Re: SD> Warning buzzer???

2005-03-15 Thread TwoShelbys4Me
Does anybody know if you can unhook the warning buzzer. Mine keeps going
off randomly, geting kind annoying. The car is a 1992 Daytona. Any help
will be appreicated.
Thanks,
Shad Burkiett
Canton, IL

>>>

The door beeper can be disconnected.
Mine also went wacky. Something just shorts out internally.
I replaced it with a salvage part just because I'm a cheep s.o.b.


Rock & Roll with a Shelby or two.. or THREE)
Steve and Dee Kalmes
Springville, Iowa
89 CSX-VNT #467 (slot car)  
88 CSX-T  #475 (show car) 
87 CSX   #311  (go car) 
www.hometown.aol.com/sdkalmes/shelby475.html 
www.abcs.com/cooke/shelbyregistry/stevek.html 
www.440magnum-network.com/cgi-bin/search/jump.cgi?ID=954 
www.shelbycsx.com/gallery.shtml

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SD> 1992-95 2.5 TBI engine wanted

2005-03-15 Thread David Salamone
As some of you might remember back in June of 2004 my 1994 Voyager company
minivan broke down while enroute to SDAC-14. Unfortunately this forced me to
eliminate my appearance at the convention & the Carlisle show.

Upon a closer look the engine damage was much more serious than I expected. In
addition to blowing the 2 year old head gasket I discovered large chunks of a
broken rod and other internals sitting in my oil pan.

It took me by surprise since it was well maintained and has always had good
oil pressure. Since a decent remanufactured engine is out of my price range
for the time being I'd like to pick up and install a reliable used engine to
get me back up and running.

To be more specific I'm looking for a late model (1992-95 preferred) non-turbo
2.5 engine that's been well cared for (or recently had a good rebuild) and has
got plenty of life left within it. If somebody even has a uninstalled crate
motor sitting around that they wouldn't mind making a deal on I'd love to hear
from them.

Currently I'm working on finding one on a local level (including buying a
whole car for parts) but I just don't want to get screwed from buying a
"pre-pulled" motor that I have to spend all my time installing only to find
out it runs poorly. Having a so called warranty on it is worthless if I have
to uninstall it all over again.

There's alot of great people here on the mailing list that have helped me in
the past and someone out there may have just what I need. If my current
efforts including locating a running accident damaged (or rusted) car don't
come through I'm considering all options including having one shipped to me in
north Florida. I'm familiar with working with air freight companies and I can
get a decent deal.

If someone has something available, let me know. I'd like to get the company
minivan back on the road for daily use for a while before the rigors of long
distance driving to car shows. Thanks again.

David Salamone
Positive Impressions
PO Box 27073
Jacksonville, Florida 32205
904-388-4040 phone
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: SD> SDML Archives

2005-03-15 Thread SDML Administrator
At 08:24 PM 3/15/2005 -0500, you wrote:
Is there a problem with them.  I went to look at a recent post &  all I get
is the subject line, no body???
Yes, the imagicomm archives have been doing that for a while now. All 
attempts to contact them have gone unanswered.

We do have an alternate location although it doesn't currently contain the 
entire archive. Check out http://www.sdml.org/pages/archives.html for more 
information.

Cheers.
--
Bill Yohman - SDML Admin Team Member
ICQ #6810106
AIM: shelbyregistry
YAHOO!: shelbyregistry
http://www.SDML.org/  

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Re: : Re: SD> oops, Which is the recommended head gasket?

2005-03-15 Thread Moparmat2000
yes i do recall the EGR sens plug in the earlier 2.2 carbureted engines being 
there with vaccuum lines hooked up, however in this top threaded hole in the 
waterbox i install a threaded brass 3/8" to 1/4" female reducer, to a 1/4" 
male threaded drain petcock. this way i can fill the coolant, with this open to 
burp out the air from the head. no tools needed. spin it open , burp air, and 
spin it closed. works just as well as cracking open the coolant line to the 
turbo does, but no tools required.

i have tried the #40 drill hole in the T stat. i dont like it. the car doesnt 
seem to warm up as fast as without drilling it. just my opinion. 

mat

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SD> SHADOW SUNDANCE BODY PARTS WANTED

2005-03-15 Thread Chris9137
I'M LOOKING FOR BODY PARTS FROM A RED SHADOW GRILL, TURBO HOOD, AND REAR  
HATCH W/ SPOILER AND FOR THE INTERIOR  A SHELBY EMBLEM FOR THE DASH  AND  THE 
BOOST GAUGE AND IDIOT LIGHTS, I HAVE AN 91 SUNDANCE I'M LOOKING TO  UPGRADE 
 
IF ANYONE CAN HOOK ME UP I'M IN THE DETROIT AREA  EMAIL ME BACK
 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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SD> making a tbi 2.5 to a turbo 1 with auto trans

2005-03-15 Thread Chris9137
>is it possible to turn a sundance with a nonturbo 2.5 tbi   auto trans  into 
a 
>turbo 1 using the same trans and engine . what  all would i need for that? 
>would it be reliable? my engine only has 60k  on it. I'm really missing my 
>spirt r/t's and want another turbo  dodge  of some sort. even if i end up 
>swapping engines later for a  turbo 2 or 3 if i'm lucky enough to find a 
steal of a deal. i'm in the detroit  area and looking for whatever i would need 
to do  this
>
>chris

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SD> SDML Archives

2005-03-15 Thread AMOPARGIRL
Is there a problem with them.  I went to look at a recent post &  all I get 
is the subject line, no body???  
~~
Holly  from Harrisburg, PA
SDAC Member - _http://www.sdac.org_ (http://www.sdac.org/) 
DVSDAC Member - _http://www.dv-sdac.org_ (http://www.dv-sdac.org/) 
GLSDAC Member - _http://greatlakes.shelbydodge.org_ 
(http://greatlakes.shelbydodge.org/) 
'89 Daytona Shelby, Red w/Ts w/2.2 TII & A555
See it at:  _http://members.fortunecity.com/turbo2z/page1989y.htm_ 
(http://members.fortunecity.com/turbo2z/page1989y.htm) 
'88 Chrysler Lebaron Convertible, Red w/White top, slow  2.5/auto
Ms. DC says, "Dodge Girls have more  fun!"

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SD> pumpers

2005-03-15 Thread MAXwedge426bbl
the free rims are off the market, thank you

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SD> For Trade: 89 CSX for an R/T Car

2005-03-15 Thread Chris Holmes
Any one willing to trade my 1989 CSX for a daytona or spirit r/t?
My car can be found at http://www.showyourtd.com and info can be found 
at http://www.csx.showyourtd.com

Looking for a Daytona IROC R/T or a Spirit R/T. I was going to sell my 
csx, but I cant part with the TDs just yet, about the only way I would 
get rid of it would be to get another car that I like. I could even give 
you my 87 Shelby Lancer if My car is not enuff.

Thanks
Chris
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SD> pumper rims and tires

2005-03-15 Thread MAXwedge426bbl
Regarding the free pumper rims, they have Goodyear tires on them, at least  
one has a leak, but they all have good tread. I can have the tires removed for  
20 dollars.

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SD> free parts

2005-03-15 Thread MAXwedge426bbl
I have some parts that I need to get rid of. 16" pumper rims in o.k.  
condition, one missing a CS center cap. An a/c setup from the firewall forward  
that 
worked when I took it out. A 3" pipe exhaust to cat. A new tranny bracket.  A 
turbo 1 airbox. A used valvcover. Other various parts. All free if you want to 
 get them from me. I'm in Livonia NY 14487. First come first  serve.

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Re: SD> Mcloud revlok clutches?

2005-03-15 Thread MoparTurbo
Bill,
You need one for a small spline or a big spline? I think I have one
lying around here somewhere. I believe I got them from FWD in the ~$400
range. The Mcleod street clutch is about $100 less I believe and much.
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 11:03 AM
Subject: SD> Mcloud revlok clutches?


> Who has the best price?Where do you get them?
>
>
> Bill BakerRutland,Vermont
> President, NESDAC
http://groups.msn.com/BAKERSREGULATOR/shoebox.msnw?albumlist
> 90 Dodge Shadow VNT Comp.
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 88CSX-T #894
> 82 rampage in progress :)
> 2000 Dak,UDLOOZ hauler
>
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>
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RE: SD> One more Clutch Question and a Tranny Question

2005-03-15 Thread Mullikin, Stefan P
In 1991 the 523, 543 and 568 transaxles changed the splines (which is
the T3 clutch won't work on cars running older transaxles.  If you get a
90 or older transaxle you'll be fine.

The Centerforce clutches aren't worth the money, they are as good as the
parts store pieces.  Personally for a relatively stock car, the
Borg-Warner Brute Force clutch works great and its cheap (about $120 for
the kit with the TOB)

I've never been drag racing so I can't tell you how the transaxle holds
up, though I've read about more than a few people doing so and living to
tell about it.  Maybe they'll share their experiences with you?  LOL

Good luck,
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
Co-Founder
PNW-SDAC
http://www.pnw-sdac.org
1980 Fiat X-1/9
1984 Dodge Rampage 2.2
1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z
1987 Shelby CSX #106
1988 Shelby CSX-T #3


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Fisher
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 7:00 PM
To: Shelby Dodge
Subject: SD> One more Clutch Question and a Tranny Question

I was wondering about the Centerforce II clutch for an 85 Shelby
Charger.  Will this clutch also work with a 523 tranny?  I am working on
getting one of those to replace my 525, and was just curious if the same
clutch will work on both trannys.  Is a 523 a good tranny to use?  I
know its stronger than a 525 or 520, but just what experiences anyone
has had with one drag racing.

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RE: SD> Clutch Question

2005-03-15 Thread Mullikin, Stefan P
Yep, that will work.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Fisher
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 6:07 PM
To: Shelby Dodge
Subject: SD> Clutch Question

What do you guys think about this clutch setup?  Why wouldnt it work
with my 85 Shelby Charger?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=79611
11718&category=33730&sspagename=WDVW

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SD> Mcloud revlok clutches?

2005-03-15 Thread udloozcs
 Who has the best price?Where do you get them?
 
 
Bill BakerRutland,Vermont
President, NESDAC 
http://groups.msn.com/BAKERSREGULATOR/shoebox.msnw?albumlist 
90 Dodge Shadow VNT Comp.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
88CSX-T #894
82 rampage in progress :)
2000 Dak,UDLOOZ hauler

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RE: SD> Re: Daytona C/S

2005-03-15 Thread Jeff Mulz
The VIN for the one I had checked out saying it was a TI. It did not have 
the bulge hood, but it had a A523 tranny. It was a Vin A car I believe. 
That's what alldata looked for when you checked it out. Same as my Shelby 
was a Vin A. Because I think in 88 there was Vin A, and Vin E. I'm not sure 
if Vin E is correct but I believe so. If I can score a digital camera one of 
these day's I'll take a few pictures and post them to see if anyone can 
properly identify this engine. I wanna say its got a 782 head on it too, but 
I can't remember. Maybe this car was a late 88? maybe got the TII? I don't 
know.

Jeff
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com
Subject: SD> Re: Daytona C/S
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 04:16:27 GMT
All the 88 Daytona C/S cars were 2.2 T1s from the factory.  The T2 option 
didn't come about until 89 with the Competition Package (AGS), and then T2 
was ONE year only (89) as 90 AGS cars got the TIV VNT and 91s got the high 
torque 2.5 T1.  All the 88 cars were Performance Package (AGB) cars.  The 
88s were 2.2 T1s, either A520 or A413, and also the 88s didn't get a bulge 
hood, but they had crab wheels and teh rear spoiler.  The 89-91 AGB and AGS 
cars all got bulge hoods.  88 was also unique in that black cherry pearl 
coat was a color option for the C/S, the only year this color was 
available, I've seen one and it looked really nice.

Scott
86 GLHS #408
89 Daytona Shelby (Radiant Silver)
89 Daytona C/S competition package
92 Spirit R/T
01 Impala police interceptor
04 SRT-4 (Electric Blue)
Walkersville, MD
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Re: : Re: SD> oops, Which is the recommended head gasket?

2005-03-15 Thread MOPARTEK
Mat,
Not to correct you but the plug is there because back in the old days of 
carburetors there was coolant controlled switch screwed into the top and side 
port 
(where the water tube for the turbo goes) that worked the air pump and EGR 
valve on these cars.

One switch was open when cold allowing vacuum to the air pump and blowing air 
down stream into the cat to get it lit off and hot, then it switched upstream 
and put air into the exhaust manifold.

The other switch interrupted the vacuum supply to the EGR valve when cold so 
you wouldn't have a stumble when the valve opened with a cold motor.

When the turbo cars came out the side hole was used for the coolant return 
from the turbo and the top was plugged. Later castings removed the top plug all 
together although we still use the side port for turbo cars.

As for bleeding, I found the best way was to use two wrenches and crack the 
upper coolant line for the turbo while the motor is running, the water pump 
pressure will force the air from the system here and you can do this while the 
car is warming up to be sure all the air is purged from the system. 

Another way to relieve the trapped air, use a 3/32 drill bit and drill a 
small hole at the top of the thermostat, this will allow trapped air to be 
released into the upper hose and back to the radiator. The hole is small enough 
to 
not effect the drivability of the car and most cars today have had so many 
changes over the years that it really won't matter.

Cliff Ramsdell
VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com
'86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing"
'29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html

In a message dated 3/15/2005 9:04:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> dont forget to have him burp the air from the engine when refilling it with 
> 
> coolant to get the air out of the cylinder head. there is an allen key plug 
> in 
> the top of the water box on the head by the thermostat housing. this is for 
> this purpose. you pour coolant in till it reaches this hole, thread the plug 
> in, 
> then fill it the rest of the way up. this will lessen or eliminate the air 
> pocket in the head caused when having to refill the coolant in the engine. 
> 
> if the plug is frozen in there, and it may be from all these years, just 
> unthread the fan temp switch on the side of the waterbox on the head, and 
> use that 
> to bleed the air out. trapped air pockets in the cylinder heads will cause 
> hot spots and the head will crack.
> 
> hope this helps
> mat 

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SD> Empty trailer Hartford, CT to Minneapolis/St Paul, MN area

2005-03-15 Thread MOPARTEK
Hi all,
I'm off on the road for another adventure. Going from home to Blackduck, MN, 
then south to Corning, IA and the back home to CT. 

I'm going to pick up some car parts and a car and will be running with an 
empty trailer from the Hartford/Springfield area here out to north of 
Minneapolis/St Paul, MN.

If someone has a car the need hauled along the way I can do it for a 
reasonable fee. Motors, transmissions or other large items usably to costly to 
ship 
can also be moved too if the hookup time works with my travel schedule.

We will be running 84 out of Hartford to Scranton, PA, picking up 81 south to 
hook up with 80 west. We'll take 80 all the way to IL and pickup 39 north. 
Take 39 north to MW and then pick up 90/94 and follow 94 into Minneapolis/St 
Paul.

Since there are two of us we will run day and night as needed or necessary.

Leaving Sunday Morning and plan on being back Thursday. Drop me an email if I 
can help you out.

Thanks,
Cliff Ramsdell
VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com
'86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing"
'29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html

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: Re: SD> oops, Which is the recommended head gasket?

2005-03-15 Thread Moparmat2000
dont forget to have him burp the air from the engine when refilling it with 
coolant to get the air out of the cylinder head. there is an allen key plug in 
the top of the water box on the head by the thermostat housing. this is for 
this purpose. you pour coolant in till it reaches this hole, thread the plug 
in, 
then fill it the rest of the way up. this will lessen or eliminate the air 
pocket in the head caused when having to refill the coolant in the engine. 

if the plug is frozen in there, and it may be from all these years, just 
unthread the fan temp switch on the side of the waterbox on the head, and use 
that 
to bleed the air out. trapped air pockets in the cylinder heads will cause 
hot spots and the head will crack.

hope this helps
mat 

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SD> Warning buzzer???

2005-03-15 Thread shadb
Does anybody know if you can unhook the warning buzzer. Mine keeps going
off randomly, geting kind annoying. The car is a 1992 Daytona. Any help
will be appreicated.

Thanks,

Shad Burkiett
Canton, IL

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