Re: [Repeater-Builder] cleaning electronics
May I sugguest picking up a book on soldering techniques @ a electronics store, public libary or college libary that teaches electronics ? a school I can reccomend is http://www.cie-wc.edu if anyone wants to pick up additional courses or even a degree you may find the school may help with areas of interest. BTW I am a student there. 73 mark h. Adam T. Cately wrote: At 03:46 PM 1/3/06 -0800, you wrote: Want to know my trick for quickly removing components from scrap PC boards? Fred, AE6QL ...Something on the line of a butane torch, and a bucket to catch the falling components?.. AND - this necessitates the question - do you want to RE-USE the components when you'se done, because a good sharp shovel works OK, too... (No - I'm NOT from New Jersey - I just play one on TV.) - Adam - Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ -- MZ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. begin:vcard fn:Mark A. Holman n:Holman;Mark A. email;internet:[EMAIL PROTECTED] title:Webmaster, IT Student note;quoted-printable:IT, Student Member IEEE, Life Member ARRL, Assoc. Member SBE, CRO, ARRL= VE=0D=0A= Welcome to the Snowy stuff of Michigan=0D=0A= x-mozilla-html:TRUE url:http://www.ab8ru.org version:2.1 end:vcard
Re: [Repeater-Builder] cleaning electronics
At 04:04 AM 1/5/06 -0800, you wrote: > >"Adam T. Cately" wrote: > > ... snip ... > >>(No - I'm NOT from New Jersey - I just play one on TV.) > > > It loses all the funny when you have to explain, but... In regard to the use of the made-up-word "you'se" - as in, "Hey, you'se guys over dere needs to move dese rocks over hee-uh." See? - it's not funny now. (probably wasn't before, either) - Adam - Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] cleaning electronics
"Adam T. Cately" wrote: ... snip ... >(No - I'm NOT from New Jersey - I just play one on TV.) >- Adam - Neil - WA6KLA Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] cleaning electronics
At 03:46 PM 1/3/06 -0800, you wrote: >> >Want to know my trick for quickly removing components from scrap PC boards? > >Fred, AE6QL ...Something on the line of a butane torch, and a bucket to catch the falling components?.. AND - this necessitates the question - do you want to RE-USE the components when you'se done, because a good sharp shovel works OK, too... (No - I'm NOT from New Jersey - I just play one on TV.) - Adam - Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] cleaning electronics
In this area, Waterloo Ontario, we often took the old tube rigs, after removing the tubes, to the self serve car wash and "Hosed" them down...then used the oven to dry them...waited a few days and they worked great ! We made a "Video" of this procedure for a Ham convention that was held in this area :-)) John VE3AMZ. - Original Message - From: "Neil McKie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 10:15 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] cleaning electronics > > Forty someodd years ago, we were using the slightly older Motorola > 80D and 140D's as mobiles. Cleaing them was a farily simple task: > > First stop was the local hospital supply and bought a package of > Haemo-sol ... the stuff the hospitals used to clean dried blood > from bed sheets etc. > > Next, we removed the individual receiver, transmitter and power > supply chassis' from the mobile package - then took off the > individual covers from the transmitter chassis. > > Into the kitchen sink using the hotest water we could stand and > Haemo-sol. Using an acid brush, we washed off the accumulated dirt > and grime. > > Rinsing with hot water too, several times. > > To dry, we set the chassis in the oven - temperature set at about > 180 degrees and proped the door open a bit with an empty tin can - > let the moisture escape. > > Clean and dry, we retubed the strips, fired them up and retuned > them to our frequencies. > > Worked very well for us. > > The mobile housings were washed, rust removed, primed and > repainted ... with Motorola Part numbered paint. I found a couple > of those rattle cans in my garage recently. > > Mike, do you need the part numbers? > > Neil - WA6KLA > > > skipp025 wrote: > > > > Hi Fred, > > > > > Fred Townsend <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > I'd like to second Skipps comments and add one of my > > > own. At the factory we used ordinary dish washers (until > > > we got the commercial washers) to clean PC boards. > > > > Also guilty of doing said... although I don't use the > > dishwasher for electronics parts any more. > > > > > Spic and Span is a little harsh. For general cleaning, > > > including automatic dish washers, useArm and Hammer > > > baking soda. > > > > I use Palmolive Liquid Dish Soap in warm water for the > > more sensitive stuff. I've tried and used Spic and Span, > > TSP, Pine-Sol (or equiv) and 409 on the more mechanical > > items. It's hard to beat the grease cutting power of > > original powder Spic-and-Span. "Why that micor cabinet > > looks almost new... " > > > > For some sensitive electronics items (like variable caps), > > a tumble in crushed Walnut shells does the trick. Now the > > shells are replaced with plasitic cleaning media bought > > from local gun stores. > > > > > If you think someone has used an acid flux (sometimes > > > necessary to solder nickel or steel) clean with ammonia > > > before the baking soda. Finally if you have rosin flux > > > isopropyl alcohol works well. Don't use rubbing alcohol > > > (contains water) or use alcohol in the automatic dish > > > washer (it will burn). > > > Fred AE6QL > > > > Thanks Fred... for dry solder flux I've been using Acetone > > on a sturdy Q-Tip. > > > > All these hints are very handy to know. > > > > 73's > > skipp > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] cleaning electronics
Forty someodd years ago, we were using the slightly older Motorola 80D and 140D's as mobiles. Cleaing them was a farily simple task: First stop was the local hospital supply and bought a package of Haemo-sol ... the stuff the hospitals used to clean dried blood from bed sheets etc. Next, we removed the individual receiver, transmitter and power supply chassis' from the mobile package - then took off the individual covers from the transmitter chassis. Into the kitchen sink using the hotest water we could stand and Haemo-sol. Using an acid brush, we washed off the accumulated dirt and grime. Rinsing with hot water too, several times. To dry, we set the chassis in the oven - temperature set at about 180 degrees and proped the door open a bit with an empty tin can - let the moisture escape. Clean and dry, we retubed the strips, fired them up and retuned them to our frequencies. Worked very well for us. The mobile housings were washed, rust removed, primed and repainted ... with Motorola Part numbered paint. I found a couple of those rattle cans in my garage recently. Mike, do you need the part numbers? Neil - WA6KLA skipp025 wrote: > > Hi Fred, > > > Fred Townsend <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I'd like to second Skipps comments and add one of my > > own. At the factory we used ordinary dish washers (until > > we got the commercial washers) to clean PC boards. > > Also guilty of doing said... although I don't use the > dishwasher for electronics parts any more. > > > Spic and Span is a little harsh. For general cleaning, > > including automatic dish washers, useArm and Hammer > > baking soda. > > I use Palmolive Liquid Dish Soap in warm water for the > more sensitive stuff. I've tried and used Spic and Span, > TSP, Pine-Sol (or equiv) and 409 on the more mechanical > items. It's hard to beat the grease cutting power of > original powder Spic-and-Span. "Why that micor cabinet > looks almost new... " > > For some sensitive electronics items (like variable caps), > a tumble in crushed Walnut shells does the trick. Now the > shells are replaced with plasitic cleaning media bought > from local gun stores. > > > If you think someone has used an acid flux (sometimes > > necessary to solder nickel or steel) clean with ammonia > > before the baking soda. Finally if you have rosin flux > > isopropyl alcohol works well. Don't use rubbing alcohol > > (contains water) or use alcohol in the automatic dish > > washer (it will burn). > > Fred AE6QL > > Thanks Fred... for dry solder flux I've been using Acetone > on a sturdy Q-Tip. > > All these hints are very handy to know. > > 73's > skipp > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] cleaning electronics
skipp025 wrote: Hi Fred, Fred Townsend <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I'd like to second Skipps comments and add one of my own. At the factory we used ordinary dish washers (until we got the commercial washers) to clean PC boards. Also guilty of doing said... although I don't use the dishwasher for electronics parts any more. Spic and Span is a little harsh. For general cleaning, including automatic dish washers, useArm and Hammer baking soda. I use Palmolive Liquid Dish Soap in warm water for the more sensitive stuff. I've tried and used Spic and Span, TSP, Pine-Sol (or equiv) and 409 on the more mechanical items. It's hard to beat the grease cutting power of original powder Spic-and-Span. "Why that micor cabinet looks almost new... " Spic and Span contains TSP and is slightly acidic. Never checked Pine-Sol. 409 is quite basic so it cuts grease well but can be hard on some things. For some sensitive electronics items (like variable caps), a tumble in crushed Walnut shells does the trick. Now the shells are replaced with plasitic cleaning media bought from local gun stores. And if it doesn't work when you are through you pull out the shot gun and blow it to hell. I have been tempted a few times. If you think someone has used an acid flux (sometimes necessary to solder nickel or steel) clean with ammonia before the baking soda. Finally if you have rosin flux isopropyl alcohol works well. Don't use rubbing alcohol (contains water) or use alcohol in the automatic dish washer (it will burn). Fred AE6QL Thanks Fred... for dry solder flux I've been using Acetone on a sturdy Q-Tip. Tilt! Have you noticed a white film on the PCB? I have taken acetone off several assembly lines because it effects plastics, particularly polystyrene. Since many capacitors use plastics for either case or dielectric it can cause latent defects taking years to show up. All these hints are very handy to know. Want to know my trick for quickly removing components from scrap PC boards? Fred, AE6QL 73's skipp Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ --- Text inserted by Panda Platinum 2006 Internet Security: This message has NOT been classified as spam. If it is unsolicited mail (spam), click on the following link to reclassify it: http://127.0.0.1:6083/Panda?ID=pav_18492&SPAM=true --- YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] cleaning electronics
Hi Fred, > Fred Townsend <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I'd like to second Skipps comments and add one of my > own. At the factory we used ordinary dish washers (until > we got the commercial washers) to clean PC boards. Also guilty of doing said... although I don't use the dishwasher for electronics parts any more. > Spic and Span is a little harsh. For general cleaning, > including automatic dish washers, useArm and Hammer > baking soda. I use Palmolive Liquid Dish Soap in warm water for the more sensitive stuff. I've tried and used Spic and Span, TSP, Pine-Sol (or equiv) and 409 on the more mechanical items. It's hard to beat the grease cutting power of original powder Spic-and-Span. "Why that micor cabinet looks almost new... " For some sensitive electronics items (like variable caps), a tumble in crushed Walnut shells does the trick. Now the shells are replaced with plasitic cleaning media bought from local gun stores. > If you think someone has used an acid flux (sometimes > necessary to solder nickel or steel) clean with ammonia > before the baking soda. Finally if you have rosin flux > isopropyl alcohol works well. Don't use rubbing alcohol > (contains water) or use alcohol in the automatic dish > washer (it will burn). > Fred AE6QL Thanks Fred... for dry solder flux I've been using Acetone on a sturdy Q-Tip. All these hints are very handy to know. 73's skipp Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
