1995. i left it with friends when I moved away in 
1997. It ate a PA in 2004, but is otherwise still running fine, now 
known as AE4KO/R. (Yep - Aaron and I got our Extra Class tickets in 
the same VE session!)
> 
> 73,
> Paul, AE4KR
> 
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: wb8art 
>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 4:44 AM
>   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MastrII Mobil repeater spur
> 
> 
>   Thanks Bob & Paul for the response. Yes it is the unit with the 
>   compensation line running between all ICOMS. This is kind of 
where I 
>   have been leaning to.. Course the consternation is that its been 
>   working for a long time without an issue or at least one on that 
>   freq. It may have just moved to a location to be noticed. I will 
>   purse it some more and Bob I suspect you maybe ahead of us on 
this. 
>   I have a station I am working on to replace the mobiles so may 
not 
>   worry about this to long. 
>   Question while on the topic. How do you guys generally connect 
the 
>   controller to a station? Do you get the Molex connectors and pins 
or 
>   what exactly? If so, you have a easy source on and nos. for the 
pins 
>   and plugs? 
> 
>   Thanks Randy
> 
>   --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Plack"  
>   wrote:
>   >
>   > Randy,
>   > 
>   > I'm trying to recall...is this a rig where one ICOM has the 
>   temperature compensation network, and develops a control voltage 
>   which is then distributed and shared by all the other ICOMs in 
the 
>   radio? If so, and the problem just showed up one day, perhaps 
there's 
>   some RF bypass cap or other component that's failed within the 
ICOM 
>   itself, allowing RF to travel that DC temperature control line.
>   > 
>   > It's been 10 years since my last MII mobile conversion, so the 
>   memories are somewhat dusty, but I'd try another ICOM to see.
>   > 
>   > 73,
>   > Paul, AE4KR
>   > 
>   > - Original Message - 
>   > From: wb8art 
>   > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>   > Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 6:06 AM
>   > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MastrII Mobil repeater spur
>   > 
>   > 
>   > One for the wonderfull experts here. I have been working to 
many 
>   > nights this week to be able to think straight.
>   > 
>   > Our MastrII converted mobil developed a spur problem last nite. 
>   Were 
>   > on 145.43 and the spur was on 145.11. Very strong and subbing 
in 
>   a 
>   > standy unit produced the same results. The only components used 
>   in 
>   > both are the ICOMs and the stock tone card (used to encode tone 
>   > only). The fix was to pull the reciever ICOM (144.83)killing 
the 
>   > local rx. Guys what are your thoughts on this and the possible 
>   fix.
>   > 
>   > Randy
>   >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: MastrII Mobil repeater spur

[wb8art]

Thanks Bob & Paul for the response.  Yes it is the unit with the 
compensation line running between all ICOMS.  This is kind of where I 
have been leaning to.. Course the consternation is that its been 
working for a long time without an issue or at least one on that 
freq.  It may have just moved to a location to be noticed. I will 
purse it some more and Bob I suspect you maybe ahead of us on this.  
I have a station I am working on to replace the mobiles so may not 
worry about this to long.  
Question while on the topic.  How do you guys generally connect the 
controller to a station?  Do you get the Molex connectors and pins or 
what exactly?  If so, you have a easy source on and nos. for the pins 
and plugs?  

Thanks Randy




--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Plack" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Randy,
> 
> I'm trying to recall...is this a rig where one ICOM has the 
temperature compensation network, and develops a control voltage 
which is then distributed and shared by all the other ICOMs in the 
radio? If so, and the problem just showed up one day, perhaps there's 
some RF bypass cap or other component that's failed within the ICOM 
itself, allowing RF to travel that DC temperature control line.
> 
> It's been 10 years since my last MII mobile conversion, so the 
memories are somewhat dusty, but I'd try another ICOM to see.
> 
> 73,
> Paul, AE4KR
> 
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: wb8art 
>   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 6:06 AM
>   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MastrII Mobil repeater spur
> 
> 
>   One for the wonderfull experts here. I have been working to many 
>   nights this week to be able to think straight.
> 
>   Our MastrII converted mobil developed a spur problem last nite. 
Were 
>   on 145.43 and the spur was on 145.11. Very strong and subbing in 
a 
>   standy unit produced the same results. The only components used 
in 
>   both are the ICOMs and the stock tone card (used to encode tone 
>   only). The fix was to pull the reciever ICOM (144.83)killing the 
>   local rx. Guys what are your thoughts on this and the possible 
fix.
> 
>   Randy
>

[Repeater-Builder] MastrII Mobil repeater spur

[wb8art]

One for the wonderfull experts here.  I have been working to many 
nights this week to be able to think straight.

Our MastrII converted mobil developed a spur problem last nite.  Were 
on 145.43 and the spur was on 145.11.  Very strong and subbing in a 
standy unit produced the same results.  The only components used in 
both are the ICOMs and the stock tone card (used to encode tone 
only).  The fix was to pull the reciever ICOM (144.83)killing the 
local rx.  Guys what are your thoughts on this and the possible fix.

Randy

[Repeater-Builder] Re: crackle in a repeater tower

[wb8art]

Ian, Are the guys on this tower or is it self support?  We had a 
simular problem with stranded guys. Changed the guys to Phillystran 
to solve it. 
Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Wells" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
>  Hi guys .Is there a way that you can locate loose bolts or 
fittings in a
> tower by having a transmitter txing on the tower and checking the 
tower with
> a spectrum anayzler with a beam for interference on other 
frequencies .I
> have a tower that crackles through VHF repeaters that are 
operating on the
> site and sometimes it affects uhf repeaters on site as well but i 
still
> havent found where it is coming from .It has to be something loose 
as it is
> worst on windy days any sugestions would be great 
>  
> Thank You,
> Ian Wells,
> Kerinvale Comaudio,
> www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au
>









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: UHF Power

[wb8art]

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kris Kirby <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> On Sun, 12 Feb 2006, Chuck Kelsey wrote:
> > typical mobile installation? Maybe not. Do we DESIRE to run a 
certain 
> > level because we can? Sure, just like we may want to install a 
100KW 
> > generator on site to run 3KW of load. That's fine if you can 
afford it, 
> > I suppose. My point was "is it needed?"
> 
> This is digressing, but if it's a diesel, you don't want a 100KW 
generator 
> running a 3KW load or it will wet stack. 
> 
> http://www.allworlddieselgen.com/faq.htm (sales page)
> 
> Quote:
> 2) A diesel engine is subject to "wet stacking" or over fueling if 
run for 
> long periods of time with ultra light loads (less than 40% of the 
rated 
> output). "Wet Stacking" causes the engine to smoke and run rough 
because 
> the injectors become carbonized. Running a heavy load will usually 
clean 
> up the over-fuel condition and allow the engine to perform 
normally. 
> Diesel engines operate better and more fuel efficient when loaded 
(70-80% 
> is optimum).
> 
> But again, I digress. 
> 
> --
> Kris Kirby, KE4AHR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>"BIG BROTHER IS WATCHING YOU!"
>  This message brought to you by the US Department of Homeland 
Security
>
While we are digressing, I guess all them sleeping truckers are Wet 
Stacking too.







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Fixing Stationmaster

[wb8art]

Joe, If you can get hold of a TDR that worked well for us to find the 
problem.  If also is a easy method to test for antenna problems while 
still on the tower.  We had a Stationmaster with a bad solder joint 
and it was causing desense in windy days.  Found and fixed with the 
TDR.  Also we had problems with guy wires causing noise in the system 
and fixed finally by installing Phylistran guys.
Randy

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Joe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>  I have a stationmaster in the garage that is noisy.  It came off 
the local club repeater and replacing it made our noise problem go 
away. I've taken it apart and inspected it for cracks in the joints 
but can't find any.  I've been thinking of sending a 12VDC voltage 
through it using a ballast resistor and looking for the warm joint 
with a handheld thermometer we just got at work.  With enough current 
going through the joints, I should be able to detect the bad joint.
> 
> Any other ideas?
> 
> Joe
>  skipp025 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
> > 
> > I've had the same problem caused by an old station master. 
> > We swapped it out and the new antenna fixed the problem










 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: COS Circuit, my mind is blank

[wb8art]

Sounds like to much playing to me:-) 7 kids:-)
Randy

Mathew Quaife <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I thought that would work, even tried the locked band but that did 
not work.  So I decided I am just going to get some squelch circuits 
and use them.  If I had more time I would build them, but time for me 
is very little and when I start if I don't finish and I come back, I 
forget where I am at.  96 hours a week at two jobs and 7 kids does
not 
allow much time for play, hihi.  It's been a number of years since I 
have built anything on a circuit board, and most of what I had
learned 
has been lost due to a disease called CRS.  So if anyone has 4
squelch 
circuits lying around and can make the cost cheaper than the NHRC 
units, I'd be interested so long as they can give me the 8 volts that 
I need.
>  
> Mathew










 
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[Repeater-Builder] MVP TOT

[wb8art]

Hi anyone have a LBI for the 19C327572G timer in a MVP?
Randy










 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: HELP!

[wb8art]

More likely CH.18 as CH.19 is 151.25 pix carrier.

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, DCFluX <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> How bad were you clobering CH.19?
> 
> 
> On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 19:26:22 -0500, Q <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > 
> > I intend to kill that Beast! Seems the local cable company had 
two
> > bucket trucks working in my block today(at my pleading)and all 
is quiet
> > at the moment.must have been how I worded my request!~
> > 
> > DCFluX wrote:
> > 
> > >Sounds like "The Beast" payed you a visit.  For a fun and 
ammusing
> > >test, hook a handie talkie to the duplexers TX port and key it 
on low
> > >power on your TX freqency.  This should drown your reciever into
> > >oblivion with noise no matter what the power level.
> > >
> > >Borrow a spectrum analyzer and watch as broadband noise rises + 
and -
> > >600kHz from your carrier as you key up.
> > >
> > >An even funner experiment is to get s 7 element beam with a step
> > >attenuator and hook it to a hand held and put it on your RX 
frequency
> > >and force the repeater into key down mode.  Walk about a block 
from
> > >your antenna and watch in amazement as all the interference is 
coming
> > >from your house.
> > >
> > >I am betting that there are two FM stations that are 600kHz 
apart,
> > >Sit down with a FM reciever and plot out the band to see who is 
who.
> > >Then you can check the vast wasteland of the FCC database to 
determine
> > >what power people are running.  You need to find the mixer, 
which
> > >could be anything from a clock radio to an electric blanket.
> > >
> > >Changing the antenna doesn't work either, I've tried a Station 
Master,
> > >DB-264, Larsen  Magnet Mount and even a coat hanger ground 
plane with
> > >no changes in the interference.
> > >
> > >We were never able to solve the problem so we had to adopt 
split site.
> > >
> > >We are followers of "The Beast", and you are one of us now.
> > >
> > >--Matt
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > 
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >










 
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[Repeater-Builder] Remote receiver

[wb8art]

I wonder if anyone has a simple controller for a remote receiver. I 
have put a 2 mtr receiver in with a UHF TX in a MVP package.  I need 
it to ID and switch PL when ID'ng so as to ID only in off time. 
Thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.  

Randy WB8ART 










 
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